[ROVERNET - UK] Underbody paint

Jonathan Hewison Jonathan.Hewison at vuw.ac.nz
Wed Oct 20 19:59:11 BST 2004

Por 15 is amazing stuff- I have used it on all my cars, but also tried
on  my balcony handrail. You paint straight over the rust and then top
coat with whatever- the handrail is still perfect after 6 years
overlooking the sea! 

Jonathan Hewison
Engineering Technician
Faculty of Architecture & Design 
Victoria University of Wellington
Te Whare Wananga o Te Upoko o Te Ika 
New Zealand. 
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Russell [mailto:p6rovers at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 21 October 2004 5:46 a.m.
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Underbody paint

On each of my Rover 2000 restorations,I climbed underneath the car after
supporting it on 4 Jackstands. I proceeded to scrap off loose original
undercoating.  In order to get the pressure (upside down and backwards)
I ended up using a 1/2 inch or a 1 inch wood chisel.  As I was scraping
I noticed veins of rust running under most of the undercoating.  I
decided that I should remove it all.  When all the undercoating was
removed, I saw a variety of conditions. I saw large expanses of unmarked
paint primed finish to a large network of rust from fine veins to
serious patches.

I used a rust inhibitor called "Extend". It contains phosphoric acid
which changes the iron oxide to iron disulphide (which doesn't rust).
However, other people have tried "POR 15" to great effect and I would
love to try the stuff but I can't find it out here.

Anyway, I painted on the rust inhibitor firt.  Then I painted on black
Hammerite rust resiting enamel paint to protect the Extend.

I finished with a spray-on black rubberized undercoating similar to waht
has been mentioned already.

This process holds up well.  It lasted for about 10 years before rust
returned in the sill area.  The rest of the underbody is in great

I cut out the returned rust with an angle grinder and welded in the same
metal thickness but in stainless steel I bought as scrap from a scrap
dealer.  The sills were welded by me using stainless 10 years ago and
are still in mint condition.  I expect the dissimilar metal problem
caught up with me after 10 years. The rust was in the 4 sill corners
just beyond the stainless sills.  Now the stainless extends further.

If you can catch the rust before it starts, that's the best plan.
However, I found that Rover sill rust seems to start from the inside out
so by the time you see it on the surface, it has a serious hold behind.


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