>
From hdmanwell at alumni.bates.edu Thu Jul 1 18:28:45 2010
From: hdmanwell at alumni.bates.edu (Henry Manwell)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 19:28:45 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] RA 10 - a few pictures
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP1003D107DBE784D04FB848291C90@phx.gbl>
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<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160825DB@Server.adoptsec.local>
<BLU0-SMTP1003D107DBE784D04FB848291C90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CD063049-0EF7-4BC6-A92B-10ABBD26DBC6@alumni.bates.edu>
Hello to all (around the world).
Catching up here more than a week after RovAmerica 10. Yes, thanks to all who played a role in making it happen - including those of you who traveled thousands of miles and helped give it a really international feel. And perhaps we haven't given proper recognition to George in Dirk's shop who pulled Steve Dibdin's P6 back into shape and has worked so much with son, Steven, make our Tourer's bodywork presentable again. That process will continue for a few more weeks perhaps culminating is fresh paint on the whole car. Steven is, at the very least, co-owner of that car now having orchestrated the improved fit of the aluminum along with a couple of replicated hood sides. That work was done by Steve Hall - a P5 owner - at The Panel Shop in Connecticut.
In addition to organizing the RovAmerica 10 event, Dirk personally and unselfishly helped virtually all of in some way with Rover related project work both on site in the shop or with parts to take back home.
Thanks for the link to our Tourer pictures in the TARC site, Bill. It's hard to belief those shots were taken here in the back yard at least 30 years ago. We made a pretty good restoration of the chassis then, but didn't have the resources to make the aluminum work really right and settled for a good reliable runner - thanks to RSR folks of the 70s for the parts roundup. Steve has picked up where we left off and has set his sights on a high degree of originality and perfection for the completed body restoration and chassis recommissioning.
Thanks to several of you for all the posted pictures; I have forwarded some of them to local antique car guys here in Central New York who have never seen a Rover sedan other than the Mexico Brown P6 I drive around.
Hank
On Jun 27, 2010, at 7:54 AM, Magnet wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Yes, we did indeed have a great time. The Tourer you see belongs to Hank Manwell, I don't have his email address, but I'm reasonably certain he reads this list. There are a few more photos of it on the TARC site, at
>
> http://www.roverclub.org/henrym.htm
>
> The other old Rovers in the photo are mainly from Dirk Burrowes' collection (see http://www.roveramerica.com/Dirks_Cars.html ) and left to right are a 1926 9/20, a 1929 saloon with fabric-covered body by Weymann, a 1933 Meteor, a 1948 P3, a 1950 P4 "Cyclops", and a 105R. After that come my 1959 "90", and (perhaps) Lloyd LeGrow's P5 and Steve Manwell's "100".
>
> Cheers,
>
> -- Bill
>
> ==================================
>
> Dennis Gallacher wrote:
>> Hello Bill,
>> Having a break from the garage I thought I would have a look at the
>> photos. Looks like you blokes had a super time. Would have liked to have
>> gone however as it was in Boston not sure if we limeys are forgiven for
>> the tea tax...! More so when I look at the two soldiers, that pointy
>> thing on the end of the musket looks a bit sharp to me. (smile)
>>
>> Being more a fan of the pre WWII cars the photos of the old cars
>> appealed to me most. In the second photo down there is a line up outside
>> a white wall. Going from left to right the fourth car along looks like a
>> tourer. Is that a P2 12 or a special? If it is a special do you have an
>> email for the owner, as I would like to see more of the car. Also in the
>> fifth photo down there are two that have me interested this time going
>> right to left they are the fourth and fifth cars. Forth I'm not sure of
>> as I can only see an unusual front. Then there is a toured again but is
>> this a special.
>> As you may have guessed the specials or unusual cars are what I like.
>> Just wondering if you have more information or photos you could send
>> down to Oz.
>>
>> Thanks for posting the link.
>> Den.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>> On Behalf Of Magnet
>> Sent: Saturday, 26 June 2010 7:46 AM
>> To: ROVERNET
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] RA 10 - a few pictures
>>
>> To whet your appetite for the "official" photos that Eric Russell so kindly took of RoveAmerica 10, I have posted a few that I took to:
>>
>> http://www.roverclub.org/ra10
>>
>> There are 10 photos of some of the Rovers at Dirk's works in Fitchburg, and 9 of the Rovers at Fanueil Hall, in Boston.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> -- Bill D.
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
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From mp349 at xtra.co.nz Fri Jul 2 21:18:53 2010
From: mp349 at xtra.co.nz (Michael Pellow)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 14:18:53 +1200
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <1553B78867E14C99AABE1A174BB5D374@Vista>
References: <707609046.8315281277598154142.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><F0A1E593-56F7-4F51-A30D-B335AD10051F@gmail.com> <82EA414B-88BE-4F79-B138-220031C7A427@inkspotco.com>
<1553B78867E14C99AABE1A174BB5D374@Vista>
Message-ID: <4C2E9E0D.70809@xtra.co.nz>
On 27/06/2010 2:14 p.m., Netspace wrote:
> V8s in Australia had mech pumps with a fuel line feed past the left
> exhaust manifold.
> Strangely they had vapour lock problems in summer here... and Leyland
> England refused to acknowledge it as fact.
> Electric pumps fix it.
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vern Klukas" <vern at inkspotco.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 11:06 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
>
>> The 4 cyl pumps with the metal bowls are high pressure pumps
>> introduced when they added a return line to the fuel tank to try and
>> prevent vapour lock. High pressure being a relative term, of course.
>>
>> The V8's all used electrical pumps as far as I know, but that's not
>> my area.
>>
>> Yours
>> Vern
>>
>>
>> On 2010-06-26, at 5:33 PM, Steven Dibdin wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Slats
>>>
>>> The P6 2000 2200 engines have a delco mechanical pump. Normally with
>>> a glass receptical on top but I have seen them with a steel one too.
>>>
>>> Can't speak for the 3500s but I'm sure someone will chime in.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 26, 2010, at 8:22 PM, slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
>>>> passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting
>>>> them to solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B
>>>> series of Rovers. What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6
>>>> and also the P-B? I know that my P-5 has a double ended electric SU
>>>> of the 1500 Series. Each end works separately, as opposed to a 1400
>>>> series used on Rolls & Bentley that both ends work at the same time
>>>> for volume. The P-5 uses one end for normal use and the other as a
>>>> reserve fuel supply and back-up pump. In fact are the P-6 and or
>>>> P-6B electric pumps. I know that SU did make some mechanical units.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Slats
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "rick mellenger" <ve7axq at shaw.ca>
>>>> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>>> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 1:57:17 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well I live in southern BC. Near Vancouver. I got it from All
>>>> British Car
>>>> parts. Ruth loves ROVERS, In the kit the 2 valves are included. I
>>>> wonder if
>>>> you blew air through them to make sure they are opening and closing
>>>> properly. Any loss there would also affect volume. Don't forget the
>>>> valve
>>>> below and back from the pump, that controls the reserve supply
>>>> opening.\it
>>>> might have slipped so it is partially closing the main flow. The
>>>> pump seems
>>>> to be the same as i had in my 65 land rover, except glass in on top
>>>> in the
>>>> car.
>>>> Good luck
>>>> Rick me.
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
>>>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
>>>> Behalf Of Dennis Brooks
>>>> Sent: June-25-10 8:07 PM
>>>> To: Rovernet
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Rick...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My pump is not very old...and I think I have a spare...but where do
>>>> you get
>>>> the replacement membrane ? Just as a point of interest ...did you
>>>> kow that
>>>> the stock fuel pump is exactly the same as is used on small single
>>>> engine
>>>> airplanes ? I wonder if our local flying club would have the
>>>> membrane ..it
>>>> may be worth checking with them.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Regards
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Dennis Brooks
>>>>> From: ve7axq at shaw.ca
>>>>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>>>>> Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:31:10 -0700
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>>>>>
>>>>> I would rebuild the fuel pump if it was me. The membrane could be
>>>>> weakened
>>>>> from age/ mine was. If you take the line off at the carbs, and
>>>>> hand pump
>>>>> it. And it doesn't shoot out past the fender, it's the pump
>>>>> membrane, only
>>>>> costs a few buck. My p6 2000tc, runs like a top now, all the best,
>>>>> Rick mellenger
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
>>>>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>>>> On
>>>>> Behalf Of Dennis Brooks
>>>>> Sent: June-25-10 5:43 PM
>>>>> To: Rovernet
>>>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Well...the fuel return line did seem blocked ...I tried to blow air
>>>> through
>>>>> and could not by mouth...used compressor and actually heard
>>>>> something let
>>>>> go...hope it was a good thing !! of course I did have the fuel
>>>>> cover open
>>>>> at the time.
>>>>>
>>>>> I tried starting the car but still only ran for a few seconds then
>>>>> died as
>>>>> before...then I decided to check the fuel flow again (did it last
>>>>> fall and
>>>>> was ok then) ...this tie it only pumps a little fuel followed by a
>>>>> spit of
>>>>> fuel and air...This may mean bad or clogged fuel filter. I don't
>>>>> think the
>>>>> pump would be bad ...do you ?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Dennis Brooks
>>>>>
>>>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>>>> MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
>>>>> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
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>>>>> to scroll down the whole page.
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this
>>>>> page. Be
>>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>>
>>>> _________________________________________________________________
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>>>
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>>
>> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
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>
P6 used a mechanical fuel pum driven off the auxillary shaft on the R
H side looking from inside car that drives the oil pump and the
distributer. P6b 's have a mechanical pump on the other side of the
engine .they both used the same plumbing down the RH side of the car to
a fuel tap on the fire wall for main/reserve .on the V8 it then went
acroos the back of the moter & down to the fuel pump. To stop
vaperisation they ran a return pipe back to the fuel tank so that petrol
was always running through the line.This only works well if the valves
are ok & there is no air leak in the fuel lines.A common problem is the
O ring sealing the fuel tap becomes hard with old age and allows air to
be sucked in reducing the efficiency of the pump.
of course, being Rover they didnt change the position of the tap when
they squeased the V8 in so it is quite hard to get at!!!
Later cars & I think all the American cars had an electric fuel pump
with the reserve tap right at the back
From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Fri Jul 2 23:01:56 2010
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 21:01:56 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <4C2E9E0D.70809@xtra.co.nz>
References: <707609046.8315281277598154142.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<F0A1E593-56F7-4F51-A30D-B335AD10051F@gmail.com>
<82EA414B-88BE-4F79-B138-220031C7A427@inkspotco.com>
<1553B78867E14C99AABE1A174BB5D374@Vista>
<4C2E9E0D.70809@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <AANLkTiluKrVOcUh40eyeGS7Zy-ttcBdw9loeFc64eFeX@mail.gmail.com>
Going back to the original question, P6Bs that had electric pumps
were usually fitted with a Bendix unit rather than SU. The modern
Facet pump is a bolt in replacement
> I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
> passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting them to
> solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B series of Rovers.
> What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6 and also the P-B? I
From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Jul 3 00:32:27 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 05:32:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTiluKrVOcUh40eyeGS7Zy-ttcBdw9loeFc64eFeX@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1065673263.309961278135147027.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Being that I am primarily an MG guy, I will state that I absolutely hate Facet pumps. Yes, they do work, but they run continuously and are much noisier than SU pumps. The noice drives me batty. I know some folks that have installed them as a back-up pump, between the fuel tank and the SU, with a separate switch. My P-5 Rover has a double ended SU with one end being the main and the other the reserve. This pump is mounted high on the bulkhead of the trunk. No valves just a two position switch on the dash. This pump puts out about 3.8 PSI and has a capacity of 15 GPH, but it does stop clicking when the fuel pressure is met. I love SU's as they run fast for a few seconds to fill the carb/s and then only an occasional tick as required to maintain the float level.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton" <smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, July 2, 2010 9:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
Going back to the original question, ?P6Bs that had electric pumps
were usually ?fitted with a Bendix unit rather than SU. The modern
Facet pump is a bolt in replacement
> I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
> passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting them to
> solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B series of Rovers.
> What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6 and also the P-B? I
To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From renovations.plus at hotmail.com Sat Jul 3 05:19:00 2010
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 08:19:00 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <1065673263.309961278135147027.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <AANLkTiluKrVOcUh40eyeGS7Zy-ttcBdw9loeFc64eFeX@mail.gmail.com>,
<1065673263.309961278135147027.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY145-w62C78F627ECF19C0FBB1D995CF0@phx.gbl>
Hmmm ...now I am getting confused..(quite easily done)...my P6B has and always had a Bendix fuel pump...to be honest I never heard tell of anything other than a bendix for the "s" in the North american market...but bendix supplied these pumps in light aircraft for years before Rover decided to fit them in the P6B . I am gathering that there as an SU electric pump fitted in some ...someplace as well...is this correct ?
BTW...my pump is working but the darned fuel is simply not reaching it ...I nay need to clean the lines and tank..dunno..lol
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 05:32:27 +0000
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
>
>
> Being that I am primarily an MG guy, I will state that I absolutely hate Facet pumps. Yes, they do work, but they run continuously and are much noisier than SU pumps. The noice drives me batty. I know some folks that have installed them as a back-up pump, between the fuel tank and the SU, with a separate switch. My P-5 Rover has a double ended SU with one end being the main and the other the reserve. This pump is mounted high on the bulkhead of the trunk. No valves just a two position switch on the dash. This pump puts out about 3.8 PSI and has a capacity of 15 GPH, but it does stop clicking when the fuel pressure is met. I love SU's as they run fast for a few seconds to fill the carb/s and then only an occasional tick as required to maintain the float level.
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton" <smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, July 2, 2010 9:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
> Going back to the original question, P6Bs that had electric pumps
> were usually fitted with a Bendix unit rather than SU. The modern
> Facet pump is a bolt in replacement
>
>
>
>
> > I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
> > passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting them to
> > solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B series of Rovers.
> > What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6 and also the P-B? I
>
> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> -------------- next part --------------
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From aboasberg at webtv.net Sat Jul 3 08:41:40 2010
From: aboasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 13:41:40 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
Message-ID: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl>
The back-up lights on my Rover 3500S don't work.
I am told I need a new neutral safety switch.
Where would I find one?
Thanks.
Albert
From rovercar at comcast.net Sat Jul 3 10:10:55 2010
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 11:10:55 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <1065673263.309961278135147027.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1065673263.309961278135147027.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C2F52FF.1090300@comcast.net>
On 07/03/2010 01:32 AM, slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
> Being that I am primarily an MG guy, I will state that I absolutely hate Facet pumps. Yes, they do work, but they run continuously and are much noisier than SU pumps. The noice drives me batty. I know some folks that have installed them as a back-up pump, between the fuel tank and the SU, with a separate switch. My P-5 Rover has a double ended SU with one end being the main and the other the reserve. This pump is mounted high on the bulkhead of the trunk. No valves just a two position switch on the dash. This pump puts out about 3.8 PSI and has a capacity of 15 GPH, but it does stop clicking when the fuel pressure is met. I love SU's as they run fast for a few seconds to fill the carb/s and then only an occasional tick as required to maintain the float level.
>
>
>
> Slats
>
Holy Mackerel! I completely agree with Slats!
Glen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton"<smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..."<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, July 2, 2010 9:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
> Going back to the original question, P6Bs that had electric pumps
> were usually fitted with a Bendix unit rather than SU. The modern
> Facet pump is a bolt in replacement
>
>
>
>
>
>> I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
>> passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting them to
>> solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B series of Rovers.
>> What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6 and also the P-B? I
>>
> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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>
From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Jul 3 13:36:45 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 18:36:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <4C2F52FF.1090300@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <644280878.402291278182205992.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Glen,
That makes one in a row!
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Wilson" <rovercar at comcast.net>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2010 8:10:55 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
On 07/03/2010 01:32 AM, slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
> Being that I am primarily an MG guy, I will state that I absolutely hate Facet pumps. Yes, they do work, but they run continuously and are much noisier than SU pumps. The noice drives me batty. I know some folks that have installed them as a back-up pump, between the fuel tank and the SU, with a separate switch. My P-5 Rover has a double ended SU with one end being the main and the other the reserve. This pump is mounted high on the bulkhead of the trunk. No valves just a two position switch on the dash. This pump puts out about 3.8 PSI and has a capacity of 15 GPH, but it does stop clicking when the fuel pressure is met. I love SU's as they run fast for a few seconds to fill the carb/s and then only an occasional tick as required to maintain the float level.
>
>
>
> Slats
> ? ?
Holy Mackerel! ?I completely agree with Slats!
Glen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton"<smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..."<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, July 2, 2010 9:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
> Going back to the original question, ?P6Bs that had electric pumps
> were usually ?fitted with a Bendix unit rather than SU. The modern
> Facet pump is a bolt in replacement
>
>
>
>
> ? ?
>> I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
>> passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting them to
>> solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B series of Rovers.
>> What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6 and also the P-B? I
>> ? ? ?
> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> ? ?
To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Jul 3 13:46:07 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 18:46:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-w62C78F627ECF19C0FBB1D995CF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Dennis,
Mine is a P-5, 3 Liter and the SU was original equipment. Many/most British cars used SU fuel pumps from back in the 30's. I have no idea why they went toa Bendix on P-6's unless it was a pressure thing. A single sided SU will put out 3.8 PSI and 15 GPH. A double sided will produce the same 3.8 PSI and 30 GPH. I am currently working on a pump for a 1960 Rolls which is double sided, with both sides working at all times, unlike the one in my
P-5. The pumps look identical from the outside, but the base is bored differently, with a different check valve arragement. I am also working on a SU for a 1959 Jag XK-150, which is a single coil high volume pump, but in reality an MGB would do it for the Jag also. In fact an MGB ump would handle the Rools, except that the hard fuel line spacing is too wide for the fitttings to match up properly. Makes me wonder what pump is on a P-5B?
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Brooks" <renovations.plus at hotmail.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2010 3:19:00 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
?Hmmm ...now I am getting confused..(quite easily done)...my P6B has and always had a Bendix fuel pump...to be honest I never heard tell of anything other than a bendix for the "s" in the North american market...but ?bendix supplied these pumps in light aircraft for years before Rover decided to fit them in the P6B . I am gathering that there as an SU electric pump fitted in some ...someplace as well...is this correct ?
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From kkinard at att.net Sat Jul 3 13:59:57 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 13:59:57 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net>
Makes me wonder what pump is on a P-5B?
Hi Slats,
P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
What are your San Antonio plans?
Roverly,
Kent K.
From renovations.plus at hotmail.com Sat Jul 3 15:25:23 2010
From: renovations.plus at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 18:25:23 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net>
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
<4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net>
Message-ID: <BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
"P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
"
Kent ...it sounds like you are saying that most P6B cars actually had mechanical fuel pumps ... That is something I id not know...my workshop manual (if it is to be believed) only shows a mechanicalpump used on the 3500...and all Federal P6B cars imported to north america were fitted with the electric fuel pumps...One thing I do know is hardly any 2 rovers seem to be the same so which was it...mostly electric ...or mostly mechanical for the 3500S ??
Regards
Dennis Brooks
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 13:59:57 -0500
> From: kkinard at att.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
> Makes me wonder what pump is on a P-5B?
>
> Hi Slats,
> P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>
> What are your San Antonio plans?
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
_________________________________________________________________
Look 'em in the eye: FREE Messenger video chat
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From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Sat Jul 3 16:23:43 2010
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 14:23:43 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net>
<BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikdyh5K4JjdpB4t2CPRk-vsp1NmVcyilWGvT3IQ@mail.gmail.com>
As a general rule air conditioned cars and as far as is known all
Federal 3500S cars (whether fitted with AC or not) were fitted with
the Bendix pump, and even then it seems some cars with A/C sold
outside the North American market missed out on this refinement.
I have never heard of any *Federal* 3500S with anything other than the
Bendix pump, but the manual Series II 3500S had the standard AC
mechanical pump
>One thing I do know is hardly any 2 rovers seem to be the same so which was it...mostly electric ...or mostly mechanical for the 3500S ??
>
From kkinard at att.net Sat Jul 3 18:47:49 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:47:49 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
<4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net>
<BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C2FCC25.4060307@att.net>
Dennis Brooks wrote:
> "P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>
>
Hi Dennis,
Sorry for the confusion. "Most" was too broad a term and you are
correct. As far as I know, all P6B NAS had Bendix electric pumps. All
non-NAS 3500 had mechanical pump at least until Series 2. I only have
one Series 2 V8. It is an automatic 1974 RHD export model and has an
electric pump. I don't know if that pump is original but it appears to
be. If you don't have A/C, you could probably fit a mechanical pump to
an NAS car. The eccentric that drives the mechanical pump was fitted to
electric pump models and a bolt on cover was attached to the mechanical
pump mounting flange. The eccentric continued to be fitted to all V8's
until the 1995 P38 Range Rovers did away with the distributor drive gear
and the front of the camshaft was changed, even though most no longer
required the blanking plate. SD1's use an electric in-tank pump unless
they are fitted with fuel injection in which case they use a high
pressure pump located underneath and forward of the rear axle. Certain
models (Disco, 90 and 110?) that continued to use a distributor and the
old style camshaft always had the eccentric. Engines that used the
"interim" front cover may or may not have the distributor drive gear and
eccentric depending on whether a distributor was used or not. Some
interim covers have a hole for the distributor and some are blanked off.
I should be more precise. I'm getting old and careless.
Roverepeatedly,
Kent K.
From kkinard at att.net Sat Jul 3 18:49:29 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:49:29 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikdyh5K4JjdpB4t2CPRk-vsp1NmVcyilWGvT3IQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net> <BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
<AANLkTikdyh5K4JjdpB4t2CPRk-vsp1NmVcyilWGvT3IQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C2FCC89.3000902@att.net>
Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton wrote:
> but the manual Series II 3500S had the standard AC
> mechanical pump
>
>
Ah, the mystery deepens!
Kent K.
From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Jul 3 20:43:44 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 01:43:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <4C2FCC25.4060307@att.net>
Message-ID: <1287558182.464931278207824944.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Kent,
You wouldn't happen to know the pressure and volume of the Bendix pumps used, would you? I am interested from a?desire for knowledge curiosity. Still have difficulty believing that they would venture away from a well proven SU product, but that was B/L.
I sent a reply to the previous question regarding our upcoming visit to San Antonio of list, although, maybe we could have a Southern Rover gathering!
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2010 4:47:49 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
Dennis Brooks wrote:
> ? "P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>
> ? ?
Hi Dennis,
Sorry for the confusion. "Most" was too broad a term and you are
correct. As far as I know, all P6B NAS had Bendix electric pumps. All
non-NAS 3500 had mechanical pump at least until Series 2. I only have
one Series 2 V8. It is an automatic 1974 RHD export model and has an
electric pump. I don't know if that pump is original but it appears to
be. If you don't have A/C, you could probably fit a mechanical pump to
an NAS car. The eccentric that drives the mechanical pump was fitted to
electric pump models and a bolt on cover was attached to the mechanical
pump mounting flange. The eccentric continued to be fitted to all V8's
until the 1995 P38 Range Rovers did away with the distributor drive gear
and the front of the camshaft was changed, even though most no longer
required the blanking plate. SD1's use an electric in-tank pump unless
they are fitted with fuel injection in which case they use a high
pressure pump located underneath and forward of the rear axle. Certain
models (Disco, 90 and 110?) that continued to use a distributor and the
old style camshaft always had the eccentric. Engines that used the
"interim" front cover may or may not have the distributor drive gear and
eccentric depending on whether a distributor was used or not. Some
interim covers have a hole for the distributor and some are blanked off.
I should be more precise. I'm getting old and careless.
Roverepeatedly,
Kent K.
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sat Jul 3 22:59:59 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 20:59:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
In-Reply-To: <4C2FCC25.4060307@att.net>
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>,
<4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net>
<BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl>
<4C2FCC25.4060307@att.net>
Message-ID: <289526.23146.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
WHAT? I won't hear of it!
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
<SNIP>
I should be more precise. I'm getting old and careless.
Roverepeatedly,
Kent K.
</SNIP>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Sun Jul 4 01:10:29 2010
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 16:10:29 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
Message-ID: <4C3025D5.3080203@bigpond.com>
Greetings,
I have just finished installing new rear springs and shock absorbers
which have greatly improved the ride and position of the rear end.
Installation was OK but doing it as a one man job I found it very
awkward. You have to be some sort of contortionist or grow an extra arm
to hold the spring in place, make sure the spring sits in the bottom
link (and not slide down due to the angle of the link) and jack up the
bottom link to fit into the hub assembly. Anyway finally done with a
little help from my son. However, on the test run the brakes seized
solid and the car would not move. Unfortunately I was in the middle of
the road at the time but fortunately I was on a country road with little
traffic. With help from a guy across the road he pulled me onto the
grass verge with his Disco and a chain. Although I thought only the rear
brakes had seized I was told none of the wheels were moving (no wonder
it was so hard to move!). I believe my car has only a single line system
(1976 3500, P6B) so I undid a bleed screw on one front wheel which
released the pressure so I could crawl home although putting pressure on
the foot pedal would recreate the situation. With my limited knowledge
it seemed to me that the problem is most likely with the master
cylinder. Can anyone agree or disagree with that? If it is, can the
master cylinder be rebuilt, is there a rebuild kit available (Girling?)
or is there a replacement unit available. I would welcome any help. Thanks,
Ray Wilkins
Rosebud Australia
1976 P6B
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sun Jul 4 01:31:04 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 16:31:04 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
In-Reply-To: <4C3025D5.3080203@bigpond.com>
References: <4C3025D5.3080203@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <025D3417112548919D6D688774CC76F5@Vista>
The master is easy, but it is more likely the booster. Not as easy, but not
that hard.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: <RoverCarClubAust at yahoogroups.com>; "The original Rovernet ..."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 4:10 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
> Greetings,
>
> I have just finished installing new rear springs and shock absorbers which
> have greatly improved the ride and position of the rear end. Installation
> was OK but doing it as a one man job I found it very awkward. You have to
> be some sort of contortionist or grow an extra arm to hold the spring in
> place, make sure the spring sits in the bottom link (and not slide down
> due to the angle of the link) and jack up the bottom link to fit into the
> hub assembly. Anyway finally done with a little help from my son. However,
> on the test run the brakes seized solid and the car would not move.
> Unfortunately I was in the middle of the road at the time but fortunately
> I was on a country road with little traffic. With help from a guy across
> the road he pulled me onto the grass verge with his Disco and a chain.
> Although I thought only the rear brakes had seized I was told none of the
> wheels were moving (no wonder it was so hard to move!). I believe my car
> has only a single line system (1976 3500, P6B) so I undid a bleed screw on
> one front wheel which released the pressure so I could crawl home although
> putting pressure on the foot pedal would recreate the situation. With my
> limited knowledge it seemed to me that the problem is most likely with the
> master cylinder. Can anyone agree or disagree with that? If it is, can the
> master cylinder be rebuilt, is there a rebuild kit available (Girling?) or
> is there a replacement unit available. I would welcome any help. Thanks,
>
> Ray Wilkins
> Rosebud Australia
> 1976 P6B
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From briseley at bigpond.net.au Sun Jul 4 03:05:40 2010
From: briseley at bigpond.net.au (Barry Riseley)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 18:05:40 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
In-Reply-To: <4C3025D5.3080203@bigpond.com>
References: <4C3025D5.3080203@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.2.20100704174538.01cc53f8@mail.bigpond.com>
Hello Ray and Group,
May Odin protect me from myself, but I am going yto "leap in" to this one
even though I know very little aboit the brakes on your car.
Observation Number 1.
I have had a very similar problem with a Morris 8 Series E - definitely no
power brakes there - real problem was that I "recoupled" the Master
Cylinder/ Footbrake mechanism back together after a rebuild without leaving
enough "free motion" in the pedal. This meant that after the footbrake was
applied and then the pedal released, the piston assembly inside the Master
Cylinder was unable to move back far enough to allow the relief drilling
back into the reservoir to be "uncovered" to let the pressure off. This
meant seized brakes all round, me very embarrassed and worst still, having
to get assistance to fdix the problem on thye side of the road.
But unless you have 'interfered" with the Master Cylinder/Pedal adjustments
I don't think that the foregoing is the most likely candidate.
Observation Number 2
The action of the Power Brake set up is basically that there is engine
vaccum on teach side of the Power Boost Diaphram (connected to Master
Cylinder actuating rod) When the brake pedal is depressed, "atmospheric
pressure" is applied via the actuating valve, which provides a force
(approx 14 lbs/sq in) on the air side of the Diaphram. This means that thye
diaphram will move under the combined effects of the vaccum on the Master
Cylinder side of the Diaphram and the Atmospheric pressure on the other
side of the diaphram. If you get an air leak in or around the actuating
valve and there is atmospheric pressure there then the brakes can lock. It
can be as simple as a soggy/cracked hose. Definitely have had just that
problem on my son's Mk2 Jaguar. If the Boost Assembly is any where near as
difficult to get to on your car as it was on the Jag, you will need all the
Norse Gods on your side.
I can't say that either of the above will apply in your dilemma, but woirth
checking out methinks.
Best regards from Tassie.
Barry R.
At 16:10 04/07/2010, Ray Wilkins wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I have just finished installing new rear springs and shock absorbers which
>have greatly improved the ride and position of the rear end. Installation
>was OK but doing it as a one man job I found it very awkward. You have to
>be some sort of contortionist or grow an extra arm to hold the spring in
>place, make sure the spring sits in the bottom link (and not slide down
>due to the angle of the link) and jack up the bottom link to fit into the
>hub assembly. Anyway finally done with a little help from my son. However,
>on the test run the brakes seized solid and the car would not move.
>Unfortunately I was in the middle of the road at the time but fortunately
>I was on a country road with little traffic. With help from a guy across
>the road he pulled me onto the grass verge with his Disco and a chain.
>Although I thought only the rear brakes had seized I was told none of the
>wheels were moving (no wonder it was so hard to move!). I believe my car
>has only a single line system (1976 3500, P6B) so I undid a bleed screw on
>one front wheel which released the pressure so I could crawl home although
>putting pressure on the foot pedal would recreate the situation. With my
>limited knowledge it seemed to me that the problem is most likely with the
>master cylinder. Can anyone agree or disagree with that? If it is, can the
>master cylinder be rebuilt, is there a rebuild kit available (Girling?) or
>is there a replacement unit available. I would welcome any help. Thanks,
>
>Ray Wilkins
>Rosebud Australia
>1976 P6B
>
>To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>sure to scroll down the whole page.
>http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From dcduk at tiscali.co.uk Sun Jul 4 04:31:35 2010
From: dcduk at tiscali.co.uk (rich jones)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:31:35 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
References: <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4C2F88AD.2050802@att.net> <BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0@phx.gbl><AANLkTikdyh5K4JjdpB4t2CPRk-vsp1NmVcyilWGvT3IQ@mail.gmail.com>
<4C2FCC89.3000902@att.net>
Message-ID: <56D95A7DE0D64F12AA6A08B460A78594@richc2upoimqhi>
Series two VIP's were fitted with Bedix pumps also.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton wrote:
>> but the manual Series II 3500S had the standard AC
>> mechanical pump
>>
>>
> Ah, the mystery deepens!
>
> Kent K.
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
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07:35:00
From aboasberg at webtv.net Sun Jul 4 07:34:08 2010
From: aboasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 12:34:08 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
Message-ID: <SNT101-DS257810A88D45DF84F6464B5B00@phx.gbl>
Where do I get one of these?
It is needed to fix the back-up lights on my 1970 Rover 3500S.
Thanks.
Albert
From sdibdin at gmail.com Sun Jul 4 08:07:19 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:07:19 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
In-Reply-To: <SNT101-DS257810A88D45DF84F6464B5B00@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT101-DS257810A88D45DF84F6464B5B00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <148B91F7-44FB-413F-8322-873FB6783A48@gmail.com>
Hey Albert
I'm not well up on the setup on 3500 switching but I would say that
the neutral switch isn't the culprit. All that normally does is stops
you from straying the while while Drive or Reverse is selected. Maybe
Kent or one of the others can confirm this?
As for parts, try Ruth at all British Cars or Ian Wilson at Rover
Classics (just google rover classics for details) and I'm sure they
would be able to help you.
Cheers,
Steven
On Jul 4, 2010, at 12:34 PM, Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
wrote:
> Where do I get one of these?
>
> It is needed to fix the back-up lights on my 1970 Rover 3500S.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Albert
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Jul 4 12:10:23 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:10:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
In-Reply-To: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <761602.8109.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Albert,
I have no idea what a neutral safety switch or if it has another name.
However, in the spirit of helping here's a "shot":
I have no "experience" with an automatic transmission. Hopefully, more
knowledgeable people will chime in:
From the 3500S workshop manual and a circuit diagram:
1. Reverse lamps, LH, RH, are connected with a "GN" [Green/Brown] wire to #22 -
a "Switch, reverse light". The power for that comes from a fuse. When the
reverse switch is operated, it directs power through the reverse lamps to
ground.
2. The "Switch, inhibitor, automatic transmission" is pictured on another page.
It is positioned between "Switch, ignition and steering column lock" and "Relay,
6RA, starter motor".? Would the function of the inhibitor switch be to stop a
person from starting the car in the wrong automatic gear? Who knows? Just
guessing. This concept would support Steve's position.
Anyway........... that's my thought for the day :-)
Eric
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----
From: Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
To: The original Rovernet... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sat, July 3, 2010 6:41:40 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
The back-up lights on my Rover 3500S don't work.
I am told I need a new neutral safety switch.
Where would I find one?
Thanks.
Albert
To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From vern at inkspotco.com Sun Jul 4 12:15:18 2010
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:15:18 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
In-Reply-To: <761602.8109.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl>
<761602.8109.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3844A772-45CC-46C7-822F-B6111050CD1C@inkspotco.com>
The neutral switch only allows you to crank the engine in Park or Neutral. They are often combined with the reverse light switch, though I don't know if that is the case with the BW P6B trans.
Yours
Vern
On 2010-07-04, at 10:10 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Albert,
> I have no idea what a neutral safety switch or if it has another name.
> However, in the spirit of helping here's a "shot":
>
> I have no "experience" with an automatic transmission. Hopefully, more
> knowledgeable people will chime in:
> From the 3500S workshop manual and a circuit diagram:
>
> 1. Reverse lamps, LH, RH, are connected with a "GN" [Green/Brown] wire to #22 -
> a "Switch, reverse light". The power for that comes from a fuse. When the
> reverse switch is operated, it directs power through the reverse lamps to
> ground.
>
> 2. The "Switch, inhibitor, automatic transmission" is pictured on another page.
> It is positioned between "Switch, ignition and steering column lock" and "Relay,
> 6RA, starter motor". Would the function of the inhibitor switch be to stop a
> person from starting the car in the wrong automatic gear? Who knows? Just
> guessing. This concept would support Steve's position.
>
> Anyway........... that's my thought for the day :-)
>
> Eric
>
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
> To: The original Rovernet... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Sat, July 3, 2010 6:41:40 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
>
> The back-up lights on my Rover 3500S don't work.
>
> I am told I need a new neutral safety switch.
>
> Where would I find one?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Albert
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
> scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
From michael.maher at virgin.net Sun Jul 4 13:00:49 2010
From: michael.maher at virgin.net (Mike Maher)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 19:00:49 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
References: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl><761602.8109.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<3844A772-45CC-46C7-822F-B6111050CD1C@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <005501cb1ba2$d6baa840$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
I agree witrh Eric, in the UK what you call the neutral safety switch is
known as "the inhibitor switch".
Hope this helps
regards
Mike Maher
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vern Klukas" <vern at inkspotco.com>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
> The neutral switch only allows you to crank the engine in Park or Neutral.
> They are often combined with the reverse light switch, though I don't know
> if that is the case with the BW P6B trans.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
>
> On 2010-07-04, at 10:10 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
>
>> Albert,
>> I have no idea what a neutral safety switch or if it has another name.
>> However, in the spirit of helping here's a "shot":
>>
>> I have no "experience" with an automatic transmission. Hopefully, more
>> knowledgeable people will chime in:
>> From the 3500S workshop manual and a circuit diagram:
>>
>> 1. Reverse lamps, LH, RH, are connected with a "GN" [Green/Brown] wire to
>> #22 -
>> a "Switch, reverse light". The power for that comes from a fuse. When the
>> reverse switch is operated, it directs power through the reverse lamps to
>> ground.
>>
>> 2. The "Switch, inhibitor, automatic transmission" is pictured on another
>> page.
>> It is positioned between "Switch, ignition and steering column lock" and
>> "Relay,
>> 6RA, starter motor". Would the function of the inhibitor switch be to
>> stop a
>> person from starting the car in the wrong automatic gear? Who knows? Just
>> guessing. This concept would support Steve's position.
>>
>> Anyway........... that's my thought for the day :-)
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
>> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
>> To: The original Rovernet... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Sat, July 3, 2010 6:41:40 AM
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
>>
>> The back-up lights on my Rover 3500S don't work.
>>
>> I am told I need a new neutral safety switch.
>>
>> Where would I find one?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Albert
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to
>> scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From lafbery at telus.net Sun Jul 4 13:06:49 2010
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 11:06:49 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
In-Reply-To: <3844A772-45CC-46C7-822F-B6111050CD1C@inkspotco.com>
References: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl><761602.8109.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<3844A772-45CC-46C7-822F-B6111050CD1C@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <F2C28550EF8049A5B888D2F5709E8428@BarryPC>
On the 3500s the Neutral and back up lights are in combined in the one
switch.
And the same with auto P6s
Barry
P2
P3
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
> The neutral switch only allows you to crank the engine in Park or Neutral.
> They are often combined with the reverse light switch, though I don't know
> if that is the case with the BW P6B trans.
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
>
> On 2010-07-04, at 10:10 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
>
>> Albert,
>> I have no idea what a neutral safety switch or if it has another name.
>> However, in the spirit of helping here's a "shot":
>>
>> I have no "experience" with an automatic transmission. Hopefully, more
>> knowledgeable people will chime in:
>> From the 3500S workshop manual and a circuit diagram:
>>
>> 1. Reverse lamps, LH, RH, are connected with a "GN" [Green/Brown] wire to
>> #22 -
>> a "Switch, reverse light". The power for that comes from a fuse. When the
>> reverse switch is operated, it directs power through the reverse lamps to
>> ground.
>>
>> 2. The "Switch, inhibitor, automatic transmission" is pictured on another
>> page.
>> It is positioned between "Switch, ignition and steering column lock" and
>> "Relay,
>> 6RA, starter motor". Would the function of the inhibitor switch be to
>> stop a
>> person from starting the car in the wrong automatic gear? Who knows? Just
>> guessing. This concept would support Steve's position.
>>
>> Anyway........... that's my thought for the day :-)
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
>> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
>> To: The original Rovernet... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Sat, July 3, 2010 6:41:40 AM
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
>>
>> The back-up lights on my Rover 3500S don't work.
>>
>> I am told I need a new neutral safety switch.
>>
>> Where would I find one?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Albert
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to
>> scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> Inkspot Type & Design 250 864 5619 in at inkspotco.com
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From kkinard at att.net Sun Jul 4 14:26:27 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 14:26:27 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch and other parts
In-Reply-To: <F2C28550EF8049A5B888D2F5709E8428@BarryPC>
References: <SNT101-DS1472641A599E3A5DD88FB4B5CF0@phx.gbl><761602.8109.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <3844A772-45CC-46C7-822F-B6111050CD1C@inkspotco.com>
<F2C28550EF8049A5B888D2F5709E8428@BarryPC>
Message-ID: <4C30E063.40507@att.net>
Barry & Shirley Lafbery wrote:
> On the 3500s the Neutral and back up lights are in combined in the one
> switch.
> And the same with auto P6s
> Barry
> P2
> P3
And there you have it. The switches are different between BW35 and
BW65/66. These switches may be getting hard to find. Neither type is
very sturdy and they are exposed to weather and leaking lubricants.
Lokar makes a type of universal adjustable neutral selector/backup lamp
switch that may be adaptable but it will serve only one function, not both.
I have some good used BW35 switches, but I have promised so many things
to so many people, I'm going to quit promising. I'll keep a list of
wants and if the item turns up I'll post it to the list.
Right now I'm looking for those little plastic triangles that fit
between the corners of the console and the A/C evaporator on Delanair
equipped P6's. I have several new ones but can only find one. I have
three NOS Delanair emblems still in factory wrappers. Two are promised
(Keith and Nachman) but I have one left and one excellent used one.
James Dean had a bunch of A/C parts did he ever get rid of them?
If your TC carburetor heat shield is missing or looks shabby, I have new
ones.
I have most lenses for P6/P6B except the red and orange side marker lamps.
More as I figure out what is there.
Roveroverwhelmedly,
Kent K.
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sun Jul 4 19:58:06 2010
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 00:58:06 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 101, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1278262821.20972.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.0.1278262821.20972.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BAY119-W19D85CA93B2A190F6BC162DEB10@phx.gbl>
Albert i think the problem lies in your inhibitor switch.....possibly the wire has popped off or more likely the prong broke holding the wire.......you can get new ones but make sure you follow the manual setting it up....you need a 9 volt battery and and test light in series....double check your light bulbs and wiring before going through the rest
Bill Robertson
From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 101, Issue 1
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 12:00:21 -0500
Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
rovernet at rovernet.ca
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com
To: RoverCarClubAust at yahoogroups.com; rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 16:10:29 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
Greetings,
I have just finished installing new rear springs and shock absorbers
which have greatly improved the ride and position of the rear end.
Installation was OK but doing it as a one man job I found it very
awkward. You have to be some sort of contortionist or grow an extra arm
to hold the spring in place, make sure the spring sits in the bottom
link (and not slide down due to the angle of the link) and jack up the
bottom link to fit into the hub assembly. Anyway finally done with a
little help from my son. However, on the test run the brakes seized
solid and the car would not move. Unfortunately I was in the middle of
the road at the time but fortunately I was on a country road with little
traffic. With help from a guy across the road he pulled me onto the
grass verge with his Disco and a chain. Although I thought only the rear
brakes had seized I was told none of the wheels were moving (no wonder
it was so hard to move!). I believe my car has only a single line system
(1976 3500, P6B) so I undid a bleed screw on one front wheel which
released the pressure so I could crawl home although putting pressure on
the foot pedal would recreate the situation. With my limited knowledge
it seemed to me that the problem is most likely with the master
cylinder. Can anyone agree or disagree with that? If it is, can the
master cylinder be rebuilt, is there a rebuild kit available (Girling?)
or is there a replacement unit available. I would welcome any help. Thanks,
Ray Wilkins
Rosebud Australia
1976 P6B
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 16:31:04 +1000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
The master is easy, but it is more likely the booster. Not as easy, but not
that hard.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: <RoverCarClubAust at yahoogroups.com>; "The original Rovernet ..."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 4:10 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
> Greetings,
>
> I have just finished installing new rear springs and shock absorbers which
> have greatly improved the ride and position of the rear end. Installation
> was OK but doing it as a one man job I found it very awkward. You have to
> be some sort of contortionist or grow an extra arm to hold the spring in
> place, make sure the spring sits in the bottom link (and not slide down
> due to the angle of the link) and jack up the bottom link to fit into the
> hub assembly. Anyway finally done with a little help from my son. However,
> on the test run the brakes seized solid and the car would not move.
> Unfortunately I was in the middle of the road at the time but fortunately
> I was on a country road with little traffic. With help from a guy across
> the road he pulled me onto the grass verge with his Disco and a chain.
> Although I thought only the rear brakes had seized I was told none of the
> wheels were moving (no wonder it was so hard to move!). I believe my car
> has only a single line system (1976 3500, P6B) so I undid a bleed screw on
> one front wheel which released the pressure so I could crawl home although
> putting pressure on the foot pedal would recreate the situation. With my
> limited knowledge it seemed to me that the problem is most likely with the
> master cylinder. Can anyone agree or disagree with that? If it is, can the
> master cylinder be rebuilt, is there a rebuild kit available (Girling?) or
> is there a replacement unit available. I would welcome any help. Thanks,
>
> Ray Wilkins
> Rosebud Australia
> 1976 P6B
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: briseley at bigpond.net.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca; RoverCarClubAust at yahoogroups.com; rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 18:05:40 +1000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover Woes
Hello Ray and Group,
May Odin protect me from myself, but I am going yto "leap in" to this one
even though I know very little aboit the brakes on your car.
Observation Number 1.
I have had a very similar problem with a Morris 8 Series E - definitely no
power brakes there - real problem was that I "recoupled" the Master
Cylinder/ Footbrake mechanism back together after a rebuild without leaving
enough "free motion" in the pedal. This meant that after the footbrake was
applied and then the pedal released, the piston assembly inside the Master
Cylinder was unable to move back far enough to allow the relief drilling
back into the reservoir to be "uncovered" to let the pressure off. This
meant seized brakes all round, me very embarrassed and worst still, having
to get assistance to fdix the problem on thye side of the road.
But unless you have 'interfered" with the Master Cylinder/Pedal adjustments
I don't think that the foregoing is the most likely candidate.
Observation Number 2
The action of the Power Brake set up is basically that there is engine
vaccum on teach side of the Power Boost Diaphram (connected to Master
Cylinder actuating rod) When the brake pedal is depressed, "atmospheric
pressure" is applied via the actuating valve, which provides a force
(approx 14 lbs/sq in) on the air side of the Diaphram. This means that thye
diaphram will move under the combined effects of the vaccum on the Master
Cylinder side of the Diaphram and the Atmospheric pressure on the other
side of the diaphram. If you get an air leak in or around the actuating
valve and there is atmospheric pressure there then the brakes can lock. It
can be as simple as a soggy/cracked hose. Definitely have had just that
problem on my son's Mk2 Jaguar. If the Boost Assembly is any where near as
difficult to get to on your car as it was on the Jag, you will need all the
Norse Gods on your side.
I can't say that either of the above will apply in your dilemma, but woirth
checking out methinks.
Best regards from Tassie.
Barry R.
At 16:10 04/07/2010, Ray Wilkins wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I have just finished installing new rear springs and shock absorbers which
>have greatly improved the ride and position of the rear end. Installation
>was OK but doing it as a one man job I found it very awkward. You have to
>be some sort of contortionist or grow an extra arm to hold the spring in
>place, make sure the spring sits in the bottom link (and not slide down
>due to the angle of the link) and jack up the bottom link to fit into the
>hub assembly. Anyway finally done with a little help from my son. However,
>on the test run the brakes seized solid and the car would not move.
>Unfortunately I was in the middle of the road at the time but fortunately
>I was on a country road with little traffic. With help from a guy across
>the road he pulled me onto the grass verge with his Disco and a chain.
>Although I thought only the rear brakes had seized I was told none of the
>wheels were moving (no wonder it was so hard to move!). I believe my car
>has only a single line system (1976 3500, P6B) so I undid a bleed screw on
>one front wheel which released the pressure so I could crawl home although
>putting pressure on the foot pedal would recreate the situation. With my
>limited knowledge it seemed to me that the problem is most likely with the
>master cylinder. Can anyone agree or disagree with that? If it is, can the
>master cylinder be rebuilt, is there a rebuild kit available (Girling?) or
>is there a replacement unit available. I would welcome any help. Thanks,
>
>Ray Wilkins
>Rosebud Australia
>1976 P6B
>
>To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>sure to scroll down the whole page.
>http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: dcduk at tiscali.co.uk
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:31:35 +0100
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
Series two VIP's were fitted with Bedix pumps also.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton wrote:
>> but the manual Series II 3500S had the standard AC
>> mechanical pump
>>
>>
> Ah, the mystery deepens!
>
> Kent K.
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2979 - Release Date: 07/03/10
07:35:00
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: aboasberg at webtv.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 12:34:08 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
Where do I get one of these?
It is needed to fix the back-up lights on my 1970 Rover 3500S.
Thanks.
Albert
--Forwarded Message Attachment--
From: sdibdin at gmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:07:19 -0400
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
Hey Albert
I'm not well up on the setup on 3500 switching but I would say that
the neutral switch isn't the culprit. All that normally does is stops
you from straying the while while Drive or Reverse is selected. Maybe
Kent or one of the others can confirm this?
As for parts, try Ruth at all British Cars or Ian Wilson at Rover
Classics (just google rover classics for details) and I'm sure they
would be able to help you.
Cheers,
Steven
On Jul 4, 2010, at 12:34 PM, Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
wrote:
> Where do I get one of these?
>
> It is needed to fix the back-up lights on my 1970 Rover 3500S.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Albert
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
_________________________________________________________________
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From aboasberg at webtv.net Mon Jul 5 08:32:15 2010
From: aboasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 13:32:15 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
Message-ID: <SNT101-DS194815FCAC4D89AE14A6CBB5B10@phx.gbl>
Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry.
I really appreciate your authoritative and erudite tips and suggestions.
Albert
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Mon Jul 5 11:08:17 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 09:08:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
Message-ID: <69248.32519.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi,
A Rover 2000 TC has been relisted for sale on our website. You can check out the
web album and details through the following link.
Eric
http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
From roverman2 at verizon.net Mon Jul 5 15:22:57 2010
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 16:22:57 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 100, Issue 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.222.1278216009.16327.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.222.1278216009.16327.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <431DC951-503F-4975-812E-DD3E83DFE800@verizon.net>
Hi Group,
The beauty of the old Bendix pumps are their reliability! I still
have one from a 1970 3500S that works beautifully. Now the SU is a
whole different story. Even the dual point versions are subject to
quitting because the points get fouled up. Some of the fancier
British cars of the period even used double pumps so that at least
one would work!
Dermot Harvey
On Jul 4, 2010, at 12:00 AM, rovernet-request at rovernet.ca wrote:
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
> rovernet at rovernet.ca
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
>
>
> Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the
> topic to which you are referring.
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: My rover problems (slatskars at comcast.net)
> 2. Re: My rover problems (slatskars at comcast.net)
> 3. Re: My rover problems (Kent Kinard)
> 4. Re: My rover problems (Dennis Brooks)
> 5. Re: My rover problems (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
> 6. Re: My rover problems (Kent Kinard)
> 7. Re: My rover problems (Kent Kinard)
> 8. Re: My rover problems (slatskars at comcast.net)
> 9. Re: My rover problems (Eric Russell)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 18:36:45 +0000 (UTC)
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID:
>
> <644280878.402291278182205992.JavaMail.root at sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail
> .comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Glen,
>
>
>
> That makes one in a row!
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Wilson" <rovercar at comcast.net>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2010 8:10:55 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
> On 07/03/2010 01:32 AM, slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>> Being that I am primarily an MG guy, I will state that I
>> absolutely hate Facet pumps. Yes, they do work, but they run
>> continuously and are much noisier than SU pumps. The noice drives
>> me batty. I know some folks that have installed them as a back-up
>> pump, between the fuel tank and the SU, with a separate switch. My
>> P-5 Rover has a double ended SU with one end being the main and
>> the other the reserve. This pump is mounted high on the bulkhead
>> of the trunk. No valves just a two position switch on the dash.
>> This pump puts out about 3.8 PSI and has a capacity of 15 GPH, but
>> it does stop clicking when the fuel pressure is met. I love SU's
>> as they run fast for a few seconds to fill the carb/s and then
>> only an occasional tick as required to maintain the float level.
>>
>>
>>
>> Slats
>> ? ?
>
> Holy Mackerel! ?I completely agree with Slats!
>
> Glen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton"<smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
>> To: "The original Rovernet ..."<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Friday, July 2, 2010 9:01:56 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>>
>> Going back to the original question, ?P6Bs that had electric pumps
>> were usually ?fitted with a Bendix unit rather than SU. The modern
>> Facet pump is a bolt in replacement
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ? ?
>>> I am currently very much into SU fuel pumps these days. My "new"
>>> passion and a small part time business, rebuilding and converting
>>> them to
>>> solid state. I have a question regarding the P-6 and P-6B series
>>> of Rovers.
>>> What kind of fuel pumps are installed on the P-6 and also the P-B? I
>>> ? ? ?
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this
>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this
>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> ? ?
>
>
> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 18:46:07 +0000 (UTC)
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID:
>
> <169441265.404331278182767404.JavaMail.root at sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail
> .comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Dennis,
>
>
>
> Mine is a P-5, 3 Liter and the SU was original equipment. Many/most
> British cars used SU fuel pumps from back in the 30's. I have no
> idea why they went toa Bendix on P-6's unless it was a pressure
> thing. A single sided SU will put out 3.8 PSI and 15 GPH. A double
> sided will produce the same 3.8 PSI and 30 GPH. I am currently
> working on a pump for a 1960 Rolls which is double sided, with both
> sides working at all times, unlike the one in my
>
> P-5. The pumps look identical from the outside, but the base is
> bored differently, with a different check valve arragement. I am
> also working on a SU for a 1959 Jag XK-150, which is a single coil
> high volume pump, but in reality an MGB would do it for the Jag
> also. In fact an MGB ump would handle the Rools, except that the
> hard fuel line spacing is too wide for the fitttings to match up
> properly. Makes me wonder what pump is on a P-5B?
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dennis Brooks" <renovations.plus at hotmail.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2010 3:19:00 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
>
>
> ?Hmmm ...now I am getting confused..(quite easily done)...my P6B
> has and always had a Bendix fuel pump...to be honest I never heard
> tell of anything other than a bendix for the "s" in the North
> american market...but ?bendix supplied these pumps in light
> aircraft for years before Rover decided to fit them in the P6B . I
> am gathering that there as an SU electric pump fitted in
> some ...someplace as well...is this correct ?
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 13:59:57 -0500
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID: <4C2F88AD.2050802 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Makes me wonder what pump is on a P-5B?
>
> Hi Slats,
> P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>
> What are your San Antonio plans?
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 18:25:23 -0200
> From: Dennis Brooks <renovations.plus at hotmail.com>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID: <BAY145-w39610A5572E25367050FD995CF0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
>
> "P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>
>
> "
>
>
>
> Kent ...it sounds like you are saying that most P6B cars actually
> had mechanical fuel pumps ... That is something I id not know...my
> workshop manual (if it is to be believed) only shows a
> mechanicalpump used on the 3500...and all Federal P6B cars imported
> to north america were fitted with the electric fuel pumps...One
> thing I do know is hardly any 2 rovers seem to be the same so which
> was it...mostly electric ...or mostly mechanical for the 3500S ??
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
> Dennis Brooks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 13:59:57 -0500
>> From: kkinard at att.net
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>>
>> Makes me wonder what pump is on a P-5B?
>>
>> Hi Slats,
>> P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>>
>> What are your San Antonio plans?
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> To unsubscribe to the list or change your settings go to this
>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Look 'em in the eye: FREE Messenger video chat
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734386
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 14:23:43 -0700
> From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID:
> <AANLkTikdyh5K4JjdpB4t2CPRk-vsp1NmVcyilWGvT3IQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> As a general rule air conditioned cars and as far as is known all
> Federal 3500S cars (whether fitted with AC or not) were fitted with
> the Bendix pump, and even then it seems some cars with A/C sold
> outside the North American market missed out on this refinement.
>
> I have never heard of any *Federal* 3500S with anything other than the
> Bendix pump, but the manual Series II 3500S had the standard AC
> mechanical pump
>
>
>> One thing I do know is hardly any 2 rovers seem to be the same so
>> which was it...mostly electric ...or mostly mechanical for the
>> 3500S ??
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:47:49 -0500
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID: <4C2FCC25.4060307 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Dennis Brooks wrote:
>> "P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>>
>>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Sorry for the confusion. "Most" was too broad a term and you are
> correct. As far as I know, all P6B NAS had Bendix electric pumps. All
> non-NAS 3500 had mechanical pump at least until Series 2. I only have
> one Series 2 V8. It is an automatic 1974 RHD export model and has an
> electric pump. I don't know if that pump is original but it appears to
> be. If you don't have A/C, you could probably fit a mechanical pump to
> an NAS car. The eccentric that drives the mechanical pump was
> fitted to
> electric pump models and a bolt on cover was attached to the
> mechanical
> pump mounting flange. The eccentric continued to be fitted to all V8's
> until the 1995 P38 Range Rovers did away with the distributor drive
> gear
> and the front of the camshaft was changed, even though most no longer
> required the blanking plate. SD1's use an electric in-tank pump unless
> they are fitted with fuel injection in which case they use a high
> pressure pump located underneath and forward of the rear axle. Certain
> models (Disco, 90 and 110?) that continued to use a distributor and
> the
> old style camshaft always had the eccentric. Engines that used the
> "interim" front cover may or may not have the distributor drive
> gear and
> eccentric depending on whether a distributor was used or not. Some
> interim covers have a hole for the distributor and some are blanked
> off.
>
> I should be more precise. I'm getting old and careless.
>
> Roverepeatedly,
> Kent K.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:49:29 -0500
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID: <4C2FCC89.3000902 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton wrote:
>> but the manual Series II 3500S had the standard AC
>> mechanical pump
>>
>>
> Ah, the mystery deepens!
>
> Kent K.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 01:43:44 +0000 (UTC)
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID:
>
> <1287558182.464931278207824944.JavaMail.root at sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mai
> l.comcast.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Kent,
>
>
>
> You wouldn't happen to know the pressure and volume of the Bendix
> pumps used, would you? I am interested from a?desire for knowledge
> curiosity. Still have difficulty believing that they would venture
> away from a well proven SU product, but that was B/L.
>
>
>
> I sent a reply to the previous question regarding our upcoming
> visit to San Antonio of list, although, maybe we could have a
> Southern Rover gathering!
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kent Kinard" <kkinard at att.net>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, July 3, 2010 4:47:49 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
>
> Dennis Brooks wrote:
>> ? "P5B used mechanical pump like most P6B.
>>
>> ? ?
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Sorry for the confusion. "Most" was too broad a term and you are
> correct. As far as I know, all P6B NAS had Bendix electric pumps. All
> non-NAS 3500 had mechanical pump at least until Series 2. I only have
> one Series 2 V8. It is an automatic 1974 RHD export model and has an
> electric pump. I don't know if that pump is original but it appears to
> be. If you don't have A/C, you could probably fit a mechanical pump to
> an NAS car. The eccentric that drives the mechanical pump was
> fitted to
> electric pump models and a bolt on cover was attached to the
> mechanical
> pump mounting flange. The eccentric continued to be fitted to all V8's
> until the 1995 P38 Range Rovers did away with the distributor drive
> gear
> and the front of the camshaft was changed, even though most no longer
> required the blanking plate. SD1's use an electric in-tank pump unless
> they are fitted with fuel injection in which case they use a high
> pressure pump located underneath and forward of the rear axle. Certain
> models (Disco, 90 and 110?) that continued to use a distributor and
> the
> old style camshaft always had the eccentric. Engines that used the
> "interim" front cover may or may not have the distributor drive
> gear and
> eccentric depending on whether a distributor was used or not. Some
> interim covers have a hole for the distributor and some are blanked
> off.
>
> I should be more precise. I'm getting old and careless.
>
> Roverepeatedly,
> Kent K.
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/
> attachments/20100704/0a51b181/attachment.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 20:59:59 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] My rover problems
> Message-ID: <289526.23146.qm at web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> WHAT? I won't hear of it!
> Eric
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> <SNIP>
> I should be more precise. I'm getting old and careless.
> Roverepeatedly,
> Kent K.
> </SNIP>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to
> scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Want to post photos?
> Go here: http://photobucket.com/
>
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 100, Issue 2
> ****************************************
From ianalice at shaw.ca Mon Jul 5 15:44:03 2010
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 13:44:03 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
In-Reply-To: <69248.32519.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <69248.32519.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F16FD2CE0A49482585B62EE89B9B3042@IandAlicePC>
thank you once again, Eric, for what you do for all of us with Rover Cars.
Ian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:08 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
Hi,
A Rover 2000 TC has been relisted for sale on our website. You can check out
the
web album and details through the following link.
Eric
http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2982 - Release Date: 07/04/10
11:35:00
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Mon Jul 5 19:14:07 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 17:14:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
In-Reply-To: <F16FD2CE0A49482585B62EE89B9B3042@IandAlicePC>
References: <69248.32519.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<F16FD2CE0A49482585B62EE89B9B3042@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <648756.6402.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks, Ian.
I often screw up but I mean well? :-(
Eric
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----
From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
To: The original Rovernet ... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 1:44:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
thank you once again, Eric, for what you do for all of us with Rover Cars. Ian
----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:08 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
Hi,
A Rover 2000 TC has been relisted for sale on our website. You can check out the
web album and details through the following link.
Eric
http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2982 - Release Date: 07/04/10
11:35:00
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From hdmanwell at alumni.bates.edu Mon Jul 5 19:20:30 2010
From: hdmanwell at alumni.bates.edu (Henry Manwell)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 20:20:30 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
In-Reply-To: <648756.6402.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <69248.32519.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<F16FD2CE0A49482585B62EE89B9B3042@IandAlicePC>
<648756.6402.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4DB44424-55C1-4158-8B7D-8429C857074D@alumni.bates.edu>
I'd like to say thanks for all the help you give to Rover owners around the world.
And thanks for making the long trip again to RovAmerica 10.
Hank
On Jul 5, 2010, at 8:14 PM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Thanks, Ian.
> I often screw up but I mean well :-(
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
> To: The original Rovernet ... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 1:44:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> thank you once again, Eric, for what you do for all of us with Rover Cars. Ian
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:08 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover for sale in Canada
>
>
> Hi,
> A Rover 2000 TC has been relisted for sale on our website. You can check out the
> web album and details through the following link.
>
> Eric
>
>
> http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
> scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2982 - Release Date: 07/04/10
> 11:35:00
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
> scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Mon Jul 5 19:50:23 2010
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 20:50:23 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1278262821.20972.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1278262821.20972.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W634BB18DB49CF7FCA2EBC28EB20@phx.gbl>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 12:34:08 GMT
> From: Albert Boasberg <aboasberg at webtv.net>
> To: The original Rovernet... <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Neutral Safety Switch
> Message-ID: <SNT101-DS257810A88D45DF84F6464B5B00 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Where do I get one of these?
>
> It is needed to fix the back-up lights on my 1970 Rover 3500S.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Albert
>
>\
Here are a couple on ebay:
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=BW35+switch&_sacat=See-All-Categories
I would try to test the wires going back to the brake lights and see if you can get them to come on by closing the circuit. If you find a green and green brown wire on the switch, then jump them over and see if your brake lights come on. I have a Rover 2000 manual, and it says that the color for the reverse light switching is green and green brown. I would be careful doing this, if you close over the wrong wires you could get into the situation where you can crank the car over with drive or reverse engaged, if you get the wrong wires. So maybe chock your wheels as and extra precaution and apply the parking brake. If you have access to a Rover 3500 shop manual then check the wire diagram in that to make sure that the wire colors are in fact the same on the 3500.
If your lights check out okay, then make sure that the connectors and terminals are clean on the switch. The switch screws into the left hand side of the transmission.
I would check the other people as suggested by others on the list as these ebay prices seem a little pricey.
James.
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Mon Jul 5 23:45:46 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 21:45:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Thanks
Message-ID: <546945.6080.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hank,
Thanks for your kind words.
After our first trip, I now look forward to meeting old friends, like yourself,
Steve (X2), Dirk, Curtis, Kent, Glen, Bill, Nachman, Real, Joe, Lloyd, Andre,
James, ........ and new friends ...... like Keith Oxley ... and many others.
?
Eric
?
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
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From slatskars at comcast.net Tue Jul 6 00:17:16 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 05:17:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 100, Issue 2
In-Reply-To: <963020462.917441278389812113.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1074696830.928411278393436491.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
True Dermot,
Except that the double pumps were used for volume, when both both ends pumped at the same time. Others, like the clever one used in my P-5, have each end operate separately, one being the reserve fuel supply as well as a reserve pump. Now, if one end did fail the other would still get you home.?They are also easy to repair, by installing a new set of points. The pumps in their original configuration had points only, but later they added first a condenser and later a diode. Either of these extended the life of the points. Currently, new solid state units are available which completely eliminate the points, or you can purchase a kit from Burlen Fuel Systems and modify your own. These use a Hall Effect (magnetic) transistor. Or, either Dave DuBois or I can re-build and modify an SU using an optical triggered transistor circuit. I rebuilt the unit in my 1954 MGTF in 1994, replacing the points and diaphragm. It was still pumping, but becoming intermittent. The diaphragm was really very worn, but still pumping. I will have to check out?a Bendix unit to see what type it is and how much current they draw and what pressure they put out.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dermot Harvey" <roverman2 at verizon.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, July 5, 2010 1:22:57 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 100, Issue 2
Hi Group,
The beauty of the old Bendix pumps are their reliability! I still ?
have one from a 1970 3500S that works beautifully. Now the SU is a ?
whole different story. Even the dual point versions are subject to ?
quitting because the points get fouled up. Some of the fancier ?
British cars of the period even used double pumps so that at least ?
one would work!
Dermot Harvey
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Jul 6 10:15:58 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 08:15:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Thanks
Message-ID: <695255.48450.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
(Resent due to email transmission issues.)
Thanks, Hank.
We really enjoyed meeting old friends and gaining new ones.
Eric
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
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From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Tue Jul 6 14:38:26 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 12:38:26 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] 1967 P5 MkIII Motor
Message-ID: <7A6A2912-8A88-48BD-83D6-F0C8FF9D8417@shaw.ca>
This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive Coupe.
I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder walls are
scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the motor. We
are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and would any thoughts
or suggestions that might help in this project.
Information On Rover Motor?s
Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
Car & Chassis number 80500262A
4 speed plus Overdrive
Engine number 79500703A
The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any alternatives
to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with Power Steering and
the shift mechanism is on the floor.
WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
Car & Chassis number 778006960
Automatic Transmission
Engine number 77510384C
We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
plate configuration.
We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
further information you require?
Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
making this work.
Thanks Harold Stubbs
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Jul 6 17:09:24 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 15:09:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
Message-ID: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Test
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
From peter_m at amnet.net.au Tue Jul 6 17:30:57 2010
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 06:30:57 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test: Canberra Australia
Message-ID: <44105.1278455457@amnet.net.au>
Hi Eric,
Over in Canberra at present, loud and clear.
Cheers
Peter Mitchell
From galmpton at shaw.ca Tue Jul 6 17:36:08 2010
From: galmpton at shaw.ca (galmpton)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 15:36:08 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
References: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6752FC64AA7241EBACB94BFE4D909A20@user789ad50f2d>
5x5 Victoria BC. Canada
Al Gunnarson
SD1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:09 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
> Test
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Jul 6 17:41:02 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 15:41:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test: Canberra Australia
In-Reply-To: <44105.1278455457@amnet.net.au>
References: <44105.1278455457@amnet.net.au>
Message-ID: <892974.92120.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hey,........ how's it goin'?
Canberra, you say. You must be coming up to winter.
Now,...... do you prefer the hot DRY heat of Canberra or the hot but chance of
breeze,..... Perth..?
Oh,..... the test..... I wasn't getting my own email to the list. It took me a
while to figure out that I had accidently clicked "Rich Text" instead of Plain
text.
Say "Hi" to Jan for us...
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----
From: Peter Mitchell <peter_m at amnet.net.au>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 3:30:57 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test: Canberra Australia
Hi Eric,
Over in Canberra at present, loud and clear.
Cheers
Peter Mitchell
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From rovernetca at yahoo.ca Tue Jul 6 18:07:59 2010
From: rovernetca at yahoo.ca (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:07:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Message-ID: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Test another address
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From WMurray at ARTC.com.au Tue Jul 6 18:21:33 2010
From: WMurray at ARTC.com.au (Wayne Murray)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:21:33 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <926627E2B729BE4DABA6F03781393A3633A23D@MAILBMT01.artc.int>
All clear in Newcastle Aust. Cheers.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Eric Russell
Sent: Wednesday, 7 July 2010 9:08 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Test another address
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To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From michael.maher at virgin.net Tue Jul 6 18:28:50 2010
From: michael.maher at virgin.net (Mike Maher)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 00:28:50 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Both tests received ok in the UK
Regards
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
> Test another address
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100706/b141214f/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Tue Jul 6 18:32:01 2010
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 09:02:01 +0930
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C33BCF1.5020300@ozemail.com.au>
Hi Eric,
I use Mailwasher Pro to screen all incoming emails .....
This ok here ....
On 7/7/2010 7:39 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Test
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
HOWEVER ........
This came flagged as "Origin blacklisted by Spamhaus"
On 7/7/2010 8:37 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Test another address
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100706/b141214f/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
HTH
Cheers
Dave
South Oz
From rovernetca at yahoo.ca Tue Jul 6 18:34:44 2010
From: rovernetca at yahoo.ca (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:34:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
In-Reply-To: <00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
<00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Message-ID: <796485.39438.qm@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Thanks everybody.
Strange things happening with Yahoo mail.
I added another address.
I clicked buttons, checked options, made sure I send Plain Text, made sure the
"SPAM" control was off.....
So far, I have received messages from folk in Australia and the UK.
I think the web host is in the UK anyway but....... it's the Internet... I guess
it doesn't matter.
Cheers,
Eric
________________________________
From: Mike Maher <michael.maher at virgin.net>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 4:28:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Both tests received ok in the UK
Regards
Mike
----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell" <rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
> Test another address
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
><http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100706/b141214f/attachment.html>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure
>to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From magnet at roverclub.org Tue Jul 6 19:05:27 2010
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:05:27 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
In-Reply-To: <00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
<00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP4340E60B7BFD1C6367B19A91B30@phx.gbl>
And in Ontario!
-- BD
========================
Mike Maher wrote:
> Both tests received ok in the UK
>
> Regards
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell" <rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
>
>
>> Test another address
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100706/b141214f/attachment.html>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From den at aachenkennels.com Tue Jul 6 19:43:02 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:43:02 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
<BLU0-SMTP4340E60B7BFD1C6367B19A91B30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA36F@Server.adoptsec.local>
Why do we keep getting these test emails. Is there something wrong with
the server again.
Den.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Magnet
Sent: Wednesday, 7 July 2010 8:05 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
And in Ontario!
-- BD
========================
Mike Maher wrote:
> Both tests received ok in the UK
>
> Regards
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell"
<rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
>
>
>> Test another address
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
00706/b141214f/attachment.html>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Jul 6 19:48:25 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 10:48:25 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA36F@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0><BLU0-SMTP4340E60B7BFD1C6367B19A91B30@phx.gbl>
<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA36F@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <A23632BAF5F34EEC96FC77D5479D8F74@Vista>
No, the Rovernet is like an SU pump, if it doesn't tick every so often you
figure it has stopped.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
> Why do we keep getting these test emails. Is there something wrong with
> the server again.
> Den.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Magnet
> Sent: Wednesday, 7 July 2010 8:05 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
>
> And in Ontario!
>
> -- BD
>
> ========================
>
> Mike Maher wrote:
>> Both tests received ok in the UK
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Mike
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell"
> <rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
>> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
>>
>>
>>> Test another address
>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>>
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
> 00706/b141214f/attachment.html>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>
>>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From rovernetca at yahoo.ca Tue Jul 6 21:04:26 2010
From: rovernetca at yahoo.ca (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 19:04:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA36F@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
<BLU0-SMTP4340E60B7BFD1C6367B19A91B30@phx.gbl>
<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA36F@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <955807.90418.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Sorry. There is nothing wrong with the server, I don't think. There is something
wrong with my reception. The problem only happened with the email account used
to manage the Rovernet mailing list. I could sit still and do nothing. But
then, I wouldn't know if there was trouble with someone else. Or,........... I
could try to find out what is wrong with my ability to *manage* the Rovernet.
Eric
________________________________
From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 5:43:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Why do we keep getting these test emails. Is there something wrong with
the server again.
Den.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Magnet
Sent: Wednesday, 7 July 2010 8:05 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
And in Ontario!
-- BD
========================
Mike Maher wrote:
> Both tests received ok in the UK
>
> Regards
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell"
<rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
>
>
>> Test another address
>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
00706/b141214f/attachment.html>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
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scroll down the whole page.
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From phing at videotron.ca Tue Jul 6 21:44:00 2010
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 22:44:00 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
In-Reply-To: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000201cb1d7e$4152a090$c3f7e1b0$@ca>
Received in Quebec
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Eric Russell
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 7:08 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Test another address
-------------- next part --------------
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From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Tue Jul 6 21:55:37 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 19:55:37 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Motor Change
Message-ID: <29B690AB-2131-4E34-A63E-88F855D9A211@shaw.ca>
This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive Coupe.
I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder walls are
scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the motor. We
are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and would like any
thoughts or suggestions that might help in this project.
Information On Rover Motor?s
Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
Car & Chassis number 80500262A
4 speed plus Overdrive
Engine number 79500703A
The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any alternatives
to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with Power Steering and
the shift mechanism is on the floor.
WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
Car & Chassis number 778006960
Automatic Transmission
Engine number 77510384C
We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
plate configuration.
We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
further information you require?
Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
making this work.
Thanks Harold Stubbs
-------------- next part --------------
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URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100706/ebf8a401/attachment.html>
From slatskars at comcast.net Tue Jul 6 23:50:38 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:50:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <878260657.1372991278478238189.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Eric,
All ten test messages received here in SW Washington.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:09:24 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
Test
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Wed Jul 7 00:10:06 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 22:10:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <878260657.1372991278478238189.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <878260657.1372991278478238189.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <577970.36637.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Slats,
Thanks. If I can read this reply ....... my system is working.
Eric
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----
From: "slatskars at comcast.net" <slatskars at comcast.net>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 9:50:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
Eric,
All ten test messages received here in SW Washington.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 6, 2010 3:09:24 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
Test
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From webgeezer at warbaby.com Wed Jul 7 02:14:26 2010
From: webgeezer at warbaby.com (Robert Arnold)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 00:14:26 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <577970.36637.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <878260657.1372991278478238189.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.co
mcast.net> <577970.36637.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <p06200718c859d9b57a17@[192.168.0.2]>
Receiving loud and clear on Vancouver Island.
R.
--
--
Website: http://www.warbaby.com
(Long overdue for an update. One of these days...)
--
"Hope has two beautiful daughters: their names are anger and courage.
Anger that things are the way they are. Courage to make them the way
they ought to be."
- St Augustine
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 7 03:35:45 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 10:35:45 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Test OT
In-Reply-To: <955807.90418.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <599410.82335.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><00e401cb1d62$fde86ee0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0><BLU0-SMTP4340E60B7BFD1C6367B19A91B30@phx.gbl><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA36F@Server.adoptsec.local>
<955807.90418.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC365@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Here in Rome loud and clear!
Hear you soon, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Eric Russell
Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 4.04
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Sorry. There is nothing wrong with the server, I don't think. There is something wrong with my reception. The problem only happened with the email account used to manage the Rovernet mailing list. I could sit still and do nothing. But then, I wouldn't know if there was trouble with someone else. Or,........... I could try to find out what is wrong with my ability to *manage* the Rovernet.
Eric
________________________________
From: Dennis Gallacher <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tue, July 6, 2010 5:43:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
Why do we keep getting these test emails. Is there something wrong with the server again.
Den.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Magnet
Sent: Wednesday, 7 July 2010 8:05 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test OT
And in Ontario!
-- BD
========================
Mike Maher wrote:
> Both tests received ok in the UK
>
> Regards
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Russell"
<rovernetca at yahoo.ca>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:07 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test OT
>
>
>> Test another address
>>
>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was
>> scrubbed...
>> URL:
>>
<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
00706/b141214f/attachment.html>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Wed Jul 7 04:30:25 2010
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:30:25 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
References: <878260657.1372991278478238189.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP52E43B5E33ADFC360976F695B30@phx.gbl>
Loud and clear on PEI
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Wed Jul 7 07:24:35 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:24:35 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] test
Message-ID: <77355716-E8C5-4F4F-9D0E-986B702543FA@telusplanet.net>
Received in Alberta.
From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Wed Jul 7 07:29:43 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:29:43 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
Message-ID: <9BBA637D-6612-47CB-8410-3E907B807D85@telusplanet.net>
So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know
they should be replaced as soon as possible.
I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which
have some good reviews.
For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly
recommend.
Thanks.
Roy
From jLewis at wsscwater.com Wed Jul 7 07:44:08 2010
From: jLewis at wsscwater.com (Lewis, Joseph (Michael))
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:44:08 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <271446.19659.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F6896@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Got you here in Annapolis MD
1980 Rover SD1
1974 Jensen Interceptor
J. Michael Lewis
jlewis at wsscwater.com
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Eric Russell
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 6:09 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
Test
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 7 08:14:44 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 15:14:44 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
In-Reply-To: <9BBA637D-6612-47CB-8410-3E907B807D85@telusplanet.net>
References: <9BBA637D-6612-47CB-8410-3E907B807D85@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC4A8@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to udine and one rear tyre exploded.
They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i pushed the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful driving.
As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but generally not in normal low speed in the town.
On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on, look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe it's the heat of the exhaust).
I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
Hope this is useful.
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Roy Babiuk
Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 14.30
A: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know they should be replaced as soon as possible.
I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which have some good reviews.
For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly recommend.
Thanks.
Roy
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Wed Jul 7 11:07:28 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:07:28 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover MkIII and Rover MkII
Message-ID: <DD6103FB-14D0-44BC-9D30-4BA56BC8C491@shaw.ca>
This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive Coupe.
I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder walls are
scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the motor. We
are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and would like any
thoughts or suggestions that might help in this project.
Information On Rover Motor?s
Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
Car & Chassis number 80500262A
4 speed plus Overdrive
Engine number 79500703A
The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any alternatives
to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with Power Steering and
the shift mechanism is on the floor.
WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
Car & Chassis number 778006960
Automatic Transmission
Engine number 77510384C
We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
plate configuration.
We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
further information you require?
Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
making this work.
Thanks Harold Stubbs
-------------- next part --------------
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URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100707/dffd9442/attachment.html>
From slatskars at comcast.net Wed Jul 7 13:07:35 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 18:07:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC4A8@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Gianluca Et Al,
As a retired U.S. Navy Aircraft Maintenance Officer, I can tell you what I learned in Aircraft maintenance Officer's school. I n Naval Aviation, tires that have a date code that is over five years old (New Old Stock) are discarded, as in, over the side. Jet aircraft land on a carrier at approximately 135 Knots and generally land fairly hard and stop quickly (arresting gear). The tires are pretty rugged to withstand all this stress, but the aging process to the exterior rubber compound is the primary factor of concern. At the time I went through this course (1961), an additive UOP-88 (Union Oil Product) was added to minimize the UV effect on the rubber. I would guess that improvements have been made to the rubber formulas, but I would not use a tire over ten years old on any of my vehicles. The cost of a set of tires versus the cost of a serious accident, possibly fatal, is just not worth it.? There have been many discussions, articles and law suits about this subject in the last two years. Learn to read your date codes. My two cents worth!
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2010 6:14:44 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: ?What tires are you using on your 2000's?
For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to udine and one rear tyre exploded.
They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i pushed the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful driving.
As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but generally not in normal low speed in the town.
On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on, look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe it's the heat of the exhaust).
I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
Hope this is useful.
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Roy Babiuk
Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 14.30
A: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know they should be replaced as soon as possible.
I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which have some good reviews.
For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly recommend.
Thanks.
Roy
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From sdibdin at gmail.com Wed Jul 7 13:15:36 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 14:15:36 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
In-Reply-To: <116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC4A8@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilXK04CGxNUBe06n4WIZJb18NeLXeebwpcugm62@mail.gmail.com>
Wasn't there a widely reported accident with an MGB a few years ago? They
has spent thousands on a full on restoration. But the guy being
an originality buff had put on NOS original spec tyres. I believe that they
failed at speed and both owner and partner were killed as a result.
Having had Pirelli's on my VW I can say that they are great from noise and
handling, but I have had two tyres have their ply's fail giving the effect
of driving on egg shaped wheels.
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From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Wed Jul 7 13:40:47 2010
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 14:40:47 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] What tyres are you using on your 2000's?
Message-ID: <SNT105-W56F13F96AF3F3FBA017FF28EB30@phx.gbl>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 15:14:44 +0200
> From: <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
> Message-ID:
> <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC4A8 at E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
>
> In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to udine and one rear tyre exploded.
> They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
>
> The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
> So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i pushed the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
> I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
>
> The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
>
> Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
>
> This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful driving.
>
> As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but generally not in normal low speed in the town.
>
> On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on, look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe it's the heat of the exhaust).
>
> I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
>
>
> Hope this is useful.
>
> Best regards, GR.
By recovered I take it you mean retreaded? Retread tyres in Australia have a speed rating of 135 kph. I have seen what re treaded tyres do the the mud guards on trucks, where they car common, and consequently I would not use them on my car.
My Rover in Australia is running Hankook 175/75 by 14's which is a very close match to 165 x 14's which were supplied originally.
175/70 x 14 is the closest cross to 165 x 14.The tyres are 10 years old
and I should replace them.
James.
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail.
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com Wed Jul 7 14:48:01 2010
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 19:48:01 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
In-Reply-To: <9BBA637D-6612-47CB-8410-3E907B807D85@telusplanet.net>
References: <9BBA637D-6612-47CB-8410-3E907B807D85@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W30A9A9B92BC12787C56BA3B8B30@phx.gbl>
I just went to my regular tyre guy - we consulted over budget and appearance and I ended up with a set of Kellys [I'm in New Zealand]. A budget tyre that's a bit noisy but perfectly adequate and looks the part for Sunday driving.
I can relate to the old Pirellis - I had a set of 15 year-plus Perellis on my Triumph 2500 and whilst the tread was still good enough to pass the 6 monthly inspection, they were increasingly dodgy in terms of braking and roadholding - especially in the wet. Binning them for a set of Chinese generics was one the smarter decisions I've made.
> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 06:29:43 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
> So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know
> they should be replaced as soon as possible.
> I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which
> have some good reviews.
> For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly
> recommend.
> Thanks.
> Roy
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
_________________________________________________________________
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From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Wed Jul 7 15:19:07 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 13:19:07 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
Message-ID: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive Coupe.
I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder walls are
scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the motor. We
are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and would like any
thoughts or suggestions that might help in this project.
Information On Rover Motor?s
Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
Car & Chassis number 80500262A
4 speed plus Overdrive
Engine number 79500703A
The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any alternatives
to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with Power Steering and
the shift mechanism is on the floor.
WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
Car & Chassis number 778006960
Automatic Transmission
Engine number 77510384C
We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
plate configuration.
We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
further information you require?
Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
making this work.
Thanks Harold Stubbs
From lafbery at telus.net Wed Jul 7 15:50:11 2010
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 13:50:11 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
Hi Harold,
Why don't you rebore the engine you have, you can get
oversize pistons and rings from Pierre Janusz at Pjemail at aol.com It's a
lot easier than finding a good running engine, any engine you find will most
likely need more work than yours. Peter heaster of RCCC has a couple up at
lytton but they have not run in years and will need work.
I know you can go standard to auto but I am not sure about auto to standard,
Kent will know as he
knows all there is to know about Rovers.
A Mk 11 will fit a Mk 111 but the throttle linkage is different on the auto
and standard.
To get the engine and tranny out you have to remove the overdrive unit first
and this is no easy task.
As it is a standard it is easier to lift the body of the sub frame and
remove the engine with ease.
What you are about to do is a huge under taking and you will come up to many
unseen problems.
Hope this helps a little
Barry
P2
P3
postP5
This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
> am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive Coupe. I am
> unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder walls are scored and
> I would like to look at alternatives for the motor. We are looking at
> another motor from a 1965 MkII and would like any thoughts or suggestions
> that might help in this project.
>
>
>
>
> Information On Rover Motor?s
>
> Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
> Car & Chassis number 80500262A
> 4 speed plus Overdrive
> Engine number 79500703A
>
> The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate another
> block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any alternatives to my
> problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with Power Steering and the shift
> mechanism is on the floor.
>
> WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
>
> Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
> Car & Chassis number 778006960
> Automatic Transmission
> Engine number 77510384C
> We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive plate
> configuration.
> We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that is
> possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what further
> information you require?
>
> Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in making
> this work.
>
> Thanks Harold Stubbs
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From kkinard at att.net Wed Jul 7 16:23:03 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:23:03 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
<72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
Message-ID: <4C34F037.8090704@att.net>
Harold and Barry,
Barry has already told you more than I know and is far more
knowledgeable in matters P5. I would agree that a rebuild of your
present engine is the way to go unless there is some compelling reason
to change blocks. Pierre is great to work with and will treat you
right. I would also agree that dropping the front subframe is the best
way to work on a P5 engine and trans. I also agree with Barry that
fitting a standard trans to an auto crankshaft will probably require
extra machine work and a new spigot bush. Alternatively, if your manual
trans crankshaft can be turned, it may fit in the Mk. II block. I will
look up the crankshaft changes when I get home tonight. The fact that
the engine number has a C suffix may be significant. The VIN should
have a suffix as well, "c" designating vehicles with Weslake head and
extra oil drainback in head and block. This is all from memory, but I
will check this evening.
I have a Mk. III engine with OD but do not know it's condition as I have
not tried to start it. Gordon Harrower would know the condition better
as he traded the car to me. Shipping and importation from the US could
be a nightmare (though I believe the car I got from Gordon was sold new
in Canada) and I would really like to keep the engine and trans for my
own Mk. III saloon.
Roverly,
Kent K.
Barry & Shirley Lafbery wrote:
> Hi Harold,
> Why don't you rebore the engine you have, you can get
> oversize pistons and rings from Pierre Janusz at Pjemail at aol.com
> It's a lot easier than finding a good running engine, any engine you
> find will most likely need more work than yours. Peter heaster of RCCC
> has a couple up at lytton but they have not run in years and will need
> work.
> I know you can go standard to auto but I am not sure about auto to
> standard, Kent will know as he
> knows all there is to know about Rovers.
> A Mk 11 will fit a Mk 111 but the throttle linkage is different on the
> auto and standard.
> To get the engine and tranny out you have to remove the overdrive unit
> first and this is no easy task.
> As it is a standard it is easier to lift the body of the sub frame and
> remove the engine with ease.
> What you are about to do is a huge under taking and you will come up
> to many unseen problems.
>
> Hope this helps a little
>
> Barry
> P2
> P3
> postP5
>
>
>
> This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
>> am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive Coupe.
>> I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder walls are
>> scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the motor. We
>> are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and would like any
>> thoughts or suggestions that might help in this project.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Information On Rover Motor?s
>>
>> Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
>> Car & Chassis number 80500262A
>> 4 speed plus Overdrive
>> Engine number 79500703A
>>
>> The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
>> another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any
>> alternatives to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with
>> Power Steering and the shift mechanism is on the floor.
>>
>> WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
>>
>> Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
>> Car & Chassis number 778006960
>> Automatic Transmission
>> Engine number 77510384C
>> We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
>> plate configuration.
>> We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
>> is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
>> further information you require?
>>
>> Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
>> making this work.
>>
>> Thanks Harold Stubbs
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Wed Jul 7 16:43:29 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 14:43:29 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
<72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
Message-ID: <6C62D184-562D-471B-B99C-FA496607952C@shaw.ca>
Hi Barry thank you for the info. The MkII is actually Peter
Heaster's 1965 in Lytton.
Thanks Harold
On 7-Jul-10, at 1:50 PM, Barry & Shirley Lafbery wrote:
> Hi Harold,
> Why don't you rebore the engine you have, you can
> get oversize pistons and rings from Pierre Janusz at
> Pjemail at aol.com It's a lot easier than finding a good running
> engine, any engine you find will most likely need more work than
> yours. Peter heaster of RCCC has a couple up at lytton but they
> have not run in years and will need work.
> I know you can go standard to auto but I am not sure about auto to
> standard, Kent will know as he
> knows all there is to know about Rovers.
> A Mk 11 will fit a Mk 111 but the throttle linkage is different on
> the auto and standard.
> To get the engine and tranny out you have to remove the overdrive
> unit first and this is no easy task.
> As it is a standard it is easier to lift the body of the sub frame
> and remove the engine with ease.
> What you are about to do is a huge under taking and you will come
> up to many unseen problems.
>
> Hope this helps a little
>
> Barry
> P2
> P3
> postP5
>
>
>
> This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
>> am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive
>> Coupe. I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder
>> walls are scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the
>> motor. We are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and
>> would like any thoughts or suggestions that might help in this
>> project.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Information On Rover Motor?s
>>
>> Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
>> Car & Chassis number 80500262A
>> 4 speed plus Overdrive
>> Engine number 79500703A
>>
>> The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
>> another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any
>> alternatives to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with
>> Power Steering and the shift mechanism is on the floor.
>>
>> WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
>>
>> Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
>> Car & Chassis number 778006960
>> Automatic Transmission
>> Engine number 77510384C
>> We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or
>> drive plate configuration.
>> We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if
>> that is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure
>> what further information you require?
>>
>> Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
>> making this work.
>>
>> Thanks Harold Stubbs
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Jul 7 17:16:00 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 08:16:00 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
In-Reply-To: <116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <62B0DED4A2134F3C9CB6747D50299B4C@Vista>
You could always fit a set of new Firestones...!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: <slatskars at comcast.net>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 4:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
>
> Gianluca Et Al,
>
>
>
> As a retired U.S. Navy Aircraft Maintenance Officer, I can tell you what I
> learned in Aircraft maintenance Officer's school. I n Naval Aviation,
> tires that have a date code that is over five years old (New Old Stock)
> are discarded, as in, over the side. Jet aircraft land on a carrier at
> approximately 135 Knots and generally land fairly hard and stop quickly
> (arresting gear). The tires are pretty rugged to withstand all this
> stress, but the aging process to the exterior rubber compound is the
> primary factor of concern. At the time I went through this course (1961),
> an additive UOP-88 (Union Oil Product) was added to minimize the UV effect
> on the rubber. I would guess that improvements have been made to the
> rubber formulas, but I would not use a tire over ten years old on any of
> my vehicles. The cost of a set of tires versus the cost of a serious
> accident, possibly fatal, is just not worth it. There have been many
> discussions, articles and law suits about this subject in the last two
> years. Learn to read your date codes. My two cents worth!
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2010 6:14:44 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
> For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
>
> In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years
> ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to
> udine and one rear tyre exploded.
> They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front
> ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
>
> The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
> So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i pushed
> the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
> I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I
> had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
>
> The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till
> the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on
> saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
>
> Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find
> the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the
> welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
>
> This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful driving.
>
> As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but
> generally not in normal low speed in the town.
>
> On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on,
> look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe
> it's the heat of the exhaust).
>
> I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
>
>
> Hope this is useful.
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
> conto di Roy Babiuk
> Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 14.30
> A: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Oggetto: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
> So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know they
> should be replaced as soon as possible.
> I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which have
> some good reviews.
> For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly
> recommend.
> Thanks.
> Roy
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100707/43c3e481/attachment.html>
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
From kkinard at att.net Wed Jul 7 20:55:36 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 20:55:36 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
<72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
Message-ID: <4C353018.2040704@att.net>
Hi Harold,
Mk. III auto and manual use the same crank as the manual Mk. IIc, so the
manual crankshaft from the Mk. III engine will fit the "C" automatic
block. I am still unsure of the exact differences between the Mk.IIc
auto and manual cranks, but must assume that you cannot fit a manual box
to a MkIIc automatic crank.
If the block from Peter looks that much better, you can use it with your
present crank
Hope this helps.
Roverly,
Kent K.
>> WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
>>
>> Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
>> Car & Chassis number 778006960
>> Automatic Transmission
>> Engine number 77510384C
>> We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
>> plate configuration.
>> We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
>> is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
>> further information you require?
From kkinard at att.net Wed Jul 7 21:18:14 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 21:18:14 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <4C353566.4070108@att.net>
Hi All,
According to Taylor the larger journal crankshaft and head and block
changes to provide for better oil drainback were introduced on the Mk.
IIc in March 1964.
Roverly,
Kent k.
From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Wed Jul 7 22:00:22 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 20:00:22 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <4C353566.4070108@att.net>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca>
<4C353566.4070108@att.net>
Message-ID: <156BE435-495D-4448-9A3D-931CF8F2072E@shaw.ca>
Kent thank you for all the information. It is appreciated.
Harold
On 7-Jul-10, at 7:18 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi All,
> According to Taylor the larger journal crankshaft and head and
> block changes to provide for better oil drainback were introduced
> on the Mk. IIc in March 1964.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent k.
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Thu Jul 8 04:54:16 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:54:16 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Ropver 820 E - 1989 - beautiful as new, cheap
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC7CB@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<<eBayISAPI.url>>
Il messaggio ? pronto per l'invio con i seguenti file o collegamenti allegati:
Collegamento a: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300442884539&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
What do you think about this car?
It looks very beautifuil, ion my opinion it was a real bargain.
Best regards, GR.
Nota: per proteggere il computer dai virus, le applicazioni di posta elettronica impediscono l'invio o la ricezione di alcuni tipi di allegati. Per determinare la modalit? di gestione degli allegati, controllare le impostazioni di protezione della posta elettronica.
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Thu Jul 8 05:20:21 2010
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 07:20:21 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5B for sale
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP99239E8DC87FB4F57FABBF95B40@phx.gbl>
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-British-Rover-P5B-W0QQAdIdZ205638951
RHD P5B for sale in Ontario in case anyone is interested!!!
Cheers Ben
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu Thu Jul 8 06:02:40 2010
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 07:02:40 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
In-Reply-To: <4C353018.2040704@att.net>
References: <88BE0D92-4E1D-4340-9537-847E4926F5FB@shaw.ca> <72329180C28C41E3AE8A52AB3AF988E0@BarryPC>
<4C353018.2040704@att.net>
Message-ID: <4C35B050.4020405@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Kent,
That's correct, on a MkII crankshaft for automatic gearbox, there is no
provision for the pilot bushing needed for the input shaft of a manual
gearbox.
--Steve Manwell
(Looking forward to building an engine to go with a 4-speed/overdrive to
convert my P5 from present automatic configuration... someday...)
On 7/7/2010 9:55 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Harold,
> Mk. III auto and manual use the same crank as the manual Mk. IIc, so
> the manual crankshaft from the Mk. III engine will fit the "C"
> automatic block. I am still unsure of the exact differences between
> the Mk.IIc auto and manual cranks, but must assume that you cannot fit
> a manual box to a MkIIc automatic crank.
>
> If the block from Peter looks that much better, you can use it with
> your present crank
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Thu Jul 8 08:59:09 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 15:59:09 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
In-Reply-To: <116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC4A8@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<116332667.1554101278526055580.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC910@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Dear Slats,
of course I agree.
The point is I drive more or less 5 km a day, not every day, speed more or less 40 km /h.
By the way, I live very close to the office, where I can get in more or less 10 minutes by bus.
So you' re right, and I'm a bit lazy!
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di slatskars at comcast.net
Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 20.08
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
Gianluca Et Al,
As a retired U.S. Navy Aircraft Maintenance Officer, I can tell you what I learned in Aircraft maintenance Officer's school. I n Naval Aviation, tires that have a date code that is over five years old (New Old Stock) are discarded, as in, over the side. Jet aircraft land on a carrier at approximately 135 Knots and generally land fairly hard and stop quickly (arresting gear). The tires are pretty rugged to withstand all this stress, but the aging process to the exterior rubber compound is the primary factor of concern. At the time I went through this course (1961), an additive UOP-88 (Union Oil Product) was added to minimize the UV effect on the rubber. I would guess that improvements have been made to the rubber formulas, but I would not use a tire over ten years old on any of my vehicles. The cost of a set of tires versus the cost of a serious accident, possibly fatal, is just not worth it.? There have been many discussions, articles and law suits about this subject in the last two years. Learn to read your date codes. My two cents worth!
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2010 6:14:44 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: ?What tires are you using on your 2000's?
For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to udine and one rear tyre exploded.
They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i pushed the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful driving.
As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but generally not in normal low speed in the town.
On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on, look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe it's the heat of the exhaust).
I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
Hope this is useful.
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Roy Babiuk
Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 14.30
A: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know they should be replaced as soon as possible.
I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which have some good reviews.
For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly recommend.
Thanks.
Roy
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From maxthorne at hotmail.com Thu Jul 8 18:38:24 2010
From: maxthorne at hotmail.com (Max Thorne)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:38:24 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (Harold
Stubbs)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.247.1278597566.16327.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.247.1278597566.16327.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT102-DS24B892EC0900C625CB0CC6B1B40@phx.gbl>
Hi there
I've got a '65 IIc coupe, '66 III coupe and '69 B model coupe, and have
previously been involved in swapping a IIa engine into a IIc and a III motor
into a body that had been retrofitted with a v8. All were RHD autos so I
can't make any observations on the manuals. My recollection is that there
were obvious differences between IIa and IIc, in the flywheel area
(presumably throughout the crank but I can't quite recall), but that the IIc
and III engines were the same - except for: the different auto boxes
(Detroit Gears in the Mark II and BW35 in the Mark III), and totally
different linkages. The Mark III linkage system is different from its
predecessors, from the carburetor right down to the accelerator pedal, and
has a different kickdown mechanism. Oh and the electricals are also
negative earth rather than positive (it has an alternator rather than a
generator), but as long as all of these ancillaries are intact on your Mark
III you should be fine. Watch out for your Mark III rear (autobox) mount
as it is also different from the Mark II.
This reminds me, does anyone know of a source of new accelerator pedals?
Best
Max Thorne
Brisbane
--------------------------------------------------
From: <rovernet-request at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:59 PM
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
> rovernet at rovernet.ca
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."
>
>
> Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
> which you are referring.
>
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (Harold Stubbs)
> 2. Re: R: What tires are you using on your 2000's? (Netspace)
> 3. Re: Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (Kent Kinard)
> 4. Re: Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (Kent Kinard)
> 5. Re: Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (Harold Stubbs)
> 6. Ropver 820 E - 1989 - beautiful as new, cheap
> (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
> 7. P5B for sale (BEN RODGERS)
> 8. Re: Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (S Manwell)
> 9. R: R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
> (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 14:43:29 -0700
> From: Harold Stubbs <hhstubbs at shaw.ca>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
> Message-ID: <6C62D184-562D-471B-B99C-FA496607952C at shaw.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252; delsp=yes;
> format=flowed
>
> Hi Barry thank you for the info. The MkII is actually Peter
> Heaster's 1965 in Lytton.
>
> Thanks Harold
>
> On 7-Jul-10, at 1:50 PM, Barry & Shirley Lafbery wrote:
>
>> Hi Harold,
>> Why don't you rebore the engine you have, you can
>> get oversize pistons and rings from Pierre Janusz at
>> Pjemail at aol.com It's a lot easier than finding a good running
>> engine, any engine you find will most likely need more work than
>> yours. Peter heaster of RCCC has a couple up at lytton but they
>> have not run in years and will need work.
>> I know you can go standard to auto but I am not sure about auto to
>> standard, Kent will know as he
>> knows all there is to know about Rovers.
>> A Mk 11 will fit a Mk 111 but the throttle linkage is different on
>> the auto and standard.
>> To get the engine and tranny out you have to remove the overdrive
>> unit first and this is no easy task.
>> As it is a standard it is easier to lift the body of the sub frame
>> and remove the engine with ease.
>> What you are about to do is a huge under taking and you will come
>> up to many unseen problems.
>>
>> Hope this helps a little
>>
>> Barry
>> P2
>> P3
>> postP5
>>
>>
>>
>> This is the first time I have requested help from the Rover Net. I
>>> am rebuilding the motor for a 1967 P5 MkIII Right Hand Drive
>>> Coupe. I am unable to locate a motor in BC Canada. The Cylinder
>>> walls are scored and I would like to look at alternatives for the
>>> motor. We are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII and
>>> would like any thoughts or suggestions that might help in this
>>> project.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Information On Rover Motor?s
>>>
>>> Blue Mark III Coupe 1967
>>> Car & Chassis number 80500262A
>>> 4 speed plus Overdrive
>>> Engine number 79500703A
>>>
>>> The engine cylinders are scored and I have been unable to locate
>>> another block in BC Canada. I would like to explore any
>>> alternatives to my problem. The car is a Right Hand Drive with
>>> Power Steering and the shift mechanism is on the floor.
>>>
>>> WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
>>>
>>> Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
>>> Car & Chassis number 778006960
>>> Automatic Transmission
>>> Engine number 77510384C
>>> We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or
>>> drive plate configuration.
>>> We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if
>>> that is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure
>>> what further information you require?
>>>
>>> Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated by you to assist in
>>> making this work.
>>>
>>> Thanks Harold Stubbs
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 08:16:00 +1000
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
> Message-ID: <62B0DED4A2134F3C9CB6747D50299B4C at Vista>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8";
> reply-type=original
>
> You could always fit a set of new Firestones...!
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <slatskars at comcast.net>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 4:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
>
>>
>>
>> Gianluca Et Al,
>>
>>
>>
>> As a retired U.S. Navy Aircraft Maintenance Officer, I can tell you what
>> I
>> learned in Aircraft maintenance Officer's school. I n Naval Aviation,
>> tires that have a date code that is over five years old (New Old Stock)
>> are discarded, as in, over the side. Jet aircraft land on a carrier at
>> approximately 135 Knots and generally land fairly hard and stop quickly
>> (arresting gear). The tires are pretty rugged to withstand all this
>> stress, but the aging process to the exterior rubber compound is the
>> primary factor of concern. At the time I went through this course (1961),
>> an additive UOP-88 (Union Oil Product) was added to minimize the UV
>> effect
>> on the rubber. I would guess that improvements have been made to the
>> rubber formulas, but I would not use a tire over ten years old on any of
>> my vehicles. The cost of a set of tires versus the cost of a serious
>> accident, possibly fatal, is just not worth it. There have been many
>> discussions, articles and law suits about this subject in the last two
>> years. Learn to read your date codes. My two cents worth!
>>
>>
>>
>> Slats
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2010 6:14:44 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>>
>> For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
>>
>> In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years
>> ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to
>> udine and one rear tyre exploded.
>> They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front
>> ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
>>
>> The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
>> So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i
>> pushed
>> the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
>> I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I
>> had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
>>
>> The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till
>> the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on
>> saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
>>
>> Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find
>> the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the
>> welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
>>
>> This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful
>> driving.
>>
>> As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but
>> generally not in normal low speed in the town.
>>
>> On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on,
>> look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe
>> it's the heat of the exhaust).
>>
>> I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
>>
>>
>> Hope this is useful.
>>
>> Best regards, GR.
>>
>> -----Messaggio originale-----
>> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>> Per
>> conto di Roy Babiuk
>> Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 14.30
>> A: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Oggetto: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>>
>> So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know they
>> should be replaced as soon as possible.
>> I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which have
>> some good reviews.
>> For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly
>> recommend.
>> Thanks.
>> Roy
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100707/43c3e481/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 20:55:36 -0500
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
> Message-ID: <4C353018.2040704 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Hi Harold,
> Mk. III auto and manual use the same crank as the manual Mk. IIc, so the
> manual crankshaft from the Mk. III engine will fit the "C" automatic
> block. I am still unsure of the exact differences between the Mk.IIc
> auto and manual cranks, but must assume that you cannot fit a manual box
> to a MkIIc automatic crank.
>
> If the block from Peter looks that much better, you can use it with your
> present crank
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>>> WE are looking at another motor from a 1965 MkII
>>>
>>> Saloon Mark II Weslake motor 1965
>>> Car & Chassis number 778006960
>>> Automatic Transmission
>>> Engine number 77510384C
>>> We are not sure if the crankshaft is the same re flywheel or drive
>>> plate configuration.
>>> We have the manual crankshaft and parts we could interchange if that
>>> is possible, when we overhaul this engine. I am not sure what
>>> further information you require?
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 21:18:14 -0500
> From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
> Message-ID: <4C353566.4070108 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Hi All,
> According to Taylor the larger journal crankshaft and head and block
> changes to provide for better oil drainback were introduced on the Mk.
> IIc in March 1964.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent k.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 20:00:22 -0700
> From: Harold Stubbs <hhstubbs at shaw.ca>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
> Message-ID: <156BE435-495D-4448-9A3D-931CF8F2072E at shaw.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
> Kent thank you for all the information. It is appreciated.
>
> Harold
>
> On 7-Jul-10, at 7:18 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>> According to Taylor the larger journal crankshaft and head and
>> block changes to provide for better oil drainback were introduced
>> on the Mk. IIc in March 1964.
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent k.
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
>> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:54:16 +0200
> From: <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Ropver 820 E - 1989 - beautiful as new, cheap
> Message-ID:
> <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC7CB at E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> <<eBayISAPI.url>>
> Il messaggio ? pronto per l'invio con i seguenti file o collegamenti
> allegati:
>
> Collegamento a:
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300442884539&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
>
>
> What do you think about this car?
> It looks very beautifuil, ion my opinion it was a real bargain.
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
> Nota: per proteggere il computer dai virus, le applicazioni di posta
> elettronica impediscono l'invio o la ricezione di alcuni tipi di allegati.
> Per determinare la modalit? di gestione degli allegati, controllare le
> impostazioni di protezione della posta elettronica.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100708/e72d1838/attachment.obj>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 07:20:21 -0300
> From: "BEN RODGERS" <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] P5B for sale
> Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP99239E8DC87FB4F57FABBF95B40 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-British-Rover-P5B-W0QQAdIdZ205638951
> RHD P5B for sale in Ontario in case anyone is interested!!!
> Cheers Ben
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at
> www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 07:02:40 -0400
> From: S Manwell <s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu>
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII
> Message-ID: <4C35B050.4020405 at alum.swarthmore.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Kent,
>
> That's correct, on a MkII crankshaft for automatic gearbox, there is no
> provision for the pilot bushing needed for the input shaft of a manual
> gearbox.
>
> --Steve Manwell
> (Looking forward to building an engine to go with a 4-speed/overdrive to
> convert my P5 from present automatic configuration... someday...)
>
>
> On 7/7/2010 9:55 PM, Kent Kinard wrote:
>> Hi Harold,
>> Mk. III auto and manual use the same crank as the manual Mk. IIc, so
>> the manual crankshaft from the Mk. III engine will fit the "C"
>> automatic block. I am still unsure of the exact differences between
>> the Mk.IIc auto and manual cranks, but must assume that you cannot fit
>> a manual box to a MkIIc automatic crank.
>>
>> If the block from Peter looks that much better, you can use it with
>> your present crank
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Roverly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 15:59:09 +0200
> From: <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
> Message-ID:
> <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961AC910 at E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Dear Slats,
>
> of course I agree.
> The point is I drive more or less 5 km a day, not every day, speed more or
> less 40 km /h.
>
> By the way, I live very close to the office, where I can get in more or
> less 10 minutes by bus.
>
> So you' re right, and I'm a bit lazy!
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
>
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
> conto di slatskars at comcast.net
> Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 20.08
> A: Rovernet
> Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
>
>
> Gianluca Et Al,
>
>
>
> As a retired U.S. Navy Aircraft Maintenance Officer, I can tell you what I
> learned in Aircraft maintenance Officer's school. I n Naval Aviation,
> tires that have a date code that is over five years old (New Old Stock)
> are discarded, as in, over the side. Jet aircraft land on a carrier at
> approximately 135 Knots and generally land fairly hard and stop quickly
> (arresting gear). The tires are pretty rugged to withstand all this
> stress, but the aging process to the exterior rubber compound is the
> primary factor of concern. At the time I went through this course (1961),
> an additive UOP-88 (Union Oil Product) was added to minimize the UV effect
> on the rubber. I would guess that improvements have been made to the
> rubber formulas, but I would not use a tire over ten years old on any of
> my vehicles. The cost of a set of tires versus the cost of a serious
> accident, possibly fatal, is just not worth it.? There have been many
> discussions, articles and law suits about this subject in the last two
> years. Learn to read your date codes. My two cents worth!
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Wednesday, July 7, 2010 6:14:44 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: ?What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
> For me Dunlop are ok, I've been using on my 2000 for years.
>
> In my opinion with old tyres you've to be careful because, several years
> ago and more or less in 2003, I was driving on the highway from venice to
> udine and one rear tyre exploded.
> They were the ones that came with the car in 2001; I changed the front
> ones because of irregular consumption, they were the shoch absorbers.
>
> The rear ones looked ok, but they had been re - covered.
> So, driving more or lesss 145 km / h the car made a jump and whan i pushed
> the brake the rear end went right and left, just like a wiper blade.
> I stopped braking and kept the car on the road, I left it stop and when I
> had a look around I found that the rear left tyre cover had gone.
>
> The tyre was still ok with his air inside, so i could drive the car till
> the first exit where i knew there was a garage, it was closing on
> saturnday at 12.00 o' clock.
>
> Whem I opened the boot lid to change the tyre, I had the surprise to find
> the tyre cover INSIDE IT: it had broken the rear arche, removing the
> welding in the corner - no rust - and it was inside in two parts.
>
> This could happen also with very old tyres: low speed and careful driving.
>
> As we know old tyres are dangerous when running and on the highway, but
> generally not in normal low speed in the town.
>
> On my Bmw 318 i, 1987, tyres are 12 years old, more or less 30.000 km on,
> look ok but rear are a bit cracked inside ( not outside, strange; maybe
> it's the heat of the exhaust).
>
> I only use it in the town, but now I will change them to be sure.
>
>
> Hope this is useful.
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
> conto di Roy Babiuk
> Inviato: mercoled? 7 luglio 2010 14.30
> A: Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Oggetto: [Rovernet ] What tires are you using on your 2000's?
>
> So my 24 year old Pirelli P3's on my 2000 TC look great, but I know they
> should be replaced as soon as possible.
> I have looked at Dunlop SP 60's and the Pirelli P5's, both of which have
> some good reviews.
> For those of you with 2000's what tires do you have, or would highly
> recommend.
> Thanks.
> Roy
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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> Want to post photos?
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>
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1
> ****************************************
>
From magnet at roverclub.org Thu Jul 8 19:37:27 2010
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:37:27 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6B Rear Shock Absorbers?
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP62DF52BCB48C42B49C94A391B50@phx.gbl>
Greetings all,
If I remember correctly, there was a thread here a few months ago about
sources of supply for new shocks for the P6. Wish I'd saved the
information, as I find I need a pair for the rear of my '70 3500S.
Was there not a place in New York State who had "hundreds" of new OE
shocks? (I'm in southern Ontario.)
Any leads would be much appreciated!
Cheers,
-- Bill Daddis
From eightoone at comcast.net Thu Jul 8 20:00:31 2010
From: eightoone at comcast.net (eightoone at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 01:00:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
Message-ID: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Bill (and all others).....This is my first posting here...bear with me. I've been in the "high-level search" for shocks for my '70 Rover 3500S for quite some time. The ONLY source I've found is "GAZ" shocks. I got both front and rear gas filled adjustable w/bushings. Not cheap but.....SIDENOTE: I've owned my '70 3500S for 33 yrs. I am the third (3rd) owner. It's 'Tobacco Leaf' exterior and 'Saddle' interior. It has 64K miles (original) and was a California 'blue plate' car until I brought back here to Michigan. Up until 3 yrs. ago it was "bone-stock"...no longer though.
Also does anyone have or have a source for "Rostyle" 5-lug chrome wheels from a P5B they'd wish to sell? They will fit a??P6 (3500S) with only slight grinding of rear wheel well lips. At the moment the next step is to convert the BW T12 auto. trans to either a Muncie 4-spd or a Treamec 5-spd. Does anyone have experiences with this conversion?
Thank you for your time and I am happy to be part of this group...regards...Ed Krupa
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Thu Jul 8 21:15:09 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 19:15:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
In-Reply-To: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <941542.49964.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
In addition to people who are subscribed to the Rovernet who might be able
to?help, I would add Ruth at All British Cars at
allbritishcars at shaw.ca
Unfortunately, Pierre may have dropped off due to his AOL address.
Eric
?"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
----- Original Message ----
From: "eightoone at comcast.net" <eightoone at comcast.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 6:00:31 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
Bill (and all others).....This is my first posting here...bear with me. I've
been in the "high-level search" for shocks for my '70 Rover 3500S for quite some
time. The ONLY source I've found is "GAZ" shocks. I got both front and rear gas
filled adjustable w/bushings. Not cheap but.....SIDENOTE: I've owned my '70
3500S for 33 yrs. I am the third (3rd) owner. It's 'Tobacco Leaf' exterior and
'Saddle' interior. It has 64K miles (original) and was a California 'blue plate'
car until I brought back here to Michigan. Up until 3 yrs. ago it was
"bone-stock"...no longer though.
Also does anyone have or have a source for "Rostyle" 5-lug chrome wheels from a
P5B they'd wish to sell? They will fit a??P6 (3500S) with only slight grinding
of rear wheel well lips. At the moment the next step is to convert the BW T12
auto. trans to either a Muncie 4-spd or a Treamec 5-spd. Does anyone have
experiences with this conversion?
Thank you for your time and I am happy to be part of this group...regards...Ed
Krupa
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To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
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From hhstubbs at shaw.ca Thu Jul 8 21:37:08 2010
From: hhstubbs at shaw.ca (Harold Stubbs)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 19:37:08 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Swapping Engines Rover P5 Mk III to a MkII (Harold
Stubbs)
In-Reply-To: <SNT102-DS24B892EC0900C625CB0CC6B1B40@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.247.1278597566.16327.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<SNT102-DS24B892EC0900C625CB0CC6B1B40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E3E70505-F8FA-4E4A-A1E3-652039988513@shaw.ca>
Max, thank you for the information.
Harold
On 8-Jul-10, at 4:38 PM, Max Thorne wrote:
> Hi there
>
> I've got a '65 IIc coupe, '66 III coupe and '69 B model coupe, and
> have previously been involved in swapping a IIa engine into a IIc
> and a III motor into a body that had been retrofitted with a v8.
> All were RHD autos so I can't make any observations on the
> manuals. My recollection is that there were obvious differences
> between IIa and IIc, in the flywheel area (presumably throughout
> the crank but I can't quite recall), but that the IIc and III
> engines were the same - except for: the different auto boxes
> (Detroit Gears in the Mark II and BW35 in the Mark III), and
> totally different linkages. The Mark III linkage system is
> different from its predecessors, from the carburetor right down to
> the accelerator pedal, and has a different kickdown mechanism. Oh
> and the electricals are also negative earth rather than positive
> (it has an alternator rather than a generator), but as long as all
> of these ancillaries are intact on your Mark III you should be
> fine. Watch out for your Mark III rear (autobox) mount as it is
> also different from the Mark II.
>
> This reminds me, does anyone know of a source of new accelerator
> pedals?
>
> Best
> Max Thorne
> Brisbane
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <rovernet-request at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:59 PM
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1
From lafbery at telus.net Thu Jul 8 21:53:13 2010
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 19:53:13 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
In-Reply-To: <941542.49964.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<941542.49964.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7D1816D025474D26814C5B859B83C6DC@BarryPC>
No Pierre is still here just received stuff from him yesterday
Barry
--------------------------------------------------
> In addition to people who are subscribed to the Rovernet who might be able
> to help, I would add Ruth at All British Cars at
> allbritishcars at shaw.ca
>
> Unfortunately, Pierre may have dropped off due to his AOL address.
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "eightoone at comcast.net" <eightoone at comcast.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 6:00:31 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
>
>
>
> Bill (and all others).....This is my first posting here...bear with me.
> I've
> been in the "high-level search" for shocks for my '70 Rover 3500S for
> quite some
> time. The ONLY source I've found is "GAZ" shocks. I got both front and
> rear gas
> filled adjustable w/bushings. Not cheap but.....SIDENOTE: I've owned my
> '70
> 3500S for 33 yrs. I am the third (3rd) owner. It's 'Tobacco Leaf' exterior
> and
> 'Saddle' interior. It has 64K miles (original) and was a California 'blue
> plate'
> car until I brought back here to Michigan. Up until 3 yrs. ago it was
> "bone-stock"...no longer though.
>
>
> Also does anyone have or have a source for "Rostyle" 5-lug chrome wheels
> from a
> P5B they'd wish to sell? They will fit a P6 (3500S) with only slight
> grinding
> of rear wheel well lips. At the moment the next step is to convert the BW
> T12
> auto. trans to either a Muncie 4-spd or a Treamec 5-spd. Does anyone have
> experiences with this conversion?
>
>
> Thank you for your time and I am happy to be part of this
> group...regards...Ed
> Krupa
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to
> scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From sdibdin at gmail.com Thu Jul 8 22:14:22 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:14:22 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6B Rear Shock Absorbers?
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP62DF52BCB48C42B49C94A391B50@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP62DF52BCB48C42B49C94A391B50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A8417C7F-A4CA-4E1B-AEBD-F32908E3F9EB@gmail.com>
Was it Custom Spares in Brewster NY? I have used them a few times for
parts and they have a lot of obscure P6 bits I've noticed. Their
website is http://www.customsparesltd.com/
Might be worth a try even if they Arent the guys mentioned before.
Cheers,
Steven Dibdin
On Jul 8, 2010, at 8:37 PM, Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org> wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> If I remember correctly, there was a thread here a few months ago
> about sources of supply for new shocks for the P6. Wish I'd saved
> the information, as I find I need a pair for the rear of my '70 3500S.
>
> Was there not a place in New York State who had "hundreds" of new OE
> shocks? (I'm in southern Ontario.)
>
>
> Any leads would be much appreciated!
>
> Cheers,
>
> -- Bill Daddis
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From rovernetca at yahoo.ca Fri Jul 9 00:08:56 2010
From: rovernetca at yahoo.ca (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:08:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
In-Reply-To: <7D1816D025474D26814C5B859B83C6DC@BarryPC>
References: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<941542.49964.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<7D1816D025474D26814C5B859B83C6DC@BarryPC>
Message-ID: <313296.57157.qm@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
I didn't say that his email didn't work, however his email address provider shut
down the Rovernet mailing list and website.
I should have noted that "aol.com" does not accept Rovernet mailing list email.
They regard anything on a mailing list to be "SPAM". Apparently, If they say
JUMP, web hosts only ask "HOW HIGH".
Eric
________________________________
From: Barry & Shirley Lafbery <lafbery at telus.net>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 7:53:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
No Pierre is still here just received stuff from him yesterday
Barry
--------------------------------------------------
> In addition to people who are subscribed to the Rovernet who might be able
> to help, I would add Ruth at All British Cars at
> allbritishcars at shaw.ca
>
> Unfortunately, Pierre may have dropped off due to his AOL address.
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: "eightoone at comcast.net" <eightoone at comcast.net>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 6:00:31 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
>
>
>
> Bill (and all others).....This is my first posting here...bear with me. I've
> been in the "high-level search" for shocks for my '70 Rover 3500S for quite
>some
> time. The ONLY source I've found is "GAZ" shocks. I got both front and rear
gas
> filled adjustable w/bushings. Not cheap but.....SIDENOTE: I've owned my '70
> 3500S for 33 yrs. I am the third (3rd) owner. It's 'Tobacco Leaf' exterior and
> 'Saddle' interior. It has 64K miles (original) and was a California 'blue
>plate'
> car until I brought back here to Michigan. Up until 3 yrs. ago it was
> "bone-stock"...no longer though.
>
>
> Also does anyone have or have a source for "Rostyle" 5-lug chrome wheels from
a
> P5B they'd wish to sell? They will fit a P6 (3500S) with only slight grinding
> of rear wheel well lips. At the moment the next step is to convert the BW T12
> auto. trans to either a Muncie 4-spd or a Treamec 5-spd. Does anyone have
> experiences with this conversion?
>
>
> Thank you for your time and I am happy to be part of this group...regards...Ed
> Krupa
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Jul 9 04:24:34 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:24:34 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rover P6 shocks
In-Reply-To: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1664072738.2236341278637231067.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961ACAD3@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Up until 3 yrs. ago it was "bone-stock"...
What does this mean?
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di eightoone at comcast.net
Inviato: venerd? 9 luglio 2010 3.01
A: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] Rover P6 shocks
Bill (and all others).....This is my first posting here...bear with me. I've been in the "high-level search" for shocks for my '70 Rover 3500S for quite some time. The ONLY source I've found is "GAZ" shocks. I got both front and rear gas filled adjustable w/bushings. Not cheap but.....SIDENOTE: I've owned my '70 3500S for 33 yrs. I am the third (3rd) owner. It's 'Tobacco Leaf' exterior and 'Saddle' interior. It has 64K miles (original) and was a California 'blue plate' car until I brought back here to Michigan. Up until 3 yrs. ago it was "bone-stock"...no longer though.
Also does anyone have or have a source for "Rostyle" 5-lug chrome wheels from a P5B they'd wish to sell? They will fit a??P6 (3500S) with only slight grinding of rear wheel well lips. At the moment the next step is to convert the BW T12 auto. trans to either a Muncie 4-spd or a Treamec 5-spd. Does anyone have experiences with this conversion?
Thank you for your time and I am happy to be part of this group...regards...Ed Krupa
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From eightoone at comcast.net Fri Jul 9 11:13:21 2010
From: eightoone at comcast.net (eightoone at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:13:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] "bone-stock"
Message-ID: <714308985.2410341278692001223.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
This is an American expression. It means 'unaltered' or the way it left the factory.......Ed Krupa
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From aboasberg at webtv.net Fri Jul 9 20:38:22 2010
From: aboasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 01:38:22 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet ] Dipstick Question
Message-ID: <SNT101-DS2436D514AC386160C8157CB5B60@phx.gbl>
There is apparently only one position for the dipstick of my 3500S to be returned to its sleeve, and I can rarely find it.
If it is placed at any angle other than the one correct one, it will go in but once the engine is started, it rattles very loudly.
If I then pull it out about 2 inches, the rattling stops.
Question: Can I do damage to the engine if the dipstick is not shoved all the way in, but remains about 2 inches out of "home"?
Thanks.
Albert
From bsaunders at firstva.com Sat Jul 10 11:47:44 2010
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (Ben Saunders)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 12:47:44 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Dipstick Question
In-Reply-To: <SNT101-DS2436D514AC386160C8157CB5B60@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT101-DS2436D514AC386160C8157CB5B60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <DC1181E9CFC44ECBB19C24D8A14721ED@SD1>
The dip stick can rattle on the aperture in the oil pan if it is bent in the
wrong direction. Try turning it 180 degrees then insert it and see if that
helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Albert Boasberg
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 9:38 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Dipstick Question
There is apparently only one position for the dipstick of my 3500S to be
returned to its sleeve, and I can rarely find it.
If it is placed at any angle other than the one correct one, it will go in
but once the engine is started, it rattles very loudly.
If I then pull it out about 2 inches, the rattling stops.
Question: Can I do damage to the engine if the dipstick is not shoved all
the way in, but remains about 2 inches out of "home"?
Thanks.
Albert
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.830 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2993 - Release Date: 07/10/10
02:36:00
From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Sat Jul 10 21:37:05 2010
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 12:37:05 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
Message-ID: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have a
good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am
desparate for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about brake
lockup I had an external look at the servo with no obvious faults. I
have a spare servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so that I took
apart following the repair manual to see how it worked as I wasn't
really sure what I was looking for apart from the obvious like a split
seal etc. I was alerted to the non-return valve but again I am not sure
what to look for. The initial problem was a four wheel brake solid
lockup that was only cured when fluid was released via one of the front
bleed screws.
1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping
sound then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking
for in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return
valve, should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I can
blow both ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it be
taken apart? Can it be cleaned?
If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other
advise I would be most grateful.
Thanks,
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Rosebud, Australia
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sat Jul 10 21:58:34 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 12:58:34 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
In-Reply-To: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
References: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <6361D885027C461F95CB6F319F51CDBB@Vista>
The main valve that lets the air in and out of the unit is under the plastic
piece about 5cm across.
If that sticks Up, the brakes stick on.
Check it by starting engine and applying brakes - should stick.
Carefully remove the screws around the edge of the plastic and get ready to
catch the spring, diaphragm and piston/valve.
Is the spring complete? not broken
If the piston does not popp out, pull it out with pliers.
Is there rust around the piston or bore is came out of? The piston is under
10mm across.
Have the brakes released now? If so that is the problem area. If not, the
main piston is stuck On,
which the limited travel of the pedal indicates is the case.
The only to fix that is to remove and dismantle the boster. The book
describes it well.
Look for rust in the main bore and on the piston.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 12:37 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
> Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have a
> good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am desparate
> for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about brake lockup I
> had an external look at the servo with no obvious faults. I have a spare
> servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so that I took apart following
> the repair manual to see how it worked as I wasn't really sure what I was
> looking for apart from the obvious like a split seal etc. I was alerted to
> the non-return valve but again I am not sure what to look for. The initial
> problem was a four wheel brake solid lockup that was only cured when fluid
> was released via one of the front bleed screws.
>
> 1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
> brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping sound
> then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
>
> 2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
> servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking for
> in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return valve,
> should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I can blow both
> ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it be taken apart?
> Can it be cleaned?
>
> If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other advise
> I would be most grateful.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray Wilkins
> 1976 P6B
> Rosebud, Australia
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From galmpton at shaw.ca Sat Jul 10 22:25:20 2010
From: galmpton at shaw.ca (galmpton)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 20:25:20 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
References: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
<6361D885027C461F95CB6F319F51CDBB@Vista>
Message-ID: <290FC1E2594E46A0B147EC3C5A5CAAEE@user789ad50f2d>
Hi,
Not familiar with P6B. but am familiar with braking systems. I suggest that
your issue is with the master and not the Servo.
Is there any reason why your peddle travel would have been shortened? Or
resticted from coming back for full travel (plus a cm of clearance) If
there is, your problem is that your pushrod is not coming out far enough for
the pressure to release from the master cyl. on returm.
Just a thought
Al
Rover SD1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2010 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
> The main valve that lets the air in and out of the unit is under the
> plastic piece about 5cm across.
> If that sticks Up, the brakes stick on.
> Check it by starting engine and applying brakes - should stick.
> Carefully remove the screws around the edge of the plastic and get ready
> to catch the spring, diaphragm and piston/valve.
> Is the spring complete? not broken
> If the piston does not popp out, pull it out with pliers.
> Is there rust around the piston or bore is came out of? The piston is
> under 10mm across.
> Have the brakes released now? If so that is the problem area. If not,
> the main piston is stuck On,
> which the limited travel of the pedal indicates is the case.
> The only to fix that is to remove and dismantle the boster. The book
> describes it well.
> Look for rust in the main bore and on the piston.
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 12:37 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
>
>
>> Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have a
>> good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am
>> desparate for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about brake
>> lockup I had an external look at the servo with no obvious faults. I have
>> a spare servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so that I took apart
>> following the repair manual to see how it worked as I wasn't really sure
>> what I was looking for apart from the obvious like a split seal etc. I
>> was alerted to the non-return valve but again I am not sure what to look
>> for. The initial problem was a four wheel brake solid lockup that was
>> only cured when fluid was released via one of the front bleed screws.
>>
>> 1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
>> brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping sound
>> then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
>>
>> 2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
>> servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking for
>> in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return valve,
>> should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I can blow
>> both ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it be taken
>> apart? Can it be cleaned?
>>
>> If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other
>> advise I would be most grateful.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ray Wilkins
>> 1976 P6B
>> Rosebud, Australia
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From michael.maher at virgin.net Sun Jul 11 04:56:46 2010
From: michael.maher at virgin.net (Mike Maher)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 10:56:46 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
References: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com><6361D885027C461F95CB6F319F51CDBB@Vista>
<290FC1E2594E46A0B147EC3C5A5CAAEE@user789ad50f2d>
Message-ID: <000f01cb20df$60caf260$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Is there any possibilty that the return spring inside the Master Cylinder
has fractured, so that the piston is retained in the forward position?
I experienced similar symptoms with the hydraulically actuated clutch of an
SD1 and the cause turned out to be the fractured spring, cured by
canibalising another similar master cylinder for its return spring
Mike Maher
----- Original Message -----
From: "galmpton" <galmpton at shaw.ca>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 4:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
> Hi,
> Not familiar with P6B. but am familiar with braking systems. I suggest
> that your issue is with the master and not the Servo.
> Is there any reason why your peddle travel would have been shortened?
> Or resticted from coming back for full travel (plus a cm of clearance) If
> there is, your problem is that your pushrod is not coming out far enough
> for the pressure to release from the master cyl. on returm.
>
> Just a thought
> Al
> Rover SD1
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2010 7:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
>
>
>> The main valve that lets the air in and out of the unit is under the
>> plastic piece about 5cm across.
>> If that sticks Up, the brakes stick on.
>> Check it by starting engine and applying brakes - should stick.
>> Carefully remove the screws around the edge of the plastic and get ready
>> to catch the spring, diaphragm and piston/valve.
>> Is the spring complete? not broken
>> If the piston does not popp out, pull it out with pliers.
>> Is there rust around the piston or bore is came out of? The piston is
>> under 10mm across.
>> Have the brakes released now? If so that is the problem area. If not,
>> the main piston is stuck On,
>> which the limited travel of the pedal indicates is the case.
>> The only to fix that is to remove and dismantle the boster. The book
>> describes it well.
>> Look for rust in the main bore and on the piston.
>>
>> PVS
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
>> To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 12:37 PM
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
>>
>>
>>> Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have a
>>> good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am
>>> desparate for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about brake
>>> lockup I had an external look at the servo with no obvious faults. I
>>> have a spare servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so that I took
>>> apart following the repair manual to see how it worked as I wasn't
>>> really sure what I was looking for apart from the obvious like a split
>>> seal etc. I was alerted to the non-return valve but again I am not sure
>>> what to look for. The initial problem was a four wheel brake solid
>>> lockup that was only cured when fluid was released via one of the front
>>> bleed screws.
>>>
>>> 1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
>>> brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping
>>> sound then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
>>>
>>> 2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
>>> servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking
>>> for in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return
>>> valve, should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I can
>>> blow both ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it be
>>> taken apart? Can it be cleaned?
>>>
>>> If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other
>>> advise I would be most grateful.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ray Wilkins
>>> 1976 P6B
>>> Rosebud, Australia
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From magnet at roverclub.org Sun Jul 11 16:51:38 2010
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 17:51:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
In-Reply-To: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
References: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP66CE68347CDC75058780BD91B70@phx.gbl>
Hello Ray,
I've had some recent experience with that. It is often the case that
the brakes "lock on" because the servo does not release fully after a
brake application. There are a few possible causes for this. The servo
is of the "suspended vacuum" type, which means that when it is off,
there is vacuum on both sides of the diaphragm. When the brakes are
applied, the air valve on the master cylinder opens and lets air at
atmospheric pressure into the servo, on the side of the diaphragm
furthest from the hydraulic piston. This pushes the piston in, applying
hydraulic pressure to the brakes. When the footbrake is released, the
air valve closes and vacuum is supposed to be recreated on the front
side of the diaphragm, allowing the big spring in the servo to return
the piston to its at-rest position. But any air leakage into the two
vacuum pipes that connect the servo to the master cylinder can prevent
this vacuum from building up enough to release the brakes. So (1) check
all the hoses and pipes for any air leakage, and (2) check the air valve
under the white filter cap on the master cylinder. There is a little
spring under the cap, by the way.
Try, when the brakes are locked on, removing the vacuum supply from the
inlet manifold to the servo. If the brakes release, an air leak is a
likely cause.
In my case, I had replaced the master cylinder with a new one (same, for
all practical purposes, as used on a Jag V12 E-type). After fitting the
new m/cyl, I had the same lock up syndome that you describe. What I
finally diagnosed as the fault was air leaking into the system between
the air valve body and the m/cyl casting -- a bit of sealant on the
gasket and hey presto!
Another possible causes of the servo not returning to its "off" position
could be purely mechanical -- too much friction in the servo itself.
I've had that problem too. After rebuilding the servo, the shaft gland
seal on the operating rod was a good tight fit. So good, in fact, that
when using Castrol's "new improved" synthetic LMA brake fluid (which
subjectively does not seem to have as good lubricating qualities as the
old stuff) the servo would "grunt" on application, and only release when
you took your foot off the throttle to create a vacuum "spike" -- with
another "grunt". I fixed this by stretching the servo spring, but I
would not recommend that approach.
Another possibility is of course the master cylinder itself, and from
what you say about it being stiff and noisy, this may well be your
problem. If it doesn't return completely when you release the brakes,
it will hold the air valve open, keeping the servo energised. Try
taking the m/cyl out and cleaning the bore and piston, and see what kind
of shape the rubber seals are in. P6B m/cyls can be rebuilt, but kits
having the right size (3/8") seal for the little piston that operates
the air valve are hard come by. (The Jag m/cyl uses a 5/16" air valve
piston.)
Good luck!
Cheers,
-- Bill Daddis
============================
Ray Wilkins wrote:
> Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have
> a good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am
> desparate for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about
> brake lockup I had an external look at the servo with no obvious
> faults. I have a spare servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so
> that I took apart following the repair manual to see how it worked as
> I wasn't really sure what I was looking for apart from the obvious
> like a split seal etc. I was alerted to the non-return valve but again
> I am not sure what to look for. The initial problem was a four wheel
> brake solid lockup that was only cured when fluid was released via one
> of the front bleed screws.
>
> 1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
> brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping
> sound then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
>
> 2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
> servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking
> for in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return
> valve, should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I
> can blow both ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it
> be taken apart? Can it be cleaned?
>
> If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other
> advise I would be most grateful.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray Wilkins
> 1976 P6B
> Rosebud, Australia
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From roverman2 at verizon.net Sun Jul 11 17:11:06 2010
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 18:11:06 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Bendix pumps
Message-ID: <2B63556F-7630-445C-A18E-EF448A14EE4B@verizon.net>
Hi Slats,
Good information on SU pumps. I have one on my Series One Land-Rover.
I would be interested to know what you find in a Bendix pump if you
can take it apart!
Dermot Harvey
From gjkzscruggs at verizon.net Sun Jul 11 17:43:43 2010
From: gjkzscruggs at verizon.net (Scruggs Family)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 18:43:43 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake lockup
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1278867607.26077.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1278867607.26077.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <037801cb214a$84548820$8cfd9860$@net>
Ray, when nearly the same thing happened to me years ago I found the problem
to be the master cylinder.
I was out of town and noticed my '70 3500S was requiring more power than
normal to maintain constant speed. Pulling over it was clear from the heat
coming off the front wheels that the brakes were dragging. Without the
luxury of leisurely trouble shooting I came up with a short stick which I
placed against the master cylinder and tapped on the other end a few times
with a rock. A quick test revealed the brakes were free again. Over the
next 100 miles home I had to stop half a dozen times and repeat the process.
I downshifted whenever possible to keep from using the brakes. Later I
rebuilt the master cylinder and the problem never returned. But I still
keep a stick in the trunk/boot... just in case.
In retrospect I believe the problem was that the master cylinder was in the
early stages of needing to be rebuilt and heat from the exhaust manifold
exacerbated the problem.
Regards,
Gross Scruggs
Annapolis MD, USA
From p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk Mon Jul 12 06:25:01 2010
From: p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk (p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 12:25:01 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
References: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <F0645C331F7C47D19AC2998DE3805D8F@SN037535920331>
Initially the fault does sound like servo but if the scrapping sound is
inside the car it is master cylinder and it could be the push rod fouled,
bent or broken free inside the cylinder
Regards
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 3:37 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
> Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have a
> good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am desparate
> for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about brake lockup I
> had an external look at the servo with no obvious faults. I have a spare
> servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so that I took apart following
> the repair manual to see how it worked as I wasn't really sure what I was
> looking for apart from the obvious like a split seal etc. I was alerted to
> the non-return valve but again I am not sure what to look for. The initial
> problem was a four wheel brake solid lockup that was only cured when fluid
> was released via one of the front bleed screws.
>
> 1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
> brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping sound
> then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
>
> 2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
> servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking for
> in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return valve,
> should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I can blow both
> ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it be taken apart?
> Can it be cleaned?
>
> If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other advise
> I would be most grateful.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray Wilkins
> 1976 P6B
> Rosebud, Australia
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Mon Jul 12 12:11:46 2010
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 13:11:46 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Dunlop Brake Line.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
Would anyone out there have a spare brake pipe which goes from the bottom of one caliper to the top of the caliper on the other side, for the front caliper for a 66 Rover 2000 TC equiped with Dunlop brakes? I am putting in new pistons and I thought that I should replace this line, as there is a joiner in it which should not be there.
Thanks,
James Radcliffe.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Tue Jul 13 08:17:58 2010
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:17:58 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet ] Trying to reach Pete McArdle
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP387EF0E0C6A4AE1620211795B90@phx.gbl>
Pete Please contact me me at irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Ben
(irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 14 04:06:52 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 11:06:52 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Dear friends,
on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm
looking for the following parts:
plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete
plastic cover of the number plate light , or complete
little lights inbetween the doors, or complete
Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or complete.
Does someone have there parts?
Could someone tell me where to find them?
I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Best regards, Gianluca.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
inbox.
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ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
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From kkinard at att.net Wed Jul 14 07:33:08 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 07:33:08 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca> <SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
Hi Gianluca,
The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to call
their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very limited.
Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem. They have parts
that they don't know they have. Even fifteen years ago parts unique to
the Mk. 1 were getting hard to find. I believe the Mk. 1 tail-stop lamp
assemblies are the same at for the Mk. 2 Estate, but I don't have an
adequate parts catalog in order to confirm this. Again, ask Rimmers
about this interchange.
Triumphantly,
Kent K.
gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
>
> Dear friends,
>
> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm
> looking for the following parts:
>
>
> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete
> plastic cover of the number plate light , or complete
> little lights inbetween the doors, or complete
> Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or complete.
>
> Does someone have there parts?
> Could someone tell me where to find them?
> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
>
> Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Best regards, Gianluca.
>
From sdibdin at gmail.com Wed Jul 14 07:50:33 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 07:50:33 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
In-Reply-To: <4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
Message-ID: <89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>
Quiller triumph +44 20 8854 4777 might be worth a try.
On Jul 14, 2010, at 7:33 AM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Hi Gianluca,
> The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to
> call their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very
> limited. Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem.
> They have parts that they don't know they have. Even fifteen years
> ago parts unique to the Mk. 1 were getting hard to find. I believe
> the Mk. 1 tail-stop lamp assemblies are the same at for the Mk. 2
> Estate, but I don't have an adequate parts catalog in order to
> confirm this. Again, ask Rimmers about this interchange.
>
> Triumphantly,
> Kent K.
>
> gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
>>
>> Dear friends,
>>
>> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm
>> looking for the following parts:
>>
>>
>> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete
>> plastic cover of the number plate light , or complete
>> little lights inbetween the doors, or complete
>> Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or complete.
>>
>> Does someone have there parts?
>> Could someone tell me where to find them?
>> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
>>
>> Any advice will be appreciated.
>>
>> Best regards, Gianluca.
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From kkinard at att.net Wed Jul 14 07:51:45 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 07:51:45 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] OT: Triumph 2000 Mk. 1 lamp assemblies
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca> <SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <4C3DB2E1.80504@att.net>
Hi Gianluca,
I thought of another place and they do have these lamps listed in their
Triumph cataloge under "lamps".
Earlpart Ltd. Google for their on line catalogs and select Triumph. I
was amazed at what they had listed. Whether they have the items in stock
is another question.
Their computer skills may be lacking and they do not always answer
emails promptly, so consider calling them.
Triumphantly,
Kent K.
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 14 07:59:40 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:59:40 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted - Rimmer Brothers
In-Reply-To: <4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca> <SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4C9D@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Dear Kent,
very kind and precise as usual.
Very kind of you, also from Valerio!
Best regards, hear you soon, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Kent Kinard
Inviato: mercoled? 14 luglio 2010 14.33
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
Hi Gianluca,
The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to call their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very limited.
Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem. They have parts that they don't know they have. Even fifteen years ago parts unique to the Mk. 1 were getting hard to find. I believe the Mk. 1 tail-stop lamp assemblies are the same at for the Mk. 2 Estate, but I don't have an adequate parts catalog in order to confirm this. Again, ask Rimmers about this interchange.
Triumphantly,
Kent K.
gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
>
> Dear friends,
>
> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm looking for the
> following parts:
>
>
> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete plastic cover
> of the number plate light , or complete little lights inbetween the
> doors, or complete Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or
> complete.
>
> Does someone have there parts?
> Could someone tell me where to find them?
> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
>
> Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Best regards, Gianluca.
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 14 07:59:44 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:59:44 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted - Quiller triumph
In-Reply-To: <89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
<89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4C9F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Thanks Steve!
Do you have an e - mail?
Bnest regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
Inviato: mercoled? 14 luglio 2010 14.51
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
Quiller triumph +44 20 8854 4777 might be worth a try.
On Jul 14, 2010, at 7:33 AM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Hi Gianluca,
> The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to call
> their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very
> limited. Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem.
> They have parts that they don't know they have. Even fifteen years ago
> parts unique to the Mk. 1 were getting hard to find. I believe the Mk.
> 1 tail-stop lamp assemblies are the same at for the Mk. 2 Estate, but
> I don't have an adequate parts catalog in order to confirm this.
> Again, ask Rimmers about this interchange.
>
> Triumphantly,
> Kent K.
>
> gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
>>
>> Dear friends,
>>
>> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm looking for
>> the following parts:
>>
>>
>> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete plastic cover
>> of the number plate light , or complete little lights inbetween the
>> doors, or complete Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or
>> complete.
>>
>> Does someone have there parts?
>> Could someone tell me where to find them?
>> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
>>
>> Any advice will be appreciated.
>>
>> Best regards, Gianluca.
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From sdibdin at gmail.com Wed Jul 14 08:11:49 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:11:49 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted - Quiller
triumph
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4C9F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
<89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4C9F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <AC908199-9744-4637-97E7-F0817F7742DA@gmail.com>
Here's their website. I'm fairly sure they have a contact address there.
http://www.quillertriumph.co.uk/
On Jul 14, 2010, at 7:59 AM, <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com> wrote:
> Thanks Steve!
> Do you have an e - mail?
> Bnest regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-
> bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
> Inviato: mercoled? 14 luglio 2010 14.51
> A: Rovernet
> Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
>
> Quiller triumph +44 20 8854 4777 might be worth a try.
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2010, at 7:33 AM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi Gianluca,
>> The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to
>> call
>> their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very
>> limited. Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem.
>> They have parts that they don't know they have. Even fifteen years
>> ago
>> parts unique to the Mk. 1 were getting hard to find. I believe the
>> Mk.
>> 1 tail-stop lamp assemblies are the same at for the Mk. 2 Estate, but
>> I don't have an adequate parts catalog in order to confirm this.
>> Again, ask Rimmers about this interchange.
>>
>> Triumphantly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
>>>
>>> Dear friends,
>>>
>>> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm looking for
>>> the following parts:
>>>
>>>
>>> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete plastic
>>> cover
>>> of the number plate light , or complete little lights inbetween the
>>> doors, or complete Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or
>>> complete.
>>>
>>> Does someone have there parts?
>>> Could someone tell me where to find them?
>>> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
>>>
>>> Any advice will be appreciated.
>>>
>>> Best regards, Gianluca.
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
>> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this
> page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com Wed Jul 14 08:41:42 2010
From: stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com (stephen clark)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:41:42 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
In-Reply-To: <89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>
<89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinWm92LOMT8XfPF6SsAc6Kee_XrgVhtvxzSDcxH@mail.gmail.com>
Hello rovernet,
I'm wondering if anyone knows of a mechanic/enthusiast in Pennsylvania, USA
who would be able to replace the master cylinder, and do some other very
basic work on a 1966 P5? I have the parts, just having trouble finding
someone who is not put off by a car they have never heard of!
I am near Philadelphia, I can arrange a flatbed to wherever, just trying to
find a sympathetic and available person to actually do the work.
Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Stephen
917 414 4554
On Wed, Jul 14, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at gmail.com> wrote:
> Quiller triumph +44 20 8854 4777 might be worth a try.
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2010, at 7:33 AM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Gianluca,
>> The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to call
>> their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very limited.
>> Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem. They have parts that
>> they don't know they have. Even fifteen years ago parts unique to the Mk. 1
>> were getting hard to find. I believe the Mk. 1 tail-stop lamp assemblies are
>> the same at for the Mk. 2 Estate, but I don't have an adequate parts catalog
>> in order to confirm this. Again, ask Rimmers about this interchange.
>>
>> Triumphantly,
>> Kent K.
>>
>> gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Dear friends,
>>>
>>> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm
>>> looking for the following parts:
>>>
>>>
>>> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete
>>> plastic cover of the number plate light , or complete
>>> little lights inbetween the doors, or complete
>>> Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or complete.
>>>
>>> Does someone have there parts?
>>> Could someone tell me where to find them?
>>> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
>>>
>>> Any advice will be appreciated.
>>>
>>> Best regards, Gianluca.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From ghegranes at msn.com Wed Jul 14 12:38:41 2010
From: ghegranes at msn.com (Grant Hegranes)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 17:38:41 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted - Quiller
triumph
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4C9F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <mailman.1.1278954007.20950.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><SNT105-W23B0CA0C56BCD598F3863D8EB80@phx.gbl><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4B10@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><4C3DAE84.4060308@att.net>,
<89670DC9-E45C-4F52-8AAF-E0946D1C3476@gmail.com>,
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961D4C9F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <COL106-W7740DE73A23BE307BE5EFA3BA0@phx.gbl>
I googled the phone number and came up with this;
http://www.quillertriumph.co.uk/Quiller/Contact/contact.htm
Best of luck
Grant
> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:59:44 +0200
> From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted - Quiller triumph
>
> Thanks Steve!
> Do you have an e - mail?
> Bnest regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Steven Dibdin
> Inviato: mercoled? 14 luglio 2010 14.51
> A: Rovernet
> Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Triumph Saloon Mk1 parts wanted
>
> Quiller triumph +44 20 8854 4777 might be worth a try.
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2010, at 7:33 AM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
> > Hi Gianluca,
> > The first place to look would be Rimmer Brothers. You may have to call
> > their service desk as their on-line listings for Mk. 1 are very
> > limited. Getting someone to actually go look could be a problem.
> > They have parts that they don't know they have. Even fifteen years ago
> > parts unique to the Mk. 1 were getting hard to find. I believe the Mk.
> > 1 tail-stop lamp assemblies are the same at for the Mk. 2 Estate, but
> > I don't have an adequate parts catalog in order to confirm this.
> > Again, ask Rimmers about this interchange.
> >
> > Triumphantly,
> > Kent K.
> >
> > gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Dear friends,
> >>
> >> on behalf of my friend valerio, from Venice, I alm looking for
> >> the following parts:
> >>
> >>
> >> plastic external cover of the rear lights, ore complete plastic cover
> >> of the number plate light , or complete little lights inbetween the
> >> doors, or complete Plastic external covers of front indicatiors , or
> >> complete.
> >>
> >> Does someone have there parts?
> >> Could someone tell me where to find them?
> >> I tried on e- bay and I found a front indicator, but only one.
> >>
> >> Any advice will be appreciated.
> >>
> >> Best regards, Gianluca.
> >>
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> > Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From lacpsyd6 at msn.com Thu Jul 15 16:33:59 2010
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 15:33:59 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
Message-ID: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
Just testing
Lance La Certe
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From kkinard at att.net Thu Jul 15 16:52:15 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:52:15 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C3F830F.1010102@att.net>
LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE wrote:
> Just testing
>
> Lance La Certe
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
gottcha in San Antonio
Kent K.
From jLewis at wsscwater.com Fri Jul 16 07:15:33 2010
From: jLewis at wsscwater.com (Lewis, Joseph (Michael))
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 08:15:33 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Received here in Annapolis
J. Michael Lewis
80 Rover SD1
74 Jensen Interceptor
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
Just testing
Lance La Certe
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From stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com Fri Jul 16 09:40:38 2010
From: stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com (stephen clark)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 10:40:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
<B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not getting rovernet emails anymore - anyone
see this one?
Stephen Clark
1966 P5
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael) <
jLewis at wsscwater.com> wrote:
> Received here in Annapolis
>
> J. Michael Lewis
>
> 80 Rover SD1
> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
>
> Just testing
>
> Lance La Certe
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From david at davidwalter.net Fri Jul 16 10:08:03 2010
From: david at davidwalter.net (David Walter)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 08:08:03 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl><B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
<AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
I got it in California
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen clark" <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not getting rovernet emails anymore -
> anyone
> see this one?
>
> Stephen Clark
> 1966 P5
>
> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael) <
> jLewis at wsscwater.com> wrote:
>
>> Received here in Annapolis
>>
>> J. Michael Lewis
>>
>> 80 Rover SD1
>> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
>> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
>> To: Rovernet
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
>>
>> Just testing
>>
>> Lance La Certe
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
>> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com Fri Jul 16 10:37:02 2010
From: stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com (stephen clark)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 11:37:02 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl>
<B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
<AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
<3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilNdvvvvtP8Yhryhg7sxBAXU7Eme76J1kJq9F9B@mail.gmail.com>
O.K., thanks David. While this seems to be working, my questions is:
Does anyone know someone in Pennsylvania (I am just outside of
Philadelphia/Doylestown/New Hope/Allentown/Lambertville N.J./ etc.) who
would be able to do some work on my 66 P5? I have a new master cylinder
brake cylinders that need to be installed - and some other general engine
work. Having trouble finding someone who knows what a Rover is, someone who
does not regard it as "exotic". If anyone knows someone in this area who
could check it out, I'd really appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks
Stephen
917 414 4554
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 11:08 AM, David Walter <david at davidwalter.net>wrote:
> I got it in California
>
> David
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "stephen clark" <
> stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
>
>
> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not getting rovernet emails anymore -
>> anyone
>> see this one?
>>
>> Stephen Clark
>> 1966 P5
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael) <
>> jLewis at wsscwater.com> wrote:
>>
>> Received here in Annapolis
>>>
>>> J. Michael Lewis
>>>
>>> 80 Rover SD1
>>> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>>> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
>>> To: Rovernet
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
>>>
>>> Just testing
>>>
>>> Lance La Certe
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
>>> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: <
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100716/49f543b5/attachment.html
>> >
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Jul 16 10:43:15 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 17:43:15 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Test
In-Reply-To: <3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl><B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root><AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
<3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FDB2E@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Got in Italy.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di David Walter
Inviato: venerd? 16 luglio 2010 17.08
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
I got it in California
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen clark" <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not getting rovernet emails anymore -
> anyone
> see this one?
>
> Stephen Clark
> 1966 P5
>
> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael) <
> jLewis at wsscwater.com> wrote:
>
>> Received here in Annapolis
>>
>> J. Michael Lewis
>>
>> 80 Rover SD1
>> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
>> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
>> To: Rovernet
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
>>
>> Just testing
>>
>> Lance La Certe
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
>> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100716/49f543b5/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Jul 16 10:43:19 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 17:43:19 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: - Rover p6 TURBO DIESEL
In-Reply-To: <3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
References: <COL111-DS1555173BC1897EF679FF2583BB0@phx.gbl><B263CD0849EEED4496950A6F1247AB6C3F68E5@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root><AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
<3501834E71F240779A5B07C2B6B2718E@DavidVista>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FDB2F@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150465309976&fromMa
keTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
The second case I've heard of, one was on Ridiger's page if i remember
well.
Best regards, GR.
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Fri Jul 16 11:48:02 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 09:48:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <486979.35208.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Stephen,
This message came through the Rovernet system and can be read on the West Coast of Canada.
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Fri, 7/16/10, stephen clark <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com> wrote:
> From: stephen clark <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 7:40 AM
> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not
> getting rovernet emails anymore - anyone
> see this one?
>
> Stephen Clark
> 1966 P5
>
> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael)
> <
> jLewis at wsscwater.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Received here in Annapolis
> >
> > J. Michael Lewis
> >
> > 80 Rover SD1
> > 74 Jensen Interceptor
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
> > Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
> > To: Rovernet
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
> >
> > Just testing
> >
> > Lance La Certe
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> > <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
> > 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> go to this page. Be
> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
From stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com Fri Jul 16 11:59:38 2010
From: stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com (stephen clark)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 12:59:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <486979.35208.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTinngggzOlEbjUXOX52pi34vys31hqJIo2A2emHK@mail.gmail.com>
<486979.35208.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinMfG_IHhErBA3NJVb6kr3OD9qR-K_z_kQmMPrh@mail.gmail.com>
Eric,
Great and thanks!
Stephen
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Stephen,
> This message came through the Rovernet system and can be read on the West
> Coast of Canada.
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/16/10, stephen clark <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > From: stephen clark <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
> > To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> > Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 7:40 AM
> > Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not
> > getting rovernet emails anymore - anyone
> > see this one?
> >
> > Stephen Clark
> > 1966 P5
> >
> > On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael)
> > <
> > jLewis at wsscwater.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Received here in Annapolis
> > >
> > > J. Michael Lewis
> > >
> > > 80 Rover SD1
> > > 74 Jensen Interceptor
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> > [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > > On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
> > > To: Rovernet
> > > Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
> > >
> > > Just testing
> > >
> > > Lance La Certe
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > > <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
> > > 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
> > > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> > go to this page. Be
> > > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> > go to this page. Be
> > > sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100716/49f543b5/attachment.html
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> > this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Fri Jul 16 18:56:14 2010
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:56:14 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <486979.35208.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <486979.35208.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C40F19E.2020204@bigpond.com>
Is this a private Test or can anyone join in? Received loud and clear.
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Rosebud Australia
On 17/07/2010 2:48 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Stephen,
> This message came through the Rovernet system and can be read on the West Coast of Canada.
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/16/10, stephen clark<stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>> From: stephen clark<stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
>> To: "Rovernet"<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 7:40 AM
>> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not
>> getting rovernet emails anymore - anyone
>> see this one?
>>
>> Stephen Clark
>> 1966 P5
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph (Michael)
>> <
>> jLewis at wsscwater.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Received here in Annapolis
>>>
>>> J. Michael Lewis
>>>
>>> 80 Rover SD1
>>> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
>>>
>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>>
>>> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
>>> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
>>> To: Rovernet
>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
>>>
>>> Just testing
>>>
>>> Lance La Certe
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
>>> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
>>>
>> go to this page. Be
>>
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
>>>
>> go to this page. Be
>>
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100716/49f543b5/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
>> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Fri Jul 16 19:13:21 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 17:13:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <4C40F19E.2020204@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Ray,
Feel free to jump in.
Some Internet Service Providers have changed their rules of engagement and have tarred the Rovernet as a "multiple recipient" SPAM source. AOL went so far as causing our system to be shut down by our web host.
Other email applications have set HTML or Rich Text as their default email format. Pretty........ I guess. However, as a security measure the Rovernet only accepts Plain Text messages (would this be the equivalent to an X-Ray scanner at an airport?).
Some people have been caught. Me included. There is only one way to work it out if you would like to remain connected to the Rovernet.
Make some changes and test or change and test again.
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Fri, 7/16/10, Ray Wilkins <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com> wrote:
> From: Ray Wilkins <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 4:56 PM
> Is this a private Test or can anyone
> join in? Received loud and clear.
>
> Ray Wilkins
> 1976 P6B
> Rosebud Australia
>
> On 17/07/2010 2:48 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> > Stephen,
> > This message came through the Rovernet system and can
> be read on the West Coast of Canada.
> >
> > Eric
> >
> > "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of
> Brian, 1979;
> > "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy
> Grail, 1975
> >
> >
> > --- On Fri, 7/16/10, stephen clark<stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>?
> wrote:
> >
> >? ?
> >> From: stephen clark<stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
> >> To: "Rovernet"<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> >> Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 7:40 AM
> >> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not
> >> getting rovernet emails anymore - anyone
> >> see this one?
> >>
> >> Stephen Clark
> >> 1966 P5
> >>
> >> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph
> (Michael)
> >> <
> >> jLewis at wsscwater.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>? ? ?
> >>> Received here in Annapolis
> >>>
> >>> J. Michael Lewis
> >>>
> >>> 80 Rover SD1
> >>> 74 Jensen Interceptor
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> >>>? ? ? ?
> >> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> >>? ? ?
> >>> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA
> CERTE
> >>> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
> >>> To: Rovernet
> >>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
> >>>
> >>> Just testing
> >>>
> >>> Lance La Certe
> >>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >>> URL:
> >>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
> >>> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
> >>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your
> settings
> >>>? ? ? ?
> >> go to this page. Be
> >>? ? ?
> >>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >>>
> >>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your
> settings
> >>>? ? ? ?
> >> go to this page. Be
> >>? ? ?
> >>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >>>
> >>>? ? ? ?
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> >> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100716/49f543b5/attachment.html>
> >> To unsubscribe from the list or change your
> settings go to
> >> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> >> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >>
> >>? ? ?
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> >
> >? ?
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Fri Jul 16 19:19:51 2010
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:49:51 +0930
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C40F727.9060301@ozemail.com.au>
On 7/17/2010 9:43 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Ray,
> Feel free to jump in.
SPLOOSH!!
Dave
South Oz
From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Fri Jul 16 19:21:48 2010
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 10:21:48 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C40F79C.6070703@bigpond.com>
Sorry Eric, I was being frivolous in a serious discussion. For my part,
Telstra in Australia have so far refrained from tampering with this but
who knows in the future.
Ray Wilkins
On 17/07/2010 10:13 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
> Ray,
> Feel free to jump in.
>
> Some Internet Service Providers have changed their rules of engagement and have tarred the Rovernet as a "multiple recipient" SPAM source. AOL went so far as causing our system to be shut down by our web host.
>
> Other email applications have set HTML or Rich Text as their default email format. Pretty........ I guess. However, as a security measure the Rovernet only accepts Plain Text messages (would this be the equivalent to an X-Ray scanner at an airport?).
>
> Some people have been caught. Me included. There is only one way to work it out if you would like to remain connected to the Rovernet.
>
> Make some changes and test or change and test again.
>
> Eric
>
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
> --- On Fri, 7/16/10, Ray Wilkins<raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com> wrote:
>
>
>> From: Ray Wilkins<raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
>> To: "Rovernet"<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 4:56 PM
>> Is this a private Test or can anyone
>> join in? Received loud and clear.
>>
>> Ray Wilkins
>> 1976 P6B
>> Rosebud Australia
>>
>> On 17/07/2010 2:48 AM, Eric Russell wrote:
>>
>>> Stephen,
>>> This message came through the Rovernet system and can
>>>
>> be read on the West Coast of Canada.
>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of
>>>
>> Brian, 1979;
>>
>>> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy
>>>
>> Grail, 1975
>>
>>>
>>> --- On Fri, 7/16/10, stephen clark<stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
>>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> From: stephen clark<stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Test
>>>> To: "Rovernet"<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>>>> Received: Friday, July 16, 2010, 7:40 AM
>>>> Stephen Clark in Pennsylvania - not
>>>> getting rovernet emails anymore - anyone
>>>> see this one?
>>>>
>>>> Stephen Clark
>>>> 1966 P5
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Lewis, Joseph
>>>>
>> (Michael)
>>
>>>> <
>>>> jLewis at wsscwater.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Received here in Annapolis
>>>>>
>>>>> J. Michael Lewis
>>>>>
>>>>> 80 Rover SD1
>>>>> 74 Jensen Interceptor
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA
>>>>>
>> CERTE
>>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:34 PM
>>>>> To: Rovernet
>>>>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
>>>>>
>>>>> Just testing
>>>>>
>>>>> Lance La Certe
>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>>> URL:
>>>>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/201
>>>>> 00715/c4feaba3/attachment.html>
>>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your
>>>>>
>> settings
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> go to this page. Be
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>>>
>>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your
>>>>>
>> settings
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> go to this page. Be
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100716/49f543b5/attachment.html>
>>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your
>>>>
>> settings go to
>>
>>>> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
>>>
>> go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
>> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From peterhut at activ8.net.au Fri Jul 16 19:45:15 2010
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 10:45:15 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Test
In-Reply-To: <217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <4C40F19E.2020204@bigpond.com>
<217225.98477.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ntu14696t02pnk49ak4rvko5v3ltue9hlt@4ax.com>
On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 17:13:21 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>Some Internet Service Providers have changed their rules of engagement and have tarred the Rovernet as a "multiple recipient" SPAM source. AOL went so far as causing our system to be shut down by our web host.
The trouble is it is so easy to hijack email addresses and spoof them
as originator of spam.
Yet, ISPs will take the easy way out and mark legitimate hosts as spam
without tracking the true source of the emails, usually some Russian
or Chinese server. But they will do little to stop the flow of real
spam, that is unrequested commercial advertising, often from large
legitimate companies.
Makes life difficult.
Cheers,
Peter H
From dmesmg at juno.com Sat Jul 17 08:56:59 2010
From: dmesmg at juno.com (dmesmg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:56:59 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Philly area British car shops
Message-ID: <20100717.095701.3420.0.dmesmg@juno.com>
Stephen,
There are several shops that specialize in British cars within maybe 1
hour of Philly--
Ragtops and Roadsters
TR Rescue
Motorcar Garage (Maple Shade, NJ). (www.Motorcar-Garage.com)
I had the pleasure of attending the British Motor Trade Assn winter
conference this past Feb where they toured R&R and TR Rescue. I was
impressed with both shops which featured a variety of British cars being
repaired (MG/Jags/TRs/Minis/Healeys/Ford Cortinas/ all the way up to
Bentleys).
Incidentally, the main reason I attended was to go to the Simeone
Foundation museum. Have any members visited here? It was an incredible
collection of historic European race cars.
Hope this helps. I can dig up contact details if you would like.
Best regards,
Dan
Rochester, NY
____________________________________________________________
Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat!
http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210
From rovercar at comcast.net Sat Jul 17 10:35:35 2010
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:35:35 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Philly area British car shops
In-Reply-To: <20100717.095701.3420.0.dmesmg@juno.com>
References: <20100717.095701.3420.0.dmesmg@juno.com>
Message-ID: <4C41CDC7.6080804@comcast.net>
Stephen,
I will call you later today. I'm sneaking a minute on my nephew's
computer. Mike at Ragtops and Roadsters owns a Rover 3500S that he put
quite a bit of work into, so he may have an interest in your Rover. Of
course, that may be exactly the shop where your P5 is languishing...
I have seen some very nice work that was done at R&R. Have no idea how
they are for cost or what their schedule is. http://www.ragtops.com/
Glen
On 07/17/2010 09:56 AM, dmesmg at juno.com wrote:
> Stephen,
> There are several shops that specialize in British cars within maybe 1
> hour of Philly--
> Ragtops and Roadsters
> TR Rescue
> Motorcar Garage (Maple Shade, NJ). (www.Motorcar-Garage.com)
>
> I had the pleasure of attending the British Motor Trade Assn winter
> conference this past Feb where they toured R&R and TR Rescue. I was
> impressed with both shops which featured a variety of British cars being
> repaired (MG/Jags/TRs/Minis/Healeys/Ford Cortinas/ all the way up to
> Bentleys).
>
> Incidentally, the main reason I attended was to go to the Simeone
> Foundation museum. Have any members visited here? It was an incredible
> collection of historic European race cars.
>
> Hope this helps. I can dig up contact details if you would like.
>
> Best regards,
> Dan
> Rochester, NY
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email with Video Mail& Video Chat!
> http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From irishrover1 at live.com Sun Jul 18 05:59:28 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 08:59:28 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Change of Email Address
Message-ID: <COL111-W49760340BDFB9214ED052887BE0@phx.gbl>
Hi Folks
Please note my new email address
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
_________________________________________________________________
Learn more ways to connect with your buddies now
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734388
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From paterson.dave at sympatico.ca Sun Jul 18 14:55:05 2010
From: paterson.dave at sympatico.ca (DAVID PATERSON)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 15:55:05 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] White Rover P6 in Guelph
Message-ID: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl>
I have been told by She-Who-Must-be-Obeyed that I have to get rid of my 1968 P6 2000 automatic. It has been sitting in our garage since 2002, when an electrical fault prevented it from starting. I haven?t had the time nor the electrical skills to fix it and there is nobody in the area who will work on British vehicles. I bought the car in 1995 in Victoria B.C. and drove it back to Guelph, Ontario. In 1999 it was converted to twin carbs with a noticeable improvement in power. The car is white with red interior. The body is sound and in good shape. The leather is in good condition (I?ve treated it every year) with the exception of the tops of the rear seats, which have been sun-damaged and I have covered with red vinyl. The tires are like new. I?ve been asked to submit it in a local auction of antique cars but I thought that I would first see if there is any interest among Rover enthusiasts.
Dave Paterson
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Tue Jul 20 02:25:05 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 09:25:05 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 racing / You Tube clips
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMOT3jBxdLA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwUFpBc-VtM
Also see my site:
http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/VisitorGallery/BygoneRacer/Bygone_racer.htm
Rudiger
From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Tue Jul 20 02:42:35 2010
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 17:42:35 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 racing / You Tube clips
In-Reply-To: <90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl>
<90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw>
Message-ID: <4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com>
Thanks Rudiger. Did anyone notice in the second clip that the letters on
the rear of the P6B in front had been rearranged to spell 'REVOR'?
Intentional? or just a dyslectic owner?
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Rosebud, Australia
On 20/07/2010 5:25 PM, RoverP6 at gmx.de wrote:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMOT3jBxdLA
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwUFpBc-VtM
>
>
> Also see my site:
> http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/VisitorGallery/BygoneRacer/Bygone_racer.htm
>
>
> Rudiger
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Tue Jul 20 02:51:34 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 09:51:34 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: P6 racing / You Tube clips
In-Reply-To: <4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw>
<4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRtymuRMZiE&NR=1
Tyhis is also very interesting, on the same page...
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Ray Wilkins
Inviato: marted? 20 luglio 2010 9.43
A: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] P6 racing / You Tube clips
Thanks Rudiger. Did anyone notice in the second clip that the letters on the rear of the P6B in front had been rearranged to spell 'REVOR'?
Intentional? or just a dyslectic owner?
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Rosebud, Australia
On 20/07/2010 5:25 PM, RoverP6 at gmx.de wrote:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMOT3jBxdLA
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwUFpBc-VtM
>
>
> Also see my site:
> http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/VisitorGallery/BygoneRacer/Bygone_racer.
> htm
>
>
> Rudiger
>
>
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> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Tue Jul 20 02:54:18 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 09:54:18 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: P6 racing / You Tube clips
In-Reply-To: <90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl>
<90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE01E@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Rudiger, in the second one they speak about a "broken anti rollbar on the end of the porsche".
Do yuo know what has happened?
Thanks and regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
Inviato: marted? 20 luglio 2010 9.25
A: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] P6 racing / You Tube clips
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMOT3jBxdLA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwUFpBc-VtM
Also see my site:
http://www.roverp6.info/Fotos/VisitorGallery/BygoneRacer/Bygone_racer.htm
Rudiger
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From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Tue Jul 20 03:11:46 2010
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (roger matheson)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 18:11:46 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
References: <4C392E51.7040602@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <005501cb27e3$32920180$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
Hi Ray,
I have been having some problems with lock up but only to cause severe brake
drag. I changed the servo with a spare on the assumption that it was the
actuating piston that was not working properly. It was fine for a week and
then the problem returned. I have now changed the master cylinder and servo
with another spare and so far so good. However what I found was perhaps the
problem. When I removed the reservoir container to get the master out I
discovered a large amount of oily residue gunk under the plastic mesh
screen.that is pressed into the base of the reservoire. Not having this
car for long I had never investigated before. Cleaned it all out and
flushed the system bleading out through the outlet of the booster. I wonder
if this type of problem is oily dirt collecting under the filter mesh where
it cannot be seen, therby impairing the operation of the booster and the
master. Perhaps this means that we need to remove the reservoire for
cleaning when we replace the fluid and that we flush the booster when we
clean the actuating piston. Typically we are not the original owners and we
can't be certain what was done in the past. In my case I suspect that dirty
fluid was used which gradually worked its way though the fine mesh of the
screen. I would assume that such problems would interfere with the smooth
operation of the brake pedal which you describe. Trust that my horrific
discovery may assist you Let me know how you go.
Cheers Roger from warmer but rainy NSW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wilkins" <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: "The original Rovernet ..." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 12:37 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Brake Lockup
> Some help please. I am sure there are some of you out there that have a
> good working knowledge of the braking system on the P6B and I am desparate
> for some good advise. Following some earlier posts about brake lockup I
> had an external look at the servo with no obvious faults. I have a spare
> servo that has lain unused for 7 years or so that I took apart following
> the repair manual to see how it worked as I wasn't really sure what I was
> looking for apart from the obvious like a split seal etc. I was alerted to
> the non-return valve but again I am not sure what to look for. The initial
> problem was a four wheel brake solid lockup that was only cured when fluid
> was released via one of the front bleed screws.
>
> 1. Having got the car back in the garage, I can start her but when the
> brake pedal is pushed it is very stiff and there is a dull scraping sound
> then the pedal 'pops' back. The pedal only travels 60cms or so.
>
> 2. Most people who have responded feel that the problem lies with the
> servo. If I take this out and pull it apart, what should I be looking for
> in terms of what may be causing the problem? With the non-return valve,
> should I be able to blow through both ways or neither? (If I can blow both
> ways it wouldn't be a non-return valve would it!) Can it be taken apart?
> Can it be cleaned?
>
> If anyone who has prior knowledge with these units or has any other advise
> I would be most grateful.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray Wilkins
> 1976 P6B
> Rosebud, Australia
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From Andrew_Holland at amp.com.au Tue Jul 20 07:02:06 2010
From: Andrew_Holland at amp.com.au (Andrew_Holland at amp.com.au)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 22:02:06 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Andrew Holland is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OFAABAC192.D4640FCD-ONCA257766.00421C53-CA257766.00421C53@amp.com.au>
I will be out of the office starting 20/07/2010 and will not return until
21/07/2010.
I will respond to your message when I return.
This email message and any accompanying attachments may contain information that is confidential and is subject to legal privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, do not read, use, disseminate, distribute or copy this message or attachments. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete this message. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender expressly, and with authority, states them to be the views of AMP. Before opening any attachments, please check them for viruses and defects.
From roverfreak619 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 20 19:50:20 2010
From: roverfreak619 at yahoo.com (Rover freak)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 17:50:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] p6 Sc2000 Rover for sale
Message-ID: <931855.61606.qm@web111306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
I have a 1966 P6 Rover with (Manual) 4cyl?,4 speed SC 2000 for sell on
craigslist, iam list in the San Diego ,California .??? here is the link
?http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/1836536108.html
Nelson O'R
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From roverfreak619 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 20 20:00:42 2010
From: roverfreak619 at yahoo.com (Rover freak)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 18:00:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] putting a Rover V8 into a 105 R?
Message-ID: <290844.19284.qm@web111315.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
I have a 105 R Rover with a bad engine, i have thought about putting a Rover V8
engine and a borg Warner transmission into my 105 R. the question is has anyone
have ever put a V8 into a P4 rover ,,? and if so i like to know about it,
because iam really thinking about doing this project.? Also i have a P6 Rover
Sc2000 for sale, i have put an manual transmission in it, works great, it listed
on craigslist.? here's the
link.http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/1836536108.html
?
thanks, Nelson O'Riley
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Tue Jul 20 20:48:42 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:48:42 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
Message-ID: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and take my foot off the accelerator, I
immediately get a sound like small rocks striking a metal plate. The
sound goes away if I push in the clutch.
I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild, and
tonight was it's first highway run as today I replaced the tires that
have been on the car since about 1986.
The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As mentioned in
earlier posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5 compression ration and
require 94 "octane" fuel.
From what I have been able to find re: American to British octane
ratings, a North American pump rating of the premium 91 "octane" fuel
I have been using, should be equal to a British octane rating of 95.
So this should be an adequate fuel for this engine.
The car was running well until last fill up. Now it stutters at idle
until warm then idle is more lumpy than it has been.
Along with a lead replacement additive, I did add some octane boost to
the last tank of fuel, but that should delay detonation and prevent
this sound more than cause it should'nt it?
As I had not had the car up to these speeds previously, I can't
comment on if these sounds occurred before the last fill up. Bad gas?
Wrong fuel in stations underground tanks?
Any ideas guys?
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Jul 20 21:58:53 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:58:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
In-Reply-To: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <459747.12421.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Roy,
Pinging (or pinking) was experienced by me on acceleration, especially on a hill. I didn't have a pinging experience under the conditions you describe (foot off accelerator). Is this a sound coming through the exhaust system?
I ran 2 cars with different 2200 modified engines. In the early days with the club, I had a 2000 TC and another TC with a newly rebored version with the 2200 engine. The 2000 TC usually created a pinking noise coming up our hill. As I moved the timing closer to TDC with the 2200 Rover, I eliminated the pinging. I think it was somewhere near 2.5 to 3 degrees.
Your situation is certainly puzzling.
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Tue, 7/20/10, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Received: Tuesday, July 20, 2010, 6:48 PM
> When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and
> take my foot off the accelerator, I immediately get a sound
> like small rocks striking a metal plate. The sound goes away
> if I push in the clutch.
> I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild,
> and tonight was it's first highway run as today I replaced
> the tires that have been on the car since about 1986.
> The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As
> mentioned in earlier posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5
> compression ration and require 94 "octane" fuel.
> From what I have been able to find re: American to British
> octane ratings, a North American pump rating of the premium
> 91 "octane" fuel I have been using, should be equal to a
> British octane rating of 95. So this should be an adequate
> fuel for this engine.
> The car was running well until last fill up. Now it
> stutters at idle until warm then idle is more lumpy than it
> has been.
> Along with a lead replacement additive, I did add some
> octane boost to the last tank of fuel, but that should delay
> detonation and prevent this sound more than cause it
> should'nt it?
> As I had not had the car up to these speeds previously, I
> can't comment on if these sounds occurred before the last
> fill up. Bad gas? Wrong fuel in stations underground tanks?
> Any ideas guys?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100720/41b456c5/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
From galmpton at shaw.ca Tue Jul 20 22:12:13 2010
From: galmpton at shaw.ca (galmpton)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 20:12:13 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
References: <459747.12421.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CF7EBEE37E2B43199CE559B38C346F9C@user789ad50f2d>
Hi,
Just a long shot, but pinging is associated with advanced timing as well as
load, is your vacuum advance hooked up properly to your carb and not the
intake manifold?
Al Gunnarson
SD1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
> Roy,
> Pinging (or pinking) was experienced by me on acceleration, especially on
> a hill. I didn't have a pinging experience under the conditions you
> describe (foot off accelerator). Is this a sound coming through the
> exhaust system?
>
> I ran 2 cars with different 2200 modified engines. In the early days with
> the club, I had a 2000 TC and another TC with a newly rebored version with
> the 2200 engine. The 2000 TC usually created a pinking noise coming up our
> hill. As I moved the timing closer to TDC with the 2200 Rover, I
> eliminated the pinging. I think it was somewhere near 2.5 to 3 degrees.
>
> Your situation is certainly puzzling.
>
> Eric
>
> "Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
> "I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
>
>
> --- On Tue, 7/20/10, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
>> Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Received: Tuesday, July 20, 2010, 6:48 PM
>> When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and
>> take my foot off the accelerator, I immediately get a sound
>> like small rocks striking a metal plate. The sound goes away
>> if I push in the clutch.
>> I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild,
>> and tonight was it's first highway run as today I replaced
>> the tires that have been on the car since about 1986.
>> The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As
>> mentioned in earlier posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5
>> compression ration and require 94 "octane" fuel.
>> From what I have been able to find re: American to British
>> octane ratings, a North American pump rating of the premium
>> 91 "octane" fuel I have been using, should be equal to a
>> British octane rating of 95. So this should be an adequate
>> fuel for this engine.
>> The car was running well until last fill up. Now it
>> stutters at idle until warm then idle is more lumpy than it
>> has been.
>> Along with a lead replacement additive, I did add some
>> octane boost to the last tank of fuel, but that should delay
>> detonation and prevent this sound more than cause it
>> should'nt it?
>> As I had not had the car up to these speeds previously, I
>> can't comment on if these sounds occurred before the last
>> fill up. Bad gas? Wrong fuel in stations underground tanks?
>> Any ideas guys?
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100720/41b456c5/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
>> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Jul 20 22:24:41 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 13:24:41 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
In-Reply-To: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
References: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <108E55292C684F68AED92600CD0C697F@Vista>
Check engine mounts, and if they are collapsed maybe generator is touching
front crossmember.
It won't be fuel.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 11:48 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
> When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and take my foot off the accelerator, I
> immediately get a sound like small rocks striking a metal plate. The
> sound goes away if I push in the clutch.
> I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild, and tonight
> was it's first highway run as today I replaced the tires that have been
> on the car since about 1986.
> The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As mentioned in
> earlier posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5 compression ration and
> require 94 "octane" fuel.
> From what I have been able to find re: American to British octane
> ratings, a North American pump rating of the premium 91 "octane" fuel I
> have been using, should be equal to a British octane rating of 95. So
> this should be an adequate fuel for this engine.
> The car was running well until last fill up. Now it stutters at idle
> until warm then idle is more lumpy than it has been.
> Along with a lead replacement additive, I did add some octane boost to
> the last tank of fuel, but that should delay detonation and prevent this
> sound more than cause it should'nt it?
> As I had not had the car up to these speeds previously, I can't comment
> on if these sounds occurred before the last fill up. Bad gas? Wrong fuel
> in stations underground tanks?
> Any ideas guys?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100720/41b456c5/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Tue Jul 20 22:39:20 2010
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 20:39:20 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
In-Reply-To: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
References: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimUwzrqSDoUcdOHCD4DCQrfTVzwI8W5sk-390o6@mail.gmail.com>
Are you sure it's an engine noise? If I get funny crinkly crumbly
noises that come or go away when I put the clutch in or out my first
thought is release bearing or there's a bushing on the input side of
the gearbox that is on it's way out - do you get the same noises under
the same condtions at different speeds or in different gears?
It's very possible that you have two things going on at the same time.
Try checking the engine tuning again and see if that sorts out the
uneven tickover, then repeat the test and see if the noise has gone.
Aidrian
On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 6:48 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and take my foot off the accelerator, I
> immediately get a sound like small rocks striking a metal plate. The sound
> goes away if I push in the clutch.
> I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild, and tonight was
> it's first highway run as today I replaced the tires that have been on the
> car since about 1986.
> The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As mentioned in earlier
> posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5 compression ration and require 94
> "octane" fuel.
From james.moison at gmail.com Tue Jul 20 23:42:04 2010
From: james.moison at gmail.com (james moison)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 22:42:04 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
In-Reply-To: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
References: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikgKNr4aBwpdmjFch44Zi6K1W1L_pdDaSFt7XH9@mail.gmail.com>
You won't have detonation without throttle. A quick metallic clinking upon
lifting sounds more like u-joint noise to me. That would be the point of
load changing on the drive train.
On Tue, Jul 20, 2010 at 7:48 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>wrote:
> When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and take my foot off the accelerator, I
> immediately get a sound like small rocks striking a metal plate. The sound
> goes away if I push in the clutch.
> I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild, and tonight was
> it's first highway run as today I replaced the tires that have been on the
> car since about 1986.
> The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As mentioned in earlier
> posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5 compression ration and require 94
> "octane" fuel.
> From what I have been able to find re: American to British octane ratings,
> a North American pump rating of the premium 91 "octane" fuel I have been
> using, should be equal to a British octane rating of 95. So this should be
> an adequate fuel for this engine.
> The car was running well until last fill up. Now it stutters at idle until
> warm then idle is more lumpy than it has been.
> Along with a lead replacement additive, I did add some octane boost to the
> last tank of fuel, but that should delay detonation and prevent this sound
> more than cause it should'nt it?
> As I had not had the car up to these speeds previously, I can't comment on
> if these sounds occurred before the last fill up. Bad gas? Wrong fuel in
> stations underground tanks?
> Any ideas guys?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100720/41b456c5/attachment.html
> >
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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>
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From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Wed Jul 21 04:39:16 2010
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (roger matheson)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 19:39:16 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
References: <1F97404C-814D-4125-B618-57EE83886501@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <004601cb28b8$96488660$0100000a@owner1b4c6f2cf>
Hi Roy,
Ahh! you have the master minds of Rover world in full gear.
If the noise occurs when you take your foot off the accelerator, then its
is not pinking or pre detination. Previous suggestions have included drive
shafts which can become noisy as the drive line load shifts from aceleration
to deceleration. I wonder whether this is cam chain noise. When the engine
was rebuilt, was the valve chain slack ajusted on the front of the cam
shaft, was the chain tensioner re assembled correctly, were the cam chain
guides in good condition, were the cam chains and the sprockets themselves
in good condition etc etc. When you push the clutch, presumably the engine
slows relatively quickly to idle when slack in the chain assembly is not
going to make a noise.
Sounds like you have got a load of crook fuel. Perhaps empty the tank and
re fill.
I wonder whether there is a problem in the clutch plate which has radial
springs to aborb the shock on starting the clutch engagement. Under load
things can be held in place, but release the load and things can rattle.
Your description of the sound stopping when you push the clutch points in
this direction.
The slack in the valve chain can be checked with the tappet cover removed
which is not major surgery. Let us know how you go
Cheers from Oz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 11:48 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
> When I'm travelling at 90 kmh and take my foot off the accelerator, I
> immediately get a sound like small rocks striking a metal plate. The
> sound goes away if I push in the clutch.
> I have only put 190 miles on the engine since it's rebuild, and tonight
> was it's first highway run as today I replaced the tires that have been
> on the car since about 1986.
> The car is a 2000 TC which was bored out to 2200cc. As mentioned in
> earlier posts here, this should yield a 9 - 9.5 compression ration and
> require 94 "octane" fuel.
> From what I have been able to find re: American to British octane
> ratings, a North American pump rating of the premium 91 "octane" fuel I
> have been using, should be equal to a British octane rating of 95. So
> this should be an adequate fuel for this engine.
> The car was running well until last fill up. Now it stutters at idle
> until warm then idle is more lumpy than it has been.
> Along with a lead replacement additive, I did add some octane boost to
> the last tank of fuel, but that should delay detonation and prevent this
> sound more than cause it should'nt it?
> As I had not had the car up to these speeds previously, I can't comment
> on if these sounds occurred before the last fill up. Bad gas? Wrong fuel
> in stations underground tanks?
> Any ideas guys?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100720/41b456c5/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Wed Jul 21 13:19:02 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 12:19:02 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Pinging?
Message-ID: <891C44E3-4FBF-4F66-A8CF-B0971D4549BF@telusplanet.net>
Thanks for all the input guys.
Here's where were at.
Al: I checked the vacuum line and it is attached as it should be.
PVS: I hope it's not the engine mounts as I supplied the engine shop
with brand new ones from Ruth at All British Cars. I couldn't see any
contact of generator to front crossmember.
Aidrian; Yeah, it is a weird kind of gravelly, crinkly noise. I can
hear it in third and fourth gears when letting off the gas. How else
can I check the release bearing or input shaft bushing?
James: when the car was at the restoration shop one of the things they
were to check were all the u-joints. No mention was made of them. I
will have the car up on a lift next week to get my gear lever top
mount bolts tightened. Can't seem to squeeze myself under the car far
enough.... I will ask the mechanic to check the driveline while he's
under there.
Roger: The engine shop was very thorough when rebuilding the engine,
and asked for parts that looked just fine to me. They were very "anal"
when it came to the timing chains. I hear the sound close to the dash
area. would timing chain rattle be heard here?
Eric: it could very well be an exhaust issue; I have heard a bit of a
blow aft of the manifold since the car has been back on the road. The
sound may mean it's getting worse. On a quick test drive this am by
myself, devoid of the distractions of passengers, I can hear the sound
when driving at all times, not just acceleration, and it increases in
amount when taking foot off accelerator. Still resolves with clutch
depressed. The manifold itself was declared free of holes by the
restoration shop, so I am sure fairly its not in this section. That
doesn't rule out connection to the head though. The rest of the pipes
are starting to get somewhat corroded so I will work on hanging the
new pieces that came with the car. Mild steel unfortunately, but will
do for now.
I'll let you know what I find.
If anyone can think of anything else it could be, please let me know.
Roy
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From RoverP6 at gmx.de Thu Jul 22 03:30:14 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 10:30:14 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw>
http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQAdIdZ201924796
Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Thu Jul 22 03:39:50 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 10:39:50 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw>
Message-ID: <060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw>
also this one - known?:
http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/150448384143--rare-1970-rover-3500s-saloon-england/detailse.html
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
-----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
An: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 10:30
Betreff: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
> http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQAdIdZ201924796
>
> Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure
> to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Thu Jul 22 04:08:50 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:08:50 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 2000 TC / Mexico
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw>
<060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw>
Message-ID: <3A04077C73F64BDBAB58C1FE3B80FB5A@rw>
old report:
http://www.offroadexperience.com/wcb/2000tc1.htm
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Thu Jul 22 04:50:38 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:50:38 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
In-Reply-To: <060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw>
<060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Where is this second car located?
I could not understand reading the descriprion.
He says that 15 - 20 k$ are needed for a complete restoration, in this case could be too much.
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
Inviato: gioved? 22 luglio 2010 10.40
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
also this one - known?:
http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/150448384143--rare-1970-rover-3500s-saloon-england/detailse.html
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
-----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
An: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 10:30
Betreff: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
> http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQAdIdZ201924796
>
> Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure
> to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Thu Jul 22 06:17:44 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:17:44 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 V8 - Tokyo
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw><060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <BF7AA16A803E4751857EA050E53604EC@rw>
Very rare in Japan, I guess
http://media.photobucket.com/image/rover%203500/kedelbach/2008%2005%20Japan%20trip%201/RoverV8.jpg?o=170
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Thu Jul 22 06:32:38 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:32:38 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] "modified" P6
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw><060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<BF7AA16A803E4751857EA050E53604EC@rw>
Message-ID: <450B017BCEC743A18337C8AB56BCA73F@rw>
http://s980.photobucket.com/albums/ae286/Koolinz/Rover%20P6%20Cars/?action=view¤t=Reaggae.jpg
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From lewill at ctcweb.net Thu Jul 22 07:59:17 2010
From: lewill at ctcweb.net (larry)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 06:59:17 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 V8 - Tokyo
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw><060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<BF7AA16A803E4751857EA050E53604EC@rw>
Message-ID: <006901cb299d$b2a7b250$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
Rudiger, The p-6 is indeed rare in Japan. I spent some time in Japan this
spring and did see a p-6B in Kamakura. The license plate on the vehicle in
the photo indicates that is registered in Shinagawa, which is a political
area in Tokyo. Regards, Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 5:17 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 V8 - Tokyo
> Very rare in Japan, I guess
>
> http://media.photobucket.com/image/rover%203500/kedelbach/2008%2005%20Japan%20trip%201/RoverV8.jpg?o=170
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From dchantler at comcast.net Thu Jul 22 08:54:25 2010
From: dchantler at comcast.net (Derek Chantler)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 06:54:25 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw> <060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <002a01cb29a5$65dbd700$31938500$@net>
Hi guys,
I just joined the list and what do I find? A thread discussing the shiny
new (well OK not shiny or new really) 3500s that I just purchased.
The burned grey one with the Washington plates is now happily sitting in my
driveway here in Northern California (San Francisco Bay Area). I don?t know
where the person who quoted 15-20k got their numbers from, it doesn?t seem
to be too bad to me. If anyone is interested I have a bunch of photos
online at http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x256/lothannon/Rover/.
This is my first NADA P6b but I owned several back in Perth, Western
Australia before I moved out here.
This one has been christened "Angie". She obviously needs new paint work
and needs some work on the mechanics (my brakes are stuck on at the moment)
but she'll be nice one day.
I'm not a club member yet but I intend to send in the papers in the near
future. Hopefully its Ok that I crashed this list a little early :)
Derek
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:51 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
Where is this second car located?
I could not understand reading the descriprion.
He says that 15 - 20 k$ are needed for a complete restoration, in this case
could be too much.
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
Inviato: gioved? 22 luglio 2010 10.40
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
also this one - known?:
http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/150448384143--rare-1970-rover-3500s-salo
on-england/detailse.html
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
-----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
An: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 10:30
Betreff: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQ
AdIdZ201924796
>
> Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure
> to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Thu Jul 22 14:15:47 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:15:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
In-Reply-To: <002a01cb29a5$65dbd700$31938500$@net>
Message-ID: <277145.13595.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Derek,
Very interesting post you made.
Rover ex-Wshington State..... I wonder if I know/knew the owner?
You're from Perth. I wonder if you know one of the two people I know there?
Interested in joing the Rover Car CLub of Canada?
(Practically the RCCC of Canada, the U.S.A., the UK. New Zealand, and Trinidad ;-)
http://www.roverclub.ca/RCCCjoin.htm
All the best,
Eric Russell
Webmaster, Rovernet Admin
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Thu, 7/22/10, Derek Chantler <dchantler at comcast.net> wrote:
> From: Derek Chantler <dchantler at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
> To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Received: Thursday, July 22, 2010, 6:54 AM
> Hi guys,
>
> I just joined the list and what do I find?? A thread
> discussing the shiny
> new (well OK not shiny or new really) 3500s that I just
> purchased.
>
> The burned grey one with the Washington plates is now
> happily sitting in my
> driveway here in Northern California (San Francisco Bay
> Area).? I don?t know
> where the person who quoted 15-20k got their numbers from,
> it doesn?t seem
> to be too bad to me.? If anyone is interested I have a
> bunch of photos
> online at http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x256/lothannon/Rover/.
>
> This is my first NADA P6b but I owned several back in
> Perth, Western
> Australia before I moved out here.
>
> This one has been christened "Angie".? She obviously
> needs new paint work
> and needs some work on the mechanics (my brakes are stuck
> on at the moment)
> but she'll be nice one day.
>
> I'm not a club member yet but I intend to send in the
> papers in the near
> future.? Hopefully its Ok that I crashed this list a
> little early :)
>
> Derek
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> Behalf Of gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:51 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
>
> Where is this second car located?
> I could not understand reading the descriprion.
> He says that 15 - 20 k$ are needed for a complete
> restoration, in this case
> could be too much.
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> Per
> conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
> Inviato: gioved? 22 luglio 2010 10.40
> A: Rovernet
> Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
> also this one - known?:
>
> http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/150448384143--rare-1970-rover-3500s-salo
> on-england/detailse.html
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
> An: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 10:30
> Betreff: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
> >
> >
> http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQ
> AdIdZ201924796
> >
> > Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
> >
> >
> > Rudiger
> > www.RoverP6.info
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> go to this page. Be
> sure
> > to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From eightoone at comcast.net Thu Jul 22 14:46:59 2010
From: eightoone at comcast.net (eightoone at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:46:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
In-Reply-To: <277145.13595.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1838250306.282909.1279828019542.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Derek, Congrats on the purchase. Looks like it will be a good car. As for the $15-20K to bring it back; it isn't THAT far-fetched. It depends on to what standard you want the car to be; if you are doing ALL the work yourself; and how many "little bits" need replacement. Just 'price' some of these "little bits" nowadays...it may surprise you. As for me I've got a 1970 3500S (3rd. owner/62K miles/I've owned for 33yrs.) It was is "extremely" great and original shape.
I decided it needed to be "brought back to "NOS" standards [w/mods] and after 3yrs. I'm into it over $11K...
and the interior needs a re-do and the paint could be be done (never touched)...So $2K on interior; $5K on paint
...and your 'there'...Ed K.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:15:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: ?Canadian US-3500 S
Derek,
Very interesting post you made.
Rover ex-Wshington State..... I wonder if I know/knew the owner?
You're from Perth. I wonder if you know one of the two people I know there?
Interested in joing the Rover Car CLub of Canada?
(Practically the RCCC of Canada, the U.S.A., the UK. New Zealand, and Trinidad ?;-)
http://www.roverclub.ca/RCCCjoin.htm
All the best,
Eric Russell
Webmaster, Rovernet Admin
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Thu, 7/22/10, Derek Chantler <dchantler at comcast.net> wrote:
> From: Derek Chantler <dchantler at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: ?Canadian US-3500 S
> To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Received: Thursday, July 22, 2010, 6:54 AM
> Hi guys,
>
> I just joined the list and what do I find?? A thread
> discussing the shiny
> new (well OK not shiny or new really) 3500s that I just
> purchased.
>
> The burned grey one with the Washington plates is now
> happily sitting in my
> driveway here in Northern California (San Francisco Bay
> Area).? I don?t know
> where the person who quoted 15-20k got their numbers from,
> it doesn?t seem
> to be too bad to me.? If anyone is interested I have a
> bunch of photos
> online at http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x256/lothannon/Rover/.
>
> This is my first NADA P6b but I owned several back in
> Perth, Western
> Australia before I moved out here.
>
> This one has been christened "Angie".? She obviously
> needs new paint work
> and needs some work on the mechanics (my brakes are stuck
> on at the moment)
> but she'll be nice one day.
>
> I'm not a club member yet but I intend to send in the
> papers in the near
> future.? Hopefully its Ok that I crashed this list a
> little early :)
>
> Derek
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> Behalf Of gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:51 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
>
> Where is this second car located?
> I could not understand reading the descriprion.
> He says that 15 - 20 k$ are needed for a complete
> restoration, in this case
> could be too much.
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> Per
> conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
> Inviato: gioved? 22 luglio 2010 10.40
> A: Rovernet
> Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
> also this one - known?:
>
> http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/150448384143--rare-1970-rover-3500s-salo
> on-england/detailse.html
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
> An: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 10:30
> Betreff: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
> >
> >
> http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQ
> AdIdZ201924796
> >
> > Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
> >
> >
> > Rudiger
> > www.RoverP6.info
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> go to this page. Be
> sure
> > to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk Thu Jul 22 15:23:53 2010
From: p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk (p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:23:53 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
References: <1838250306.282909.1279828019542.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39E4294578D94C638A056BC53A348008@SN037535920331>
Hi Derek
We had to chuckle when we saw a car called 'Angie'
Because my wife (& chairman of the RP6C) is also named 'Angie' and she has
her own P6 called 'The General'
Speak Soon
Warmest regards
Mark
Mark Gray
Editor, Driving Force
The Rover P6 Club
www.p6club.com
editor at p6club.com
Mobile 078 333 48030
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Thu Jul 22 18:16:00 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 16:16:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Albert's Rovers
Message-ID: <558766.50377.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Here is a picture of Albert's two Rovers at a recent San Francisco Concours show:
(TinyURL version:)
http://tinyurl.com/24djzus
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
From peterhut at activ8.net.au Thu Jul 22 18:19:06 2010
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter Huttemeier)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 09:19:06 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 V8 - Tokyo
In-Reply-To: <006901cb299d$b2a7b250$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw><060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<BF7AA16A803E4751857EA050E53604EC@rw>
<006901cb299d$b2a7b250$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
Message-ID: <5dih46hejffhmu7cp57j85o0fle50cq2il@4ax.com>
On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 06:59:17 -0600, you wrote:
>Rudiger, The p-6 is indeed rare in Japan. I spent some time in Japan this
>spring and did see a p-6B in Kamakura. The license plate on the vehicle in
>the photo indicates that is registered in Shinagawa, which is a political
>area in Tokyo. Regards, Larry
I lived in Japan during the 80's and Rover Sedans were certainly rare
on the ground.
Towards the end of its life the "old" Mini was still being sold in
Japan under the Rover brand name.
MG Rover did set up a sales organisation for selling the Rover 75, but
I am not sure how many were actually sold.
There are a number of privately imported SD1 Vitesses' being driven by
enthusiasts.
I wonder if the P6 you saw was one of the ones being imported from
Australia. There is (or was) a Japanese fellow in Sydney who was the
agent for a classic car importer in Tokyo who brings in about 1 to 2
refurbished P6Bs a year.
Or at least they did, I have lost contact with them in recent years, I
was doing a bit of spotting for them at one stage.
BTW Shinagawa is just a Ward (suburb) of Tokyo. It has the major motor
vehicle registration centre for Tokyo, hence most of the licence
plates issued in Tokyo carry the name of the Shinagawa issuing office.
Cheers,
Peter H
From den at aachenkennels.com Thu Jul 22 18:46:42 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 07:46:42 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
References: <277145.13595.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA4AE@Server.adoptsec.local>
Hello Derek,
Welcome to the group. Just to let you know I'm the vice president of the rover club here in Perth. If you would like to catch up with some old mates send an email to den at aachenkennels.com and I'll pass on your details at the next meeting.
Den Gallacher.
> From: Derek Chantler <dchantler at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
> To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Received: Thursday, July 22, 2010, 6:54 AM
> Hi guys,
>
> I just joined the list and what do I find?? A thread
> discussing the shiny
> new (well OK not shiny or new really) 3500s that I just
> purchased.
>
> The burned grey one with the Washington plates is now
> happily sitting in my
> driveway here in Northern California (San Francisco Bay
> Area).? I don?t know
> where the person who quoted 15-20k got their numbers from,
> it doesn?t seem
> to be too bad to me.? If anyone is interested I have a
> bunch of photos
> online at http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x256/lothannon/Rover/.
>
> This is my first NADA P6b but I owned several back in
> Perth, Western
> Australia before I moved out here.
>
> This one has been christened "Angie".? She obviously
> needs new paint work
> and needs some work on the mechanics (my brakes are stuck
> on at the moment)
> but she'll be nice one day.
>
> I'm not a club member yet but I intend to send in the
> papers in the near
> future.? Hopefully its Ok that I crashed this list a
> little early :)
>
> Derek
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On
> Behalf Of gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:51 AM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Canadian US-3500 S
>
> Where is this second car located?
> I could not understand reading the descriprion.
> He says that 15 - 20 k$ are needed for a complete
> restoration, in this case
> could be too much.
>
> Best regards, GR.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> Per
> conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
> Inviato: gioved? 22 luglio 2010 10.40
> A: Rovernet
> Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
> also this one - known?:
>
> http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/150448384143--rare-1970-rover-3500s-salo
> on-england/detailse.html
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
> An: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 10:30
> Betreff: [Rovernet ] Canadian US-3500 S
>
>
> >
> >
> http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1970-rover-3500S-W0QQ
> AdIdZ201924796
> >
> > Is this P6 known / owner on Rovernet ?
> >
> >
> > Rudiger
> > www.RoverP6.info
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings
> go to this page. Be
> sure
> > to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Jul 23 11:16:32 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 18:16:32 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Barn sell , 13 classic at a cheap price for the lot
In-Reply-To: <5dih46hejffhmu7cp57j85o0fle50cq2il@4ax.com>
References: <SNT139-w13189BBE9D8D90FCFFE37189BE0@phx.gbl><90B1854B2B1F45DAA6C4DAFE0E581FFF@rw><4C45536B.3080403@bigpond.com><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B95961FE016@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><6B34B80EDD1A4ED6A20FD8EC63F2E5C6@rw><060471DC1DF04D4FB07210A8A1EBD854@rw><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622BBE9@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel><BF7AA16A803E4751857EA050E53604EC@rw><006901cb299d$b2a7b250$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
<5dih46hejffhmu7cp57j85o0fle50cq2il@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C067@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BARN-FULL-13-CLASSIC-SPORTS-CARS-SALE-11-995-/120595769529?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1c141168b9
BARN FULL OF 13 CLASSIC / SPORTS CARS FOR SALE ,?11,995
Molto interessanti la mecedes, la rover p4 e la Bmw 320 i Cabrio Baur.
HAVING BEEN SUCCESSFUL SELLING ONE BARN FULL OF CARS A FEW MONTHS AGO I THOUGHT I WOULD TRY ANOTHER BARN FULL
13 CARS IN TOTAL AS FOLLOWS
1. 1936 AUSTIN 12 / 6 OPEN ROAD TOURER FOR RESTORATION WITH V5, VERY RARE CAR, 90 % COMPLETE,NEEDS ENGINE REBUILD (PARTLY STRIPPED )
2. 1953 SINGER ROADSTER 4 AD WITH V5 (REG NO LCR 707 ) FOR RESTORATION APPROX 90 % COMPLETE,ENGINE STRIPPED,VERY RARE CAR
3.1986 BMW 320 BAUR CONVERTIBLE,SOLID CAR,STARTS AND DRIVES NICE,V5
4. P REG FIAT PUNTO 90ELX CABRIOLET,POWER HOOD,STARTS DRIVES/MOT'D
5. 1989 RANGE ROVER V8,MANUAL GEARBOX,GAS CONVERSION WITH TANKS UNDERNEATH,NEW TAIL GATES,STARTS AND DRIVES,V5
6. N REG VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VR6 AUTO,91,OOO MILES,KENWOOD STEREO,V5/HISTORY,STARTS AND DRIVES NICE,MOT'D,NICE CAR
7. N REG FIAT COUPE,5 CYLINDER,20V TURBO,STARTS DRIVES,MOT'D,V5,KENWOOD STEREO,NICE CAR
8. ULTIMA V12 KIT CAR,ULTIMA KIT ON TOP OF XJS V12,GULL WING,RESTORATION PROJECT,NO V5 (IN GREY PRIMER )
9. H REG MINI,PARTLY STRIPPED,V5
10. 1965 FORD ANGLIA 1200 FOR RESTORATION,OWNED BY MY NEIGHBOUR FOR APPROX 40 YEARS,RUSTY UNDERNEATH,NICE INTERIOR,V5
11. 1981 (W) MERCEDES BENZ 380 SL (V8 ) FOR RESTORATION,STARTS AND DRIVES,HARD TOP INCLUDED,V5
12. 1959 ROVER P4 FOR RESTRATION,V5/HISTORY
13. 1972 L REG MGBGT (HISTORIC) OVERDRIVE,V5
ALL IN ALL A NICE MIXED BAG OF CLASSICS/FUTURE CLASSICS AND SPORTS CARS, GOOD INVESTMENT.
ALL THIS FOR ?11995 WHICH IS AN AVERAGE PRICE OF ?922 EACH (CAN'T GO WRONG,GOOD INVESTMENT )
PLEASE NOTE
ONLY THE 13 CARS THAT ARE LISTED IN THIS ADVERT ARE INCLUDED IN THE SALE SO ANYTHING ELSE YOU SEE IS NOT INCLUDED, FOR EXAMPLE THE JAG SS100 REPLICA AND THE TR8 ARE ADVERTISED SEPERATELY,PLEASE SEE MY OTHER ITEMS FOR MORE INFO.
THIS IS OBVIOUSLY ONLY A BRIEF DISCRIPTION OF THE CARS,IF YOU REQUIRE MORE INFO OR PHOTO'S OF ANY OR EACH CAR OR YOU WISH TO VIEW PLEASE PHONE MARTYN ON 01392461302 OR 07860835754
DELIVERY POSSIBLE BUT CARS WILL NEED TO BE PAID FOR BEFORE THEY LEAVE HERE.
PAYMENT,
FULL PAYMENT WITHIN 7 DAYS
CASH ON COLLECTION,BANK TRANSFER,OR CLEARED CHEQUE,SORRY NO PAYPAL
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Peter Huttemeier
Inviato: venerd? 23 luglio 2010 1.19
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] P6 V8 - Tokyo
On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 06:59:17 -0600, you wrote:
>Rudiger, The p-6 is indeed rare in Japan. I spent some time in Japan
>this spring and did see a p-6B in Kamakura. The license plate on the
>vehicle in the photo indicates that is registered in Shinagawa, which
>is a political area in Tokyo. Regards, Larry
I lived in Japan during the 80's and Rover Sedans were certainly rare on the ground.
Towards the end of its life the "old" Mini was still being sold in Japan under the Rover brand name.
MG Rover did set up a sales organisation for selling the Rover 75, but I am not sure how many were actually sold.
There are a number of privately imported SD1 Vitesses' being driven by enthusiasts.
I wonder if the P6 you saw was one of the ones being imported from Australia. There is (or was) a Japanese fellow in Sydney who was the agent for a classic car importer in Tokyo who brings in about 1 to 2 refurbished P6Bs a year.
Or at least they did, I have lost contact with them in recent years, I was doing a bit of spotting for them at one stage.
BTW Shinagawa is just a Ward (suburb) of Tokyo. It has the major motor vehicle registration centre for Tokyo, hence most of the licence plates issued in Tokyo carry the name of the Shinagawa issuing office.
Cheers,
Peter H
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From phing at videotron.ca Fri Jul 23 12:30:23 2010
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:30:23 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Goodbye from Rip Van winkle Hello from Monty Python
Message-ID: <000001cb2a8c$bb382cc0$31a88640$@ca>
Hi
A last message from me . After spending the last 15 years rebuilding my P3
" Ismbard kingdom Brunel " and re commissioning my P6B " Rip Van winkle " I
have decided that I have had my fill of Solihull's daffy engineering
madness . I have decided to look for a new set of challenges , " something
completely different " to play with.
So I have sold RVW and bought "Monty Python " a 1972 Jensen interceptor
Mk 2 .Monty came from Texas and doesn't speak French , so he failed the
incredibly nit picking Quebec mechanical inspection on principle . I'm now
stripping the front end to replace two imperceptibly worn bushes and a track
rod end
Then I will be let loose on the highway with 7 litres of hairy Chrysler
mechanicals, and icy air conditioning !!! .
My very best wishes to all you Roveristas, it has been fun talking to you
all , [and even Glen !!]
Happy trails
Cheers
Patrick
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From glen at glenrwilson.com Fri Jul 23 13:38:44 2010
From: glen at glenrwilson.com (Glen Wilson)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:38:44 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Goodbye from Rip Van winkle Hello from Monty Python
In-Reply-To: <000001cb2a8c$bb382cc0$31a88640$@ca>
References: <000001cb2a8c$bb382cc0$31a88640$@ca>
Message-ID: <4C49E1B4.5030803@glenrwilson.com>
Patrick,
You'll want to keep in touch with Michael Lewis ( jLewis at wsscwater.com )
who is on his second Jenson. You were one of the first responders when
we started the RSTCA many years ago, and I still have the photos of IKB
you sent way back then. If you remember, you were the first Member's Car
feature story in the newsletter. No digital cameras back then. I hope
you will drop me a note from time to time and let me know how your new
adventure is going.
Warmest regards,
Glen
On 07/23/2010 01:30 PM, Patrick Hiron wrote:
> Hi
>
> A last message from me . After spending the last 15 years rebuilding my P3
> " Ismbard kingdom Brunel " and re commissioning my P6B " Rip Van winkle " I
> have decided that I have had my fill of Solihull's daffy engineering
> madness . I have decided to look for a new set of challenges , " something
> completely different " to play with.
>
> So I have sold RVW and bought "Monty Python " a 1972 Jensen interceptor
> Mk 2 .Monty came from Texas and doesn't speak French , so he failed the
> incredibly nit picking Quebec mechanical inspection on principle . I'm now
> stripping the front end to replace two imperceptibly worn bushes and a track
> rod end
>
> Then I will be let loose on the highway with 7 litres of hairy Chrysler
> mechanicals, and icy air conditioning !!! .
>
> My very best wishes to all you Roveristas, it has been fun talking to you
> all , [and even Glen !!]
>
> Happy trails
>
> Cheers
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100723/bcf1c811/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From glen at glenrwilson.com Fri Jul 23 13:28:04 2010
From: glen at glenrwilson.com (Glen Wilson)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:28:04 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Goodbye from Rip Van winkle Hello from Monty Python
In-Reply-To: <000001cb2a8c$bb382cc0$31a88640$@ca>
References: <000001cb2a8c$bb382cc0$31a88640$@ca>
Message-ID: <4C49DF34.1000808@glenrwilson.com>
On 07/23/2010 01:30 PM, Patrick Hiron wrote:
Patrick,
You'll want to keep in touch with Michael Lewis ( jLewis at wsscwater.com )
who is on his second Jenson. You were one of the first responders when
we started the RSTCA many years ago, and I still have the photos of IKB
you sent way back then. If you remember, you were the first Member's Car
feature story in the newsletter. No digital cameras back then. I hope
you will drop me a note from time to time and let me know how your new
adventure is going.
Warmest regards,
Glen
> Hi
>
> A last message from me . After spending the last 15 years rebuilding my P3
> " Ismbard kingdom Brunel " and re commissioning my P6B " Rip Van winkle " I
> have decided that I have had my fill of Solihull's daffy engineering
> madness . I have decided to look for a new set of challenges , " something
> completely different " to play with.
>
> So I have sold RVW and bought "Monty Python " a 1972 Jensen interceptor
> Mk 2 .Monty came from Texas and doesn't speak French , so he failed the
> incredibly nit picking Quebec mechanical inspection on principle . I'm now
> stripping the front end to replace two imperceptibly worn bushes and a track
> rod end
>
> Then I will be let loose on the highway with 7 litres of hairy Chrysler
> mechanicals, and icy air conditioning !!! .
>
> My very best wishes to all you Roveristas, it has been fun talking to you
> all , [and even Glen !!]
>
> Happy trails
>
> Cheers
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100723/bcf1c811/attachment.html>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Fri Jul 23 14:41:59 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:41:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Goodbye from Rip Van winkle Hello from Monty Python
In-Reply-To: <000001cb2a8c$bb382cc0$31a88640$@ca>
Message-ID: <679101.83595.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Patrick,
I understand your frustration.
I am disappointed that it means you must go.
You are always welcome back.
You can even remain a member but select "NoMail" so you can read the archives from time to time...... OR... you can't stay away and will come back.
Whatever the outcome... good luck and best wishes..
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Fri, 7/23/10, Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca> wrote:
> From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Goodbye from Rip Van winkle Hello from Monty Python
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Received: Friday, July 23, 2010, 10:30 AM
> Hi
>
> A last message from me . After spending the last 15 years
> rebuilding my P3
> " Ismbard kingdom Brunel " and re commissioning my P6B "
> Rip Van winkle " I
> have decided that I have had my fill of Solihull's?
> daffy? engineering
> madness . I have decided to look for a new set of
> challenges , " something
> completely different " to play with.
>
> So I have sold RVW and bought "Monty Python
> "???a 1972 Jensen interceptor
> Mk 2 .Monty came from Texas and doesn't speak French , so
> he failed the
> incredibly nit picking? Quebec mechanical inspection
> on principle . I'm now
> stripping the front end to replace two imperceptibly worn
> bushes and a track
> rod end
>
> Then I will be let loose on the highway with 7 litres of
> hairy Chrysler
> mechanicals, and icy air conditioning !!! .
>
> My very best wishes to all you Roveristas, it has been fun
> talking to you
> all , [and even Glen !!]
>
> Happy trails
>
> Cheers
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Sat Jul 24 12:56:41 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:56:41 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] exhaust questions
Message-ID: <1BAEBB26-6AB7-4996-8174-1EB73005CE84@telusplanet.net>
When I bought my 1970 2000 TC, it came with what the previous owner
said was a new mild steel 2 can exhaust system he purchased this from
TC imports in about 1986.
After finding said system in the garage today, and positioning the
parts, it is actually an incomplete 3 can system.What I have has a
centre pipe with the correct attachment fittings, but is shorter in
length than what is on the car.
MIne has an uninterrupted pipe from the header to the intermediate
silencer can.
The new system has, what I assume is an expansion chamber, that fits
between the centre pipe and the intermediate silencer. My car
currently does not have this section, therefore, no attachment
fittings for this part.
Next, I have a new intermediate silencer which is the same as what is
on the car.
A new rear silencer and exhaust pipe is not in the box, and after
examination, not really needed as this section is in good shape.
I don't think any muffler shop should have any problems making a
hanger for the expansion chamber, but what are the advantages and
disadvantages of including this piece?
Any changes to be expected in engine performance or tuning?
It appears to position right below the gear shift lever, so this would
need to be dropped if any work needs to be done here.
Should I just have the muffler shop make me a straight pipe as what is
already on the car?
Looking through my parts manuals and workshop manuals, I can see many
variations of Rover P6 2000 exhaust systems. Can't find this one
though...
Surely an aftermarket system.
Thanks for any insight.
Roy
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sat Jul 24 14:55:47 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 12:55:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] exhaust questions
In-Reply-To: <1BAEBB26-6AB7-4996-8174-1EB73005CE84@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <429278.30567.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Roy,
I dabbled in this experience however, our magazine editor, has all my spare and pattern parts, now.
A three can system for the TC has a short pipe which has the brackets and basic shape of the front end of a "straight pipe" for a two-can system.
Illustrated here:
http://www.roverclub.ca/P6-front-pipe-3-can-mod.jpg
A two can system for the TC has a longer pipe after the manifold and before the "over-axle" can.
Illustrated here:
http://www.roverclub.ca/P6-exhaust-front-str.jpg
The part shown as 11820 is a heat shield which you could make with heat shield tape and SS clips from a performance auto shop.
I retrofitted a non-stock silencer in the tunnel under the floor but it was prone to getting detached with the speed bumps or sharp driveway angles so I went back to a straight pipe. The extra silencer made the sound in the cabin a little quieter.
You could get a shop to make a straight section to connect to your "short" "straight" section to the "over-the-axle" silencer.
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Sat, 7/24/10, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] exhaust questions
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Received: Saturday, July 24, 2010, 10:56 AM
> When I bought my 1970 2000 TC, it
> came with what the previous owner said was a new mild steel
> 2 can exhaust system he purchased this from TC imports in
> about 1986.
> After finding said system in the garage today, and
> positioning the parts, it is actually an incomplete 3 can
> system.What I have has a centre pipe with the correct
> attachment fittings, but is shorter in length than what is
> on the car.
> MIne has an uninterrupted pipe from the header to the
> intermediate silencer can.
> The new system has, what I assume is an expansion chamber,
> that fits between the centre pipe and the intermediate
> silencer. My car currently does not have this section,
> therefore, no attachment fittings for this part.
> Next, I have a new intermediate silencer which is the same
> as what is on the car.
> A new rear silencer and exhaust pipe is not in the box, and
> after examination, not really needed as this section is in
> good shape.
> I don't think any muffler shop should have any problems
> making a hanger for the expansion chamber, but what are the
> advantages and disadvantages of including this piece?
> Any changes to be expected in engine performance or
> tuning?
> It appears to position right below the gear shift lever, so
> this would need to be dropped if any work needs to be done
> here.
> Should I just have the muffler shop make me a straight pipe
> as what is already on the car?
> Looking through my parts manuals and workshop manuals, I
> can see many variations of Rover P6 2000 exhaust systems.
> Can't find this one though...
> Surely an aftermarket system.
> Thanks for any insight.
> Roy
>
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sat Jul 24 18:18:15 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:18:15 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] exhaust questions
In-Reply-To: <1BAEBB26-6AB7-4996-8174-1EB73005CE84@telusplanet.net>
References: <1BAEBB26-6AB7-4996-8174-1EB73005CE84@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <12BDBDF6BC4644349F576152618E7662@Vista>
No, not aftermarket.
There were 4 variants, and you would have what I had on my TC.
Just do a straight pipe that follow the tunnel and has a mounting hanger at
the back of the gearbox.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 3:56 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] exhaust questions
> When I bought my 1970 2000 TC, it came with what the previous owner said
> was a new mild steel 2 can exhaust system he purchased this from TC
> imports in about 1986.
> After finding said system in the garage today, and positioning the parts,
> it is actually an incomplete 3 can system.What I have has a centre pipe
> with the correct attachment fittings, but is shorter in length than what
> is on the car.
> MIne has an uninterrupted pipe from the header to the intermediate
> silencer can.
> The new system has, what I assume is an expansion chamber, that fits
> between the centre pipe and the intermediate silencer. My car currently
> does not have this section, therefore, no attachment fittings for this
> part.
> Next, I have a new intermediate silencer which is the same as what is on
> the car.
> A new rear silencer and exhaust pipe is not in the box, and after
> examination, not really needed as this section is in good shape.
> I don't think any muffler shop should have any problems making a hanger
> for the expansion chamber, but what are the advantages and disadvantages
> of including this piece?
> Any changes to be expected in engine performance or tuning?
> It appears to position right below the gear shift lever, so this would
> need to be dropped if any work needs to be done here.
> Should I just have the muffler shop make me a straight pipe as what is
> already on the car?
> Looking through my parts manuals and workshop manuals, I can see many
> variations of Rover P6 2000 exhaust systems. Can't find this one
> though...
> Surely an aftermarket system.
> Thanks for any insight.
> Roy
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100724/8a9afae6/attachment.html>
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> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From irishrover1 at live.com Sat Jul 24 19:29:09 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 22:29:09 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
Message-ID: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the P4 and also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but would like to be sure.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
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From fjcumberland at yahoo.com Sat Jul 24 20:41:10 2010
From: fjcumberland at yahoo.com (Jim Cumberland)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 18:41:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
Message-ID: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi all,
My 1971 NADA 2000 TC "Dora" is for sale. PRICE REDUCED TO $3750/OFFER. Some
very recent pics are here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fjcumberland/1971Rover2000TC02?authkey=Gv1sRgCKr0v7S9l4artgE&feat=directlink
The car is running really well, and looks great. Her center console is out
because we had just changed the gearshift lever.
This car is one of only 222 2000 TC models that Rover made for the US (or
"Federal" or NADA") market - Rover withdrew from the market that year and did
not return until the advent of the SD1 in (I think) 1980. This thus is an
opportunity to acquire a very rare exampe of one of Brtain's finest sports
saloons.
This car was a diplomatic import into DC that was bought when it was 6 months
old by a Rover enthusiast in MD named Bill Kumm. He immediately loaded it up
with just about every conceivable Rover option (including Sundym windows and
Delanair AC). I bought it from him in 2002. He refurbished it in 1999.
Original color is Mexico Brown. The interior is the original one - it
is Sandalwood. The blue is a Chrysler color - the best way I can describe it is
"Richard Petty Blue." In my opinion it suits the car very well. I have the
Heritage Certificate for it.
I am culling the fleet because I am in the midst of moving from SC to Buffalo
this summer. I'm selling the Rover because all my other stuff is
Mini/Landcrab/Metro - I've already sold my MG 1100 and probably will have my
Austin 1300 estate for sale (and possibly my Radford Cooper S as well). Dora
has been a great car, and I and my kids (especially my daughter) have enjoyed
her immensely, but I want to concentrate on Minis and the Crab and Metro (yes, I
have a soft spot for underappreciated BL tin. One day I will own a Maxi.
Probably in some horrible color (though my cars tend to be blue or green . . .
.).
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From den at aachenkennels.com Sat Jul 24 21:07:54 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:07:54 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] Car that runs on air..!!!
References: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA4E9@Server.adoptsec.local>
They should give these to politicians.? they both run on hot air.
http://www.flixxy.com/zero-pollution-automobile.htm
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Sat Jul 24 21:11:24 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 12:11:24 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6F0FF98E6C8F418A81E61C4934282619@Vista>
P4s are 15" wheels, P3s I think 16".
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Ben Rodgers" <irishrover1 at live.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 10:29 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
>
>
> Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the P4 and
> also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but would like to be
> sure.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
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From den at aachenkennels.com Sat Jul 24 21:28:53 2010
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:28:53 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet ] engine number
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA4EB@Server.adoptsec.local>
I have to replace the cam shaft in my P2 47 16hp engine. Fortunately I
have a block with a good cam however I need to find out what the block
is before I go ahead and use it. The number on the side of the block is
7411699. Checking in the workshop manual I make that a 47 16Hp? fingers
crossed I have it right.
Can you confirm for me chaps?.
Also what oil is on the market today to top up the Lovax dampers?
Den Gallacher
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sat Jul 24 22:21:26 2010
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 03:21:26 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Happy Trails Patrick
Message-ID: <BAY119-W297530A6E529B4AE0B563EDEA50@phx.gbl>
I want to say that Patrick has been an incredible help over the years with my P3 queries and both our 3500S trials and tribulations and i'm sad to see him go, but happy its still British which stills leaves hope for him.........Cause once you go Rover you always come back......sometimes takes a little time but he'll be back....LOL
Happy Jensen eering Patrick
Cheers
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
Game on: Challenge friends to great games on Messenger
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734387
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From lafbery at telus.net Sat Jul 24 23:12:52 2010
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:12:52 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
In-Reply-To: <6F0FF98E6C8F418A81E61C4934282619@Vista>
References: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
<6F0FF98E6C8F418A81E61C4934282619@Vista>
Message-ID: <96A5A18488074DE89CCA1A8F76B333AD@BarryPC>
P3s wheels are 16" with an option of 17" in the UK P4 brake drums are 11"
P3 are 12" so the shoes will not fit, not sure about the wheels.
Barry
P2
P3
>> Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the P4 and
>> also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but would like to be
>> sure.
>> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>> *************
>> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
>> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
>> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
>> Royal Navy?
>> then
>> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
>> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> URL:
>> <http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100724/e73bc48b/attachment.html>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From galmpton at shaw.ca Sat Jul 24 23:30:09 2010
From: galmpton at shaw.ca (galmpton)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:30:09 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 for Sale
Message-ID: <F841BA22E9D24D319617A1DBD5EEC1FD@user789ad50f2d>
Hi All,
I came accross this in Used Victoria (BC, Canada) - Item is located in Chemanus BC on Vancouver Island.
Owner offered the following regarding the car.
"It is showing 160 thou KM.
I have bills for many years.
In its life it has had a major engine rebuild.
A transmission rebuild.
Bushings shocks exhaust etc.
Always well maintained.
The front and rear quarter panels were replaced and the car was restored
about 10 years ago.
Power windows all work
One power door lock right rear needs attention.
Air con needs recharge.
I am second owner in last 17 years.
Car has a little rust starting in the lowere edges but nothing structural
and can be maintained."
Here is the ad for anyone interested.
http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1980-Land-Rover-Rover-3500-sd1_12611085
Al Gunnarson
SD1
Victoria BC
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From ClairHUCTelecomsEng at uk.bp.com Sun Jul 25 00:14:53 2010
From: ClairHUCTelecomsEng at uk.bp.com (Clair, Telecoms Eng)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 06:14:53 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1574F8C9D@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
Hi Bill,
No to both questions. My P3 brakes were worn out recently and just
relined them, if that is any help.
Regards
Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
Sent: 25 July 2010 01:29
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the P4
and also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but would like
to be sure.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Jul 25 00:54:09 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 22:54:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <F841BA22E9D24D319617A1DBD5EEC1FD@user789ad50f2d>
Message-ID: <741156.51301.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
If this is the SD1 that I think it might be, it's worth a look. I don't know who placed the ad but the car looks familiar and the location seems right.
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Sat, 7/24/10, galmpton <galmpton at shaw.ca> wrote:
> From: galmpton <galmpton at shaw.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] SD1 for Sale
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Received: Saturday, July 24, 2010, 9:30 PM
> Hi All,
>
> I came accross this in Used Victoria (BC, Canada) - Item is
> located in Chemanus BC on Vancouver Island.
> Owner offered the following regarding the car.
>
> "It is showing 160 thou KM.
>
> I have bills for many years.
>
> In its life it has had a major engine rebuild.
>
> A transmission rebuild.
>
> Bushings shocks exhaust etc.
>
> Always well maintained.
>
> The front and rear quarter panels were replaced and the car
> was restored
> about 10 years ago.
>
> Power windows all work
>
> One power door lock right rear needs attention.
>
> Air con needs recharge.
>
> I am second owner in last 17 years.
>
> Car has a little rust starting in the lowere edges but
> nothing structural
> and can be maintained."
>
> Here is the ad for anyone interested.
>
> http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1980-Land-Rover-Rover-3500-sd1_12611085
>
> Al Gunnarson
> SD1
> Victoria BC
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
From michael.maher at virgin.net Sun Jul 25 03:15:59 2010
From: michael.maher at virgin.net (Mike Maher)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:15:59 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet ] engine number
References: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160DA4EB@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <001c01cb2bd1$9de91ad0$0201a8c0@miked77a6a71f0>
Hi Den,
Yes that's correct. AS regards oil, Penrite make a damper oil.
best regards
Mike Maher
2005 Rover75 CDTi
1947 16 Sports Saloon
1946 Kitcher Special
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
To: <RoverAustralia at yahoogroups.com.au>
Cc: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 3:28 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] engine number
>I have to replace the cam shaft in my P2 47 16hp engine. Fortunately I
> have a block with a good cam however I need to find out what the block
> is before I go ahead and use it. The number on the side of the block is
> 7411699. Checking in the workshop manual I make that a 47 16Hp? fingers
> crossed I have it right.
>
>
>
> Can you confirm for me chaps?.
>
>
>
> Also what oil is on the market today to top up the Lovax dampers?
>
>
>
> Den Gallacher
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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From irishrover1 at live.com Sun Jul 25 06:03:02 2010
From: irishrover1 at live.com (Frederick Ben Rodgers)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:03:02 -0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
In-Reply-To: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1574F8C9D@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
References: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>,
<CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1574F8C9D@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
Message-ID: <COL111-W162084BF5264731E08659D87A50@phx.gbl>
Thanks Bill that's what I thought! I had a phone message from a chap asking if I had any brake parts to fit a 1948 P75 with 15 wheels??? So you can see I have no idea what model he has, I'm guess its a P4 but will have to wait till he calls back.
Cheers Ben (irishrover)
*************
My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 06:14:53 +0100
> From: ClairHUCTelecomsEng at uk.bp.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> No to both questions. My P3 brakes were worn out recently and just
> relined them, if that is any help.
>
> Regards
>
> Stewart
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> Sent: 25 July 2010 01:29
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
>
>
>
> Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the P4
> and also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but would like
> to be sure.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
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From scareycolin54 at live.co.uk Sun Jul 25 18:01:30 2010
From: scareycolin54 at live.co.uk (Colin Gould)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 23:01:30 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
In-Reply-To: <COL111-W162084BF5264731E08659D87A50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-W22FE2B3BCF5E4AC4C52BFA87A50@phx.gbl>, ,
<CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1574F8C9D@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>,
<COL111-W162084BF5264731E08659D87A50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU133-W4DD97398C05ABD93CE03487A50@phx.gbl>
Hi Gentlemen (and Ladies )
I don't know for sure if P2/3 /4 brakes are the same , however I can reccomend Paul Hunt , of Powertrack , Old Windsor , England for ANY Brake parts and advice ,,,---He can be contacted on 0044 1753 842680
He is VERY "switched -on" and helpful !
Good luck !
Colin
Kingsdown Garage
Faringdon
England
> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:03:02 -0200
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
>
>
> Thanks Bill that's what I thought! I had a phone message from a chap asking if I had any brake parts to fit a 1948 P75 with 15 wheels??? So you can see I have no idea what model he has, I'm guess its a P4 but will have to wait till he calls back.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 06:14:53 +0100
> > From: ClairHUCTelecomsEng at uk.bp.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > No to both questions. My P3 brakes were worn out recently and just
> > relined them, if that is any help.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Stewart
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: 25 July 2010 01:29
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the P4
> > and also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but would like
> > to be sure.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com
> > Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges,
> > Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
> > http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> > sure to scroll down the whole page.
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> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Learn more ways to connect with your buddies now
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From dirk at vy-tek.com Mon Jul 26 16:48:37 2010
From: dirk at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 17:48:37 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rovernet Digest, Vol 123, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1280163609.18969.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <91156111748F4601839524C382ECC23F@DirkPC2>
Hello Ben,
The P3 braking system is quite different then the P4 and it makes a big
difference whether the car is LHD or RHD as the RHD has a different master
cylinder then the LHD. Mike Couldry in the UK can supply the parts needed
but who ever works on the brakes needs to have the Rover Sports Register
manual on the P3 to properly set the rear mechanical brakes relative to the
front hydraulic brakes. I do know from experience that the front wheel
cylinders can use Landover ones but the brake hose must be changed.
If after saying all of this all that is needed is new brake shoe liners then
Mike can help with those as well.
If you have anymore questions send an email directly to me and I will follow
up with you
Good Luck
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 1:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 123, Issue 1
Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: P3 Brakes Question (Colin Gould)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 23:01:30 +0000
From: Colin Gould <scareycolin54 at live.co.uk>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
Message-ID: <BLU133-W4DD97398C05ABD93CE03487A50 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi Gentlemen (and Ladies )
I don't know for sure if P2/3 /4 brakes are the same , however I can
reccomend Paul Hunt , of Powertrack , Old Windsor , England for ANY Brake
parts and advice ,,,---He can be contacted on 0044 1753 842680
He is VERY "switched -on" and helpful !
Good luck !
Colin
Kingsdown Garage
Faringdon
England
> From: irishrover1 at live.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:03:02 -0200
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
>
>
> Thanks Bill that's what I thought! I had a phone message from a chap
asking if I had any brake parts to fit a 1948 P75 with 15 wheels??? So you
can see I have no idea what model he has, I'm guess its a P4 but will have
to wait till he calls back.
> Cheers Ben (irishrover)
>
> *************
> My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW
Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 06:14:53 +0100
> > From: ClairHUCTelecomsEng at uk.bp.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > No to both questions. My P3 brakes were worn out recently and just
> > relined them, if that is any help.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Stewart
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca
> > [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of Frederick Ben Rodgers
> > Sent: 25 July 2010 01:29
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] P3 Brakes Question
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone know if the brake shoes=drums are the same on the P3 as the
> > P4 and also if a P4 wheel fits a P3. I don;t think they do, but
> > would like to be sure.
> > Cheers Ben (irishrover)
> > *************
> > My Books Lily & Me, and The Royal Navy & Me, are now available as
> > E-Books. Go to www.smashwords.com Interested in Submarines,Antique
> > cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
> > then
> > Visit our website and blog at www.irishroversbooks.com
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > MSN Dating: Find someone special. Start now.
> > http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9734384
> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was
> > scrubbed...
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> > /201
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> > page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
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End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 123, Issue 1
****************************************
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Tue Jul 27 08:49:02 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:49:02 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: TR8 Rip vaqn Wikle for Sale
In-Reply-To: <F841BA22E9D24D319617A1DBD5EEC1FD@user789ad50f2d>
References: <F841BA22E9D24D319617A1DBD5EEC1FD@user789ad50f2d>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C639@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120594781016&fromMa
keTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
TRIUMPH TR8 (GENUINE) LHD CHASSIS NUMBER ACN00012UF,
ONE OF THE FIRST TR8's BUILT, STORED FOR 24 YEARS
Another Rip van Wikle!
Best regards, GR.
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Tue Jul 27 18:23:41 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:23:41 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
Message-ID: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my
rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had
made some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel
additives),
I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running
well.
So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it
liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs
good, and starts again without problems with a warm engine.
Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with
the choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start
with the choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to
lean out the mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts
until running well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need
to turn the screws clockwise.
I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to
confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
Thanks in advance.
Roy
From sdibdin at gmail.com Tue Jul 27 19:39:28 2010
From: sdibdin at gmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:39:28 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
References: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <87B7C4F0-3086-457F-8E97-4D7151903B0C@gmail.com>
Hi Ray
Have you retorqued the head? I had very similar symptoms on my rebuilt 2000tc after a rebuild and retorquing the head bolts did the trick.
Cheers,
Steven
Sent from my iPhone, please excuse any typing errors
On Jul 27, 2010, at 7:23 PM, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
> It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had made some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel additives),
> I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running well.
> So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs good, and starts again without problems with a warm engine.
> Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with the choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start with the choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to lean out the mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts until running well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need to turn the screws clockwise.
> I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> Thanks in advance.
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Tue Jul 27 20:18:17 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 19:18:17 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
Message-ID: <54CC7B32-CAC1-4D58-8D93-AA9A7CFF3AAF@telusplanet.net>
Steven, I have not retourqued head bolts yet. I asked the engine shop
about this and they said that it will be fine. During the rebuild, one
of the carbs was acting up, and took some time and some running of the
engine to set right. They said engine was ran enough, and retorqued
before delivery. Still, even if the engine was run in the shop, they
didn't put any miles or load on it. I will add this to the list of "to
do's" to solve this issue. Thanks for the tip!
Roy
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Jul 27 21:00:33 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 19:00:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <958787.18230.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Risking opening a can of "Tuning Worms":
Ref: workshop manual for 2000/2200 (late)
Pages 65N and 66N
"B5. Fast idle. Set the fast idle as follows: Pull the choke control on to enrichment, then push it in until the warning light just goes out. Check that the carburetter jets have gone fully home.
B6. Release the locknuts on the fast idle screws and turn the fats idle screws in until they just touch the cam levers' lower profile.
B7. **Turn each screw in** by equal amounts to obtain a fast idle speed of 1,400 to 1,500 rpm. 'Blip' the throttle at each alteration of the fast idle screws to allow them to seat on the profile.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine speed to exceed 4,500 rpm....
B8. Relock the fast idle screw locknuts securely
B9. Push the choke control in, pull it out again to enrichment, then push until the warning light just goes out. Recheck the fast idle speed."
So,..... I take from this article that:
1. "turning in" means clockwise.
2. Turning the idle screw clockwise will increase idle speed
3. On the accompanying diagram, screw "A" is the "Jet adjusting screw (mixture strength) and is slightly higher in elevation than screw "C" being the idle screw.
4. Screw "A" will push the jet downwards when turned clockwise.
On an earlier page (54N), there is a paragraph that discusses the initial set-up of HS8 TC carbs.
"4. Unscrew both mixture adjustment screws. Turn in both screws until they are just touching the cast pad. Turn both screws until they are just touching the cast pad. Turn both screws in a further 3.5 turns."
So,..... I take from the paragraph that "turn-in" means clockwise which means enrichen.
That '3.5 turns' paragraph often leads to further discussion :-)
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Tue, 7/27/10, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Received: Tuesday, July 27, 2010, 4:23 PM
> So as I may have alluded to, I have a
> bit over 200 miles now on my rebuilt and overbored 2000
> (2200) TC engine.
> It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and
> as I had made some changes to it's diet (different gas
> station, some fuel additives),
> I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it
> was running well.
> So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with
> what it liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until
> warm, then runs good, and starts again without problems with
> a warm engine.
> Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start
> the car with the choke activated. I have tried this, and the
> car would not start with the choke engaged. Discussed this
> with the shop and they said to lean out the mixture, turning
> the mixture screws equal small amounts until running well
> again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need to turn
> the screws clockwise.
> I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident
> experts to confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> Thanks in advance.
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Jul 27 21:11:23 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:11:23 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
References: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <20FCBEBBE5694637A5B1FF2140FB274B@Vista>
Is it shaking when on choke, or off it?
My first impression is that the fast idle screws are unevenly set.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:23 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my
> rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
> It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had made
> some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel additives),
> I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running
> well.
> So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it liked
> and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs good, and
> starts again without problems with a warm engine.
> Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with the
> choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start with the
> choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to lean out the
> mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts until running
> well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need to turn the
> screws clockwise.
> I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to
> confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> Thanks in advance.
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Tue Jul 27 22:24:41 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 21:24:41 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
Message-ID: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
Hi Eric,
I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied
and would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email
them to me at your convenience.
I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke
when restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a
rebuilt engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold
starts) can cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed.
I called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his
69 TC for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my
paranoia and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture
is as good as can be.
I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
whiplash from shaking their head to much.
Roy
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Jul 28 00:09:29 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 15:09:29 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
References: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista>
SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold
though.
I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt
in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in
the bores). I bought it with the engine not installed.
I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
I vouch for the stuff!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied and
> would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email them to me
> at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke when
> restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a rebuilt
> engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold starts) can
> cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. I
> called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his 69 TC
> for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my paranoia
> and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture is
> as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 28 05:44:48 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:44:48 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista>
References: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
<ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8A0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
W" a tremendous lip in the bores"
What does this mean please?
Thanks, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Netspace
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 7.09
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold though.
I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in the bores). I bought it with the engine not installed.
I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
I vouch for the stuff!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied and
> would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email them to me
> at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke when
> restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a rebuilt
> engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold starts) can
> cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. I
> called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his 69 TC
> for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my paranoia
> and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture is
> as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Jul 28 05:48:10 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:48:10 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8A0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net><ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8A0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <0C348BB2CCEB4B9AAB846FFF7A0707E0@Vista>
Very worn cylinders, where the piston rings rub.
It is always worst at the top, where the top ring stops. Above that it is
the original size (pretty much), so you get a step change or lip at that
point.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 8:44 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
W" a tremendous lip in the bores"
What does this mean please?
Thanks, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
conto di Netspace
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 7.09
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold
though.
I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt
in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in
the bores). I bought it with the engine not installed.
I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
I vouch for the stuff!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied and
> would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email them to me
> at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke when
> restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a rebuilt
> engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold starts) can
> cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. I
> called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his 69 TC
> for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my paranoia
> and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture is
> as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 28 05:57:02 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:57:02 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC - tremendous lip
in the bores
In-Reply-To: <0C348BB2CCEB4B9AAB846FFF7A0707E0@Vista>
References: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net><ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista><39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8A0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<0C348BB2CCEB4B9AAB846FFF7A0707E0@Vista>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8B1@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Thanks.
So yiu have to are - alesate them and to put a bigger ring or a bigger piston.
We use to say that the piston has done the step, and thet the piston "bells", this means moves a bit like a bell inside the cylinder.
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Netspace
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 12.48
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
Very worn cylinders, where the piston rings rub.
It is always worst at the top, where the top ring stops. Above that it is the original size (pretty much), so you get a step change or lip at that point.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 8:44 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
W" a tremendous lip in the bores"
What does this mean please?
Thanks, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per
conto di Netspace
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 7.09
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold
though.
I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt
in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in
the bores). I bought it with the engine not installed.
I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
I vouch for the stuff!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied and
> would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email them to me
> at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke when
> restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a rebuilt
> engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold starts) can
> cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. I
> called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his 69 TC
> for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my paranoia
> and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture is
> as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From lewill at ctcweb.net Wed Jul 28 07:38:54 2010
From: lewill at ctcweb.net (larry)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 06:38:54 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
References: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
<ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista>
Message-ID: <000e01cb2e51$dd7f5790$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
I agree about the choke. In Idaho I choke my TC the year around. It won't
run at all unless I choke it and let it fast idle for a few minutes or so.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
> When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold
> though.
>
> I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt
> in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in
> the bores). I bought it with the engine not installed.
> I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
> I vouch for the stuff!
>
> PVS
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
>
>> Hi Eric,
>> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
>> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
>> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied
>> and would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email them
>> to me at your convenience.
>> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
>> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>>
>> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke when
>> restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>>
>> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a
>> rebuilt engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold
>> starts) can cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
>> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. I
>> called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his 69 TC
>> for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
>> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my
>> paranoia and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>>
>> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
>> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture
>> is as good as can be.
>>
>> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
>> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
>> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
>> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>>
>> Roy
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From fjcumberland at yahoo.com Wed Jul 28 09:26:52 2010
From: fjcumberland at yahoo.com (Jim Cumberland)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 07:26:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <000e01cb2e51$dd7f5790$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
References: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
<ECD29216E58C47B2A56DAF91A5A4758E@Vista>
<000e01cb2e51$dd7f5790$0201a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>
Message-ID: <678127.86412.qm@web34204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Mine is the same way re choke.
________________________________
From: larry <lewill at ctcweb.net>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 8:38:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
I agree about the choke. In Idaho I choke my TC the year around. It won't run at
all unless I choke it and let it fast idle for a few minutes or so. Larry
----- Original Message ----- From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
> When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold though.
>
> I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt in
>1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in the
>bores).? I bought it with the engine not installed.
> I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
> I vouch for the stuff!
>
> PVS
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
>
>> Hi Eric,
>> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also noticed
>>that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
>> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied and would
>>be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email? them to me at your
>>convenience.
>> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully warmed to
>>cause the choke warning light to be active.
>>
>> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke? when
>>restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>>
>> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a rebuilt
>>engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold starts) can cause the
>>bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
>> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed.? I called
>>up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his? 69 TC for "awhile"
>>when starting no matter what the temp.
>> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my paranoia and
>>doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>>
>> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and utilizing
>>the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture is as good as can
>>be.
>>
>> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider myself a
>>mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do however learn
>>quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer whiplash from shaking
>>their head to much.
>>
>> Roy
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure
>>to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure
>to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to
scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From RoverP6 at gmx.de Wed Jul 28 09:51:39 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 16:51:39 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 banger racing
References: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1FF659A2571E4EE996A4DFDD7FDDB37D@rw>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mookie427/4827418653/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mookie427/4828009738/
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Wed Jul 28 10:04:08 2010
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:04:08 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] P6 of 1980......
References: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<1FF659A2571E4EE996A4DFDD7FDDB37D@rw>
Message-ID: <250791AD6E0E44C9848A4482C3EB14B1@rw>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/leicester-vehicle-photography/4816636004/
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Wed Jul 28 10:47:37 2010
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 08:47:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <456346B6-6491-4E44-90BC-5FEF50526BD3@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <295900.46659.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Roy,
Page links and message sent to you as a PM.
Eric
"Always look on the bright side of life."... Life of Brian, 1979;
"I'm not dead yet!" ..... Monty Python and the Holy Grail, 1975
--- On Tue, 7/27/10, Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net> wrote:
> From: Roy Babiuk <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Received: Tuesday, July 27, 2010, 8:24 PM
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car
> and also noticed that turning the screw clockwise would
> enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you
> have supplied and would be in your debt if you could scan
> theses pages and email them to me at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs
> to be fully warmed to cause the choke warning light to be
> active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used
> the choke when restarting - runs fine... no shaking with
> choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding
> breaking in a rebuilt engine and several have warned that
> using the choke (cold starts) can cause the bores to be
> washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was
> not needed. I called up my Dad tonight and he said he always
> needed to choke his 69 TC for "awhile" when starting no
> matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray
> with my paranoia and doing too much to ensure a good running
> in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts
> soon, and utilizing the instructions in the maintenance
> manual to ensure mixture is as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means
> consider myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions
> of adequacy, I do however learn quickly, and hopefully won't
> cause the group to suffer whiplash from shaking their head
> to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to
> this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 28 11:04:34 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:04:34 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] Sunbeam Rapier in scrapeyard
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F56@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<<set-72157624494542926.url>>
This is incredible.
Best regards, GR.
Il messaggio ? pronto per l'invio con i seguenti file o collegamenti allegati:
Collegamento a: http://www.flickr.com/photos/leicester-vehicle-photography/4794215384/in/set-72157624494542926/
Nota: per proteggere il computer dai virus, le applicazioni di posta elettronica impediscono l'invio o la ricezione di alcuni tipi di allegati. Per determinare la modalit? di gestione degli allegati, controllare le impostazioni di protezione della posta elettronica.
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 28 12:46:39 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:46:39 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
In-Reply-To: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F88@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Splendid car.
I must confess: I also like maxi very much...
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
Per conto di Jim Cumberland
Inviato: domenica 25 luglio 2010 3.41
A: Rovernet; Rovernet
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
Hi all,
My 1971 NADA 2000 TC "Dora" is for sale. PRICE REDUCED TO $3750/OFFER.
Some very recent pics are here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fjcumberland/1971Rover2000TC02?authkey=Gv1sR
gCKr0v7S9l4artgE&feat=directlink
The car is running really well, and looks great. Her center console is
out because we had just changed the gearshift lever.
This car is one of only 222 2000 TC models that Rover made for the US
(or "Federal" or NADA") market - Rover withdrew from the market that
year and did not return until the advent of the SD1 in (I think) 1980.
This thus is an opportunity to acquire a very rare exampe of one of
Brtain's finest sports saloons.
This car was a diplomatic import into DC that was bought when it was 6
months old by a Rover enthusiast in MD named Bill Kumm. He immediately
loaded it up with just about every conceivable Rover option (including
Sundym windows and Delanair AC). I bought it from him in 2002. He
refurbished it in 1999.
Original color is Mexico Brown. The interior is the original one - it
is Sandalwood. The blue is a Chrysler color - the best way I can
describe it is "Richard Petty Blue." In my opinion it suits the car very
well. I have the Heritage Certificate for it.
I am culling the fleet because I am in the midst of moving from SC to
Buffalo this summer. I'm selling the Rover because all my other stuff
is Mini/Landcrab/Metro - I've already sold my MG 1100 and probably will
have my
Austin 1300 estate for sale (and possibly my Radford Cooper S as well).
Dora
has been a great car, and I and my kids (especially my daughter) have
enjoyed her immensely, but I want to concentrate on Minis and the Crab
and Metro (yes, I have a soft spot for underappreciated BL tin. One day
I will own a Maxi.
Probably in some horrible color (though my cars tend to be blue or green
. . .
.).
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Wed Jul 28 12:50:53 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:50:53 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: R: 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F88@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F88@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F8B@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
But, seriously speaking, especially Landcrab!
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 19.47
A: rovernet at rovernet.ca; rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] R: 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
Splendid car.
I must confess: I also like maxi very much...
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
Per conto di Jim Cumberland
Inviato: domenica 25 luglio 2010 3.41
A: Rovernet; Rovernet
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
Hi all,
My 1971 NADA 2000 TC "Dora" is for sale. PRICE REDUCED TO $3750/OFFER.
Some very recent pics are here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fjcumberland/1971Rover2000TC02?authkey=Gv1sR
gCKr0v7S9l4artgE&feat=directlink
The car is running really well, and looks great. Her center console is out because we had just changed the gearshift lever.
This car is one of only 222 2000 TC models that Rover made for the US (or "Federal" or NADA") market - Rover withdrew from the market that year and did not return until the advent of the SD1 in (I think) 1980.
This thus is an opportunity to acquire a very rare exampe of one of Brtain's finest sports saloons.
This car was a diplomatic import into DC that was bought when it was 6 months old by a Rover enthusiast in MD named Bill Kumm. He immediately loaded it up with just about every conceivable Rover option (including Sundym windows and Delanair AC). I bought it from him in 2002. He refurbished it in 1999.
Original color is Mexico Brown. The interior is the original one - it is Sandalwood. The blue is a Chrysler color - the best way I can describe it is "Richard Petty Blue." In my opinion it suits the car very well. I have the Heritage Certificate for it.
I am culling the fleet because I am in the midst of moving from SC to Buffalo this summer. I'm selling the Rover because all my other stuff is Mini/Landcrab/Metro - I've already sold my MG 1100 and probably will have my Austin 1300 estate for sale (and possibly my Radford Cooper S as well).
Dora
has been a great car, and I and my kids (especially my daughter) have enjoyed her immensely, but I want to concentrate on Minis and the Crab and Metro (yes, I have a soft spot for underappreciated BL tin. One day I will own a Maxi.
Probably in some horrible color (though my cars tend to be blue or green . . .
.).
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From fjcumberland at yahoo.com Wed Jul 28 12:52:46 2010
From: fjcumberland at yahoo.com (Jim Cumberland)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:52:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F88@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
References: <433993.16332.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B9596258F88@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <298447.1352.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks!? I like Maxis as well.? Unfortunately, I already have a Landcrab, so a
Maxi, though more useful, would be redundant.
Cheers,
Jim
________________________________
From: "gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca; rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 1:46:39 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
Splendid car.
I must confess: I also like maxi very much...
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
Per conto di Jim Cumberland
Inviato: domenica 25 luglio 2010 3.41
A: Rovernet; Rovernet
Oggetto: [Rovernet ] 71 2000 TC For Sale - PRICE REDUCED
Hi all,
My 1971 NADA 2000 TC "Dora" is for sale.? PRICE REDUCED TO $3750/OFFER.
Some very recent pics are here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fjcumberland/1971Rover2000TC02?authkey=Gv1sR
gCKr0v7S9l4artgE&feat=directlink
The car is running really well, and looks great.? Her center console is
out because we had just changed the gearshift lever.
This car is one of only 222 2000 TC models that Rover made for the US
(or "Federal" or NADA") market - Rover withdrew from the market that
year and did not return until the advent of the SD1 in (I think) 1980.
This thus is an opportunity to acquire a very rare exampe of one of
Brtain's finest sports saloons.
This car was a diplomatic import into DC that was bought when it was 6
months old by a Rover enthusiast in MD named Bill Kumm.? He immediately
loaded it up with just about every conceivable Rover option (including
Sundym windows and Delanair AC).? I bought it from him in 2002.? He
refurbished it in 1999.?
Original color is Mexico Brown.? The interior is the original one - it
is Sandalwood.? The blue is a Chrysler color - the best way I can
describe it is "Richard Petty Blue." In my opinion it suits the car very
well.? I have the Heritage Certificate for it.
I am culling the fleet because I am in the midst of moving from SC to
Buffalo this summer.? I'm selling the Rover because all my other stuff
is Mini/Landcrab/Metro - I've already sold my MG 1100 and probably will
have my
Austin 1300 estate for sale (and possibly my Radford Cooper S as well).
Dora
has been a great car, and I and my kids (especially my daughter) have
enjoyed her immensely, but I want to concentrate on Minis and the Crab
and Metro (yes, I have a soft spot for underappreciated BL tin.? One day
I will own a Maxi.?
Probably in some horrible color (though my cars tend to be blue or green
. . .
.).
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com Wed Jul 28 15:57:57 2010
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:57:57 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
References: <2151473E-452A-493F-A0EC-A50DE5D1BBB4@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W402E8927D0E8C21501D6CBB8A80@phx.gbl>
At 200 miles that engine will be very tight and thus hard to start. Don't worry about using the choke to get it started - give it heaps. My guess is that the "don't use excessive choke" mantra is aimed at the one in ten with poorly tuned cars in cold climates who run the vehicle with the choke half out most of the time.
My 2000TC with 5000 miles up after a full rebore etc. simply will not start from cold without full choke and it needs partial choke for the first mile or so to run without stalling or lumping - even in summer.
The twin carbs MUST be set up and balanced properly using an absolutely systematic approach - especially with a new-rebored engine - and ideally with a Carbalancer-type tool. Contrary to what the manuals infer, expect to find a significant difference in the mixture and slow-running settings between carbs when you do your adjusting. [By the way, an important adjustment [that's underplayed in commercial workshop manuals] is that for lost-motion on the carb linkage - do it wrong and smooth acceleration is compromised.] Also make sure that the carb pistons haven't been swapped around if the carb has been torn down for a clean and check during the rebuild process - pistons are matched to carbs during manufacture and if they get changed for a spares under the bench or swapped around, the pistons will bind randomly and make proper adjustment and smooth running impossible.]
Carb setup naturally includes getting the twin choke cables right on the line too.
> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:23:41 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
> So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my
> rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
> It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had
> made some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel
> additives),
> I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running
> well.
> So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it
> liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs
> good, and starts again without problems with a warm engine.
> Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with
> the choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start
> with the choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to
> lean out the mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts
> until running well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need
> to turn the screws clockwise.
> I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to
> confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> Thanks in advance.
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
_________________________________________________________________
Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/
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From carstuff3 at gmail.com Wed Jul 28 16:47:42 2010
From: carstuff3 at gmail.com (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:47:42 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Message-ID: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
Hello all,
It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do is
replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of a
good one, please let me know.
Thanks,
Gordon.
1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
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From kkinard at att.net Wed Jul 28 18:17:32 2010
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:17:32 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than
seat belts.
Kent K.
Gordon Harrower wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do is
> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of a
> good one, please let me know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gordon.
>
> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
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>
>
From carstuff3 at gmail.com Wed Jul 28 18:24:32 2010
From: carstuff3 at gmail.com (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:24:32 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
References: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
<4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
Hi Kent,
There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it over.
It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
into any gear!
Gordon.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than seat
> belts.
> Kent K.
>
> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do is
>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of a
>> good one, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gordon.
>>
>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Wed Jul 28 18:26:24 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 09:26:24 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com><4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
<AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6D0A1F1613CE4C7598C08B656CCC3E86@Vista>
1. Is the gearbox noisy?
2. If you match the revs (like doing a clutchless change), will it shift?
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Harrower" <carstuff3 at gmail.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
> Hi Kent,
>
> There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
> linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it
> over.
> It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
> into any gear!
>
> Gordon.
>
> On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
>> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than
>> seat
>> belts.
>> Kent K.
>>
>> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do
>>> is
>>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of
>>> a
>>> good one, please let me know.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Gordon.
>>>
>>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>> >
>>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
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From A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au Wed Jul 28 22:25:58 2010
From: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au (Alex Ward)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 13:25:58 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
<4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
<AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <445778E72B185D479DA2A30C7C9C7A7D0A72F67A5F@EXCH2007.ltu.edu.au>
I have a 1960 P5 manual. Check that the clutch is fully declutching. Easy to tell because if not fully declutching, it will crunch going into first gear.
If clutch is OK, remove centre mat covering the hump and check the very large plate which holds the gearstick assembly. It is held down with multiple small bolts. If bolts are not tight the whole plate moves when you try to change gear and makes getting it into gear very difficult.
If it passes these tests, it is probably in the gearbox....
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
Sent: Thursday, 29 July 2010 9:25 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Hi Kent,
There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it over.
It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
into any gear!
Gordon.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than seat
> belts.
> Kent K.
>
> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do is
>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of a
>> good one, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gordon.
>>
>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> >
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>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From phing at videotron.ca Wed Jul 28 22:32:52 2010
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 23:32:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <445778E72B185D479DA2A30C7C9C7A7D0A72F67A5F@EXCH2007.ltu.edu.au>
References: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
<4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
<AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
<445778E72B185D479DA2A30C7C9C7A7D0A72F67A5F@EXCH2007.ltu.edu.au>
Message-ID: <000601cb2ece$bc4832e0$34d898a0$@ca>
Drain the gear box oil . if it looks like aluminum paint you have the
classic " Rover front lay shaft bearing collapse "
Cheers
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Alex Ward
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
I have a 1960 P5 manual. Check that the clutch is fully declutching. Easy
to tell because if not fully declutching, it will crunch going into first
gear.
If clutch is OK, remove centre mat covering the hump and check the very
large plate which holds the gearstick assembly. It is held down with
multiple small bolts. If bolts are not tight the whole plate moves when you
try to change gear and makes getting it into gear very difficult.
If it passes these tests, it is probably in the gearbox....
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
Sent: Thursday, 29 July 2010 9:25 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Hi Kent,
There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it over.
It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
into any gear!
Gordon.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than seat
> belts.
> Kent K.
>
> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do
is
>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of
a
>> good one, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gordon.
>>
>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:<
>>
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100728
/0fed6a6d/attachment.html
>> >
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au Wed Jul 28 22:47:02 2010
From: A.Ward at latrobe.edu.au (Alex Ward)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 13:47:02 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <000601cb2ece$bc4832e0$34d898a0$@ca>
References: <AANLkTimYHpPhP4u1AsjxDW3KFOSQxjOk3c2qJw_G9H2A@mail.gmail.com>
<4C50BA8C.4020209@att.net>
<AANLkTim5m33V_U=pV6Sg5MfVticQp3kgqCh8Y+pirUAL@mail.gmail.com>
<445778E72B185D479DA2A30C7C9C7A7D0A72F67A5F@EXCH2007.ltu.edu.au>
<000601cb2ece$bc4832e0$34d898a0$@ca>
Message-ID: <445778E72B185D479DA2A30C7C9C7A7D0A72F67A9F@EXCH2007.ltu.edu.au>
When the front layshaft bearing collapses the gearbox is noisy when the car is stationary and idling in neutral. If it is noisy but the noise goes away when you press down the clutch, it is definitely the front layshaft bearing. Mine dies every few years.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Patrick Hiron
Sent: Thursday, 29 July 2010 1:33 PM
To: 'Rovernet'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Drain the gear box oil . if it looks like aluminum paint you have the
classic " Rover front lay shaft bearing collapse "
Cheers
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Alex Ward
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
I have a 1960 P5 manual. Check that the clutch is fully declutching. Easy
to tell because if not fully declutching, it will crunch going into first
gear.
If clutch is OK, remove centre mat covering the hump and check the very
large plate which holds the gearstick assembly. It is held down with
multiple small bolts. If bolts are not tight the whole plate moves when you
try to change gear and makes getting it into gear very difficult.
If it passes these tests, it is probably in the gearbox....
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
Sent: Thursday, 29 July 2010 9:25 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Hi Kent,
There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it over.
It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
into any gear!
Gordon.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than seat
> belts.
> Kent K.
>
> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do
is
>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of
a
>> good one, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gordon.
>>
>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:<
>>
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100728
/0fed6a6d/attachment.html
>> >
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net Thu Jul 29 07:31:36 2010
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 06:31:36 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet ] Self oiling rustproofing system
Message-ID: <1276908B-3ADA-4857-AB32-808CEE0F3DA8@telusplanet.net>
I had the car up on the lift yesterday to refit the bushings of my
gear shift top mount bolts.
While under the car, I noticed I have some oil leakage at the rear of
the gearbox, and the selector shafts were dripping a bit.
This looks like the most probable cause of the leak. I check the
gearbox level often, and its always good.
So not too worried about volume lost, but wondering about what I need
to do to correct this leak.
I may be mistaken, but I think I read in one of the forums that these
can be replaced with the gearbox in situ. Anyone got a play by play
description?
Also, under the bonnet I notice I have some gear oil leakage coming
from the steering box rocker shaft. Is there a seal here that can be
replaced or am I looking at a new box?
Will draining the box and replacing gear oil with a semifluid grease
stop this leak?
Roy
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Thu Jul 29 17:22:07 2010
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:22:07 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Self oiling rustproofing system
In-Reply-To: <1276908B-3ADA-4857-AB32-808CEE0F3DA8@telusplanet.net>
References: <1276908B-3ADA-4857-AB32-808CEE0F3DA8@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <14E3CC0EE3A146558C856EDE45179182@Vista>
The rear main seal can be done, easiest to remove the rear cover off the
gearbox to do it.
I have removed the rear cover in the car (TC).
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:31 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Self oiling rustproofing system
>I had the car up on the lift yesterday to refit the bushings of my gear
>shift top mount bolts.
> While under the car, I noticed I have some oil leakage at the rear of the
> gearbox, and the selector shafts were dripping a bit.
> This looks like the most probable cause of the leak. I check the gearbox
> level often, and its always good.
> So not too worried about volume lost, but wondering about what I need to
> do to correct this leak.
> I may be mistaken, but I think I read in one of the forums that these can
> be replaced with the gearbox in situ. Anyone got a play by play
> description?
> Also, under the bonnet I notice I have some gear oil leakage coming from
> the steering box rocker shaft. Is there a seal here that can be replaced
> or am I looking at a new box?
> Will draining the box and replacing gear oil with a semifluid grease stop
> this leak?
> Roy
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
From veetwinrider at yahoo.com Thu Jul 29 18:36:52 2010
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 16:36:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Message-ID: <510983.390.qm@web180505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Gordon, I recommend you change to synthetic while at it. It made my car shift so much better. Even the guys at Practical Classics commented it was the best shifting P5 they ever drove. Probably the only one too. :-)
roland
nice shifting 1960 P5
'56 Willys pickup
--- On Wed, 7/28/10, Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca> wrote:
From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
To: "'Rovernet'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 28, 2010, 8:32 PM
Drain the gear box oil . if it looks like aluminum paint you have the
classic " Rover front? lay shaft bearing collapse "
Cheers
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Alex Ward
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:26 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
I have a 1960 P5 manual.? Check that the clutch is fully declutching.? Easy
to tell because if not fully declutching, it will crunch going into first
gear.?
If clutch is OK, remove centre mat covering the hump and check the very
large plate which holds the gearstick assembly. It is held down with
multiple small bolts.? If bolts are not tight the whole plate moves when you
try to change gear and makes getting it into gear very difficult.
If it passes these tests, it is probably in the gearbox....
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
Sent: Thursday, 29 July 2010 9:25 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
Hi Kent,
There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it over.
? It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
into any gear!
Gordon.
On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than seat
> belts.
> Kent K.
>
> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt.? What I'd like to do
is
>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of
a
>> good one, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Gordon.
>>
>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:<
>>
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100728
/0fed6a6d/attachment.html
>> >
>> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
>> sure to scroll down the whole page.
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com Thu Jul 29 19:48:17 2010
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 00:48:17 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Self oiling rustproofing system
In-Reply-To: <1276908B-3ADA-4857-AB32-808CEE0F3DA8@telusplanet.net>
References: <1276908B-3ADA-4857-AB32-808CEE0F3DA8@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W10C7DD29B6D3055E6DEC2CB8AA0@phx.gbl>
The steering box will have to come out to replace the oil seal. Filling the box with grease is not an option. Removing and replacing the steering box is a big job, but the seal itself is a standard size and the satisfaction obtained from accomplishing this task is enormous.
The worst phase imo is getting the steering column to marry up with box's input shaft - happy days!!
> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 06:31:36 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Self oiling rustproofing system
>
> I had the car up on the lift yesterday to refit the bushings of my
> gear shift top mount bolts.
> While under the car, I noticed I have some oil leakage at the rear of
> the gearbox, and the selector shafts were dripping a bit.
> This looks like the most probable cause of the leak. I check the
> gearbox level often, and its always good.
> So not too worried about volume lost, but wondering about what I need
> to do to correct this leak.
> I may be mistaken, but I think I read in one of the forums that these
> can be replaced with the gearbox in situ. Anyone got a play by play
> description?
> Also, under the bonnet I notice I have some gear oil leakage coming
> from the steering box rocker shaft. Is there a seal here that can be
> replaced or am I looking at a new box?
> Will draining the box and replacing gear oil with a semifluid grease
> stop this leak?
> Roy
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
_________________________________________________________________
Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/
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From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu Thu Jul 29 20:45:46 2010
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 21:45:46 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
In-Reply-To: <510983.390.qm@web180505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <510983.390.qm@web180505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C522ECA.10005@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Gordon,
Our P4 with the same four speed overdrive gearbox was very difficult to
get into any gear other than fourth before I replaced the clutch. This
car has a mechanical linkage that had already been adjusted for maximum
clutch disengagement. It turned out that the very leaky rear main
crankshaft seal had caused the clutch disc to get soaked.
I believe that the clutch disc had little enough wear at 37,000 miles
that the oil caused it to swell by more than whatever the wear had
removed, and therefore the clutch was dragging even when it was
disengaged as much as possible.
With the new clutch it shifts smoothly into all gears when it is cold,
but it is tricky to get into third (double clutching helps) once it is
warm. I assume that the synchro ring on third may have taken a lot of
abuse during the miles of use with the previous owner while the clutch
was oil-soaked. I keep threathening to try Redline MTL in it and hope
for the results that Roland has had. Apparently many Volvo owners with
4-speed/OD gearboxes are fans of MTL.
Are the clutch master and slave cylinders rebuilt with sleeved bores and
new seals, and all air bled out so that you know for sure that the
clutch is fully disengaging? Can you get into from gear to gear as you
drive by double clutching? If double clutching helps, then that would
suggest worn sychro rings -- most gearboxes get wear on the second gear
sychro before others. Regardless of what the mechanic said, satisfy
yourself that the linkage is not loose before you tear into the gearbox
-- the linkage has plastic pivots like the P6 and these can crack or
crumble, creating lost motion in the shift.
--Steve
On 7/29/2010 7:36 PM, roland wrote:
> Gordon, I recommend you change to synthetic while at it. It made my car shift so much better. Even the guys at Practical Classics commented it was the best shifting P5 they ever drove. Probably the only one too. :-)
>
> roland
> nice shifting 1960 P5
> '56 Willys pickup
>
> --- On Wed, 7/28/10, Patrick Hiron<phing at videotron.ca> wrote:
>
>
> From: Patrick Hiron<phing at videotron.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
> To: "'Rovernet'"<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Wednesday, July 28, 2010, 8:32 PM
>
>
> Drain the gear box oil . if it looks like aluminum paint you have the
> classic " Rover front lay shaft bearing collapse "
> Cheers
> Patrick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Alex Ward
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 11:26 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
>
> I have a 1960 P5 manual. Check that the clutch is fully declutching. Easy
> to tell because if not fully declutching, it will crunch going into first
> gear.
> If clutch is OK, remove centre mat covering the hump and check the very
> large plate which holds the gearstick assembly. It is held down with
> multiple small bolts. If bolts are not tight the whole plate moves when you
> try to change gear and makes getting it into gear very difficult.
> If it passes these tests, it is probably in the gearbox....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Gordon Harrower
> Sent: Thursday, 29 July 2010 9:25 AM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] P5 Gearbox Wanted
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> There's a real problem with the shifting, but it's in the gearbox, not the
> linkage--this the assessment of the former Rover dealer who looked it over.
> It's a little scary to drive because sometimes you simply can't get it
> into any gear!
>
> Gordon.
>
> On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Kent Kinard<kkinard at att.net> wrote:
>
>
>> Ouch!! What seems to be the problem? I may have to send you more than seat
>> belts.
>> Kent K.
>>
>> Gordon Harrower wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> It seems that my P5's gearbox needs to be rebuilt. What I'd like to do
>>>
> is
>
>>> replace it and rebuild the current one as a spare, so if anyone knows of
>>>
> a
>
>>> good one, please let me know.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Gordon.
>>>
>>> 1963 3-Litre Saloon, 4-Speed w/OD
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:<
>>>
>>>
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/private/rovernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20100728
> /0fed6a6d/attachment.html
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From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Jul 30 00:04:02 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 05:04:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W402E8927D0E8C21501D6CBB8A80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <486559543.606522.1280466242340.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
There is a procedure for checking the fit of the pistons with the domes. It involves emptying the oil out of the reservoir, installing the piston into the dome section without the spring, putting a flat washer onto the dome base with a machine screw and nut to retain the piston. You then invert the piston dome assembly, then turn it right side up timing the duration of the fall until it hits the washer. The time should be in the 7 to 9 second range and fall freely with no binding. You can swap components, but the dome and piston are a matched set. I give this procedure so that if you must make up a set from various parts, this is waht you are looking for. I am away from home for another few days and away from my reference material. so, if more detail is needed, I will deal with it at that time. I am working on memory here.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:57:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
At 200 miles that engine will be very tight and thus hard to start. ?Don't worry about using the choke to get it started - give it heaps. ?My guess is that the "don't use excessive choke" mantra is aimed at the one in ten with poorly tuned cars in cold climates who run the vehicle with the choke half out most of the time. ?
My 2000TC with 5000 miles up after a full rebore etc. simply will not start from cold without full choke and it needs partial choke for the first mile or so to run without stalling or lumping - even in summer.
The twin carbs MUST be set up and balanced properly using an absolutely systematic approach - especially with a new-rebored engine - and ideally with a Carbalancer-type tool. Contrary to what the manuals infer, expect to find a significant difference in the mixture and slow-running settings between carbs when you do your adjusting. ?[By the way, an important adjustment [that's underplayed in commercial workshop manuals] is that for lost-motion on the carb linkage - do it wrong and smooth acceleration is compromised.] ?Also make sure that the carb pistons haven't been swapped around if the carb has been torn down for a clean and check during the rebuild process - pistons are matched to carbs during manufacture and if they get changed for a spares under the bench or swapped around, the pistons will bind randomly and make proper adjustment and smooth running impossible.] ?
Carb setup naturally includes getting the twin choke cables right on the line too.
> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:23:41 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
> So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my ?
> rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
> It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had ?
> made some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel ?
> additives),
> I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running ?
> well.
> So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it ?
> liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs ?
> good, and starts again without problems with a warm engine.
> Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with ?
> the choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start ?
> with the choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to ?
> lean out the mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts ?
> until running well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need ?
> to turn the screws clockwise.
> I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to ?
> confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> Thanks in advance.
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
????????????????? ???????? ? ???????????????? ?
_________________________________________________________________
Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/
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From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Jul 30 00:08:02 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 05:08:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8A0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <1390636671.606607.1280466482819.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
The lip is generally called a ridge and must be removed with a ridge reamer, when installing new rings.?If this is not done the top rings will break very quickly.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 3:44:48 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: ?Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
?
W" a tremendous lip in the bores"
What does this mean please?
Thanks, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Netspace
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 7.09
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold though.
I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in the bores). ?I bought it with the engine not installed.
I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
I vouch for the stuff!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied ?and
> would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email ?them to me
> at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke ?when
> restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a ?rebuilt
> engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold ?starts) can
> cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. ?I
> called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his ?69 TC
> for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my ?paranoia
> and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture ?is
> as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be
> sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Jul 30 07:53:03 2010
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:53:03 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: Lip in the bore
In-Reply-To: <1390636671.606607.1280466482819.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959622C8A0@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
<1390636671.606607.1280466482819.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39DB493C9E968A40AD2FA5F90D4B959625953D@E3088LMQ.risorse.enel>
Thanks Slats!
Best regards, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di slatskars at comcast.net
Inviato: venerd? 30 luglio 2010 7.08
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Lip in the bore
The lip is generally called a ridge and must be removed with a ridge reamer, when installing new rings.?If this is not done the top rings will break very quickly.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "gianluca ruotolo" <gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 3:44:48 AM
Subject: [Rovernet ] R: ?Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
?
W" a tremendous lip in the bores"
What does this mean please?
Thanks, GR.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Netspace
Inviato: mercoled? 28 luglio 2010 7.09
A: Rovernet
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
SUs like choke and fast idle for a while, like 5 minutes easy.
When you get the choke right, they start first hit every time off cold though.
I put Nulon new engine treatment (E30 I think) in mine when it was rebuilt in 1981 (rebuilt by previous owner, who said there was a tremendous lip in the bores). ?I bought it with the engine not installed.
I pulled the head off in 1999 and it was perfect in the bores.
I vouch for the stuff!
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> Hi Eric,
> I pulled out the maintenance manual that came with the car and also
> noticed that turning the screw clockwise would enrich the mixture.
> I don't have the later manual with the instructions you have supplied ?
> and would be in your debt if you could scan theses pages and email ?
> them to me at your convenience.
> I am assuming that to begin this procedure, the car needs to be fully
> warmed to cause the choke warning light to be active.
>
> PVS; I have let the engine cool completely and have used the choke ?
> when restarting - runs fine... no shaking with choke....
>
> I have been reading too many posts lately regarding breaking in a ?
> rebuilt engine and several have warned that using the choke (cold ?
> starts) can cause the bores to be washed with gas and cause scoring.
> Also led to believe that in these summer temps, choke was not needed. ?
> I called up my Dad tonight and he said he always needed to choke his ?
> 69 TC for "awhile" when starting no matter what the temp.
> So maybe I have been leading myself and the group astray with my ?
> paranoia and doing too much to ensure a good running in of the engine.
>
> So lesson learned, but I will be retorquing the headbolts soon, and
> utilizing the instructions in the maintenance manual to ensure mixture ?
> is as good as can be.
>
> I do appreciate all the help from the group. I by no means consider
> myself a mechanic, nor do I suffer from delusions of adequacy, I do
> however learn quickly, and hopefully won't cause the group to suffer
> whiplash from shaking their head to much.
>
> Roy
>
>
> To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page.
> Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
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From michaelcane at shaw.ca Fri Jul 30 12:31:44 2010
From: michaelcane at shaw.ca (Michael Cane)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:31:44 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet ] Ridge reaming
Message-ID: <7CD0C5EC35AA43E39D55E994E4911957@UserPC>
I remember fitting new rings to a 2000TC years ago using a Hastings ring set with stepped top rings and thus avoiding ring breakage
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com Sat Jul 31 16:13:53 2010
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:13:53 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <486559543.606522.1280466242340.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BAY120-W402E8927D0E8C21501D6CBB8A80@phx.gbl>,
<486559543.606522.1280466242340.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W26980DED0BBD13DD70C418B8AB0@phx.gbl>
Remove the dome and piston from the carb. Remove the damper. Dry all the interior surfaces. Put a bit of masking tape over the piston air holes. Put piston into dome and push up to the top holding there with finger. Hold assembly in hand, rotate hand and release finger. Time duration of piston drop to base of dome. Use both hands with a piston-dome assembly in each hand for twin carbs - both pistons should fall at approx the same rate. Go to John Twist's University Motors videos on Youtube for a superb film on this procedure.
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 05:04:02 +0000
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
>
>
> There is a procedure for checking the fit of the pistons with the domes. It involves emptying the oil out of the reservoir, installing the piston into the dome section without the spring, putting a flat washer onto the dome base with a machine screw and nut to retain the piston. You then invert the piston dome assembly, then turn it right side up timing the duration of the fall until it hits the washer. The time should be in the 7 to 9 second range and fall freely with no binding. You can swap components, but the dome and piston are a matched set. I give this procedure so that if you must make up a set from various parts, this is waht you are looking for. I am away from home for another few days and away from my reference material. so, if more detail is needed, I will deal with it at that time. I am working on memory here.
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
> To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:57:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
>
> At 200 miles that engine will be very tight and thus hard to start. Don't worry about using the choke to get it started - give it heaps. My guess is that the "don't use excessive choke" mantra is aimed at the one in ten with poorly tuned cars in cold climates who run the vehicle with the choke half out most of the time.
> My 2000TC with 5000 miles up after a full rebore etc. simply will not start from cold without full choke and it needs partial choke for the first mile or so to run without stalling or lumping - even in summer.
> The twin carbs MUST be set up and balanced properly using an absolutely systematic approach - especially with a new-rebored engine - and ideally with a Carbalancer-type tool. Contrary to what the manuals infer, expect to find a significant difference in the mixture and slow-running settings between carbs when you do your adjusting. [By the way, an important adjustment [that's underplayed in commercial workshop manuals] is that for lost-motion on the carb linkage - do it wrong and smooth acceleration is compromised.] Also make sure that the carb pistons haven't been swapped around if the carb has been torn down for a clean and check during the rebuild process - pistons are matched to carbs during manufacture and if they get changed for a spares under the bench or swapped around, the pistons will bind randomly and make proper adjustment and smooth running impossible.]
> Carb setup naturally includes getting the twin choke cables right on the line too.
>
> > From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:23:41 -0600
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> >
> > So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my
> > rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
> > It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had
> > made some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel
> > additives),
> > I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running
> > well.
> > So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it
> > liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs
> > good, and starts again without problems with a warm engine.
> > Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with
> > the choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start
> > with the choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to
> > lean out the mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts
> > until running well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need
> > to turn the screws clockwise.
> > I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to
> > confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Roy
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from the list or change your settings go to this page. Be sure to scroll down the whole page.
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au
> http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/
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From slatskars at comcast.net Sat Jul 31 18:59:18 2010
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:59:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W26980DED0BBD13DD70C418B8AB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2090013748.671467.1280620758105.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Thanks Richard,
This is basically the same procedure that I described, but I forgot to have them plug the holes. The SU book from Burlen fuel Systems, uses the washer at the bottom rather than a finger and times the fall. The end result is the same. If a dome piston assembly is too slow, sometimes a little Bon Ami is enough to? lap it. Burlen Fuel Systems has bought up the manufacturing rights to SU and is manufacturing new carburetors and many parts for them and the SU fuel pumps. You can deal directly with them.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 2:13:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
Remove the dome and piston from the carb. ?Remove the damper. ?Dry all the interior surfaces. Put a bit of masking tape over the piston air holes. ?Put piston into dome and push up to the top holding there with finger. ?Hold assembly in hand, rotate hand and release finger. ?Time duration of piston drop to base of dome. ?Use both hands with a piston-dome assembly in each hand for twin carbs - both pistons should fall at approx the same rate. ?Go to John Twist's University Motors videos on Youtube for a superb film on this procedure.
> Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 05:04:02 +0000
> From: slatskars at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
>
>
> There is a procedure for checking the fit of the pistons with the domes. It involves emptying the oil out of the reservoir, installing the piston into the dome section without the spring, putting a flat washer onto the dome base with a machine screw and nut to retain the piston. You then invert the piston dome assembly, then turn it right side up timing the duration of the fall until it hits the washer. The time should be in the 7 to 9 second range and fall freely with no binding. You can swap components, but the dome and piston are a matched set. I give this procedure so that if you must make up a set from various parts, this is waht you are looking for. I am away from home for another few days and away from my reference material. so, if more detail is needed, I will deal with it at that time. I am working on memory here.
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Sharpe" <trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>
> To: "rover net" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 1:57:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
>
>
> At 200 miles that engine will be very tight and thus hard to start. ?Don't worry about using the choke to get it started - give it heaps. ?My guess is that the "don't use excessive choke" mantra is aimed at the one in ten with poorly tuned cars in cold climates who run the vehicle with the choke half out most of the time. ?
> My 2000TC with 5000 miles up after a full rebore etc. simply will not start from cold without full choke and it needs partial choke for the first mile or so to run without stalling or lumping - even in summer.
> The twin carbs MUST be set up and balanced properly using an absolutely systematic approach - especially with a new-rebored engine - and ideally with a Carbalancer-type tool. Contrary to what the manuals infer, expect to find a significant difference in the mixture and slow-running settings between carbs when you do your adjusting. ?[By the way, an important adjustment [that's underplayed in commercial workshop manuals] is that for lost-motion on the carb linkage - do it wrong and smooth acceleration is compromised.] ?Also make sure that the carb pistons haven't been swapped around if the carb has been torn down for a clean and check during the rebuild process - pistons are matched to carbs during manufacture and if they get changed for a spares under the bench or swapped around, the pistons will bind randomly and make proper adjustment and smooth running impossible.] ?
> Carb setup naturally includes getting the twin choke cables right on the line too.
>
> > From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:23:41 -0600
> > Subject: [Rovernet ] Rough starting Federal 2000 TC
> >
> > So as I may have alluded to, I have a bit over 200 miles now on my ?
> > rebuilt and overbored 2000 (2200) TC engine.
> > It began running rough at start up about 2 weeks ago, and as I had ?
> > made some changes to it's diet (different gas station, some fuel ?
> > additives),
> > I was waiting to run out the fuel and start from where it was running ?
> > well.
> > So back to square 1, questionable fuel run out, filled with what it ?
> > liked and still, it wants to shake and shudder until warm, then runs ?
> > good, and starts again without problems with a warm engine.
> > Called my engine shop and they suggested trying to start the car with ?
> > the choke activated. I have tried this, and the car would not start ?
> > with the choke engaged. Discussed this with the shop and they said to ?
> > lean out the mixture, turning the mixture screws equal small amounts ?
> > until running well again. The shop owner thinks to lean it out I need ?
> > to turn the screws clockwise.
> > I will try this but wanted to check in with the resident experts to ?
> > confirm which way I want to turn the screw.
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Roy
> >
> >
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