From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Mon Oct  3 12:33:36 2011
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 19:33:36 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  Rover p6 brake advice
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W239A977CF6CADE3B00393387B70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W195C6018CD3BBDE1EF5F1D87B40@phx.gbl>,
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16132E1D@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<COL111-W239A977CF6CADE3B00393387B70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>

Dear friends of the ring, 

		Hope everything well.

Please, I need an advice.
In the last we I used, after some months, my p6 and I had a problem.
When braking, the brake pedal went down without stopping the car.
Later it came back up, and only at that moment brakes worked.
Pushing it I had the sensation of a lack of pressure.

Any ideas?

I parked the car after a short trip, and did not have time to analize
the situation properly.

In my opinion it could be air in the pipes, or, more probably, a hole in
a pipe, in the brake pump or in a seal.

What should I look for?

Best regards and thanks in advance, GR.





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From peter at king-co.com  Tue Oct  4 15:49:26 2011
From: peter at king-co.com (peter king)
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 16:49:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Fuel Pump and Workshop Manual
In-Reply-To: <ximss-1451935@rymes.net>
References: <ximss-1451935@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <40A99C92-2094-4DFE-A90A-2909E0AD701D@king-co.com>

Hi Tom,

I may have a spare fuel pump. . I'll look and let you know as soon as the water recedes from my flooded basement. 5 1/2 inches of rain in 2 hours here in Massachusetts last night.

I restored my '63 p5 some years back, so let me know if I can help with anything. I have some spare parts, chrome strips, etc.

(small) Pics of my P5:  http://www.king-co.com/rover/rovergallery/index.htm

Peter King





On Sep 19, 2011, at 10:00 AM, Tom Rymes wrote:

> 
> Well, the P5 has landed, and she needs a lot of love, I overpaid, and it's been a longer wait than I intended, but still a fun ride. There was P5 up in Stowe in our class this weekend, which provided a nice incentive to get cracking, too.
> 
> Does anyone have a proper SU fuel pump for the P5 3-Litre that they would be willing to part with? Mine has been downgraded with modern Rotary vane pumps, with which I have generally had good luck, but are quite loud. I also just like the "Tick, Tick, Tick" of the SU when turning the key, and tend to be a fan of originality...
> 
> Lastly, I asked about a Workshop Manual earlier and received a few replies, but later contact via e-mail has failed, perhaps due to spam filters or the like. If you have one you'd like to part with, especially one with a broken or failing binding, that would be excellent. If I can find one that is comeing apart at the binding I will take it apart and scan it to PDF, then have it rebound at Kinkos or wherever.
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Tom
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 

peter king + company
21 drydock avenue
boston, ma 02210
617-292-7877
www.king-co.com















From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Wed Oct  5 17:24:27 2011
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE LA CERTE PSY D)
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 16:24:27 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] (no subject)
Message-ID: <COL111-W540A0F7E5768C5AB81FCB683F80@phx.gbl>

Follow this link and enjoy every moment of shopping! http://arcadejunkies.ar.funpic.de/friend_invite.php?zuluckyid=y4o3
 		 	   		  
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From den at aachenkennels.com  Thu Oct  6 06:35:37 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 19:35:37 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 rebuilding
References: <4E7AAE73.8090607@adam.com.au>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D8CC@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hello Grant,
I have a something that may assist. Send an email to
den at aachenkennels.com I'll scan it and send it over. I also have some
spares for the P3 so let me know if you ever need something.
Den.

Den.

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Grant Francis
Sent: Thursday, 22 September 2011 11:42 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 rebuilding


Morning to all again,

I am back in search of something that may be a tad hard to get, but here

goes.

I am re-installing the instrument panel on the P3 75. It was dissmantled

by other persons, and NO labelling took place, you got to love these
people.

I do not have a readable wiring diagram. What I have is what looks like 
a copy of a copy, and is about 1/2 the size of a A4 paper, and quite 
blurry. I forget where I found it, but attempts to magnify it make it 
worse. My eyes are way past good, but even younger persons eyes cannot 
decipher what I really need.

Does anybody have a wiring schematis/diagram that is readable, that can 
be scanned, that I can I obtain to save me starting from scratch and 
following my nose of redoing the whole area. The wiring is in very good 
condition, so my thoughts lean towards a loom replacement not all that 
long ago, which is fantastic, but no help here.

Once again, thanks in advance.

Grant Farncis
Adelaide
Stralia

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/






From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Thu Oct  6 07:00:05 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:00:05 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
References: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W14E4F0AAFF09260FF6735D95F90@phx.gbl>


You have sized up the shop quite accurately...I replaced the windshield seal in a 3500s about 10 yrs ago ..it was not any problem at all...however I still prefer to take it to people who know the business better than I do.. I would locate a place that has confidence in what they can do..still be sure that you can be close by if you feel more comfortable (I always do). The workshop manual has pretty good info on this as well.
 
 Regards
 
 Dennis Brooks
 

> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 06:30:13 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
> 
> 
> I took my car to the local glass shop to get an estimate on replacing 
> the front windshield seal on my 2000 TC. The shop owner told me a new 
> seal will leak "even worse than the old one, and we will definitely 
> break the glass taking it out." He could not tell me why a new seal 
> would leak, Why they would break the glass, didn't want to listen to 
> any explanation of how the windshield is held in place, or look at my 
> workshop manual. They quoted $500.00 to do the job if "I really wanted 
> it done". I won't bring this guy any other business again!
> Who has replaced their own windshield seals? It can't be as bad as 
> this numpty makes it out to be....
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Thu Oct  6 07:43:31 2011
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 13:43:31 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
References: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <1317905011.55023.YahooMailNeo@web86708.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Roy,

I cannot understand why he would tell you this. This is a fairly straightforward diy job.

Take off the wiper arms and the scuttle panel. You'll then see three blocks with threaded studs welded to them, release the tension by undoing the nuts and hey presto out she comes. Of course one should exercise care and caution when removing but they are far easier than many cars of equal age. I accept some of the new re-manufactured windscreen? seals have questionable 'exactness' as it were, but I believe Scotts get a good report.

Regards

Alan Francis (partviking)



________________________________
From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Friday, 30 September 2011, 13:30
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement


I took my car to the local glass shop to get an estimate on replacing the front windshield seal on my 2000 TC. The shop owner told me a new seal will leak "even worse than the old one, and we will definitely break the glass taking it out." He could not tell me why a new seal would leak, Why they would break the glass, didn't want to listen to any explanation of how the windshield is held in place, or look at my workshop manual. They quoted $500.00 to do the job if "I really wanted it done". I won't bring this guy any other business again!
Who has replaced their own windshield seals? It can't be as bad as this numpty makes it out to be....


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Thu Oct  6 08:12:55 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:12:55 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  Rover p6 brake advice
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <COL111-W195C6018CD3BBDE1EF5F1D87B40@phx.gbl>,
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16132E1D@Server.adoptsec.local><COL111-W239A977CF6CADE3B00393387B70@phx.gbl>
	<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <C2837A183C09423582DA0CD9CD3E8B8A@SD1>

What P6 do you have?

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 1:34 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rover p6 brake advice


Dear friends of the ring, 

		Hope everything well.

Please, I need an advice.
In the last we I used, after some months, my p6 and I had a problem.
When braking, the brake pedal went down without stopping the car.
Later it came back up, and only at that moment brakes worked.
Pushing it I had the sensation of a lack of pressure.

Any ideas?

I parked the car after a short trip, and did not have time to analize
the situation properly.

In my opinion it could be air in the pipes, or, more probably, a hole in
a pipe, in the brake pump or in a seal.

What should I look for?

Best regards and thanks in advance, GR.





**************************************
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
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*************************************
Want to post photos?
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**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3939 - Release Date: 10/05/11
02:34:00



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Thu Oct  6 08:17:00 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:17:00 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
References: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <25712BB8D71846FCBB6245FD195A84B8@SD1>

They are easy to replace so look at the book and do it yourself. Use some
silicone rubber caulking on the seal where it meets the metal and the glass
and it won't leak.
Ben

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Roy Babiuk
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 8:30 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement


I took my car to the local glass shop to get an estimate on replacing  
the front windshield seal on my 2000 TC. The shop owner told me a new  
seal will leak "even worse than the old one, and we will definitely  
break the glass taking it out." He could not tell me why a new seal  
would leak, Why they would break the glass, didn't want to listen to  
any explanation of how the windshield is held in place, or look at my  
workshop manual. They quoted $500.00 to do the job if "I really wanted  
it done". I won't bring this guy any other business again!
Who has replaced their own windshield seals? It can't be as bad as  
this numpty makes it out to be....


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3939 - Release Date: 10/05/11
02:34:00



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Thu Oct  6 08:19:38 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:19:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <4E7AAE73.8090607@adam.com.au>
References: <4E7AAE73.8090607@adam.com.au>
Message-ID: <90BA7146E01C4E589010DADC02F5B51E@SD1>

What happened to the photos I sent you? Were they not good enough? You can
also find the shop manual on Ebay UK which is where I got mine.
Ben 


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Grant Francis
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 11:42 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 rebuilding


Morning to all again,

I am back in search of something that may be a tad hard to get, but here 
goes.

I am re-installing the instrument panel on the P3 75. It was dissmantled 
by other persons, and NO labelling took place, you got to love these people.

I do not have a readable wiring diagram. What I have is what looks like 
a copy of a copy, and is about 1/2 the size of a A4 paper, and quite 
blurry. I forget where I found it, but attempts to magnify it make it 
worse. My eyes are way past good, but even younger persons eyes cannot 
decipher what I really need.

Does anybody have a wiring schematis/diagram that is readable, that can 
be scanned, that I can I obtain to save me starting from scratch and 
following my nose of redoing the whole area. The wiring is in very good 
condition, so my thoughts lean towards a loom replacement not all that 
long ago, which is fantastic, but no help here.

Once again, thanks in advance.

Grant Farncis
Adelaide
Stralia

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3939 - Release Date: 10/05/11
02:34:00



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Thu Oct  6 08:22:07 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:22:07 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Water Pump TC2000
In-Reply-To: <741840685.1049120.1316894862685.JavaMail.root@sz0057a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <741840685.1049120.1316894862685.JavaMail.root@sz0057a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7BC7D5CA44764CFFAABB583E0F1E7EF3@SD1>

Here is a good place to go:  http://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/home.htm



-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rwacek at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2011 4:08 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Water Pump TC2000





Good Day Mates. 



Mine gave out so I?pulled it. Where can I get a new/rebuilt one? 



Then there is the hub assembly. I'd like to send it somewhere to have it
removed and 



refittted to the new one. Plus I should get a new lower radiator hose. Any
suggestions? 



Many thanks.
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3939 - Release Date: 10/05/11
02:34:00



From aboasberg at webtv.net  Thu Oct  6 08:34:20 2011
From: aboasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 13:34:20 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Parts for  3500S and TC 2000
Message-ID: <BLU160-ds943E57E8DA8D98F9FD7D5B5F90@phx.gbl>

I need a brake caliper for the left rear brake on my '70 3500S and a right rear one for my '69 TC 2000.

The 3500S keeps rolling even after the gear selector is placed in "Park".

To fix this problem, I'm told that I need a spherical seat for the lever, a compensator bracket and a compensator block.

Does anyone have these parts?

Thanks.

Albert




From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Thu Oct  6 13:45:30 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 18:45:30 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Water Pump TC2000
In-Reply-To: <741840685.1049120.1316894862685.JavaMail.root@sz0057a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <741840685.1049120.1316894862685.JavaMail.root@sz0057a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W4580421FE6C6B97A549196B8F90@phx.gbl>


Try: Wadhams UK - they'll want the old one on exchange.EP Services - UK - they specialise in waterpumps http://www.ep-services.co.uk/
Good old ebay or equivalent - catch as catch can there - self-evidently.
Bottom hose - either you get lucky and find NOS from ebay or whatever, or just take the old one to a parts place and hunt through the stock until you find one that will do [hint: take calipers with you to check internal diameters] or use a generic flex hose.
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 20:07:42 +0000
> From: rwacek at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Water Pump TC2000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good Day Mates. 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine gave out so I pulled it. Where can I get a new/rebuilt one? 
> 
> 
> 
> Then there is the hub assembly. I'd like to send it somewhere to have it removed and 
> 
> 
> 
> refittted to the new one. Plus I should get a new lower radiator hose. Any suggestions? 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Thu Oct  6 13:49:32 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 18:49:32 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
References: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W24F2EF4064C9820957CF8AB8F90@phx.gbl>


You're getting the classic bum's rush from a business that doesn't want to tackle what they evidently regard as an unfamiliar, high-risk job.It's their way of saying "We don't want this job.".

> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 06:30:13 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
> 
> 
> I took my car to the local glass shop to get an estimate on replacing  
> the front windshield seal on my 2000 TC. The shop owner told me a new  
> seal will leak "even worse than the old one, and we will definitely  
> break the glass taking it out." He could not tell me why a new seal  
> would leak, Why they would break the glass, didn't want to listen to  
> any explanation of how the windshield is held in place, or look at my  
> workshop manual. They quoted $500.00 to do the job if "I really wanted  
> it done". I won't bring this guy any other business again!
> Who has replaced their own windshield seals? It can't be as bad as  
> this numpty makes it out to be....
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Thu Oct  6 13:52:51 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 18:52:51 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  Rover p6 brake advice
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <COL111-W195C6018CD3BBDE1EF5F1D87B40@phx.gbl>, ,
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16132E1D@Server.adoptsec.local>,
	<COL111-W239A977CF6CADE3B00393387B70@phx.gbl>,
	<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W1209DD6E194AAA64BAE0F3B8F90@phx.gbl>


Not a lot to go on.
Fluid levels?Any evident fluid leaks?Clamped hoses in turn and seen what happens?Overall condition of the system?

> Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 19:33:36 +0200
> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  Rover p6 brake advice
> 
> 
> Dear friends of the ring, 
> 
> 		Hope everything well.
> 
> Please, I need an advice.
> In the last we I used, after some months, my p6 and I had a problem.
> When braking, the brake pedal went down without stopping the car.
> Later it came back up, and only at that moment brakes worked.
> Pushing it I had the sensation of a lack of pressure.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> I parked the car after a short trip, and did not have time to analize
> the situation properly.
> 
> In my opinion it could be air in the pipes, or, more probably, a hole in
> a pipe, in the brake pump or in a seal.
> 
> What should I look for?
> 
> Best regards and thanks in advance, GR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> *************************************
> Want to post photos?
> Go here: http://photobucket.com/
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From vern at inkspotco.com  Thu Oct  6 14:13:19 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 12:13:19 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W24F2EF4064C9820957CF8AB8F90@phx.gbl>
References: <2DF4F03A-E23A-45DB-8E8A-0B927CC89B27@telusplanet.net>
	<BLU157-W24F2EF4064C9820957CF8AB8F90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <56849680-7ED1-4EF0-A28B-2BBB3911F83C@inkspotco.com>

The front & rear screens on a P6 are ridiculously easy to remove and install, with the exception that the replacement seals generally a pain to get right in the corners (though they say they've improved.

I had the pleasure of changing a front screen once using a OEM seal in the early 80's, and that seal worked a treat.

You need to find a glass shop that likes variety.

Yours
Vern

On 2011-10-06, at 11:49 AM, Richard Sharpe wrote:

> 
> 
> You're getting the classic bum's rush from a business that doesn't want to tackle what they evidently regard as an unfamiliar, high-risk job.It's their way of saying "We don't want this job.".
> 
>> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 06:30:13 -0600
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
>> 
>> 
>> I took my car to the local glass shop to get an estimate on replacing  
>> the front windshield seal on my 2000 TC. The shop owner told me a new  
>> seal will leak "even worse than the old one, and we will definitely  
>> break the glass taking it out." He could not tell me why a new seal  
>> would leak, Why they would break the glass, didn't want to listen to  
>> any explanation of how the windshield is held in place, or look at my  
>> workshop manual. They quoted $500.00 to do the job if "I really wanted  
>> it done". I won't bring this guy any other business again!
>> Who has replaced their own windshield seals? It can't be as bad as  
>> this numpty makes it out to be....
>> 
>> 
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
> 		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
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> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From gjkzscruggs at verizon.net  Thu Oct  6 14:40:33 2011
From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net (Scruggs Family)
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 15:40:33 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] windshield seal replacement and water pump
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1317920406.21311.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.7.1317920406.21311.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <01af01cc845f$d0559150$7100b3f0$@net>

Greetings, 

I'm intrigued by this seal discussion in that I have not been able to find
any replacement seals for a P6 windscreen.   Who has them... I need three. 

Regarding the 2000 water pump... in most every issue of Hemmings Motor News
in most all of the Parts sections there is at least one guy that will
apparently rebuild any pump.  I have no direct experience here but it is a
source. 

Regards,
Gross Scruggs
Annapolis MD, USA




From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Oct  6 15:06:41 2011
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 14:06:41 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Windshield seal replacement
Message-ID: <DB0C62A3-CDF3-4E4B-BD0A-940595428871@telusplanet.net>

Thanks to all who replied!  It was painfully obvious the shop owner  
didn't want to do the job when after all his posturing about why he  
couldn't do it he says "I don't even know what kind of car this is..."
I had a nice conversation with Ruth at ABC this morning. Got some  
great tips on doing this job correctly including ensuring car is on  
level ground, use of a rounded 2X4 to ensure the corners of the seal  
are located properly. My replacement seal is a good used one the  
previous owner of my car obtained from Ruth's business some years ago.  
Still very flexible with no tears or weatherchecking. As it was  
previously on a car I'm hoping it has all the right curves to seal for  
years to come. I will get this done next spring as Alberta is getting  
chilly and Rover season is swiftly coming to an end.
For those looking for seals, Scott's Old Rubber ( www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au 
) makes front and rear windshield seals. 
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From kkinard at att.net  Thu Oct  6 15:14:52 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2011 15:14:52 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] windshield seal replacement and water pump
In-Reply-To: <01af01cc845f$d0559150$7100b3f0$@net>
References: <mailman.7.1317920406.21311.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<01af01cc845f$d0559150$7100b3f0$@net>
Message-ID: <4E8E0C3C.4030607@att.net>

Hi Gross,

any replacement seals for a P6 windscreen.   Who has them... I need three.

Scott's Old Auto in Melbourne, Australia.
> Regarding the 2000 water pump... in most every issue of Hemmings Motor News
> in most all of the Parts sections there is at least one guy that will
> apparently rebuild any pump.  I have no direct experience here but it is a
> source.
>    
My local pump rebuilder couldn't get a kit. The bearing is a very 
special stepped piece that is not available in this country. Ruth had 
some made up years ago but I doubt she has any left.

Roverly,
Kent K.



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Thu Oct  6 16:49:54 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 17:49:54 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] windshield seal replacement and water pump
In-Reply-To: <01af01cc845f$d0559150$7100b3f0$@net>
References: <mailman.7.1317920406.21311.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<01af01cc845f$d0559150$7100b3f0$@net>
Message-ID: <F307F97747964AC39994BA1D7A569988@SD1>

Try http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/. He has them.

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Scruggs Family
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 3:41 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] windshield seal replacement and water pump


Greetings, 

I'm intrigued by this seal discussion in that I have not been able to find
any replacement seals for a P6 windscreen.   Who has them... I need three. 

Regarding the 2000 water pump... in most every issue of Hemmings Motor News
in most all of the Parts sections there is at least one guy that will
apparently rebuild any pump.  I have no direct experience here but it is a
source. 

Regards,
Gross Scruggs
Annapolis MD, USA



**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3941 - Release Date: 10/06/11
02:34:00



From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Thu Oct  6 18:13:54 2011
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2011 10:13:54 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 convertible
In-Reply-To: <3C8884536D184C43ADB9D98BD1AF69BE@rw>
References: <1576789751.1330750.1316279648302.JavaMail.root@cl05-host02.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net>
	<3C8884536D184C43ADB9D98BD1AF69BE@rw>
Message-ID: <8fds875i8de08c6lek948c36pk04m0lmlb@4ax.com>

On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 16:50:21 +0200, you wrote:

>
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/unclejeffers/6191085897/

And looks like it has SD1 Vitesse wheels.

Cheers,

Peter H


From britishrover at gmail.com  Thu Oct  6 21:31:03 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 22:31:03 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 convertible
In-Reply-To: <8fds875i8de08c6lek948c36pk04m0lmlb@4ax.com>
References: <1576789751.1330750.1316279648302.JavaMail.root@cl05-host02.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net>
	<3C8884536D184C43ADB9D98BD1AF69BE@rw>
	<8fds875i8de08c6lek948c36pk04m0lmlb@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_Sw4x0hxsLxFTmiw0AQfdFOB0ysfRwZ7bM7J66ibKBVpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yes they are...

On 10/6/11, Peter Huttemeier <peterhut at activ8.net.au> wrote:
>
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2011 16:50:21 +0200, you wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/unclejeffers/6191085897/
>
> And looks like it has SD1 Vitesse wheels.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Peter H
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Fri Oct  7 04:31:43 2011
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 11:31:43 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  P6 brake advice
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_Sw4x0hxsLxFTmiw0AQfdFOB0ysfRwZ7bM7J66ibKBVpQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1576789751.1330750.1316279648302.JavaMail.root@cl05-host02.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net><3C8884536D184C43ADB9D98BD1AF69BE@rw><8fds875i8de08c6lek948c36pk04m0lmlb@4ax.com>
	<CAKQjg_Sw4x0hxsLxFTmiw0AQfdFOB0ysfRwZ7bM7J66ibKBVpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959601070847@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>

Dear friends of the ring, 

		Once again.

Hope everything well.

Please, I need an advice.
In the last we I used, after some months, my p6 and I had a problem.
When braking, the brake pedal went down without stopping the car.
Later it came back up, and only at that moment brakes worked.
Pushing it I had the sensation of a lack of pressure.

Any ideas?

I parked the car after a short trip, and did not have time to analize
the situation properly.

In my opinion it could be air in the pipes, or, more probably, a hole in
a pipe, in the brake pump or in a seal.

What should I look for?

Best regards and thanks in advance, GR.

> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From wfritz at mindspring.com  Fri Oct  7 05:27:16 2011
From: wfritz at mindspring.com (Fritz Rauschenberg)
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 06:27:16 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  Rover p6 brake advice
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <COL111-W195C6018CD3BBDE1EF5F1D87B40@phx.gbl>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16132E1D@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<COL111-W239A977CF6CADE3B00393387B70@phx.gbl>
	<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960103A781@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <D5DA4421-7E60-41D7-8455-D5CB6E6E422E@mindspring.com>

Needs new master cylinder

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 3, 2011, at 1:33 PM, <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com> wrote:

> 
> Dear friends of the ring, 
> 
>        Hope everything well.
> 
> Please, I need an advice.
> In the last we I used, after some months, my p6 and I had a problem.
> When braking, the brake pedal went down without stopping the car.
> Later it came back up, and only at that moment brakes worked.
> Pushing it I had the sensation of a lack of pressure.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> I parked the car after a short trip, and did not have time to analize
> the situation properly.
> 
> In my opinion it could be air in the pipes, or, more probably, a hole in
> a pipe, in the brake pump or in a seal.
> 
> What should I look for?
> 
> Best regards and thanks in advance, GR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> *************************************
> Want to post photos?
> Go here: http://photobucket.com/
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 


From bsaunders at firstva.com  Sat Oct  8 18:20:49 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2011 19:20:49 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under
	(
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698FA@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <mailman.26.1256856535.12616.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698FA@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <C30FD0FFD925499E99F4AB8369E91987@SD1>

Dennis,

The chap with the 1935 Rover is Ben Swecker here in Virginia near DC at
SWECKEBD at pwcs.edu and Grant Francis is at Grant Francis down under is at
gyfrancis at adam.com.au. 
Where are you located?

Ben

This is another email because the original was held up for some reason.

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Dennis Gallacher
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:12 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under (

Tell him to contact ' http://www.xsbagsandboxes.com.au/  ' I've used
them many times to get car bits over to UK for refurbishment, super nice
people and good back up if something goes wrong.

In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher



_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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02:34:00



From den at aachenkennels.com  Sat Oct  8 18:36:28 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 07:36:28 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] FW:
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D8F2@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hi Chaps,

 

Please have a read of the email below see if you can help.

Den. 

 

From: Dennis Gallacher 
Sent: Sunday, 9 October 2011 7:29 AM
Subject: 

 

Good Morning all,

If like me you are a fan of old classic cars or cars that fit into that
bracket but are not that old then please take a moment of your time and
help us preserve the British motoring past. If you live in the UK and
you think classic cars are worth preserving then please go to this link
and sign. Once you have done that then please pass to all those you have
connections to, the more the better.  I dont live there but I'm still
going to sign in the hope that it may reflect on the government in Oz.
One can live in vain hope...

 

 

Den. G.

 

http://epetitions.direct.gov.uk/petitions/183

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From den at aachenkennels.com  Sun Oct  9 18:02:14 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 07:02:14 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under(
References: <mailman.26.1256856535.12616.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698FA@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<C30FD0FFD925499E99F4AB8369E91987@SD1>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D8FD@Server.adoptsec.local>

Good Morning Ben,
I'll get onto Grant later today ask for his number and give him a call.

I'm in Perth West Australia, if you want to check it on line my  actual
address is 3 Battersea Rd Canning Vale. If you use Near Maps you can see
some of my cars.

Den.


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Ben Saunders
Sent: Sunday, 9 October 2011 7:21 AM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down
Under(


Dennis,

The chap with the 1935 Rover is Ben Swecker here in Virginia near DC at
SWECKEBD at pwcs.edu and Grant Francis is at Grant Francis down under is at
gyfrancis at adam.com.au. 
Where are you located?

Ben

This is another email because the original was held up for some reason.



From britishrover at gmail.com  Mon Oct 10 08:25:09 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:25:09 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>

are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...


From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Oct 10 10:35:12 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 13:35:12 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
 within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL111-W90C9B7273554ADE13F5A287FD0@phx.gbl>


Hi British Rover
                     Yes we are all over the world and in contact with just about ever Rover model ever made. Its a great group of very friendly and helpful people. I don't know how many SD1's are out there but there are two for sale on the Rover Club of Canada web.
                        Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:25:09 -0400
> From: britishrover at gmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
> 
> 
> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From den at aachenkennels.com  Mon Oct 10 17:55:28 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:55:28 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D921@Server.adoptsec.local>

I have two, one on the road the other for parts. I live in Perth wet
Australia.
Den.

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of British Rover
Sent: Monday, 10 October 2011 9:25 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/






From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Oct 10 17:53:17 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 20:53:17 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
Message-ID: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>


Hi Folks
          The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe a ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have had similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100 1961.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
 		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Mon Oct 10 18:44:06 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>

I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run too
lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than to
have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack even
faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a steel
header.
Cheers
Ben Saunders
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat



Hi Folks
          The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe a
ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have had
similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
1961.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
 		 	   		  
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From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Mon Oct 10 18:51:58 2011
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:51:58 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <251797tvjm4sdipqnnlc0srd0tfor3cklv@4ax.com>

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:25:09 -0400, you wrote:

>
>are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>much reach all worldly locations?.

I have one, or an SE2 anyway. Off the road at the moment pending a
strip down as a club racer and putting on concessional club
registration once it is 30 years old. 

Cheers,

Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster 
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/


From den at aachenkennels.com  Mon Oct 10 19:34:45 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:34:45 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D928@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hi Ben,
Go for the ceramic coating. Cost a bit more but the look and finish more
than makes up for it. 

You dont say if the excess heat is causing any other problems. Living
down here in Perth West Oz, where we have to contend with the extreme
heat of summer, no matter what the heat problem is or if the temp gauge
shows high or not out comes the Rad. I then give it a check and give it
a good flush. I never do it in the car as I found that never does that
good a job plus I get to check all the hose and clips at the same time.
My advice, give the engine and rad a service and flush out then have a
look at ceramic coating.

Hope this helps.
Den.

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Tuesday, 11 October 2011 6:53 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat



Hi Folks
          The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or
maybe a ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that
may have had similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover
is a P4-100 1961.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
 		 	   		  
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From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Oct 10 19:13:19 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:13:19 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D928@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>,
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D928@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <COL111-W5321F60473181F5F95A1CF87E20@phx.gbl>


Hi Dennis
              don't have an overheating problem the engine runs fine and the temp gauge is always steady, My car has aircon fitted and is fitted with an electric fan plus the regular fan. I just feel the temp in the engine bay is hot, don't have the original glass washer bottle so used a small plastic one for a while but it began to melt!!!too close to the manifold,  I though if full of washer fluid it should have been okay? I think ceramic coating is also the way to go. Thanks for the info
                            Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:34:45 +0800
> From: den at aachenkennels.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> Go for the ceramic coating. Cost a bit more but the look and finish more
> than makes up for it. 
> 
> You dont say if the excess heat is causing any other problems. Living
> down here in Perth West Oz, where we have to contend with the extreme
> heat of summer, no matter what the heat problem is or if the temp gauge
> shows high or not out comes the Rad. I then give it a check and give it
> a good flush. I never do it in the car as I found that never does that
> good a job plus I get to check all the hose and clips at the same time.
> My advice, give the engine and rad a service and flush out then have a
> look at ceramic coating.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> Den.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, 11 October 2011 6:53 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or
> maybe a ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that
> may have had similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover
> is a P4-100 1961.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
> 11010/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
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From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Oct 10 19:15:22 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:15:22 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben
        Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
                                   Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run too
> lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than to
> have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack even
> faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a steel
> header.
> Cheers
> Ben Saunders
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe a
> ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have had
> similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
> 1961.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
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> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
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From gyfrancis at adam.com.au  Mon Oct 10 20:18:42 2011
From: gyfrancis at adam.com.au (Grant Francis)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 11:48:42 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W5321F60473181F5F95A1CF87E20@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>,
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D928@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<COL111-W5321F60473181F5F95A1CF87E20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4E939972.6010307@adam.com.au>

Hi Ben,

Not specifically Rove related I suppose.

With all my years with Jaguar (1968 to now) and the 6 cylinder and the 
V12 have a stainless steel heatshield covering the exhaust manifold. 
Looks nice hahaha, rattles if not secured correctly. However very 
effective in reducing "radiated heat".

I ran my V12 for a short time with the RH shield removed, and the "heat 
rise" under the bonnet was significant????. Refitted it 2 days later, 
and that was in winter. A noticable decrease in radiated heat.

The early Jags had ceramic coatings, no heat shield, looked NICE, but 
did not last very long in the big scheme of things, and I reckon that 
costs (British Leyland) led to the stainless shields. I am not too 
familiar with the Rover set up, but I reckon a stainless cover/shield 
could be fabricated/modified to suit the manifold set up, and would work 
well.

Both my V12's have similar "smaller" stainless shields protecting the 
steering rack boots, that have an exhaust pipe within 1" of them, and 
that is more than sufficient to deflect the heat away from rubber boots, 
and the rack mounts themselves. The starter motor on the RH side (up 
under the RH exhaust manifold) also has a stainless cover, with material 
attached for heat protection.

Under bonnet temps of the V12 can get scary, especially in Adelade Sth 
Stralia summers, much like Den in Perth.

Just my thoughts.

Grant Francis

On 11/10/2011 10:43 AM, Frederick Ben Rodgers wrote:
>
> Hi Dennis
>                don't have an overheating problem the engine runs fine and the temp gauge is always steady, My car has aircon fitted and is fitted with an electric fan plus the regular fan. I just feel the temp in the engine bay is hot, don't have the original glass washer bottle so used a small plastic one for a while but it began to melt!!!too close to the manifold,  I though if full of washer fluid it should have been okay? I think ceramic coating is also the way to go. Thanks for the info
>                              Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My  Books Lily&  Me,   and The Royal Navy&  Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:34:45 +0800
>> From: den at aachenkennels.com
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
>>
>>
>> Hi Ben,
>> Go for the ceramic coating. Cost a bit more but the look and finish more
>> than makes up for it.
>>
>> You dont say if the excess heat is causing any other problems. Living
>> down here in Perth West Oz, where we have to contend with the extreme
>> heat of summer, no matter what the heat problem is or if the temp gauge
>> shows high or not out comes the Rad. I then give it a check and give it
>> a good flush. I never do it in the car as I found that never does that
>> good a job plus I get to check all the hose and clips at the same time.
>> My advice, give the engine and rad a service and flush out then have a
>> look at ceramic coating.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>> Den.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>> On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
>> Sent: Tuesday, 11 October 2011 6:53 AM
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Folks
>>            The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
>> comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or
>> maybe a ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that
>> may have had similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover
>> is a P4-100 1961.
>> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>>
>> *************
>> My  Books Lily&  Me,   and The Royal Navy&  Me,  are now available as
>> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
>> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
>> Royal Navy?
>> then
>> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>>   		 	   		
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
>> 11010/b11158dd/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>   		 	   		
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>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1522/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11


From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 11 00:07:26 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 05:07:26 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W394AD695E931EEFB77ABE2B8E20@phx.gbl>


You shouldn't have a problem since P4's have massive radiators and generous space around the block for air to flow.  P4's had a small aluminium heat shield attached to the cabin heater pipe above the manifold to take heat away from the distributor - but that is it.  In the UK in the day, it was not uncommon to see the radiator grill on a P4 partially blanked off in winter to get the engine hot.  My '55 90 never got overheated in many African summers, but struggles in NZ with carb icing in winter - go figure!
P4 cylinderheads [being aluminum alloy] are famous for corroding at their water passages where they meet the block.  This is especially true if ran for many years on tap water and low-quality [or no] anticorrosive anti-freeze / Aquaclear treatment.  A badly corroded head will have its small water holes completely clagged up.  Just a heads up though.
However my P5 Mk1 ran very hot in Africa in summer - until I pulled the core plugs and got about half a bucket of crud out of the water jacket.  This muck builds up at the rear the block where water circulation is slowest.  Simply putting a hose into thermostat aperture won't do anything.  Maybe put this on the to-do list [together with a professional radiator flush / recore?] if it's not been done previously.  Core plug replacement is an easy job and you also have the security of knowing that one of these plugs isn't simply a membrane of rust.
The thermosat and radiator cap could also be worth checking.  Pop the therm in a pan of water on the stove and bring it to the boil - you will see if it's opening OK.  P4 rad caps can be troublesome since they're a standard size and someone previously may have installed one that fit 'off the shelf' instead of getting one with the right pressure and sealing ring.
Serious overheating will be evident from the temp gauge [at or off the clock] and when switched off, the engine will bubble and groan - maybe dumping water out the vent pipe.

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 20:53:17 -0200
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe a ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have had similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100 1961.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111010/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Tue Oct 11 09:32:26 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:32:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>

Hi Ben,

These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and cracking
the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may have
had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people ask
me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now it
has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another manifold
here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold glowing
red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens to
the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum shield
around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be a
problem as well. 

Ben Saunders

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat



Hi Ben
        Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the
reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
                                   Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run
too
> lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than
to
> have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack even
> faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a steel
> header.
> Cheers
> Ben Saunders
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe
a
> ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have
had
> similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
> 1961.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
02:34:00



From irishrover1 at live.com  Tue Oct 11 11:12:38 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:12:38 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>,
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>,
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W6580CB4D27A0645E5C85DB87E20@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben
        I actually changed the manifold on this car a few years ago before I owned it. It had had exhaust wrapping before this but was removed when I got to it, the manifold was cracked in the middle. What got me started in this direction was the type of exhaust wrap provided by - www.agriemach.com - They have some interesting claims about their product. I don't drive the Rover in the winter its always tucked away before the snow flies. Also I have no overheating problems everything works fine, radiator has been cleaned and also electric fan fitted for aircon. Just trying to reduce the heat in the engine bay.
                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:32:26 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and cracking
> the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may have
> had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people ask
> me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now it
> has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another manifold
> here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
> also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold glowing
> red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens to
> the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum shield
> around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be a
> problem as well. 
> 
> Ben Saunders
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>         Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the
> reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
>                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run
> too
> > lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than
> to
> > have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack even
> > faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a steel
> > header.
> > Cheers
> > Ben Saunders
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> >           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> > comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe
> a
> > ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have
> had
> > similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
> > 1961.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> > 02:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 0/43355ab0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 11 12:13:56 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 17:13:56 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>,
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>,
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W4C3D2E04C91B91E7DF1CDB8E20@phx.gbl>


Yes - No 6 exhaust valve will burn fairly readily.  I put it down to gentle water circulation at the back of the block, exacerbated by a partially blocked water jacket and an over-enthusiastic approach to carb leaning.  The valves themselves are quite small relative to the engine's size - so heat dissipation is an inherent factor too.

> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:32:26 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and cracking
> the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may have
> had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people ask
> me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now it
> has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another manifold
> here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
> also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold glowing
> red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens to
> the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum shield
> around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be a
> problem as well. 
> 
> Ben Saunders
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>         Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the
> reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
>                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run
> too
> > lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than
> to
> > have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack even
> > faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a steel
> > header.
> > Cheers
> > Ben Saunders
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> >           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> > comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe
> a
> > ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have
> had
> > similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
> > 1961.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> > 02:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 0/43355ab0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Tue Oct 11 13:38:55 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:38:55 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W6580CB4D27A0645E5C85DB87E20@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>,
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>,
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
	<COL111-W6580CB4D27A0645E5C85DB87E20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <12272EB2D83A46B3AE79F096E161F760@SD1>

Hi Ben,

I realize that the engine is not running hot but the exhaust flame is. That
is what caused the first manifold to crack. They all seem to crack in the
same place (the middle) which tells me that it is a flame issue. Try to
richen the fuel mixture a bit and see if that helps. By the way do you know
of where I can find a 1970 3500S drive shaft in the US?

Cheers Ben

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 12:13 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat



Hi Ben
        I actually changed the manifold on this car a few years ago before I
owned it. It had had exhaust wrapping before this but was removed when I got
to it, the manifold was cracked in the middle. What got me started in this
direction was the type of exhaust wrap provided by - www.agriemach.com -
They have some interesting claims about their product. I don't drive the
Rover in the winter its always tucked away before the snow flies. Also I
have no overheating problems everything works fine, radiator has been
cleaned and also electric fan fitted for aircon. Just trying to reduce the
heat in the engine bay.
                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:32:26 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and cracking
> the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may have
> had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people
ask
> me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now
it
> has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another manifold
> here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
> also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold
glowing
> red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens to
> the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum
shield
> around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be a
> problem as well. 
> 
> Ben Saunders
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>         Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the
> reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
>                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run
> too
> > lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than
> to
> > have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack
even
> > faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a
steel
> > header.
> > Cheers
> > Ben Saunders
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> >           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> > comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or
maybe
> a
> > ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have
> had
> > similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
> > 1961.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> > 02:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 0/43355ab0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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1/7f628f1b/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
02:34:00



From irishrover1 at live.com  Tue Oct 11 18:09:35 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 21:09:35 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <12272EB2D83A46B3AE79F096E161F760@SD1>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>,
	, , <21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>, ,
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>, ,
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>,
	<COL111-W6580CB4D27A0645E5C85DB87E20@phx.gbl>,
	<12272EB2D83A46B3AE79F096E161F760@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W6EDFC43B2F2A595CEA55887E20@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben
        Can't help in the US but I might have a drive shaft here, would need some help with identifying marks measurements features etc as I have a few and not sure which is which, P6 or P6B. Let me know if you can't find one closer to home. No charge just the shipping.
                  Cheers Ben

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:38:55 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> I realize that the engine is not running hot but the exhaust flame is. That
> is what caused the first manifold to crack. They all seem to crack in the
> same place (the middle) which tells me that it is a flame issue. Try to
> richen the fuel mixture a bit and see if that helps. By the way do you know
> of where I can find a 1970 3500S drive shaft in the US?
> 
> Cheers Ben
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 12:13 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>         I actually changed the manifold on this car a few years ago before I
> owned it. It had had exhaust wrapping before this but was removed when I got
> to it, the manifold was cracked in the middle. What got me started in this
> direction was the type of exhaust wrap provided by - www.agriemach.com -
> They have some interesting claims about their product. I don't drive the
> Rover in the winter its always tucked away before the snow flies. Also I
> have no overheating problems everything works fine, radiator has been
> cleaned and also electric fan fitted for aircon. Just trying to reduce the
> heat in the engine bay.
>                                     Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:32:26 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Ben,
> > 
> > These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and cracking
> > the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may have
> > had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people
> ask
> > me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now
> it
> > has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another manifold
> > here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
> > also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold
> glowing
> > red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens to
> > the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum
> shield
> > around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be a
> > problem as well. 
> > 
> > Ben Saunders
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Ben
> >         Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the
> > reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
> >                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > > 
> > > 
> > > I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run
> > too
> > > lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than
> > to
> > > have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack
> even
> > > faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a
> steel
> > > header.
> > > Cheers
> > > Ben Saunders
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Folks
> > >           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
> > > comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or
> maybe
> > a
> > > ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have
> > had
> > > similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
> > > 1961.
> > > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > 
> > > *************
> > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > > Royal Navy?
> > > then
> > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > >
> >
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > > 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> > > 
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> > > 02:34:00
> > > 
> > > 
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > 0/43355ab0/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> > 02:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 1/7f628f1b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Tue Oct 11 21:05:49 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geffandjulie@comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 03:05:49 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <12272EB2D83A46B3AE79F096E161F760@SD1>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
	<COL111-W6580CB4D27A0645E5C85DB87E20@phx.gbl>
	<12272EB2D83A46B3AE79F096E161F760@SD1>
Message-ID: <5ED27493-98ED-4791-9BC8-43B96E5FFB18@comcast.net>

I have a spare 3500s driveshaft in Portland OR. I think... I know I have a spare diff...I'm home from a long European trip Thurs and can check. Email me offline geffandjulie at comcast.net.

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W McCarthy MD MBA
5037993809
Sent from my iPad

On Oct 11, 2011, at 19:38, "Ben Saunders" <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:

> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> I realize that the engine is not running hot but the exhaust flame is. That
> is what caused the first manifold to crack. They all seem to crack in the
> same place (the middle) which tells me that it is a flame issue. Try to
> richen the fuel mixture a bit and see if that helps. By the way do you know
> of where I can find a 1970 3500S drive shaft in the US?
> 
> Cheers Ben
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 12:13 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>        I actually changed the manifold on this car a few years ago before I
> owned it. It had had exhaust wrapping before this but was removed when I got
> to it, the manifold was cracked in the middle. What got me started in this
> direction was the type of exhaust wrap provided by - www.agriemach.com -
> They have some interesting claims about their product. I don't drive the
> Rover in the winter its always tucked away before the snow flies. Also I
> have no overheating problems everything works fine, radiator has been
> cleaned and also electric fan fitted for aircon. Just trying to reduce the
> heat in the engine bay.
>                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 


From gyfrancis at adam.com.au  Wed Oct 12 05:29:19 2011
From: gyfrancis at adam.com.au (Grant Francis)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 20:59:19 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>
Message-ID: <4E956BFF.10709@adam.com.au>

Ben,

I am with you on the "lean burn" cracking manifolds.

As you, and others know, I am Jaguar, still British.

My 1996 XJ6 has the 3.2 ltr engine, and it is well documented that they 
crack exhaust manifolds, mainly the supercharged cars, but enough of the 
NA engines to be noted.

Much discussion, and some serious engine management diagnosis, has 
deemed that the humble fuel filter is the prime cause. Strange, I know, 
but even with modern engine management systems, the much forgotten fuel 
filte ris the culprit.

A secondary find was a restricted exhaust system. My V12 had that, as 
hotter than "normal" engine temps was noted, and dropped significantly 
with a simple muffler replacement, 4 of them.

I know these Rovers are carby fed, but lean running as you say is deadly 
for many items.

Grant Francis



On 12/10/2011 1:02 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hi Ben,
>
> These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and cracking
> the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may have
> had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people ask
> me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now it
> has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another manifold
> here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
> also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold glowing
> red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens to
> the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum shield
> around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be a
> problem as well.
>
> Ben Saunders
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
>
>
>
> Hi Ben
>          Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that the
> reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
>                                     Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My  Books Lily&  Me,   and The Royal Navy&  Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
>>
>>
>> I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to run
> too
>> lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich than
> to
>> have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack even
>> faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a steel
>> header.
>> Cheers
>> Ben Saunders
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
>> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Folks
>>            The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the heat
>> comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or maybe
> a
>> ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may have
> had
>> similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a P4-100
>> 1961.
>> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>>
>> *************
>> My  Books Lily&  Me,   and The Royal Navy&  Me,  are now available as
>> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
>> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
>> Royal Navy?
>> then
>> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>>   		 	   		
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>>
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
>> 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
>> 02:34:00
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>   		 	   		
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 0/43355ab0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1522/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11


From gjkzscruggs at verizon.net  Wed Oct 12 06:30:22 2011
From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net (Scruggs Family)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:30:22 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>

Regarding the topic of reducing radiated exhaust manifold heat your engine
compartment there is good news, bad news and there are alternatives.  

The good news is that while it is true that wrapping a manifold is
apparently effective in reducing radiated heat it is also likely, bad news,
you will reduce the life of the manifold. The Audi quattro list to which I
also subscribe is rich with caution on this topic as it seems the extra heat
kept in the manifold also increases the rate at which the metal
deteriorates.  I have no metallurgical explanation for why this happens but
experience is rather consistent... wrap a manifold for short-term, high
performance use but the manifold's life expectancy will be reduced.  Given
that our 2000TC manifolds are pretty poor quality anyway... anyone have one
that has not been re-welded(?)... I don't think I'll chance it with mine.  

Alternatives... ceramic is not the only coating available for manifolds.
I've been following the use of Thermal Barrier Coatings (TBC) since the late
'70s    Back then you had to send your parts off to have them blasted and
coated and baked... time consuming and expensive to be sure.  There is now
on the market a new generation of DIY coatings that apparently work quite
well and can be applied right there in your shop.  I've done this recently
with coatings from Techline Coatings... http://www.techlinecoatings.com/  

Not only can these coatings be applied in a non-industrial environment, some
of them do not require oven baking but cure in use.  I have blasted and
sprayed an aftermarket turbo manifold and downtube for my quattro with a
flat black TBC that will cure from engine heat while in use.  I also have in
hand a silver coating that will go on the intake manifold, several heat
shields and the air intake housing... but this coating will require oven
baking prior to use.  (The plan is to wait for my wife to be out of the
house for the day, turn on all the vent fans in the kitchen, open all the
windows and hope for the best.  No, Dear... I don't smell anything unusual.)

Because I've not finished with this project, reassembled and run the engine
I can't yet assure that all will be as advertised.  But there are
alternatives out there.  

Regarding material deterioration using TBC vice fiberglass wrapping... it
doesn't seem to be a problem.  Apparently the TBC are not as thermally
'rigid' as the wrapping therefore the deterioration problem is not an issue.
The other day I came across some high end exhaust manifolds for new Chrysler
Hemi engines that had TBC on the inside and a ceramic/chrome coating on the
outside.  

Caution... I've found the Techline website to be difficult.  Clearly it was
designed by someone that intimately knows their products and does not make
the effort to clearly explain the specific usages for each of their product
lines.  Take your time and don't hesitate to contact them, I did several
times, and they are patient and responsive. 

When I get my TC running again I'm going to TIG weld all the manifold joints
on the new exhaust manifold, sandblast the manifold and coat it with the
same black Techline coating.  I'm also going to do much the same to the
large bore exhaust system that I've been saving for 15 years.  

Regards,
Gross Scruggs
Annapolis MD, USA







From irishrover1 at live.com  Wed Oct 12 06:15:15 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:15:15 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>
References: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>
Message-ID: <COL111-W538E6FB673839E7A31456887E30@phx.gbl>


Hi Folks
          With so much info re-wrapping manifolds, I'm becoming confused and undecided as to which method to try. I have pasted a part of a email from www.agriemach.com   They provide a Titanium wrap that they claim is good and does not crack manifolds????
With
 regard to your question about the exhaust wrap causing the manifold to 
crack, this can only happen if the exhaust has been welded.  If you have
 a cast iron exhaust, we would recommend the  Titanium wrap, the other 
options are not suitable.
What to do????
           Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:30:22 -0400
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Regarding the topic of reducing radiated exhaust manifold heat your engine
> compartment there is good news, bad news and there are alternatives.  
> 
> The good news is that while it is true that wrapping a manifold is
> apparently effective in reducing radiated heat it is also likely, bad news,
> you will reduce the life of the manifold. The Audi quattro list to which I
> also subscribe is rich with caution on this topic as it seems the extra heat
> kept in the manifold also increases the rate at which the metal
> deteriorates.  I have no metallurgical explanation for why this happens but
> experience is rather consistent... wrap a manifold for short-term, high
> performance use but the manifold's life expectancy will be reduced.  Given
> that our 2000TC manifolds are pretty poor quality anyway... anyone have one
> that has not been re-welded(?)... I don't think I'll chance it with mine.  
> 
> Alternatives... ceramic is not the only coating available for manifolds.
> I've been following the use of Thermal Barrier Coatings (TBC) since the late
> '70s    Back then you had to send your parts off to have them blasted and
> coated and baked... time consuming and expensive to be sure.  There is now
> on the market a new generation of DIY coatings that apparently work quite
> well and can be applied right there in your shop.  I've done this recently
> with coatings from Techline Coatings... http://www.techlinecoatings.com/  
> 
> Not only can these coatings be applied in a non-industrial environment, some
> of them do not require oven baking but cure in use.  I have blasted and
> sprayed an aftermarket turbo manifold and downtube for my quattro with a
> flat black TBC that will cure from engine heat while in use.  I also have in
> hand a silver coating that will go on the intake manifold, several heat
> shields and the air intake housing... but this coating will require oven
> baking prior to use.  (The plan is to wait for my wife to be out of the
> house for the day, turn on all the vent fans in the kitchen, open all the
> windows and hope for the best.  No, Dear... I don't smell anything unusual.)
> 
> Because I've not finished with this project, reassembled and run the engine
> I can't yet assure that all will be as advertised.  But there are
> alternatives out there.  
> 
> Regarding material deterioration using TBC vice fiberglass wrapping... it
> doesn't seem to be a problem.  Apparently the TBC are not as thermally
> 'rigid' as the wrapping therefore the deterioration problem is not an issue.
> The other day I came across some high end exhaust manifolds for new Chrysler
> Hemi engines that had TBC on the inside and a ceramic/chrome coating on the
> outside.  
> 
> Caution... I've found the Techline website to be difficult.  Clearly it was
> designed by someone that intimately knows their products and does not make
> the effort to clearly explain the specific usages for each of their product
> lines.  Take your time and don't hesitate to contact them, I did several
> times, and they are patient and responsive. 
> 
> When I get my TC running again I'm going to TIG weld all the manifold joints
> on the new exhaust manifold, sandblast the manifold and coat it with the
> same black Techline coating.  I'm also going to do much the same to the
> large bore exhaust system that I've been saving for 15 years.  
> 
> Regards,
> Gross Scruggs
> Annapolis MD, USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111012/59b518e8/attachment.html>

From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 12 07:30:02 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:30:02 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W538E6FB673839E7A31456887E30@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>, ,
	<04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>,
	<COL111-W538E6FB673839E7A31456887E30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W131D94DB4DED486B5E989895E30@phx.gbl>


With so much talk about modifying the method of heat transfer has it actually been said what was original with this car ? and if the original is in proper condition what was so wrong with it ? 
 I suspect the best thing for the manifold was to be able to disipate the heat naturally  thus using a heat shield and allow the airflow to properly disperse the heat.
 
 Regards
 
 Dennis Brooks
 

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:15:15 -0200
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
> With so much info re-wrapping manifolds, I'm becoming confused and undecided as to which method to try. I have pasted a part of a email from www.agriemach.com They provide a Titanium wrap that they claim is good and does not crack manifolds????
> With
> regard to your question about the exhaust wrap causing the manifold to 
> crack, this can only happen if the exhaust has been welded. If you have
> a cast iron exhaust, we would recommend the Titanium wrap, the other 
> options are not suitable.
> What to do????
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:30:22 -0400
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > Regarding the topic of reducing radiated exhaust manifold heat your engine
> > compartment there is good news, bad news and there are alternatives. 
> > 
> > The good news is that while it is true that wrapping a manifold is
> > apparently effective in reducing radiated heat it is also likely, bad news,
> > you will reduce the life of the manifold. The Audi quattro list to which I
> > also subscribe is rich with caution on this topic as it seems the extra heat
> > kept in the manifold also increases the rate at which the metal
> > deteriorates. I have no metallurgical explanation for why this happens but
> > experience is rather consistent... wrap a manifold for short-term, high
> > performance use but the manifold's life expectancy will be reduced. Given
> > that our 2000TC manifolds are pretty poor quality anyway... anyone have one
> > that has not been re-welded(?)... I don't think I'll chance it with mine. 
> > 
> > Alternatives... ceramic is not the only coating available for manifolds.
> > I've been following the use of Thermal Barrier Coatings (TBC) since the late
> > '70s Back then you had to send your parts off to have them blasted and
> > coated and baked... time consuming and expensive to be sure. There is now
> > on the market a new generation of DIY coatings that apparently work quite
> > well and can be applied right there in your shop. I've done this recently
> > with coatings from Techline Coatings... http://www.techlinecoatings.com/ 
> > 
> > Not only can these coatings be applied in a non-industrial environment, some
> > of them do not require oven baking but cure in use. I have blasted and
> > sprayed an aftermarket turbo manifold and downtube for my quattro with a
> > flat black TBC that will cure from engine heat while in use. I also have in
> > hand a silver coating that will go on the intake manifold, several heat
> > shields and the air intake housing... but this coating will require oven
> > baking prior to use. (The plan is to wait for my wife to be out of the
> > house for the day, turn on all the vent fans in the kitchen, open all the
> > windows and hope for the best. No, Dear... I don't smell anything unusual.)
> > 
> > Because I've not finished with this project, reassembled and run the engine
> > I can't yet assure that all will be as advertised. But there are
> > alternatives out there. 
> > 
> > Regarding material deterioration using TBC vice fiberglass wrapping... it
> > doesn't seem to be a problem. Apparently the TBC are not as thermally
> > 'rigid' as the wrapping therefore the deterioration problem is not an issue.
> > The other day I came across some high end exhaust manifolds for new Chrysler
> > Hemi engines that had TBC on the inside and a ceramic/chrome coating on the
> > outside. 
> > 
> > Caution... I've found the Techline website to be difficult. Clearly it was
> > designed by someone that intimately knows their products and does not make
> > the effort to clearly explain the specific usages for each of their product
> > lines. Take your time and don't hesitate to contact them, I did several
> > times, and they are patient and responsive. 
> > 
> > When I get my TC running again I'm going to TIG weld all the manifold joints
> > on the new exhaust manifold, sandblast the manifold and coat it with the
> > same black Techline coating. I'm also going to do much the same to the
> > large bore exhaust system that I've been saving for 15 years. 
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Gross Scruggs
> > Annapolis MD, USA
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111012/59b518e8/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 12 09:15:36 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 10:15:36 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W6EDFC43B2F2A595CEA55887E20@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W4406A692A5328BFF027CD787FD0@phx.gbl>, , ,
	<21D621B8A85B411F88F98B6E662D54AD@SD1>, ,
	<COL111-W3408569D3469DC1CE56A8987E20@phx.gbl>, ,
	<892BC4E121ED4893BC9524710DCCF681@SD1>,
	<COL111-W6580CB4D27A0645E5C85DB87E20@phx.gbl>,
	<12272EB2D83A46B3AE79F096E161F760@SD1>
	<COL111-W6EDFC43B2F2A595CEA55887E20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <02464018B44543328C4746AA334EE965@SD1>

Hi Ben,

The drive shaft I need is 37 1/2" long from flange to flange. There is a bit
of play in that dimension since the shaft telescopes but if you have one
that can make the span please let me know and what the shipping will be. I
hope my suggestions on your P4 have been of some help. I have not been
driving mine for some time since it is in need of an engine rebuild. I have
another fresh engine to put in it soon to drive on while I rebuild the
original one. Please send me a photo of your car if you get a chance.

Cheers,
Ben



-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 7:10 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat



Hi Ben
        Can't help in the US but I might have a drive shaft here, would need
some help with identifying marks measurements features etc as I have a few
and not sure which is which, P6 or P6B. Let me know if you can't find one
closer to home. No charge just the shipping.
                  Cheers Ben

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:38:55 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> I realize that the engine is not running hot but the exhaust flame is.
That
> is what caused the first manifold to crack. They all seem to crack in the
> same place (the middle) which tells me that it is a flame issue. Try to
> richen the fuel mixture a bit and see if that helps. By the way do you
know
> of where I can find a 1970 3500S drive shaft in the US?
> 
> Cheers Ben
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 12:13 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>         I actually changed the manifold on this car a few years ago before
I
> owned it. It had had exhaust wrapping before this but was removed when I
got
> to it, the manifold was cracked in the middle. What got me started in this
> direction was the type of exhaust wrap provided by - www.agriemach.com -
> They have some interesting claims about their product. I don't drive the
> Rover in the winter its always tucked away before the snow flies. Also I
> have no overheating problems everything works fine, radiator has been
> cleaned and also electric fan fitted for aircon. Just trying to reduce the
> heat in the engine bay.
>                                     Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 10:32:26 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Ben,
> > 
> > These cars are apparently prone to burning the number 6 valve and
cracking
> > the manifold. My manifold was quite stock when I got the car but may
have
> > had a small crack that was not noticeable. I have had a couple of people
> ask
> > me if the number 6 cylinder had burned the exhaust valve out yet and now
> it
> > has and I attribute that to the running too lean. I have another
manifold
> > here off a third car that has broken in half for the same reason. I have
> > also heard of people lifting the bonnet at night to see the manifold
> glowing
> > red hot. This can only be due to a lean burn. This problem also happens
to
> > the early series 2A Land Rovers. You may also want to put an aluminum
> shield
> > around the washer bottle. Hot washer fluid on a cold wind screen can be
a
> > problem as well. 
> > 
> > Ben Saunders
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 8:15 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Ben
> >         Was your manifold wrapped when you bought the car and is that
the
> > reason it cracked??? what do you think of ceramic coating?
> >                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 19:44:06 -0400
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > > 
> > > 
> > > I had mine to break a part soon after I bought it. Be careful not to
run
> > too
> > > lean. It will cause the manifold to crack. Better to run a bit rich
than
> > to
> > > have to replace the manifold. Heat wrap might just cause it to crack
> even
> > > faster. I would only advise those with 2000TC's to use the wrap on a
> steel
> > > header.
> > > Cheers
> > > Ben Saunders
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:53 PM
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Folks
> > >           The heat in my engine bay seems very high, almost all the
heat
> > > comes from the exhaust manifold. I'm considering using heat wrap or
> maybe
> > a
> > > ceramic coating.  I would be interested to hear of others that may
have
> > had
> > > similar problems and what remedies they have used. My Rover is a
P4-100
> > > 1961.
> > > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > 
> > > *************
> > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS
Ganges,
> > > Royal Navy?
> > > then
> > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > >  		 	   		  
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> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> > >
> >
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > > 0/b11158dd/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> > > 
> > > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date:
10/07/11
> > > 02:34:00
> > > 
> > > 
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
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> >
>
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> > 0/43355ab0/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> > Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> > 02:34:00
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
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> 1/7f628f1b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
02:34:00



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 12 09:59:22 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 10:59:22 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-W131D94DB4DED486B5E989895E30@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>, ,
	<04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>,
	<COL111-W538E6FB673839E7A31456887E30@phx.gbl>
	<BAY145-W131D94DB4DED486B5E989895E30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AFA02A94388147FB8A4B86A4878A0153@SD1>

Rover folks,

We must try to remember that when these cars were produced the fuel industry
was some what different and so was the fuel. The octane ratings have a lot
to do with the internal temperature (flame front) in the engine. If the
flame gets hot enough it will cause the manifold to crack. The best way to
take care of the problem, especially for the TC owners, is to go to a
stainless steel manifold. They can take the heat. 

Grins,

Ben Saunders 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Dennis .
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 8:30 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat



With so much talk about modifying the method of heat transfer has it
actually been said what was original with this car ? and if the original is
in proper condition what was so wrong with it ? 
 I suspect the best thing for the manifold was to be able to disipate the
heat naturally  thus using a heat shield and allow the airflow to properly
disperse the heat.
 
 Regards
 
 Dennis Brooks
 

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:15:15 -0200
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
> With so much info re-wrapping manifolds, I'm becoming confused and
undecided as to which method to try. I have pasted a part of a email from
www.agriemach.com They provide a Titanium wrap that they claim is good and
does not crack manifolds????
> With
> regard to your question about the exhaust wrap causing the manifold to 
> crack, this can only happen if the exhaust has been welded. If you have
> a cast iron exhaust, we would recommend the Titanium wrap, the other 
> options are not suitable.
> What to do????
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books.
Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:30:22 -0400
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > Regarding the topic of reducing radiated exhaust manifold heat your
engine
> > compartment there is good news, bad news and there are alternatives. 
> > 
> > The good news is that while it is true that wrapping a manifold is
> > apparently effective in reducing radiated heat it is also likely, bad
news,
> > you will reduce the life of the manifold. The Audi quattro list to which
I
> > also subscribe is rich with caution on this topic as it seems the extra
heat
> > kept in the manifold also increases the rate at which the metal
> > deteriorates. I have no metallurgical explanation for why this happens
but
> > experience is rather consistent... wrap a manifold for short-term, high
> > performance use but the manifold's life expectancy will be reduced.
Given
> > that our 2000TC manifolds are pretty poor quality anyway... anyone have
one
> > that has not been re-welded(?)... I don't think I'll chance it with
mine. 
> > 
> > Alternatives... ceramic is not the only coating available for manifolds.
> > I've been following the use of Thermal Barrier Coatings (TBC) since the
late
> > '70s Back then you had to send your parts off to have them blasted and
> > coated and baked... time consuming and expensive to be sure. There is
now
> > on the market a new generation of DIY coatings that apparently work
quite
> > well and can be applied right there in your shop. I've done this
recently
> > with coatings from Techline Coatings... http://www.techlinecoatings.com/

> > 
> > Not only can these coatings be applied in a non-industrial environment,
some
> > of them do not require oven baking but cure in use. I have blasted and
> > sprayed an aftermarket turbo manifold and downtube for my quattro with a
> > flat black TBC that will cure from engine heat while in use. I also have
in
> > hand a silver coating that will go on the intake manifold, several heat
> > shields and the air intake housing... but this coating will require oven
> > baking prior to use. (The plan is to wait for my wife to be out of the
> > house for the day, turn on all the vent fans in the kitchen, open all
the
> > windows and hope for the best. No, Dear... I don't smell anything
unusual.)
> > 
> > Because I've not finished with this project, reassembled and run the
engine
> > I can't yet assure that all will be as advertised. But there are
> > alternatives out there. 
> > 
> > Regarding material deterioration using TBC vice fiberglass wrapping...
it
> > doesn't seem to be a problem. Apparently the TBC are not as thermally
> > 'rigid' as the wrapping therefore the deterioration problem is not an
issue.
> > The other day I came across some high end exhaust manifolds for new
Chrysler
> > Hemi engines that had TBC on the inside and a ceramic/chrome coating on
the
> > outside. 
> > 
> > Caution... I've found the Techline website to be difficult. Clearly it
was
> > designed by someone that intimately knows their products and does not
make
> > the effort to clearly explain the specific usages for each of their
product
> > lines. Take your time and don't hesitate to contact them, I did several
> > times, and they are patient and responsive. 
> > 
> > When I get my TC running again I'm going to TIG weld all the manifold
joints
> > on the new exhaust manifold, sandblast the manifold and coat it with the
> > same black Techline coating. I'm also going to do much the same to the
> > large bore exhaust system that I've been saving for 15 years. 
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Gross Scruggs
> > Annapolis MD, USA
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
2/59b518e8/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
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2/8f6691e0/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
02:34:00



From irishrover1 at live.com  Wed Oct 12 09:43:59 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 12:43:59 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <AFA02A94388147FB8A4B86A4878A0153@SD1>
References: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	, , <04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>, ,
	<COL111-W538E6FB673839E7A31456887E30@phx.gbl>,
	<BAY145-W131D94DB4DED486B5E989895E30@phx.gbl>,
	<AFA02A94388147FB8A4B86A4878A0153@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W179EEE998922C4C48DBFDA87E30@phx.gbl>


hi Ben
        Give me your email address, I can't send photos over the Rovernet.
                                   Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 10:59:22 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Rover folks,
> 
> We must try to remember that when these cars were produced the fuel industry
> was some what different and so was the fuel. The octane ratings have a lot
> to do with the internal temperature (flame front) in the engine. If the
> flame gets hot enough it will cause the manifold to crack. The best way to
> take care of the problem, especially for the TC owners, is to go to a
> stainless steel manifold. They can take the heat. 
> 
> Grins,
> 
> Ben Saunders 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Dennis .
> Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 8:30 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> With so much talk about modifying the method of heat transfer has it
> actually been said what was original with this car ? and if the original is
> in proper condition what was so wrong with it ? 
>  I suspect the best thing for the manifold was to be able to disipate the
> heat naturally  thus using a heat shield and allow the airflow to properly
> disperse the heat.
>  
>  Regards
>  
>  Dennis Brooks
>  
> 
> > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:15:15 -0200
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> > With so much info re-wrapping manifolds, I'm becoming confused and
> undecided as to which method to try. I have pasted a part of a email from
> www.agriemach.com They provide a Titanium wrap that they claim is good and
> does not crack manifolds????
> > With
> > regard to your question about the exhaust wrap causing the manifold to 
> > crack, this can only happen if the exhaust has been welded. If you have
> > a cast iron exhaust, we would recommend the Titanium wrap, the other 
> > options are not suitable.
> > What to do????
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books.
> Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:30:22 -0400
> > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Regarding the topic of reducing radiated exhaust manifold heat your
> engine
> > > compartment there is good news, bad news and there are alternatives. 
> > > 
> > > The good news is that while it is true that wrapping a manifold is
> > > apparently effective in reducing radiated heat it is also likely, bad
> news,
> > > you will reduce the life of the manifold. The Audi quattro list to which
> I
> > > also subscribe is rich with caution on this topic as it seems the extra
> heat
> > > kept in the manifold also increases the rate at which the metal
> > > deteriorates. I have no metallurgical explanation for why this happens
> but
> > > experience is rather consistent... wrap a manifold for short-term, high
> > > performance use but the manifold's life expectancy will be reduced.
> Given
> > > that our 2000TC manifolds are pretty poor quality anyway... anyone have
> one
> > > that has not been re-welded(?)... I don't think I'll chance it with
> mine. 
> > > 
> > > Alternatives... ceramic is not the only coating available for manifolds.
> > > I've been following the use of Thermal Barrier Coatings (TBC) since the
> late
> > > '70s Back then you had to send your parts off to have them blasted and
> > > coated and baked... time consuming and expensive to be sure. There is
> now
> > > on the market a new generation of DIY coatings that apparently work
> quite
> > > well and can be applied right there in your shop. I've done this
> recently
> > > with coatings from Techline Coatings... http://www.techlinecoatings.com/
> 
> > > 
> > > Not only can these coatings be applied in a non-industrial environment,
> some
> > > of them do not require oven baking but cure in use. I have blasted and
> > > sprayed an aftermarket turbo manifold and downtube for my quattro with a
> > > flat black TBC that will cure from engine heat while in use. I also have
> in
> > > hand a silver coating that will go on the intake manifold, several heat
> > > shields and the air intake housing... but this coating will require oven
> > > baking prior to use. (The plan is to wait for my wife to be out of the
> > > house for the day, turn on all the vent fans in the kitchen, open all
> the
> > > windows and hope for the best. No, Dear... I don't smell anything
> unusual.)
> > > 
> > > Because I've not finished with this project, reassembled and run the
> engine
> > > I can't yet assure that all will be as advertised. But there are
> > > alternatives out there. 
> > > 
> > > Regarding material deterioration using TBC vice fiberglass wrapping...
> it
> > > doesn't seem to be a problem. Apparently the TBC are not as thermally
> > > 'rigid' as the wrapping therefore the deterioration problem is not an
> issue.
> > > The other day I came across some high end exhaust manifolds for new
> Chrysler
> > > Hemi engines that had TBC on the inside and a ceramic/chrome coating on
> the
> > > outside. 
> > > 
> > > Caution... I've found the Techline website to be difficult. Clearly it
> was
> > > designed by someone that intimately knows their products and does not
> make
> > > the effort to clearly explain the specific usages for each of their
> product
> > > lines. Take your time and don't hesitate to contact them, I did several
> > > times, and they are patient and responsive. 
> > > 
> > > When I get my TC running again I'm going to TIG weld all the manifold
> joints
> > > on the new exhaust manifold, sandblast the manifold and coat it with the
> > > same black Techline coating. I'm also going to do much the same to the
> > > large bore exhaust system that I've been saving for 15 years. 
> > > 
> > > Regards,
> > > Gross Scruggs
> > > Annapolis MD, USA
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> > 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 2/59b518e8/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 2/8f6691e0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 12 13:53:49 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 18:53:49 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
In-Reply-To: <AFA02A94388147FB8A4B86A4878A0153@SD1>
References: <mailman.139.1318415371.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	, , <04c601cc88d2$54bca2a0$fe35e7e0$@net>, ,
	<COL111-W538E6FB673839E7A31456887E30@phx.gbl>,
	<BAY145-W131D94DB4DED486B5E989895E30@phx.gbl>,
	<AFA02A94388147FB8A4B86A4878A0153@SD1>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W44FD8689B2A054E06E914B8E30@phx.gbl>


P4's with F-head engines will cheerfully run on low octane fuel [e.g. 87 or lower] since that is what was what was sold at the pump in the UK and abroad at the time.
A fabricated ss exhaust manifold is an excellent option. The original P4 item is not exactly designed for gasflow efficiency. 

> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 10:59:22 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> Rover folks,
> 
> We must try to remember that when these cars were produced the fuel industry
> was some what different and so was the fuel. The octane ratings have a lot
> to do with the internal temperature (flame front) in the engine. If the
> flame gets hot enough it will cause the manifold to crack. The best way to
> take care of the problem, especially for the TC owners, is to go to a
> stainless steel manifold. They can take the heat. 
> 
> Grins,
> 
> Ben Saunders 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Dennis .
> Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 8:30 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> 
> 
> 
> With so much talk about modifying the method of heat transfer has it
> actually been said what was original with this car ? and if the original is
> in proper condition what was so wrong with it ? 
>  I suspect the best thing for the manifold was to be able to disipate the
> heat naturally  thus using a heat shield and allow the airflow to properly
> disperse the heat.
>  
>  Regards
>  
>  Dennis Brooks
>  
> 
> > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 09:15:15 -0200
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> > With so much info re-wrapping manifolds, I'm becoming confused and
> undecided as to which method to try. I have pasted a part of a email from
> www.agriemach.com They provide a Titanium wrap that they claim is good and
> does not crack manifolds????
> > With
> > regard to your question about the exhaust wrap causing the manifold to 
> > crack, this can only happen if the exhaust has been welded. If you have
> > a cast iron exhaust, we would recommend the Titanium wrap, the other 
> > options are not suitable.
> > What to do????
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books.
> Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 07:30:22 -0400
> > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Manifold heat
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Regarding the topic of reducing radiated exhaust manifold heat your
> engine
> > > compartment there is good news, bad news and there are alternatives. 
> > > 
> > > The good news is that while it is true that wrapping a manifold is
> > > apparently effective in reducing radiated heat it is also likely, bad
> news,
> > > you will reduce the life of the manifold. The Audi quattro list to which
> I
> > > also subscribe is rich with caution on this topic as it seems the extra
> heat
> > > kept in the manifold also increases the rate at which the metal
> > > deteriorates. I have no metallurgical explanation for why this happens
> but
> > > experience is rather consistent... wrap a manifold for short-term, high
> > > performance use but the manifold's life expectancy will be reduced.
> Given
> > > that our 2000TC manifolds are pretty poor quality anyway... anyone have
> one
> > > that has not been re-welded(?)... I don't think I'll chance it with
> mine. 
> > > 
> > > Alternatives... ceramic is not the only coating available for manifolds.
> > > I've been following the use of Thermal Barrier Coatings (TBC) since the
> late
> > > '70s Back then you had to send your parts off to have them blasted and
> > > coated and baked... time consuming and expensive to be sure. There is
> now
> > > on the market a new generation of DIY coatings that apparently work
> quite
> > > well and can be applied right there in your shop. I've done this
> recently
> > > with coatings from Techline Coatings... http://www.techlinecoatings.com/
> 
> > > 
> > > Not only can these coatings be applied in a non-industrial environment,
> some
> > > of them do not require oven baking but cure in use. I have blasted and
> > > sprayed an aftermarket turbo manifold and downtube for my quattro with a
> > > flat black TBC that will cure from engine heat while in use. I also have
> in
> > > hand a silver coating that will go on the intake manifold, several heat
> > > shields and the air intake housing... but this coating will require oven
> > > baking prior to use. (The plan is to wait for my wife to be out of the
> > > house for the day, turn on all the vent fans in the kitchen, open all
> the
> > > windows and hope for the best. No, Dear... I don't smell anything
> unusual.)
> > > 
> > > Because I've not finished with this project, reassembled and run the
> engine
> > > I can't yet assure that all will be as advertised. But there are
> > > alternatives out there. 
> > > 
> > > Regarding material deterioration using TBC vice fiberglass wrapping...
> it
> > > doesn't seem to be a problem. Apparently the TBC are not as thermally
> > > 'rigid' as the wrapping therefore the deterioration problem is not an
> issue.
> > > The other day I came across some high end exhaust manifolds for new
> Chrysler
> > > Hemi engines that had TBC on the inside and a ceramic/chrome coating on
> the
> > > outside. 
> > > 
> > > Caution... I've found the Techline website to be difficult. Clearly it
> was
> > > designed by someone that intimately knows their products and does not
> make
> > > the effort to clearly explain the specific usages for each of their
> product
> > > lines. Take your time and don't hesitate to contact them, I did several
> > > times, and they are patient and responsive. 
> > > 
> > > When I get my TC running again I'm going to TIG weld all the manifold
> joints
> > > on the new exhaust manifold, sandblast the manifold and coat it with the
> > > same black Techline coating. I'm also going to do much the same to the
> > > large bore exhaust system that I've been saving for 15 years. 
> > > 
> > > Regards,
> > > Gross Scruggs
> > > Annapolis MD, USA
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> > 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 2/59b518e8/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 2/8f6691e0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.914 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3943 - Release Date: 10/07/11
> 02:34:00
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From roverman2 at verizon.net  Wed Oct 12 21:01:45 2011
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 22:01:45 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1
Message-ID: <EDEE4AAC-16C4-4F91-888B-1D7EA1CC98E2@verizon.net>

Hi Folks,
We run 2 SD1's pretty much as everyday cars. Sadly there are very few  
around in the NE US. Build quality wasn't good, but the car is well  
designed. The 3500SD1 is a worthy successor to the P6B with many  
improvements. Parts are plentiful, though some fuel injection  
components are getting harder to get.

Dermot Harvey


From robertime at cavtel.net  Fri Oct 14 13:56:49 2011
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 14:56:49 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi British (Dave),

Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.  Most
participants own P6's, many have older models.

As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.

1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles

1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
past summer, 46K)

The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier this
year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
NEC/Birmingham show next month).

There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
2009.

Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a bit
less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
them on the road in this country.

Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they will
always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
 Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market shift
towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism of
early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined Rover's
once-fine reputation.

With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's outstanding
"issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar in
shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're cursed
by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
trouble.

Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?

Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
(fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.), they're
very nice cars.

When they can be made to run reliably, that is.

Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting mice,
they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's had
difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
patience and persistence.

Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master cylinders,
unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
and requires further modifications.

But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!

Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
there looking for a good home!

Robert Heimerl
Arlington, VA

On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover <britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:

>
> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
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From irishrover1 at live.com  Fri Oct 14 14:37:07 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 17:37:07 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
 within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL111-W42BC6EA0996DCA8F6A9EF987E10@phx.gbl>


hi SD1's
           I have owned a large variety of post war Rovers including a 1948 P-3, 1950 P-4 Cyclops, several other P'4's, a Mk 1A and a Mk 3 P5, several P6's and 2 P6B's but only one 1980 SD1. They were all good cars, however, I have to say the SD1 was the least reliable.it was mainly due to the electronic ignition. The original owner had trouble with the ignition from the start,  whilst on a trip, he drove from New Brunswick to Toronto where it broke down. The BL Dealership decided it was the ignition and replaced it with a new unit, he drove on to New York and same problem again the local NY dealer put the old ignition back in and the car worked fine. I bought the car when it was just four years old with about 30 thou on the clock, naturally the seller didn't tell me about the ignition problems. I wasn't long in finding out, the car worked beautifully then out of the blue stopped. I must have changed the ignition unit several times and each time the car started. Once in Moncton NB we jumped in the car to drive home and nothing, changed the ignition still nothing??Decided to stay over night and have car towed to local garage in morning. Next morning tow truck arrived, the driver sat in the SD1 turned the key and it started. Shortly after that I sold it!!! It was a beautiful car to look at and to drive, very comfortable fast and not heavy on fuel, but so unreliable I became afraid to drive anywhere far from home. I think today with the aid of so many Rovernet fans and experts I might be tempted to have another SD1, but they are scarce in this neck of the woods, maybe just as well!!! Oh forgot to mention I did have one pre-war Rover a 1938 12HP back in 1960, they were quite expensive back then.
                            Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 14:56:49 -0400
> From: robertime at cavtel.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
> 
> 
> Hi British (Dave),
> 
> Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.  Most
> participants own P6's, many have older models.
> 
> As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
> complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.
> 
> 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles
> 
> 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
> past summer, 46K)
> 
> The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier this
> year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
> historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
> NEC/Birmingham show next month).
> 
> There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
> there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
> 2009.
> 
> Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
> origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a bit
> less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
> them on the road in this country.
> 
> Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
> they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
> of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they will
> always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
> unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
> taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
>  Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
> years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market shift
> towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism of
> early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
> produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
> consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined Rover's
> once-fine reputation.
> 
> With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's outstanding
> "issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
> American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar in
> shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're cursed
> by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
> maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
> while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
> trouble.
> 
> Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
> rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?
> 
> Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
> appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
> style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
> well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
> (fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.), they're
> very nice cars.
> 
> When they can be made to run reliably, that is.
> 
> Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
> for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting mice,
> they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
> due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's had
> difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
> especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
> crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
> experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
> steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
> cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
> patience and persistence.
> 
> Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master cylinders,
> unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
> widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
> and requires further modifications.
> 
> But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!
> 
> Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
> one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
> there looking for a good home!
> 
> Robert Heimerl
> Arlington, VA
> 
> On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover <britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:
> 
> >
> > are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> > much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
> >
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Fri Oct 14 16:52:46 2011
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 08:22:46 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E98AF2E.2090602@ozemail.com.au>

Hi
I have to concur with previous comments.

I have to add one other issue that bugs the engine .... the dreaded 
BLACK SLUDGE.
Since these engines seem to run and run forever, many owners neglected 
oil changes and sludge buildup became a problem.

Here in Oz we are blessed with many more units than you folks in the U.S.
I used to own an SD1 Vanden Plas.
I had to part with it to aquire a P6B.

Issues I had were virtually eliminated in one foul swoop by fitting a 
Haltech programmable electronic engine management system in 1990.
It wasn't all that expensive either, but what it did replace was:-

* Electronic ignition box
* Fuel injector ballast box
* Air intake metering (flapper) valve.
* Fuel pump control relays

However, the Haltech of today has evolved into a very different beast to 
my early unit.

You will find a wealth of engine information here
http://www.v8engines.com

I also fitted a Rangie 4.6L engine when the original got a tad tired at 
280,000km.

HTH

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

> On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover<britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>
> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...


From kkinard at att.net  Fri Oct 14 17:32:01 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 17:32:01 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E98B861.4090707@att.net>

Hi Dave,
I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but 
neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the 
vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground, 
though I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other 
Rovers P4, P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps 
because of my long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy emissions 
laws in Texas, the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease 
with which domestic parts can be substituted and the relative simplicity 
of the design. I also do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the 
commonalities between them and the SD1 very convenient.

Roverly,
Kent K.
>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>
>>      
>
>    



From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Fri Oct 14 18:39:36 2011
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (jaguru at bellsouth.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 19:39:36 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
Message-ID: <15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>

I had an SD1 that used to cut out after driving for a while, though it 
seemed to be a fuel problem, not ignition. (I had converted to a Holley and 
used a different fuel pump, but used the basic fuel pump wiring circuit). 
Another SD1 owner told me the fuel pump relay behind the glove box tends to 
get hot and fail , until it cools. I am not sure, but that may be of 
interest to someone. James Dean
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our 
networking....


>
> Hi Dave,
> I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but 
> neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the 
> vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground, though 
> I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other Rovers P4, 
> P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps because of my 
> long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy emissions laws in Texas, 
> the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease with which domestic 
> parts can be substituted and the relative simplicity of the design. I also 
> do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the commonalities between them 
> and the SD1 very convenient.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Fri Oct 14 19:20:29 2011
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 11:20:29 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
	<15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <iakh97t0ssckd4keid7tkuufu94a25799l@4ax.com>

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 19:39:36 -0400, you wrote:

>

>Another SD1 owner told me the fuel pump relay behind the glove box tends to 
>get hot and fail , until it cools. I am not sure, but that may be of 
>interest to someone. 

Same with series 1 800s. Flaky solder on relays, gets warm, board
moves slightly and connection fails. When cools down everything is
returned. 

Resoldering the relays worked wonders.

Cheers,

Peter H


From james.moison at gmail.com  Fri Oct 14 23:56:53 2011
From: james.moison at gmail.com (james moison)
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2011 22:56:53 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
	<15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <CAA7GSQ+BAkh19n1OQPxirLEXK_rNudjauX1_vE9v==G6+mhwtQ@mail.gmail.com>

I was wondering if there is a 5 speed that will match up to the 2000TC or P6
block.....any ideas?

On Fri, Oct 14, 2011 at 5:39 PM, <jaguru at bellsouth.net> wrote:

>
> I had an SD1 that used to cut out after driving for a while, though it
> seemed to be a fuel problem, not ignition. (I had converted to a Holley and
> used a different fuel pump, but used the basic fuel pump wiring circuit).
> Another SD1 owner told me the fuel pump relay behind the glove box tends to
> get hot and fail , until it cools. I am not sure, but that may be of
> interest to someone. James Dean
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
> networking....
>
>
>
>
>> Hi Dave,
>> I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but
>> neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the
>> vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground, though I
>> generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other Rovers P4, P5,
>> P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps because of my long
>> experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy emissions laws in Texas, the SD1
>> is still my favorite Rover because of the ease with which domestic parts can
>> be substituted and the relative simplicity of the design. I also do Triumph
>> TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the commonalities between them and the SD1
>> very convenient.
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>>>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ****************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>>
>>
>
> ****************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>
>
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From dmesmg at juno.com  Sat Oct 15 08:19:59 2011
From: dmesmg at juno.com (dmesmg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 13:19:59 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] 5-speed for Rover 2000TC
Message-ID: <20111015.091959.6436.0@webmail57.vgs.untd.com>

Hello James,There was an article that appeared in the UK newsletter for the Rover P6 Owner's Club (circa 2002) that detailed how one enthusiast converted an SD1 5-speed to fit his 2000TC.  I believe the conversion involved an adapter plate.  The article shared the details of what was involved in good detail.  I seem to recall that the non V8 version of the 5-speed was used.  In North America, I think that would be the TR7 version as well. I don't have access to the article right now but can do so in a few days. Thanks,Dan   
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e9988cd97a3bac2388st04vuc
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Sat Oct 15 08:51:33 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 09:51:33 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C82BD8F6B45D4ECF9A977D82D5F77EE3@SD1>

Hello Robert and all other Rover owners,

In all fairness we must take into consideration that Rover, under a new CEO,
was only trying to compete with the rest of the world. They built a totally
new plant from the ground up to be one of the first car manufacturers to use
robotics in their construction. This came at a heavy cost but where would
they have ended up if they had continued producing cars like the P6 built by
hand and very labor intensive. I dare say that the P6 or P7 which did not
reach production would have been their last. Keep in mind that Rover out
lasted all the other general car manufacturers in the UK with a vast fleet
of models. I agree that the SD1 was of a far lower class construction than
the previous models however this was a necessity of survival. They broke
ground in many ways in the mode of construction not only of the unit chassis
but of most of the parts. This was a 1974 Ferrari design that shocked the
world in its style and performance and still very stylish to this day. I
also wonder why it is that DOT US always flip flops on its regulations
especially on the British cars as in the head lights on the XKE and the SD1.
Just look at all the brown out head light covers on the car today. This too
had an impact on the cost and sales of these cars. This if nothing else is
reason enough to keep these cars on the roads. 

Cheers to all,

Ben Saunders

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 2:57 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Hi British (Dave),

Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.  Most
participants own P6's, many have older models.

As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.

1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles

1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
past summer, 46K)

The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier this
year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
NEC/Birmingham show next month).

There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
2009.

Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a bit
less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
them on the road in this country.

Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they will
always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
 Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market shift
towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism of
early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined Rover's
once-fine reputation.

With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's outstanding
"issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar in
shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're cursed
by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
trouble.

Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?

Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
(fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.), they're
very nice cars.

When they can be made to run reliably, that is.

Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting mice,
they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's had
difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
patience and persistence.

Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master cylinders,
unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
and requires further modifications.

But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!

Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
there looking for a good home!

Robert Heimerl
Arlington, VA

On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover
<britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:

>
> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
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**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
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From james.moison at gmail.com  Sat Oct 15 10:26:23 2011
From: james.moison at gmail.com (james moison)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 09:26:23 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] 5-speed for Rover 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <20111015.091959.6436.0@webmail57.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20111015.091959.6436.0@webmail57.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <CAA7GSQJ32P2PKnKgX0L2RcGRK2oXgH7jS+KX8qs2ByYm+oXG0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Interesting.


On Sat, Oct 15, 2011 at 7:19 AM, dmesmg at juno.com <dmesmg at juno.com> wrote:

>
> Hello James,There was an article that appeared in the UK newsletter for the
> Rover P6 Owner's Club (circa 2002) that detailed how one enthusiast
> converted an SD1 5-speed to fit his 2000TC.  I believe the conversion
> involved an adapter plate.  The article shared the details of what was
> involved in good detail.  I seem to recall that the non V8 version of the
> 5-speed was used.  In North America, I think that would be the TR7 version
> as well. I don't have access to the article right now but can do so in a few
> days. Thanks,Dan
> ____________________________________________________________
> Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
> Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e9988cd97a3bac2388st04vuc
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111015/b1f1d1f3/attachment.html
> >
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
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From gjkzscruggs at verizon.net  Sat Oct 15 13:05:46 2011
From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net (Scruggs Family)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 14:05:46 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1318698020.28030.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1318698020.28030.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <015401cc8b65$108a5240$319ef6c0$@net>

Here's an Australian site that will give your 2000TC a Toyota 5-speed
transmission.
http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/products.php?which=65&return=25 

Group purchase for everything but the transmission? 

Regards,
Gross Scruggs
Annapolis MD, USA



From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 15 13:36:45 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 18:36:45 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
 within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W1220D50F6A5DF5290D7B6AB8E60@phx.gbl>


Hi from NZSD1 = very rare sight today compared to 10+ years ago.  The only folk to have them seem to be club members - not a car seen in the hands of ordinary punters doing everyday things.  In 1998 they were in the sub-$1000 dunger class on 6 month roadworthy stays of execution. 
Not a car that impressed me a lot when new.  Like an Alfa, it came across as a smart [even artistic] design that was then cost-accounted to the split penny resulting in poor quality and bad fit-out that was most evident in the interior.  OK for a mid-range sales repmobile like an Opel/Holden Camira, but not on a unit that was pitched at the top end of the market in terms of brand marketing and pricing.  [I take that back, the Holden Camira interior was better quality.]
Those SD1's I've seen for scrapping have two things in common: extensive corrosion [too costly to rectify for a warrant of fitness relative to the price of the car cf. above] and completely shot dog-kennel interiors.
I remember about 5-6 years ago there was one old guy locally with a mint and perfectly maintained 2600cc SD1 who couldn't sell it for months - even when the make-an-offer price went down from $8000 to circa $5,000.  One prospect offered $2000 with the comment "These aren't very good cars, mate".  Says it all really.


> On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover <britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:
> 
> >
> > are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> > much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
> >
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111014/fdc8a20b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From jLewis at wsscwater.com  Sat Oct 15 14:23:32 2011
From: jLewis at wsscwater.com (Lewis, Joseph (Michael))
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 15:23:32 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <251797tvjm4sdipqnnlc0srd0tfor3cklv@4ax.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<251797tvjm4sdipqnnlc0srd0tfor3cklv@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C015C623D@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>

Peter I have a turmeric 1980 SD1 made for the American market. I'm near
Annapolis MD USA. 

J. Michael Lewis

jlewis at wsscwater.com
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Peter Huttemeier
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 7:52 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:25:09 -0400, you wrote:

>
>are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>much reach all worldly locations?.

I have one, or an SE2 anyway. Off the road at the moment pending a
strip down as a club racer and putting on concessional club
registration once it is 30 years old. 

Cheers,

Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster 
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Sat Oct 15 15:53:44 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 16:53:44 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C015C623D@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><251797tvjm4sdipqnnlc0srd0tfor3cklv@4ax.com>
	<B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C015C623D@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Message-ID: <96F8B2069767466FA77FF3AA21B4C6C4@SD1>

Hi Michael,

Long time since we met. I have two 1980 burgundy SD1's one running and the
other for spares less engine and transmission here in Columbia, Va. Hope all
is well with you and your other British car.
Cheers,
Ben Saunders

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Lewis, Joseph (Michael)
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 3:24 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Peter I have a turmeric 1980 SD1 made for the American market. I'm near
Annapolis MD USA. 

J. Michael Lewis

jlewis at wsscwater.com
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Peter Huttemeier
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 7:52 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:25:09 -0400, you wrote:

>
>are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>much reach all worldly locations?.

I have one, or an SE2 anyway. Off the road at the moment pending a
strip down as a club racer and putting on concessional club
registration once it is 30 years old. 

Cheers,

Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster 
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4553 - Release Date: 10/15/11



From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Sat Oct 15 16:39:53 2011
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE LA CERTE PSY D)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 15:39:53 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes
Message-ID: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>


Hi all,
I would appreciate some diagnostic help.  1970 P6B  NADA.   Driving home and the rear end begins making a terrible thumping sound. Got the rear up in the air on jacks, got it running. put it in drive, and I noticed  the left rear wheel (driver's side) is spinning.  The right keeps trying to 'catch' and does so infrequently with a couple of slow revolutions.   The brake caliper is not stuck on the right. I also notice that the left rear is spinning fairly easily in NEUTRAL????  In neutral I can get the right rear spinning if  I do it manually, but the left continues to spin much faster.  
I checked all nuts and bolts on the half shafts, the differential mounting plate, the rear shocks, the drive shaft, etc., etc., everything is nice and tight.
Have the gears in the differential gone?    
Any help would be appreciated-----if the differential is shot, any suggestions about a rebuild kit, or a good used one  (this is what I thought I bought when I redid the entire drive train 2 years ago)

Lance La Certe, Psy.D. 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
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From vern at inkspotco.com  Sat Oct 15 16:55:22 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 14:55:22 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9A1290F4-D945-4593-A046-C8858BE18758@inkspotco.com>

I take it the car still has drive (i.e. you drove the car home)?

Yours
Vern


On 2011-10-15, at 2:39 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D wrote:

> 
> 
> Hi all,
> I would appreciate some diagnostic help.  1970 P6B  NADA.   Driving home and the rear end begins making a terrible thumping sound. Got the rear up in the air on jacks, got it running. put it in drive, and I noticed  the left rear wheel (driver's side) is spinning.  The right keeps trying to 'catch' and does so infrequently with a couple of slow revolutions.   The brake caliper is not stuck on the right. I also notice that the left rear is spinning fairly easily in NEUTRAL????  In neutral I can get the right rear spinning if  I do it manually, but the left continues to spin much faster.  
> I checked all nuts and bolts on the half shafts, the differential mounting plate, the rear shocks, the drive shaft, etc., etc., everything is nice and tight.
> Have the gears in the differential gone?    
> Any help would be appreciated-----if the differential is shot, any suggestions about a rebuild kit, or a good used one  (this is what I thought I bought when I redid the entire drive train 2 years ago)
> 
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D. 		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111015/82292f0e/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sat Oct 15 16:56:08 2011
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 08:26:08 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
	<15F3BC26E93D41089B09E350E07F7661@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <4E9A0178.6000106@ozemail.com.au>

Most baffling problem .....
My (pre Haltech) fuel injected SD1 used to flood and stop under brakes!
Turned out to be that the engine ECU wiring loom has becoming unclipped 
from the firewall and contacted the rear stud on the exhaust manifold 
under the deceleration force!

Took a couple of weeks to find that one.
;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

On 10/15/2011 10:09 AM, jaguru at bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> I had an SD1 that used to cut out after driving for a while, though it
> seemed to be a fuel problem, not ignition. (I had converted to a Holley

<snip>


From lafbery at telus.net  Sat Oct 15 17:12:51 2011
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 15:12:51 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes
In-Reply-To: <9A1290F4-D945-4593-A046-C8858BE18758@inkspotco.com>
References: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>
	<9A1290F4-D945-4593-A046-C8858BE18758@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <9022277D915C4CF4A0943F6BB14910A1@BarryPC>

The crown wheel has come loose inside the diff. Do not drive the car or it 
will crack the casing if it hasn't already. The crown wheel bolts have zero 
clearance to the casing. if the casing is not cracked you can take it apart 
and retighten the bolts with loctite thread locker and drill and wire the 
bolt heads.
I have seen this problem 3 times before.

Barry
P2
P3
ex P5B




-----Original Message----- 
From: Vern Klukas
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 2:55 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes


I take it the car still has drive (i.e. you drove the car home)?

Yours
Vern


On 2011-10-15, at 2:39 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D wrote:

>
>
> Hi all,
> I would appreciate some diagnostic help.  1970 P6B  NADA.   Driving home 
> and the rear end begins making a terrible thumping sound. Got the rear up 
> in the air on jacks, got it running. put it in drive, and I noticed  the 
> left rear wheel (driver's side) is spinning.  The right keeps trying to 
> 'catch' and does so infrequently with a couple of slow revolutions.   The 
> brake caliper is not stuck on the right. I also notice that the left rear 
> is spinning fairly easily in NEUTRAL????  In neutral I can get the right 
> rear spinning if  I do it manually, but the left continues to spin much 
> faster.
> I checked all nuts and bolts on the half shafts, the differential mounting 
> plate, the rear shocks, the drive shaft, etc., etc., everything is nice 
> and tight.
> Have the gears in the differential gone?
> Any help would be appreciated-----if the differential is shot, any 
> suggestions about a rebuild kit, or a good used one  (this is what I 
> thought I bought when I redid the entire drive train 2 years ago)
>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111015/82292f0e/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>

Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com





**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From trymes at rymes.net  Sat Oct 15 18:26:34 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 19:26:34 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion
In-Reply-To: <015401cc8b65$108a5240$319ef6c0$@net>
References: <mailman.1.1318698020.28030.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<015401cc8b65$108a5240$319ef6c0$@net>
Message-ID: <A402A560-F368-456C-AE4A-B7405855E525@rymes.net>


On Oct 15, 2011, at 2:05 PM, Scruggs Family wrote:

> 
> Here's an Australian site that will give your 2000TC a Toyota 5-speed
> transmission.
> http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/products.php?which=65&return=25 
> 
> Group purchase for everything but the transmission? 

Unless I am mistaken, the 2000TC does not share a bolt pattern with the 3-litre IOE engine, or does it?

Tom



From michael.maher at virgin.net  Sat Oct 15 18:31:00 2011
From: michael.maher at virgin.net (Mike Maher)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 00:31:00 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion
References: <mailman.1.1318698020.28030.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<015401cc8b65$108a5240$319ef6c0$@net>
Message-ID: <009401cc8b92$7ffc29a0$0301a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>

There is a way of  fitting a P6 bellhousing to an SD1 ( LT77) gearbox, but 
this involves some machining work on that bellhousing.

Regards

Mike Maher

P.S. Australia is nowhere near New Zealand!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scruggs Family" <gjkzscruggs at verizon.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 7:05 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion


>
> Here's an Australian site that will give your 2000TC a Toyota 5-speed
> transmission.
> http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/products.php?which=65&return=25
>
> Group purchase for everything but the transmission?
>
> Regards,
> Gross Scruggs
> Annapolis MD, USA
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
>
> =======
> Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
> (Email Guard: 7.0.0.26, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18521)
> http://www.pctools.com/
> ======= 





=======
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
(Email Guard: 7.0.0.26, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18521)
http://www.pctools.com/
=======


From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sat Oct 15 19:41:26 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 17:41:26 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <006201cc8b9c$56fea5f0$04fbf1d0$@net>

Lance I have a spare diff in Portland OR.  It worked fine on my 70 3500S,
but has a weld. Hence I got another, which has the same, acceptable level of
play. Email me offline if you are interested.

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of LANCE LA CERTE PSY D
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 2:40 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes



Hi all,
I would appreciate some diagnostic help.  1970 P6B  NADA.   Driving home and
the rear end begins making a terrible thumping sound. Got the rear up in the
air on jacks, got it running. put it in drive, and I noticed  the left rear
wheel (driver's side) is spinning.  The right keeps trying to 'catch' and
does so infrequently with a couple of slow revolutions.   The brake caliper
is not stuck on the right. I also notice that the left rear is spinning
fairly easily in NEUTRAL????  In neutral I can get the right rear spinning
if  I do it manually, but the left continues to spin much faster.  
I checked all nuts and bolts on the half shafts, the differential mounting
plate, the rear shocks, the drive shaft, etc., etc., everything is nice and
tight.
Have the gears in the differential gone?    
Any help would be appreciated-----if the differential is shot, any
suggestions about a rebuild kit, or a good used one  (this is what I thought
I bought when I redid the entire drive train 2 years ago)

Lance La Certe, Psy.D. 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
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5/82292f0e/attachment.html>
**************************************
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From kkinard at att.net  Sat Oct 15 19:55:57 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 19:55:57 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes
In-Reply-To: <006201cc8b9c$56fea5f0$04fbf1d0$@net>
References: <COL111-W464D0EF946440E14ACF3D083E60@phx.gbl>
	<006201cc8b9c$56fea5f0$04fbf1d0$@net>
Message-ID: <4E9A2B9D.1050102@att.net>

Hi Lance,
I have five in San Antonio...You could drive down for the weekend and 
carry it home. Sheila and I would put you up. Wait til it gets really 
cold up there and come down here to thaw out.
Roverly,
Kent K.


From den at aachenkennels.com  Sun Oct 16 00:31:49 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 13:31:49 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12
References: <j7bo5o+j27m@eGroups.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D9BB@Server.adoptsec.local>

Just watched a programme about an English chap called Charlie who has a
Rover with a Merlin engine from a Tank. Tops out at 162 MPH but he
reckons its good for over 200. Read more about him here.

 

http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/blog/charlie-broomfield.html

 

Den.

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From britishrover at gmail.com  Sun Oct 16 07:44:25 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 08:44:25 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D9BB@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <j7bo5o+j27m@eGroups.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D9BB@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_T5uf=4Ga-2MxtNptpvU-xF+NkhpqRQGFYAJx1e_Ltfkw@mail.gmail.com>

Thank You Den,
Too Bad he hasn't had the Support yet to come to the USA, to the Salt
Flats...a modern day Burt Monroe...it would make for a Great New
Hollywood Movie..hmmmmn, how do we alert Jerry Brucheimer about this
mate?..anyone a friend of that Magnificent Movie Producer? If Mr
Brucheimer (sp) produces a movie, you can bet it's always TOPFLIGHT!

Dave Moorefield
Asheville, North Carolina

On 10/16/11, Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com> wrote:
>
> Just watched a programme about an English chap called Charlie who has a
> Rover with a Merlin engine from a Tank. Tops out at 162 MPH but he
> reckons its good for over 200. Read more about him here.
>
>
>
> http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/blog/charlie-broomfield.html
>
>
>
> Den.
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111016/274bf57b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From britishrover at gmail.com  Sun Oct 16 07:47:31 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 08:47:31 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_T5uf=4Ga-2MxtNptpvU-xF+NkhpqRQGFYAJx1e_Ltfkw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <j7bo5o+j27m@eGroups.com>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D9BB@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<CAKQjg_T5uf=4Ga-2MxtNptpvU-xF+NkhpqRQGFYAJx1e_Ltfkw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_SgNvwmKLL23q57p4UGi+h-7B4=+JKBPY6fvdDYGrAC8Q@mail.gmail.com>

See above..thanks Den

On 10/16/11, British Rover <britishrover at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thank You Den,
> Too Bad he hasn't had the Support yet to come to the USA, to the Salt
> Flats...a modern day Burt Monroe...it would make for a Great New
> Hollywood Movie..hmmmmn, how do we alert Jerry Brucheimer about this
> mate?..anyone a friend of that Magnificent Movie Producer? If Mr
> Brucheimer (sp) produces a movie, you can bet it's always TOPFLIGHT!
>
> Dave Moorefield
> Asheville, North Carolina
>
> On 10/16/11, Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com> wrote:
>>
>> Just watched a programme about an English chap called Charlie who has a
>> Rover with a Merlin engine from a Tank. Tops out at 162 MPH but he
>> reckons its good for over 200. Read more about him here.
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/blog/charlie-broomfield.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Den.
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111016/274bf57b/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>


From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sun Oct 16 10:43:22 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 08:43:22 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_T5uf=4Ga-2MxtNptpvU-xF+NkhpqRQGFYAJx1e_Ltfkw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <j7bo5o+j27m@eGroups.com>	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D9BB@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<CAKQjg_T5uf=4Ga-2MxtNptpvU-xF+NkhpqRQGFYAJx1e_Ltfkw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006f01cc8c1a$568951a0$039bf4e0$@net>

A very minor bit of detail: This madman is wearing a standard Royal Air
Force flight coverall, made of Nomex.  If you have not had the pleasure,
Nomex is designed for fire protection, and is guaranteed to be too hot in
summer, too cold in winter.
At those speeds, I wonder how he controls the aerodynamic forces...no
problem of lift in front...with all that RR weight!

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of British Rover
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 5:44 AM
To: Rovernet
Cc: RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12


Thank You Den,
Too Bad he hasn't had the Support yet to come to the USA, to the Salt
Flats...a modern day Burt Monroe...it would make for a Great New
Hollywood Movie..hmmmmn, how do we alert Jerry Brucheimer about this
mate?..anyone a friend of that Magnificent Movie Producer? If Mr
Brucheimer (sp) produces a movie, you can bet it's always TOPFLIGHT!

Dave Moorefield
Asheville, North Carolina

On 10/16/11, Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com> wrote:
>
> Just watched a programme about an English chap called Charlie who has a
> Rover with a Merlin engine from a Tank. Tops out at 162 MPH but he
> reckons its good for over 200. Read more about him here.
>
>
>
> http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/blog/charlie-broomfield.html
>
>
>
> Den.
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
6/274bf57b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
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From DevlinS at bp.com  Sun Oct 16 11:05:37 2011
From: DevlinS at bp.com (Devlin, Stewart (Contractor))
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 17:05:37 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12
In-Reply-To: <006f01cc8c1a$568951a0$039bf4e0$@net>
References: <j7bo5o+j27m@eGroups.com>	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617D9BB@Server.adoptsec.local><CAKQjg_T5uf=4Ga-2MxtNptpvU-xF+NkhpqRQGFYAJx1e_Ltfkw@mail.gmail.com>
	<006f01cc8c1a$568951a0$039bf4e0$@net>
Message-ID: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA157B52E38@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>

 
It might not be RR, Meteor tank engines were made by Rover during the
war.

Regards 
Stewart Devlin 
FTT, Clair platform 
email : ClairHUCTelecomsEng at bp.com 
Telephone :- 
>From external - 01224 - 836333 
>From Dyce 11 749 6333 
BP Exploration Company Limited. Registered office: Burnside Road,
Farburn Industrial Estate, Dyce, Aberdeen, AB21 7PB.  Registered in
Scotland, number SC792. 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Geff McCarthy
Sent: 16 October 2011 16:43
To: 'Rovernet'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12


A very minor bit of detail: This madman is wearing a standard Royal Air
Force flight coverall, made of Nomex.  If you have not had the pleasure,
Nomex is designed for fire protection, and is guaranteed to be too hot
in summer, too cold in winter.
At those speeds, I wonder how he controls the aerodynamic forces...no
problem of lift in front...with all that RR weight!

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of British Rover
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 5:44 AM
To: Rovernet
Cc: RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover SD1 V12


Thank You Den,
Too Bad he hasn't had the Support yet to come to the USA, to the Salt
Flats...a modern day Burt Monroe...it would make for a Great New
Hollywood Movie..hmmmmn, how do we alert Jerry Brucheimer about this
mate?..anyone a friend of that Magnificent Movie Producer? If Mr
Brucheimer (sp) produces a movie, you can bet it's always TOPFLIGHT!

Dave Moorefield
Asheville, North Carolina

On 10/16/11, Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com> wrote:
>
> Just watched a programme about an English chap called Charlie who has 
> a Rover with a Merlin engine from a Tank. Tops out at 162 MPH but he 
> reckons its good for over 200. Read more about him here.
>
>
>
> http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/blog/charlie-broomfield.html
>
>
>
> Den.
>
> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was 
> scrubbed...
> URL:
>
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1101
6/274bf57b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
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From gjkzscruggs at verizon.net  Sun Oct 16 13:16:38 2011
From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net (Scruggs Family)
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 14:16:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.190.1318721463.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.190.1318721463.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <019801cc8c2f$bf835ab0$3e8a1010$@net>

Thanks, Mike, for that correction.  I was thinking of that other company,
that is actually located in Australia, that does the alloy V8-to-Toyota
(oval case) transmission conversion.  Simon Craig's P6B, in NZ, has this
conversion and apparently it works quite well.  

Regards,
Gross Scruggs

P.S.  Correct me if I'm right... but they are actually pretty close.  (wink)


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 00:31:00 +0100
From: "Mike Maher" <michael.maher at virgin.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion
Message-ID: <009401cc8b92$7ffc29a0$0301a8c0 at miked77a6a71f0>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

There is a way of  fitting a P6 bellhousing to an SD1 ( LT77) gearbox, but 
this involves some machining work on that bellhousing.

Regards

Mike Maher

P.S. Australia is nowhere near New Zealand!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scruggs Family" <gjkzscruggs at verizon.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 7:05 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion


>
> Here's an Australian site that will give your 2000TC a Toyota 5-speed
> transmission.
> http://www.conversioncomp.co.nz/products.php?which=65&return=25
>
> Group purchase for everything but the transmission?
>
> Regards,
> Gross Scruggs
> Annapolis MD, USA
>
>




From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sun Oct 16 15:55:48 2011
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 07:25:48 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000TC 5-speed conversion
In-Reply-To: <019801cc8c2f$bf835ab0$3e8a1010$@net>
References: <mailman.190.1318721463.16547.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<019801cc8c2f$bf835ab0$3e8a1010$@net>
Message-ID: <4E9B44D4.5020600@ozemail.com.au>



On 10/17/2011 4:46 AM, Scruggs Family wrote:

<snip>

> P.S.  Correct me if I'm right... but they are actually pretty close.  (wink)

Too close for comfort during the Bledisloe Cup
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bledisloe_Cup

;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz


From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Wed Oct 19 07:57:15 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 05:57:15 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP1683EB8352BAEE64973A3639EEA0@phx.gbl>

Hello all

While in the auto body shop for the long anticipated paint job, one of the doors of my 3500S was crushed by a wayward out of control car. I am not sure which one, as it is still pinned under the car, but I wonder if anyone out there in Rovernetland has any good 3.5 doors. I do have some 2000 doors but of course these don't have the electric window arrangement. I am not sure if I can convert the 2000 door to eleccy windows; anyone know about this procedure? But now I remember that the quarter light is different too............guh

Thanks
Adrian McDonald


Sent from my iPad

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 19 10:15:23 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 11:15:23 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP1683EB8352BAEE64973A3639EEA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP1683EB8352BAEE64973A3639EEA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <843A4DC828D54673B7168A8555ADC4ED@SD1>

Where are you located?

Ben

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 8:57 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties


Hello all

While in the auto body shop for the long anticipated paint job, one of the
doors of my 3500S was crushed by a wayward out of control car. I am not sure
which one, as it is still pinned under the car, but I wonder if anyone out
there in Rovernetland has any good 3.5 doors. I do have some 2000 doors but
of course these don't have the electric window arrangement. I am not sure if
I can convert the 2000 door to eleccy windows; anyone know about this
procedure? But now I remember that the quarter light is different
too............guh

Thanks
Adrian McDonald


Sent from my iPad
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2092/4560 - Release Date: 10/18/11



From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Wed Oct 19 17:07:21 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 15:07:21 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties
In-Reply-To: <843A4DC828D54673B7168A8555ADC4ED@SD1>
References: <BLU0-SMTP1683EB8352BAEE64973A3639EEA0@phx.gbl>
	<843A4DC828D54673B7168A8555ADC4ED@SD1>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP105CEA55932AB2FB1252C759EEA0@phx.gbl>

I am in San Diego.

Adrian

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 19, 2011, at 8:15 AM, "Ben Saunders" <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:

> 
> Where are you located?
> 
> Ben
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
> Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 8:57 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties
> 
> 
> Hello all
> 
> While in the auto body shop for the long anticipated paint job, one of the
> doors of my 3500S was crushed by a wayward out of control car. I am not sure
> which one, as it is still pinned under the car, but I wonder if anyone out
> there in Rovernetland has any good 3.5 doors. I do have some 2000 doors but
> of course these don't have the electric window arrangement. I am not sure if
> I can convert the 2000 door to eleccy windows; anyone know about this
> procedure? But now I remember that the quarter light is different
> too............guh
> 
> Thanks
> Adrian McDonald
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2092/4560 - Release Date: 10/18/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 


From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 19 19:49:52 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 20:49:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP105CEA55932AB2FB1252C759EEA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP1683EB8352BAEE64973A3639EEA0@phx.gbl><843A4DC828D54673B7168A8555ADC4ED@SD1>
	<BLU0-SMTP105CEA55932AB2FB1252C759EEA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <379EE7A25F07460693FCABAE73DDB783@SD1>

I have some doors here on the east coast in Virginia so let me know which
door or doors you need and I will see what I have and what condition they
are in. I will also check out the power window as well but keep in mind that
shipping is going to be high. You might find some in your neck of the woods
a bit closer but let me know. I need to go to Roanoke to pick up some others
and that may be just what you need. Feel free to call me at 434-842-3667.
Ben Saunders


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 6:07 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties


I am in San Diego.

Adrian

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 19, 2011, at 8:15 AM, "Ben Saunders" <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:

> 
> Where are you located?
> 
> Ben
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
> Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 8:57 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Door Difficulties
> 
> 
> Hello all
> 
> While in the auto body shop for the long anticipated paint job, one of the
> doors of my 3500S was crushed by a wayward out of control car. I am not
sure
> which one, as it is still pinned under the car, but I wonder if anyone out
> there in Rovernetland has any good 3.5 doors. I do have some 2000 doors
but
> of course these don't have the electric window arrangement. I am not sure
if
> I can convert the 2000 door to eleccy windows; anyone know about this
> procedure? But now I remember that the quarter light is different
> too............guh
> 
> Thanks
> Adrian McDonald
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2092/4560 - Release Date: 10/18/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2092/4560 - Release Date: 10/18/11



From den at aachenkennels.com  Thu Oct 20 05:20:14 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 18:20:14 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: How they built the P6
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DA3C@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hi,

Thought some of you may not have seen this. After two sandwiches and 4 cups of tea I eventually worked my way through all the ones on the P6 and P5.

 

Den.

 

From: Dennis Gallacher 
Sent: Thursday, 20 October 2011 6:14 PM
To: 'RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au'
Subject: How they built the P6

 

An interesting film on YouTube about the P6. 

 

http://youtu.be/DYDD3nzezOY

 

 

Note there are other short films at the side I also found interesting.

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From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Fri Oct 21 18:40:16 2011
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE LA CERTE PSY D)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 17:40:16 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover in Nevada
Message-ID: <COL111-W385FA078DC1EE7F7AB709583E80@phx.gbl>


Has anybody seen this----the body panels do indeed look to be in good shape.   Perhaps the funniest and oddest aspect of this car are the front hood scoops------maybe someone had a little too much mescaline out in the desert when they were working on this car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-ROVER-3500S-/280756229523?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item415e601593#ht_500wt_1182

Lance La Certe, Psy.D. 		 	   		  
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From trymes at rymes.net  Fri Oct 21 19:19:47 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 20:19:47 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover in Nevada
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W385FA078DC1EE7F7AB709583E80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W385FA078DC1EE7F7AB709583E80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C2DA58CE-F71C-4C1E-9E59-4F556E90207D@rymes.net>

On Oct 21, 2011, at 7:40 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D wrote:

> Has anybody seen this----the body panels do indeed look to be in good shape.   Perhaps the funniest and oddest aspect of this car are the front hood scoops------maybe someone had a little too much mescaline out in the desert when they were working on this car.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-ROVER-3500S-/280756229523?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item415e601593#ht_500wt_1182

Lance,

Some might say that the scoops on the 3500 P6 were mescaline inspired even when put on correctly!

Tom

From lewill at ctcweb.net  Sat Oct 22 07:22:00 2011
From: lewill at ctcweb.net (larry)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 06:22:00 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] tc half shafts
Message-ID: <001201cc90b5$3a0fdc20$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>

I have the half shafts out of my TC. There is a bolt on the hub. What is the grease or oil that is inserted in the hub. Thanks, Larry
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From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sat Oct 22 13:48:07 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 11:48:07 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover in Nevada
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W385FA078DC1EE7F7AB709583E80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W385FA078DC1EE7F7AB709583E80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <009301cc90eb$24ad4030$6e07c090$@net>

The info is a bit exaggerated: the boot and bonnet are aluminium.  I think
the hood scoops are just sitting on the bonnet, not attached.  This car -if
it lived in Nevada - will be absolutely rust-free.  Conversely it will have
much sun damage, which can be seen in the rear seat backs.
It also has the AED, I think.  I have one for my 70 3500S, but it is not on
the car. I retro-fitted a manual choke, which works well.
Anyone thinking about buying a V8: this would be a good choice, IMHO. $900
is a decent price.

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of LANCE LA CERTE PSY D
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 4:40 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover in Nevada



Has anybody seen this----the body panels do indeed look to be in good shape.
Perhaps the funniest and oddest aspect of this car are the front hood
scoops------maybe someone had a little too much mescaline out in the desert
when they were working on this car.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-ROVER-3500S-/280756229523?pt=US_Cars_Tru
cks&hash=item415e601593#ht_500wt_1182

Lance La Certe, Psy.D. 		 	   		  
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http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Mon Oct 24 17:17:21 2011
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE LA CERTE PSY D)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 16:17:21 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux
Message-ID: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>


Just got the differential out of my '70 P6B using an ingenious system of a small jack AND suspending the unit with two tie down straps which I could release gradually to keep the entire unwieldy 'pumpkin' from tipping side to side.
After all of the suggestions I received from the Rovenet regarding the tremendous 'clunking' I was hearing when in drive (but not in reverse) the most frequent consensus was the crown wheel was loose.  When I pulled half of the differential casing off, the pinion and crown gear meshed seamlessly (all bolts on crown gear were tight).   I'm loathe to pull the crown gear off and get deeper into the differential, because my mechanical skills will be overwhelmed.  Are there some other possibilities in terms of something being wrong further inside the differential (which I will take to a mechanic)-----or are there some other ideas?
Some points to keep in mind----the brakes were not binding----I don't think I could have driven down the street quickly in reverse (no clunking) if they had.   After having had the car towed to my garage, I gingerly drove it around the block the next weekend and the clunking resumed only after about 2-3 blocks and at speeds above 20-30mph.   I noticed no clunking when I drove the automatic in low gear  (yes the transmission has been completely rebuilt 3 years ago and I've put less than 2,000 miles on the car----all of the shuddering is coming from the rear end).  The differential mounting bracket was welded and reinforced before I replaced the drive train 2 years ago and is sill solid.  The half shafts turn easily and were all tightly bolted in place.
I'm really at a loss.
Thanks in advance for any help

Lance La Certe, Psy.D.   		 	   		  
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From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Oct 24 17:39:07 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 20:39:07 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL111-W360155F14668F41161C42887EF0@phx.gbl>


Hi Lance
           Its been a while since I have owned a P6B, but my diff jammed once while doing about 50mph I almost lost the car. I drove it home very slowly with a clunking sound coming from the diff. Once out of the car the diff appeared fine, I discovered the bearing in the long front neck that meets with the rear end of the drive shaft had shattered and was the cause of all my troubles. Hope this helps
                                  Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 16:17:21 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux
> 
> 
> 
> Just got the differential out of my '70 P6B using an ingenious system of a small jack AND suspending the unit with two tie down straps which I could release gradually to keep the entire unwieldy 'pumpkin' from tipping side to side.
> After all of the suggestions I received from the Rovenet regarding the tremendous 'clunking' I was hearing when in drive (but not in reverse) the most frequent consensus was the crown wheel was loose.  When I pulled half of the differential casing off, the pinion and crown gear meshed seamlessly (all bolts on crown gear were tight).   I'm loathe to pull the crown gear off and get deeper into the differential, because my mechanical skills will be overwhelmed.  Are there some other possibilities in terms of something being wrong further inside the differential (which I will take to a mechanic)-----or are there some other ideas?
> Some points to keep in mind----the brakes were not binding----I don't think I could have driven down the street quickly in reverse (no clunking) if they had.   After having had the car towed to my garage, I gingerly drove it around the block the next weekend and the clunking resumed only after about 2-3 blocks and at speeds above 20-30mph.   I noticed no clunking when I drove the automatic in low gear  (yes the transmission has been completely rebuilt 3 years ago and I've put less than 2,000 miles on the car----all of the shuddering is coming from the rear end).  The differential mounting bracket was welded and reinforced before I replaced the drive train 2 years ago and is sill solid.  The half shafts turn easily and were all tightly bolted in place.
> I'm really at a loss.
> Thanks in advance for any help
> 
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.   		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
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> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From magnet at roverclub.org  Mon Oct 24 18:18:26 2011
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 19:18:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EA5F242.4010103@roverclub.org>

I had a similar clunking in the final drive of my '93 Range Rover.  It 
turned out to be a broken cross shaft in the differential.  Half of it 
would slide out far enough to wallop the case every time it went 
around.  (The curious thing is that it would clunk for a while and then 
behave itself.  I can't really account for that aspect.)  The shaft was 
located by a circlip on each end, and of course once it brokeinto two 
pieces there was nothing to keep it in place.  Needless to say, the 
differential gears were not in such good shape either.

Cheers,

  -- Bill Daddis

==========


On 24-Oct-11 6:17 PM, LANCE LA CERTE PSY D wrote:
>
> Just got the differential out of my '70 P6B using an ingenious system of a small jack AND suspending the unit with two tie down straps which I could release gradually to keep the entire unwieldy 'pumpkin' from tipping side to side.
> After all of the suggestions I received from the Rovenet regarding the tremendous 'clunking' I was hearing when in drive (but not in reverse) the most frequent consensus was the crown wheel was loose.  When I pulled half of the differential casing off, the pinion and crown gear meshed seamlessly (all bolts on crown gear were tight).   I'm loathe to pull the crown gear off and get deeper into the differential, because my mechanical skills will be overwhelmed.  Are there some other possibilities in terms of something being wrong further inside the differential (which I will take to a mechanic)-----or are there some other ideas?
> Some points to keep in mind----the brakes were not binding----I don't think I could have driven down the street quickly in reverse (no clunking) if they had.   After having had the car towed to my garage, I gingerly drove it around the block the next weekend and the clunking resumed only after about 2-3 blocks and at speeds above 20-30mph.   I noticed no clunking when I drove the automatic in low gear  (yes the transmission has been completely rebuilt 3 years ago and I've put less than 2,000 miles on the car----all of the shuddering is coming from the rear end).  The differential mounting bracket was welded and reinforced before I replaced the drive train 2 years ago and is sill solid.  The half shafts turn easily and were all tightly bolted in place.
> I'm really at a loss.
> Thanks in advance for any help
>
> Lance La Certe, Psy.D.   		 	   		
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> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>



From den at aachenkennels.com  Mon Oct 24 18:44:09 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:44:09 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux
References: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DA8E@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hello Lance,
I'm not an expert on the P6 but if I was you I would look for something
other than the diff before I went much further and spent me hard earned.
Many noises can travel on a car and the obvious might not be the cause.
I recall as an apprentice being made to lay in the boot of a car whilst
one of the mechanics drove it around the block or hanging out the rear
passenger door doing a James Bond thing with me ear close to the car all
because we could not locate where the noise or knocking g was coming
from.

I note you said the gearbox had been redone but what about the gearbox
mountings? Other things that come to mind and what I would check next
would be UJ, suspension mounting points, have a good look at the anti
tramp brackets as I've seen one on a different make of car that had a
crack most of the way around. Guess the exhaust system is in good shape
and you've giving it a good shaking. A lot of weird knocking noise had
been the expansion box or silencer.
  
I'd be very careful about sticking me paws inside the bowels of a diff
and like you mention I'd take it to an expert. They can be tricky
buggers for the ordinary layman to try and fix. Workshop manuals are
full of word like collapsible spacers, torque settings, backlash, wear
points and other magical words plus you may need to have specialist
tools something like a 400,000-ton press.

Dont think I have helped much mate but hopefully given you food for
thought.

Den Gallacher.



 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of LANCE LA CERTE PSY D
Sent: Tuesday, 25 October 2011 6:17 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux



Just got the differential out of my '70 P6B using an ingenious system of
a small jack AND suspending the unit with two tie down straps which I
could release gradually to keep the entire unwieldy 'pumpkin' from
tipping side to side.
After all of the suggestions I received from the Rovenet regarding the
tremendous 'clunking' I was hearing when in drive (but not in reverse)
the most frequent consensus was the crown wheel was loose.  When I
pulled half of the differential casing off, the pinion and crown gear
meshed seamlessly (all bolts on crown gear were tight).   I'm loathe to
pull the crown gear off and get deeper into the differential, because my
mechanical skills will be overwhelmed.  Are there some other
possibilities in terms of something being wrong further inside the
differential (which I will take to a mechanic)-----or are there some
other ideas?
Some points to keep in mind----the brakes were not binding----I don't
think I could have driven down the street quickly in reverse (no
clunking) if they had.   After having had the car towed to my garage, I
gingerly drove it around the block the next weekend and the clunking
resumed only after about 2-3 blocks and at speeds above 20-30mph.   I
noticed no clunking when I drove the automatic in low gear  (yes the
transmission has been completely rebuilt 3 years ago and I've put less
than 2,000 miles on the car----all of the shuddering is coming from the
rear end).  The differential mounting bracket was welded and reinforced
before I replaced the drive train 2 years ago and is sill solid.  The
half shafts turn easily and were all tightly bolted in place.
I'm really at a loss.
Thanks in advance for any help

Lance La Certe, Psy.D.   		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Tue Oct 25 08:02:12 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 09:02:12 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W477CB68FB2B1D9F396E8BC83EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <170ADCB17880405AB6A893FC5F7657D0@SD1>

Where are you located Lance?

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of LANCE LA CERTE PSY D
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 6:17 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rear end woes redux



Just got the differential out of my '70 P6B using an ingenious system of a
small jack AND suspending the unit with two tie down straps which I could
release gradually to keep the entire unwieldy 'pumpkin' from tipping side to
side.
After all of the suggestions I received from the Rovenet regarding the
tremendous 'clunking' I was hearing when in drive (but not in reverse) the
most frequent consensus was the crown wheel was loose.  When I pulled half
of the differential casing off, the pinion and crown gear meshed seamlessly
(all bolts on crown gear were tight).   I'm loathe to pull the crown gear
off and get deeper into the differential, because my mechanical skills will
be overwhelmed.  Are there some other possibilities in terms of something
being wrong further inside the differential (which I will take to a
mechanic)-----or are there some other ideas?
Some points to keep in mind----the brakes were not binding----I don't think
I could have driven down the street quickly in reverse (no clunking) if they
had.   After having had the car towed to my garage, I gingerly drove it
around the block the next weekend and the clunking resumed only after about
2-3 blocks and at speeds above 20-30mph.   I noticed no clunking when I
drove the automatic in low gear  (yes the transmission has been completely
rebuilt 3 years ago and I've put less than 2,000 miles on the car----all of
the shuddering is coming from the rear end).  The differential mounting
bracket was welded and reinforced before I replaced the drive train 2 years
ago and is sill solid.  The half shafts turn easily and were all tightly
bolted in place.
I'm really at a loss.
Thanks in advance for any help

Lance La Certe, Psy.D.   		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 26 07:51:32 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:51:32 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>

Hello Robert,

Not too sure if you would be interested in this car but thought you might
know someone that would. It is a 1964 Rover 110 RHD that is in show shape.
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2668729052.html. I have done work
on this car and if the price is right it will be a good buy.
Ben Saunders
434-842-3667 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 2:57 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Hi British (Dave),

Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.  Most
participants own P6's, many have older models.

As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.

1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles

1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
past summer, 46K)

The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier this
year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
NEC/Birmingham show next month).

There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
2009.

Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a bit
less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
them on the road in this country.

Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they will
always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
 Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market shift
towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism of
early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined Rover's
once-fine reputation.

With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's outstanding
"issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar in
shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're cursed
by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
trouble.

Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?

Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
(fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.), they're
very nice cars.

When they can be made to run reliably, that is.

Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting mice,
they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's had
difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
patience and persistence.

Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master cylinders,
unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
and requires further modifications.

But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!

Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
there looking for a good home!

Robert Heimerl
Arlington, VA

On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover
<britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:

>
> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
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From trymes at rymes.net  Wed Oct 26 10:00:41 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Another P4 on Craigslist - Pomona, CA $4,000
In-Reply-To: <31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EA82099.2040300@rymes.net>

On 10/26/2011 8:51 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
>
> Hello Robert,
>
> Not too sure if you would be interested in this car but thought you might
> know someone that would. It is a 1964 Rover 110 RHD that is in show shape.
> http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2668729052.html. I have done work
> on this car and if the price is right it will be a good buy.
> Ben Saunders
> 434-842-3667

There's also one in California...

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/2654871821.html

Tom


From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 26 10:20:54 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:20:54 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
Message-ID: <C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>

Hello Kent,

Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper pistons
for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are in bad
shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with some
that are in better shape.
Regards,
Ben Saunders

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Hi Dave,
I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but 
neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the 
vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground, 
though I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other 
Rovers P4, P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps 
because of my long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy emissions 
laws in Texas, the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease 
with which domestic parts can be substituted and the relative simplicity 
of the design. I also do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the 
commonalities between them and the SD1 very convenient.

Roverly,
Kent K.
>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>
>>      
>
>    


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
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From robertime at cavtel.net  Wed Oct 26 11:18:26 2011
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:18:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
Message-ID: <CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Ben,

I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into SD1's.
 [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual) sunroof
versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B coupes, too,
they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes (RoverAmerica) has
a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know of any
other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?

I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover models.

I hope the P4 at Lake Anna will find a good home.  The gentleman near
Yorktown who has a P3 and a P6 might be a better prospect for this one, but
is already facing lots of work on those two cars.  I'll tell him about it
when I'm down that way.

I may have previously provided you with his contact information, but can
send it to you directly if you'd like -- I don't think he's on Rovernet.

Thanks,

Robert

On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 8:51 AM, Ben Saunders <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:

>
> Hello Robert,
>
> Not too sure if you would be interested in this car but thought you might
> know someone that would. It is a 1964 Rover 110 RHD that is in show shape.
> http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2668729052.html. I have done
> work
> on this car and if the price is right it will be a good buy.
> Ben Saunders
> 434-842-3667
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 2:57 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
> networking....
>
>
> Hi British (Dave),
>
> Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.  Most
> participants own P6's, many have older models.
>
> As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
> complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.
>
> 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles
>
> 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
> past summer, 46K)
>
> The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier
> this
> year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
> historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
> NEC/Birmingham show next month).
>
> There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
> there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
> 2009.
>
> Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
> origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a
> bit
> less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
> them on the road in this country.
>
> Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
> they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
> of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they will
> always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
> unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
> taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
>  Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
> years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market shift
> towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism of
> early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
> produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
> consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined
> Rover's
> once-fine reputation.
>
> With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's
> outstanding
> "issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
> American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar
> in
> shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're cursed
> by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
> maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
> while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
> trouble.
>
> Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
> rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?
>
> Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
> appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
> style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
> well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
> (fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.), they're
> very nice cars.
>
> When they can be made to run reliably, that is.
>
> Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
> for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting
> mice,
> they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
> due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's had
> difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
> especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
> crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
> experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
> steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
> cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
> patience and persistence.
>
> Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master
> cylinders,
> unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
> widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
> and requires further modifications.
>
> But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!
>
> Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
> one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
> there looking for a good home!
>
> Robert Heimerl
> Arlington, VA
>
> On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover
> <britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:
>
> >
> > are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> > much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
> >
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> 4/fdc8a20b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 10/14/11
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
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From kkinard at att.net  Wed Oct 26 11:25:39 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 11:25:39 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
	<C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EA83483.7020404@att.net>

Hi Ben,
I should have some decent ones...maybe new. I assume we are talking 
about fronts? all six?
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hello Kent,
>
> Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper pistons
> for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are in bad
> shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with some
> that are in better shape.
> Regards,
> Ben Saunders
>    



From irishrover1 at live.com  Wed Oct 26 11:53:56 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:53:56 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
 within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>,
	<31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>,
	<CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL111-W16878A487B166F7CD9D0D087ED0@phx.gbl>


Hi Robert
             You may well already be aware? but there are two SD1'sfor sale on the web site of the Rover Club of Canada, Ben Saunders owns one, the other is located on Vancouver Island Canada.
                           Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 12:18:26 -0400
> From: robertime at cavtel.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> 
> I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into SD1's.
>  [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
> less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual) sunroof
> versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B coupes, too,
> they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes (RoverAmerica) has
> a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know of any
> other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?
> 
> I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover models.
> 
> I hope the P4 at Lake Anna will find a good home.  The gentleman near
> Yorktown who has a P3 and a P6 might be a better prospect for this one, but
> is already facing lots of work on those two cars.  I'll tell him about it
> when I'm down that way.
> 
> I may have previously provided you with his contact information, but can
> send it to you directly if you'd like -- I don't think he's on Rovernet.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert
> 
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 8:51 AM, Ben Saunders <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:
> 
> >
> > Hello Robert,
> >
> > Not too sure if you would be interested in this car but thought you might
> > know someone that would. It is a 1964 Rover 110 RHD that is in show shape.
> > http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2668729052.html. I have done
> > work
> > on this car and if the price is right it will be a good buy.
> > Ben Saunders
> > 434-842-3667
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On
> > Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
> > Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 2:57 PM
> > To: Rovernet
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
> > networking....
> >
> >
> > Hi British (Dave),
> >
> > Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.  Most
> > participants own P6's, many have older models.
> >
> > As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
> > complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.
> >
> > 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles
> >
> > 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
> > past summer, 46K)
> >
> > The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier
> > this
> > year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
> > historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
> > NEC/Birmingham show next month).
> >
> > There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
> > there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
> > 2009.
> >
> > Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
> > origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a
> > bit
> > less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
> > them on the road in this country.
> >
> > Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
> > they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
> > of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they will
> > always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
> > unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
> > taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
> >  Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
> > years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market shift
> > towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism of
> > early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
> > produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
> > consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined
> > Rover's
> > once-fine reputation.
> >
> > With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's
> > outstanding
> > "issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
> > American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar
> > in
> > shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're cursed
> > by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
> > maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
> > while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
> > trouble.
> >
> > Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
> > rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?
> >
> > Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
> > appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
> > style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
> > well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
> > (fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.), they're
> > very nice cars.
> >
> > When they can be made to run reliably, that is.
> >
> > Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
> > for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting
> > mice,
> > they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
> > due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's had
> > difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
> > especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
> > crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
> > experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
> > steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
> > cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
> > patience and persistence.
> >
> > Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master
> > cylinders,
> > unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
> > widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
> > and requires further modifications.
> >
> > But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!
> >
> > Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
> > one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
> > there looking for a good home!
> >
> > Robert Heimerl
> > Arlington, VA
> >
> > On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover
> > <britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> > > much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
> > >
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > <
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011101
> > 4/fdc8a20b/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 10/14/11
> >
> >
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111026/83015423/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 26 13:26:52 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:26:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <4EA83483.7020404@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net>
Message-ID: <939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>

Hi Kent,
You are the man and you are correct in that it is the front calipers that
are in need of a fresh set of pistons. This car came to me without any
calipers at all and I found a set of rear ones that had been rebuilt but had
to rely on a set of front ones off a car I bought back in the 70's. They
have been sitting on the cart for at least 25 years and I think you can
guess the rest. Let me know what you want for them. I need all 6 pistons.
Regards,
Ben

PS: Let me know if you are interested in a RHD 1964 Rover 110 that is in
very good shape.

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 12:26 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Hi Ben,
I should have some decent ones...maybe new. I assume we are talking 
about fronts? all six?
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hello Kent,
>
> Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper
pistons
> for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are in bad
> shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with some
> that are in better shape.
> Regards,
> Ben Saunders
>    


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4575 - Release Date: 10/26/11



From kkinard at att.net  Wed Oct 26 13:31:35 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:31:35 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Was Just Curious, Now P5B Coupe
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
	<CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4EA85207.2080705@att.net>

Hi Robert,
The last time I counted there were six P5B Coupes in North America. Dirk 
has two, the beautiful blue one and a white car he got from California 
that would take a lot of work to restore. There is a very nice Bordeaux 
(with siver birch roof) in the New York City Area (or at least it was a 
few years ago). Mine has been sitting without much progress for about 
five years. I have the front wings under repair at present so am finally 
making some progress. It has had all the welding done except the front 
wings. New inner, middle, and outer sills, new "A" and "D" posts, LR 
door skin complete, boot subfloor and rear valence. Seats are done. All 
rubber is in hand. Converted from RHD to LHD. The first one I had was 
too far gone to save, but I did manage to save many of the parts.

Roverly,
Kent K.
San Antonio, TX

ROBERT HEIMERL wrote:
> Hi Ben,
>
> I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into SD1's.
>   [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
> less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual) sunroof
> versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B coupes, too,
> they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes (RoverAmerica) has
> a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know of any
> other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?
>
> I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover models.
>    



From kkinard at att.net  Wed Oct 26 13:43:57 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 13:43:57 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6B front caliper pistons/P4 110
In-Reply-To: <939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net>
	<939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EA854ED.3090705@att.net>

Hi Ben,
Let me see what I have. It will be Friday or Saturday before I can take 
a look. I sold my P4 100 to Martin Wass in California but I don't think 
I want to do a RHD car of any sort. I have enough trouble staying on my 
side of the road as is without forgetting in what country I'm driving. I 
drove a 105S in New Zealand years ago and it required too much brain 
power even then.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> You are the man and you are correct in that it is the front calipers that
> are in need of a fresh set of pistons. This car came to me without any
> calipers at all and I found a set of rear ones that had been rebuilt but had
> to rely on a set of front ones off a car I bought back in the 70's. They
> have been sitting on the cart for at least 25 years and I think you can
> guess the rest. Let me know what you want for them. I need all 6 pistons.
> Regards,
> Ben
>
> PS: Let me know if you are interested in a RHD 1964 Rover 110 that is in
> very good shape.
>    



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 26 13:55:15 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:55:15 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com><31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
	<CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02C4749C27A1477ABD3E13BFFD41162D@SD1>

Hey Robert,

Here is one you or others might be interested in. It does not start but that
might get the price down a bit more.

Ben Saunders

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 12:18 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Hi Ben,

I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into SD1's.
 [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual) sunroof
versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B coupes, too,
they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes (RoverAmerica) has
a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know of any
other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?

I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover models.

I hope the P4 at Lake Anna will find a good home.  The gentleman near
Yorktown who has a P3 and a P6 might be a better prospect for this one, but
is already facing lots of work on those two cars.  I'll tell him about it
when I'm down that way.

I may have previously provided you with his contact information, but can
send it to you directly if you'd like -- I don't think he's on Rovernet.

Thanks,

Robert

On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 8:51 AM, Ben Saunders <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:

>
> Hello Robert,
>
> Not too sure if you would be interested in this car but thought you might
> know someone that would. It is a 1964 Rover 110 RHD that is in show shape.
> http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/2668729052.html. I have done
> work
> on this car and if the price is right it will be a good buy.
> Ben Saunders
> 434-842-3667
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 2:57 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
> networking....
>
>
> Hi British (Dave),
>
> Very few "Rovernetters" admit to having SD1's, perhaps a dozen or so.
Most
> participants own P6's, many have older models.
>
> As you know, I've two of these cars -- and, yes, despite a variety of
> complaints, I plan to keep at least one around indefinitely.
>
> 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Persian Aqua, 108K miles
>
> 1980 Rover SD1, 5-speed manual -- Turmeric Yellow (new to me, as of this
> past summer, 46K)
>
> The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier
> this
> year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
> historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
> NEC/Birmingham show next month).
>
> There's at least one other NAS (North American Specification) SD1 "over
> there," a Persian Aqua car from California that was purchased on eBay in
> 2009.
>
> Naturally it remains easier to take care of these cars in their country of
> origin, but in recent years the internet and, yes, eBay have made life a
> bit
> less complicated for those of us who are attempting to keep a handful of
> them on the road in this country.
>
> Yet very little is simple or easy when it comes to Rover SD1's.  Although
> they were ahead of their time in many respects, an unfortunate convergence
> of factors (and hopelessly inept Leyland management) ensured that they
will
> always be haunted by a heritage of drastic cost cutting, massive labor
> unrest, "dodgy" build quality and rapid depreciation.  And that's not even
> taking into account the millions sunk into the failed U.S. export scheme.
>  Those few hundred that made it over here were instantly orphaned, taking
> years to find buyers in the face of rising energy prices and a market
shift
> towards 4-cylinder compacts.  So, despite the largely unguarded optimism
of
> early reviews, a combination of poor planning and remarkably bad luck
> produced an automotive disaster of substantial proportions.  Indeed, many
> consider this to be the car (and, more broadly, the era) that ruined
> Rover's
> once-fine reputation.
>
> With sufficient time and patience many (if not all) of the SD1's
> outstanding
> "issues" can be resolved, but it's still not a model that many North
> American Rover fans appear eager to own -- since they're quite unfamiliar
> in
> shape and decidedly challenging in substance.  Worst of all, they're
cursed
> by that undesirable combination of being difficult to own and expensive to
> maintain while being largely ignored (scorned?) by collectors.  So
> while they're not worth a lot of money, they can certainly be a lot of
> trouble.
>
> Which leads to the question:  Other than the fact that they're so
> rare/unusual, why would anyone want to own a NAS SD1?
>
> Because they drive and handle at least as well as any modern car (even
> appear quite modern after 30+ years) and are blessed with a practical body
> style, comfortable seats, full (if odd-looking) instrumentation and the
> well-known Rover/Buick aluminum V8.  So despite some serious shortcomings
> (fragile interiors, flimsy body hardware, Lucas electricals, etc.),
they're
> very nice cars.
>
> When they can be made to run reliably, that is.
>
> Most surviving examples have been sitting in back yards (or repair shops)
> for years, even decades. Frequently damaged by water leaks and nesting
> mice,
> they present a real challenge to the typical automotive hobbyist.  Indeed,
> due to a lack of parts and service during those early years, many SD1's
had
> difficulty accumulating much more than 50,000 miles  Their fuel system --
> especially the oddly shaped, low-slung tank (shaped/placed that way for
> crash protection) -- is the biggest source of trouble, in my own SD1
> experience (five total, the first bought in 1990).  Beyond that, their
> steering racks are notorious for developing leaks and are neither easy nor
> cheap to replace.  Yet even these chronic problems can be overcome with
> patience and persistence.
>
> Then there are those troublesome Lockheed brake servos and master
> cylinders,
> unique to our early models.  While some have been converted to the more
> widely available Girling units found on later cars, it's not a direct fit
> and requires further modifications.
>
> But that's not unusual.  After all, we are talking about Rover SD1's!
>
> Best of luck with yours.  Hope I haven't discouraged anyone from taking on
> one of these interesting automotive orphans.  There are still a few out
> there looking for a good home!
>
> Robert Heimerl
> Arlington, VA
>
> On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 9:25 AM, British Rover
> <britishrover at gmail.com>wrote:
>
> >
> > are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
> > much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
> >
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> >
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>
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> 4/fdc8a20b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 10/14/11
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
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-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4575 - Release Date: 10/26/11



From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Oct 26 13:58:28 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:58:28 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6B front caliper pistons/P4 110
In-Reply-To: <4EA854ED.3090705@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net><939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
	<4EA854ED.3090705@att.net>
Message-ID: <44DE9FAAA4B64933A66110387B72BBF8@SD1>

Thanks Kent and I too have the same type brain view of the road and do not
want to try to readjust at my age. Look forward to hearing from you. Here is
a good deal on a SD1 if you are interested.
http://www.carsforsale.com/used_cars_for_sale/1980_Rover_3500_132640659_1
Ben

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2011 2:44 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6B front caliper pistons/P4 110


Hi Ben,
Let me see what I have. It will be Friday or Saturday before I can take 
a look. I sold my P4 100 to Martin Wass in California but I don't think 
I want to do a RHD car of any sort. I have enough trouble staying on my 
side of the road as is without forgetting in what country I'm driving. I 
drove a 105S in New Zealand years ago and it required too much brain 
power even then.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> You are the man and you are correct in that it is the front calipers that
> are in need of a fresh set of pistons. This car came to me without any
> calipers at all and I found a set of rear ones that had been rebuilt but
had
> to rely on a set of front ones off a car I bought back in the 70's. They
> have been sitting on the cart for at least 25 years and I think you can
> guess the rest. Let me know what you want for them. I need all 6 pistons.
> Regards,
> Ben
>
> PS: Let me know if you are interested in a RHD 1964 Rover 110 that is in
> very good shape.
>    


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4575 - Release Date: 10/26/11



From dmesmg at juno.com  Wed Oct 26 14:04:27 2011
From: dmesmg at juno.com (dmesmg at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 19:04:27 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Now P5B Coupes in North America
Message-ID: <20111026.150427.21546.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com>

Hello Rovernetters, In 1984, just after I had purchased my factory MG BGT V8 (factory fitted with the Rover V8 with 4860 code),  I attended a September Britsh car show in Como Park, Buffalo, NY that year.  There  were (2) P5B cars present and I believe both had come down from Ontario, Canada --only a 45 min ride.  Both P5Bs were dark colors --navy blue or black.  I don't recall if they were Coupes or saloons.  I have never seen either again at any local shows and always wondered what become of them.  While noting they had the same engine as my car, I never realized how rare they are in North America.    The P5Bs certainly are an attractive car!  Best regards,DanRochester, NY    
____________________________________________________________
Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
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From joncarter at cox.net  Wed Oct 26 22:40:27 2011
From: joncarter at cox.net (joncarter at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 20:40:27 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Was Just Curious, Now P5B Coupe
In-Reply-To: <4EA85207.2080705@att.net>
Message-ID: <20111026234027.8HA99.2429003.imail@fed1rmwml35>

Hi Netters,
I just returned from a trip to the Netherlands and saw a beautiful P5 LHD coupe owned by a member of the Dutch Rover club. I chatted with him on the street but didn't get his name. They are really beautiful cars!
Jon Carter
---- Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote: 
> 
> Hi Robert,
> The last time I counted there were six P5B Coupes in North America. Dirk 
> has two, the beautiful blue one and a white car he got from California 
> that would take a lot of work to restore. There is a very nice Bordeaux 
> (with siver birch roof) in the New York City Area (or at least it was a 
> few years ago). Mine has been sitting without much progress for about 
> five years. I have the front wings under repair at present so am finally 
> making some progress. It has had all the welding done except the front 
> wings. New inner, middle, and outer sills, new "A" and "D" posts, LR 
> door skin complete, boot subfloor and rear valence. Seats are done. All 
> rubber is in hand. Converted from RHD to LHD. The first one I had was 
> too far gone to save, but I did manage to save many of the parts.
> 
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
> San Antonio, TX
> 
> ROBERT HEIMERL wrote:
> > Hi Ben,
> >
> > I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into SD1's.
> >   [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
> > less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual) sunroof
> > versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B coupes, too,
> > they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes (RoverAmerica) has
> > a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know of any
> > other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?
> >
> > I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover models.
> >    
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From giannid at bigpond.com  Wed Oct 26 22:54:06 2011
From: giannid at bigpond.com (Gianni D'Ortenzio)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 14:54:06 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Was Just Curious, Now P5B Coupe
In-Reply-To: <20111026234027.8HA99.2429003.imail@fed1rmwml35>
References: <20111026234027.8HA99.2429003.imail@fed1rmwml35>
Message-ID: <178AAE08-05A3-47B4-A33E-12AB30AB8918@bigpond.com>

had my coupe at the Motorclassica in Melbourne Victoria Australia last  
weekend as part of a Rover Car Club display. I am totally biased of  
course, but I thought my coupe was a real magnet for the public and  
attracted much attention. ( mind you the other Rovers did also)
Cheers Gianni

>
> Hi Netters,
> I just returned from a trip to the Netherlands and saw a beautiful  
> P5 LHD coupe owned by a member of the Dutch Rover club. I chatted  
> with him on the street but didn't get his name. They are really  
> beautiful cars!
> Jon Carter
> ---- Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Robert,
>> The last time I counted there were six P5B Coupes in North America.  
>> Dirk
>> has two, the beautiful blue one and a white car he got from  
>> California
>> that would take a lot of work to restore. There is a very nice  
>> Bordeaux
>> (with siver birch roof) in the New York City Area (or at least it  
>> was a
>> few years ago). Mine has been sitting without much progress for about
>> five years. I have the front wings under repair at present so am  
>> finally
>> making some progress. It has had all the welding done except the  
>> front
>> wings. New inner, middle, and outer sills, new "A" and "D" posts, LR
>> door skin complete, boot subfloor and rear valence. Seats are done.  
>> All
>> rubber is in hand. Converted from RHD to LHD. The first one I had was
>> too far gone to save, but I did manage to save many of the parts.
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>> San Antonio, TX
>>
>> ROBERT HEIMERL wrote:
>>> Hi Ben,
>>>
>>> I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into  
>>> SD1's.
>>>  [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
>>> less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual)  
>>> sunroof
>>> versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B  
>>> coupes, too,
>>> they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes  
>>> (RoverAmerica) has
>>> a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know  
>>> of any
>>> other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?
>>>
>>> I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover  
>>> models.
>>>
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>



From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu  Thu Oct 27 05:20:19 2011
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 06:20:19 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] 3500S caliper pistons [was Spectrum of our
	networking....]
In-Reply-To: <C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net> <C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EA93063.7010606@alum.swarthmore.edu>

Ben and Kent,

If you don't find any good used ones, new caliper pistons are relatively 
inexpensive, because they common to other cars.  I got some from here:
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/cat/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/3

I'll have to check to see specifically which ones we used.

Available for 4-cyl P6 too.

--Steve


On 10/26/2011 11:20 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hello Kent,
>
> Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper pistons
> for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are in bad
> shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with some
> that are in better shape.
> Regards,
> Ben Saunders
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Kent Kinard
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
> networking....
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but
> neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the
> vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground,
> though I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other
> Rovers P4, P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps
> because of my long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy emissions
> laws in Texas, the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease
> with which domestic parts can be substituted and the relative simplicity
> of the design. I also do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the
> commonalities between them and the SD1 very convenient.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 10/14/11
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>


From robertime at cavtel.net  Thu Oct 27 08:12:48 2011
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 09:12:48 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Was Just Curious, Now P5B Coupe
In-Reply-To: <4EA85207.2080705@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<31C8870A5D744E549EE8B035A7F78A00@SD1>
	<CAG4k1tGY+9c5ftSPgP2j1XmWudq1LoN+fNK=Zn5x2f2+nbcacA@mail.gmail.com>
	<4EA85207.2080705@att.net>
Message-ID: <CAG4k1tF7JmHe5cQeHHF=vcEMyW7Zi_1OZbR1gf8oPDv2fXrLLA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Kent,

Glad to hear you're making progress on your P5B coupe.  Perhaps there are
more of these cars in the States than we imagine.

I think there may even be one out in Tucson at what remains of Rovers West.
 They're no longer in that business (had gone into real estate during the
boom/bubble), but I spoke with Pat Teske some months ago and he said that
there were still a few cars and parts around -- I didn't ask about coupes,
specifically.  He's listed some items on eBay in recent years, including a
P5.

Best regards,

Robert

On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 2:31 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:

>
> Hi Robert,
> The last time I counted there were six P5B Coupes in North America. Dirk
> has two, the beautiful blue one and a white car he got from California that
> would take a lot of work to restore. There is a very nice Bordeaux (with
> siver birch roof) in the New York City Area (or at least it was a few years
> ago). Mine has been sitting without much progress for about five years. I
> have the front wings under repair at present so am finally making some
> progress. It has had all the welding done except the front wings. New inner,
> middle, and outer sills, new "A" and "D" posts, LR door skin complete, boot
> subfloor and rear valence. Seats are done. All rubber is in hand. Converted
> from RHD to LHD. The first one I had was too far gone to save, but I did
> manage to save many of the parts.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
> San Antonio, TX
>
> ROBERT HEIMERL wrote:
>
>> Hi Ben,
>>
>> I am truly unfamiliar with P4's, remain pretty much locked into SD1's.
>>  [Don't laugh, it's actually happened to some folks -- given their
>> less-than-reliable central locking system, meaning that (manual) sunroof
>> versions might offer some advantages.]  While I really like P5B coupes,
>> too,
>> they would surely be expensive to buy/own.  Dirk Burrowes (RoverAmerica)
>> has
>> a very nice dark blue coupe, RHD.  Do Rovernet participants know of any
>> other P5B's that have made it over here to North America?
>>
>> I view them as the most desirable/collectible of all recent Rover models.
>>
>>
>
>
> ****************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>
>
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From kkinard at att.net  Thu Oct 27 14:18:59 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 14:18:59 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] 3500S caliper pistons [was Spectrum of
	our	networking....]
In-Reply-To: <4EA93063.7010606@alum.swarthmore.edu>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
	<C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
	<4EA93063.7010606@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Message-ID: <4EA9AEA3.70806@att.net>

Hi Steve,
Please give us part numbers as soon as possible.

Roverly,
Kent K.

S Manwell wrote:
>
> Ben and Kent,
>
> If you don't find any good used ones, new caliper pistons are 
> relatively inexpensive, because they common to other cars. I got some 
> from here:
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/cat/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/3 
>
>
> I'll have to check to see specifically which ones we used.
>
> Available for 4-cyl P6 too.
>
> --Steve
>
>
> On 10/26/2011 11:20 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
>> Hello Kent,
>>
>> Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper 
>> pistons
>> for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are in bad
>> shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with some
>> that are in better shape.
>> Regards,
>> Ben Saunders
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
>> Behalf Of Kent Kinard
>> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
>> To: Rovernet
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
>> networking....
>>
>>
>> Hi Dave,
>> I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but
>> neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the
>> vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground,
>> though I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other
>> Rovers P4, P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps
>> because of my long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy emissions
>> laws in Texas, the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease
>> with which domestic parts can be substituted and the relative simplicity
>> of the design. I also do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the
>> commonalities between them and the SD1 very convenient.
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>>>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>>>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 
>> 10/14/11
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>



From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Fri Oct 28 04:21:45 2011
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 11:21:45 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA - DOT 4 Castrol
	Restponse - Normal DOT 3 fluid
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959601126178@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>




Dear friends,
Hope everything well.

Several days ago i wrote asking you info about Rover p6 brake fluid.

This subject is not new, and we know that the normal p6 brake fluid was
Dot 4 Castrol LMA .

This fluid is unavailable by us in Italy.

There is a Dot 4 Castrol Response, which will be soon - new name - Dot 4
Castrol React Performance: I was told that it is an hig - performance
motorbike brake fluid, which is called DOT 4, but is DOT 5.1.

They also told me to use a normal DOT 3, which for old cars and old
circuits should be ok.

Please , what do you think about?

I think that they could be right, flushing the circuit.

Any ideas?

Could you please answer both addresses?
I will be out of office till Nov the 3rd.

Thanks in advance.

Best regards, ciao, GR.




From britishrover at gmail.com  Fri Oct 28 08:38:46 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 09:38:46 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA - DOT 4 Castrol
 Restponse - Normal DOT 3 fluid
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959601126178@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959601126178@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_QjyJSrQJV35iSm5EWq32+U2nK-ukYwbzMDLnR7roRVFw@mail.gmail.com>

Vavoline has interesting enough a Dot 3-4 combination, go figure!!

On 10/28/11, gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Dear friends,
> Hope everything well.
>
> Several days ago i wrote asking you info about Rover p6 brake fluid.
>
> This subject is not new, and we know that the normal p6 brake fluid was
> Dot 4 Castrol LMA .
>
> This fluid is unavailable by us in Italy.
>
> There is a Dot 4 Castrol Response, which will be soon - new name - Dot 4
> Castrol React Performance: I was told that it is an hig - performance
> motorbike brake fluid, which is called DOT 4, but is DOT 5.1.
>
> They also told me to use a normal DOT 3, which for old cars and old
> circuits should be ok.
>
> Please , what do you think about?
>
> I think that they could be right, flushing the circuit.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Could you please answer both addresses?
> I will be out of office till Nov the 3rd.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Best regards, ciao, GR.
>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Fri Oct 28 09:25:20 2011
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (jaguru at bellsouth.net)
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2011 10:25:20 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA - DOT 4
	CastrolRestponse - Normal DOT 3 fluid
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959601126178@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959601126178@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <F8AFAF9512094F958AA0C1C046146072@JamesDeanPC1>

I would suggest you check with Moss Motors, Europe, or SNG Barratt Jaguar , 
England; possibly Holland ...Moss sells correct fluid for MG's, etc. in US, 
and Barratt for Jaguars. James Dean , Florida.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Cc: <gianlucar_67 at libero.it>
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2011 5:21 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA - DOT 4 
CastrolRestponse - Normal DOT 3 fluid


>
>
>
>
> Dear friends,
> Hope everything well.
>
> Several days ago i wrote asking you info about Rover p6 brake fluid.
>
> This subject is not new, and we know that the normal p6 brake fluid was
> Dot 4 Castrol LMA .
>
> This fluid is unavailable by us in Italy.
>
> There is a Dot 4 Castrol Response, which will be soon - new name - Dot 4
> Castrol React Performance: I was told that it is an hig - performance
> motorbike brake fluid, which is called DOT 4, but is DOT 5.1.
>
> They also told me to use a normal DOT 3, which for old cars and old
> circuits should be ok.
>
> Please , what do you think about?
>
> I think that they could be right, flushing the circuit.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Could you please answer both addresses?
> I will be out of office till Nov the 3rd.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Best regards, ciao, GR.
>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu  Sat Oct 29 10:18:59 2011
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 11:18:59 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] 3500S caliper pistons -- part numbers and
	interchanges
In-Reply-To: <4EA9AEA3.70806@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>
	<C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>
	<4EA93063.7010606@alum.swarthmore.edu> <4EA9AEA3.70806@att.net>
Message-ID: <4EAC1963.1070503@alum.swarthmore.edu>

Hi Kent and Ben,

The Girling part numbers (from the Lucas 1965 - 1976 Lucas Service parts 
book) for the P6B front caliper pistons are:

Large:  6432 5438
Small:  6432 5809
seal kit:  SP2511

The same pistons are used in these Jaguars (and maybe other cars too):
XKE V12 1971 - '74
XJ6  '69 - '73

Plasma Nitrided pistons are available from several suppliers, including:
Large, $14.48 ea. :  
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/7775/Caliper%20Piston%20Large%20E-type%20V12%2CXJ%2069%20to%2073

Small, $12.84 ea., but out of stock today:  
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/7771/Caliper%20Piston%20Small%20Front%20Jag%20E-Type%20V12%2C%20XJ%2069%20to%2073

Kit, $14.76:  
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/10542/Caliper%20Kit%20Front%20E-Type%20V12%2C%20Jag%2069%20to%2073

The BPNW site is helpful in that it lists the associated Girling/Lucas 
part numbers for many parts, however their parts line is not exactly 
comprehensive.  They make this claim for the Plasma Nitriding:  "The 
pistons are Plasma Nitrided which will give you the life of Stainless at 
half the price. The Nitriding becomes a part of the metal and will not 
flake off or seperate, you can't buy a harder caliper piston."  Time 
will tell of course...

Try Ruth at ABC too; she had an article on Plasma Nitrided pistons in a 
recent RCCC magazine.

--Steve



On 10/27/2011 3:18 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
>
> Hi Steve,
> Please give us part numbers as soon as possible.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> S Manwell wrote:
>>
>> Ben and Kent,
>>
>> If you don't find any good used ones, new caliper pistons are 
>> relatively inexpensive, because they common to other cars. I got some 
>> from here:
>> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/cat/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/3 
>>
>>
>> I'll have to check to see specifically which ones we used.
>>
>> Available for 4-cyl P6 too.
>>
>> --Steve
>>
>>
>> On 10/26/2011 11:20 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
>>> Hello Kent,
>>>
>>> Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper 
>>> pistons
>>> for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are in 
>>> bad
>>> shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with 
>>> some
>>> that are in better shape.
>>> Regards,
>>> Ben Saunders
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
>>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
>>> Behalf Of Kent Kinard
>>> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
>>> To: Rovernet
>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
>>> networking....
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Dave,
>>> I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but
>>> neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of the
>>> vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground,
>>> though I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other
>>> Rovers P4, P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps
>>> because of my long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy 
>>> emissions
>>> laws in Texas, the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease
>>> with which domestic parts can be substituted and the relative 
>>> simplicity
>>> of the design. I also do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the
>>> commonalities between them and the SD1 very convenient.
>>>
>>> Roverly,
>>> Kent K.
>>>>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>>>>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 
>>> 10/14/11
>>>
>>>
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
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From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 29 12:10:48 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:10:48 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
Message-ID: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>


Can someone tell me how many flats to turn my mixture adjusting nut for the HS6 carb on my 3500s ? I had them rebuilt but I do not think they are set at the proper starting position for the engine to have enough fuel to run...the manual does not seem to give any rough position to set these at..
 
 Dennis Brooks  		 	   		  
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From vern at inkspotco.com  Sat Oct 29 12:24:04 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 10:24:04 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <76062140-B019-449B-902A-AD032915CD68@inkspotco.com>

I can't speak specifically to a 3500S, but my rule of thumb on a SU is to set the jet around .040" below flush and go from there. I'm sure somebody can deliver the real measurement though, so don't rush off to the shop quite yet.

Yours
Vern

On 2011-10-29, at 10:10 AM, Dennis . wrote:

> 
> 
> Can someone tell me how many flats to turn my mixture adjusting nut for the HS6 carb on my 3500s ? I had them rebuilt but I do not think they are set at the proper starting position for the engine to have enough fuel to run...the manual does not seem to give any rough position to set these at..
> 
> Dennis Brooks  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111029/a5b5d68c/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 29 13:29:19 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:29:19 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>


1. Wind both jets both fully up - closed.  [Hint: Remove the dashpot and piston assembly so that you can see when the jet is in line with the bridge - this gives a positive "fully up" setting.  Simply winding up against the spring is unreliable.  If you remove both dashpots & pistons simultaneously *do not mix them up* - mark 'em to make sure.]
2. Wind both jets down 2.5 to 3.0 full turns.  This should give enough rich mixture to start.
3. Check choke cable operation.  [Again - with the dashpot and piston off this is easy to see so do this at Step 1.]  Both jets should drop down a similar distance.
4.  Check accelerator linkages - operate OK?
5.  Check idle screw settings - 3 or 4 full turns from zero should do it to get started.
6.  Once running and warmed up, work on the carb balance task.  Note: anticipate one carb's jet setting be significantly "different" from the other - that's often how it rolls.



> From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:10:48 -0300
> Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone tell me how many flats to turn my mixture adjusting nut for the HS6 carb on my 3500s ? I had them rebuilt but I do not think they are set at the proper starting position for the engine to have enough fuel to run...the manual does not seem to give any rough position to set these at..
>  
>  Dennis Brooks  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111029/a5b5d68c/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From trymes at rymes.net  Sat Oct 29 13:48:29 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:48:29 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>

While you have the suction chambers and pistons off, do this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfU47Oqq9wA

Tom

On Oct 29, 2011, at 2:29 PM, Richard Sharpe wrote:

> 
> 
> 1. Wind both jets both fully up - closed.  [Hint: Remove the dashpot and piston assembly so that you can see when the jet is in line with the bridge - this gives a positive "fully up" setting.  Simply winding up against the spring is unreliable.  If you remove both dashpots & pistons simultaneously *do not mix them up* - mark 'em to make sure.]
> 2. Wind both jets down 2.5 to 3.0 full turns.  This should give enough rich mixture to start.
> 3. Check choke cable operation.  [Again - with the dashpot and piston off this is easy to see so do this at Step 1.]  Both jets should drop down a similar distance.
> 4.  Check accelerator linkages - operate OK?
> 5.  Check idle screw settings - 3 or 4 full turns from zero should do it to get started.
> 6.  Once running and warmed up, work on the carb balance task.  Note: anticipate one carb's jet setting be significantly "different" from the other - that's often how it rolls.


From kkinard at att.net  Sat Oct 29 16:57:14 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 16:57:14 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] 3500S caliper pistons -- part numbers
	and	interchanges
In-Reply-To: <4EAC1963.1070503@alum.swarthmore.edu>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net>	<C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA93063.7010606@alum.swarthmore.edu>
	<4EA9AEA3.70806@att.net> <4EAC1963.1070503@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Message-ID: <4EAC76BA.9000708@att.net>

Bless you, Steve. -KK

S Manwell wrote:
>
> Hi Kent and Ben,
>
> The Girling part numbers (from the Lucas 1965 - 1976 Lucas Service 
> parts book) for the P6B front caliper pistons are:
>
> Large: 6432 5438
> Small: 6432 5809
> seal kit: SP2511
>
> The same pistons are used in these Jaguars (and maybe other cars too):
> XKE V12 1971 - '74
> XJ6 '69 - '73
>
> Plasma Nitrided pistons are available from several suppliers, including:
> Large, $14.48 ea. : 
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/7775/Caliper%20Piston%20Large%20E-type%20V12%2CXJ%2069%20to%2073 
>
>
> Small, $12.84 ea., but out of stock today: 
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/7771/Caliper%20Piston%20Small%20Front%20Jag%20E-Type%20V12%2C%20XJ%2069%20to%2073 
>
>
> Kit, $14.76: 
> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/10542/Caliper%20Kit%20Front%20E-Type%20V12%2C%20Jag%2069%20to%2073 
>
>
> The BPNW site is helpful in that it lists the associated Girling/Lucas 
> part numbers for many parts, however their parts line is not exactly 
> comprehensive. They make this claim for the Plasma Nitriding: "The 
> pistons are Plasma Nitrided which will give you the life of Stainless 
> at half the price. The Nitriding becomes a part of the metal and will 
> not flake off or seperate, you can't buy a harder caliper piston." 
> Time will tell of course...
>
> Try Ruth at ABC too; she had an article on Plasma Nitrided pistons in 
> a recent RCCC magazine.
>
> --Steve
>
>
>
> On 10/27/2011 3:18 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>> Please give us part numbers as soon as possible.
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> S Manwell wrote:
>>>
>>> Ben and Kent,
>>>
>>> If you don't find any good used ones, new caliper pistons are 
>>> relatively inexpensive, because they common to other cars. I got 
>>> some from here:
>>> http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/cat/XJ%2069-97--Braking%20Components%2069-87/3 
>>>
>>>
>>> I'll have to check to see specifically which ones we used.
>>>
>>> Available for 4-cyl P6 too.
>>>
>>> --Steve
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/26/2011 11:20 AM, Ben Saunders wrote:
>>>> Hello Kent,
>>>>
>>>> Do you have or know of anyone that might have a good set of caliper 
>>>> pistons
>>>> for a 1970 3500S NADA? The ones that came out of the calipers are 
>>>> in bad
>>>> shape but I can make them do for a while but would refer to go with 
>>>> some
>>>> that are in better shape.
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Ben Saunders
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
>>>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
>>>> Behalf Of Kent Kinard
>>>> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 6:32 PM
>>>> To: Rovernet
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
>>>> networking....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Dave,
>>>> I have had twelve NAS SD1's, the first in 1987. I still have two, but
>>>> neither is driveable at the moment. Robert has expounded on some of 
>>>> the
>>>> vices and virtues of the NAS SD1 so I won't cover the same ground,
>>>> though I generally agree with his comments. I have had lots of other
>>>> Rovers P4, P5, P5B, P6, P6B (though no P2, P3, or 800 series). Perhaps
>>>> because of my long experience with the Buick Rover V8 and easy 
>>>> emissions
>>>> laws in Texas, the SD1 is still my favorite Rover because of the ease
>>>> with which domestic parts can be substituted and the relative 
>>>> simplicity
>>>> of the design. I also do Triumph TR8's (on my fifth one) and find the
>>>> commonalities between them and the SD1 very convenient.
>>>>
>>>> Roverly,
>>>> Kent K.
>>>>>> are there very many SD1 members here?...and does this network pretty
>>>>>> much reach all worldly locations?...just askin, just curious...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> **************************************
>>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----
>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2090/4551 - Release Date: 
>>>> 10/14/11
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> **************************************
>>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>>
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> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111029/c1ffd52d/attachment.html> 
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>



From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 29 17:20:20 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 19:20:20 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W30AF66CBB8B3EFA8E6255795D00@phx.gbl>


Thanks Richard...I have never had to start from square one before...I always had a running engine and tuned according to the book ...now I hope my AED is working ...however I will ensure it is shut off for the initial settings..
Regards
Dennis

 

> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:29:19 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Wind both jets both fully up - closed. [Hint: Remove the dashpot and piston assembly so that you can see when the jet is in line with the bridge - this gives a positive "fully up" setting. Simply winding up against the spring is unreliable. If you remove both dashpots & pistons simultaneously *do not mix them up* - mark 'em to make sure.]
> 2. Wind both jets down 2.5 to 3.0 full turns. This should give enough rich mixture to start.
> 3. Check choke cable operation. [Again - with the dashpot and piston off this is easy to see so do this at Step 1.] Both jets should drop down a similar distance.
> 4. Check accelerator linkages - operate OK?
> 5. Check idle screw settings - 3 or 4 full turns from zero should do it to get started.
> 6. Once running and warmed up, work on the carb balance task. Note: anticipate one carb's jet setting be significantly "different" from the other - that's often how it rolls.
> 
> 
> 
> > From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:10:48 -0300
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Can someone tell me how many flats to turn my mixture adjusting nut for the HS6 carb on my 3500s ? I had them rebuilt but I do not think they are set at the proper starting position for the engine to have enough fuel to run...the manual does not seem to give any rough position to set these at..
> > 
> > Dennis Brooks 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111029/a5b5d68c/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111029/65bd9659/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 30 12:21:21 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 17:21:21 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
In-Reply-To: <FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>,
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>


An excellent video that sorted out a 2000 TC rough running problem of mine which had been bugging me for two years - the carb pistons had been mixed during rebuild.  John Twist's series of Youtube vids cannot come more highly recommended.

> From: trymes at rymes.net
> Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:48:29 -0400
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] SU carb basic settings
> 
> 
> While you have the suction chambers and pistons off, do this:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfU47Oqq9wA
> 
> Tom
> 
> On Oct 29, 2011, at 2:29 PM, Richard Sharpe wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 1. Wind both jets both fully up - closed.  [Hint: Remove the dashpot and piston assembly so that you can see when the jet is in line with the bridge - this gives a positive "fully up" setting.  Simply winding up against the spring is unreliable.  If you remove both dashpots & pistons simultaneously *do not mix them up* - mark 'em to make sure.]
> > 2. Wind both jets down 2.5 to 3.0 full turns.  This should give enough rich mixture to start.
> > 3. Check choke cable operation.  [Again - with the dashpot and piston off this is easy to see so do this at Step 1.]  Both jets should drop down a similar distance.
> > 4.  Check accelerator linkages - operate OK?
> > 5.  Check idle screw settings - 3 or 4 full turns from zero should do it to get started.
> > 6.  Once running and warmed up, work on the carb balance task.  Note: anticipate one carb's jet setting be significantly "different" from the other - that's often how it rolls.
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
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From pfvandermeulen at cs.com  Sun Oct 30 13:02:32 2011
From: pfvandermeulen at cs.com (petervandermeulen)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 19:02:32 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] p6 koni's
Message-ID: <AD80C5A167DF4F0A9422D9F4E63E18D2@PCvanpeter>

hello , anyone interested in a set of new  koni,s front and rear rover p6. best regards peter from the netherlans
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From eightoone at comcast.net  Sun Oct 30 14:29:56 2011
From: eightoone at comcast.net (eightoone at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 19:29:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] p6 koni's
In-Reply-To: <AD80C5A167DF4F0A9422D9F4E63E18D2@PCvanpeter>
Message-ID: <1933556529.1592266.1320002996816.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Peter, What is the cost? And are they 'adjustable'? And do they come with 'bushings'? Any idea of 
		  shipping costs to "postal code 48357" (Michigan, USA)?...Regards, Ed K.

----- Original Message -----
From: petervandermeulen <pfvandermeulen at cs.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 18:02:32 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] p6 koni's


hello , anyone interested in a set of new  koni,s front and rear rover p6. best regards peter from the netherlans
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Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From pfvandermeulen at cs.com  Sun Oct 30 14:36:02 2011
From: pfvandermeulen at cs.com (petervandermeulen)
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 20:36:02 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] p6 koni's
In-Reply-To: <1933556529.1592266.1320002996816.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1933556529.1592266.1320002996816.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A0C8D40AE9D545E196BC70C9B14E2856@PCvanpeter>

it is a complete  adjustable set included bushes.the price is 225,00 euros 
ex 50,00 postage.best regards peter
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eightoone at comcast.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] p6 koni's


>
> Peter, What is the cost? And are they 'adjustable'? And do they come with 
> 'bushings'? Any idea of
>   shipping costs to "postal code 48357" (Michigan, USA)?...Regards, Ed K.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: petervandermeulen <pfvandermeulen at cs.com>
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 18:02:32 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: [Rovernet ] p6 koni's
>
>
> hello , anyone interested in a set of new  koni,s front and rear rover p6. 
> best regards peter from the netherlans
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
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> URL: 
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111030/f1f96533/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From gjkzscruggs at verizon.net  Mon Oct 31 12:24:51 2011
From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net (Scruggs Family)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 13:24:51 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Konis
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1320080410.6398.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1320080410.6398.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <007e01cc97f2$00164100$0042c300$@net>


I urge caution regarding Koni shocks on the front of a P6.  I bought a pair
for the front of my '67 TC back in about '80 and they just didn't feel
'right.'  After discussing the issue with the late Ron Jones he came up with
the answer. 

He talked with an engineer at Koni's US distributor and found to our
amazement that the shock they were selling for the P6 was one that fit but
was not valved correctly.  Recall that at the front of the P6 suspension the
shock extends as the wheel goes up and contracts as the wheel goes down...
the opposite of every other design.  The shock that Koni sold was valved for
a traditional suspension and was therefore 'backwards' for the P6.  I
immediately replaced the Konis and the correct front suspension response
returned.  

I'm not suggesting that the currently offered shock is valved incorrectly
but at that price I would indeed ask specific and pointed questions.  

Regards,
Gross Scruggs
Annapolis MD



From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Mon Oct 31 14:49:29 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 12:49:29 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Wire Wheels
Message-ID: <BLU154-W27E7DEC50703722D7D0F299ED60@phx.gbl>

Hi

I just got hold of some nice wires. Instead of messing about with tubes I thought I might simply RTV-up the spoke "holes" inside the wheel. I had a go and the seal looks ok. 

Anyone know if this should/should not work? I was being cheap.

Cheers
Adrian
 		 	   		  
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From trymes at rymes.net  Mon Oct 31 15:12:18 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:12:18 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Wire Wheels
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W27E7DEC50703722D7D0F299ED60@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W27E7DEC50703722D7D0F299ED60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EAF0122.2010708@rymes.net>

On 10/31/2011 3:49 PM, Adrian McDonald wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I just got hold of some nice wires. Instead of messing about with tubes I thought I might simply RTV-up the spoke "holes" inside the wheel. I had a go and the seal looks ok.
>
> Anyone know if this should/should not work? I was being cheap.
>
> Cheers
> Adrian

Adrian,

I would imagine that this would work, right up until it didn't. The RTV 
will develop leaks as the spoke and wheels flex. They do make tubeless 
wires now, but I think that their air-tightness is limited, too.

Anyhow, I'm all for being frugal, but not when it comes to safety items 
like Tires and wheels; your life depends on them! I would suggest that 
you mount new tires with new tubes. Neither should be prohibitively 
expensive.

Tom


From kkinard at att.net  Mon Oct 31 16:27:44 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:27:44 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros
In-Reply-To: <939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net>
	<939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EAF12D0.3030908@att.net>

Hi Netters,
Ian Potts has asked me if I have P6 synchro rings. I have some synchros 
(540854) but all my parts books show 571936. What do I have and what 
does he need?

Unsynchroneously,
Kent K.


From kkinard at att.net  Mon Oct 31 16:30:20 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:30:20 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net>
	<939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EAF136C.4080709@att.net>

Hi Ben,
I assume you got Steve's email about the new pistons. They are quite 
reasonable. I would have to pull calipers off a parts car to get used 
pistons. Cost me more in labor than i could charge you for pistons, 
assuming they were usable. What do you think?

Roverly,
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> You are the man and you are correct in that it is the front calipers that
> are in need of a fresh set of pistons. This car came to me without any
> calipers at all and I found a set of rear ones that had been rebuilt but had
> to rely on a set of front ones off a car I bought back in the 70's. They
> have been sitting on the cart for at least 25 years and I think you can
> guess the rest. Let me know what you want for them. I need all 6 pistons.
> Regards,
> Ben
>    



From lafbery at telus.net  Mon Oct 31 16:57:10 2011
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:57:10 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros
In-Reply-To: <4EAF12D0.3030908@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net><939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
	<4EAF12D0.3030908@att.net>
Message-ID: <79B086B7322D453F8A897169C99C93B1@BarryPC>

Hi Kent,
            540854 does not show in any of my 2000 TC,  LandRover, or P4 
books. But Google shows it as a 2000 TC Synchro ring.

Barry
P2
P3

From: Kent Kinard
Sent: Monday
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros


Hi Netters,
Ian Potts has asked me if I have P6 synchro rings. I have some synchros
(540854) but all my parts books show 571936. What do I have and what
does he need?

Unsynchroneously,
Kent K.

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From britishrover at gmail.com  Mon Oct 31 17:23:52 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:23:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Konis
In-Reply-To: <007e01cc97f2$00164100$0042c300$@net>
References: <mailman.1.1320080410.6398.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<007e01cc97f2$00164100$0042c300$@net>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_RwFOzh+3UwUF9FnXMRyaofzEfkj4Q1XGKZNKTuQMbgDA@mail.gmail.com>

..Good man Gross..it's this type of info that is very appreciated by
all of US...


On 10/31/11, Scruggs Family <gjkzscruggs at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
> I urge caution regarding Koni shocks on the front of a P6.  I bought a pair
> for the front of my '67 TC back in about '80 and they just didn't feel
> 'right.'  After discussing the issue with the late Ron Jones he came up with
> the answer.
>
> He talked with an engineer at Koni's US distributor and found to our
> amazement that the shock they were selling for the P6 was one that fit but
> was not valved correctly.  Recall that at the front of the P6 suspension the
> shock extends as the wheel goes up and contracts as the wheel goes down...
> the opposite of every other design.  The shock that Koni sold was valved for
> a traditional suspension and was therefore 'backwards' for the P6.  I
> immediately replaced the Konis and the correct front suspension response
> returned.
>
> I'm not suggesting that the currently offered shock is valved incorrectly
> but at that price I would indeed ask specific and pointed questions.
>
> Regards,
> Gross Scruggs
> Annapolis MD
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From eightoone at comcast.net  Mon Oct 31 17:37:29 2011
From: eightoone at comcast.net (eightoone at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 22:37:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Konis
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_RwFOzh+3UwUF9FnXMRyaofzEfkj4Q1XGKZNKTuQMbgDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1943099380.1655655.1320100649661.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I did have some 'mis-givings' also; but wasn't quite sure. As a sidebar: What are others' opinion(s) on
Gaz fully adjustable front and rears. Their web site gives a model # that are specific for the P6...but
very expensive...Ed K.

----- Original Message -----
From: British Rover <britishrover at gmail.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 22:23:52 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P6 Konis


..Good man Gross..it's this type of info that is very appreciated by
all of US...


On 10/31/11, Scruggs Family wrote:
>
>
> I urge caution regarding Koni shocks on the front of a P6.  I bought a pair
> for the front of my '67 TC back in about '80 and they just didn't feel
> 'right.'  After discussing the issue with the late Ron Jones he came up with
> the answer.
>
> He talked with an engineer at Koni's US distributor and found to our
> amazement that the shock they were selling for the P6 was one that fit but
> was not valved correctly.  Recall that at the front of the P6 suspension the
> shock extends as the wheel goes up and contracts as the wheel goes down...
> the opposite of every other design.  The shock that Koni sold was valved for
> a traditional suspension and was therefore 'backwards' for the P6.  I
> immediately replaced the Konis and the correct front suspension response
> returned.
>
> I'm not suggesting that the currently offered shock is valved incorrectly
> but at that price I would indeed ask specific and pointed questions.
>
> Regards,
> Gross Scruggs
> Annapolis MD
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From bsaunders at firstva.com  Mon Oct 31 20:34:46 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 21:34:46 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <4EAF136C.4080709@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net><939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>
	<4EAF136C.4080709@att.net>
Message-ID: <E841EF341FB147DEA33102B44A39ACA5@SD1>

Hi Kent,

You are correct in that I will be buying new pistons from that dealer. Thank
you for the effort though.

Ben 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 5:30 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,within the Rover Spectrum of our
networking....


Hi Ben,
I assume you got Steve's email about the new pistons. They are quite 
reasonable. I would have to pull calipers off a parts car to get used 
pistons. Cost me more in labor than i could charge you for pistons, 
assuming they were usable. What do you think?

Roverly,
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
> Hi Kent,
> You are the man and you are correct in that it is the front calipers that
> are in need of a fresh set of pistons. This car came to me without any
> calipers at all and I found a set of rear ones that had been rebuilt but
had
> to rely on a set of front ones off a car I bought back in the 70's. They
> have been sitting on the cart for at least 25 years and I think you can
> guess the rest. Let me know what you want for them. I need all 6 pistons.
> Regards,
> Ben
>    


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4588 - Release Date: 10/31/11



From kkinard at att.net  Mon Oct 31 21:49:42 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 21:49:42 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Just Curious,
	within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
In-Reply-To: <E841EF341FB147DEA33102B44A39ACA5@SD1>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net><939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>	<4EAF136C.4080709@att.net>
	<E841EF341FB147DEA33102B44A39ACA5@SD1>
Message-ID: <4EAF5E46.9010206@att.net>

Hi Ben,
I hadn't made any effort yet. That was what I wanted to save myself:-)
Kent K.

Ben Saunders wrote:
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> You are correct in that I will be buying new pistons from that dealer. 
> Thank
> you for the effort though.
>
> Ben
>



From kkinard at att.net  Mon Oct 31 22:00:53 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 22:00:53 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros
In-Reply-To: <79B086B7322D453F8A897169C99C93B1@BarryPC>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net><939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>	<4EAF12D0.3030908@att.net>
	<79B086B7322D453F8A897169C99C93B1@BarryPC>
Message-ID: <4EAF60E5.9020706@att.net>

Thanks, Barry. If there are any differences between the two part 
numbers, the lower number should be what Ian wants as he is rebuilding 
an early (418) trans. I did the Google search and found the listing. I'm 
going to try that with some of my other unidentified parts.
Kent K.

Barry & Shirley Lafbery wrote:
>
> Hi Kent,
> 540854 does not show in any of my 2000 TC, LandRover, or P4 books. But 
> Google shows it as a 2000 TC Synchro ring.
>
> Barry
> P2
> P3
>
> From: Kent Kinard
> Sent: Monday
> Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros
>
>
> Hi Netters,
> Ian Potts has asked me if I have P6 synchro rings. I have some synchros
> (540854) but all my parts books show 571936. What do I have and what
> does he need?
>
> Unsynchroneously,
> Kent K.
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>