>
From aboasberg at webtv.net  Tue Nov  1 06:59:08 2011
From: aboasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 11:59:08 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems
Message-ID: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>

In my 3500S, when I put the shifter in Park on a mild sloping surface,the car continues to roll and I hear a clicking sound.

What is wrong and how do I fix it?

Thanks.

Albert




From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Tue Nov  1 07:10:11 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 09:10:11 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W47AEBB11518B91F62003A795D70@phx.gbl>



  It does not sound like the lever is fully in park position ...it may need adjustment.
 
 Regards
 
 Dennis
 

> From: aboasberg at webtv.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 11:59:08 +0000
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems
> 
> 
> In my 3500S, when I put the shifter in Park on a mild sloping surface,the car continues to roll and I hear a clicking sound.
> 
> What is wrong and how do I fix it?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Albert
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111101/6a4e7629/attachment.html>

From A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au  Tue Nov  1 07:10:09 2011
From: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au (Alex Ward)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 23:10:09 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7146D88E-3626-4388-A646-7FCD4896CFAE@latrobe.edu.au>

I think your park lock tooth in the auto transmission is broken.   And I think that replacing it is expensive, requiring removal and dissembley, repair then replacement of the auto trans.  It would be cheaper to make sure the handbrake works efficiently!

Alex
On 01/11/2011, at 10:59 PM, Albert Boasberg wrote:


In my 3500S, when I put the shifter in Park on a mild sloping surface,the car continues to roll and I hear a clicking sound.

What is wrong and how do I fix it?

Thanks.

Albert



**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



Alex R Ward PhD, Associate Professor
School of Human Biosciences
Faculty of Health Sciences
LaTrobe University
Victoria  3086
Australia

Email: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au<mailto:A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au>
Tel:  61 3 9479 5814
Fax:  61 3 9479 5784




-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111101/f294ac78/attachment.html>

From A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au  Tue Nov  1 07:35:55 2011
From: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au (Alex Ward)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 23:35:55 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8B67F74C-95D4-4721-AACB-E90F95937AA9@latrobe.edu.au>

I hope Dennis is right!

Alex


On 01/11/2011, at 10:59 PM, Albert Boasberg wrote:


In my 3500S, when I put the shifter in Park on a mild sloping surface,the car continues to roll and I hear a clicking sound.

What is wrong and how do I fix it?

Thanks.

Albert



**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



Alex R Ward PhD, Associate Professor
School of Human Biosciences
Faculty of Health Sciences
LaTrobe University
Victoria  3086
Australia

Email: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au<mailto:A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au>
Tel:  61 3 9479 5814
Fax:  61 3 9479 5784




-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111101/4335f6c6/attachment.html>

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Tue Nov  1 07:38:40 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 08:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems
In-Reply-To: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU160-ds3202C955EC03C964F39BAB5D70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <975EE5F7E2F54BC98E7E03A1F3AA4763@SD1>

Check the adjustment of the shifter rod. There may be trash or something
keeping the rod from pushing the shifting lever all the way to the park
position. You can test it on a lift from underneath by putting it in park
then see if there is more movement after you pop the rod loose.
Ben

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Albert Boasberg
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 7:59 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Shifter Problems


In my 3500S, when I put the shifter in Park on a mild sloping surface,the
car continues to roll and I hear a clicking sound.

What is wrong and how do I fix it?

Thanks.

Albert



**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4588 - Release Date: 10/31/11



From lafbery at telus.net  Tue Nov  1 10:33:12 2011
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 08:33:12 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros
In-Reply-To: <4EAF60E5.9020706@att.net>
References: <CAKQjg_Tb0siMAjhvZuBLB_LA+aJj2VrvYF7WRMo3YAUQVrYh=w@mail.gmail.com><CAG4k1tH0vjqWkrQSMdapVBLxN9GnkBTLsLoeznOg6mjvyPqBoQ@mail.gmail.com>	<4E98B861.4090707@att.net><C3E2D4514AC445A6ADD9DB764103479C@SD1>	<4EA83483.7020404@att.net><939DDFC7512E438CB830786B8F9F18F8@SD1>	<4EAF12D0.3030908@att.net><79B086B7322D453F8A897169C99C93B1@BarryPC>
	<4EAF60E5.9020706@att.net>
Message-ID: <14104882620F45C5B5500B5B15CDF8D2@BarryPC>

Hi Kent,
             I did a Google search on a box of unidentified gaskets I had 
that had a few part numbers on them, it was amazing what came up.

Barry


-----Original Message----- 
From: Kent Kinard
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 8:00 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros


Thanks, Barry. If there are any differences between the two part
numbers, the lower number should be what Ian wants as he is rebuilding
an early (418) trans. I did the Google search and found the listing. I'm
going to try that with some of my other unidentified parts.
Kent K.

Barry & Shirley Lafbery wrote:
>
> Hi Kent,
> 540854 does not show in any of my 2000 TC, LandRover, or P4 books. But 
> Google shows it as a 2000 TC Synchro ring.
>
> Barry
> P2
> P3
>
> From: Kent Kinard
> Sent: Monday
> Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 Synchros
>
>
> Hi Netters,
> Ian Potts has asked me if I have P6 synchro rings. I have some synchros
> (540854) but all my parts books show 571936. What do I have and what
> does he need?
>
> Unsynchroneously,
> Kent K.
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From den at aachenkennels.com  Tue Nov  1 18:24:46 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 08:24:46 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hello All,

 

Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.

 

Den Gallacher.

 

From: RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au
[mailto:RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au] On Behalf Of Ken Watts
Sent: Tuesday, 1 November 2011 10:20 AM
To: RoverCarClubAust at yahoogroups.com; RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au
Subject: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question

 

  

Hi guys

 

Any assistance or thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.

 

It does not appear to have a compliance plate fitted yet my mate has  a
Jan 1971 P5B which has a compliance plate.

 

Any thoughts ??

 

Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?

 

I believe the later P6s were fitted with inertia reel belts from new.

 

The other question is and I know its a long shot is if any Melbourne
based members remember my car or have ever heard of any of the previous
first three owners.

 

Details are

 

NZ Assembled CKD car.


Sold new Sept 1 1972 from dealer Russell Franz P/L in Mentone Victoria

 

First owner - Bruva Contractors 2101 Malvern Rd Malvern from 1/9/1972 to
??

 

Second owner - DHP Consultants P/L 126 Wellington Parade East Melbourne
from ? to 10/10/1980

 

Third owner - Victor O'Boyle 22 Pach Road Wantirna Vict from 10/10/1980
to 26/8/1986

I have been told Victor was a Merecedes Benz salesman.

 

Fourth owner - Rick Ashworth Yallambie Vict from 26/8/1986 who then
brought the car to Tasmania when he moved over in 1997.

I purchased the car from Rick in Jan 2011.

 

Thanks in anticpation.

 

Ken

 

Launceston Tas

 

 

__._,_.___

Reply to sender
<mailto:wattsclassiccars at bigpond.com?subject=Re%3A%20Rover%20P6B%20quest
ion>  | Reply to group
<mailto:RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au?subject=Re%3A%20Rover%20P6B%20
question>  | Reply via web post
<http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/RoverAustralia/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxYTNtN
Tc5BF9TAzk3NDkwNDMzBGdycElkAzI5ODc4MjkzBGdycHNwSWQDMTc0MDA2NDY2MARtc2dJZ
AMxNTM2BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTMyMDExNDAwMg--?act=reply&messag
eNum=1536>  | Start a new topic
<http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/RoverAustralia/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJmOG5vN
2FuBF9TAzk3NDkwNDMzBGdycElkAzI5ODc4MjkzBGdycHNwSWQDMTc0MDA2NDY2MARzZWMDZ
nRyBHNsawNudHBjBHN0aW1lAzEzMjAxMTQwMDI->  

Messages in this topic
<http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/RoverAustralia/message/1536;_ylc=X3oDM
TM1ajliY2twBF9TAzk3NDkwNDMzBGdycElkAzI5ODc4MjkzBGdycHNwSWQDMTc0MDA2NDY2M
ARtc2dJZAMxNTM2BHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTMyMDExNDAwMgR0cGNJZAMxN
TM2>  (1) 

Recent Activity: 

Visit Your Group
<http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/RoverAustralia;_ylc=X3oDMTJmYzgycnZxBF
9TAzk3NDkwNDMzBGdycElkAzI5ODc4MjkzBGdycHNwSWQDMTc0MDA2NDY2MARzZWMDdnRsBH
NsawN2Z2hwBHN0aW1lAzEzMjAxMTQwMDI->  

Error! Filename not specified.
<http://au.groups.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTJlc3N0dWtyBF9TAzk3NDkwNDMzBGdycE
lkAzI5ODc4MjkzBGdycHNwSWQDMTc0MDA2NDY2MARzZWMDZnRyBHNsawNnZnAEc3RpbWUDMT
MyMDExNDAwMg--> 

Switch to: Text-Only
<mailto:RoverAustralia-traditional at yahoogroups.com.au?subject=Change%20D
elivery%20Format:%20Traditional> , Daily Digest
<mailto:RoverAustralia-digest at yahoogroups.com.au?subject=Email%20Deliver
y:%20Digest>  * Unsubscribe
<mailto:RoverAustralia-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com.au?subject=Unsubscrib
e>  * Terms of Use <http://au.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> 

.

 
<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97490433/grpId=29878293/grpspId=1740064660/
msgId=1536/stime=1320114002> 

__,_._,___

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111102/a52c8910/attachment.html>

From mikshdik at gmail.com  Thu Nov  3 00:05:24 2011
From: mikshdik at gmail.com (Mike Shaddick)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 16:05:24 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>

Re P6B question.

In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan  Inertial Reel seat belts
off the shelf.  You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.

rgds Mike


> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
> Message-ID:
> ? ? ? ?<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hello All,
>
>
>
> Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>


> I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>

>
>
>
> Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
> frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>
>
>


From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Thu Nov  3 14:40:09 2011
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
	Castrol LMA
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>

Dear friends,

The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
end, so probably I will have to replace it.

Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?

Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.


Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
not.
A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.

Please have a look at this link:

http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
<http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 

Any suggestion will be appreciated.


Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>

From pierrejanusz at hotmail.co.uk  Thu Nov  3 15:31:59 2011
From: pierrejanusz at hotmail.co.uk (pierre janusz)
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:31:59 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
 Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <SNT142-W32C4BBEC9000E2C6BAB43692D50@phx.gbl>


Dear Gianluca,
 
The brake master cylinder on the Rover 2000 and Rover 2200 is NOT the same as one used on any Land Rover. If you or your friend need a new master cylinder I have one for sale on Ebay. Item number 250921424249.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
 

> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> Dear friends,
> 
> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
> 
> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
> 
> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
> 
> 
> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
> not.
> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.
> 
> Please have a look at this link:
> 
> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 
> 
> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/1c89f71d/attachment.html>

From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Fri Nov  4 04:43:14 2011
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 10:43:14 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
	Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <SNT142-W32C4BBEC9000E2C6BAB43692D50@phx.gbl>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
	<SNT142-W32C4BBEC9000E2C6BAB43692D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E8F7@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>

Dear Perre, very kind of you.
Best regards, GR.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di pierre janusz
Inviato: gioved? 3 novembre 2011 21.32
A: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA



Dear Gianluca,
 
The brake master cylinder on the Rover 2000 and Rover 2200 is NOT the same as one used on any Land Rover. If you or your friend need a new master cylinder I have one for sale on Ebay. Item number 250921424249.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
 

> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> Dear friends,
> 
> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
> 
> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
> 
> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
> 
> 
> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
> not.
> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.
> 
> Please have a look at this link:
> 
> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 
> 
> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/1c89f71d/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Fri Nov  4 13:14:22 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 18:14:22 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
 Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>


Apart from sourcing a Rover 2000 replacement [or having the old booster overhauled], fitting an aftermarket brake booster is a simple, routine job for any brake service workshop - very cost effective too.

> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4	Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> Dear friends,
> 
> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
> 
> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
> 
> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
> 
> 
> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
> not.
> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.
> 
> Please have a look at this link:
> 
> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 
> 
> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111104/11a98254/attachment.html>

From vern at inkspotco.com  Fri Nov  4 19:13:42 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:13:42 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
	Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
	<BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ABCDB312-0089-4227-B878-F2587D844C35@inkspotco.com>

A new brake booster isn't going to help if the master cylinder is trash, which seems to be the diagnosis.

Yours
Vern


On 2011-11-04, at 11:14 AM, Richard Sharpe wrote:

> 
> 
> Apart from sourcing a Rover 2000 replacement [or having the old booster overhauled], fitting an aftermarket brake booster is a simple, routine job for any brake service workshop - very cost effective too.
> 
>> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
>> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4	Castrol LMA
>> 
>> 
>> Dear friends,
>> 
>> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
>> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
>> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
>> 
>> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
>> 
>> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
>> 
>> 
>> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
>> not.
>> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
>> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.
>> 
>> Please have a look at this link:
>> 
>> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
>> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
>> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
>> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 
>> 
>> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
> 		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111104/11a98254/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sat Nov  5 13:24:06 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 18:24:06 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
 Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <ABCDB312-0089-4227-B878-F2587D844C35@inkspotco.com>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>,
	<BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>,
	<ABCDB312-0089-4227-B878-F2587D844C35@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W92448D3CB09B544BE2AFCB8DB0@phx.gbl>


First time I've heard a brake master cylinder referred to as a brake pump.  Oh well, one lives and learns.

> From: vern at inkspotco.com
> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:13:42 -0700
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4	Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> A new brake booster isn't going to help if the master cylinder is trash, which seems to be the diagnosis.
> 
> Yours
> Vern
> 
> 
> On 2011-11-04, at 11:14 AM, Richard Sharpe wrote:
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Apart from sourcing a Rover 2000 replacement [or having the old booster overhauled], fitting an aftermarket brake booster is a simple, routine job for any brake service workshop - very cost effective too.
> > 
> >> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
> >> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> >> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4	Castrol LMA
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Dear friends,
> >> 
> >> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
> >> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
> >> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
> >> 
> >> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
> >> 
> >> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
> >> not.
> >> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
> >> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.
> >> 
> >> Please have a look at this link:
> >> 
> >> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
> >> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
> >> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
> >> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 
> >> 
> >> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
> >> 
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
> >> **************************************
> >> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >> 
> > 		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111104/11a98254/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/1eef6fa7/attachment.html>

From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Sat Nov  5 14:17:58 2011
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (jaguru at bellsouth.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 15:17:58 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
	Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W92448D3CB09B544BE2AFCB8DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>,
	<BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>,
	<ABCDB312-0089-4227-B878-F2587D844C35@inkspotco.com>
	<BLU157-W92448D3CB09B544BE2AFCB8DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B06BB3297B524418AB22282477BB6DC7@JamesDeanPC1>

Isn't the brake master cylinder of a 3500S the same as series III Etype? 
Series I/II 4.2 looks the same , and I believe works, though the bore may be 
different. I do have a core, probably from a 3500S; I suggest simply sending 
it to Apple Hydraulics in New York. They stainless steel sleeve, rebuild it, 
and guarantee it. I deal with Lazar up there, I think he is option 4 on 
their phone. James Dean, Ft. Lauderdale  jaguru at bellsouth.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 
Castrol LMA


>
>
> First time I've heard a brake master cylinder referred to as a brake pump. 
> Oh well, one lives and learns.
>
>> From: vern at inkspotco.com
>> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:13:42 -0700
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid 
>> DOT 4 Castrol LMA
>>
>>
>> A new brake booster isn't going to help if the master cylinder is trash, 
>> which seems to be the diagnosis.
>>
>> Yours
>> Vern
>>
>>
>> On 2011-11-04, at 11:14 AM, Richard Sharpe wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Apart from sourcing a Rover 2000 replacement [or having the old booster 
>> > overhauled], fitting an aftermarket brake booster is a simple, routine 
>> > job for any brake service workshop - very cost effective too.
>> >
>> >> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
>> >> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
>> >> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> >> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 
>> >> 4 Castrol LMA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Dear friends,
>> >>
>> >> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
>> >> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till 
>> >> the
>> >> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
>> >>
>> >> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
>> >>
>> >> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
>> >> not.
>> >> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
>> >> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover 
>> >> discovery.
>> >>
>> >> Please have a look at this link:
>> >>
>> >> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
>> >> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
>> >> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
>> >> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5>
>> >>
>> >> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
>> >>
>> >> -------------- next part --------------
>> >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> >> URL: 
>> >> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
>> >> **************************************
>> >> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> >>
>> >
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > URL: 
>> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111104/11a98254/attachment.html>
>> > **************************************
>> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> >
>>
>> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/1eef6fa7/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From pierrejanusz at hotmail.co.uk  Sat Nov  5 14:49:19 2011
From: pierrejanusz at hotmail.co.uk (pierre janusz)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 19:49:19 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
 Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <B06BB3297B524418AB22282477BB6DC7@JamesDeanPC1>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>, ,
	<BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<ABCDB312-0089-4227-B878-F2587D844C35@inkspotco.com>,
	<BLU157-W92448D3CB09B544BE2AFCB8DB0@phx.gbl>,
	<B06BB3297B524418AB22282477BB6DC7@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <SNT142-W510286F6829B03507E700392DB0@phx.gbl>


Dear James,
 
You are talking about NADA cars and V8 ones at that. Gianluca is in Italy and has a 4 cylinder P6 with single circuit brakes (like early N. American 2000s and 2000TCs).
 
By the way, I hope to be able to drop by next February when I am coming to Fort Lauderdale for a cruise.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
 

> From: jaguru at bellsouth.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 15:17:58 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> Isn't the brake master cylinder of a 3500S the same as series III Etype? 
> Series I/II 4.2 looks the same , and I believe works, though the bore may be 
> different. I do have a core, probably from a 3500S; I suggest simply sending 
> it to Apple Hydraulics in New York. They stainless steel sleeve, rebuild it, 
> and guarantee it. I deal with Lazar up there, I think he is option 4 on 
> their phone. James Dean, Ft. Lauderdale jaguru at bellsouth.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
> To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 2:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 
> Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> >
> >
> > First time I've heard a brake master cylinder referred to as a brake pump. 
> > Oh well, one lives and learns.
> >
> >> From: vern at inkspotco.com
> >> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:13:42 -0700
> >> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid 
> >> DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> >>
> >>
> >> A new brake booster isn't going to help if the master cylinder is trash, 
> >> which seems to be the diagnosis.
> >>
> >> Yours
> >> Vern
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2011-11-04, at 11:14 AM, Richard Sharpe wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Apart from sourcing a Rover 2000 replacement [or having the old booster 
> >> > overhauled], fitting an aftermarket brake booster is a simple, routine 
> >> > job for any brake service workshop - very cost effective too.
> >> >
> >> >> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
> >> >> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> >> >> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> >> >> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 
> >> >> 4 Castrol LMA
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Dear friends,
> >> >>
> >> >> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
> >> >> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till 
> >> >> the
> >> >> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
> >> >>
> >> >> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
> >> >>
> >> >> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
> >> >> not.
> >> >> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
> >> >> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover 
> >> >> discovery.
> >> >>
> >> >> Please have a look at this link:
> >> >>
> >> >> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
> >> >> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
> >> >> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
> >> >> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5>
> >> >>
> >> >> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
> >> >>
> >> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> >> URL: 
> >> >> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
> >> >> **************************************
> >> >> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> >> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> > -------------- next part --------------
> >> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> > URL: 
> >> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111104/11a98254/attachment.html>
> >> > **************************************
> >> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> >> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >> >
> >>
> >> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> **************************************
> >> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >>
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: 
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/1eef6fa7/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/831fb9aa/attachment.html>

From pierrejanusz at hotmail.co.uk  Sat Nov  5 14:50:29 2011
From: pierrejanusz at hotmail.co.uk (pierre janusz)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 19:50:29 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4
 Castrol LMA
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W92448D3CB09B544BE2AFCB8DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95960115E775@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>, ,
	<BLU157-W146825094128D9D29C44FAB8DA0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<ABCDB312-0089-4227-B878-F2587D844C35@inkspotco.com>,
	<BLU157-W92448D3CB09B544BE2AFCB8DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT142-W486AD1BFB3FFE4F392B3B992DB0@phx.gbl>


Italians call the brake master cylinder "pompa", so that's why Gianluca says pump.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
 

> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 18:24:06 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've heard a brake master cylinder referred to as a brake pump. Oh well, one lives and learns.
> 
> > From: vern at inkspotco.com
> > Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:13:42 -0700
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> > 
> > 
> > A new brake booster isn't going to help if the master cylinder is trash, which seems to be the diagnosis.
> > 
> > Yours
> > Vern
> > 
> > 
> > On 2011-11-04, at 11:14 AM, Richard Sharpe wrote:
> > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Apart from sourcing a Rover 2000 replacement [or having the old booster overhauled], fitting an aftermarket brake booster is a simple, routine job for any brake service workshop - very cost effective too.
> > > 
> > >> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:40:09 +0100
> > >> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> > >> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > >> Subject: [Rovernet ] I: I: Rover p6 brake pump - R: I: brake fluid DOT 4 Castrol LMA
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> Dear friends,
> > >> 
> > >> The mechanic says, and I agree, that the trouble is the not air or the
> > >> old fluid, but the pump because pushing the pedal it goes down till the
> > >> end, so probably I will have to replace it.
> > >> 
> > >> Do you know the price of a new pump? Which ones do you use?
> > >> 
> > >> Chassis number of the car is 44902759C, year 1973.
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> Land rover ones are very cheap, but I do not know if they will fit or
> > >> not.
> > >> A friend of mine, who is changing the pump in these days on his 1974
> > >> 2200 TC, told me that the pump is the same of the Land Rover discovery.
> > >> 
> > >> Please have a look at this link:
> > >> 
> > >> http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-ser
> > >> ie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5
> > >> <http://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-dei-freni-per-land-rover-serie-88-e-109-se
> > >> rie-3-/140597612709?pt=Ricambi_automobili&hash=item20bc4550a5> 
> > >> 
> > >> Any suggestion will be appreciated.
> > >> 
> > >> 
> > >> Thanks in advance and best regards , GR.
> > >> 
> > >> -------------- next part --------------
> > >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > >> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111103/c2a7b95c/attachment.html>
> > >> **************************************
> > >> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > >> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > >> 
> > > 
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111104/11a98254/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> > 
> > Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/1eef6fa7/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/696dffca/attachment.html>

From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sat Nov  5 18:57:46 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>

Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts.  Reason (
I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some slack
in an inertia reel belt.  Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
face is closer to cockpit structures...
Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2


Re P6B question.

In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan  Inertial Reel seat belts
off the shelf.  You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.

rgds Mike


> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
> Message-ID:
> ? ? ? ?<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hello All,
>
>
>
> Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>


> I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>

>
>
>
> Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
> frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>
>
>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Sat Nov  5 20:29:19 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 22:29:19 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>


I tend to agree..however they are not supposed to be worn any tighter than the thickness of your fist at chest level..I remember that being the rule to properly wear this type of seatbelts when they originally came out...that allowed the driver a bit of moving around room and still gave impact saftey..Worn too loosley you can be sure you will be hurt worse than not having it on at all...fortunatly ...so far I have yet to test this out..
 
 Regards
 
 Dennis
 

> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
> 
> 
> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts. Reason (
> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some slack
> in an inertia reel belt. Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
> face is closer to cockpit structures...
> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
> 
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
> 
> 
> Re P6B question.
> 
> In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan Inertial Reel seat belts
> off the shelf. You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
> adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.
> 
> rgds Mike
> 
> 
> > From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
> > To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
> > Message-ID:
> >        <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
> >
> 
> 
> > I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
> >
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
> > frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
> >
> >
> >
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/028f8381/attachment.html>

From vern at inkspotco.com  Sat Nov  5 20:43:57 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 18:43:57 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
	<BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <74F26AAF-7CE7-4640-ABDE-0AEED6A47888@inkspotco.com>

I believe that all modern cars have pretensioner pyrotechnics that take up any slack during a impact. They are fired by the same sensor system as the airbags.

Yours
Vern


On 2011-11-05, at 6:29 PM, Dennis . wrote:

> 
> 
> I tend to agree..however they are not supposed to be worn any tighter than the thickness of your fist at chest level..I remember that being the rule to properly wear this type of seatbelts when they originally came out...that allowed the driver a bit of moving around room and still gave impact saftey..Worn too loosley you can be sure you will be hurt worse than not having it on at all...fortunatly ...so far I have yet to test this out..
> 
> Regards
> 
> Dennis
> 
> 
>> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
>> 
>> 
>> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts. Reason (
>> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some slack
>> in an inertia reel belt. Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
>> face is closer to cockpit structures...
>> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
>> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>> 
>> AvMedSafe
>> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
>> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
>> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
>> Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
>> 
>> 
>> Re P6B question.
>> 
>> In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan Inertial Reel seat belts
>> off the shelf. You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
>> adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.
>> 
>> rgds Mike
>> 
>> 
>>> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
>>> Message-ID:
>>>       <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>> 
>>> Hello All,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
>>> frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
>> 
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
> 		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/028f8381/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Sat Nov  5 21:38:26 2011
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (jaguru at bellsouth.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 22:38:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
	<BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0EAFB2E06AC74C92A7E8F3826695F1A5@JamesDeanPC1>

About 30 years ago. I was stopped at a light in a 2000TC, when a drunken 
lady celebrating her birthday plowed into me at about 40 MPH from behind. I 
had an ET headrest and  factory Irving Airchute 3 point seat belt fairly 
snug. The boot lid and fenders were pushed in about a foot. The front of the 
seat tore out of the floor, and I was then leaning against the back seat, 
still strapped in my seat. Today the rear of the car would be called an 
impact zone. I had no pain and no injury. the police took the lady away. The 
next day I wrote up a $1200 estimate on my restoration shop work order, and 
called her insurance company. Her adjuster came out the following day, asked 
me several times if I was all right, approved the repair estimate, made me 
sign a statement that I was not injutred and would not sue, He then handed 
me the $1200 check. I drove to the bank and cashed it, then came back to the 
shop.  I unbolted the rear fenders and boot  lid, hammered the boot side 
panels, and latch panel below the lid a little. I unbolted fenders and boot 
lid from a parts car the same color in my back yard, put washers and plates 
under the floor, to rebolt the seat; and was finished. This all took about 4 
hours.. Those were the days!. I agreed with Ralph Naders' statement, that 
"All cars should be built like this"
     Today I would probably do things differently; but then I just reflected 
how smart and lucky (I felt) I had been with my windfall..  I still have 
great respect for that seat and seatbelt combination. James Dean
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis ." <renovations.plus at hotmail.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?


>
>
> I tend to agree..however they are not supposed to be worn any tighter than 
> the thickness of your fist at chest level..I remember that being the rule 
> to properly wear this type of seatbelts when they originally came 
> out...that allowed the driver a bit of moving around room and still gave 
> impact saftey..Worn too loosley you can be sure you will be hurt worse 
> than not having it on at all...fortunatly ...so far I have yet to test 
> this out..
>
> Regards
>
> Dennis
>
>
>> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
>>
>>
>> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts. Reason 
>> (
>> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some 
>> slack
>> in an inertia reel belt. Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
>> face is closer to cockpit structures...
>> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
>> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>>
>> AvMedSafe
>> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
>> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
>> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] 
>> On
>> Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
>>
>>
>> Re P6B question.
>>
>> In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan Inertial Reel seat belts
>> off the shelf. You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
>> adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.
>>
>> rgds Mike
>>
>>
>> > From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
>> > To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> > Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
>> > Message-ID:
>> >        <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Hello All,
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>> >
>>
>>
>> > I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>> >
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
>> > frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111105/028f8381/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sat Nov  5 23:53:17 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 21:53:17 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <74F26AAF-7CE7-4640-ABDE-0AEED6A47888@inkspotco.com>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>	<BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
	<74F26AAF-7CE7-4640-ABDE-0AEED6A47888@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <008a01cc9c40$009b27b0$01d17710$@net>

Some, but far from all. I would guess that most of the more expensive
European cars have pre-tension capability. Few US made cars do, AFAIK.
Non-Rover story: Pre-tension technology originated in ejection seats, but
for a different reason:  Early ejection seats used simple pyrotechnic
charges - 37mm shells, essentially.  This resulted in a severe
jolt-acceleration to the spine, causing about 40% compression fractures.
But, if the spine is aligned vertically, the chance of compression fracture
is greatly reduced. Now, pulling the ejection handle fires a first pyro,
which tightens the belt, then the rocket catapult motor ignites, and later
the sustainer motor. All of this takes about 1.5 seconds or less. Plus the
rocket motors' burn characteristic is designed to apply the acceleration at
a rate (the jolt)that the spine will tolerate.
AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Vern Klukas
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 6:44 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?


I believe that all modern cars have pretensioner pyrotechnics that take up
any slack during a impact. They are fired by the same sensor system as the
airbags.

Yours
Vern


On 2011-11-05, at 6:29 PM, Dennis . wrote:

> 
> 
> I tend to agree..however they are not supposed to be worn any tighter than
the thickness of your fist at chest level..I remember that being the rule to
properly wear this type of seatbelts when they originally came out...that
allowed the driver a bit of moving around room and still gave impact
saftey..Worn too loosley you can be sure you will be hurt worse than not
having it on at all...fortunatly ...so far I have yet to test this out..
> 
> Regards
> 
> Dennis
> 
> 
>> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
>> 
>> 
>> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts. Reason
(
>> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some
slack
>> in an inertia reel belt. Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
>> face is closer to cockpit structures...
>> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
>> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>> 
>> AvMedSafe
>> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
>> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
>> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
>> Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
>> 
>> 
>> Re P6B question.
>> 
>> In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan Inertial Reel seat belts
>> off the shelf. You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
>> adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.
>> 
>> rgds Mike
>> 
>> 
>>> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
>>> Message-ID:
>>>       <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>> 
>>> Hello All,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
>>> frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
>> 
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
> 		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011110
5/028f8381/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com





**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From vern at inkspotco.com  Sun Nov  6 00:12:13 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 22:12:13 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <008a01cc9c40$009b27b0$01d17710$@net>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>	<BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
	<74F26AAF-7CE7-4640-ABDE-0AEED6A47888@inkspotco.com>
	<008a01cc9c40$009b27b0$01d17710$@net>
Message-ID: <E913AD95-AB0A-4A4C-B28A-F9B168C0F1BD@inkspotco.com>

My 2006 Ford Focus has pretensioners on the front seat belts.

Yours
Vern

On 2011-11-05, at 9:53 PM, Geff McCarthy wrote:

> 
> Some, but far from all. I would guess that most of the more expensive
> European cars have pre-tension capability. Few US made cars do, AFAIK.
> Non-Rover story: Pre-tension technology originated in ejection seats, but
> for a different reason:  Early ejection seats used simple pyrotechnic
> charges - 37mm shells, essentially.  This resulted in a severe
> jolt-acceleration to the spine, causing about 40% compression fractures.
> But, if the spine is aligned vertically, the chance of compression fracture
> is greatly reduced. Now, pulling the ejection handle fires a first pyro,
> which tightens the belt, then the rocket catapult motor ignites, and later
> the sustainer motor. All of this takes about 1.5 seconds or less. Plus the
> rocket motors' burn characteristic is designed to apply the acceleration at
> a rate (the jolt)that the spine will tolerate.
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Vern Klukas
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 6:44 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
> 
> 
> I believe that all modern cars have pretensioner pyrotechnics that take up
> any slack during a impact. They are fired by the same sensor system as the
> airbags.
> 
> Yours
> Vern
> 
> 
> On 2011-11-05, at 6:29 PM, Dennis . wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> I tend to agree..however they are not supposed to be worn any tighter than
> the thickness of your fist at chest level..I remember that being the rule to
> properly wear this type of seatbelts when they originally came out...that
> allowed the driver a bit of moving around room and still gave impact
> saftey..Worn too loosley you can be sure you will be hurt worse than not
> having it on at all...fortunatly ...so far I have yet to test this out..
>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> Dennis
>> 
>> 
>>> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>>> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts. Reason
> (
>>> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some
> slack
>>> in an inertia reel belt. Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
>>> face is closer to cockpit structures...
>>> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
>>> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>>> 
>>> AvMedSafe
>>> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
>>> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
>>> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
>>> Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Re P6B question.
>>> 
>>> In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan Inertial Reel seat belts
>>> off the shelf. You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
>>> adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.
>>> 
>>> rgds Mike
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
>>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
>>>> Message-ID:
>>>>      <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>> 
>>>> Hello All,
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
>>>> frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>> 
>> 		 	   		  
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011110
> 5/028f8381/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
> 
> Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sun Nov  6 01:16:59 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 00:16:59 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <E913AD95-AB0A-4A4C-B28A-F9B168C0F1BD@inkspotco.com>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>	<BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>	<74F26AAF-7CE7-4640-ABDE-0AEED6A47888@inkspotco.com>	<008a01cc9c40$009b27b0$01d17710$@net>
	<E913AD95-AB0A-4A4C-B28A-F9B168C0F1BD@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <009701cc9c54$1385e630$3a91b290$@net>

Thanks, Vern.  If I ever buy a newer car, I shall choose one with
pretensioners and auto-forward head rests.

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Vern Klukas
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 10:12 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?


My 2006 Ford Focus has pretensioners on the front seat belts.

Yours
Vern

On 2011-11-05, at 9:53 PM, Geff McCarthy wrote:

> 
> Some, but far from all. I would guess that most of the more expensive
> European cars have pre-tension capability. Few US made cars do, AFAIK.
> Non-Rover story: Pre-tension technology originated in ejection seats, but
> for a different reason:  Early ejection seats used simple pyrotechnic
> charges - 37mm shells, essentially.  This resulted in a severe
> jolt-acceleration to the spine, causing about 40% compression fractures.
> But, if the spine is aligned vertically, the chance of compression
fracture
> is greatly reduced. Now, pulling the ejection handle fires a first pyro,
> which tightens the belt, then the rocket catapult motor ignites, and later
> the sustainer motor. All of this takes about 1.5 seconds or less. Plus the
> rocket motors' burn characteristic is designed to apply the acceleration
at
> a rate (the jolt)that the spine will tolerate.
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Vern Klukas
> Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 6:44 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
> 
> 
> I believe that all modern cars have pretensioner pyrotechnics that take up
> any slack during a impact. They are fired by the same sensor system as the
> airbags.
> 
> Yours
> Vern
> 
> 
> On 2011-11-05, at 6:29 PM, Dennis . wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> I tend to agree..however they are not supposed to be worn any tighter
than
> the thickness of your fist at chest level..I remember that being the rule
to
> properly wear this type of seatbelts when they originally came out...that
> allowed the driver a bit of moving around room and still gave impact
> saftey..Worn too loosley you can be sure you will be hurt worse than not
> having it on at all...fortunatly ...so far I have yet to test this out..
>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> Dennis
>> 
>> 
>>> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>>> Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 16:57:46 -0700
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts. Reason
> (
>>> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some
> slack
>>> in an inertia reel belt. Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
>>> face is closer to cockpit structures...
>>> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
>>> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>>> 
>>> AvMedSafe
>>> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
>>> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
>>> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
>>> Behalf Of Mike Shaddick
>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 10:05 PM
>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 139, Issue 2
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Re P6B question.
>>> 
>>> In Australia (at least) you can get Clippan Inertial Reel seat belts
>>> off the shelf. You can fit, also, rear inertial reel belts with some
>>> adequate steel reinforcement behind the seats.
>>> 
>>> rgds Mike
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
>>>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: [RoverAustralia] Rover P6B question
>>>> Message-ID:
>>>>      <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DB5A at Server.adoptsec.local>
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>>> 
>>>> Hello All,
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Anyone able to help Ken with his inquiries concerning his P6.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> I have a Cameron Green P6B V8 first registered Sept 1972.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Also I have to replace the front seatbelts as one is getting very
>>>> frayed. Is it possible to retrofit inertia reels to these P6s ?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>> 
>> 		 	   		  
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011110
> 5/028f8381/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
> 
> Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com





**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sun Nov  6 01:21:22 2011
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 17:51:22 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
Message-ID: <4EB63572.6090002@ozemail.com.au>

Geff, your comments remind me of parachute harnesses we had to wear at 
times on board RAAF Lockheed P3 Orions.

If you could stand upright, IT WAS TOO LOOSE!

You had to pull them tight enough so that you stooped significantly as 
you walked.
The reason - the two thick leather straps from the back to the front at 
the top of your legs passed either side of your crown jewels.
If too loose, they would come together with a guillotine action under 
your weight when the 'chute deployed.
You can imagine the rest .....
;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

On 11/6/2011 10:27 AM, Geff McCarthy wrote:
>
> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts.  Reason (
> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some slack
> in an inertia reel belt.  Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
> face is closer to cockpit structures...
> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
<snip>


From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sun Nov  6 01:40:30 2011
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 18:10:30 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <008a01cc9c40$009b27b0$01d17710$@net>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>	<BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
	<74F26AAF-7CE7-4640-ABDE-0AEED6A47888@inkspotco.com>
	<008a01cc9c40$009b27b0$01d17710$@net>
Message-ID: <4EB639EE.2080407@ozemail.com.au>

The Mirage Martin Baker ejection seats used to have a face blind fitted 
that was blown down over your face by another pyrotechnic charge to 
protect your eyes from being blown out of the back of your head by the 
sudden exposure to the high speed slipstream!
AFAIK, there could also be charges that severed the control column and 
pulled loops around your ankles to tuck your feet in!

The canopy breaker horns on the upper rear of the seat were intended to 
clear a hole in the canopy large enough to prevent your kneecaps from 
damage on exit.

All in all, ejection would have been a most noisy and painful experience.

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

On 11/6/2011 3:23 PM, Geff McCarthy wrote:
>
> Some, but far from all. I would guess that most of the more expensive
> European cars have pre-tension capability. Few US made cars do, AFAIK.
> Non-Rover story: Pre-tension technology originated in ejection seats, but
> for a different reason:  Early ejection seats used simple pyrotechnic
> charges - 37mm shells, essentially.  This resulted in a severe
> jolt-acceleration to the spine, causing about 40% compression fractures.
> But, if the spine is aligned vertically, the chance of compression fracture
> is greatly reduced. Now, pulling the ejection handle fires a first pyro,
> which tightens the belt, then the rocket catapult motor ignites, and later
> the sustainer motor. All of this takes about 1.5 seconds or less. Plus the
> rocket motors' burn characteristic is designed to apply the acceleration at
> a rate (the jolt)that the spine will tolerate.
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
<snip>


From RoverP6 at gmx.de  Sun Nov  6 03:43:43 2011
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 10:43:43 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] NADA P6 3500 S
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>,
	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net><BAY145-W5397D89BD9C959FC95CE1595D80@phx.gbl>
	<0EAFB2E06AC74C92A7E8F3826695F1A5@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <FE41B141230D4C52AD9CD1E0E040D0AA@rw>


http://quanticchaos1000.deviantart.com/art/Rover-3500-S-179766078

Owner known?

Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info



From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Sun Nov  6 11:26:20 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 09:26:20 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?
In-Reply-To: <4EB63572.6090002@ozemail.com.au>
References: <mailman.3.1320253232.16739.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>	<CAOxvdN+KW=SnNmW2Y_pN-SrNj0aNcCQmdkaxD3HqbJ2WBweDjw@mail.gmail.com>	<008001cc9c16$b817c1c0$28474540$@net>
	<4EB63572.6090002@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <00c701cc9ca9$336f25b0$9a4d7110$@net>

Dave, having spent 4000h tied into various types of parachutes, both seat
mounted and Geff-mounted - but devoutly avoiding ever using one - I remember
the pain very well!

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of David Read
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 12:21 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Inertia belts?


Geff, your comments remind me of parachute harnesses we had to wear at 
times on board RAAF Lockheed P3 Orions.

If you could stand upright, IT WAS TOO LOOSE!

You had to pull them tight enough so that you stooped significantly as 
you walked.
The reason - the two thick leather straps from the back to the front at 
the top of your legs passed either side of your crown jewels.
If too loose, they would come together with a guillotine action under 
your weight when the 'chute deployed.
You can imagine the rest .....
;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

On 11/6/2011 10:27 AM, Geff McCarthy wrote:
>
> Even if possible, I would retain the manual, aircraft-type belts.  Reason
(
> I have some expertise in human impact tolerance): there is always some
slack
> in an inertia reel belt.  Thus at the start of the accident impact, your
> face is closer to cockpit structures...
> Worn tightly, the simple belts probably give better face-neck-torso
> protection. I emphasize: WORN TIGHTLY!
>
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
<snip>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Mon Nov  7 14:59:56 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 12:59:56 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement
Message-ID: <BLU154-W62FDBA362A4AECCF6CDD1D9ED90@phx.gbl>

Hello

I need a passenger side NADA 3500S door. It does not need to have any trim, just elec windows functional or repairable. Minor dings are ok, but not major metalworm.

I am in San Diego, but shipping should not be a problem.

Thanks
Adrian
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111107/da4e1046/attachment.html>

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Mon Nov  7 16:49:31 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 17:49:31 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W62FDBA362A4AECCF6CDD1D9ED90@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W62FDBA362A4AECCF6CDD1D9ED90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <22267C794AE24495978AF2EB0D1FB6E4@SD1>

Adrian,

If you mean the right front door then I have two of them. One has a dent in
the front where the door was opened too far but can be repaired and the
other is straight. I could not get the window lift motor to work on the one
with the dent but when I put power to the other it did move a bit. Both
doors have been sitting for a long time so they will need to be stripped and
brought back to a smooth finish. The better door is still on the car so I
will have to swap them if that is the one you want. Call me if you are
interested 434-842-3667 or email me direct at bsaunders at firstva.com.
Ben

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 4:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement


Hello

I need a passenger side NADA 3500S door. It does not need to have any trim,
just elec windows functional or repairable. Minor dings are ok, but not
major metalworm.

I am in San Diego, but shipping should not be a problem.

Thanks
Adrian
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011110
7/da4e1046/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4602 - Release Date: 11/07/11



From den at aachenkennels.com  Mon Nov  7 16:53:54 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 07:53:54 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: dancing baby
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DBD2@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hello Chaps,

I know we are here for the cars but go and get the house Gov'ner and
watch this.

Den.

 

http://youtu.be/xSdZ6akE02I

 

Regards.

Chris Gallacher

 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111108/96f50f37/attachment.html>

From den at aachenkennels.com  Mon Nov  7 17:01:30 2011
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 08:01:30 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet ] FW: dancing baby
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1617DBD3@Server.adoptsec.local>

Morning Chaps,

 

Short question, My wife and I will be going on Hols to New Delhi India
end of next week. Two hours of sightseeing and shopping is enough for me
so I'm in desperate need of  a person over there who is into Rovers or
any kind of car stuff. If you know of someone or a place to check out
please send to the list.

 

BTW I know this list is for Rovers but please check out the baby
dancing, show the house Gov'ner and you might get a cup of tea brought
to the garage.

 

Den.

 

From: Christine Gallacher 
Sent: Monday, 7 November 2011 9:30 PM
To: Dennis Gallacher
Subject: dancing baby

 

http://youtu.be/xSdZ6akE02I

 

Regards.

Chris Gallacher

 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111108/f2db261c/attachment.html>

From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Mon Nov  7 20:44:54 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 18:44:54 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement
In-Reply-To: <22267C794AE24495978AF2EB0D1FB6E4@SD1>
References: <BLU154-W62FDBA362A4AECCF6CDD1D9ED90@phx.gbl>,
	<22267C794AE24495978AF2EB0D1FB6E4@SD1>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W395E3F6368811A3D594D799EDE0@phx.gbl>

Hi Ben and all

I must have been in cloud cuckoo land. What I meant to say is rear drivers side door!!! Er nearly right. What I was thinking I do not know. Sorry about that, maybe trying to type on this stupid iPhone invoked auto word replacement from "left rear" to "passenger".  Hmm

it's still crushed though!

Adrian

> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 17:49:31 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement
> 
> 
> Adrian,
> 
> If you mean the right front door then I have two of them. One has a dent in
> the front where the door was opened too far but can be repaired and the
> other is straight. I could not get the window lift motor to work on the one
> with the dent but when I put power to the other it did move a bit. Both
> doors have been sitting for a long time so they will need to be stripped and
> brought back to a smooth finish. The better door is still on the car so I
> will have to swap them if that is the one you want. Call me if you are
> interested 434-842-3667 or email me direct at bsaunders at firstva.com.
> Ben
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 4:00 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> I need a passenger side NADA 3500S door. It does not need to have any trim,
> just elec windows functional or repairable. Minor dings are ok, but not
> major metalworm.
> 
> I am in San Diego, but shipping should not be a problem.
> 
> Thanks
> Adrian
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011110
> 7/da4e1046/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4602 - Release Date: 11/07/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111107/894ef8a8/attachment.html>

From kkinard at att.net  Tue Nov  8 07:21:26 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 07:21:26 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door crushed need replacement
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W395E3F6368811A3D594D799EDE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W62FDBA362A4AECCF6CDD1D9ED90@phx.gbl>,
	<22267C794AE24495978AF2EB0D1FB6E4@SD1>
	<BLU154-W395E3F6368811A3D594D799EDE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4EB92CD6.8050401@att.net>

Hi Adrian,
I have doors. Email me off list.
Roverly,
Kent K.

Adrian McDonald wrote:
> Hi Ben and all
>
> I must have been in cloud cuckoo land. What I meant to say is rear drivers side door!!! Er nearly right. What I was thinking I do not know. Sorry about that, maybe trying to type on this stupid iPhone invoked auto word replacement from "left rear" to "passenger".  Hmm
>
> it's still crushed though!
>
> Adrian
>    



From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Tue Nov  8 16:01:13 2011
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 22:01:13 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P3 parts
Message-ID: <BAY153-W2869349E96D81C1D94CB99DEDE0@phx.gbl>


I'll try on here first before using EBay..............I've come across some extra P3 parts i had lying around
!.   New chrome Rover P3 also may possibly fit P2 rad cap 
2.   New  P3 chrome sunroof handle.....also fits Jags and few other Brit cars
3.   New head gasket set for Rover 75 P3
4.   6 NGK  B5ES sparks plugs for Rover 75
5.   New Halls exhaust manifold gaskets for the 75
6.  4  New inner window fuzzy strips for all P3 models.....will fit many other models too if trimmed to size
7.  New fan belt for Rover 75
8.  New Panel light or interior light switch....not sure but may also be used for petrol reserve 
9 .  2  good wiper motor gears 
10.   Jaeger Clock for P3 may also fit P2....working when removed
11.  NOS Master cylinder rebuild kit
12. New clutch pedal  oil seal.....fits all 1948-53 Rover 60, 75. P4 75 and 90
13. New gearbox tailshaft oil seal      fits both P3 models 60 and 75
14. used gearbox cover......need to remove to adjust gear selector arm....don't ask how i got spare one
15. Set of good P3 front springs
16. Original?? 1948 Rover P3 instruction manual     good condition
17.  New 1948 Rover P3 Workshop manual.....both models.....by the Rover Sports Register  
I'd love to sell them all in one bundle but if i get no takers i'll piece them out on EBay..........I'm thinking if i sell them all at once i'll take $125.00 plus whatever it costs to ship     seems very fair to meI'm in Oshawa Ontario CanadaCheersBill Robertson
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111108/489c6dba/attachment.html>

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Tue Nov  8 16:43:28 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 17:43:28 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P3 parts
In-Reply-To: <BAY153-W2869349E96D81C1D94CB99DEDE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY153-W2869349E96D81C1D94CB99DEDE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <74E9D7AA9884493B97E2D2EA3D9993B4@SD1>

Hi Bill,

Thank you for the kind offer. I am interested in some of the parts but may
be willing to take the lot if the shipping is not too much. Please let me
know what it will cost to ship to zip code 23038 in the US.
Cheers,
Ben Saunders

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Bill Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 5:01 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P3 parts



I'll try on here first before using EBay..............I've come across some
extra P3 parts i had lying around
!.   New chrome Rover P3 also may possibly fit P2 rad cap 
2.   New  P3 chrome sunroof handle.....also fits Jags and few other Brit
cars
3.   New head gasket set for Rover 75 P3
4.   6 NGK  B5ES sparks plugs for Rover 75
5.   New Halls exhaust manifold gaskets for the 75
6.  4  New inner window fuzzy strips for all P3 models.....will fit many
other models too if trimmed to size
7.  New fan belt for Rover 75
8.  New Panel light or interior light switch....not sure but may also be
used for petrol reserve 
9 .  2  good wiper motor gears 
10.   Jaeger Clock for P3 may also fit P2....working when removed
11.  NOS Master cylinder rebuild kit
12. New clutch pedal  oil seal.....fits all 1948-53 Rover 60, 75. P4 75 and
90
13. New gearbox tailshaft oil seal      fits both P3 models 60 and 75
14. used gearbox cover......need to remove to adjust gear selector
arm....don't ask how i got spare one
15. Set of good P3 front springs
16. Original?? 1948 Rover P3 instruction manual     good condition
17.  New 1948 Rover P3 Workshop manual.....both models.....by the Rover
Sports Register  
I'd love to sell them all in one bundle but if i get no takers i'll piece
them out on EBay..........I'm thinking if i sell them all at once i'll take
$125.00 plus whatever it costs to ship     seems very fair to meI'm in
Oshawa Ontario CanadaCheersBill Robertson
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011110
8/489c6dba/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4604 - Release Date: 11/08/11



From irishrover1 at live.com  Thu Nov 10 12:11:42 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
Message-ID: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>


Hi Folks
          I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
                            Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>

From vern at inkspotco.com  Thu Nov 10 12:54:23 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 10:54:23 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AC05E239-142C-453C-BEDE-94E4F5B5F108@inkspotco.com>

Usually the studs are just pressed into the hub. With a piece of hardwood as a cushion, you should be able to just drive them out with a good blow of a small sledge hammer. An alternative would be to thread a lugnut almost all the way on and beat on that.

Yours
Vern

On 2011-11-10, at 10:11 AM, Frederick Ben Rodgers wrote:

> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>          I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
>                            Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From bsaunders at firstva.com  Thu Nov 10 13:28:29 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:28:29 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A8ED8560A0C249FB9CD714C9DC990213@SD1>

Ben,
Check to see if the threads in the two holes of the missing studs are any
good. They may have been stripped out when the stud was removed. When they
are put in at the factory they bash the inner end to keep them from coming
loose but that does not always work. That happened to several of the wheel
studs on my P3 so I changes all 20 to an American standard knurled stud with
standard 3/4" lug nuts. If the threads look good enough to be tightened let
me know and I will try to get two of them out of an axel I have and send
them to you. 
Cheers,
Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:12 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question



Hi Folks
          I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice
two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in
other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they
thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to
get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new
stud???
                            Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4607 - Release Date: 11/09/11



From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Thu Nov 10 13:58:14 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:58:14 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
Message-ID: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>

Hi

Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed. They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,

Thanks
Adrian

 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/3c7ddb78/attachment.html>

From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Thu Nov 10 15:39:24 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:39:24 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003301cc9ff1$37bf9960$a73ecc20$@net>

My 3500S was originally Brigade Red, but the painter said he wouldn't spray
lacquer anymore. It is finished in a virtually identical Chevy 2 pack.
Unauthentic, but practical.
In the past there have been many references to color codes, including
Brigade Red.  I'd search the Rovernet archives.

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 11:58 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???


Hi

Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this
color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed.
They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I
am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,

Thanks
Adrian

 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
0/3c7ddb78/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From renovations.plus at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 10 15:56:34 2011
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis .)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:56:34 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <003301cc9ff1$37bf9960$a73ecc20$@net>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>,
	<003301cc9ff1$37bf9960$a73ecc20$@net>
Message-ID: <BAY145-W49296860B9233EE9003C7A95DC0@phx.gbl>



 I had no trouble getting a color match for arden green ...just used my paint code and X references...perfect match.  However to be authentic ...I believe these were painted with enamel not lacquer...and they had a great depth to the look of the paint..
 
 Regards
 
 Dennis
 
 

> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:39:24 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
> 
> 
> My 3500S was originally Brigade Red, but the painter said he wouldn't spray
> lacquer anymore. It is finished in a virtually identical Chevy 2 pack.
> Unauthentic, but practical.
> In the past there have been many references to color codes, including
> Brigade Red. I'd search the Rovernet archives.
> 
> AvMedSafe
> Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
> 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
> 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 11:58 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this
> color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed.
> They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I
> am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,
> 
> Thanks
> Adrian
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 0/3c7ddb78/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/417b52c1/attachment.html>

From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Thu Nov 10 19:09:36 2011
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:09:36 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-W49296860B9233EE9003C7A95DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<003301cc9ff1$37bf9960$a73ecc20$@net>,
	<BAY145-W49296860B9233EE9003C7A95DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU154-W13951392BA4C4DB211E3189EDD0@phx.gbl>

A nice deep dark blue Lexus drove by today and gave me an idea to end the grief.....

Adrian

> From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:56:34 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  I had no trouble getting a color match for arden green ...just used my paint code and X references...perfect match.  However to be authentic ...I believe these were painted with enamel not lacquer...and they had a great depth to the look of the paint..
>  
>  Regards
>  
>  Dennis
>  
>  
> 
> > From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:39:24 -0800
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
> > 
> > 
> > My 3500S was originally Brigade Red, but the painter said he wouldn't spray
> > lacquer anymore. It is finished in a virtually identical Chevy 2 pack.
> > Unauthentic, but practical.
> > In the past there have been many references to color codes, including
> > Brigade Red. I'd search the Rovernet archives.
> > 
> > AvMedSafe
> > Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
> > 677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
> > 503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> > Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
> > Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 11:58 AM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
> > 
> > 
> > Hi
> > 
> > Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this
> > color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed.
> > They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I
> > am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Adrian
> > 
> > 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 0/3c7ddb78/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/417b52c1/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/8f32183f/attachment.html>

From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Thu Nov 10 22:03:51 2011
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 15:03:51 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com>

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:58:14 -0800, you wrote:

>
>Hi
>
>Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed. They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,

The Car Club Manual has the Dulux colour code if that is any use for
you. I cant find mine at the moment, but will ask someone else if you
need it.

Cheers,

Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster 
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/


From irishrover1 at live.com  Fri Nov 11 07:11:22 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:11:22 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <A8ED8560A0C249FB9CD714C9DC990213@SD1>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<A8ED8560A0C249FB9CD714C9DC990213@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W18CF039DDA5938A4368C1287DD0@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben
        Thanks for your kind offer of help, I have a few axles here so if I find one with a complete set of studs I'll use it, if not I'll try to get the studs out or possibly find some new ones.
                      Cheers Ben
Off to the Remembrance Day Parade, its pouring rain!!!!!

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:28:29 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> Ben,
> Check to see if the threads in the two holes of the missing studs are any
> good. They may have been stripped out when the stud was removed. When they
> are put in at the factory they bash the inner end to keep them from coming
> loose but that does not always work. That happened to several of the wheel
> studs on my P3 so I changes all 20 to an American standard knurled stud with
> standard 3/4" lug nuts. If the threads look good enough to be tightened let
> me know and I will try to get two of them out of an axel I have and send
> them to you. 
> Cheers,
> Ben
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:12 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice
> two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in
> other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they
> thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to
> get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new
> stud???
>                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4607 - Release Date: 11/09/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/b5221258/attachment.html>

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Fri Nov 11 07:50:43 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 08:50:43 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W18CF039DDA5938A4368C1287DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<A8ED8560A0C249FB9CD714C9DC990213@SD1>
	<COL111-W18CF039DDA5938A4368C1287DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5C63660CAF554D57B8701695F843A207@SD1>

Hi Ben,
When you go to remove any of the studs try to drill out the portion of the
back side where it was bashed in so that you will not strip the threads when
you remove it. A bit of heat on the hub never hurts either. Where are you
located in Canada? I know I have asked before but have forgotten. 

Ben 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 8:11 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question



Hi Ben
        Thanks for your kind offer of help, I have a few axles here so if I
find one with a complete set of studs I'll use it, if not I'll try to get
the studs out or possibly find some new ones.
                      Cheers Ben
Off to the Remembrance Day Parade, its pouring rain!!!!!

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:28:29 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> Ben,
> Check to see if the threads in the two holes of the missing studs are any
> good. They may have been stripped out when the stud was removed. When they
> are put in at the factory they bash the inner end to keep them from coming
> loose but that does not always work. That happened to several of the wheel
> studs on my P3 so I changes all 20 to an American standard knurled stud
with
> standard 3/4" lug nuts. If the threads look good enough to be tightened
let
> me know and I will try to get two of them out of an axel I have and send
> them to you. 
> Cheers,
> Ben
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:12 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't
notice
> two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in
> other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out,
they
> thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible
to
> get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new
> stud???
>                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4607 - Release Date: 11/09/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
1/b5221258/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4610 - Release Date: 11/11/11



From eightoone at comcast.net  Fri Nov 11 08:10:50 2011
From: eightoone at comcast.net (eightoone at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 14:10:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <1297157939.2194640.1321020650589.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Peter, From this site...http://www.roverP6.Info.........Brigade red listed as code #300 (Rov) and
		  #27635 (GL)....Glasurit color chart....Hope this helps (and is correct)....Ed K.

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Huttemeier <peterhut at activ8.net.au>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 04:03:51 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???


On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:58:14 -0800, you wrote:

>
>Hi
>
>Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed. They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,

The Car Club Manual has the Dulux colour code if that is any use for
you. I cant find mine at the moment, but will ask someone else if you
need it.

Cheers,

Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster 
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/f6373e19/attachment.html>

From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 11 13:21:49 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>


If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Folks
>           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
>                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>

From geffandjulie at comcast.net  Fri Nov 11 14:55:19 2011
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 12:55:19 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <003301cc9ff1$37bf9960$a73ecc20$@net>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>
	<003301cc9ff1$37bf9960$a73ecc20$@net>
Message-ID: <00ef01cca0b4$395968a0$ac0c39e0$@net>

On reflection, I think my car had a paint code label in the engine bay, with
the colour code on it.  Long gone...

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Geff McCarthy
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:39 PM
To: 'Rovernet'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???


My 3500S was originally Brigade Red, but the painter said he wouldn't spray
lacquer anymore. It is finished in a virtually identical Chevy 2 pack.
Unauthentic, but practical.
In the past there have been many references to color codes, including
Brigade Red.  I'd search the Rovernet archives.

AvMedSafe
Geoffrey W. McCarthy MD MBA DipAvMed
677 NW Melinda Ave Portland OR USA 97210
503-241-8468(h) 503-799-3809 (mobile)

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 11:58 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???


Hi

Anyone have any info on Brigade Red? I would like to do my respray in this
color but I can't find anything on it, and the body shop is non plussed.
They gave me a color wheel to try to choose but that was so overwhelming I
am back to square one!l and not optimistic from my research....,,

Thanks
Adrian

 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
0/3c7ddb78/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From irishrover1 at live.com  Fri Nov 11 15:19:54 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>


Hi Richard
              Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!! That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the wheel on!!!
                                         Cheers Ben

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> 
> > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
> >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/77ef860b/attachment.html>

From irishrover1 at live.com  Fri Nov 11 15:22:14 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:22:14 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <5C63660CAF554D57B8701695F843A207@SD1>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<A8ED8560A0C249FB9CD714C9DC990213@SD1>,
	<COL111-W18CF039DDA5938A4368C1287DD0@phx.gbl>,
	<5C63660CAF554D57B8701695F843A207@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W4248048D0AC05EC67EC5DF87DD0@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben
         I live on Prince Edward Island, Canada's smallest province where its raining very hard today. Got kinda wet this morning on remembrance day parade.
                           Cheers Ben

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 08:50:43 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> Hi Ben,
> When you go to remove any of the studs try to drill out the portion of the
> back side where it was bashed in so that you will not strip the threads when
> you remove it. A bit of heat on the hub never hurts either. Where are you
> located in Canada? I know I have asked before but have forgotten. 
> 
> Ben 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 8:11 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
>         Thanks for your kind offer of help, I have a few axles here so if I
> find one with a complete set of studs I'll use it, if not I'll try to get
> the studs out or possibly find some new ones.
>                       Cheers Ben
> Off to the Remembrance Day Parade, its pouring rain!!!!!
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:28:29 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > Ben,
> > Check to see if the threads in the two holes of the missing studs are any
> > good. They may have been stripped out when the stud was removed. When they
> > are put in at the factory they bash the inner end to keep them from coming
> > loose but that does not always work. That happened to several of the wheel
> > studs on my P3 so I changes all 20 to an American standard knurled stud
> with
> > standard 3/4" lug nuts. If the threads look good enough to be tightened
> let
> > me know and I will try to get two of them out of an axel I have and send
> > them to you. 
> > Cheers,
> > Ben
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:12 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Folks
> >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't
> notice
> > two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in
> > other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out,
> they
> > thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible
> to
> > get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new
> > stud???
> >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4607 - Release Date: 11/09/11
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 1/b5221258/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4610 - Release Date: 11/11/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/40f5f5a3/attachment.html>

From peterhut at activ8.net.au  Fri Nov 11 16:35:45 2011
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 09:35:45 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brigade Red ???
In-Reply-To: <pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl>
	<pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <3k8rb7pnigt1148lsvhfv7ikerbuq6bal3@4ax.com>

On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 15:03:51 +1100, you wrote:


>The Car Club Manual has the Dulux colour code 


It is:1966 to 1971 Brigade Red, Dulux shade number 11277.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Peter H


From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 12 10:47:51 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>,
	<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>


Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for your P4.CheersRichard

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Richard
>               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!! That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the wheel on!!!
>                                          Cheers Ben
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > 
> > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Folks
> > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
> > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > 
> > > *************
> > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > then
> > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111112/c9a734b8/attachment.html>

From kkinard at att.net  Sat Nov 12 12:15:40 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:15:40 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000 to 2200 Rebuild
Message-ID: <4EBEB7CC.40103@att.net>

Hi Netters,
I thought Vern would know the answer, but he didn't.  Somewhere in the 
"way back when" of Rovernet there was a thread about building a 2000 
block to 2200 spec.  Ian Wilson graciously sent me pistons and a "2.2" 
head.  I still need gaskets.  There was something about shaving the 
small end of the con rod but I don't know how much or if my memory is 
faulty.  I'm ready to build the short block and need to give the machine 
shop some guidance.  Vern said Ruth would know.  Ruth or anyone else, 
please help.

Roverly,
Kent K.


From allbritishcars at shaw.ca  Sat Nov 12 13:29:33 2011
From: allbritishcars at shaw.ca (Ruth Burgess)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 11:29:33 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000 to 2200 Rebuild
References: <4EBEB7CC.40103@att.net>
Message-ID: <DD9F75FE8ADB4E948675F4F08DCC6777@sherbrooke>

Kent
I have no figures for the machine shop even though we have done 12 2200 
updates. Both of Eric's and Art Bakers, Mine, Ken's, Phil Durber  and on the 
list goes -
Foremaning the job was not difficult;  because I had TWO marvelous 
adventurers -- Art Baker (having been a  Mechanical Engineer and a Marine 
Engineer with Deep Sea experience).and  Peter Heasters history and Machine 
shop abilities, (Having been a design engineer and Pattern Maker in 
England).
We always just sent the Original 2000 pistons on the Rods over to the 
Machine shop along with the 2200 pistons, He would dismantle the  pistons 
off the conrod, measure to the 100th Thou.The small end opening on the old 
piston ! They then proceeded to measure the new 2200 Piston opening and then 
take equal amounts off each side on the 2000 conrod - They installed the new 
2200 small end bushes,  balanced the rods, although Wayne (our machinist) 
often said he was always so amazed on the quality of the rods; that seldom 
they required any touching up!!. We then had Wayne install the pistons on 
the rods .
All pistons were individually measured and each piston bore in the block was 
then bored to the individual piston marked 1 - 4.
 Don't forget; because of  the material used in manufacturing AE pistons, 
DONOT use the rule of  thumb - (a thou clearance per inch.) Maximum 2 thou 
clearance is wanted on these pistons(There should be a sheet in the 2200 
piston box stating that.
Good luck Kent and Do enjoy the building up of the 2200 .LOTS of fun!! and a 
nice upgrade !!
As an aside - We always used the 2000 Rad with Oil cooler and had them 
recored with the extra line of vanes. Never overheated in our temperatures. 
I'm not sure about your heat tho- TEXAS HOT AIR you say??
Enough!!  I know you have waited a long time to enjoy this job !!
Ruth....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 10:15 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000 to 2200 Rebuild


>
> Hi Netters,
> I thought Vern would know the answer, but he didn't.  Somewhere in the 
> "way back when" of Rovernet there was a thread about building a 2000 block 
> to 2200 spec.  Ian Wilson graciously sent me pistons and a "2.2" head.  I 
> still need gaskets.  There was something about shaving the small end of 
> the con rod but I don't know how much or if my memory is faulty.  I'm 
> ready to build the short block and need to give the machine shop some 
> guidance.  Vern said Ruth would know.  Ruth or anyone else, please help.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> 


From kkinard at att.net  Sat Nov 12 16:06:39 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:06:39 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2000 to 2200 Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <DD9F75FE8ADB4E948675F4F08DCC6777@sherbrooke>
References: <4EBEB7CC.40103@att.net>
	<DD9F75FE8ADB4E948675F4F08DCC6777@sherbrooke>
Message-ID: <4EBEEDEF.7030704@att.net>

Ruth Burgess wrote:
> I'm not sure about your heat tho- TEXAS HOT AIR you say??
> Enough!! I know you have waited a long time to enjoy this job !!
> Ruth....
Thanks, Ruth. Your memory is good. I've been on this one a long time. 
All those years and three moves and I have only lost one part...the air 
cleaner base for the HIF carbs. That should be reasonably easy to obtain 
if I don't find it. Lots of Rovernetters have helped with this one over 
the years.

As far as hot air goes, most of it is generated by our present governor....
A friend of mine who builds wind turbines says they are working in 
Pennsylvania now at an area close to Washington, D.C. Someone decided to 
take advantage of all the hot air being generated by politicians to 
create jobs and make money.

Roverly,
Kent K.




From real.forest at videotron.ca  Sat Nov 12 20:47:48 2011
From: real.forest at videotron.ca (Real Forest)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:47:48 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Fwd: [BritCarTalk] A rover for sale [1 Attachment]
References: <4EBDF6F1.4070001@britishcarshop.com>
Message-ID: <87094EB2-1705-4987-A2D2-7F34F20CCFAB@videotron.ca>



Envoy? de mon iPad

D?but du message transf?r? :

> Exp?diteur: Ian Cox <Ian at britishcarshop.com>
> Date: 11 novembre 2011 23:32:49 HNE
> Destinataire: "BritCarTalk at yahoogroups.com" <BritCarTalk at yahoogroups.com>
> Objet: [BritCarTalk] A rover for sale [1 Attachment]
> R?pondre ?: BritCarTalk at yahoogroups.com
> 

> [Attachment(s) from Ian Cox included below]
> Here's Rover that I can't identify . I believe that it's for sale  in Saskatchewan and calls for a couple of thousand dollars.  Any interest ?
> Ian
> Ian Cox
> The British Car Shop
> 2825 Austin Avenue
> Victoria BC V9A 2K8
> Canada
> Phone 250-384-2910
> 
> __._,_.___
> Attachment(s) from Ian Cox
> 1 of 1 Photo(s)
> 
> Sask cars 038.jpg
> Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic
> Messages in this topic (1)
> RECENT ACTIVITY: New Members 1
> Visit Your Group
> MARKETPLACE
> Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.
> 
> Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use
> .
>  
> __,_._,___
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111112/8127e4e7/attachment.html>

From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 13 11:11:56 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>,
	, , <BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>


Just following up on this one.  Rover parts books reveal two types of wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later serrated [bash in] type.  The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number corresponds with that of the P4].  The serrated type has a larger diameter at its base and is thus not interchangeable.  A total of 10 studs are needed for each axle.  Front and rear axles take the same studs.

> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for your P4.CheersRichard
> 
> > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Richard
> >               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!! That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the wheel on!!!
> >                                          Cheers Ben
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > 
> > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Hi Folks
> > > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
> > > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > 
> > > > *************
> > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > then
> > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111112/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/d5ac650b/attachment.html>

From irishrover1 at live.com  Sun Nov 13 10:58:06 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:58:06 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>,,, ,
	<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>,
	, , <COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>


Hi Richard
              That doesn't follow with what I have here, I have two axles from a 1953 P4 and four axles from a 1961 P4 both have the same studs, only difference I have noticed is the back plates, different fitting for two types of wheel cylinders. Strange! later P6 have the bash out type not sure about the P5 but think they are same as the P4??? Even stranger all of my spare axles have studs missing which would indicate they do come out easily. I haven't tried yet but hoping I'm right and get the studs I need without much struggle!!!
                             Rovers Eh!!! Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Just following up on this one.  Rover parts books reveal two types of wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later serrated [bash in] type.  The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number corresponds with that of the P4].  The serrated type has a larger diameter at its base and is thus not interchangeable.  A total of 10 studs are needed for each axle.  Front and rear axles take the same studs.
> 
> > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for your P4.CheersRichard
> > 
> > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Richard
> > >               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!! That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the wheel on!!!
> > >                                          Cheers Ben
> > > 
> > > *************
> > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > then
> > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > > 
> > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Hi Folks
> > > > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
> > > > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > > 
> > > > > *************
> > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > then
> > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > > **************************************
> > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > 
> > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111112/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/d5ac650b/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/7201bed3/attachment.html>

From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 14 13:55:04 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:55:04 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>,,,
	,,<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>,,, ,
	<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>,
	, , <BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>,
	<COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W57DA426927279F393A57F4B8C00@phx.gbl>


Hi BenI take that all six of your P4 axles have screw-in wheel studs?  If so, that squares with the parts books.  Your '61 production axles [Random thought: the date of 1961 may well be nominal unless accurate provenance exists, so they may be of a slightly earlier production.] most probably did not feature the change over to the serrated [bash in] stud first introduced on the P5 in 59-60.  Evidence in support of this supposition:  my factory parts book covering late production [1958-1964] P4's lists part numbers for both threaded and serrated studs, whilst the FPB for early production [pre-1958] has a PN for threaded studs only.CheersRichard

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:58:06 -0300
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Richard
>               That doesn't follow with what I have here, I have two axles from a 1953 P4 and four axles from a 1961 P4 both have the same studs, only difference I have noticed is the back plates, different fitting for two types of wheel cylinders. Strange! later P6 have the bash out type not sure about the P5 but think they are same as the P4??? Even stranger all of my spare axles have studs missing which would indicate they do come out easily. I haven't tried yet but hoping I'm right and get the studs I need without much struggle!!!
>                              Rovers Eh!!! Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Just following up on this one.  Rover parts books reveal two types of wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later serrated [bash in] type.  The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number corresponds with that of the P4].  The serrated type has a larger diameter at its base and is thus not interchangeable.  A total of 10 studs are needed for each axle.  Front and rear axles take the same studs.
> > 
> > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for your P4.CheersRichard
> > > 
> > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Hi Richard
> > > >               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!! That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the wheel on!!!
> > > >                                          Cheers Ben
> > > > 
> > > > *************
> > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > then
> > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > > > 
> > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Hi Folks
> > > > > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
> > > > > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > *************
> > > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > then
> > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > 
> > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > > > **************************************
> > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > 
> > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111112/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/d5ac650b/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/7201bed3/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111114/b1443506/attachment.html>

From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Nov 14 18:48:22 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:48:22 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W57DA426927279F393A57F4B8C00@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>, , , , , ,
	<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>, , , 
	,,<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>,,, ,
	<BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>,
	, , <BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>, ,
	<COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W57DA426927279F393A57F4B8C00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL111-W593FCBF523355A4E1BE42F87C10@phx.gbl>


Hi Richard
              Yes they are all screw type. I actually got three out quite easily today after drilling out the chrimp. Then encountered my next problem they wouldn't screw back in, end of the threads were slightly out of shape. Will file them down and try again tomorrow.
                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:55:04 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi BenI take that all six of your P4 axles have screw-in wheel studs?  If so, that squares with the parts books.  Your '61 production axles [Random thought: the date of 1961 may well be nominal unless accurate provenance exists, so they may be of a slightly earlier production.] most probably did not feature the change over to the serrated [bash in] stud first introduced on the P5 in 59-60.  Evidence in support of this supposition:  my factory parts book covering late production [1958-1964] P4's lists part numbers for both threaded and serrated studs, whilst the FPB for early production [pre-1958] has a PN for threaded studs only.CheersRichard
> 
> > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:58:06 -0300
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Richard
> >               That doesn't follow with what I have here, I have two axles from a 1953 P4 and four axles from a 1961 P4 both have the same studs, only difference I have noticed is the back plates, different fitting for two types of wheel cylinders. Strange! later P6 have the bash out type not sure about the P5 but think they are same as the P4??? Even stranger all of my spare axles have studs missing which would indicate they do come out easily. I haven't tried yet but hoping I'm right and get the studs I need without much struggle!!!
> >                              Rovers Eh!!! Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Just following up on this one.  Rover parts books reveal two types of wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later serrated [bash in] type.  The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number corresponds with that of the P4].  The serrated type has a larger diameter at its base and is thus not interchangeable.  A total of 10 studs are needed for each axle.  Front and rear axles take the same studs.
> > > 
> > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for your P4.CheersRichard
> > > > 
> > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Hi Richard
> > > > >               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!! That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the wheel on!!!
> > > > >                                          Cheers Ben
> > > > > 
> > > > > *************
> > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > then
> > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage, each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Hi Folks
> > > > > > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just shop of a new stud???
> > > > > > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > *************
> > > > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > > then
> > > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111110/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > 
> > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111111/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > > > > **************************************
> > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > 
> > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111112/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/d5ac650b/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111113/7201bed3/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111114/b1443506/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111114/830ef7b3/attachment.html>

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Tue Nov 15 07:59:52 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:59:52 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W593FCBF523355A4E1BE42F87C10@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>, , , , , ,
	<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>, , , , ,
	<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>, , , ,
	<BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>, , ,
	<BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>, ,
	<COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W57DA426927279F393A57F4B8C00@phx.gbl>
	<COL111-W593FCBF523355A4E1BE42F87C10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BC5648EE8BEB4C81B0091EB6240B396C@SD1>

Ben,
You are right in that you will have to chamfer the threads to get them back
in or take out all 5 per wheel and use the knurled (spline) type in there
place.
Ben Saunders
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 7:48 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question



Hi Richard
              Yes they are all screw type. I actually got three out quite
easily today after drilling out the chrimp. Then encountered my next problem
they wouldn't screw back in, end of the threads were slightly out of shape.
Will file them down and try again tomorrow.
                                    Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:55:04 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi BenI take that all six of your P4 axles have screw-in wheel studs?  If
so, that squares with the parts books.  Your '61 production axles [Random
thought: the date of 1961 may well be nominal unless accurate provenance
exists, so they may be of a slightly earlier production.] most probably did
not feature the change over to the serrated [bash in] stud first introduced
on the P5 in 59-60.  Evidence in support of this supposition:  my factory
parts book covering late production [1958-1964] P4's lists part numbers for
both threaded and serrated studs, whilst the FPB for early production
[pre-1958] has a PN for threaded studs only.CheersRichard
> 
> > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:58:06 -0300
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Richard
> >               That doesn't follow with what I have here, I have two
axles from a 1953 P4 and four axles from a 1961 P4 both have the same studs,
only difference I have noticed is the back plates, different fitting for two
types of wheel cylinders. Strange! later P6 have the bash out type not sure
about the P5 but think they are same as the P4??? Even stranger all of my
spare axles have studs missing which would indicate they do come out easily.
I haven't tried yet but hoping I'm right and get the studs I need without
much struggle!!!
> >                              Rovers Eh!!! Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Just following up on this one.  Rover parts books reveal two types of
wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later
serrated [bash in] type.  The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle
number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number
corresponds with that of the P4].  The serrated type has a larger diameter
at its base and is thus not interchangeable.  A total of 10 studs are needed
for each axle.  Front and rear axles take the same studs.
> > > 
> > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look
see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for
your P4.CheersRichard
> > > > 
> > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Hi Richard
> > > > >               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs
thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!!
That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the
wheel on!!!
> > > > >                                          Cheers Ben
> > > > > 
> > > > > *************
> > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available
as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS
Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > then
> > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage,
each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs
and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Hi Folks
> > > > > > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I
didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I
have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to
come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is
it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just
shop of a new stud???
> > > > > > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > *************
> > > > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now
available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,
HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > > then
> > > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
1/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > 
> > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
1/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > > > > **************************************
> > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > 
> > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
2/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
3/d5ac650b/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
3/7201bed3/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
4/b1443506/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
4/830ef7b3/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4616 - Release Date: 11/14/11



From irishrover1 at live.com  Tue Nov 15 12:49:10 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 15:49:10 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <BC5648EE8BEB4C81B0091EB6240B396C@SD1>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>, , , , ,
	,,<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>, , , ,
	,,<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>, , ,
	,,<BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>, ,
	,,<BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>,
	, , <COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU157-W57DA426927279F393A57F4B8C00@phx.gbl>,
	<COL111-W593FCBF523355A4E1BE42F87C10@phx.gbl>,
	<BC5648EE8BEB4C81B0091EB6240B396C@SD1>
Message-ID: <COL111-W24A15626FC74A7C0BFBDD687C10@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben
        I managed to clean all the threads and have refitted the studs with dabs of locktite, everything looks good. Wonder what comes next????
   Cheers Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:59:52 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> Ben,
> You are right in that you will have to chamfer the threads to get them back
> in or take out all 5 per wheel and use the knurled (spline) type in there
> place.
> Ben Saunders
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 7:48 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Richard
>               Yes they are all screw type. I actually got three out quite
> easily today after drilling out the chrimp. Then encountered my next problem
> they wouldn't screw back in, end of the threads were slightly out of shape.
> Will file them down and try again tomorrow.
>                                     Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:55:04 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi BenI take that all six of your P4 axles have screw-in wheel studs?  If
> so, that squares with the parts books.  Your '61 production axles [Random
> thought: the date of 1961 may well be nominal unless accurate provenance
> exists, so they may be of a slightly earlier production.] most probably did
> not feature the change over to the serrated [bash in] stud first introduced
> on the P5 in 59-60.  Evidence in support of this supposition:  my factory
> parts book covering late production [1958-1964] P4's lists part numbers for
> both threaded and serrated studs, whilst the FPB for early production
> [pre-1958] has a PN for threaded studs only.CheersRichard
> > 
> > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:58:06 -0300
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Richard
> > >               That doesn't follow with what I have here, I have two
> axles from a 1953 P4 and four axles from a 1961 P4 both have the same studs,
> only difference I have noticed is the back plates, different fitting for two
> types of wheel cylinders. Strange! later P6 have the bash out type not sure
> about the P5 but think they are same as the P4??? Even stranger all of my
> spare axles have studs missing which would indicate they do come out easily.
> I haven't tried yet but hoping I'm right and get the studs I need without
> much struggle!!!
> > >                              Rovers Eh!!! Ben (irishrover)
> > > 
> > > *************
> > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> > > then
> > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
> > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Just following up on this one.  Rover parts books reveal two types of
> wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later
> serrated [bash in] type.  The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle
> number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number
> corresponds with that of the P4].  The serrated type has a larger diameter
> at its base and is thus not interchangeable.  A total of 10 studs are needed
> for each axle.  Front and rear axles take the same studs.
> > > > 
> > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Thanks Ben.  I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look
> see - intrigued!  Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for
> your P4.CheersRichard
> > > > > 
> > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Hi Richard
> > > > > >               Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs
> thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!!
> That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the
> wheel on!!!
> > > > > >                                          Cheers Ben
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > *************
> > > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available
> as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS
> Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > then
> > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage,
> each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub.  Obtain replacement studs
> and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > > > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > Hi Folks
> > > > > > > >           I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I
> didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I
> have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to
> come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is
> it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just
> shop of a new stud???
> > > > > > > >                             Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > *************
> > > > > > > > My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now
> available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,
> HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > > > then
> > > > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 1/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 1/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > 
> > > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 2/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> > > > > **************************************
> > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > 
> > > >  		 	   		  
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 3/d5ac650b/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > >  		 	   		  
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 3/7201bed3/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> >  		 	   		  
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 4/b1443506/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
>  		 	   		  
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> 4/830ef7b3/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4616 - Release Date: 11/14/11
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111115/c33f9134/attachment.html>

From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 15 21:44:35 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 03:44:35 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W24A15626FC74A7C0BFBDD687C10@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W51E8972D5FE4A9AFADE7C187DC0@phx.gbl>, , , ,
	,,,,<BLU157-W39DC0A3099B59C50A1FB2B8DD0@phx.gbl>, , ,
	,,,,<COL111-W19E68BB6781A7E5E599F7C87DD0@phx.gbl>, ,
	,,,,<BLU157-W55EF93D2C97F5F991B5DB3B8C20@phx.gbl>,
	,,,,<BLU157-W44A7E6FDEE013C6A9DCF65B8C30@phx.gbl>,,, ,
	<COL111-W6085D1EA790387757EE1EA87C30@phx.gbl>,
	, , <BLU157-W57DA426927279F393A57F4B8C00@phx.gbl>, ,
	<COL111-W593FCBF523355A4E1BE42F87C10@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BC5648EE8BEB4C81B0091EB6240B396C@SD1>,
	<COL111-W24A15626FC74A7C0BFBDD687C10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W63ADD7FC716A14E09B8411B8C60@phx.gbl>


Good man!
 

> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 15:49:10 -0300
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ben
> I managed to clean all the threads and have refitted the studs with dabs of locktite, everything looks good. Wonder what comes next????
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> 
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> 
> 
> > From: bsaunders at firstva.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:59:52 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > Ben,
> > You are right in that you will have to chamfer the threads to get them back
> > in or take out all 5 per wheel and use the knurled (spline) type in there
> > place.
> > Ben Saunders
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> > Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 7:48 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Richard
> > Yes they are all screw type. I actually got three out quite
> > easily today after drilling out the chrimp. Then encountered my next problem
> > they wouldn't screw back in, end of the threads were slightly out of shape.
> > Will file them down and try again tomorrow.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > 
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > 
> > 
> > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:55:04 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi BenI take that all six of your P4 axles have screw-in wheel studs? If
> > so, that squares with the parts books. Your '61 production axles [Random
> > thought: the date of 1961 may well be nominal unless accurate provenance
> > exists, so they may be of a slightly earlier production.] most probably did
> > not feature the change over to the serrated [bash in] stud first introduced
> > on the P5 in 59-60. Evidence in support of this supposition: my factory
> > parts book covering late production [1958-1964] P4's lists part numbers for
> > both threaded and serrated studs, whilst the FPB for early production
> > [pre-1958] has a PN for threaded studs only.CheersRichard
> > > 
> > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:58:06 -0300
> > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > Hi Richard
> > > > That doesn't follow with what I have here, I have two
> > axles from a 1953 P4 and four axles from a 1961 P4 both have the same studs,
> > only difference I have noticed is the back plates, different fitting for two
> > types of wheel cylinders. Strange! later P6 have the bash out type not sure
> > about the P5 but think they are same as the P4??? Even stranger all of my
> > spare axles have studs missing which would indicate they do come out easily.
> > I haven't tried yet but hoping I'm right and get the studs I need without
> > much struggle!!!
> > > > Rovers Eh!!! Ben (irishrover)
> > > > 
> > > > *************
> > > > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > > > then
> > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:11:56 +0000
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Just following up on this one. Rover parts books reveal two types of
> > wheel studs were fitted to P4's: an early threaded version and a later
> > serrated [bash in] type. The change over occurred in 1959-60 by vehicle
> > number [this was also true of the P5 whose serrated stud part number
> > corresponds with that of the P4]. The serrated type has a larger diameter
> > at its base and is thus not interchangeable. A total of 10 studs are needed
> > for each axle. Front and rear axles take the same studs.
> > > > > 
> > > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 16:47:51 +0000
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Thanks Ben. I'm going to crawl under the 90 and have a close look
> > see - intrigued! Have every confidence that you'll find a work around for
> > your P4.CheersRichard
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 18:19:54 -0300
> > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Hi Richard
> > > > > > > Unfortunately they are not the same, these studs
> > thread/screw into place then the inner end is crimped so not to come out!!
> > That's my problem!!! but I'll come up with something, maybe I could weld the
> > wheel on!!!
> > > > > > > Cheers Ben
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > *************
> > > > > > > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available
> > as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS
> > Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > > then
> > > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
> > > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 19:21:49 +0000
> > > > > > > > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > If they're like those fitted to a Land-Rover of similar vintage,
> > each stud is a simple interference fit on the hub. Obtain replacement studs
> > and bash them in with a 2 pound hammer from the inner hub flange side.
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > From: irishrover1 at live.com
> > > > > > > > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > > > > > > > Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 15:11:42 -0300
> > > > > > > > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Stud Question
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > Hi Folks
> > > > > > > > > I have just changed a rear axle on my 1961 P4-100, I
> > didn't notice two missing wheel studs until I had it all back in place. I
> > have studs in other axle but they don't look like they are designed not to
> > come out, they thread in to the hub but appear to crimped once in place. Is
> > it possible to get them out without damage to the threads or should I just
> > shop of a new stud???
> > > > > > > > > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > *************
> > > > > > > > > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now
> > available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > > > > > > > > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,
> > HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > > > > > > > > then
> > > > > > > > > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 0/d0cb67a2/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 1/3d1da4e4/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 1/77ef860b/attachment.html>
> > > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 2/c9a734b8/attachment.html>
> > > > > > **************************************
> > > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 3/d5ac650b/attachment.html>
> > > > > **************************************
> > > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 3/7201bed3/attachment.html>
> > > > **************************************
> > > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > > 
> > > 
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 4/b1443506/attachment.html>
> > > **************************************
> > > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > > 
> > 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011111
> > 4/830ef7b3/attachment.html>
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > 
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4616 - Release Date: 11/14/11
> > 
> > 
> > **************************************
> > Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111115/c33f9134/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111116/354b70ac/attachment.html>

From bsaunders at firstva.com  Wed Nov 16 15:54:09 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 16:54:09 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Wiring Problem
In-Reply-To: <CA+WAG7hGtV30fKOmztn__T6LaG0oQtpXcMSBKz+TXKGZWNoP8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+WAG7hGtV30fKOmztn__T6LaG0oQtpXcMSBKz+TXKGZWNoP8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4295102506BF4A11B7DB929B809A56D5@SD1>

Hi Gordon,
The photos of the overdrive makes suggest that you are having far too much
fun. Let me know how it turns out. I just might bring you mine to go over.
Please spread the word that I am looking to sell the SD1, again but since I
have a truck now I can't afford to keep both. I would like to get $2500 for
it and I will throw in the other parts car with the deal. 

Ben 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 9:16 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Wiring Problem


Hello,

Today I set about what I thought would be a straightforward job in getting
the headlights and sidelights working on my P5 (1963 Mk IIa 3-Litre Saloon,
LHD, positive ground).  Unfortunately, it appears that someone at some time
rewired the lighting circuit, at least behind the dash binnacle, and with
non-standard wire colors.  I'm trying to make sense of the wiring diagram to
see how things should be, but between the unorthodox changes and the nest of
wires back there, I'm having a hard time.  There don't seem to be enough
wires connected to the main headlight switch, either.

Would someone be willing to take and send pictures of the headlight switch
(top right) and dimmer switch (top left)  wiring?  I'm going to put
something on the P5 board, but I know the British models are wired slightly
differently.

Thanks,

Gordon.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011072
8/f0717bfc/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.901 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3793 - Release Date: 07/28/11
02:34:00

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4575 - Release Date: 10/26/11



From RoverP6 at gmx.de  Thu Nov 17 13:23:18 2011
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 20:23:18 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] German Rover P6 3500 / approx. 23.500 GBP
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl><pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com>
	<3k8rb7pnigt1148lsvhfv7ikerbuq6bal3@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <37D9BFD750274FD8811BEAD3EF644436@rw>


http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=de&id=153859475&pageNumber=1&__lp=2&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=21700&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1980-12-31&negativeFeatures=EXPORT&tabNumber=1


Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info 



From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Nov 17 16:58:40 2011
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 15:58:40 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Front door window frame removal
Message-ID: <C5F167CD-DB1C-4933-9E43-7F49BBE341B0@telusplanet.net>

Any one got any tips for this? I have all bolts/screws/fasteners  
removed and just cant seem to get the thing out.


From vern at inkspotco.com  Thu Nov 17 17:00:09 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 15:00:09 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Front door window frame removal
In-Reply-To: <C5F167CD-DB1C-4933-9E43-7F49BBE341B0@telusplanet.net>
References: <C5F167CD-DB1C-4933-9E43-7F49BBE341B0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <CA83E92E-B20B-40EA-A50D-23478DF9F801@inkspotco.com>

What car?

Yours
Vern
On 2011-11-17, at 2:58 PM, Roy Babiuk wrote:

> 
> Any one got any tips for this? I have all bolts/screws/fasteners removed and just cant seem to get the thing out.
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From kkinard at att.net  Thu Nov 17 17:27:25 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 17:27:25 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6/P6B front bumper
Message-ID: <4EC5985D.2080301@att.net>

Hi Netters,
I have NAS P6B front and rear bumpers.  I have TC front and rear 
bumpers.  I have no UK spec P6B front bumpers and I need one.  The part 
numbers for bar and brackets differ from TC.  I have brackets but no 
face bar.  Anyone in North America with a spare UK V8 front bumper?  Any 
suggestions?

Roverly
Kent K.




From RABABIUK at TELUSPLANET.NET  Thu Nov 17 18:15:08 2011
From: RABABIUK at TELUSPLANET.NET (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 17:15:08 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Front door window frame removal
Message-ID: <1D41CF9C-8DAE-457B-BB54-155671BDB2A2@TELUSPLANET.NET>

Done....
2000 TC Vern.
Problem was the bracket on the front small guide rail. Bolted from the  
backside. Bolt removed and then frame came out easily.
Roy


From rover1000 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 18 01:33:28 2011
From: rover1000 at hotmail.com (ikke nie)
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 07:33:28 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] German Rover P6 3500 / approx. 23.500 GBP
In-Reply-To: <37D9BFD750274FD8811BEAD3EF644436@rw>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl><pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com>,
	<3k8rb7pnigt1148lsvhfv7ikerbuq6bal3@4ax.com>,
	<37D9BFD750274FD8811BEAD3EF644436@rw>
Message-ID: <SNT128-W102D01B806B9857A173F0BB2C40@phx.gbl>


Hi Rudiger,
 
Please keep us informed when this car gets sold.
 
It's a lot of money for a P6, but if you would buy it as your everyday car then it's only Golf- or base-model-Audi-A4-money.
 
Then put a LPG-tank in it and it's going to be cheap-isch to run
 
Provided the restauration is not only cosmetic, that is.
 
Best regards
 
Yves
 

> From: RoverP6 at gmx.de
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 20:23:18 +0100
> Subject: [Rovernet ] German Rover P6 3500 / approx. 23.500 GBP
> 
> 
> 
> http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=de&id=153859475&pageNumber=1&__lp=2&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=21700&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1980-12-31&negativeFeatures=EXPORT&tabNumber=1
> 
> 
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info 
> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111118/35e1ae87/attachment.html>

From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Fri Nov 18 08:38:41 2011
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 15:38:41 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] R:  German Rover P6 3500 / approx. 23.500 GBP
In-Reply-To: <37D9BFD750274FD8811BEAD3EF644436@rw>
References: <BLU154-W24BDC82117BA4B0D945C729EDC0@phx.gbl><pf7pb7drnkr1v0c3q2qvg63lagkl9f5ckg@4ax.com><3k8rb7pnigt1148lsvhfv7ikerbuq6bal3@4ax.com>
	<37D9BFD750274FD8811BEAD3EF644436@rw>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596012191B0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>

As they say, choose the best p6 you can afford or buy...

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
Inviato: gioved? 17 novembre 2011 20.23
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] German Rover P6 3500 / approx. 23.500 GBP



http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=de&id=153859475&pageNumber=1&__lp=2&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=creationTime&sortOption.sortOrder=DESCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=21700&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1980-12-31&negativeFeatures=EXPORT&tabNumber=1


Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info 


**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From trymes at rymes.net  Mon Nov 21 14:58:14 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 15:58:14 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
Message-ID: <4ECABB66.606@rymes.net>

Fellow Rover-ers:

It looks like I am in need of a cylinder head for my MkIII P5 3 Litre.

Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has a known-good head out there that 
they'd be willing to part with.

Please drop me a line if you do!

Tom


From irishrover1 at live.com  Mon Nov 21 14:55:58 2011
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:55:58 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
In-Reply-To: <4ECABB66.606@rymes.net>
References: <4ECABB66.606@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <COL111-W22B565795B5DAB85F3833D87CB0@phx.gbl>


If its a Mk 3 you probably need a westlake head, sorry I can't help there only have one for a P5 Mk1A
                                                   Regards Ben (irishrover)

*************
My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com


> Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 15:58:14 -0500
> From: trymes at rymes.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
> 
> 
> Fellow Rover-ers:
> 
> It looks like I am in need of a cylinder head for my MkIII P5 3 Litre.
> 
> Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has a known-good head out there that 
> they'd be willing to part with.
> 
> Please drop me a line if you do!
> 
> Tom
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/5283bce0/attachment.html>

From danenberg123 at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 21 15:48:56 2011
From: danenberg123 at yahoo.com (Bo Danenberger)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 13:48:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
In-Reply-To: <4ECABB66.606@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <1321912136.66901.YahooMailClassic@web160703.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hello.?? I have a head here but I really don't know if it's I, II, III.? Tell me what to look for to identify for you. I'll get it off the shelf in the mean time so I'll be ready to verify.
Cheers!? Bo Danenberger, Danvers, Illinois

--- On Mon, 11/21/11, Tom Rymes <trymes at rymes.net> wrote:


From: Tom Rymes <trymes at rymes.net>
Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Monday, November 21, 2011, 2:58 PM



Fellow Rover-ers:

It looks like I am in need of a cylinder head for my MkIII P5 3 Litre.

Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has a known-good head out there that they'd be willing to part with.

Please drop me a line if you do!

Tom

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/ea279c28/attachment.html>

From kkinard at att.net  Mon Nov 21 19:51:14 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 19:51:14 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot lid
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>,
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>

Hi Netters,
A word to the wise should be sufficient. I am thankful to be alive. Real 
Forest had been asking questions about converting NAS SD1s to square 
lamps. I was digging around in the boot of the red car trying to find 
the filler panels that fit between the square lamps and the bonnet. I 
found them, took pictures and then proceeded to put everything back in 
the boot. I should explain that the red car has no struts to hold up the 
hatch and I insert a stout piece of hardwood to hold the hatch up. In 
the the process of replacing items in the boot I dislodged the stout 
piece of hardwood causing the hatch to rapidly descend upon my skull 
which was located directly below the latch. The latch did it's very best 
to penetrate my cranium. Thankfully, due to many years of struggling 
with Rovers I have developed a very hard head. I told the doctor who 
stitched up my head how it happened and she laughed so hard she almost 
couldn't sew. If my face is lopsided from unequal tension at the site of 
the laceration, I have only myself to blame. Owners of P4s and P6s will 
be in less danger due to the aluminium boot lids, but for the rest of 
you and especially SD1 owners, please remember to remove your head from 
the boot before lowering the boot lid/hatch.

Roverimpenetrably,
Kent K.


From trymes at rymes.net  Mon Nov 21 20:06:39 2011
From: trymes at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:06:39 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
In-Reply-To: <4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>,
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
Message-ID: <8FF71F39-26AC-4490-B77D-67551AE936DA@rymes.net>

Hah! Did the same thing this spring with my Riley. Broke the nearly unobtanium boot hinge in the process, too!

Tom

On Nov 21, 2011, at 8:51 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:

> 
> Hi Netters,
> A word to the wise should be sufficient. I am thankful to be alive. Real Forest had been asking questions about converting NAS SD1s to square lamps. I was digging around in the boot of the red car trying to find the filler panels that fit between the square lamps and the bonnet. I found them, took pictures and then proceeded to put everything back in the boot. I should explain that the red car has no struts to hold up the hatch and I insert a stout piece of hardwood to hold the hatch up. In the the process of replacing items in the boot I dislodged the stout piece of hardwood causing the hatch to rapidly descend upon my skull which was located directly below the latch. The latch did it's very best to penetrate my cranium. Thankfully, due to many years of struggling with Rovers I have developed a very hard head. I told the doctor who stitched up my head how it happened and she laughed so hard she almost couldn't sew. If my face is lopsided from unequal tension at the site of the laceration, I have only myself to blame. Owners of P4s and P6s will be in less danger due to the aluminium boot lids, but for the rest of you and especially SD1 owners, please remember to remove your head from the boot before lowering the boot lid/hatch.
> 
> Roverimpenetrably,
> Kent K.
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From kkinard at att.net  Mon Nov 21 20:17:55 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 20:17:55 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Series 1 SD1 headlamp to bonnet filler panel
In-Reply-To: <4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>,
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
Message-ID: <4ECB0653.1020008@att.net>

Once again...
I should report that BRC1792 and BRC1793 filler panels appear to have 
been superseded by BRC5456 and BRC5457. If there is a difference, I 
can't tell it. Only BRC5456 is still available from Rimmers. If you have 
friends in the UK SD1 Club, you would do well to beg them to visit the 
breakers yards before the supply of SD1s there is exhausted. If you want 
to see what they look like, I have some recent pics taken at great expense.

Roverly,
Kent K.


From robertime at cavtel.net  Mon Nov 21 21:11:27 2011
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 22:11:27 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
In-Reply-To: <4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
Message-ID: <CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Kent,

Glad you're recovering from the mishap.  This prompts me to mention -- for
any other SD1 owners out there -- that a very good replacement for these
gas struts is available from most Auto Zone stores for about $25.  These
are Mighty Lift brand, D95995 (assuming they are in the correct packaging,
best to bring an old one along to match up).  I did a reverse search for
what else this item might fit and came up with Nissan 350Z's, so it's not
something easily found in junkyards.  Another potential solution is to use
those clever, locking bonnet struts off of Sterlings -- probably the only
parts on those cars that may be used on SD1's!

Domestic-source replacements for SD1 bonnet struts aren't as easy to come
up with -- I've had to buy them from Rimmers in the UK, a bit pricey for
what they are -- but what price safety?   I even bought their Triumph-style
sliding bonnet support, then realized that it can't be used with the fuel
injection's air cleaner box in place.  Mighty Lift items I checked were a
bit too long when tested for this application, caused the hood to pop up
suddenly -- a different sort of problem that also had potential to cause
damage.

I've occasionally been in the position of having to use broomsticks, etc.,
to hold open SD1 hatches, but have always been worried about this sort of
thing occurring (as you well know, that hatch is very heavy and could
easily do serious harm to someone's head) -- hope they checked for a
possible concussion.  Head injuries are a very serious matter.  I knocked a
hole through a windshield about 40 years ago, which may help explain my
interest in these cars -- particularly their reputation for safety (no, not
what some of you were probably thinking!).  ;-)  One other safeguard is to
detach the straps that lift the rear shelf (assuming it's there), then flip
it up against the glass.  It actually may have been designed for that
purpose (more likely a coincidence, though).

I suspect you were dealing with a parts car, so you might not want to rush
out to get new hatch struts -- but I thought I'd mention this just in case
anyone else might find this information of use.  For so many years, many
critical parts that these cars needed simply weren't available.
 Fortunately, with the internet and speedy worldwide shipping, it's no
longer an insurmountable problem.

Something else to be thankful for.

Take care,

Robert

On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:

>
> Hi Netters,
> A word to the wise should be sufficient. I am thankful to be alive. Real
> Forest had been asking questions about converting NAS SD1s to square lamps.
> I was digging around in the boot of the red car trying to find the filler
> panels that fit between the square lamps and the bonnet. I found them, took
> pictures and then proceeded to put everything back in the boot. I should
> explain that the red car has no struts to hold up the hatch and I insert a
> stout piece of hardwood to hold the hatch up. In the the process of
> replacing items in the boot I dislodged the stout piece of hardwood causing
> the hatch to rapidly descend upon my skull which was located directly below
> the latch. The latch did it's very best to penetrate my cranium.
> Thankfully, due to many years of struggling with Rovers I have developed a
> very hard head. I told the doctor who stitched up my head how it happened
> and she laughed so hard she almost couldn't sew. If my face is lopsided
> from unequal tension at the site of the laceration, I have only myself to
> blame. Owners of P4s and P6s will be in less danger due to the aluminium
> boot lids, but for the rest of you and especially SD1 owners, please
> remember to remove your head from the boot before lowering the boot
> lid/hatch.
>
> Roverimpenetrably,
> Kent K.
>
> ****************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/d05f5dfb/attachment.html>

From kkinard at att.net  Mon Nov 21 21:49:41 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:49:41 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
 lid
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECB1BD5.3040100@att.net>

Thanks for the part number and application, Robert. I think I'll get a 
pair. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice and it might be a funeral.

Roverly,
Kent K.


From R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com  Mon Nov 21 21:51:50 2011
From: R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com (Robert Thornton)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 14:21:50 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing
	boot	lid
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D61@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>

Not a nice experience, the SD1 hatch and huge glass screen are extremely heavy (wasn't it supposed to be the biggest production car glass rear screen in the world bar the  one used on the Jensen Interceptor).

I replaced the steel hatch on my SD1 with a lightweight fibreglass version with lexan/margard screen, and fitted two chromed Lokar self-locking hood props in place of the gas struts which I got from Summit. It's one finger opening now and it can't come down unless the locks are manually released ... no more sore heads.

Cheers
Rob


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of ROBERT HEIMERL
Sent: Tuesday, 22 November 2011 1:41 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot lid


Hi Kent,

Glad you're recovering from the mishap.  This prompts me to mention -- for
any other SD1 owners out there -- that a very good replacement for these
gas struts is available from most Auto Zone stores for about $25.  These
are Mighty Lift brand, D95995 (assuming they are in the correct packaging,
best to bring an old one along to match up).  I did a reverse search for
what else this item might fit and came up with Nissan 350Z's, so it's not
something easily found in junkyards.  Another potential solution is to use
those clever, locking bonnet struts off of Sterlings -- probably the only
parts on those cars that may be used on SD1's!

Domestic-source replacements for SD1 bonnet struts aren't as easy to come
up with -- I've had to buy them from Rimmers in the UK, a bit pricey for
what they are -- but what price safety?   I even bought their Triumph-style
sliding bonnet support, then realized that it can't be used with the fuel
injection's air cleaner box in place.  Mighty Lift items I checked were a
bit too long when tested for this application, caused the hood to pop up
suddenly -- a different sort of problem that also had potential to cause
damage.

I've occasionally been in the position of having to use broomsticks, etc.,
to hold open SD1 hatches, but have always been worried about this sort of
thing occurring (as you well know, that hatch is very heavy and could
easily do serious harm to someone's head) -- hope they checked for a
possible concussion.  Head injuries are a very serious matter.  I knocked a
hole through a windshield about 40 years ago, which may help explain my
interest in these cars -- particularly their reputation for safety (no, not
what some of you were probably thinking!).  ;-)  One other safeguard is to
detach the straps that lift the rear shelf (assuming it's there), then flip
it up against the glass.  It actually may have been designed for that
purpose (more likely a coincidence, though).

I suspect you were dealing with a parts car, so you might not want to rush
out to get new hatch struts -- but I thought I'd mention this just in case
anyone else might find this information of use.  For so many years, many
critical parts that these cars needed simply weren't available.
 Fortunately, with the internet and speedy worldwide shipping, it's no
longer an insurmountable problem.

Something else to be thankful for.

Take care,

Robert

On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:

>
> Hi Netters,
> A word to the wise should be sufficient. I am thankful to be alive. Real
> Forest had been asking questions about converting NAS SD1s to square lamps.
> I was digging around in the boot of the red car trying to find the filler
> panels that fit between the square lamps and the bonnet. I found them, took
> pictures and then proceeded to put everything back in the boot. I should
> explain that the red car has no struts to hold up the hatch and I insert a
> stout piece of hardwood to hold the hatch up. In the the process of
> replacing items in the boot I dislodged the stout piece of hardwood causing
> the hatch to rapidly descend upon my skull which was located directly below
> the latch. The latch did it's very best to penetrate my cranium.
> Thankfully, due to many years of struggling with Rovers I have developed a
> very hard head. I told the doctor who stitched up my head how it happened
> and she laughed so hard she almost couldn't sew. If my face is lopsided
> from unequal tension at the site of the laceration, I have only myself to
> blame. Owners of P4s and P6s will be in less danger due to the aluminium
> boot lids, but for the rest of you and especially SD1 owners, please
> remember to remove your head from the boot before lowering the boot
> lid/hatch.
>
> Roverimpenetrably,
> Kent K.
>
> ****************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/d05f5dfb/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/





From britishrover at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 22:43:02 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 23:43:02 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] 2003 ROVER 75 Automatic V-6, in Asheville,
	North Carolina..
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_SLLXQsodSvMspcLNQE5RBJJ1ed31jHHMY9Td4Daq=36g@mail.gmail.com>

..if Anyone really interested, guy wants $5,000 as is, it's a Mexico
car, so it might be a problem legalizing it?..email me, if you want
more info..

Dave Moorefield


From britishrover at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 22:54:16 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 23:54:16 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
In-Reply-To: <4ECB1BD5.3040100@att.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4ECB1BD5.3040100@att.net>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_T72izgRsOKVfcLZzTLXjPm49AmXgFh7Oy-wYih5gAtbw@mail.gmail.com>

Ha, you guys are Great...always NICE to Have a Point Man..!!..Hey,
that really wasn't funny, eh...BUT inasmuch I always appreciate any /
all info that can possibly aliviate that ole Rover frustration..lol.

Dave

On 11/21/11, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the part number and application, Robert. I think I'll get a
> pair. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice and it might be a funeral.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From britishrover at gmail.com  Mon Nov 21 23:09:26 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 00:09:26 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W22B565795B5DAB85F3833D87CB0@phx.gbl>
References: <4ECABB66.606@rymes.net>
	<COL111-W22B565795B5DAB85F3833D87CB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_TXzGke3MtM1sDZ+DNy2iEd293_yuG+WBuyTf5cNN8vVw@mail.gmail.com>

...if fixable, and sometimes they are..there are several services out
there that have unique techniques in repairing cyclinder heads..just
sayin

On 11/21/11, Frederick Ben Rodgers <irishrover1 at live.com> wrote:
>
>
> If its a Mk 3 you probably need a westlake head, sorry I can't help there
> only have one for a P5 Mk1A
>                                                    Regards Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My  Books Lily & Me,   and The Royal Navy & Me,  are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>> Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 15:58:14 -0500
>> From: trymes at rymes.net
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Needed: 3-Litre cylinder head
>>
>>
>> Fellow Rover-ers:
>>
>> It looks like I am in need of a cylinder head for my MkIII P5 3 Litre.
>>
>> Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has a known-good head out there that
>> they'd be willing to part with.
>>
>> Please drop me a line if you do!
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>  		 	   		
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/5283bce0/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 22 11:26:33 2011
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 17:26:33 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
 lid
In-Reply-To: <4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>, ,
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>,
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>,
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
Message-ID: <BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>


Never had an SD1, but I have found that Rovers have a designed-in tendency to do harm to skulls that is unique to the brand:
1. P4 bootlids - even after 30+ years of ownership I still forget to duck the head when stepping back from fossiking in the boot.
2. Land-Rover Series - disconnecting the bonnet stay and swinging it up vertically to the windscreen in order to get access to the engine.  Forget to rope the thing up and sure as sunrise the day will come when it topples down on you - hopefully the blunt force trauma latch will miss its target, but the even so you will see stars. 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/545ec7eb/attachment.html>

From carstuff3 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 11:47:41 2011
From: carstuff3 at gmail.com (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 12:47:41 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CA+WAG7hJ_mtw90YjWu_Ebjvft+QtqdoRgoQy78xzywZhtjCJHg@mail.gmail.com>

Here's my contribution to the lore.  Back in the old days, the weapon of
choice for self-inflicted wounds was the bonnet catch on Series II Land
Rovers.  The thing stuck down right where one's head would be, making an
impalement inevitable.

There was a local mechanic named Joe Nosker who worked on our Rovers, and
he complained often of hitting his head on those things.  We used to joke
about finding him hanging from one, and to this day any such protrusion
from a bonnet is known as a "Nosker hook."

Gordon.

On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 12:26 PM, Richard Sharpe <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> Never had an SD1, but I have found that Rovers have a designed-in tendency
> to do harm to skulls that is unique to the brand:
> 1. P4 bootlids - even after 30+ years of ownership I still forget to duck
> the head when stepping back from fossiking in the boot.
> 2. Land-Rover Series - disconnecting the bonnet stay and swinging it up
> vertically to the windscreen in order to get access to the engine.  Forget
> to rope the thing up and sure as sunrise the day will come when it topples
> down on you - hopefully the blunt force trauma latch will miss its target,
> but the even so you will see stars.
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/545ec7eb/attachment.html
> >
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/1ab8382a/attachment.html>

From robertime at cavtel.net  Tue Nov 22 17:15:39 2011
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 18:15:39 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Series 1 SD1 headlamp to bonnet filler panel
In-Reply-To: <4ECB0653.1020008@att.net>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net> <4ECB0653.1020008@att.net>
Message-ID: <CAG4k1tEHL+uiG5JdxHNQpv2eEGvjxFL6uCJxbGy=GkcU69e4sw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Kent,

I'm still wondering which type of euro headlamps are being installed (early
inset/metal-backed or later flush-fitting/plastic ones)?  Rimmers offers a
plastic filler panel for the later models, still listed (BRC8165).  It was
pretty inexpensive the last time I checked.  I have a couple of these --
they require installation of upright mounts when replacing the North
American Spec quad lamps.  [In a strange twist, I was asked to re-install
the original quad lamp set-up on an SD1 that was re-exported to the UK
earlier this year.]

This conversion -- in either direction -- is much more difficult than one
might expect (unless one's been working on Rover SD1's for a long time,
that is)!  ;-)

Robert

On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 9:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:

>
> Once again...
> I should report that BRC1792 and BRC1793 filler panels appear to have been
> superseded by BRC5456 and BRC5457. If there is a difference, I can't tell
> it. Only BRC5456 is still available from Rimmers. If you have friends in
> the UK SD1 Club, you would do well to beg them to visit the breakers yards
> before the supply of SD1s there is exhausted. If you want to see what they
> look like, I have some recent pics taken at great expense.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> ****************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/c434253d/attachment.html>

From R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com  Tue Nov 22 17:52:12 2011
From: R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com (Robert Thornton)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:22:12 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing
	boot	lid
In-Reply-To: <CA+WAG7hJ_mtw90YjWu_Ebjvft+QtqdoRgoQy78xzywZhtjCJHg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
	<CA+WAG7hJ_mtw90YjWu_Ebjvft+QtqdoRgoQy78xzywZhtjCJHg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D65@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>

Not a nice experience, the SD1 hatch and huge glass screen are extremely heavy (wasn't it supposed to be the biggest production car glass rear screen in the world bar the  one used on the Jensen Interceptor).

I replaced the steel hatch on my SD1 with a lightweight fibreglass version with lexan/margard screen, and fitted two chromed Lokar self-locking hood props in place of the gas struts which I got from Summit. It's one finger opening now and it can't come down unless the locks are manually released ... no more sore heads.

Cheers
Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
Sent: Wednesday, 23 November 2011 4:18 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot lid


Here's my contribution to the lore.  Back in the old days, the weapon of
choice for self-inflicted wounds was the bonnet catch on Series II Land
Rovers.  The thing stuck down right where one's head would be, making an
impalement inevitable.

There was a local mechanic named Joe Nosker who worked on our Rovers, and
he complained often of hitting his head on those things.  We used to joke
about finding him hanging from one, and to this day any such protrusion
from a bonnet is known as a "Nosker hook."

Gordon.

On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 12:26 PM, Richard Sharpe <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>wrote:

>
>
> Never had an SD1, but I have found that Rovers have a designed-in tendency
> to do harm to skulls that is unique to the brand:
> 1. P4 bootlids - even after 30+ years of ownership I still forget to duck
> the head when stepping back from fossiking in the boot.
> 2. Land-Rover Series - disconnecting the bonnet stay and swinging it up
> vertically to the windscreen in order to get access to the engine.  Forget
> to rope the thing up and sure as sunrise the day will come when it topples
> down on you - hopefully the blunt force trauma latch will miss its target,
> but the even so you will see stars.
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/545ec7eb/attachment.html
> >
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/1ab8382a/attachment.html>
**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/





From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Tue Nov 22 18:33:32 2011
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (jaguru at bellsouth.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:33:32 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] I need Ruths email ..
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl><BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl><FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net><BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl><4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C1A22E43DCE4E16A962C7E871DBA775@JamesDeanPC1>

Could someone please give me Ruths' email and phone number, for a parts 
inquiry?  Thank you, James Dean
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ROBERT HEIMERL" <robertime at cavtel.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing 
bootlid


>
> Hi Kent,
>
> Glad you're recovering from the mishap.  This prompts me to mention -- for
> any other SD1 owners out there -- that a very good replacement for these
> gas struts is available from most Auto Zone stores for about $25.  These
> are Mighty Lift brand, D95995 (assuming they are in the correct packaging,
> best to bring an old one along to match up).  I did a reverse search for
> what else this item might fit and came up with Nissan 350Z's, so it's not
> something easily found in junkyards.  Another potential solution is to use
> those clever, locking bonnet struts off of Sterlings -- probably the only
> parts on those cars that may be used on SD1's!
>
> Domestic-source replacements for SD1 bonnet struts aren't as easy to come
> up with -- I've had to buy them from Rimmers in the UK, a bit pricey for
> what they are -- but what price safety?   I even bought their 
> Triumph-style
> sliding bonnet support, then realized that it can't be used with the fuel
> injection's air cleaner box in place.  Mighty Lift items I checked were a
> bit too long when tested for this application, caused the hood to pop up
> suddenly -- a different sort of problem that also had potential to cause
> damage.
>
> I've occasionally been in the position of having to use broomsticks, etc.,
> to hold open SD1 hatches, but have always been worried about this sort of
> thing occurring (as you well know, that hatch is very heavy and could
> easily do serious harm to someone's head) -- hope they checked for a
> possible concussion.  Head injuries are a very serious matter.  I knocked 
> a
> hole through a windshield about 40 years ago, which may help explain my
> interest in these cars -- particularly their reputation for safety (no, 
> not
> what some of you were probably thinking!).  ;-)  One other safeguard is to
> detach the straps that lift the rear shelf (assuming it's there), then 
> flip
> it up against the glass.  It actually may have been designed for that
> purpose (more likely a coincidence, though).
>
> I suspect you were dealing with a parts car, so you might not want to rush
> out to get new hatch struts -- but I thought I'd mention this just in case
> anyone else might find this information of use.  For so many years, many
> critical parts that these cars needed simply weren't available.
> Fortunately, with the internet and speedy worldwide shipping, it's no
> longer an insurmountable problem.
>
> Something else to be thankful for.
>
> Take care,
>
> Robert
>
> On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Netters,
>> A word to the wise should be sufficient. I am thankful to be alive. Real
>> Forest had been asking questions about converting NAS SD1s to square 
>> lamps.
>> I was digging around in the boot of the red car trying to find the filler
>> panels that fit between the square lamps and the bonnet. I found them, 
>> took
>> pictures and then proceeded to put everything back in the boot. I should
>> explain that the red car has no struts to hold up the hatch and I insert 
>> a
>> stout piece of hardwood to hold the hatch up. In the the process of
>> replacing items in the boot I dislodged the stout piece of hardwood 
>> causing
>> the hatch to rapidly descend upon my skull which was located directly 
>> below
>> the latch. The latch did it's very best to penetrate my cranium.
>> Thankfully, due to many years of struggling with Rovers I have developed 
>> a
>> very hard head. I told the doctor who stitched up my head how it happened
>> and she laughed so hard she almost couldn't sew. If my face is lopsided
>> from unequal tension at the site of the laceration, I have only myself to
>> blame. Owners of P4s and P6s will be in less danger due to the aluminium
>> boot lids, but for the rest of you and especially SD1 owners, please
>> remember to remove your head from the boot before lowering the boot
>> lid/hatch.
>>
>> Roverimpenetrably,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> ****************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>>
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/d05f5dfb/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From allbritishcars at shaw.ca  Tue Nov 22 18:46:03 2011
From: allbritishcars at shaw.ca (Ruth Burgess)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 16:46:03 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] I need Ruths email ..
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<CAG4k1tH2tLX8GF2mOgBepLS9fzGsCaxfPSbVjMroU0wCM0wFtw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C1A22E43DCE4E16A962C7E871DBA775@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <2350AAB1B18B430EB64BAB3077149DCC@sherbrooke>

James -
Well hello again
This is my best e-mail address  allbritishcars at shaw.ca  although 
roverruth at shaw.ca will get me also -
Phone # is 604 294 5747 Hours are 9 - 6 Monday through Friday Pacific Std 
time-
Thanks
Ruth................
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:33 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] I need Ruths email ..


>
> Could someone please give me Ruths' email and phone number, for a parts 
> inquiry?  Thank you, James Dean
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "ROBERT HEIMERL" <robertime at cavtel.net>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 10:11 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing 
> bootlid
>
>
>>
>> Hi Kent,
>>
>> Glad you're recovering from the mishap.  This prompts me to mention --  
>> for
>> any other SD1 owners out there -- that a very good replacement for these
>> gas struts is available from most Auto Zone stores for about $25.  These
>> are Mighty Lift brand, D95995 (assuming they are in the correct 
>> packaging,
>> best to bring an old one along to match up).  I did a reverse search for
>> what else this item might fit and came up with Nissan 350Z's, so it's not
>> something easily found in junkyards.  Another potential solution is to 
>> use
>> those clever, locking bonnet struts off of Sterlings -- probably the only
>> parts on those cars that may be used on SD1's!
>>
>> Domestic-source replacements for SD1 bonnet struts aren't as easy to come
>> up with -- I've had to buy them from Rimmers in the UK, a bit pricey for
>> what they are -- but what price safety?   I even bought their 
>> Triumph-style
>> sliding bonnet support, then realized that it can't be used with the fuel
>> injection's air cleaner box in place.  Mighty Lift items I checked were a
>> bit too long when tested for this application, caused the hood to pop up
>> suddenly -- a different sort of problem that also had potential to cause
>> damage.
>>
>> I've occasionally been in the position of having to use broomsticks, 
>> etc.,
>> to hold open SD1 hatches, but have always been worried about this sort of
>> thing occurring (as you well know, that hatch is very heavy and could
>> easily do serious harm to someone's head) -- hope they checked for a
>> possible concussion.  Head injuries are a very serious matter.  I knocked 
>> a
>> hole through a windshield about 40 years ago, which may help explain my
>> interest in these cars -- particularly their reputation for safety (no, 
>> not
>> what some of you were probably thinking!).  ;-)  One other safeguard is 
>> to
>> detach the straps that lift the rear shelf (assuming it's there), then 
>> flip
>> it up against the glass.  It actually may have been designed for that
>> purpose (more likely a coincidence, though).
>>
>> I suspect you were dealing with a parts car, so you might not want to 
>> rush
>> out to get new hatch struts -- but I thought I'd mention this just in 
>> case
>> anyone else might find this information of use.  For so many years, many
>> critical parts that these cars needed simply weren't available.
>> Fortunately, with the internet and speedy worldwide shipping, it's no
>> longer an insurmountable problem.
>>
>> Something else to be thankful for.
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>> Robert
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 8:51 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Netters,
>>> A word to the wise should be sufficient. I am thankful to be alive. Real
>>> Forest had been asking questions about converting NAS SD1s to square 
>>> lamps.
>>> I was digging around in the boot of the red car trying to find the 
>>> filler
>>> panels that fit between the square lamps and the bonnet. I found them, 
>>> took
>>> pictures and then proceeded to put everything back in the boot. I should
>>> explain that the red car has no struts to hold up the hatch and I insert 
>>> a
>>> stout piece of hardwood to hold the hatch up. In the the process of
>>> replacing items in the boot I dislodged the stout piece of hardwood 
>>> causing
>>> the hatch to rapidly descend upon my skull which was located directly 
>>> below
>>> the latch. The latch did it's very best to penetrate my cranium.
>>> Thankfully, due to many years of struggling with Rovers I have developed 
>>> a
>>> very hard head. I told the doctor who stitched up my head how it 
>>> happened
>>> and she laughed so hard she almost couldn't sew. If my face is lopsided
>>> from unequal tension at the site of the laceration, I have only myself 
>>> to
>>> blame. Owners of P4s and P6s will be in less danger due to the aluminium
>>> boot lids, but for the rest of you and especially SD1 owners, please
>>> remember to remove your head from the boot before lowering the boot
>>> lid/hatch.
>>>
>>> Roverimpenetrably,
>>> Kent K.
>>>
>>> ****************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/**group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>
>>>
>>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111121/d05f5dfb/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> 


From britishrover at gmail.com  Tue Nov 22 19:18:45 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:18:45 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
In-Reply-To: <D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D65@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
	<CA+WAG7hJ_mtw90YjWu_Ebjvft+QtqdoRgoQy78xzywZhtjCJHg@mail.gmail.com>
	<D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D65@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_QZziNcwVYzXyWbk_cNyfgW0KOVpOC_JBiT8vtO2Z0ThQ@mail.gmail.com>

To; Robert Thorton..would you please furnish all the contact
information about what you just explained on the SD1
Hatch?...especially the Summit self locking hood latches!

Pics would be nice too, in the event you have the time to provide
this../ Quite interesting I must say..
Thanks,
Dave
britishrover at gmail,com


On 11/22/11, Robert Thornton <R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com> wrote:
>
> Not a nice experience, the SD1 hatch and huge glass screen are extremely
> heavy (wasn't it supposed to be the biggest production car glass rear screen
> in the world bar the  one used on the Jensen Interceptor).
>
> I replaced the steel hatch on my SD1 with a lightweight fibreglass version
> with lexan/margard screen, and fitted two chromed Lokar self-locking hood
> props in place of the gas struts which I got from Summit. It's one finger
> opening now and it can't come down unless the locks are manually released
> ... no more sore heads.
>
> Cheers
> Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 November 2011 4:18 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
> lid
>
>
> Here's my contribution to the lore.  Back in the old days, the weapon of
> choice for self-inflicted wounds was the bonnet catch on Series II Land
> Rovers.  The thing stuck down right where one's head would be, making an
> impalement inevitable.
>
> There was a local mechanic named Joe Nosker who worked on our Rovers, and
> he complained often of hitting his head on those things.  We used to joke
> about finding him hanging from one, and to this day any such protrusion
> from a bonnet is known as a "Nosker hook."
>
> Gordon.
>
> On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 12:26 PM, Richard Sharpe
> <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Never had an SD1, but I have found that Rovers have a designed-in tendency
>> to do harm to skulls that is unique to the brand:
>> 1. P4 bootlids - even after 30+ years of ownership I still forget to duck
>> the head when stepping back from fossiking in the boot.
>> 2. Land-Rover Series - disconnecting the bonnet stay and swinging it up
>> vertically to the windscreen in order to get access to the engine.  Forget
>> to rope the thing up and sure as sunrise the day will come when it topples
>> down on you - hopefully the blunt force trauma latch will miss its target,
>> but the even so you will see stars.
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: <
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/545ec7eb/attachment.html
>> >
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/1ab8382a/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu  Tue Nov 22 20:13:56 2011
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 21:13:56 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
 lid
In-Reply-To: <BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>, ,
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>,
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>,
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4ECC56E4.40505@alum.swarthmore.edu>

P6's too --  Early Series I 2000 trunk lids don't lift as high as those 
on later P6's -- these tend to get in the way of heads especially when 
the head is used to later P6 trunk openings.

Kent -- glad you and your noggin are OK.

Moind yer 'ead,

Steve


On 11/22/2011 12:26 PM, Richard Sharpe wrote:
>
> Never had an SD1, but I have found that Rovers have a designed-in tendency to do harm to skulls that is unique to the brand:
> 1. P4 bootlids - even after 30+ years of ownership I still forget to duck the head when stepping back from fossiking in the boot.
> 2. Land-Rover Series - disconnecting the bonnet stay and swinging it up vertically to the windscreen in order to get access to the engine.  Forget to rope the thing up and sure as sunrise the day will come when it topples down on you - hopefully the blunt force trauma latch will miss its target, but the even so you will see stars. 		 	   		
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/545ec7eb/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>


From kkinard at att.net  Tue Nov 22 21:09:37 2011
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 21:09:37 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Series 1 SD1 headlamp to bonnet filler panel
In-Reply-To: <CAG4k1tEHL+uiG5JdxHNQpv2eEGvjxFL6uCJxbGy=GkcU69e4sw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<4ECB0653.1020008@att.net>
	<CAG4k1tEHL+uiG5JdxHNQpv2eEGvjxFL6uCJxbGy=GkcU69e4sw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4ECC63F1.10406@att.net>

ROBERT HEIMERL wrote:
> Hi Kent,
>
> I'm still wondering which type of euro headlamps are being installed (early
> inset/metal-backed or later flush-fitting/plastic ones)?
>    
Real has early (Series 1) glass/metal lamps and all my experience is 
with early lamps. I found this conversion to be very easy. Series 1 Euro 
lamps will bolt to the existing backing panel. The long "full width" 
early grill can be installed by spot welding or with pop rivets and the 
filler panels are bolt in.

Roverly,
Kent K.


From R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com  Tue Nov 22 23:18:04 2011
From: R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com (Robert Thornton)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:48:04 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing
	boot	lid
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_QZziNcwVYzXyWbk_cNyfgW0KOVpOC_JBiT8vtO2Z0ThQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
	<CA+WAG7hJ_mtw90YjWu_Ebjvft+QtqdoRgoQy78xzywZhtjCJHg@mail.gmail.com>
	<D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D65@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
	<CAKQjg_QZziNcwVYzXyWbk_cNyfgW0KOVpOC_JBiT8vtO2Z0ThQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D6A@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>

Hi Dave

Series 2 (big window) hatch came from MC Rallying on the Isle of Wight some years ago - really meant for racing, required a lot of work to get it up to an exact fit standard for a road car.... weighs less than a third of original and won't rust. I obtained a lot of other SD1 race weight f/g bits from them including bonnet (hood) bumpers (fenders?), Vitesse '85 on deep chin spoiler and rear hatch spoiler. All up a lot less kgs/lbs to haul around. With a 4.6 it's quite lively, though I'm looking at 5.5 next (Rover/TVR power of course which is about as far as you can go with the RV8 cast alloy block). 

Polycarb screen I got made by City Plastics - 4mm, none heated and no rear wiper fitted. Margard is a coating that resists scratching and weathering. Very light yet quite strong.

Struts:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Lokar/Product-Line/Lokar-Adjustable-Level-Self-Locking-Hood-Prop/?autoview=SKU


Regards
Rob


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of British Rover
Sent: Wednesday, 23 November 2011 11:49 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot lid


To; Robert Thorton..would you please furnish all the contact
information about what you just explained on the SD1
Hatch?...especially the Summit self locking hood latches!

Pics would be nice too, in the event you have the time to provide
this../ Quite interesting I must say..
Thanks,
Dave
britishrover at gmail,com


On 11/22/11, Robert Thornton <R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com> wrote:
>
> Not a nice experience, the SD1 hatch and huge glass screen are extremely
> heavy (wasn't it supposed to be the biggest production car glass rear screen
> in the world bar the  one used on the Jensen Interceptor).
>
> I replaced the steel hatch on my SD1 with a lightweight fibreglass version
> with lexan/margard screen, and fitted two chromed Lokar self-locking hood
> props in place of the gas struts which I got from Summit. It's one finger
> opening now and it can't come down unless the locks are manually released
> ... no more sore heads.
>
> Cheers
> Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 November 2011 4:18 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
> lid
>
>
> Here's my contribution to the lore.  Back in the old days, the weapon of
> choice for self-inflicted wounds was the bonnet catch on Series II Land
> Rovers.  The thing stuck down right where one's head would be, making an
> impalement inevitable.
>
> There was a local mechanic named Joe Nosker who worked on our Rovers, and
> he complained often of hitting his head on those things.  We used to joke
> about finding him hanging from one, and to this day any such protrusion
> from a bonnet is known as a "Nosker hook."
>
> Gordon.
>
> On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 12:26 PM, Richard Sharpe
> <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Never had an SD1, but I have found that Rovers have a designed-in tendency
>> to do harm to skulls that is unique to the brand:
>> 1. P4 bootlids - even after 30+ years of ownership I still forget to duck
>> the head when stepping back from fossiking in the boot.
>> 2. Land-Rover Series - disconnecting the bonnet stay and swinging it up
>> vertically to the windscreen in order to get access to the engine.  Forget
>> to rope the thing up and sure as sunrise the day will come when it topples
>> down on you - hopefully the blunt force trauma latch will miss its target,
>> but the even so you will see stars.
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: <
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/545ec7eb/attachment.html
>> >
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111122/1ab8382a/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/





From britishrover at gmail.com  Wed Nov 23 07:21:19 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 08:21:19 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
In-Reply-To: <D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D6A@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
References: <BAY145-W57954F6C3801511430295495D00@phx.gbl>
	<BLU157-W656CFACC387E4AE9753DF1B8D00@phx.gbl>
	<FD465DB6-7A3D-4C8D-9F60-53544C439226@rymes.net>
	<BLU157-W3420B5807F1A01E6DB4644B8D10@phx.gbl>
	<4ECB0012.4000209@att.net>
	<BLU157-W370030FE1EB712F148E7DEB8C80@phx.gbl>
	<CA+WAG7hJ_mtw90YjWu_Ebjvft+QtqdoRgoQy78xzywZhtjCJHg@mail.gmail.com>
	<D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D65@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
	<CAKQjg_QZziNcwVYzXyWbk_cNyfgW0KOVpOC_JBiT8vtO2Z0ThQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<D6E81B715DDA724499CC686D4F52C93F1060B50D6A@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_RwB9Nisj_oArk4a_d+LKhU+BAcE6wXYR4SYgkjuRxE2A@mail.gmail.com>

Thank You very much..
Dave


From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Wed Nov 23 16:14:58 2011
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:14:58 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door window frame finishers for 2000 TC
Message-ID: <A8BC090C-B68B-4186-8862-E2242008F1CC@telusplanet.net>

Does anyone know of a supplier for the small rubber covered door frame  
finishers that sit at the top of door, ahead and behind the window  
frames?
Part numbers  (front)-364530, 364541 (rear) - 364536, 364547
Thanks.
Roy


From vern at inkspotco.com  Wed Nov 23 17:03:09 2011
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 15:03:09 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door window frame finishers for 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <A8BC090C-B68B-4186-8862-E2242008F1CC@telusplanet.net>
References: <A8BC090C-B68B-4186-8862-E2242008F1CC@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <D26C802F-5C17-44E2-A64C-5127EBC234B3@inkspotco.com>

There is no source that I've ever found. Wish I'd bought a few sets in the 80's

I have a different set of part numbers:

LF 364530/364536

RF 364529/364535

LR 364542/364548

RR 364541/364547

Yours
Vern


On 2011-11-23, at 2:14 PM, Roy Babiuk wrote:

> 
> Does anyone know of a supplier for the small rubber covered door frame finishers that sit at the top of door, ahead and behind the window frames?
> Part numbers  (front)-364530, 364541 (rear) - 364536, 364547
> Thanks.
> Roy
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 

Inkspot Type & Design	250 864 5619	in at inkspotco.com






From scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au  Wed Nov 23 17:07:52 2011
From: scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au (Scott Richmond)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:07:52 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door window frame finishers for 2000 TC
References: <A8BC090C-B68B-4186-8862-E2242008F1CC@telusplanet.net>
	<D26C802F-5C17-44E2-A64C-5127EBC234B3@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <A943C4ABB3564DAAA3EDB4FB9B0570DC@userpc>

Yes, trade secret, we use an extrusion that has to be trimmed to get around 
the corner.
Thankyou,
Scott.


www.facebook.com/pages/Scotts-Old-Auto-Rubber/148580078501350
New email address: scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au
New postal address: P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149
www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au
Open 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models,
12 Haughton Road, Oakleigh, Melbourne 3166,  Australia.
Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
http://www.xe.net/pca/ (Currency Converter)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Vern Klukas" <vern at inkspotco.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Door window frame finishers for 2000 TC


>
> There is no source that I've ever found. Wish I'd bought a few sets in the 
> 80's
>
> I have a different set of part numbers:
>
> LF 364530/364536
>
> RF 364529/364535
>
> LR 364542/364548
>
> RR 364541/364547
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
>
> On 2011-11-23, at 2:14 PM, Roy Babiuk wrote:
>
>>
>> Does anyone know of a supplier for the small rubber covered door frame 
>> finishers that sit at the top of door, ahead and behind the window 
>> frames?
>> Part numbers  (front)-364530, 364541 (rear) - 364536, 364547
>> Thanks.
>> Roy
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
>
>
>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 



From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Wed Nov 23 17:49:41 2011
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 16:49:41 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Door window frame finishers for 2000 TC
Message-ID: <D81D4A77-A761-4B51-AE8C-7D78AE5F3ABC@telusplanet.net>

Thanks Scott.
Email sent.
Roy


From roverman2 at verizon.net  Thu Nov 24 10:49:10 2011
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:49:10 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 Hatch
Message-ID: <FF3F2411-966F-4E1C-8AA4-A37110AFBCFD@verizon.net>

Sorry to hear about your accident Kent!
JC Whitney used to sell a strut which keeps your SD1 hatch up. The  
plastic strut flips into place to keep the hatch up. When you want to  
close the hatch you just pull it aside. Works well except that you  
need 2 hands. I've had them on my SD1's for years.

Happy Holidays!

Dermot Harvey 


From Chris.Powell at plesseysemi.com  Thu Nov 24 15:01:14 2011
From: Chris.Powell at plesseysemi.com (Chris Powell)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 21:01:14 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Warning: Remove head from boot before closing boot
	lid
Message-ID: <FB84990D7056EE43B14E2DE7617F878A0FF257FD@exchange.europe.plesseysemi.com>


Hope the head is recovering from your SD1 mishap Kent.

To follow up Robert's suggestions r.e. hatch struts. The Rover SD1 Club in the UK have the correct hatch and bonnet struts available sourced from Gas Strut Engineering in the UK, and will post abroad I believe. They are certainly parts worth checking regularly. The original manufacturer of the struts, Stabilus in Germany, will also supply the struts given a part number I've been told. Rimmers in the UK also had some Chinese-manufacturer struts - these were at least initially far too powerful, resulting in the bonnet opening being pushed forward in the closed position. I had failing bonnet struts on my SD1 Vitesse soon after purchase, more than once that sizable bonnet decided to descend at terminal velocity toward my head!


Chris.
________________________________
 This email and any attachments to it may be confidential and are intended solely for the use of the individual to whom it is addressed. Any views or opinions expressed are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Plessey Semiconductors Ltd. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you must neither take any action based upon its contents, nor copy or show it to anyone. Please contact the sender if you believe you have received this email in error Plessey Semiconductors Ltd is a company registered in England and Wales under number 4129612 with VAT number GB 787 3513 93


From Chris.Powell at plesseysemi.com  Thu Nov 24 15:12:05 2011
From: Chris.Powell at plesseysemi.com (Chris Powell)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 21:12:05 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ]  Series 1 SD1 headlamp to bonnet filler panel
Message-ID: <FB84990D7056EE43B14E2DE7617F878A0FF25808@exchange.europe.plesseysemi.com>

The panels BRC1792 (right) and BRC1793 (left) filler panels are noted for early SD1s or those without air conditioning. Later parts guides list BRC5456 (right) for cars with or without air conditioning, BRC5457 (left) for cars with air conditioning. All rather confusing, but I would think the later type BRC545x is shaped to avoid the air conditioning fans..?

> Once again...
> I should report that BRC1792 and BRC1793 filler panels appear to have
> been superseded by BRC5456 and BRC5457. If there is a difference, I
> can't tell it. Only BRC5456 is still available from Rimmers. If you have
> friends in the UK SD1 Club, you would do well to beg them to visit the
> breakers yards before the supply of SD1s there is exhausted. If you want
> to see what they look like, I have some recent pics taken at great expense.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
________________________________
 This email and any attachments to it may be confidential and are intended solely for the use of the individual to whom it is addressed. Any views or opinions expressed are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Plessey Semiconductors Ltd. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you must neither take any action based upon its contents, nor copy or show it to anyone. Please contact the sender if you believe you have received this email in error Plessey Semiconductors Ltd is a company registered in England and Wales under number 4129612 with VAT number GB 787 3513 93


From Chris.Powell at plesseysemi.com  Thu Nov 24 15:29:07 2011
From: Chris.Powell at plesseysemi.com (Chris Powell)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 21:29:07 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ]  Just Curious,
 within the Rover Spectrum of our networking....
Message-ID: <FB84990D7056EE43B14E2DE7617F878A0FF25817@exchange.europe.plesseysemi.com>


I'll hold my hands up and admit I've got Robert's platinum SD1 back here in the UK. It is currently undergoing extended restoration, which unfortunately meant it didn't make it to the NEC/Birmingham show earlier this month. The car is very solid, far more so than the vast majority of UK SD1's, but has flat paint and a small amount of rot. I'm being assured by the guys doing the bodywork it'll be a gem of an SD1 once completed (and I've no reason to doubt them, they've done sterling work on my other SD1 in past years). My SD1s:

1980 Rover SD1 North American Specification, 5-speed manual, Platinum Silver
1986 Rover SD1 Vitesse twin-throttle plenum, 5-speed manual, Targa Red

I recently spoke to a former Rover test/development driver. He was one of the test drivers for the NAS SD1 back in the late 1970s, amongst other SD1 test driving. The car had to complete 50k miles of running to prove emission control still functioned at this mileage. Sounds a rather boring task, rather than being able to drive to the north of Scotland or somewhere interesting, they had a planned route up and down the A45/A46 between Solihull and Rugby (about 30 miles) with stops in lay-bys to simulate stop-start driving.

> The Platinum SD1 I previously owned was shipped back to England earlier this
> year, in an unusual sort of reverse commute.  It now belongs to the
> historian of the UK's SD1 Club (who hopes to have it ready for the big
> NEC/Birmingham show next month).
________________________________
 This email and any attachments to it may be confidential and are intended solely for the use of the individual to whom it is addressed. Any views or opinions expressed are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Plessey Semiconductors Ltd. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, you must neither take any action based upon its contents, nor copy or show it to anyone. Please contact the sender if you believe you have received this email in error Plessey Semiconductors Ltd is a company registered in England and Wales under number 4129612 with VAT number GB 787 3513 93


From britishrover at gmail.com  Thu Nov 24 19:41:31 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 20:41:31 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 Hatch
In-Reply-To: <FF3F2411-966F-4E1C-8AA4-A37110AFBCFD@verizon.net>
References: <FF3F2411-966F-4E1C-8AA4-A37110AFBCFD@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_R6Z4p=zzLzRAdF+=xbfcKw-22ywpJa85h2X-AzsC_==A@mail.gmail.com>

Dermot, you think you might still have a catalog with that item
description and item number  still described?
Thanks

Dave

On 11/24/11, Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Sorry to hear about your accident Kent!
> JC Whitney used to sell a strut which keeps your SD1 hatch up. The
> plastic strut flips into place to keep the hatch up. When you want to
> close the hatch you just pull it aside. Works well except that you
> need 2 hands. I've had them on my SD1's for years.
>
> Happy Holidays!
>
> Dermot Harvey
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au  Thu Nov 24 20:33:13 2011
From: scottsoldautorubber at bigpond.com.au (Scott Richmond)
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 13:33:13 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover 2000 TC Door window frame finishers
References: <20111124065017.30E5C55459@bne3-0001wm.server-mail.com>
Message-ID: <457739E0979C4BE99D864109BCE083E3@userpc>

See extrusion 225.002 at http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page9.jpg
$10.35/metre AUD.
Thankyou,
Scott.


www.facebook.com/pages/Scotts-Old-Auto-Rubber/148580078501350
New email address: scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au
New postal address: P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149
www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au 
Open 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
Closed Saturday and Sunday.
Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models,
12 Haughton Road, Oakleigh, Melbourne 3166,  Australia.
Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
http://www.xe.net/pca/ (Currency Converter)
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "scott" <scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au>
To: <scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: Rover 2000 TC Door window frame finishers


> Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> 
>> Hi Scott.
>> Thanks for your reply on Rovernet.
>> Do you have a price and part numbers for this extrusion?
>> I am also looking for front vent window seals, and seals for fixed  
>> rear vent windows.
>> Do you have either of these in stock?
>> Thanks.
>> Roy
> 
> 
> 
> -- 9 - 5.00 Monday to Friday.
> www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au 
> Automotive Rubber and Seals for Many Makes and Models,
> P.O. Box 105, Mount Waverley 3149, Victoria,  Australia.
> Phone and Fax: + 61- 3 - 9563 3023
> http://www.xe.net/pca/ 
> (Currency Converter)
> scott at scottsoldautorubber.com.au
> Closed Saturday and Sunday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>


From tom at rymes.net  Sat Nov 26 21:43:26 2011
From: tom at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 22:43:26 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
References: <50C2242F-9A02-41F8-A8BA-4A8DD51B3C8D@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net>

See this post on the MGE: http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,1913937,1914109

I have no connection or any other information on the car's condition.

Tom

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111126/d4f4fbbd/attachment.html>

From britishrover at gmail.com  Sat Nov 26 22:53:30 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 23:53:30 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
In-Reply-To: <339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net>
References: <50C2242F-9A02-41F8-A8BA-4A8DD51B3C8D@rymes.net>
	<339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_R26PrbkiQ=WmwWA3qwM6qYEBaqCgy4koLhz3vr0M5Gmw@mail.gmail.com>

..Good "save"..or Rather "Try to Save" Tom..hopefully someone can Save
th Whale with this one?
Atleat your concious is Clear..lol...and you've tried!

Dave
SD1 x 3
827Sli x 1
..and that's all I can do..in this Life time...

take care

On 11/26/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>
> See this post on the MGE:
> http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,1913937,1914109
>
> I have no connection or any other information on the car's condition.
>
> Tom
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111126/d4f4fbbd/attachment.html>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From tom at rymes.net  Sat Nov 26 23:25:22 2011
From: tom at rymes.net (Tom Rymes)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 00:25:22 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_R26PrbkiQ=WmwWA3qwM6qYEBaqCgy4koLhz3vr0M5Gmw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <50C2242F-9A02-41F8-A8BA-4A8DD51B3C8D@rymes.net>
	<339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net>
	<CAKQjg_R26PrbkiQ=WmwWA3qwM6qYEBaqCgy4koLhz3vr0M5Gmw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6F7C7384-526E-408B-96DE-C25273EFA6BB@rymes.net>

Yeah, I'm still in the process of saving this P5, so even asking for photos of this SD1 would have me in the doghouse.

Tom

On Nov 26, 2011, at 11:53 PM, British Rover wrote:

> 
> ..Good "save"..or Rather "Try to Save" Tom..hopefully someone can Save
> th Whale with this one?
> Atleat your concious is Clear..lol...and you've tried!
> 
> Dave
> SD1 x 3
> 827Sli x 1
> ..and that's all I can do..in this Life time...
> 
> take care
> 
> On 11/26/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>> 
>> See this post on the MGE:
>> http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,1913937,1914109
>> 
>> I have no connection or any other information on the car's condition.
>> 
>> Tom
>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111126/d4f4fbbd/attachment.html>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
>> 
> 
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From britishrover at gmail.com  Sun Nov 27 08:04:44 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 09:04:44 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
In-Reply-To: <6F7C7384-526E-408B-96DE-C25273EFA6BB@rymes.net>
References: <50C2242F-9A02-41F8-A8BA-4A8DD51B3C8D@rymes.net>
	<339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net>
	<CAKQjg_R26PrbkiQ=WmwWA3qwM6qYEBaqCgy4koLhz3vr0M5Gmw@mail.gmail.com>
	<6F7C7384-526E-408B-96DE-C25273EFA6BB@rymes.net>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_TC9w1xrN8c+7JHnh59NFvrpLU7wqfhgJSc3-P8YkZR7Q@mail.gmail.com>

...Acknowledged,  throw me a Bone..lol...

On 11/27/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I'm still in the process of saving this P5, so even asking for photos
> of this SD1 would have me in the doghouse.
>
> Tom
>
> On Nov 26, 2011, at 11:53 PM, British Rover wrote:
>
>>
>> ..Good "save"..or Rather "Try to Save" Tom..hopefully someone can Save
>> th Whale with this one?
>> Atleat your concious is Clear..lol...and you've tried!
>>
>> Dave
>> SD1 x 3
>> 827Sli x 1
>> ..and that's all I can do..in this Life time...
>>
>> take care
>>
>> On 11/26/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> See this post on the MGE:
>>> http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,1913937,1914109
>>>
>>> I have no connection or any other information on the car's condition.
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20111126/d4f4fbbd/attachment.html>
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From bsaunders at firstva.com  Sun Nov 27 09:52:47 2011
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 10:52:47 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_TC9w1xrN8c+7JHnh59NFvrpLU7wqfhgJSc3-P8YkZR7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <50C2242F-9A02-41F8-A8BA-4A8DD51B3C8D@rymes.net><339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net><CAKQjg_R26PrbkiQ=WmwWA3qwM6qYEBaqCgy4koLhz3vr0M5Gmw@mail.gmail.com><6F7C7384-526E-408B-96DE-C25273EFA6BB@rymes.net>
	<CAKQjg_TC9w1xrN8c+7JHnh59NFvrpLU7wqfhgJSc3-P8YkZR7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BDC703C8281A431F8B0E299F121E6A83@SD1>

Hey Guys, 
I need to let go of my 1980 Rover SD1 so let me know if you are interested.
I would rather not use Ebay since it might go to a MG hot rod buyer.
Ben Saunders
Virginia, USA

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of British Rover
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 9:05 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO


...Acknowledged,  throw me a Bone..lol...

On 11/27/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I'm still in the process of saving this P5, so even asking for
photos
> of this SD1 would have me in the doghouse.
>
> Tom
>
> On Nov 26, 2011, at 11:53 PM, British Rover wrote:
>
>>
>> ..Good "save"..or Rather "Try to Save" Tom..hopefully someone can Save
>> th Whale with this one?
>> Atleat your concious is Clear..lol...and you've tried!
>>
>> Dave
>> SD1 x 3
>> 827Sli x 1
>> ..and that's all I can do..in this Life time...
>>
>> take care
>>
>> On 11/26/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> See this post on the MGE:
>>> http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,1913937,1914109
>>>
>>> I have no connection or any other information on the car's condition.
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011112
6/d4f4fbbd/attachment.html>
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2101/4641 - Release Date: 11/26/11



From britishrover at gmail.com  Sun Nov 27 20:47:24 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 21:47:24 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
In-Reply-To: <BDC703C8281A431F8B0E299F121E6A83@SD1>
References: <50C2242F-9A02-41F8-A8BA-4A8DD51B3C8D@rymes.net>
	<339855AA-688B-4C37-8C43-B2EA90CA9877@rymes.net>
	<CAKQjg_R26PrbkiQ=WmwWA3qwM6qYEBaqCgy4koLhz3vr0M5Gmw@mail.gmail.com>
	<6F7C7384-526E-408B-96DE-C25273EFA6BB@rymes.net>
	<CAKQjg_TC9w1xrN8c+7JHnh59NFvrpLU7wqfhgJSc3-P8YkZR7Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<BDC703C8281A431F8B0E299F121E6A83@SD1>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_Rma83Z8ngKPgmHmZmZ-je-hR2kEP4w=Ot=RBjjWc_w8g@mail.gmail.com>

Will keep All, in mind Ben..never know who knows who, and of course
contacts make things work..
tcare,
Dave

On 11/27/11, Ben Saunders <bsaunders at firstva.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
> I need to let go of my 1980 Rover SD1 so let me know if you are interested.
> I would rather not use Ebay since it might go to a MG hot rod buyer.
> Ben Saunders
> Virginia, USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of British Rover
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 9:05 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] SD1 available in Georgia, USA - $2,400 OBO
>
>
> ...Acknowledged,  throw me a Bone..lol...
>
> On 11/27/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, I'm still in the process of saving this P5, so even asking for
> photos
>> of this SD1 would have me in the doghouse.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Nov 26, 2011, at 11:53 PM, British Rover wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> ..Good "save"..or Rather "Try to Save" Tom..hopefully someone can Save
>>> th Whale with this one?
>>> Atleat your concious is Clear..lol...and you've tried!
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> SD1 x 3
>>> 827Sli x 1
>>> ..and that's all I can do..in this Life time...
>>>
>>> take care
>>>
>>> On 11/26/11, Tom Rymes <tom at rymes.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> See this post on the MGE:
>>>> http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,1913937,1914109
>>>>
>>>> I have no connection or any other information on the car's condition.
>>>>
>>>> Tom
>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> URL:
>>>>
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/2011112
> 6/d4f4fbbd/attachment.html>
>>>> **************************************
>>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> **************************************
>>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>>
>>
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2101/4641 - Release Date: 11/26/11
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>


From jLewis at wsscwater.com  Mon Nov 28 07:50:18 2011
From: jLewis at wsscwater.com (Lewis, Joseph (Michael))
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 08:50:18 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 Hatch
In-Reply-To: <CAKQjg_R6Z4p=zzLzRAdF+=xbfcKw-22ywpJa85h2X-AzsC_==A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FF3F2411-966F-4E1C-8AA4-A37110AFBCFD@verizon.net>
	<CAKQjg_R6Z4p=zzLzRAdF+=xbfcKw-22ywpJa85h2X-AzsC_==A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C015C631A@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>

I had this happen too. I was using a 2x2 to keep it up. Worked for a
while. 
It finally slipped one day and...
You know, it isn't heavy until it strikes the back of your head and you
try to get it off. Gives you a new perspective on the importance or
equilibrium. 
 
Anyway, I found the replacement part at Trak/Advance Auto. I just took
the old one in and matched it up. That was 13 years ago and it still
holds. 

J. Michael Lewis
80 SD1
91 Sterling 827Si
91 Sterling SLi
74 Jensen Interceptor

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of British Rover
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 8:42 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] SD1 Hatch


Dermot, you think you might still have a catalog with that item
description and item number  still described?
Thanks

Dave

On 11/24/11, Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Sorry to hear about your accident Kent!
> JC Whitney used to sell a strut which keeps your SD1 hatch up. The
> plastic strut flips into place to keep the hatch up. When you want to
> close the hatch you just pull it aside. Works well except that you
> need 2 hands. I've had them on my SD1's for years.
>
> Happy Holidays!
>
> Dermot Harvey
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>

**************************************
Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From britishrover at gmail.com  Mon Nov 28 08:48:17 2011
From: britishrover at gmail.com (British Rover)
Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:48:17 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 Hatch
In-Reply-To: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C015C631A@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
References: <FF3F2411-966F-4E1C-8AA4-A37110AFBCFD@verizon.net>
	<CAKQjg_R6Z4p=zzLzRAdF+=xbfcKw-22ywpJa85h2X-AzsC_==A@mail.gmail.com>
	<B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C015C631A@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Message-ID: <CAKQjg_Q2EpaWWJrHZ0TBRXxXRedfWPNLC3=Ei-qVjPBewmcR4A@mail.gmail.com>

..Any luck on th 827Sli Manual..;O)..?..Yesterday had to fix a short
in the plastic right rear tail light unit -these items are of just
brittle and lousy quality..it had popped the tail light fuse..inwhich
in finding the panel fusebox under the steering wheel was 'JUST AS
CLEAR AS MUDD'..in it's location description of the RIGHT rear tail
light..AND  then of all things, the Left side, and Right side fuses
WERE reversed as to normal listing on the fuse box..I mean this came
from the factory this way..Can't believe "SIMPLE" is out of the
question, when you manufactor a car!!!.go figure!....lol, ha, no
actually it wasn't funny!..Oh well.
Dave


On 11/28/11, Lewis, Joseph (Michael) <jLewis at wsscwater.com> wrote:
>
> I had this happen too. I was using a 2x2 to keep it up. Worked for a
> while.
> It finally slipped one day and...
> You know, it isn't heavy until it strikes the back of your head and you
> try to get it off. Gives you a new perspective on the importance or
> equilibrium.
>
> Anyway, I found the replacement part at Trak/Advance Auto. I just took
> the old one in and matched it up. That was 13 years ago and it still
> holds.
>
> J. Michael Lewis
> 80 SD1
> 91 Sterling 827Si
> 91 Sterling SLi
> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of British Rover
> Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 8:42 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] SD1 Hatch
>
>
> Dermot, you think you might still have a catalog with that item
> description and item number  still described?
> Thanks
>
> Dave
>
> On 11/24/11, Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> Sorry to hear about your accident Kent!
>> JC Whitney used to sell a strut which keeps your SD1 hatch up. The
>> plastic strut flips into place to keep the hatch up. When you want to
>> close the hatch you just pull it aside. Works well except that you
>> need 2 hands. I've had them on my SD1's for years.
>>
>> Happy Holidays!
>>
>> Dermot Harvey
>>
>> **************************************
>> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> **************************************
> Join the back-up list or look at or post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>