[ROVERNET - UK] P6 rear screen seal replacement

[Eric Russell]

Yes, the real seal corners are a problem.  I use a
black sealer and then lots of masking tape to hold the
rubber in place for 24 hours.  That seems to work for
me.

Eric

--- peter king <peter at king-co.com> wrote:

> Hi Jan, etc.
> 
> The no-sealant approach was the winner! I lubricated
> the seal and the  
> seal and screen slid in (relatively) easily. I used
> hand pressure to  
> work the screen and seal upward, then worked the
> jacks up in small  
> steps to take up the slack, rather than to press the
> seal upwards, as  
> I could not tell how much pressure the jacks were
> exerting on the  
> screen.
> 
> Will let you know how it handles the first water
> test. The corners of  
> the new seal are less form fitting than the
> original, and a small gap  
> opens up against the glass on one corner. I'm going
> to try to work  
> the back of the seal to minimize it, but may have to
> add sealant to  
> keep it tight.
> 
> Thanks for all the advice,
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> On May 14, 2008, at 8:47 AM, <jan.tillberg at sqc.se>  
> <jan.tillberg at sqc.se> wrote:
> 
> > Hi all out there! I wrote a couple of words, but
> it doesn't seem to  
> > have been sent away, so I try again.
> >
> > I use white spirit to clean and soften the rubber
> seal and make it  
> > flexible enough to slide in the channel/let the
> screen in. It's  
> > important to notice whether it is a laminated or
> hardened screen-  
> > they have different thicknesses and probably
> different rubber  
> > sealings. I use grease or oil to make the parts
> slide in properly.  
> > I don't use any sealant compound. It's hard to
> adjust the jacking  
> > points and the trim to raise the screen, the bolts
> for the jacking  
> > points are prone to lift and thus separating the
> screen from the  
> > lower inner sealing. The retainer in the lower
> middle I think  
> > shouldn't be used to force the screen towards the
> lower inner  
> > sealing, because that would induce tensions in the
> screen. The  
> > screen should ideally "fall in" to it's position.
> That's why I use  
> > lubricants to reduce any forces while assembling.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Jan
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dirk Burrowes [mailto:dirk at vy-tek.com]
> > Sent: den 14 maj 2008 13:59
> > To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Rovernet Digest, Vol
> 69, Issue 10
> >
> >
> > Hi Peter,
> >
> > If you really want a task try installing a P5
> windshield and have  
> > it seal
> > and have the chrome trim fit and don't break
> window.
> >
> > The rear seal on the P6 I have found to be fairly
> easy to put in. I  
> > don't
> > use any sealer but you can put a small amount
> around the edge of  
> > the window
> > it self or at the bottom of the seal on the
> inside. I have always  
> > removed
> > the rear deck when putting in or removing the
> window I know some  
> > have tried
> > to install or remove without removing it I just
> don't know how. I  
> > have found
> > that when the jacking points are lowered all the
> way down you can  
> > slowly
> > raise these while keeping the seal in the frame.
> If the seal starts  
> > to push
> > out you can use you palm to gently push or bump it
> in. You may as  
> > you get
> > closer to the top need to lift the outer seal edge
> up with a thin  
> > shim to
> > allow it to seat around the top and sides.
> >
> > I find the difficult part to align the rear deck
> seal to the  
> > curvature of
> > the window. The ends of the seal are hard to match
> to the window  
> > corners. I
> > have found the after market seals for this panel
> to not be very  
> > good. In the
> > end I refurbished a used one in good order.
> >
> > Hope this works out I am looking forward to se
> your handy work at  
> > the end of
> > this month at ROVEAMERICA 08
> >
> > Dirk
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com
> > [mailto:rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 7:00 AM
> > To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 69, Issue 10
> >
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> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >    1.  P6 rear screen seal replacement (peter
> king)
> >    2.  R:  P6 rear screen seal replacement
> (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
> >    3. Re:  R:  P6 rear screen seal replacement
> (jan.tillberg at sqc.se)
> >    4. Re:  P6 rear screen seal replacement
> (Netspace)
> >
> >
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:31:45 -0400
> > From: peter king <peter at king-co.com>
> > Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 rear screen seal
> replacement
> > To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > Message-ID:
> <6C62F120-46EB-43CB-9798-68660CB159F8 at king-co.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII;
> delsp=yes; format=flowed
> >
> > Hi all.
> >
> > Can anyone shed some light on the best procedure
> to install a new rear
> > screen seal? I made a complete mess out of the job
> tonight, as the  
> > seal
> > would not slide into the channel once the
> windshield was bedded in  
> > adhesive
> > in it. I tried working the seal into the channel
> away from the  
> > glass, but
> > that didn't work either. Then of course the
> adhesive started to set  
> > and that
> 
=== message truncated ===


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