[ROVERNET - UK] RE: rovernet Digest, Vol 48, Issue 40

Dirk Burrowes dirk at vy-tek.com
Thu Nov 30 14:15:50 GMT 2006


Hi Kurt,

The towing companies you are speaking with are full of it. There is such
thing as a road dolly used for cars that cannot not be towed as a result of
a accident. However I would go and rent either a 2 wheel tow dolly form
U-Haul OR rent their car trailer and do it your self and just pull it with a
car or truck with a trailer hitch. If you don't have a car with a hitch then
you can rent the truck from U-Haul with the hitch and trailer.  As a last
resort a flat bed slider would work as well and if you absolutely have to
then put in the front suspension without the springs and block up the wheels
so it will roll.

By the way where are you????

My 2 cents

Dirk 

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[ROVERNET-UK]

Today's Topics:

   1.  RE: rovernet Digest, Vol 48, Issue 39 (James Radcliffe)
   2. Re:  Moving/Towing a P6 Without Road Springs!? (Alan Gale)
   3. Re:  Rover P6B - compression test query (roland)
   4.  Moving/Towing a P6 Without Road Springs!? (Andrew Moss)
   5. Re:  Rover P6B - compression test query (John Burkhard)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 08:33:36 +1030
From: "James Radcliffe" <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] RE: rovernet Digest, Vol 48, Issue 39
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <BAY110-F14083246E201B95B0F741F8EE40 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed



>Message: 5
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 08:42:19 -0800 (PST)
>From: Kurt Graffy <kgraffy at yahoo.com>
>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Moving/Towing a P6 Without Road Springs!?
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Message-ID: <981059.86277.qm at web50313.mail.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
>This topic is the bane of my existence!...namely the front road 
>springs.  I have them out of the car and have not been able (with 
>external spring compressors) to get them back in the car.  Paul Smith 
>was kind enough to send me photos of how he's done it, but I obviously 
>missed something as it didn't work for me (so far)...apparently the 
>important thing is that the spring compressor bolts must be 250mm or 
>less...on the compressor I rented the bolts are 287mm.
>
>So I bought some Grade 8 hardened washers...am using them to "shorten" 
>the bolts...we'll find out today if that will do the trick...but if 
>not....
>
>Here's the crunch...I'm being evicted from my home of the last 28 years 
>(building sold, new owner wants to move into my unit) and I have to 
>have the premises vacated by Friday...but in the garage is a P6 without 
>any front suspension or front wheels....it also has no engine...as 
>that's on the rebuild stand, but that's probably not a huge 
>issue...that can be moved.
>
>So without the front suspension together, I've got two rear wheels on 
>the ground, and two jack stands under the steel bars in the front 
>jacking points...which presumably somehow some towing company will use 
>to attach a towing dolly to the car to move it out of the garage and to 
>the new garage...except every towing firm I called said, one way or 
>another..."No way...not without having wheels on it."
>
>So...I was wondering how it would be to put the suspension bits back on 
>...sans road spring...simply in order to be able to roll the car out of 
>the garage and onto the tow truck (presumably a flat bed in this
>case) and off the tow truck and into the new garage...especially as 
>there's no engine/clutch/transmission weight on the front of the car.
>
>Am I crazy?...I'm certainly desperate!
>
>Kurt
>
>
I have seen a car with a front wheel missing, fell off I think, up on a tilt
tray, with a trolley jack supporting where the front wheel was. I would have
thought you could jack up under the crossmember, push it out of the garage,
and then have it pulled up onto a tilt tray tow truck. Should not be too
hard with no engine and transmission.

When my Rover was bogged in the back yard earlier this year I put some wood
under the rear jacking point, then jacked it with a trolley jack, and then
pulled it with a strap, to pull the car over. I did this an number of times,
and got it out of where I was stuck.


James.

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 09:03:58 +0800
From: Alan Gale <agale at iinet.net.au>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Moving/Towing a P6 Without Road Springs!?
To: kgraffy at mindspring.com, rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <1164848638.456e2dfe49d21 at mail.iinet.net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Firstly, Kurt, where are you?
The easiest way to get the springs back on once they have been allowed to
expand fully and need to be re-compressed is with the mudguards off the car.

They bolt on and off so this is relatively easy and the time saving is worth
the effort.
However by the time you read this the new owner will be standing outside the
garage, I think.
The problem with moving it without the springs is that the wheels would not
be kept in place and most likely would not be free of the surrounds.
Others may have better information - this is the best I can do.

Alan Gale



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 17:45:04 -0800 (PST)
From: roland <veetwinrider at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Rover P6B - compression test query
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <142886.18400.qm at web55108.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1


--- Peter Mitchell <peter_m at amnet.net.au> wrote:

> Hi Netters,
> 
> Thus the lowest cylinders were no 8 at 100 psi and no 6 at 110 psi.
> 
> May I ask those more experienced than I, am I safe to expect a few 
> more years of modest weekend use, or do I need to start saving for a 
> rebuild?
> 
> Opinions would be most welcomed.
Peter, it's right at the max tolerance of acceptance.
Lowest and highest being 25lbs max difference. It would produce a bit of a
lumpy idle, but if yours is more of a surging, I'd have the carbs checked.
Maybe throttle bushings? What is the vacumn gauge readings?
I'd also check the distributor for shaft play. Good luck and let us know
what they find.

      roland
DL650
  Rover P5







------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 21:49:15 -0500
From: "Andrew Moss" <amoss at xplornet.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Moving/Towing a P6 Without Road Springs!?
To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <006f01c7142a$26935440$c3d9010a at KITCHEN>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"

Hi there,

I would suggest you phone a company with a flat bed truck. The flat bed
turns into a ramp and can be lowered under the frame of the car. A cable
will then be attached to the front of the car and it will be pulled up onto
the bed. The bed is made of thick smooth metal, so it is not a problem for
the frame or the bed while it is dragged. At the destination, the car is
rolled back off the bed on to the road and you will have to jack the front
up again to put it on jack stands.

This is what they do for cars that are in bad accidents where the are
missing the front suspension.  

Hope it helps,

Andrew
Ottawa, Canada





------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 01:15:17 -0800
From: "John Burkhard" <burkhaj at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Rover P6B - compression test query
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000801c71460$151ff3e0$0a0110ac at john>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Hi Peter,

I think we need to get back to the basics.  First lets look at what we know
or do not know.  What sort of shape were to old spark plugs in?  Gasoline or
oil fouled or lean burned?  Was the gap too wide?  Was the compression test
done wet or dry?  Did John put a vacuum gauge on the engine and check
manifold pressure?  This tool can tell you a hole lot such as carburetor,
USA spelling, problems, sticking valves and so on.

Next check for manifold leaks.  Use a can of aerosol carburetor cleaner and
spray it around the throttle shafts, gaskets and along and at the ends of
all the vacuum lines.  If the engine speed increases you have found a leak. 
If no faults were found up to this point I would think it's time to check
out the carburetors as the other Rover owners have recommended.

Now about the compression test, why did you have it done.  Is this engine
using more than one quart of lube oil every 600 to 800 miles or did the
spark plug look oil fouled?  As general rule the difference between
cylinders should be no more than about 14 psi or not less than 80% between
the highest and lowest.  Just a few pointers about getting good information.
The engine should be fully warmed up, first test done dry, each cylinder
done three times and with the throttle wide open.  Recheck the low cylinders
a second round wet.  That is to say a small amount of oil down the spark
plug hole.  If the pressure comes up it's ring time.  If no or very little
change it's valve grind time.  Be sure to check the crankcase pressure and
if John has the tools do a leak down test.  For this 
test the engine should be cool and will take a few hours to do.   Please do 
remember the old adage about the weakest. link.

Well I hope this is of some help and to you and yours a happy holiday
season.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Mitchell" <peter_m at amnet.net.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 1:41 AM
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Rover P6B - compression test query


> Hi Netters,
>
> I dropped my P6B off to mechanic near my work today so he could have a 
> good
> look at some serious problems that I have been having with an 
> inconsistent
> idle and difficult starting.
>
> I asked John, the mechanic, to do a compression test to establish whether 
> I
> was facing major problems with a completely worn out engine and high
> crankcase pressure. At the same time he fitted new plugs and set the 
> timing.
> This sorted the starting problem instantly, but the engine will not idle 
> at
> a consistent number of revs - I have had to resort to left foot braking 
> so
> that I can keep some throttle on when waiting at traffic lights.
>
> Since the new plugs were installed and the timing adjusted, the car is 
> more
> lively under power, and tomorrow we are going to check the carburettor 
> float
> level (the carbs have just been overhauled), John feels that the most 
> likely
> source of the idling problem will be traced back to the float level.  I 
> am
> also going to put in a better oil than I am using at present, and will go
> for a Penrite brand suitable for older engines.
>
> Have members experienced these problems with the float level being too 
> high?
> My brother is a mechanic (originally a Land Rover apprentice with Faulls 
> in
> Perth) and agrees with my mechanic's viewpoint.
>
> For your information the compression test results were:
>
> Cyl psi
> 2 125
> 4 125
> 6 110
> 8 100
>
> 1 125
> 3 125
> 5 115
> 7 115
>
> Thus the lowest cylinders were no 8 at 100 psi and no 6 at 110 psi.
>
> May I ask those more experienced than I, am I safe to expect a few more
> years of modest weekend use, or do I need to start saving for a rebuild?
>
> Opinions would be most welcomed.
>
>
>
>
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