[ROVERNET - UK] Fuse problem
Fletcher
gofanu at usachoice.net
Mon May 7 16:26:46 BST 2007
You are looking at circuits fed by Green wires = IGN switched and
fused. Find any branch points of that circuit (starting at the fuse box)
and disconnect all but one of the wires; see what works and what
doesn't. Then switch which wire is connected until you know which branch
blows the fuse. Then follow harness to another node and do the same.
There are only a few such nodes - at fuse box, at junction of rear
harness to main, a couple under dash. There are NO connections hidden in
the harness.
Common source of this circuit failing is a bad park mechanism in the
wiper motor - always hot woth key ON; and the instrument voltage
stabiliser under the dash.
Cars with rust repair to the RH undersill frequently have POP rivets or
sheetmetal screws that have worn through the harness and shorted various
combinations of wires to the rear lamps - will drive you nuts as it
changes all the time!
NEVER go near a live circuit with an ohmmeter. Ammeters are OK but you
have to hook them up in series, useless for first order diagnostics. Use
a voltmeter and measure from hot to a fixed ground to find voltage drops
that will tell you if there's power, if there are bad connections, if
something is pulling more power than it should. Voltage on the hot side
of a device should be within 0.5v or less of the across battery system
voltage. Less indicates serious trouble.
FRM
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