[ROVERNET - UK] P6 rear screen seal replacement

peter king peter at king-co.com
Mon May 19 22:50:17 BST 2008


Good idea, Eric. I'll give it a try.

By the way, that posting from me took 4 days to get through to the  
Rnet. Just showed up in my email today.

Thanks,

pk


On May 19, 2008, at 5:39 PM, Eric Russell wrote:

> Yes, the real seal corners are a problem.  I use a
> black sealer and then lots of masking tape to hold the
> rubber in place for 24 hours.  That seems to work for
> me.
>
> Eric
>
> --- peter king <peter at king-co.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Jan, etc.
>>
>> The no-sealant approach was the winner! I lubricated
>> the seal and the
>> seal and screen slid in (relatively) easily. I used
>> hand pressure to
>> work the screen and seal upward, then worked the
>> jacks up in small
>> steps to take up the slack, rather than to press the
>> seal upwards, as
>> I could not tell how much pressure the jacks were
>> exerting on the
>> screen.
>>
>> Will let you know how it handles the first water
>> test. The corners of
>> the new seal are less form fitting than the
>> original, and a small gap
>> opens up against the glass on one corner. I'm going
>> to try to work
>> the back of the seal to minimize it, but may have to
>> add sealant to
>> keep it tight.
>>
>> Thanks for all the advice,
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>> On May 14, 2008, at 8:47 AM, <jan.tillberg at sqc.se>
>> <jan.tillberg at sqc.se> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all out there! I wrote a couple of words, but
>> it doesn't seem to
>>> have been sent away, so I try again.
>>>
>>> I use white spirit to clean and soften the rubber
>> seal and make it
>>> flexible enough to slide in the channel/let the
>> screen in. It's
>>> important to notice whether it is a laminated or
>> hardened screen-
>>> they have different thicknesses and probably
>> different rubber
>>> sealings. I use grease or oil to make the parts
>> slide in properly.
>>> I don't use any sealant compound. It's hard to
>> adjust the jacking
>>> points and the trim to raise the screen, the bolts
>> for the jacking
>>> points are prone to lift and thus separating the
>> screen from the
>>> lower inner sealing. The retainer in the lower
>> middle I think
>>> shouldn't be used to force the screen towards the
>> lower inner
>>> sealing, because that would induce tensions in the
>> screen. The
>>> screen should ideally "fall in" to it's position.
>> That's why I use
>>> lubricants to reduce any forces while assembling.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Jan
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Dirk Burrowes [mailto:dirk at vy-tek.com]
>>> Sent: den 14 maj 2008 13:59
>>> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Rovernet Digest, Vol
>> 69, Issue 10
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Peter,
>>>
>>> If you really want a task try installing a P5
>> windshield and have
>>> it seal
>>> and have the chrome trim fit and don't break
>> window.
>>>
>>> The rear seal on the P6 I have found to be fairly
>> easy to put in. I
>>> don't
>>> use any sealer but you can put a small amount
>> around the edge of
>>> the window
>>> it self or at the bottom of the seal on the
>> inside. I have always
>>> removed
>>> the rear deck when putting in or removing the
>> window I know some
>>> have tried
>>> to install or remove without removing it I just
>> don't know how. I
>>> have found
>>> that when the jacking points are lowered all the
>> way down you can
>>> slowly
>>> raise these while keeping the seal in the frame.
>> If the seal starts
>>> to push
>>> out you can use you palm to gently push or bump it
>> in. You may as
>>> you get
>>> closer to the top need to lift the outer seal edge
>> up with a thin
>>> shim to
>>> allow it to seat around the top and sides.
>>>
>>> I find the difficult part to align the rear deck
>> seal to the
>>> curvature of
>>> the window. The ends of the seal are hard to match
>> to the window
>>> corners. I
>>> have found the after market seals for this panel
>> to not be very
>>> good. In the
>>> end I refurbished a used one in good order.
>>>
>>> Hope this works out I am looking forward to se
>> your handy work at
>>> the end of
>>> this month at ROVEAMERICA 08
>>>
>>> Dirk
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com
>>> [mailto:rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com]
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 7:00 AM
>>> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 69, Issue 10
>>>
>>> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
>>> 	rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
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>>>
>>> Today's Topics:
>>>
>>>    1.  P6 rear screen seal replacement (peter
>> king)
>>>    2.  R:  P6 rear screen seal replacement
>> (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.it)
>>>    3. Re:  R:  P6 rear screen seal replacement
>> (jan.tillberg at sqc.se)
>>>    4. Re:  P6 rear screen seal replacement
>> (Netspace)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:31:45 -0400
>>> From: peter king <peter at king-co.com>
>>> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6 rear screen seal
>> replacement
>>> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>> Message-ID:
>> <6C62F120-46EB-43CB-9798-68660CB159F8 at king-co.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII;
>> delsp=yes; format=flowed
>>>
>>> Hi all.
>>>
>>> Can anyone shed some light on the best procedure
>> to install a new rear
>>> screen seal? I made a complete mess out of the job
>> tonight, as the
>>> seal
>>> would not slide into the channel once the
>> windshield was bedded in
>>> adhesive
>>> in it. I tried working the seal into the channel
>> away from the
>>> glass, but
>>> that didn't work either. Then of course the
>> adhesive started to set
>>> and that
>>
> === message truncated ===
>
>
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