[ROVERNET - UK] Fuel Pump woes

Slatskars slatskars at comcast.net
Wed Aug 3 07:06:03 BST 2005


Geff,

What brand of pump is it?

Did you check out that 68 2000TC?

Slats
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "geffandjulie" <geffandjulie at comcast.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>; <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Fuel Pump woes


> US 3500S all have an electric pump mounted alongside the fuel tank, 
> covered by a foam insulator.  The mechanical pump is not there and is 
> blanked out by a triangular plate.  The reason is said to be fuel 
> starvation from boiling in the lines in hot temperatures. The mechanical 
> pump could not overcome it. The hood louvers were added simultaneously for 
> the same reason. Racy...but really to keep it turning over in summer.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "S Manwell" <smanwell at sprintmail.com>
> To: <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2005 4:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Fuel Pump woes
>
>
>> Lance,
>>
>> I'm not too familiar with 3500S specifics, but I think the Federal 3500S 
>> may have had a US-made Facet electric fuel pump.  I think you might be 
>> able to get the same pump at a NAPA autoparts store or similar.  Also, I 
>> wonder if there is any restriction in the straw that the pump is sucking 
>> from...
>>
>> --Steve
>>
>> Lance La Certe wrote:
>>
>>>Hi Gang,
>>>
>>>Need help with fuel pump and discovered some info that may be helpful to
>>>others on the list.
>>>
>>>1) 1970 3500S ----I'm in need of a new fuel pump.  Any suggestions for a
>>>state-side source (I will be contacting Ruth Burgess in Canada)
>>>
>>>2) I need to know if anyone can give me the specs on the OEM fuel
>>>pump----specifically what are the upper and lower pressure limits (e.g.,
>>>2.5 psi to 4.5 psi, etc).
>>>
>>>3) For several months I have struggled with the car not being able to 
>>>idle
>>>once the engine was at normal operating temperatures (especially in the
>>>summer when it has become especially hot).  After many helpful 
>>>suggestions
>>>from the listers (e.g. blow out the return fuel lines; check the
>>>circulating coolant line which runs directly into the intake manifold;
>>>check your timing, etc)-----I discovered that when cold and just starting
>>>that my fuel pump was putting out only about 3 psi-----this was adequate 
>>>to
>>>keep things running smoothly, but after several minutes of running, as 
>>>the
>>>fuel pump becomes warm it actually becomes less efficient (apparently 
>>>most
>>>all fuel pumps operate this way----hence the listed range on the specs). 
>>>As it turns out, when warm (and this has nothing to do with the engine
>>>temperature, but the pump temperature), it was only putting out 1 psi. 
>>>At
>>>this pressure there is not enough flow into the carb bowls to overcome 
>>>the
>>>tendency for the gas to vaporize, especially when the engine is warm/hot. 
>>>With a properly operating pump which is keeping the pressure up, it 
>>>should
>>>overcome the tendency to vaporize and allow the engine to continue to 
>>>idle.
>>>
>>>
>>>4) My mechanic is suggesting that I find a pump that will put out about 7
>>>psi when cold, so that when it heats up it will still be putting out 
>>>about
>>>3 psi to overcome the vaporizing problems.
>>>
>>>Any help with this would be appreciated.
>>>
>>>Lance La Certe,  Denver, CO
>>>
>>>
>>>Lance La Certe
>>>lacpsyd at earthlink.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
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