[ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 P6

Glen Wilson 2 glenwilson2 at cavtel.net
Fri Feb 10 05:05:38 GMT 2006


Rover never exported the 2200 to the States, but there are a few here.

There's a Series 2 in PA that came here from the south of France via
England. It's a 2200 with (I think) HIF carbs. It seemed to run better
than any 2000TC that I've ever seen. It is in beautiful shape, and I
think the owner has since installed one of those Kiwi conversion kits to
fit it with a 5-speed Toyota box. Nice car.

The only other Series 2 car that I've come across was a 2000TC with the
later bonnet and the round gauge package. That one had markings under
the bonnet insulation that indicated that the car had been intended for
export to Austria, but it ended up in southern New York. 

Hank Manwell also has a Series 2 TC that is a running restoration
project.

Glen

On Wed, 2006-02-08 at 23:30 -0500, Dirk Burrowes wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> 
> My Series 2 P6 is a 1970 TC 2000 made in the 11th month so it may be a 71 by
> car standards It is funny I also have a 1970 made the same month that is a
> series 1. When I got back in to Rovering I was not aware that the series 2
> did not make it to the US in very many numbers. So I started looking for
> that model with no luck. I ended up settled for a 68 in outstanding original
> condition and restored it. 
> 
> I am even more surprised to hear that a 2200 made it in to the US. That is a
> neat thing! And even better that it is a 1974. What condition is it in?
> Where are you? 
> 
> Thanks for the advice on the transmission oil we will change it this weekend
> 
> Dirk
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of
> rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 7:07 PM
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Subject: rovernet Digest, Vol 39, Issue 16
> 
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> 
> [ROVERNET-UK]
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. RE:  De-coking a rover V8 (Damien)
>    2.  Series 2 SD1's (Andrew Moss)
>    3. Re:  Transmission oils (Kent Kinard)
>    4. Re:  Series 2 SD1's (Kent Kinard)
>    5.  Here was some rust... (Glen Wilson)
>    6.  SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels (sspmilr at netzero.net)
>    7.  BW 35 / BW 65 (Tom Total)
>    8.  Acid dipped (Tom Total)
>    9. Re:  SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels (Magnet)
>   10. Re:  Acid dipped (Vern Klukas)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 22:29:30 +1000
> From: "Damien" <koffee at iprimus.com.au>
> Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] De-coking a rover V8
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Message-ID: <000001c62cab$4f43f000$6401a8c0 at koffee>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> OK now this might seem a bit rough (lol) but I the past to decoke the top of
> the pistons I have just used a electric drill (variable speed) and a softish
> wire brush attachment for the drill and a old vacuum cleaner. Turn over the
> piston until level with the top of the block plug any oil galleries etc with
> paper towel. Now if you have someone helping get them to hold the vacuum
> cleaner nozzle close to the piston and slowly hit the carbon with the wire
> brush (obviously wear safety glasses). When finished the piston top vacuum
> out around the bore wall and slowly move the piston down and wipe the bore
> down with more paper towel. Can be all done in about and hour if in a hurry
> or as long as it takes. 
> Like I said sounds cruel but I have done it this way on many cars with no
> adverse effects that I can notice. You can also clean the carbon on the bore
> lip as well.
> The only thing is not to use a too course a brush.
> When you have finished you can almost see your refection in the piston
> crown.
> Same can be used on the heads to clean up the valves etc
> 
> I can almost hear the screams of horror world wide but it works and if you
> are careful it doesn't do any harm. I have run cars for over 50,000 miles
> after doing this and nothing has happened (well if you don't count the
> pistons dropping out through the sump as anything lol kidding)
> 
> Damien 
> 
> Brisbane
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of
> Gavin.Walker at csiro.au
> Sent: Wednesday, 8 February 2006 8:45 AM
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] De-coking a rover V8
> 
> Hi Kent,
>   I took a look through woolies yesterday and could not find "easy off
> blue".  Oven cleaners were pretty much all in pressure packs.  Most
> contained significant amounts of NaOH.  One claimed to be "non-caustic",
> however the back warned of strong alkaline salts.  Since when are strong
> alkaline salts "non-caustic"?  Other cleaners for stovetops were citrus
> based but warned against used with aluminium.  In the "easy off" line
> woolies stocked "bam" and "degreaser", the later cautioning used with
> aluminium.  Got me confused, so I haven't bought/tried anything yet.
> 
> The V8 upper cylinder kit I bought comes with silvered tin head gaskets.
> Why should I remove the silver coating?  It also came with gaskets for
> both SU and Stromberg carburettors.  Having played with both I'm
> struggling to see where I use some of it.  The kit contains little round
> rubber washers, o-rings, copper compression rings.  No idea where the
> latter would go.  Didn't come with any exhaust manifold gaskets, though
> I kept asking the shop about those, will have to get them separately.
> 
> Lastly I finally got the EGR valve out.  It wasn't connected and just
> got in the way.  Now have a suitable replacement bolt.
> 
> 
> Gavin Walker
> Canberra, Australia
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:47:07 -0500
> From: "Andrew Moss" <amoss at xplornet.com>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Message-ID: <003001c62cbe$8d1c0530$c3d9010a at KITCHEN>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hi Dermot,
> 
> There are a few "SE"s here in Canada. They are a strange mix of series 1
> and 2 (as it is know in Europe and Australia). It has the same body and
> bumpers as the series 1. The interior is slightly revised with extra
> headrests and slightly different seats. The dashboard is the same as the
> series 1.
> 
> The SE's in Europe and Australia had a different back hatch, completely
> different interior and different wheels.
> 
> I know of a project "SE" here is Ottawa if you are keen. I'm not sure if
> it is for sale, but it has been off the road for a long time. 
> 
> I have a series 2 Vanden Plas that I imported from Austraila. Not for
> sale right now though. 
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Andrew Moss
> Ottawa, Canada
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 15:42:11 -0500
> From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's For Sale?
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <0558d4ccc48545c27524163e575b4fac at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> 
> Anyone out there know of a Series 2 SD1 for sale? I know a few 1982's 
> were imported into Canada  - i haven't heard of any in the US. There is 
> one for sale in the Toronto Area Rover Club website, but the owner Bill 
> Osmond has changed his e-mail address. I heard from a Canadian friend 
> of a Series 2 2000 in Montreal some years ago.It was brought in to be 
> in a movie, but then I heard that they had to export again as it was 
> non conforming.
> 
> Dermot Harvey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 11:47:09 -0600
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at swbell.net>
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Transmission oils
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <43EA2E9D.1030004 at swbell.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> 
> 
> 
> Dirk Burrowes wrote:
> 
> > Now to the question, we want to change the transmission fluid and there
> has
> > been a lot of discussion on the net as to what the best fluid to use, but
> > for the life of me I can't find those posts. So suggestions would be
> > appreciated along with any first car stories or advice for my son. 
> 
> Hi Dirk,
> Use Type F automatic transmission fluid.  You can still get it at most 
> auto supply stores.  I bought a couple of cases a few years ago and 
> haven't used much yet.  I need it for both the P6B and the P5B Coupe.
> 
> Type F is a little thinner and less slippery than Type A (Dextron).  You 
> can use Type F in Type A transmissions and they shift a little harder, 
> but you can't use Type A in a Type F trans or it will slip too much and 
> overheat.
> 
> I too have a Series 2 P6 ('74 2200TC) in need of restoration.  Is yours 
> a 2000 or a 2200?  The '71 NAS 2000TC (Series 2)is the rarest production 
> P6.  Only 222 were built and all went to North Amaerica as far as I can 
> tell. The 2200's are far less common in North America, but quite common 
> in the rest of the world, though LHD examples must be few and far between.
> 
> Roverly,
> Kent k.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 12:18:20 -0600
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at swbell.net>
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <43EA35EC.40907 at swbell.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> 
> Hi Dermot and Andrew,
> The Canadian SE's you refer to are probably '81's and are indeed 
> something of a transition model.  Although the NAS '81's used the "10 
> m.p.h." bumpers, I don't know which headlamps they used.  Technically, I 
> think they are actually Series 1's because of the hatch and dash and 
> because it is generally agreed that Series 2 production didn't start 
> until January of '82.
> 
> I got a set of the seats, door pannels and dash (with electric mirror 
> control) from Ted Schumacker several years ago.  The car they came from 
> was part of the BL test fleet in the US and Ted was restricted by 
> contract from putting any of them back on the road, so they were parted 
> out.  The dash went to Mexico, but the seats and door pannels will go in 
> my next SD1 that gets painted...much nicer than the usual Series 1 seats 
> and a slightly different design.  I negotiated several years ago for a 
> 1981 VDP in the UK...black leather...but was unable to arrange shipping 
> at the time.  These are the seats to look for for any Series 1.
> 
> ...and here's a tasty tidbit...sort of like legendary lost gold mines in 
> the old west.  When BL abandoned the the (second) Lynx project (TR8 four 
> seat fastback with SD1 type rear suspension) they may have left one in 
> the US.  The particular car was in Texas at one time for hot weather 
> tests, probably by Southwest Research in San Antonio at their Uvalde, 
> TX, test track.  Notes indicate a Lynx that was "tested to destruction" 
> for durability test purposes.  I spent several years making inquiries 
> around  Uvalde and Southwest Research trying to find details, but this 
> was twenty years after the fact.  Then I got a call from a retired test 
> engineer who actually lived in my neighborhood...not about the Lynx but 
> about the salvation of his soul.  He was dying of testicular cancer and 
> wanted to be baptized.  After the baptism I asked him about the Lynx and 
> he said he thought he remembered it but knew the man (also retired) who 
> was in charge of the test facility at the time and would contact him. 
> He took a turn for the worse and we never spoke of the Lynx again.  I 
> wonder if it's still out there somewhere...or maybe it got shipped back 
> to the UK.
> 
> Roverecoveryly,
> Kent K.
> 
> Andrew Moss wrote:
> 
> > Hi Dermot,
> > 
> > There are a few "SE"s here in Canada. They are a strange mix of series 1
> > and 2 (as it is know in Europe and Australia). It has the same body and
> > bumpers as the series 1. The interior is slightly revised with extra
> > headrests and slightly different seats. The dashboard is the same as the
> > series 1.
> > 
> > The SE's in Europe and Australia had a different back hatch, completely
> > different interior and different wheels.
> > 
> > I know of a project "SE" here is Ottawa if you are keen. I'm not sure if
> > it is for sale, but it has been off the road for a long time. 
> > 
> > I have a series 2 Vanden Plas that I imported from Austraila. Not for
> > sale right now though. 
> > 
> > Best regards,
> > 
> > Andrew Moss
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > 
> > 
> > -----------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 15:42:11 -0500
> > From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
> > Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's For Sale?
> > To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > Message-ID: <0558d4ccc48545c27524163e575b4fac at verizon.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> > 
> > Anyone out there know of a Series 2 SD1 for sale? I know a few 1982's 
> > were imported into Canada  - i haven't heard of any in the US. There is 
> > one for sale in the Toronto Area Rover Club website, but the owner Bill 
> > Osmond has changed his e-mail address. I heard from a Canadian friend 
> > of a Series 2 2000 in Montreal some years ago.It was brought in to be 
> > in a movie, but then I heard that they had to export again as it was 
> > non conforming.
> > 
> > Dermot Harvey
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > rovernet mailing list
> > rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions:
> > http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> > Back-up list and photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 16:43:10 -0500
> From: Glen Wilson <glenwilson at cavtel.net>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Here was some rust...
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <43EBB76E.6030602 at cavtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> 
> 2000TC resto project
> 
> Here was some rust...
> 
> http://www.jacko1219m.supanet.com/page24.html
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 22:39:31 GMT
> From: "sspmilr at netzero.net" <sspmilr at netzero.net>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <20060208.144006.23285.286924 at webmail01.lax.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
> 
> Hi Roverists:
> 
> Please advise me on how to clean these wheels?  We have wheels in
> various condition.  Some appear to be painted.  Paint remover?  Sand
> blasting?  Bead blasting?  We have one wheel thats almost new.  It's
> silver, and appears to have a clear coating.
> 
> We did some research on the origin of the wheels.  They were made by
> a company in southern California for Rover.  The company is no longer
> in business.
> 
> Is it best to pressure wash them, then paint them, or powder coat them?
> What paint does the best job, and lasts?
> 
> Should I need another SD1 wheel, who has one for sale close to me?
> Canada may be out of wheels.  The price?
> 
> Peter Miller
> Arlington, Wa.
> USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 00:25:39 +0100
> From: "Tom Total" <tom-total at gmx.de>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] BW 35 / BW 65
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Message-ID: <001a01c62d06$f8f705f0$fe7aa8c0 at P6MANIAC>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Hello altogether,
> 
> I have to overhaul the BW 35 in my P6B (1972) and I am somewhat unsure what
> to do now since a friend of mine offered me a well-working BW 65 from a 1975
> car. Does anybody know which modifications - apart from the different gear
> selection mechanism - have to be carried out? Since I borrowed my parts book
> to a friend, I cannot look up the altered parts. What about the suspension?
> Does the original torque converter fit? I am grateful for any advice or
> hint. Many thanks in advance and many greetings from Germany to all
> Roverists all over the world, Tom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 00:53:45 +0100
> From: "Tom Total" <tom-total at gmx.de>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Acid dipped
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Message-ID: <002801c62d0a$e5f17f90$fe7aa8c0 at P6MANIAC>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Sometimes, sellers offer engine parts e.g. pistons or even complete blocks
> as "acid dipped". Does anybody know which acid is suitable for "dipping" for
> cleaning purposes? I can imagine that cast iron parts and items made of
> aluminium may need different acid treatments, don't they? Tom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 19:02:53 -0500
> From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels
> To: "sspmilr at netzero.net" <sspmilr at netzero.net>,
> 	rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <200602090003.k19037fq004981 at smtp.tor.pathcom.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> We have at least one spare SD-1 wheel.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bill Daddis
> 
> Toronto Area Rover Club
> 
> ===========================
> 
> 
> On 8 Feb 06, at 22:39, sspmilr at netzero.net wrote:
> 
> > Hi Roverists:
> > 
> > Please advise me on how to clean these wheels?  We have wheels in
> > various condition.  Some appear to be painted.  Paint remover?  Sand
> > blasting?  Bead blasting?  We have one wheel thats almost new.  It's
> > silver, and appears to have a clear coating.
> > 
> > We did some research on the origin of the wheels.  They were made by a
> > company in southern California for Rover.  The company is no longer in
> > business.
> > 
> > Is it best to pressure wash them, then paint them, or powder coat
> > them? What paint does the best job, and lasts?
> > 
> > Should I need another SD1 wheel, who has one for sale close to me?
> > Canada may be out of wheels.  The price?
> > 
> > Peter Miller
> > Arlington, Wa.
> > USA
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > rovernet mailing list
> > rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> > instructions: http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> > Back-up list and photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> --
> Aurora, Ontario, Canada
> The Toronto Area Rover Club
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 16:07:14 -0800
> From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Acid dipped
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <a06100407c01037244695@[192.168.1.100]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
> 
> Your best bet is to go the library and get a decent text on metal 
> finishing and electroplating, it will cover what you want to know 
> from the cleaning point of view, probably in far more detail than you 
> really want to know.
> 
> On the other hand, if you are referring to the performance process of 
> using acids to actual remove significant metal and lighten 
> components, that is very much a speciality sort of thing. Not sure 
> where to go for that kind of info.
> 
> Yours
> Vern
> 
> 
> 
> >Sometimes, sellers offer engine parts e.g. pistons or even complete blocks
> >as "acid dipped". Does anybody know which acid is suitable for "dipping"
> for
> >cleaning purposes? I can imagine that cast iron parts and items made of
> >aluminium may need different acid treatments, don't they? Tom.
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >rovernet mailing list
> >rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> >To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow 
> >instructions:
> >http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> >Back-up list and photos at:
> >http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 




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