[ROVERNET - UK] Clutch Slave cylinder stuff

[Vern Klukas]

>First off,
>
>Happy New Year to everyone!
>
>Secondly: help!
>
>I have a ''68 2000 TC and I'm having trouble changing gear. What's 
>happening is the clutch isn't fully disengaged at the end of the 
>pedal travel. The previous owner had had a garage rebuild the 
>hydrolics on both the clutch and brakes(I'll ask about that in the 
>future.:-).) and I'm fortunenate enough to have the invioce for the 
>work carried out with the slave cylinder used for replacement.
>
>So I think there are three points I'm dealing with.
>
>1] The cylinder they used is for a MG midget 7/8" which I have to 
>admit looks pretty similar, is this usable?

That is the correct bore size, I believe.

>
>2] The external release lever is at about 10-12 degrees off the 
>vertical instead of the 5 degrees spec'ed in the manual. My guess is 
>because the pushrod to the cylinder piston is at the maximum 
>adjustment on the threaded end by the yoke. Will this stop full 
>travel of the release lever?

I would readjust to specification.

>
>3] Assuming that the Midget cylinder should work fine, have I missed 
>something with bleeding the system?

I have always found that to bleed the clutch effectively, you have to 
unfasten the slave cylinder from the bellhousing so that the bleed 
screw can point upward, otherwise you trap a bubble of air.

The other area to check and adjust is the pedal adjustment inside the 
car. It is quite possible the operating rod is threaded too far into 
the pedal trunnion, which will in turn mean you can't get enough 
stroke at the master cylinder.


Yours
Vern

>
>Hope someone can help me with this.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Steven Dibdin.
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-- 
Vern Klukas                             I'm a little . . .
Inkspot Type & Design
vern at inkspotco.com