[ROVERNET - UK] Electrical mystery on P6
Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au
Fri May 6 01:51:20 BST 2005
Yeah, that means putting it in series with the car supply that comes off the
starter solenoid behind the left headlights.
Plan to try that tomorrow, and load it up with high beam to see the effect.
I just about have memorised the RHD-neg-earth-with-inertia-starter wiring
From: Dave Read [mailto:defender110 at ozemail.com.au]
Sent: Friday, 6 May 2005 10:43 am
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Electrical mystery on P6
Put the DMM on amps (or ammeter) in series with the battery (*excluding*
starter current) whilst running to see what current goes *into* the
battery on "charge".
Paul Smith wrote:
> Ok, I'll stir it up with my current curly problem:
> During Christmas visit to praents I racked up 3000 miles on SC.
> Most of the car ran perfectly.
> However the generator cjopped out the rear bush, and the armature metal
> away a bit.
> Fixed the bush, but the increased air gap meant the gennie now
> Time for an alternator, a la the one on the TC (which was a Holden one I
> fitted in 1985).
> I put alternator on, all looked ok. Voltage on the battery posts looks
> around 13.6 at 1500rpm or so.
> The alternator output does go through the regulator box, but not the IGN
> light. IGN light behaves perfectly.
> the battery went flat; hmmm.
> Tried the battery out of the 2500, same response.
> Consistently, if I leave the car for 3 days, the battery is dead flat.
> However if I take the battery out and leave it to sit, the voltage
> a lot.
> I put an DMM in series with the battery earth lead to see if there was a
> steady discharge.
> 0 amps; clock cuts in every 2.5 minutes and blips the current. Open the
> door, get .4 amp discharge. It looks perfect.
> So I bought a new battery. Same response.
> So I swapped in the alternator off the TC, in case the one I put on has a
> dead diode or something.
> Same response.
> Now what??
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