[ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 P6
Dirk Burrowes
dirk at vy-tek.com
Thu Feb 9 04:30:46 GMT 2006
Hi Kent,
My Series 2 P6 is a 1970 TC 2000 made in the 11th month so it may be a 71 by
car standards It is funny I also have a 1970 made the same month that is a
series 1. When I got back in to Rovering I was not aware that the series 2
did not make it to the US in very many numbers. So I started looking for
that model with no luck. I ended up settled for a 68 in outstanding original
condition and restored it.
I am even more surprised to hear that a 2200 made it in to the US. That is a
neat thing! And even better that it is a 1974. What condition is it in?
Where are you?
Thanks for the advice on the transmission oil we will change it this weekend
Dirk
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[ROVERNET-UK]
Today's Topics:
1. RE: De-coking a rover V8 (Damien)
2. Series 2 SD1's (Andrew Moss)
3. Re: Transmission oils (Kent Kinard)
4. Re: Series 2 SD1's (Kent Kinard)
5. Here was some rust... (Glen Wilson)
6. SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels (sspmilr at netzero.net)
7. BW 35 / BW 65 (Tom Total)
8. Acid dipped (Tom Total)
9. Re: SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels (Magnet)
10. Re: Acid dipped (Vern Klukas)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 22:29:30 +1000
From: "Damien" <koffee at iprimus.com.au>
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] De-coking a rover V8
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <000001c62cab$4f43f000$6401a8c0 at koffee>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
OK now this might seem a bit rough (lol) but I the past to decoke the top of
the pistons I have just used a electric drill (variable speed) and a softish
wire brush attachment for the drill and a old vacuum cleaner. Turn over the
piston until level with the top of the block plug any oil galleries etc with
paper towel. Now if you have someone helping get them to hold the vacuum
cleaner nozzle close to the piston and slowly hit the carbon with the wire
brush (obviously wear safety glasses). When finished the piston top vacuum
out around the bore wall and slowly move the piston down and wipe the bore
down with more paper towel. Can be all done in about and hour if in a hurry
or as long as it takes.
Like I said sounds cruel but I have done it this way on many cars with no
adverse effects that I can notice. You can also clean the carbon on the bore
lip as well.
The only thing is not to use a too course a brush.
When you have finished you can almost see your refection in the piston
crown.
Same can be used on the heads to clean up the valves etc
I can almost hear the screams of horror world wide but it works and if you
are careful it doesn't do any harm. I have run cars for over 50,000 miles
after doing this and nothing has happened (well if you don't count the
pistons dropping out through the sump as anything lol kidding)
Damien
Brisbane
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of
Gavin.Walker at csiro.au
Sent: Wednesday, 8 February 2006 8:45 AM
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] De-coking a rover V8
Hi Kent,
I took a look through woolies yesterday and could not find "easy off
blue". Oven cleaners were pretty much all in pressure packs. Most
contained significant amounts of NaOH. One claimed to be "non-caustic",
however the back warned of strong alkaline salts. Since when are strong
alkaline salts "non-caustic"? Other cleaners for stovetops were citrus
based but warned against used with aluminium. In the "easy off" line
woolies stocked "bam" and "degreaser", the later cautioning used with
aluminium. Got me confused, so I haven't bought/tried anything yet.
The V8 upper cylinder kit I bought comes with silvered tin head gaskets.
Why should I remove the silver coating? It also came with gaskets for
both SU and Stromberg carburettors. Having played with both I'm
struggling to see where I use some of it. The kit contains little round
rubber washers, o-rings, copper compression rings. No idea where the
latter would go. Didn't come with any exhaust manifold gaskets, though
I kept asking the shop about those, will have to get them separately.
Lastly I finally got the EGR valve out. It wasn't connected and just
got in the way. Now have a suitable replacement bolt.
Gavin Walker
Canberra, Australia
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 09:47:07 -0500
From: "Andrew Moss" <amoss at xplornet.com>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <003001c62cbe$8d1c0530$c3d9010a at KITCHEN>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi Dermot,
There are a few "SE"s here in Canada. They are a strange mix of series 1
and 2 (as it is know in Europe and Australia). It has the same body and
bumpers as the series 1. The interior is slightly revised with extra
headrests and slightly different seats. The dashboard is the same as the
series 1.
The SE's in Europe and Australia had a different back hatch, completely
different interior and different wheels.
I know of a project "SE" here is Ottawa if you are keen. I'm not sure if
it is for sale, but it has been off the road for a long time.
I have a series 2 Vanden Plas that I imported from Austraila. Not for
sale right now though.
Best regards,
Andrew Moss
Ottawa, Canada
-----------------------------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 15:42:11 -0500
From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's For Sale?
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <0558d4ccc48545c27524163e575b4fac at verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
Anyone out there know of a Series 2 SD1 for sale? I know a few 1982's
were imported into Canada - i haven't heard of any in the US. There is
one for sale in the Toronto Area Rover Club website, but the owner Bill
Osmond has changed his e-mail address. I heard from a Canadian friend
of a Series 2 2000 in Montreal some years ago.It was brought in to be
in a movie, but then I heard that they had to export again as it was
non conforming.
Dermot Harvey
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 11:47:09 -0600
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at swbell.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Transmission oils
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <43EA2E9D.1030004 at swbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Dirk Burrowes wrote:
> Now to the question, we want to change the transmission fluid and there
has
> been a lot of discussion on the net as to what the best fluid to use, but
> for the life of me I can't find those posts. So suggestions would be
> appreciated along with any first car stories or advice for my son.
Hi Dirk,
Use Type F automatic transmission fluid. You can still get it at most
auto supply stores. I bought a couple of cases a few years ago and
haven't used much yet. I need it for both the P6B and the P5B Coupe.
Type F is a little thinner and less slippery than Type A (Dextron). You
can use Type F in Type A transmissions and they shift a little harder,
but you can't use Type A in a Type F trans or it will slip too much and
overheat.
I too have a Series 2 P6 ('74 2200TC) in need of restoration. Is yours
a 2000 or a 2200? The '71 NAS 2000TC (Series 2)is the rarest production
P6. Only 222 were built and all went to North Amaerica as far as I can
tell. The 2200's are far less common in North America, but quite common
in the rest of the world, though LHD examples must be few and far between.
Roverly,
Kent k.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 12:18:20 -0600
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at swbell.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <43EA35EC.40907 at swbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Hi Dermot and Andrew,
The Canadian SE's you refer to are probably '81's and are indeed
something of a transition model. Although the NAS '81's used the "10
m.p.h." bumpers, I don't know which headlamps they used. Technically, I
think they are actually Series 1's because of the hatch and dash and
because it is generally agreed that Series 2 production didn't start
until January of '82.
I got a set of the seats, door pannels and dash (with electric mirror
control) from Ted Schumacker several years ago. The car they came from
was part of the BL test fleet in the US and Ted was restricted by
contract from putting any of them back on the road, so they were parted
out. The dash went to Mexico, but the seats and door pannels will go in
my next SD1 that gets painted...much nicer than the usual Series 1 seats
and a slightly different design. I negotiated several years ago for a
1981 VDP in the UK...black leather...but was unable to arrange shipping
at the time. These are the seats to look for for any Series 1.
...and here's a tasty tidbit...sort of like legendary lost gold mines in
the old west. When BL abandoned the the (second) Lynx project (TR8 four
seat fastback with SD1 type rear suspension) they may have left one in
the US. The particular car was in Texas at one time for hot weather
tests, probably by Southwest Research in San Antonio at their Uvalde,
TX, test track. Notes indicate a Lynx that was "tested to destruction"
for durability test purposes. I spent several years making inquiries
around Uvalde and Southwest Research trying to find details, but this
was twenty years after the fact. Then I got a call from a retired test
engineer who actually lived in my neighborhood...not about the Lynx but
about the salvation of his soul. He was dying of testicular cancer and
wanted to be baptized. After the baptism I asked him about the Lynx and
he said he thought he remembered it but knew the man (also retired) who
was in charge of the test facility at the time and would contact him.
He took a turn for the worse and we never spoke of the Lynx again. I
wonder if it's still out there somewhere...or maybe it got shipped back
to the UK.
Roverecoveryly,
Kent K.
Andrew Moss wrote:
> Hi Dermot,
>
> There are a few "SE"s here in Canada. They are a strange mix of series 1
> and 2 (as it is know in Europe and Australia). It has the same body and
> bumpers as the series 1. The interior is slightly revised with extra
> headrests and slightly different seats. The dashboard is the same as the
> series 1.
>
> The SE's in Europe and Australia had a different back hatch, completely
> different interior and different wheels.
>
> I know of a project "SE" here is Ottawa if you are keen. I'm not sure if
> it is for sale, but it has been off the road for a long time.
>
> I have a series 2 Vanden Plas that I imported from Austraila. Not for
> sale right now though.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Andrew Moss
> Ottawa, Canada
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 15:42:11 -0500
> From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
> Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Series 2 SD1's For Sale?
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Message-ID: <0558d4ccc48545c27524163e575b4fac at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
> Anyone out there know of a Series 2 SD1 for sale? I know a few 1982's
> were imported into Canada - i haven't heard of any in the US. There is
> one for sale in the Toronto Area Rover Club website, but the owner Bill
> Osmond has changed his e-mail address. I heard from a Canadian friend
> of a Series 2 2000 in Montreal some years ago.It was brought in to be
> in a movie, but then I heard that they had to export again as it was
> non conforming.
>
> Dermot Harvey
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
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>
>
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 16:43:10 -0500
From: Glen Wilson <glenwilson at cavtel.net>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Here was some rust...
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <43EBB76E.6030602 at cavtel.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
2000TC resto project
Here was some rust...
http://www.jacko1219m.supanet.com/page24.html
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 22:39:31 GMT
From: "sspmilr at netzero.net" <sspmilr at netzero.net>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20060208.144006.23285.286924 at webmail01.lax.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain
Hi Roverists:
Please advise me on how to clean these wheels? We have wheels in
various condition. Some appear to be painted. Paint remover? Sand
blasting? Bead blasting? We have one wheel thats almost new. It's
silver, and appears to have a clear coating.
We did some research on the origin of the wheels. They were made by
a company in southern California for Rover. The company is no longer
in business.
Is it best to pressure wash them, then paint them, or powder coat them?
What paint does the best job, and lasts?
Should I need another SD1 wheel, who has one for sale close to me?
Canada may be out of wheels. The price?
Peter Miller
Arlington, Wa.
USA
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 00:25:39 +0100
From: "Tom Total" <tom-total at gmx.de>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] BW 35 / BW 65
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <001a01c62d06$f8f705f0$fe7aa8c0 at P6MANIAC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello altogether,
I have to overhaul the BW 35 in my P6B (1972) and I am somewhat unsure what
to do now since a friend of mine offered me a well-working BW 65 from a 1975
car. Does anybody know which modifications - apart from the different gear
selection mechanism - have to be carried out? Since I borrowed my parts book
to a friend, I cannot look up the altered parts. What about the suspension?
Does the original torque converter fit? I am grateful for any advice or
hint. Many thanks in advance and many greetings from Germany to all
Roverists all over the world, Tom.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2006 00:53:45 +0100
From: "Tom Total" <tom-total at gmx.de>
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Acid dipped
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <002801c62d0a$e5f17f90$fe7aa8c0 at P6MANIAC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Sometimes, sellers offer engine parts e.g. pistons or even complete blocks
as "acid dipped". Does anybody know which acid is suitable for "dipping" for
cleaning purposes? I can imagine that cast iron parts and items made of
aluminium may need different acid treatments, don't they? Tom.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 19:02:53 -0500
From: "Magnet" <magnet at roverclub.org>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] SD1 Cast Aluminum Wheels
To: "sspmilr at netzero.net" <sspmilr at netzero.net>,
rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <200602090003.k19037fq004981 at smtp.tor.pathcom.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
We have at least one spare SD-1 wheel.
Cheers,
Bill Daddis
Toronto Area Rover Club
===========================
On 8 Feb 06, at 22:39, sspmilr at netzero.net wrote:
> Hi Roverists:
>
> Please advise me on how to clean these wheels? We have wheels in
> various condition. Some appear to be painted. Paint remover? Sand
> blasting? Bead blasting? We have one wheel thats almost new. It's
> silver, and appears to have a clear coating.
>
> We did some research on the origin of the wheels. They were made by a
> company in southern California for Rover. The company is no longer in
> business.
>
> Is it best to pressure wash them, then paint them, or powder coat
> them? What paint does the best job, and lasts?
>
> Should I need another SD1 wheel, who has one for sale close to me?
> Canada may be out of wheels. The price?
>
> Peter Miller
> Arlington, Wa.
> USA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
> instructions: http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
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--
Aurora, Ontario, Canada
The Toronto Area Rover Club
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 16:07:14 -0800
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Acid dipped
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <a06100407c01037244695@[192.168.1.100]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
Your best bet is to go the library and get a decent text on metal
finishing and electroplating, it will cover what you want to know
from the cleaning point of view, probably in far more detail than you
really want to know.
On the other hand, if you are referring to the performance process of
using acids to actual remove significant metal and lighten
components, that is very much a speciality sort of thing. Not sure
where to go for that kind of info.
Yours
Vern
>Sometimes, sellers offer engine parts e.g. pistons or even complete blocks
>as "acid dipped". Does anybody know which acid is suitable for "dipping"
for
>cleaning purposes? I can imagine that cast iron parts and items made of
>aluminium may need different acid treatments, don't they? Tom.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>rovernet mailing list
>rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
>instructions:
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--
Vern Klukas I'm a little . . .
Inkspot Type & Design
vern at inkspotco.com
------------------------------
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