>
From vern at inkspotco.com  Tue Sep  1 00:04:41 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:04:41 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <23300C2A-653D-4B24-93B0-FCC24E8AAF10@inkspotco.com>

Sounds like total failure of the nylon bushing that the gear lever  
ball rides in. I've never seen that happen, but it could I suppose.  
When you say came out completely, you have complete gear lever with a  
big steel ball and a smaller plastic ball on the end? I ask because  
the gear levers do break from time to time, just above the big steel  
ball.

Repair is trivial, and the nylon seat is still obtainable.

Yours
Vern

On 2009-08-31, at 8:56 PM, pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Gents,
> Today was the final straw with the Rover TC.
>
> I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I  
> made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!
>
> I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I  
> fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home all  
> the way in second?
>
> Tomorrow I will investigate?
>
> Any ideas/info will be appreciated?
>
> Cheers,
> Peter Holbrook
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no- 
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Tue Sep  1 00:38:25 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 14:38:25 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7CFA9D208D9349238050143B2AC73782@Vista>

The plastic bush has crumbled.
I think Scotts has them.

PVS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
  To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


          Gents,
          Today was the final straw with the Rover TC.

          I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!

          I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home all the way in second?

          Tomorrow I will investigate?

          Any ideas/info will be appreciated?

          Cheers,
          Peter Holbrook 



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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  Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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  http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Tue Sep  1 03:56:25 2009
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (James Dean)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 00:56:25 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <7CFA9D208D9349238050143B2AC73782@Vista>
References: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<7CFA9D208D9349238050143B2AC73782@Vista>
Message-ID: <5DF1A69662C44271AA5C614DF88DDD80@JamesDeanPC1>

I had been told to try Dip-it, the liquid plastic sold in the hardware stores, to coat tool mhandles;.. to build up a Rover shift ball. Let it dry, then dip it again, to slowly build it up to the desired size. Has anyone tried that? I do not know if it works and holds up; but it would be worth an experiment. James Dean, Ft. Lauderdale.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Netspace 
  To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net ; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
  Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


  The plastic bush has crumbled.
  I think Scotts has them.

  PVS
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
    To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
    Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
    Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


            Gents,
            Today was the final straw with the Rover TC.

            I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!

            I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home all the way in second?

            Tomorrow I will investigate?

            Any ideas/info will be appreciated?

            Cheers,
            Peter Holbrook 



----------------------------------------------------------------------------


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    http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Tue Sep  1 06:54:04 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 07:54:04 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
References: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP820F8612E2B1D260B11F9595F10@phx.gbl>

Hi Peter
           Not too serious Peter. First move center console don't forget the phillips screw hidden under the front part of the hand brake rubber boot.Screw off the gear knob and chrome trim. Remove console and find three bolts holding the gear lever rod. When you get this out you will see what is needed. They nylon bushing is probably shot. It can be repaired by using a tough piece of reenforced plastic hose. Use heat gun to slip it into place then slide a piece of metal tube over it to bring it up to size (I think approx 20mm) Re-install everything and you are on your way!
                                             Good Luck Ben.




Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From RoverP6 at gmx.de  Tue Sep  1 11:53:12 2009
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 17:53:12 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 differential problems - Hamden/New
	York - help wanted
References: <774478930908292328gabaec0bm5a9320cfb9cfdb15@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <11510C5A8A3D410E806C9730636817D3@rw>


Just got this email:

"In happier days, I sent you a complete essay of my P6. These days I'm 
grounded for a differential problem and need to repair or replace my 
differential.  It's completely warn right axle bearings and seal that 
have me parked I'm at P.O. Box xx Hamden, NY 137xx"

(xx = data protection - of course I have complete postal and email 
address)

If someone can help, please write directly to my email address 
RoverP6 at gmx.de - I would forward your message to the gentleman in 
Hamden.

Thanks,
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info





From ianalice at shaw.ca  Tue Sep  1 12:26:29 2009
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:26:29 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <7CFA9D208D9349238050143B2AC73782@Vista>
References: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<7CFA9D208D9349238050143B2AC73782@Vista>
Message-ID: <8730652C87434055ADABF3900E1D84AB@IandAlicePC>

Fairly quick solution is to buy a garden hose splitter fitting.  The spheres within the fitting,(after you hacksaw it open) will almost fit the end of the gear lever.  Drill out the hole a little more to fit the ball on the gearshift, then epoxy it to the shaft.  It works well!!   Ian Potts
  From: Netspace 
  To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net ; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
  Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


  The plastic bush has crumbled.
  I think Scotts has them.

  PVS
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
    To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
    Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
    Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


            Gents,
            Today was the final straw with the Rover TC.

            I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!

            I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home all the way in second?

            Tomorrow I will investigate?

            Any ideas/info will be appreciated?

            Cheers,
            Peter Holbrook 



----------------------------------------------------------------------------


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    Rovernet at rovernet.ca
    Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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    http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
    Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Tue Sep  1 12:33:17 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:33:17 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <SNT105-W30BC4CD9387D179625E3DD8EF30@phx.gbl>
	<136164.70636.qm@web83004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE3014C3140@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>

Dear friends, it is not so uncommon.
 
The same happened to a friend of mine with his Ford capri produced in 1969.
In 1990n we made toghether in his car a travel from Italy to poland and we had a spare lever to solve the problem.
 
It never happened again.
 
Best regards, Gianluca.

  _____  

Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net
Inviato: marted? 1 settembre 2009 5.57
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?




Gents,
Today was the final straw with the Rover TC.
 
I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!
 
I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home all the way in second?
 
Tomorrow I will investigate?
 
Any ideas/info will be appreciated?
 
Cheers,
Peter Holbrook

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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 12:55:13 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:55:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <8730652C87434055ADABF3900E1D84AB@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <927188.4545.qm@web83006.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks Ian, 
I'll try it mate,

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca> wrote:


From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 9:26 AM





Fairly quick solution is to buy a garden hose splitter fitting.? The spheres within the fitting,(after you hacksaw it open) will almost fit the end of the gear lever.? Drill out the hole a little more to fit the ball on the gearshift, then epoxy it to the shaft.? It works well!!?? Ian Potts

From: Netspace 
To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net ; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


The plastic bush has crumbled.
I think Scotts has them.
?
PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?







Gents,
Today was the final straw with?the Rover TC.
?
I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!
?
I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home?all the way in second?
?
Tomorrow I will investigate?
?
Any ideas/info will be appreciated?
?
Cheers,
Peter Holbrook



_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 12:55:42 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:55:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <8730652C87434055ADABF3900E1D84AB@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <219498.5754.qm@web83003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks Ian, 
I'll try it mate,

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca> wrote:


From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 9:26 AM





Fairly quick solution is to buy a garden hose splitter fitting.? The spheres within the fitting,(after you hacksaw it open) will almost fit the end of the gear lever.? Drill out the hole a little more to fit the ball on the gearshift, then epoxy it to the shaft.? It works well!!?? Ian Potts

From: Netspace 
To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net ; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


The plastic bush has crumbled.
I think Scotts has them.
?
PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?







Gents,
Today was the final straw with?the Rover TC.
?
I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!
?
I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home?all the way in second?
?
Tomorrow I will investigate?
?
Any ideas/info will be appreciated?
?
Cheers,
Peter Holbrook



_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 12:56:31 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <8730652C87434055ADABF3900E1D84AB@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <718910.2070.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'll give it a try Ian!

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca> wrote:


From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 9:26 AM





Fairly quick solution is to buy a garden hose splitter fitting.? The spheres within the fitting,(after you hacksaw it open) will almost fit the end of the gear lever.? Drill out the hole a little more to fit the ball on the gearshift, then epoxy it to the shaft.? It works well!!?? Ian Potts

From: Netspace 
To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net ; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?


The plastic bush has crumbled.
I think Scotts has them.
?
PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?







Gents,
Today was the final straw with?the Rover TC.
?
I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!
?
I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home?all the way in second?
?
Tomorrow I will investigate?
?
Any ideas/info will be appreciated?
?
Cheers,
Peter Holbrook



_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From vern at inkspotco.com  Tue Sep  1 13:02:58 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 10:02:58 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
In-Reply-To: <718910.2070.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <718910.2070.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <127B26D1-176C-4012-BA8E-0D6E1911F638@inkspotco.com>

Hold on folks, we are giving two set of solutions here. As I take it,  
Peter's problem is the large nylon bush that the gear lever rides in  
has failed, not the smaller ball at the end of the shift lever that  
goes into operating rod. Ian's fix here is for the latter, not the  
former.

Yours
Vern

On 2009-09-01, at 9:56 AM, pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> I'll give it a try Ian!
>
> --- On Tue, 9/1/09, Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> From: Alice and Ian Potts <ianalice at shaw.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca 
> >
> Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 9:26 AM
>
> Fairly quick solution is to buy a garden hose splitter fitting.  The  
> spheres within the fitting,(after you hacksaw it open) will almost  
> fit the end of the gear lever.  Drill out the hole a little more to  
> fit the ball on the gearshift, then epoxy it to the shaft.  It works  
> well!!   Ian Potts
> From: Netspace
> To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net ; The original list for Rover car  
> enthusiasts.
> Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
>
> The plastic bush has crumbled.
> I think Scotts has them.
>
> PVS
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 1:56 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] gear lever came loose problem?
>
> Gents,
> Today was the final straw with the Rover TC.
>
> I have been testing it driving on Mt Diablo, leaving the mountain I  
> made a shift, and the gear lever came out completely!
>
> I tried to put it back in and it dropped through the mechanism, I  
> fiddled and by holding the base I got second gear and drove home all  
> the way in second?
>
> Tomorrow I will investigate?
>
> Any ideas/info will be appreciated?
>
> Cheers,
> Peter Holbrook
> _______________________________________________
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> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.73/2338 - Release Date:  
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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 18:09:36 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:09:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good news
	and a brake question
In-Reply-To: <8730652C87434055ADABF3900E1D84AB@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <466550.47600.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>




?








?
Many thanks to you all?for your patience and information!
?
I pulled the gear lever out and the nylon seat had disintergrated and the bulb at the bottom of the gear lever was badly worn.
?
I decide to look through every part I ever got with the?Rovers.
?
In the bottom of a box of used bits was a gear lever with a perfect nylon seat and bottom ball, I could not believe my eyes, infact I am still in disbelieve.
?
I installed it in minutes, adding grease and it shifts like new? infact it was always hard to get reverse and now it works perfectly.
?
I have a brake question, with the car jacked up,?my front left wheel spins about 3 times and stops, the right wheel has to be pushed around as the brake pads drag, is there an adjustment I can make to lessen the drag to match the other wheel?
?
Cheers,
Peter Holbrook
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Tue Sep  1 18:49:15 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 08:49:15 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand
	a brake question
In-Reply-To: <466550.47600.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <466550.47600.qm@web83005.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0AA245E4D3CC4385A2C41B7B3D908CBF@Vista>

It could be the wheel bearings.  The right ones may be too tight.
However the left wheel is spinning too easily; are the pads touching at all?    Does the caliper work?
The left side is more suspect.

PVS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
  To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 8:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a brake question





                   

              Many thanks to you all for your patience and information! 
                
              I pulled the gear lever out and the nylon seat had disintergrated and the bulb at the bottom of the gear lever was badly worn. 
                
              I decide to look through every part I ever got with the Rovers. 
                
              In the bottom of a box of used bits was a gear lever with a perfect nylon seat and bottom ball, I could not believe my eyes, infact I am still in disbelieve. 
                
              I installed it in minutes, adding grease and it shifts like new? infact it was always hard to get reverse and now it works perfectly. 
                
              I have a brake question, with the car jacked up, my front left wheel spins about 3 times and stops, the right wheel has to be pushed around as the brake pads drag, is there an adjustment I can make to lessen the drag to match the other wheel? 
                
              Cheers, 
              Peter Holbrook 



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 20:18:26 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 17:18:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My joy was short lived!
Message-ID: <649402.56986.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>


Its definately the pads draging more on the right and both calipers work!
?
But a more?serious problem just came to light.
?
The gearbox slips in an out of all?gears perfectly with the engine off!
?
But with the engine running its very hard to get in gear!
?
You can put it in gear hold the clutch in the start the car and pull away no problem a.
?
The clutch bites about an inch from the floor but getting 1st and 2nd?is very hard indeed.

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:o


From: Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a brake question
To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 3:49 PM





It could be the wheel bearings.? The right ones may be too tight.
However the left wheel is spinning too easily; are the pads touching at all???? Does the caliper work?
The left side is more suspect.
?
PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a brake question









?








?
Many thanks to you all?for your patience and information! 
? 
I pulled the gear lever out and the nylon seat had disintergrated and the bulb at the bottom of the gear lever was badly worn. 
? 
I decide to look through every part I ever got with the?Rovers. 
? 
In the bottom of a box of used bits was a gear lever with a perfect nylon seat and bottom ball, I could not believe my eyes, infact I am still in disbelieve. 
? 
I installed it in minutes, adding grease and it shifts like new? infact it was always hard to get reverse and now it works perfectly. 
? 
I have a brake question, with the car jacked up,?my front left wheel spins about 3 times and stops, the right wheel has to be pushed around as the brake pads drag, is there an adjustment I can make to lessen the drag to match the other wheel? 
? 
Cheers, 
Peter Holbrook



_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From ianalice at shaw.ca  Tue Sep  1 20:57:26 2009
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 17:57:26 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My joy was short lived!
In-Reply-To: <649402.56986.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <649402.56986.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <82A529A6349A482EA51C799718B71BDC@IandAlicePC>

Sounds like a caliper rebuild is in order, plus a new gallon or two of brake fluid flush.   Do these in reverse order and maybe there will be an improvement.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
  To: Netspace ; rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 5:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My joy was short lived!


        Its definately the pads draging more on the right and both calipers work!

        But a more serious problem just came to light.

        The gearbox slips in an out of all gears perfectly with the engine off!

        But with the engine running its very hard to get in gear!

        You can put it in gear hold the clutch in the start the car and pull away no problem a.

        The clutch bites about an inch from the floor but getting 1st and 2nd is very hard indeed.

        --- On Tue, 9/1/09, Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:o


          From: Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
          Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a brake question
          To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
          Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 3:49 PM


          It could be the wheel bearings.  The right ones may be too tight.
          However the left wheel is spinning too easily; are the pads touching at all?    Does the caliper work?
          The left side is more suspect.

          PVS
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
            To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
            Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 8:09 AM
            Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a brake question





                             

                        Many thanks to you all for your patience and information! 
                          
                        I pulled the gear lever out and the nylon seat had disintergrated and the bulb at the bottom of the gear lever was badly worn. 
                          
                        I decide to look through every part I ever got with the Rovers. 
                          
                        In the bottom of a box of used bits was a gear lever with a perfect nylon seat and bottom ball, I could not believe my eyes, infact I am still in disbelieve. 
                          
                        I installed it in minutes, adding grease and it shifts like new? infact it was always hard to get reverse and now it works perfectly. 
                          
                        I have a brake question, with the car jacked up, my front left wheel spins about 3 times and stops, the right wheel has to be pushed around as the brake pads drag, is there an adjustment I can make to lessen the drag to match the other wheel? 
                          
                        Cheers, 
                        Peter Holbrook 


--------------------------------------------------------------------

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            http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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            http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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  Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  1 21:17:08 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 21:17:08 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a
	brake question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.14.1251853042.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.14.1251853042.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W21A9268065674ED7551CC88EF00@phx.gbl>



Sound like you may be low on clutch fluid in your clutch fluid reserviour. You may have a leaky slave cylinder. Have a look underneath an see if there is fluid leaking out of the slave cylinder. This happened to me, and I had noticed that I was having some trouble engaging gears, shortly before my foot straight to the floor, and I had to drive home without the clutch. A new seal kit is available from Rock Auto, for about 6 dollars, plus shipping. Beck arnley part number is 0710251. You can also buy the whole new slave cylinder, 0724310 for 66 dollars. If you hydraulics are fine, there there is an adjustment described in the manual, with the arm, on the splined shaft. You may want to consider resleeving the slave cylinder in stainless, and if you look in the archives there was a discussion about this a few months ago on Rovernet.

 

James.

_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackToSchool_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1
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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep  1 21:27:13 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:27:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand
	a brake question
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W21A9268065674ED7551CC88EF00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <142035.25728.qm@web83003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

James I put a new slave in a few months ago, could it be the master failing, its full of fluid.
?
Theres no cruching, it just will not easily go into gear with the engine running?

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: James Radcliffe <j_radcliffe at hotmail.com>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] great gear lever story! good newsand a brake question
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 6:17 PM




#yiv1286653710 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv1286653710 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}


Sound like you may be low on clutch fluid in your clutch fluid reserviour. You may have a leaky slave cylinder. Have a look underneath an see if there is fluid leaking out of the slave cylinder. This happened to me, and I had noticed that I was having some trouble engaging gears, shortly before my foot straight to the floor, and I had to drive home without the clutch. A new seal kit is available from Rock Auto, for about 6 dollars, plus shipping. Beck arnley part number is 0710251. You can also buy the whole new slave cylinder, 0724310 for 66 dollars. If you hydraulics are fine, there there is an adjustment described in the manual, with the arm, on the splined shaft. You may want to consider resleeving the slave cylinder in stainless, and if you look in the archives there was a discussion about this a few months ago on Rovernet.
?
James.



Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now. 
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From gofanu at cust.usachoice.net  Wed Sep  2 00:53:47 2009
From: gofanu at cust.usachoice.net (Fletcher Millmore)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 00:53:47 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Peter's gearbox, etc
In-Reply-To: <mailman.14.1251853042.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.14.1251853042.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <4A9DFA5B.4010707@usachoice.net>

New trouble = Clutch hydraulics are going away , synchros won't let it 
go into gear.
Brake problem = Check that calipers are free and clean. Either a piston 
is hung up or the hose is bad, retaining pressure.
This is a car that had been sitting I believe? If so, expect all the 
hydraulics to fail sequentially as it loosens up.
Shifter. Once my wife came in waving the 2000 shift stick. Seems it came 
out on a 2-3 shift in traffic, she stuck it back in on the fly, went 
about her business,  and drove home, no problem. Brought it in so she 
didn't have to describe the problem, Standard Rover issue, which is why 
you found the bits in the box.

FRM


From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Wed Sep  2 04:14:51 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 10:14:51 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  colour on P6 / NZ
In-Reply-To: <927777D875B84F898C91BFF70790FA3F@rw>
References: <009101ca18b0$46817380$0100000a@homea7f046a5f4><150774.2847.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com><003e01ca1a54$2bd75db0$0100000a@homea7f046a5f4>
	<927777D875B84F898C91BFF70790FA3F@rw>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE3014C32E4@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>

Very very beautiful with a very rare colour.
Best regards, Gianluca. 

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di RoverP6 at gmx.de
Inviato: venerd? 14 agosto 2009 23.49
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] colour on P6 / NZ

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Rover/3500/auction-235581222.htm


Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info


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From jaguru at bellsouth.net  Wed Sep  2 14:14:42 2009
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (James Dean)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 11:14:42 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rubber window seals, 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <4A9DFA5B.4010707@usachoice.net>
References: <mailman.14.1251853042.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<4A9DFA5B.4010707@usachoice.net>
Message-ID: <1B71247E737F4E43913DE943CB50730A@JamesDeanPC1>

Could someone please give me Ruth's phone number? I have need for some 
rubber window seals, also some new dust seals on the doors. Is she the best 
source? James Dean
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fletcher Millmore" <gofanu at cust.usachoice.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:53 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Peter's gearbox, etc


> New trouble = Clutch hydraulics are going away , synchros won't let it go 
> into gear.
> Brake problem = Check that calipers are free and clean. Either a piston is 
> hung up or the hose is bad, retaining pressure.
> This is a car that had been sitting I believe? If so, expect all the 
> hydraulics to fail sequentially as it loosens up.
> Shifter. Once my wife came in waving the 2000 shift stick. Seems it came 
> out on a 2-3 shift in traffic, she stuck it back in on the fly, went about 
> her business,  and drove home, no problem. Brought it in so she didn't 
> have to describe the problem, Standard Rover issue, which is why you found 
> the bits in the box.
>
> FRM
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 




From kkinard at att.net  Wed Sep  2 12:01:13 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 11:01:13 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rubber window seals, 2000TC
In-Reply-To: <1B71247E737F4E43913DE943CB50730A@JamesDeanPC1>
References: <mailman.14.1251853042.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>	<4A9DFA5B.4010707@usachoice.net>
	<1B71247E737F4E43913DE943CB50730A@JamesDeanPC1>
Message-ID: <4A9E96C9.9030802@att.net>

Ruth can be reached on 604-294-5747.

James Dean wrote:
> Could someone please give me Ruth's phone number? I have need for some 
> rubber window seals, also some new dust seals on the doors. Is she the 
> best source? James Dean
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fletcher Millmore" 
> <gofanu at cust.usachoice.net>
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:53 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Peter's gearbox, etc
>
>
>> New trouble = Clutch hydraulics are going away , synchros won't let 
>> it go into gear.
>> Brake problem = Check that calipers are free and clean. Either a 
>> piston is hung up or the hose is bad, retaining pressure.
>> This is a car that had been sitting I believe? If so, expect all the 
>> hydraulics to fail sequentially as it loosens up.
>> Shifter. Once my wife came in waving the 2000 shift stick. Seems it 
>> came out on a 2-3 shift in traffic, she stuck it back in on the fly, 
>> went about her business,  and drove home, no problem. Brought it in 
>> so she didn't have to describe the problem, Standard Rover issue, 
>> which is why you found the bits in the box.
>>
>> FRM
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>



From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep  2 12:03:45 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 09:03:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Peter's gearbox, etc
In-Reply-To: <4A9DFA5B.4010707@usachoice.net>
Message-ID: <217285.19515.qm@web83001.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thankyou!

--- On Tue, 9/1/09, Fletcher Millmore <gofanu at cust.usachoice.net> wrote:


From: Fletcher Millmore <gofanu at cust.usachoice.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Peter's gearbox, etc
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 9:53 PM


New trouble = Clutch hydraulics are going away , synchros won't let it go into gear.
Brake problem = Check that calipers are free and clean. Either a piston is hung up or the hose is bad, retaining pressure.
This is a car that had been sitting I believe? If so, expect all the hydraulics to fail sequentially as it loosens up.
Shifter. Once my wife came in waving the 2000 shift stick. Seems it came out on a 2-3 shift in traffic, she stuck it back in on the fly, went about her business,? and drove home, no problem. Brought it in so she didn't have to describe the problem, Standard Rover issue, which is why you found the bits in the box.

FRM

_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From kgrubz at gmail.com  Wed Sep  2 15:37:23 2009
From: kgrubz at gmail.com (kyle Gruber)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 15:37:23 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection to
	carburation
Message-ID: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>

the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south. instead of
trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much rather carb. the motor.
it seems that this may reduce the headaches of playing with the stock fuel
injection. is this a good alternative?
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From rovercar at comcast.net  Wed Sep  2 18:00:45 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 18:00:45 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection
	to	carburation
In-Reply-To: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>

kyle Gruber wrote:
> the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south. instead 
> of trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much rather carb. 
> the motor. it seems that this may reduce the headaches of playing with 
> the stock fuel injection. is this a good alternative?
Kyle, what country do you live in?

Based on my personal experiences, I would suggest that you get some 
advice from someone who knows the EFI system well before you bail out on 
it.  Some large symptoms are fixed by simply resoldering some leads in 
the ECU. Since the ECU is located conveniently under the passenger side 
floor, it's easy to get at. Also, swapping in a "known-good" ECU 
borrowed from a friend will definitely let you know if the ECU is the 
problem. I think I've heard of people swapping in some easily obtainable 
injectors from more common cars.

The engine with the EFI is a somewhat more refined runner than one that 
has been converted to a carb setup. If you like to tinker, the carb 
might be a fun way to go, but you'd have to get the carb, an intake 
manifold, rig up a new linkage and probably install a manual choke.

I bought an SD1 with a Holley 390 carb and could never get it set up 
correctly. It's great for tinkerers and for racers, but it really didn't 
suit the engine for daily driving and smooth running. It could be set up 
to go like hell, but it wouldn't necessarily idle at the traffic lights. 
Holleys can be adjusted and modified in many ways, and some people love 
that, but you have to disassemble the carb and deal with puddles of 
petrol for most changes.

I later bought a Carter/Weber carb for the car. I put it on as it came 
out of the box and the car ran quite well. You can optimize it somewhat 
for the engine by buying an inexpensive set of jets, springs and 
whatnot. All mods can be made with it on the engine without spilling a 
drop of gasoline. The car ran very well with this setup.

Still, I'd make a stab at fixing the EFI, if it were my car.

Was Frank Buxton the guru on this system, guys?

Glen


From fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us  Wed Sep  2 20:00:24 2009
From: fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us (fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 20:00:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Parting 1970 3500s NADA
Message-ID: <cc1136efa009519928feda97857a6ef8.squirrel@mail.suffolk.lib.ny.us>

Hi Rover folks,

            Been a long time since I've communicated here, hows everyone ?

            Reason for writing now.

            Parting out my 1970 NADA 3500s with 64K miles.
            I'm the second owner, has not been run in probably 3 years .
Put to sleep properly , oiled engine , drained fuel .

            Interior ok , rear center arm rest seam split, Slight wear on
side of drivers seat. Black interior .
            All body panels are there, rusty wings, slightly dented boot(
trunk) ,
triple scooped bonnet, doors are usable. Bumpers are rusty. All glass is
good.
Carpets in front are shot,
            Car ran very well when put into outside storage, Transmission
was rebuilt VERY well at about 56K .

             This is an airconditioned car and I am keeping all things
that have to do with the A/C.

             Wheels on car are 3500sdi but the proper wheel covers are in
boot.

             I really want to part this car out and will be as reasonable
as I can with prices. You are welcome to come and remove
stuff yourself and save lots of money, my time removing ,
packing, and shipping.

             Please ask any questions  either here or give me a call,
contact info is below.

            Car is in Sag Harbor NY , on the east end of Long Island, 100
miles from NYC.

Pete McArdle     631 725 3921        or        fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us



From kkinard at att.net  Wed Sep  2 23:21:29 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 2009 22:21:29 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection
	to	carburation
In-Reply-To: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A9F3639.7020902@att.net>

Hi Kyle,
As Glen stated, the conversion to carb is certainly easy to do, though 
there is expense.  In addition to the carb, manifold, and linkage, you 
will need to replace the fuel pump or install a bypass type fuel 
pressure regulator since the efi fuel pump puts out too much pressure 
for the carb.  The Weber/Carter carbs run reasonably well right out of 
the box and the 500cmf is more than enough for a 3.5 litre Rover. I do 
have one engine running well on a 390  Holley but you must install the 
blow out relief for the power valve or you will be replacing power 
valves every time the engine coughs or backfires.  If you need an intake 
manifold, the Buick/Olds piece is as good as any aftermarket intake and 
is often available on Ebay for $75-$100.

Like Glen, I would urge you to work on the EFI.  It is not inherently 
complex and the engine runs smoother, cleaner and with better economy 
using EFI.  I would encourage you to borrow or buy Roger Williams' 
recent book, "How to Improve Triumph TR7, TR7-V8, TR8" Veloce Publishing 
2006.  The TR8 shares the 4CU injection system with the SD1.  The book 
has an extensive section on this issue.  Lucas 4CU Injectors can be 
rebuilt, usually locally, and if you have more than one set, they can be 
flow matched to give a set with less variation.  These injectors are 
also used by Volkswagen Type 3 engines.  Glen mentioned that Franc 
Buxton used to rebuild the 4CU ECU's.  I haven't heard from Franc 
lately.  <www.stunnedbuffalo.demon.co.uk> or just google "stunned buffalo"

The Federal EFI system can deliver at least 200 HP and has few inherent 
flaws other than age.  One addition required is a rising rate fuel 
pressure regulator to correct for a high speed lean condition.  I think 
these are available from RPi in the UK.  They sometimes list them on 
their US Ebay site.

If your car is subject to emissions testing, you really have no choice 
but to stick with the EFI as the carb will not pass even a visual 
inspection.  In most places the SD1 is old enough to qualify as an 
antique and inspections are more lax.  Texas is fortunate in that 
antiques are exempted from inspections. :-)

Contact me off list if you have specific needs for hardware as I have 
several used 4CU systems and many components.

Be aware that engine problems on SD1's may be related to ignition, 
camshaft and/or timing chain issues as well.  If the engine has more 
than 80,000 miles these areas need attention.

Once sorted, the SD1 is a joy to drive and we will do all we can to help 
you in the process.

Roverly,
Kent K.

kyle Gruber wrote:
> the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south. instead 
> of trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much rather carb. 
> the motor. it seems that this may reduce the headaches of playing with 
> the stock fuel injection. is this a good alternative?
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com  Wed Sep  2 23:45:04 2009
From: R.Thornton at adelaidecitycouncil.com (Robert Thornton)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 13:15:04 +0930
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel
	injection	to	carburation
In-Reply-To: <4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <816735D7904A6C42A6D5B0DDFC0EAB4E15C28D0C2F@ACCMX01.adelaide.sa.gov.au>

Hi Kyle

For a daily driver EFI is probably preferable - provided it runs as it should do, reliably. And the SD1 system can be made to do that, but you may have to do some testing/replacing of some of the sensors, injectors, wiring, etc

Having said that twin SUs can also be very good, easy to install and not too bad to keep in tune.

My 4.6 SD1 has an Edlebrock 500 which once jetted right (I recommend investing in the jetting kit) is a fit and forget proposition. It's extremely easy to swap needles, jets, springs around in the carb to experiment with different settings until you find the optimum. Mine has a manual choke and a thermal spacer between the carb and the Performer inlet maniflod to assist with heat dissipation.

But this is an occasional-use car not an everyday driver, with a hot cam, worked heads, etc. although it idles down to 800rpm and can be driven in city traffic if need be.

For a 3.5 the Edelbrock/Weber normally needs to be jetted down as they're intended for bigger 5.0 litre V8s out of the box (depending who you buy it from).

Another option is to ditch the SD1's flapper set up and install the 14CUX hotwire system off a late'80s to 1998 Land Rover (3.9 classic RR or Discovery 1 and many model TVRs). This is a much more reliable system, relativley simple and quite crude by today's standards, but it gets the job done and the ECU contains an EPROM fuel chip which on post 1994 Discoveries / TVRs is easily upgradable. This controls the fuel delivery only, a conventional distributor looks after the ignition.

Apart from replacing a TPS sensor this system has never faulted on my Disco during the past 15 years. It'll bolt straight onto an SD1 (see the Stunned Buffalo website for details). A uselful upgrade is to swap out the Lucas injectors in favour of 4.6/5.0 litre Ford Mustang Racing C302 injectors available from FiveOmotorsport, Mustangs Unlimited, Summit, etc - they provide better fuel atomization for smoother running. I recommend the non-cat version of the hotwire system as it's the simplest (as fitted to some 4.5/5.0 TVRs and Aussie market Discos).

Of course, there are countless aftermarket ECU systems around nowadays, most full on fuel/ignition control units, others interceptor types. Most are still fairly expensive and you have to add to the purchase price the cost of specialist dyno time to set them up.

Cheers

Rob


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Glen Wilson
Sent: Thursday, 3 September 2009 7:31 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection to carburation

kyle Gruber wrote:
> the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south. instead
> of trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much rather carb.
> the motor. it seems that this may reduce the headaches of playing with
> the stock fuel injection. is this a good alternative?
Kyle, what country do you live in?

Based on my personal experiences, I would suggest that you get some
advice from someone who knows the EFI system well before you bail out on
it.  Some large symptoms are fixed by simply resoldering some leads in
the ECU. Since the ECU is located conveniently under the passenger side
floor, it's easy to get at. Also, swapping in a "known-good" ECU
borrowed from a friend will definitely let you know if the ECU is the
problem. I think I've heard of people swapping in some easily obtainable
injectors from more common cars.

The engine with the EFI is a somewhat more refined runner than one that
has been converted to a carb setup. If you like to tinker, the carb
might be a fun way to go, but you'd have to get the carb, an intake
manifold, rig up a new linkage and probably install a manual choke.

I bought an SD1 with a Holley 390 carb and could never get it set up
correctly. It's great for tinkerers and for racers, but it really didn't
suit the engine for daily driving and smooth running. It could be set up
to go like hell, but it wouldn't necessarily idle at the traffic lights.
Holleys can be adjusted and modified in many ways, and some people love
that, but you have to disassemble the carb and deal with puddles of
petrol for most changes.

I later bought a Carter/Weber carb for the car. I put it on as it came
out of the box and the car ran quite well. You can optimize it somewhat
for the engine by buying an inexpensive set of jets, springs and
whatnot. All mods can be made with it on the engine without spilling a
drop of gasoline. The car ran very well with this setup.

Still, I'd make a stab at fixing the EFI, if it were my car.

Was Frank Buxton the guru on this system, guys?

Glen

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Thu Sep  3 08:42:26 2009
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 06:42:26 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Tyre pressure decal
Message-ID: <COL111-DS856263F6B85EE08C3E48983EF0@phx.gbl>

Does anyone have a P6 (2000 or 3500) with the original tyre pressure decal on their car.  I am trying to determine where the correct placement is----on the edge of the driver's door or opposite the door along the B pillar?

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Lance La Certe  '70P6B  
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Thu Sep  3 20:17:59 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (rababiuk at telusplanet.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 18:17:59 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] tyre pressure decal
Message-ID: <29397663.1462867.1252023479725.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edmwes92>

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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Fri Sep  4 00:45:49 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2009 21:45:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fixed it thanks for the help! could
	have done it with out you all!
Message-ID: <703436.99839.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>


Gentlemen,
Many Thanks for your input and?helping me understand what seems obvious to you all,
?
I had installed a new master and slave and bled it last year, but only recently got the car on the road.
?
It was hard to shift, so the extra force I used to change gears broke the gear lever!
?
Today?I took everyones input and first adjusted the pedal until it was level with the brake pedal the I adjusted the slave.
?
I?then started the car and had the smothest gear shift ever, even got reverse, the pedal bites near the top instead of near the floor.
?
With new enthusiasm I recleaned the front disks and now they seem to work?fine.
?
I think after 3 weeks of problems it was overwhelming me some what.
?
Now?I have a loud tapping from the motor that developed during test drives.
?
I have a glue (Slats) pot lid on the brake reservoir and our friend Ben Rodgers sent me a six blade fan, I even installed a thermostaticaly controlled cooling?fan and a new water pump, plus fixed all the rat chewed wires, rebuilt the carbs, installed a brake master and?bled the brakes?and lots more,?I hope it makes it.
?
Have a look at californiamelee.com to see?the vintage rally info?etc.
?
We leave on the 12th for 3 days!
?
The route is SF to Sonoma,?Lake Berryessa to Clear Lake via hunting roads, back/farm roads to Redbluff where we stay the night. 55f to 112f+
?
Next day we take highway 36 through the National Forest (during marujuana cropping season, dangerous, cops and croppers armed to the teeth), to Arcata on the coast, we take the lost coast and down?to Fort bragg/Mendocino on highway one and spend the night. 112f+ to 55f on the coast.
?
Next day Fort Bragg to Cloverdale, to Skaggs(one lane)?Creek Rd?to the coast back roads the Bodega bay to SF on highway one ending at a dinner party awards ceremony?in a great SF restaurant,them home.?55f, 112f, 55f.
?
My brave and trusty Co pilot is a Fireman!
?
I do have some clunking from the streering, but it all looks solid.
?
Now to clean and tidy it up some!
?
Cheers,
Peter Holbrook!



?
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Fri Sep  4 01:56:17 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 15:56:17 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fixed it thanks for the help!
	couldhave done it with out you all!
In-Reply-To: <703436.99839.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <703436.99839.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2959A09AF113493EAA1027F2935B5E92@Vista>

That is usually a tappet shim that is uneven.
Does it vary some?

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net 
  To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. 
  Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 2:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fixed it thanks for the help! couldhave done it with out you all!




        Now I have a loud tapping from the motor that developed during test drives.

       


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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Fri Sep  4 06:33:35 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 07:33:35 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fixed it thanks for the help!
	couldhave done it with out you all!
References: <703436.99839.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP4D64AA2704F2DAB40864B95EE0@phx.gbl>

Good luck with the trip!
                   Ben
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From sdibdin at hotmail.com  Fri Sep  4 07:06:58 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 07:06:58 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fixed it thanks for the help! could
	have done it with out you all!
In-Reply-To: <703436.99839.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <703436.99839.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP89A7955584A7CD5AB934FAB0EE0@phx.gbl>

Peter

Check that the mounting bolts for the steering idler are tight. They  
tend to loosen off over time and cam make the clunking you mentioned.  
It's a free and easy check.

Cheers,

Steven


From peter at king-co.com  Fri Sep  4 10:41:52 2009
From: peter at king-co.com (peter king)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 10:41:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Parting 1970 3500s NADA
In-Reply-To: <cc1136efa009519928feda97857a6ef8.squirrel@mail.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
References: <cc1136efa009519928feda97857a6ef8.squirrel@mail.suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Message-ID: <ECB4FD4C-832A-4CA1-8D31-ECA832FCE4FC@king-co.com>

If any of you are interested in putting a complete car together, I  
will dontate my 70 3500s, which has a good body but no engine, and a  
bad tranny. Pics of the car before I removed the engine can be seen  
here: http://king-co.com/redrover/
Put Pete's engine and tranny in, and off you go... once you overhaul  
brakes, that is. Car is located near Boston, MA, USA.

Peter



On Sep 2, 2009, at 8:00 PM, fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:

> Hi Rover folks,
>
>            Been a long time since I've communicated here, hows  
> everyone ?
>
>            Reason for writing now.
>
>            Parting out my 1970 NADA 3500s with 64K miles.
>            I'm the second owner, has not been run in probably 3  
> years .
> Put to sleep properly , oiled engine , drained fuel .
>
>            Interior ok , rear center arm rest seam split, Slight  
> wear on
> side of drivers seat. Black interior .
>            All body panels are there, rusty wings, slightly dented  
> boot(
> trunk) ,
> triple scooped bonnet, doors are usable. Bumpers are rusty. All  
> glass is
> good.
> Carpets in front are shot,
>            Car ran very well when put into outside storage,  
> Transmission
> was rebuilt VERY well at about 56K .
>
>             This is an airconditioned car and I am keeping all things
> that have to do with the A/C.
>
>             Wheels on car are 3500sdi but the proper wheel covers  
> are in
> boot.
>
>             I really want to part this car out and will be as  
> reasonable
> as I can with prices. You are welcome to come and remove
> stuff yourself and save lots of money, my time removing ,
> packing, and shipping.
>
>             Please ask any questions  either here or give me a call,
> contact info is below.
>
>            Car is in Sag Harbor NY , on the east end of Long Island,  
> 100
> miles from NYC.
>
> Pete McArdle     631 725 3921        or        fmcardle at suffolk.lib.ny.us
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no- 
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>



From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Fri Sep  4 19:51:13 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:51:13 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
Message-ID: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>

Is the boot glued to the console?
I am about to install a new boot from Scotts and that is all I need to know.

PVS 



From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com  Fri Sep  4 20:44:15 2009
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:44:15 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
In-Reply-To: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
References: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
Message-ID: <00e701ca2dc1$fe902cc0$fbb08640$@wilkins@bigpond.com>

If I remember rightly the boot should have small rubber prongs that fit
through he centre console and are held in place by small metal clips on the
underneath of the console. I had a lot of trouble keeping the boot in place
on both the handbrake and the console while pushing the clips in place. Good
luck.

Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Melbourne Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Netspace
Sent: Saturday, 5 September 2009 9:51 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot

Is the boot glued to the console?
I am about to install a new boot from Scotts and that is all I need to know.

PVS 


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk  Fri Sep  4 21:25:41 2009
From: p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk (p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 02:25:41 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
References: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
	<00e701ca2dc1$fe902cc0$fbb08640$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <CCC4FD67803A40C48DFD9A14B76ECC4A@SN037535920331>

Yes spot on, little metal clips which are a real pain, no glue.
Regards
Mark



From drnaramata at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  5 01:15:31 2009
From: drnaramata at yahoo.com (Gatrell David)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 22:15:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
In-Reply-To: <00c101ca2967$fe2469d0$fa6d3d70$@mb.ca>
Message-ID: <427400.59909.qm@web65516.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Glen
Congratulations to your wife on her barn find.  I have sources for clock repairs or conversions which advertise in Hemmings Motor News.  I do not have experience with any of them but their websites look good.

www.autoclock.com   562 698-4445  Whittier, CA
www.clockworks.com   800 398-3040  Eagle River, WI
www.paspeedo.com    650 323-0243   Palo Alto, CA
www.american-classic.com  508 278-0020  Uxbridge, MA

Good luck
David

1965 P5 MkIIc

--- On Sun, 8/30/09, Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca> wrote:

> From: Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
> To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 4:49 AM
> Hello,
> 
> Let me introduce myself.? My wife made the proverbial
> barn find last summer
> in our little Manitoba town.? She was exercising one
> of her passions on the
> garage sale circuit and came across an almost perfect Rover
> 100. I spent the
> winter off and on making the car road worthy and thanks to
> several hours
> tours through the archives of this and other Rover groups
> plus a whole lot
> of help from Ruth Burgess, we have the car running very
> well.? In fact it
> has been a regular driver for about the last month.? 
> 
> However, there remains a few cosmetic pieces I would like
> to repair or
> replace. 
> 
> Initially, triangular shaped plastic Rover 100 grill
> badge.? Is there an
> original one of these badges to be found?? 
> 
> I have seen pictures of the "after market" types which do
> not have the 100
> designation on them, and the colour looks wrong.? Do
> any of you have any
> experience with the reproduction?? My thought was to
> add the "100" myself
> and make it work.? Again, any experience with this
> issue?
> 
> Can you also recommend a North American source of repair
> for the clock?? I
> would like to replace the works with a modern set which
> will be more
> reliable. 
> 
> My final current quest is for the small trim bits which fit
> between the
> lights and bumper on the front edge of the fenders to mark
> the colour
> changes on a two tone car.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Glen Lucas???
> 
>


      


From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 02:27:21 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 06:27:21 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
In-Reply-To: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
References: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W343F10DF2FCC01F250BDECB8ED0@phx.gbl>


Held in place by razor sharp springclips that fit over fragile plastic pegs that orientate the boot on the console.  Go slowly and use a small pair of pliers to gently "unscrew" the springclips. Hate to say it, but you're sure to see at least one peg die on the table.
 
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:51:13 +1000
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
> 
> Is the boot glued to the console?
> I am about to install a new boot from Scotts and that is all I need to know.
> 
> PVS 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox Find out how here
http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sat Sep  5 02:44:07 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 16:44:07 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W343F10DF2FCC01F250BDECB8ED0@phx.gbl>
References: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
	<BAY120-W343F10DF2FCC01F250BDECB8ED0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <080CC2CE90C44F1190A19831F31E68C2@Vista>

The boot was not there when I acquired the car.
Hmmm.
Theoretically I have some spares, will check.

PVS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Richard Sharpe 
  To: rover net 
  Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 4:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot


  Held in place by razor sharp springclips that fit over fragile plastic pegs that orientate the boot on the console.  Go slowly and use a small pair of pliers to gently "unscrew" the springclips. Hate to say it, but you're sure to see at least one peg die on the table.
   
  > From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
  > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
  > Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:51:13 +1000
  > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
  > 
  > Is the boot glued to the console?
  > I am about to install a new boot from Scotts and that is all I need to know.
  > 
  > PVS 
  > 
  > 
  > _______________________________________________
  > Rovernet mailing list
  > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
  > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
  > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
  > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Find out how here Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox 


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Rovernet mailing list
  Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  Here is the old Rovernet archives:
  http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From wfritz at mindspring.com  Sat Sep  5 06:42:37 2009
From: wfritz at mindspring.com (Fritz Rauschenberg)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 06:42:37 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
In-Reply-To: <080CC2CE90C44F1190A19831F31E68C2@Vista>
References: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>	<BAY120-W343F10DF2FCC01F250BDECB8ED0@phx.gbl>
	<080CC2CE90C44F1190A19831F31E68C2@Vista>
Message-ID: <002601ca2e15$95c8b4b0$c15a1e10$@com>

A little rubber friendly lubricant on the pegs will help. Good luck.

Fritz Rauschenberg

Atlanta

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Netspace
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 2:44 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot

 

The boot was not there when I acquired the car.

Hmmm.

Theoretically I have some spares, will check.

 

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Richard Sharpe <mailto:trowzerkoff at hotmail.com>  

To: rover net <mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>  

Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 4:27 PM

Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot

 

Held in place by razor sharp springclips that fit over fragile plastic pegs
that orientate the boot on the console.  Go slowly and use a small pair of
pliers to gently "unscrew" the springclips. Hate to say it, but you're sure
to see at least one peg die on the table.
 
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 09:51:13 +1000
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
> 
> Is the boot glued to the console?
> I am about to install a new boot from Scotts and that is all I need to
know.
> 
> PVS 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


  _____  


Find out how here Use Messenger in your Hotmail inbox
<http://windowslive.ninemsn.com.au/article.aspx?id=823454>  


  _____  


_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From gwlucas at granite.mb.ca  Sat Sep  5 07:24:08 2009
From: gwlucas at granite.mb.ca (Glen Lucas)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 06:24:08 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
In-Reply-To: <427400.59909.qm@web65516.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <00c101ca2967$fe2469d0$fa6d3d70$@mb.ca>
	<427400.59909.qm@web65516.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <007801ca2e1b$65f8f690$31eae3b0$@mb.ca>

David, 

Thank you so much.  I looked through Hemmings' "on-line" version and spoke
to the suppliers.  They suggested a Smith Jaeger clock was too shallow for
their conversions.  The contacts you found do indeed illustrate many shallow
clock conversions.  

Regards,

Glen Lucas



-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gatrell David
Sent: September 5, 2009 12:16 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.

Glen
Congratulations to your wife on her barn find.  I have sources for clock
repairs or conversions which advertise in Hemmings Motor News.  I do not
have experience with any of them but their websites look good.

www.autoclock.com   562 698-4445  Whittier, CA
www.clockworks.com   800 398-3040  Eagle River, WI
www.paspeedo.com    650 323-0243   Palo Alto, CA
www.american-classic.com  508 278-0020  Uxbridge, MA

Good luck
David

1965 P5 MkIIc

--- On Sun, 8/30/09, Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca> wrote:

> From: Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
> To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 4:49 AM
> Hello,
> 
> Let me introduce myself.? My wife made the proverbial
> barn find last summer
> in our little Manitoba town.? She was exercising one
> of her passions on the
> garage sale circuit and came across an almost perfect Rover
> 100. I spent the
> winter off and on making the car road worthy and thanks to
> several hours
> tours through the archives of this and other Rover groups
> plus a whole lot
> of help from Ruth Burgess, we have the car running very
> well.? In fact it
> has been a regular driver for about the last month.? 
> 
> However, there remains a few cosmetic pieces I would like
> to repair or
> replace. 
> 
> Initially, triangular shaped plastic Rover 100 grill
> badge.? Is there an
> original one of these badges to be found?? 
> 
> I have seen pictures of the "after market" types which do
> not have the 100
> designation on them, and the colour looks wrong.? Do
> any of you have any
> experience with the reproduction?? My thought was to
> add the "100" myself
> and make it work.? Again, any experience with this
> issue?
> 
> Can you also recommend a North American source of repair
> for the clock?? I
> would like to replace the works with a modern set which
> will be more
> reliable. 
> 
> My final current quest is for the small trim bits which fit
> between the
> lights and bumper on the front edge of the fenders to mark
> the colour
> changes on a two tone car.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Glen Lucas???
> 
>


      

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From dirk at vy-tek.com  Sat Sep  5 12:46:28 2009
From: dirk at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 12:46:28 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Clock conversion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1252166406.1279.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <77A41805DD9A4050950F0445A6437DA3@DirkPC2>

 Hello Glen,

All P4 clocks break 30 days after the car was new or after 100 miles which
ever comes first! You can have it rebuilt and it will last for 200 miles or
30 days which ever comes first. I found a nice way to maintain the look and
keep the original face. I gutted the clock and then went and purchased from
a craft store a quartz battery operated clockworks and fitted into the body
of the old clock housing. It is easier then you think and costs about $10
and a few hours of your time.

Think about it and send me a email if you would like more detailed
instructions.

Good Luck
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 11

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
	rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	rovernet-request at rovernet.ca

You can reach the person managing the list at
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
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Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Rover P4 100 finishing touches. (Glen Lucas)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 06:24:08 -0500
From: "Glen Lucas" <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing
	touches.
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <007801ca2e1b$65f8f690$31eae3b0$@mb.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

David, 

Thank you so much.  I looked through Hemmings' "on-line" version and spoke
to the suppliers.  They suggested a Smith Jaeger clock was too shallow for
their conversions.  The contacts you found do indeed illustrate many shallow
clock conversions.  

Regards,

Glen Lucas



-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gatrell David
Sent: September 5, 2009 12:16 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.

Glen
Congratulations to your wife on her barn find.  I have sources for clock
repairs or conversions which advertise in Hemmings Motor News.  I do not
have experience with any of them but their websites look good.

www.autoclock.com   562 698-4445  Whittier, CA
www.clockworks.com   800 398-3040  Eagle River, WI
www.paspeedo.com    650 323-0243   Palo Alto, CA
www.american-classic.com  508 278-0020  Uxbridge, MA

Good luck
David

1965 P5 MkIIc

--- On Sun, 8/30/09, Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca> wrote:

> From: Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
> To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 4:49 AM Hello,
> 
> Let me introduce myself.? My wife made the proverbial barn find last 
> summer in our little Manitoba town.? She was exercising one of her 
> passions on the garage sale circuit and came across an almost perfect 
> Rover 100. I spent the winter off and on making the car road worthy 
> and thanks to several hours tours through the archives of this and 
> other Rover groups plus a whole lot of help from Ruth Burgess, we have 
> the car running very well.? In fact it has been a regular driver for 
> about the last month.?
> 
> However, there remains a few cosmetic pieces I would like to repair or 
> replace.
> 
> Initially, triangular shaped plastic Rover 100 grill badge.? Is there 
> an original one of these badges to be found??
> 
> I have seen pictures of the "after market" types which do not have the 
> 100 designation on them, and the colour looks wrong.? Do any of you 
> have any experience with the reproduction?? My thought was to add the 
> "100" myself and make it work.? Again, any experience with this issue?
> 
> Can you also recommend a North American source of repair for the 
> clock?? I would like to replace the works with a modern set which will 
> be more reliable.
> 
> My final current quest is for the small trim bits which fit between 
> the lights and bumper on the front edge of the fenders to mark the 
> colour changes on a two tone car.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Glen Lucas???
> 
>


      

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 11
****************************************




From jpsco44 at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 13:54:44 2009
From: jpsco44 at aol.com (jpsco44 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 13:54:44 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Clock conversion
In-Reply-To: <77A41805DD9A4050950F0445A6437DA3@DirkPC2>
Message-ID: <8CBFC6915DD96B1-A64-D732@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>


 Hello !

There is two of us !!
I did the same thing Dirk did?? -? archeologists call that parallel evolution -? ? ? :-)
You might have to decide if you want to drive the clock with a 1.5 volt battery or derive 1.5 v from the 12 v.? simple task.
The original lamp interfered with the clock mechanism , so i made a small printed circuit board with a crown of white LEDs, to get uniform lighting.
The light is a little too white? , so perhaps i might go with "grain of wheat" incandescent lamps some day .

JPS





 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dirk Burrowes <dirk at vy-tek.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 12:46 pm
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Clock conversion










 Hello Glen,

All P4 clocks break 30 days after the car was new or after 100 miles which
ever comes first! You can have it rebuilt and it will last for 200 miles or
30 days which ever comes first. I found a nice way to maintain the look and
keep the original face. I gutted the clock and then went and purchased from
a craft store a quartz battery operated clockworks and fitted into the body
of the old clock housing. It is easier then you think and costs about $10
and a few hours of your time.

Think about it and send me a email if you would like more detailed
instructions.

Good Luck
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 11

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
    rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    rovernet-request at rovernet.ca

You can reach the person managing the list at
    rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."


Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Rover P4 100 finishing touches. (Glen Lucas)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 06:24:08 -0500
From: "Glen Lucas" <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing
    touches.
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
    <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <007801ca2e1b$65f8f690$31eae3b0$@mb.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

David, 

Thank you so much.  I looked through Hemmings' "on-line" version and spoke
to the suppliers.  They suggested a Smith Jaeger clock was too shallow for
their conversions.  The contacts you found do indeed illustrate many shallow
clock conversions.  

Regards,

Glen Lucas



-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gatrell David
Sent: September 5, 2009 12:16 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.

Glen
Congratulations to your wife on her barn find.  I have sources for clock
repairs or conversions which advertise in Hemmings Motor News.  I do not
have experience with any of them but their websites look good.

www.autoclock.com   562 698-4445  Whittier, CA
www.clockworks.com   800 398-3040  Eagle River, WI
www.paspeedo.com    650 323-0243   Palo Alto, CA
www.american-classic.com  508 278-0020  Uxbridge, MA

Good luck
David

1965 P5 MkIIc

--- On Sun, 8/30/09, Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca> wrote:

> From: Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
> To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 4:49 AM Hello,
> 
> Let me introduce myself.? My wife made the proverbial barn find last 
> summer in our little Manitoba town.? She was exercising one of her 
> passions on the garage sale circuit and came across an almost perfect 
> Rover 100. I spent the winter off and on making the car road worthy 
> and thanks to several hours tours through the archives of this and 
> other Rover groups plus a whole lot of help from Ruth Burgess, we have 
> the car running very well.? In fact it has been a regular driver for 
> about the last month.?
> 
> However, there remains a few cosmetic pieces I would like to repair or 
> replace.
> 
> Initially, triangular shaped plastic Rover 100 grill badge.? Is there 
> an original one of these badges to be found??
> 
> I have seen pictures of the "after market" types which do not have the 
> 100 designation on them, and the colour looks wrong.? Do any of you 
> have any experience with the reproduction?? My thought was to add the 
> "100" myself and make it work.? Again, any experience with this issue?
> 
> Can you also recommend a North American source of repair for the 
> clock?? I would like to replace the works with a modern set which will 
> be more reliable.
> 
> My final current quest is for the small trim bits which fit between 
> the lights and bumper on the front edge of the fenders to mark the 
> colour changes on a two tone car.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Glen Lucas???
> 
>


      

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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




------------------------------

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End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 11
****************************************



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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Sat Sep  5 13:55:05 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 10:55:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
In-Reply-To: <488A02E2CDF94650AA4FB60DE671D225@Vista>
Message-ID: <245326.29259.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Its held in place by spring clips

--- On Fri, 9/4/09, Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote:


From: Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Friday, September 4, 2009, 4:51 PM


Is the boot glued to the console?
I am about to install a new boot from Scotts and that is all I need to know.

PVS 

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From sdibdin at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 14:12:03 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 14:12:03 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 handbrake rubber boot
In-Reply-To: <245326.29259.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <245326.29259.qm@web83007.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP95BBD13D8417FA6FB6E70DB0ED0@phx.gbl>

Hi,

The boot is secured by 6 steel pins and flat nuts these nuts are the  
push on style and almost impossible to remove. I found that when I  
replaced mine that the easiest way was the grab each pin with pliers  
and waggle them until they failed. Once off you can pull the pins  
through the nut and reuse the nut on the new boot.

One word of caution. The handbrake boot has a design flaw as standard.  
The new boot can be stiff enough to lift the hb lever a bit. This can  
stop the rear calipers adjusting correctly and cause some light  
dragging. I found I had to play with the cable adjustment a bit to  
cope with this. Once done you should be okay. Bear in mind that the  
new boot will fail after about a year because there is no natural  
folds designed into it!

Cheers,

Steven


From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sat Sep  5 18:32:08 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 08:32:08 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Clock conversion
In-Reply-To: <8CBFC6915DD96B1-A64-D732@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBFC6915DD96B1-A64-D732@webmail-m029.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8F6339B24C28426A96E7B73ABC595E8C@Vista>

How many species went extinct last year?
How many species came in to existence?
The predictions of evolutionary theory are not ratified.

PVS
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: jpsco44 at aol.com 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 3:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Clock conversion


  Hello !

  There is two of us !!
  I did the same thing Dirk did   -  archeologists call that parallel evolution -      :-)
  You might have to decide if you want to drive the clock with a 1.5 volt battery or derive 1.5 v from the 12 v.  simple task.
  The original lamp interfered with the clock mechanism , so i made a small printed circuit board with a crown of white LEDs, to get uniform lighting.
  The light is a little too white  , so perhaps i might go with "grain of wheat" incandescent lamps some day .

  JPS








  -----Original Message-----
  From: Dirk Burrowes <dirk at vy-tek.com>
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 12:46 pm
  Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Clock conversion


 Hello Glen,

All P4 clocks break 30 days after the car was new or after 100 miles which
ever comes first! You can have it rebuilt and it will last for 200 miles or
30 days which ever comes first. I found a nice way to maintain the look and
keep the original face. I gutted the clock and then went and purchased from
a craft store a quartz battery operated clockworks and fitted into the body
of the old clock housing. It is easier then you think and costs about $10
and a few hours of your time.

Think about it and send me a email if you would like more detailed
instructions.

Good Luck
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 11

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
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which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Rover P4 100 finishing touches. (Glen Lucas)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 06:24:08 -0500
From: "Glen Lucas" <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing
    touches.
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
    <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <007801ca2e1b$65f8f690$31eae3b0$@mb.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

David, 

Thank you so much.  I looked through Hemmings' "on-line" version and spoke
to the suppliers.  They suggested a Smith Jaeger clock was too shallow for
their conversions.  The contacts you found do indeed illustrate many shallow
clock conversions.  

Regards,

Glen Lucas



-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Gatrell David
Sent: September 5, 2009 12:16 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.

Glen
Congratulations to your wife on her barn find.  I have sources for clock
repairs or conversions which advertise in Hemmings Motor News.  I do not
have experience with any of them but their websites look good.

www.autoclock.com   562 698-4445  Whittier, CA
www.clockworks.com   800 398-3040  Eagle River, WI
www.paspeedo.com    650 323-0243   Palo Alto, CA
www.american-classic.com  508 278-0020  Uxbridge, MA

Good luck
David

1965 P5 MkIIc

--- On Sun, 8/30/09, Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca> wrote:

> From: Glen Lucas <gwlucas at granite.mb.ca>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P4 100 finishing touches.
> To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 4:49 AM Hello,
> 
> Let me introduce myself.? My wife made the proverbial barn find last 
> summer in our little Manitoba town.? She was exercising one of her 
> passions on the garage sale circuit and came across an almost perfect 
> Rover 100. I spent the winter off and on making the car road worthy 
> and thanks to several hours tours through the archives of this and 
> other Rover groups plus a whole lot of help from Ruth Burgess, we have 
> the car running very well.? In fact it has been a regular driver for 
> about the last month.?
> 
> However, there remains a few cosmetic pieces I would like to repair or 
> replace.
> 
> Initially, triangular shaped plastic Rover 100 grill badge.? Is there 
> an original one of these badges to be found??
> 
> I have seen pictures of the "after market" types which do not have the 
> 100 designation on them, and the colour looks wrong.? Do any of you 
> have any experience with the reproduction?? My thought was to add the 
> "100" myself and make it work.? Again, any experience with this issue?
> 
> Can you also recommend a North American source of repair for the 
> clock?? I would like to replace the works with a modern set which will 
> be more reliable.
> 
> My final current quest is for the small trim bits which fit between 
> the lights and bumper on the front edge of the fenders to mark the 
> colour changes on a two tone car.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Glen Lucas???
> 
>


      

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




------------------------------

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Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 11
****************************************



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------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Sat Sep  5 20:32:05 2009
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 18:32:05 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
Message-ID: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl>

I've posted a question twice regarding placement of the 'Tyre Pressure' decal (approximately 4" X 2") for the 3500 and 3500S and have received no responses.  I would appreciate it if someone would just respond to let me know they received my question.   Even an answer of "I have not idea about the placement of the decal" would be helpful. 

Lance La Certe,  '70 3500S
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From den at aachenkennels.com  Sat Sep  5 20:35:34 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 08:35:34 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Luvax transfers
References: <mailman.7.1252166406.1279.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16069471@Server.adoptsec.local>

Anyone on the list know of a supplier of Decals or transfer for the
Luvax Bijur Chassis lube system. Any of the transfer for P2 Rovers.?

In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher




From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 20:59:24 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 21:59:24 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
In-Reply-To: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL114-W141612D3C34ADE3C1A9F1ADEEC0@phx.gbl>



 I have not idea about the placement of the decal"...lol..

 

  ...however I do recall that someone did post a reply just yesterday or this morning in response to your question...

 

 


From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 18:32:05 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux




I've posted a question twice regarding placement of the 'Tyre Pressure' decal (approximately 4" X 2") for the 3500 and 3500S and have received no responses.  I would appreciate it if someone would just respond to let me know they received my question.   Even an answer of "I have not idea about the placement of the decal" would be helpful. 
 
Lance La Certe,  '70 3500S
_________________________________________________________________
New: Messenger sign-in on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677403
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 21:07:13 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 22:07:13 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
Message-ID: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>


 

 My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 

 Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..

 I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.

 Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??

 What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm

 

 Regars

 

 Dennis Brooks

_________________________________________________________________
New! Get to Messenger faster: Sign-in here now!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677407
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sat Sep  5 22:55:00 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:55:00 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>

If it is instant shutdown in a P6B I'd look at spark - loss of 9V on the coil specifically.
The ballast resistor is in line somewhere (I have not isolated where yet) and the connections in that circuit will be critical.

PVS

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis Brooks 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
  Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


   
   My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
   Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
   I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
   Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
   What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
   
   Regars
   
   Dennis Brooks


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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 22:59:39 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 23:59:39 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>
Message-ID: <COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl>



 I did change the coil and wires too...but nothing..however I will look there again.

 I find hat there is almost no suction at the mouth of the carbs as compared to normal ..that's why I am wondering about engine vaccum..


From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:55:00 +1000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!




If it is instant shutdown in a P6B I'd look at spark - loss of 9V on the coil specifically.
The ballast resistor is in line somewhere (I have not isolated where yet) and the connections in that circuit will be critical.
 
PVS
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dennis Brooks 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!

 
 My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
 Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
 I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
 Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
 What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
 
 Regars
 
 Dennis Brooks



Click less, mail more: Hotmail on the new MSN homepage! 




_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_________________________________________________________________
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http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677403
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sat Sep  5 23:21:53 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:21:53 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl><20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>
	<COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>

Just measure the voltage there, alligator clips are best.
Connect meter positive to the coil positive (not the points side) and the meter negative to an earth (any decent bolt).
The vac/draw on a good 3500 is not high at idle.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis Brooks 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 12:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!



   I did change the coil and wires too...but nothing..however I will look there again.
   I find hat there is almost no suction at the mouth of the carbs as compared to normal ..that's why I am wondering about engine vaccum..

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:55:00 +1000
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


  If it is instant shutdown in a P6B I'd look at spark - loss of 9V on the coil specifically.
  The ballast resistor is in line somewhere (I have not isolated where yet) and the connections in that circuit will be critical.

  PVS

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Dennis Brooks 
    To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
    Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
    Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


     
     My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
     Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
     I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
     Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
     What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
     
     Regars
     
     Dennis Brooks


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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 23:36:46 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 00:36:46 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl><20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>
	<COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl> 
	<5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>
Message-ID: <COL114-W219379C81DDBC82FDAA670DEEC0@phx.gbl>



 coil positive (not the points side) ...

 

 Do you mean the positive on the tab at the coil...where the wire plugs on ??  What should it read ? (BTW ...thanks)


From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:21:53 +1000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!




Just measure the voltage there, alligator clips are best.
Connect meter positive to the coil positive (not the points side) and the meter negative to an earth (any decent bolt).
The vac/draw on a good 3500 is not high at idle.
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dennis Brooks 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


 I did change the coil and wires too...but nothing..however I will look there again.
 I find hat there is almost no suction at the mouth of the carbs as compared to normal ..that's why I am wondering about engine vaccum..


From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:55:00 +1000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!




If it is instant shutdown in a P6B I'd look at spark - loss of 9V on the coil specifically.
The ballast resistor is in line somewhere (I have not isolated where yet) and the connections in that circuit will be critical.
 
PVS
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dennis Brooks 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!

 
 My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
 Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
 I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
 Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
 What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
 
 Regars
 
 Dennis Brooks



Click less, mail more: Hotmail on the new MSN homepage! 



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From phing at videotron.ca  Sat Sep  5 23:50:28 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2009 23:50:28 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
In-Reply-To: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003001ca2ea5$2cd33080$86799180$@ca>

Hi Lance 

 My Federal p6B's tyre decal is under the hood on the driver's side . The
text faces forward . Send me your e mail and I will forward a picture 

 Cheers 

 Patrick 

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 8:32 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux

 

I've posted a question twice regarding placement of the 'Tyre Pressure'
decal (approximately 4" X 2") for the 3500 and 3500S and have received no
responses.  I would appreciate it if someone would just respond to let me
know they received my question.   Even an answer of "I have not idea about
the placement of the decal" would be helpful. 

 

Lance La Certe,  '70 3500S

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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au  Sat Sep  5 23:51:36 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 13:21:36 +0930
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl><20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>	<COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>
Message-ID: <4AA331C8.4070807@ozemail.com.au>

Hi Dennis
I would check the ignition system.

With ign ON ...
* Voltage at coil, if no voltage --> wriggle leads to see if there is intermittent connection.
With ign OFF ...
* continuity between battery and ign switch.
* continuity between ign switch and coil.
* coil resistance between LT terminal and ground.

Remove dizzy cap and check point gap.
Check lead from coil to points.
Check for loose points baseplate.
Check for sticking points
Check for intermittent short in supression capacitor (temporarily remove capacitor lead and see if engine starts)

HTH

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

>     ----- Original Message ----- 
>     From: Dennis Brooks 
>     To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
>     Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
>     Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
> 
> 
>      
>      My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
>      Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
>      I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
>      Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
>      What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
>      
>      Regars
>      
>      Dennis Brooks


From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  5 23:59:16 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 00:59:16 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <4AA331C8.4070807@ozemail.com.au>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl><20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista>
	<COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>
	<4AA331C8.4070807@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <COL114-W13A69B1DC34E98850613BDEEC0@phx.gbl>


With ign ON ...
* Voltage at coil, if no voltage --> wriggle leads to see if there is intermittent connection.
With ign OFF ...
* continuity between battery and ign switch.
* continuity between ign switch and coil.
* coil resistance between LT terminal and ground.

 

 

 Thanks for the above info ...what can I expect for results however ?? I am not familiar with these tests...maybeI should be though...lol.

   Where do I get the ignition switch lead from ??  LT terminal ???...how much resistance ?? if any should I expect ?

 

 Sorry for all the lame questions but it does sound like a test worth trying at least.

 

 Regards

 

 Dennis
 
 
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:21:36 +0930
> From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
> 
> Hi Dennis
> I would check the ignition system.
> 
> With ign ON ...
> * Voltage at coil, if no voltage --> wriggle leads to see if there is intermittent connection.
> With ign OFF ...
> * continuity between battery and ign switch.
> * continuity between ign switch and coil.
> * coil resistance between LT terminal and ground.
> 
> Remove dizzy cap and check point gap.
> Check lead from coil to points.
> Check for loose points baseplate.
> Check for sticking points
> Check for intermittent short in supression capacitor (temporarily remove capacitor lead and see if engine starts)
> 
> HTH
> 
> Cheers
> Dave
> South Oz
> 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: Dennis Brooks 
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
> > Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
> > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
> > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
> > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
> > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> > 
> > Regars
> > 
> > Dennis Brooks
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From den at aachenkennels.com  Sun Sep  6 00:36:32 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
References: <mailman.37.1252207326.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1606947E@Server.adoptsec.local>

Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What you describe is
something that can occur when the coil gets hot causing it to stop
working, no idea why I'm sure there's others on the list who do. I have
come across your problem before and sorted it buy nicking a mates just
to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back before he come
home..(smile)

In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher





 



 

 My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter
what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye
for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 

 Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died
again...like it was shut down..

 I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it
quits...or at least it seems lke it.

 Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal
??

 What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not
a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is
...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm

 

 Regars

 

 Dennis Brooks



From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Sep  6 01:09:01 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:09:01 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W219379C81DDBC82FDAA670DEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl><20153BACA34B43CD9A6C35CB885D53BB@Vista><COL114-W1176C242DF3B09F3627C5FDEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<5002633F38C340A1B1DBF8867DCBE062@Vista>
	<COL114-W219379C81DDBC82FDAA670DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CE4FD4F854AE485AA1ADFB61BEDD14F3@Vista>

Yes that is it, the little terminal on the coil that is not connected to the points.
9 volts is what should be there with ignition on.
Usually use a 20V scale to see it.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis Brooks 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 1:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!



   coil positive (not the points side) ...
   
   Do you mean the positive on the tab at the coil...where the wire plugs on ??  What should it read ? (BTW ...thanks)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 13:21:53 +1000
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


  Just measure the voltage there, alligator clips are best.
  Connect meter positive to the coil positive (not the points side) and the meter negative to an earth (any decent bolt).
  The vac/draw on a good 3500 is not high at idle.

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Dennis Brooks 
    To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
    Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 12:59 PM
    Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!



     I did change the coil and wires too...but nothing..however I will look there again.
     I find hat there is almost no suction at the mouth of the carbs as compared to normal ..that's why I am wondering about engine vaccum..

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
    To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
    Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:55:00 +1000
    Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


    If it is instant shutdown in a P6B I'd look at spark - loss of 9V on the coil specifically.
    The ballast resistor is in line somewhere (I have not isolated where yet) and the connections in that circuit will be critical.

    PVS

      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Dennis Brooks 
      To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
      Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:07 AM
      Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!


       
       My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
       Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died again...like it was shut down..
       I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it quits...or at least it seems lke it.
       Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
       What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
       
       Regars
       
       Dennis Brooks


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------

      _______________________________________________
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      Rovernet at rovernet.ca
      Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
      http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
      Here is the old Rovernet archives:
      http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
      Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
      http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------


    _______________________________________________
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    Rovernet at rovernet.ca
    Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
    http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
    Here is the old Rovernet archives:
    http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
    Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 09:00:10 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 10:00:10 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1606947E@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <mailman.37.1252207326.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1606947E@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl>



  "I would start with changing the coil"

 

 I tried that the last time (and this time) with no luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark appears to be strong when turning over.

 

 
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
> From: den at aachenkennels.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> 
> Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What you describe is
> something that can occur when the coil gets hot causing it to stop
> working, no idea why I'm sure there's others on the list who do. I have
> come across your problem before and sorted it buy nicking a mates just
> to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back before he come
> home..(smile)
> 
> In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> Den Gallacher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter
> what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye
> for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
> 
> Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died
> again...like it was shut down..
> 
> I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it
> quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> 
> Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal
> ??
> 
> What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not
> a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is
> ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> Regars
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis Brooks
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
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http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677406
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Sep  6 09:07:27 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 23:07:27 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.37.1252207326.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1606947E@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <71FF0A5EBDA543E6B5A939B75DD77244@Vista>

The fact that it runs then suddenly stops says not coil.
I'd look at the 9V supply followed by capacitor in distributor.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis Brooks 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again



    "I would start with changing the coil"
   
   I tried that the last time (and this time) with no luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark appears to be strong when turning over.
   
   
  > Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
  > From: den at aachenkennels.com
  > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
  > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
  > 
  > Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What you describe is
  > something that can occur when the coil gets hot causing it to stop
  > working, no idea why I'm sure there's others on the list who do. I have
  > come across your problem before and sorted it buy nicking a mates just
  > to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back before he come
  > home..(smile)
  > 
  > In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
  > Den Gallacher
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter
  > what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye
  > for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
  > 
  > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died
  > again...like it was shut down..
  > 
  > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it
  > quits...or at least it seems lke it.
  > 
  > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal
  > ??
  > 
  > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not
  > a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is
  > ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Regars
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > Dennis Brooks
  > 
  > 
  > _______________________________________________
  > Rovernet mailing list
  > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
  > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
  > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
  > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 09:27:26 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 10:27:26 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
In-Reply-To: <71FF0A5EBDA543E6B5A939B75DD77244@Vista>
References: <mailman.37.1252207326.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1606947E@Server.adoptsec.local>
	<COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl> 
	<71FF0A5EBDA543E6B5A939B75DD77244@Vista>
Message-ID: <COL114-W4048DA6B24991CE21F2DC4DEEC0@phx.gbl>



 If there was no 9V supply would it not have no spark at all ?? ...I still have a good sark at my #1 plug..  I did change the condensor...last time ..but I will try that again just in case the mystery problem is actually a different one this time ...my luck I may have two now...lol


From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 23:07:27 +1000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again




The fact that it runs then suddenly stops says not coil.
I'd look at the 9V supply followed by capacitor in distributor.
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dennis Brooks 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again


  "I would start with changing the coil"
 
 I tried that the last time (and this time) with no luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark appears to be strong when turning over.
 
 
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
> From: den at aachenkennels.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> 
> Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What you describe is
> something that can occur when the coil gets hot causing it to stop
> working, no idea why I'm sure there's others on the list who do. I have
> come across your problem before and sorted it buy nicking a mates just
> to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back before he come
> home..(smile)
> 
> In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> Den Gallacher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter
> what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye
> for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
> 
> Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died
> again...like it was shut down..
> 
> I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it
> quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> 
> Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal
> ??
> 
> What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not
> a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is
> ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> Regars
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis Brooks
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN homepage. 




_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From veetwinrider at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 09:27:41 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 06:27:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41948.64074.qm@web180503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Dennis, if it has spark, compression and fuel, it should start. Start with the basics. Spray come carb cleaner into the intake. It may be something as simple as the fuel pump. I can't see it suddenly being compression, unless it was recently overheated and seized up, thereby collasping the rings. As far as spark, it seems your getting it, so I would eliminate the coil and points. One possibility I'd hate to consider, if the Rover V8 has a nylon timing gear, the teeth could have sheared off and the cam timing has jumped. Hope that isn't the case. Good luck Dennis.

roland

Just got the P5 running again! :-)

--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:

> From: Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 6:00 AM
> 
> 
> 
> #yiv26053054 .hmmessage P
> {
> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> #yiv26053054 {
> font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
> 
> 
>  
> 
> ? "I would start with changing the coil"
> 
> ?
> 
> ?I tried that the last time (and this time) with no
> luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark
> appears to be strong when turning over.
> 
> ?
> 
> ?
> > Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
> > From: den at aachenkennels.com
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite
> again
> > 
> > Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What
> you describe is
> > something that can occur when the coil gets hot
> causing it to stop
> > working, no idea why I'm sure there's others
> on the list who do. I have
> > come across your problem before and sorted it buy
> nicking a mates just
> > to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back
> before he come
> > home..(smile)
> > 
> > In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> > Den Gallacher
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just
> died...no matter
> > what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car
> with a close eye
> > for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting
> it to start. 
> > 
> > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the
> darned thing died
> > again...like it was shut down..
> > 
> > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it
> loses the vaccum it
> > quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> > 
> > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks
> beyond the normal
> > ??
> > 
> > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ??
> obviously it was not
> > a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal
> themselves...so whatever it is
> > ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Regars
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Dennis Brooks
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as
> digest mode or no-mail:
> >
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN
> homepage. 
> 
> -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 09:34:27 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 10:34:27 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
In-Reply-To: <41948.64074.qm@web180503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<41948.64074.qm@web180503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <COL114-W38F62590D39DAB40E9D9A7DEEC0@phx.gbl>


Congrats on the P5 !!

 

  It does have all three...it was running rough but runnig... I squirted a bit of fuel into the su's...nothing !!....this one has a metal timing gear I am quite sure. I did buy a new set last time this happened and never put it in yet.

 Would it run with cam timing off ?? I don't think so...but whatever was wrong before seems to have actually recured...I am going to try rechecking ...and look as deeply as possible ...I have had to of missed something ..
 
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 06:27:41 -0700
> From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> 
> Dennis, if it has spark, compression and fuel, it should start. Start with the basics. Spray come carb cleaner into the intake. It may be something as simple as the fuel pump. I can't see it suddenly being compression, unless it was recently overheated and seized up, thereby collasping the rings. As far as spark, it seems your getting it, so I would eliminate the coil and points. One possibility I'd hate to consider, if the Rover V8 has a nylon timing gear, the teeth could have sheared off and the cam timing has jumped. Hope that isn't the case. Good luck Dennis.
> 
> roland
> 
> Just got the P5 running again! :-)
> 
> --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > From: Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 6:00 AM
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > #yiv26053054 .hmmessage P
> > {
> > margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> > #yiv26053054 {
> > font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >   "I would start with changing the coil"
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  I tried that the last time (and this time) with no
> > luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark
> > appears to be strong when turning over.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > > Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
> > > From: den at aachenkennels.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite
> > again
> > > 
> > > Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What
> > you describe is
> > > something that can occur when the coil gets hot
> > causing it to stop
> > > working, no idea why I'm sure there's others
> > on the list who do. I have
> > > come across your problem before and sorted it buy
> > nicking a mates just
> > > to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back
> > before he come
> > > home..(smile)
> > > 
> > > In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> > > Den Gallacher
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just
> > died...no matter
> > > what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car
> > with a close eye
> > > for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting
> > it to start. 
> > > 
> > > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the
> > darned thing died
> > > again...like it was shut down..
> > > 
> > > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it
> > loses the vaccum it
> > > quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> > > 
> > > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks
> > beyond the normal
> > > ??
> > > 
> > > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ??
> > obviously it was not
> > > a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal
> > themselves...so whatever it is
> > > ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Regars
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Dennis Brooks
> > > 
> > > 
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Rovernet mailing list
> > > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Here is where you can change your settings such as
> > digest mode or no-mail:
> > >
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN
> > homepage. 
> > 
> > -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> > mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From den at aachenkennels.com  Sun Sep  6 09:39:15 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:39:15 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 16
References: <mailman.42.1252242462.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD16069483@Server.adoptsec.local>


If the coil is performing as it should then next thing I would check is
for a crack in the dizzy cap or signs of tracking.
If all okay there I would then take out and check 3 plugs at random to
make sure the fire when they are supposed to. Whilst there see if they
are wet and what colour as if a leaky manifold they will be a light
grey.

If as you believe there is a vacuum leak this will in effect lean out
the fuel air ratio sort of an opposite effect to a choke. Couple of
things I would try, first one being disconnect the king lead, then have
someone turn the engine over with you holding your hand over the carb on
each side. If there is a marked difference between each carb then you
have a manifold problem so out with the spanners. However something of a
sudden onset such as you describe would still leave me to think
electric.
Den.





  "I would start with changing the coil"

 

 I tried that the last time (and this time) with no luck...even tried a
third coil just in case. The spark appears to be strong when turning
over.

 

 
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
> From: den at aachenkennels.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> 
> Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What you describe is
> something that can occur when the coil gets hot causing it to stop
> working, no idea why I'm sure there's others on the list who do. I
have
> come across your problem before and sorted it buy nicking a mates just
> to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back before he come
> home..(smile)
> 
> In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> Den Gallacher
> 


From veetwinrider at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 09:49:12 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 06:49:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
Message-ID: <578314.4250.qm@web180502.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Dennis, you could check by bringing the timing mark up to TDC and pull the dizzy cap and see if the timing is still on. If it looks off, that would tell you the chain/cam/crank gears have shifted. Maybe even the distributor gear has some teeth damaged. This would be pretty rare, but possible. Good luck.

roland
--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 6:34 AM




#yiv991384513 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv991384513 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}

Congrats on the P5 !!
?
? It does have all three...it was running rough but runnig... I squirted a bit of fuel into the su's...nothing !!....this one has a metal timing gear I am quite sure. I did buy a new set last time this happened and never put it in yet.
?Would it run with cam timing off ?? I don't think so...but whatever was wrong before seems to have actually recured...I am going to try rechecking ...and look as deeply as possible ...I have had to of missed something ..
?
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 06:27:41 -0700
> From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> 
> Dennis, if it has spark, compression and fuel, it should start. Start with the basics. Spray come carb cleaner into the intake. It may be something as simple as the fuel pump. I can't see it suddenly being compression, unless it was recently overheated and seized up, thereby collasping the rings. As far as spark, it seems your getting it, so I would eliminate the coil and points. One possibility I'd hate to consider, if the Rover V8 has a nylon timing gear, the teeth could have sheared off and the cam timing has jumped. Hope that isn't the case. Good luck Dennis.
> 
> roland
> 
> Just got the P5 running again! :-)
> 
> --- On Sun, 9/6/09, Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > From: Dennis Brooks <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 6:00 AM
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > #yiv26053054 .hmmessage P
> > {
> > margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> > #yiv26053054 {
> > font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ? "I would start with changing the coil"
> > 
> > ?
> > 
> > ?I tried that the last time (and this time) with no
> > luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark
> > appears to be strong when turning over.
> > 
> > ?
> > 
> > ?
> > > Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
> > > From: den at aachenkennels.com
> > > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite
> > again
> > > 
> > > Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What
> > you describe is
> > > something that can occur when the coil gets hot
> > causing it to stop
> > > working, no idea why I'm sure there's others
> > on the list who do. I have
> > > come across your problem before and sorted it buy
> > nicking a mates just
> > > to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back
> > before he come
> > > home..(smile)
> > > 
> > > In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> > > Den Gallacher
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just
> > died...no matter
> > > what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car
> > with a close eye
> > > for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting
> > it to start. 
> > > 
> > > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the
> > darned thing died
> > > again...like it was shut down..
> > > 
> > > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it
> > loses the vaccum it
> > > quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> > > 
> > > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks
> > beyond the normal
> > > ??
> > > 
> > > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ??
> > obviously it was not
> > > a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal
> > themselves...so whatever it is
> > > ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Regars
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Dennis Brooks
> > > 
> > > 
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Rovernet mailing list
> > > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > > Here is where you can change your settings such as
> > digest mode or no-mail:
> > >
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> > 
> > New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN
> > homepage. 
> > 
> > -----Inline Attachment Follows-----
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> > mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Sun Sep  6 11:07:58 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:07:58 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
References: <COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl><41948.64074.qm@web180503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<COL114-W38F62590D39DAB40E9D9A7DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP29F33E1E0F3279E1576D1895EC0@phx.gbl>

Hi Dennis
             I'm a bit rusty on the V8 engine and its problems, but I seem to remember there is at least one relay in the ignition system and this could be the cause of your failing to start.
                Good Luck Ben.
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Sun Sep  6 11:37:58 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 15:37:58 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
Message-ID: <213740.50453.qm@web86001.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Dennis,
By identifying a spark at No 1 plug this is a good start, it means the basic sytem is function , though clearly functioning incorrectly. In any non running problem if action you take can get the car to 'cough' then this is a sign you're on the right track. If fuel directly into the carb brings no 'cough' then I think you can discount fuel and /or air leakage issues.Even with the servo pipe of a squirt of fuel in the throats should get her to 'cough'.

Chances are it is something quite simple as major problems (stripped gear teeth, head gasket gone, pistons disintegrated, sulphuric acid in the petrol, aliens in the sump, nuclear device in the oil filter etc etc etc) are usually associated with much more noise, mess and the sad cry of metal being destroyed!
Yes it is possible that at the very moment you were tuning the car a component (rotor arm, capacitor) failed but on a purely statistical analysis this is unlikely, though I accept not impossible.

If you are getting a spark then two possibilities,
1. The spark is not happening when it should
2.The spark is so weak it breaks down under compression.(this could point to capacitor failiure)

You say you were 'tuning' the car. What were you actually doing when it failed. Chances are it is where the answer lies, even if you were just leaning on the wing listing to the sound of your work what were you doing BEFORE you stood and listened? Had you loosened the distributor pinch bolt? This could cause the dizzy to turn and no longer be in sync with the timing. Did you accidently lean on the HT lead from cap to coil causing it to pull out slightly from either end? Is the low tension lead to the dizzy OK. Did that get stretched or pulled at all? Before looking for the highly unusual try the simple...it's less painful that way.

Yes of course it could just possibly something very unusual and highly improbable but like winning the lottery that only happens to other people. :)

Regards 
Alan Francis (partviking)
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From robert at clocksoft.com  Sun Sep  6 16:15:23 2009
From: robert at clocksoft.com (Robert Pinner)
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 2009 21:15:23 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AA4185B.3020203@clocksoft.com>

I had a similar problem on my 3500S, it would start and idle for a short 
time but wouldn't run. Tried changing all ignition components in the 
following order: plugs, points, coil, distributor cap, rotor arm, ht 
leads. Then started looking at fuel system, engine compression and even 
went as far as checking the valve lift and replacing head gaskets. 
Eventually decided I should change the condensor, it's been running 
great ever since.

Before doing anything else change the condensor and points.

Good luck

Robert


Dennis Brooks wrote:
>  
>  My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter 
> what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye 
> for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start.
>  Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died 
> again...like it was shut down..
>  I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it 
> quits...or at least it seems lke it.
>  Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
>  What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not 
> a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is 
> ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
>  
>  Regars
>  
>  Dennis Brooks
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Click less, mail more: Hotmail on the new MSN homepage! 
> <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677402>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 17:56:03 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 18:56:03 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
In-Reply-To: <4AA4185B.3020203@clocksoft.com>
References: <COL114-W2435CED3D282DE41BEC57DEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<4AA4185B.3020203@clocksoft.com>
Message-ID: <COL114-W46A9ADA5CEA4C8D2AF2879DEEC0@phx.gbl>



 Before doing anything else change the condensor and points.

 

I did change both ...the last time and it made no difference. I let the car sit for almost 6 months and recently went over everything again with a fresh outlook...and it started...while adjusting the timing it stalled and failed to restart...just like someone shut off the key switch. The car had been running a total of about 1 hour ...then just died ...

 I know a condensor can fail but this one is less than an hour old as for running time.

 
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 21:15:23 +0100
> From: robert at clocksoft.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quit again !!
> 
> I had a similar problem on my 3500S, it would start and idle for a short 
> time but wouldn't run. Tried changing all ignition components in the 
> following order: plugs, points, coil, distributor cap, rotor arm, ht 
> leads. Then started looking at fuel system, engine compression and even 
> went as far as checking the valve lift and replacing head gaskets. 
> Eventually decided I should change the condensor, it's been running 
> great ever since.
> 
> Before doing anything else change the condensor and points.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Robert
> 
> 
> Dennis Brooks wrote:
> > 
> > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter 
> > what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye 
> > for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start.
> > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died 
> > again...like it was shut down..
> > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it 
> > quits...or at least it seems lke it.
> > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal ??
> > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not 
> > a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is 
> > ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
> > 
> > Regars
> > 
> > Dennis Brooks
> > 
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Click less, mail more: Hotmail on the new MSN homepage! 
> > <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677402>
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 18:55:54 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 22:55:54 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Car yet again
Message-ID: <BAY119-W4664C62B46B7E240FB818ADEEC0@phx.gbl>


I totally agree with Alan..........As you were working on the car, retrace your steps as to the last thing you were doing before the trouble started..........

Seeing Lance's previous post for the air pressure for tires decal........every Rover i have or have had ; the decal was on the drivers door at the front ,under the vent window......both my 2000TC and my fathers 3500S when new from the dealer were in this configuration.........However i have seen them on the drivers door at the rear below the the opening mechanism..........I have never seen them on wheel wells under the hood , however i suspect like most things Rover....they were installed by the dealers wherever they felt like.....don't think they were put on at the factory

 

Cheers

Bill Robertson

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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Sun Sep  6 19:34:52 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 20:34:52 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!
Message-ID: <COL114-W64015D6F161EA51C92A51BDEEC0@phx.gbl>


Well..it did start...but I really don't know what I did ...I checked a few of the suggestions and I can only presume one of those things worked..my best guess is the coil connections...I did find a couple more vaccum leaks as well...

 Now..it is really rough running. The carbs are set pretty close and ballanced, the timing is correct but it spark knocks when under load...I tried resetting the timing a bit to solve that with no avail.

 It acts like one cylinder is not firing ...could it be that I have a burn't valve ?? ...I know the plugs are (were) good and so are the wires.  Add to that ...I think the waterpump has a leak...lol

 

 I don't have a compression testor ...something I will pick up however. The last time it was checked the # 5 and # 8 cyl's were about 20 lbs below the rest.

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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sun Sep  6 20:38:45 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 10:38:45 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W4048DA6B24991CE21F2DC4DEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.37.1252207326.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD1606947E@Server.adoptsec.local><COL114-W560AC422A8DE5F03935145DEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<71FF0A5EBDA543E6B5A939B75DD77244@Vista>
	<COL114-W4048DA6B24991CE21F2DC4DEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <06EE0FFD5AFC4E37A86675E25E5D3CDF@Vista>

I suspect it is intermittent.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis Brooks 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:27 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again



   If there was no 9V supply would it not have no spark at all ?? ...I still have a good sark at my #1 plug..  I did change the condensor...last time ..but I will try that again just in case the mystery problem is actually a different one this time ...my luck I may have two now...lol

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 23:07:27 +1000
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again


  The fact that it runs then suddenly stops says not coil.
  I'd look at the 9V supply followed by capacitor in distributor.

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Dennis Brooks 
    To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
    Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 11:00 PM
    Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again



      "I would start with changing the coil"
     
     I tried that the last time (and this time) with no luck...even tried a third coil just in case. The spark appears to be strong when turning over.
     
     
    > Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:36:32 +0800
    > From: den at aachenkennels.com
    > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
    > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My car quite again
    > 
    > Hi Dennis, I would start with changing the coil. What you describe is
    > something that can occur when the coil gets hot causing it to stop
    > working, no idea why I'm sure there's others on the list who do. I have
    > come across your problem before and sorted it buy nicking a mates just
    > to see if it worked which it did, had to put it back before he come
    > home..(smile)
    > 
    > In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
    > Den Gallacher
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > My 3500S was in the middle of being tuned and it just died...no matter
    > what I did it would not start ...so I took at the car with a close eye
    > for air leaks ...spark...etc...in the hopes of getting it to start. 
    > 
    > Well..today it started !! ...and while tuning ,,,the darned thing died
    > again...like it was shut down..
    > 
    > I think it's not getting a good vaccum...when it loses the vaccum it
    > quits...or at least it seems lke it.
    > 
    > Has anyone here had a similar delima ?? what checks beyond the normal
    > ??
    > 
    > What can cause a loss of vaccum from the engine ?? obviously it was not
    > a bad gasket ...they don't tend to heal themselves...so whatever it is
    > ...it seems to be recurrig..hmmm
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > Regars
    > 
    > 
    > 
    > Dennis Brooks
    > 
    > 
    > _______________________________________________
    > Rovernet mailing list
    > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
    > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
    > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
    > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
    > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
    > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
    > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


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----------------------------------------------------------------------------


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    Rovernet at rovernet.ca
    Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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    http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



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From ghegranes at msn.com  Mon Sep  7 13:35:03 2009
From: ghegranes at msn.com (Grant Hegranes)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:35:03 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W64015D6F161EA51C92A51BDEEC0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W64015D6F161EA51C92A51BDEEC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL106-W23F411728B7AB56B8C3964A3EB0@phx.gbl>


I had a similar problem on a domestic machine and it turned out to be the ignition switch. Basic rule... if it quits suddenly it is electrical, if it stumbles and then fails it is fuel/air related. Grant

From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 20:34:52 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!








Well..it did start...but I really don't know what I did ...I checked a few of the suggestions and I can only presume one of those things worked..my best guess is the coil connections...I did find a couple more vaccum leaks as well...

 Now..it is really rough running. The carbs are set pretty close and ballanced, the timing is correct but it spark knocks when under load...I tried resetting the timing a bit to solve that with no avail.

 It acts like one cylinder is not firing ...could it be that I have a burn't valve ?? ...I know the plugs are (were) good and so are the wires.  Add to that ...I think the waterpump has a leak...lol

 

 I don't have a compression testor ...something I will pick up however. The last time it was checked the # 5 and # 8 cyl's were about 20 lbs below the rest.

New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN homepage.
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  7 14:40:41 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 15:40:41 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W23F411728B7AB56B8C3964A3EB0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W64015D6F161EA51C92A51BDEEC0@phx.gbl>
	<COL106-W23F411728B7AB56B8C3964A3EB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL114-W110B650A7723EB86541ECFDEEB0@phx.gbl>



 That rule does make good sense...any rules out there to determine what amount of resistance there should be with a combo of spark plug attached to wire..I have discovered that some of mine differ widely...should they not be relativly similar..??


From: ghegranes at msn.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:35:03 +0000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!



I had a similar problem on a domestic machine and it turned out to be the ignition switch. Basic rule... if it quits suddenly it is electrical, if it stumbles and then fails it is fuel/air related. Grant



From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 20:34:52 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!



Well..it did start...but I really don't know what I did ...I checked a few of the suggestions and I can only presume one of those things worked..my best guess is the coil connections...I did find a couple more vaccum leaks as well...
 Now..it is really rough running. The carbs are set pretty close and ballanced, the timing is correct but it spark knocks when under load...I tried resetting the timing a bit to solve that with no avail.
 It acts like one cylinder is not firing ...could it be that I have a burn't valve ?? ...I know the plugs are (were) good and so are the wires.  Add to that ...I think the waterpump has a leak...lol
 
 I don't have a compression testor ...something I will pick up however. The last time it was checked the # 5 and # 8 cyl's were about 20 lbs below the rest.



New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN homepage.
_________________________________________________________________
New: Messenger sign-in on the MSN homepage
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From roger.matheson at bigpond.com  Wed Sep  2 07:51:55 2009
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (roger.matheson)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2009 21:51:55 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!
In-Reply-To: <COL106-W23F411728B7AB56B8C3964A3EB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001801ca2bc3$c5437530$0200000a@kvps.schools.nsw.edu.au>

With respect to the rough running and one cylinder not firing, have you
eliminated tracking between terminals in the distributor cap.  Tracks appear
as dark lines burnt into the plastic.  Ironically, improving the spark will
make this type of problem worse.   Cheers Roger  

 

  _____  

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Grant Hegranes
Sent: Tuesday, 8 September 2009 3:35 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!

 

I had a similar problem on a domestic machine and it turned out to be the
ignition switch. Basic rule... if it quits suddenly it is electrical, if it
stumbles and then fails it is fuel/air related. Grant

  _____  

From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 20:34:52 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!

Well..it did start...but I really don't know what I did ...I checked a few
of the suggestions and I can only presume one of those things worked..my
best guess is the coil connections...I did find a couple more vaccum leaks
as well...
 Now..it is really rough running. The carbs are set pretty close and
ballanced, the timing is correct but it spark knocks when under load...I
tried resetting the timing a bit to solve that with no avail.
 It acts like one cylinder is not firing ...could it be that I have a burn't
valve ?? ...I know the plugs are (were) good and so are the wires.  Add to
that ...I think the waterpump has a leak...lol
 
 I don't have a compression testor ...something I will pick up however. The
last time it was checked the # 5 and # 8 cyl's were about 20 lbs below the
rest.

  _____  

New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN homepage.
<http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677401> 

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From slatskars at comcast.net  Mon Sep  7 16:36:47 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 20:36:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !!
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W110B650A7723EB86541ECFDEEB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1309726982.8289551252355807450.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Dennis, 



There are basically three different types of ignition wire that you will come across. The first is solid copper. These should read very close to zero with an ohmeter. the second is a carbon filament wire. These should read no more than 20,000 ohms. the third type are also copper but very tightly wound and should read 10,000 ohms or less. If you have readings greater than listed, check the connection ends. In some cases the wire can be salvaged by simply removing the connector and cutting off about 1/4" of wire and re-inserting the connector. The resistance type of wires are for noice suppression for the radio. 



Slats 




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2009 11:40:41 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !! 


?That rule does make good sense...any rules out there to determine what amount of resistance there should be with a combo of spark plug attached to wire..I have discovered that some of mine differ widely...should they not be relativly similar..?? 





From: ghegranes at msn.com 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 17:35:03 +0000 
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !! 

I had a similar problem on a domestic machine and it turned out to be the ignition switch. Basic rule... if it quits suddenly it is electrical, if it stumbles and then fails it is fuel/air related. Grant 






From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 20:34:52 -0300 
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] It Started !! 

Well..it did start...but I really don't know what I did ...I checked a few of the suggestions and I can only presume one of those things worked..my best guess is the coil connections...I did find a couple more vaccum leaks as well... 
?Now..it is really rough running. The carbs are set pretty close and ballanced, the timing is correct but it spark knocks when under load...I tried resetting the timing a bit to solve that with no avail. 
?It acts like one cylinder is not firing ...could it be that I have a burn't valve ?? ...I know the plugs are (were) good and so are the wires.? Add to that ...I think the waterpump has a leak...lol 
? 
?I don't have a compression testor ...something I will pick up however. The last time it was checked the # 5 and # 8 cyl's were about 20 lbs below the rest. 






New! Hotmail sign-in on the MSN homepage. 





Less clicking: Hotmail access on the new MSN homepage. 
_______________________________________________ Rovernet mailing list Rovernet at rovernet.ca Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail: http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca Here is the old Rovernet archives: http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From roverman2 at verizon.net  Mon Sep  7 21:00:08 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 2009 21:00:08 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection	to
 carburation
In-Reply-To: <4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C9C34C93-C986-4066-9422-2128EF9B389E@verizon.net>

Heard from Franc Buxton recently. He's working for RPI I think, and  
doesn't seem to be all that interested in SD1 fuel injection any more.
I agree with Glen - Fuel injection is very desirable on the SD1 if  
you can sort it out.  I have some spare used components for sale, and  
plenty of US Spec ECU's.
Diagnosis of fuel injection problems requires methodically going  
through the list of possible faults, and being very sure that the  
problem is not related to something else. In my experience with the  
Fuel Injection on the SD1, poor injectors come high on the list. If  
the car has sat around with old gas in it, the injectors may be blocked.
I have a test setup for injectors so that I can time the delivery  
rate and look at the spray pattern. However, an alternative is to buy  
rebuilt injectors or find a place with a cleaning machine. Be sure to  
replace the fuel filters after you  replace the injectors.

Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics


On Sep 2, 2009, at 6:00 PM, Glen Wilson wrote:

> kyle Gruber wrote:
>> the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south.  
>> instead of trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much  
>> rather carb. the motor. it seems that this may reduce the  
>> headaches of playing with the stock fuel injection. is this a good  
>> alternative?
> Kyle, what country do you live in?
>
> Based on my personal experiences, I would suggest that you get some  
> advice from someone who knows the EFI system well before you bail  
> out on it.  Some large symptoms are fixed by simply resoldering  
> some leads in the ECU. Since the ECU is located conveniently under  
> the passenger side floor, it's easy to get at. Also, swapping in a  
> "known-good" ECU borrowed from a friend will definitely let you  
> know if the ECU is the problem. I think I've heard of people  
> swapping in some easily obtainable injectors from more common cars.
>
> The engine with the EFI is a somewhat more refined runner than one  
> that has been converted to a carb setup. If you like to tinker, the  
> carb might be a fun way to go, but you'd have to get the carb, an  
> intake manifold, rig up a new linkage and probably install a manual  
> choke.
>
> I bought an SD1 with a Holley 390 carb and could never get it set  
> up correctly. It's great for tinkerers and for racers, but it  
> really didn't suit the engine for daily driving and smooth running.  
> It could be set up to go like hell, but it wouldn't necessarily  
> idle at the traffic lights. Holleys can be adjusted and modified in  
> many ways, and some people love that, but you have to disassemble  
> the carb and deal with puddles of petrol for most changes.
>
> I later bought a Carter/Weber carb for the car. I put it on as it  
> came out of the box and the car ran quite well. You can optimize it  
> somewhat for the engine by buying an inexpensive set of jets,  
> springs and whatnot. All mods can be made with it on the engine  
> without spilling a drop of gasoline. The car ran very well with  
> this setup.
>
> Still, I'd make a stab at fixing the EFI, if it were my car.
>
> Was Frank Buxton the guru on this system, guys?
>
> Glen
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or  
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  7 22:58:20 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 22:58:20 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 2000 TC coolant hoses hoses.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.57.1252355800.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.57.1252355800.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W5A8002C33C0F9CB3A36C98EEA0@phx.gbl>



I was doing some filing today, and found some NAPA receipts for a complete set of coolant hoses for my Rover. Some of the hoses that they sold me did need cutting, and took them about 3 days to get. I decided to record the part numbers on my Rover spreadsheet. I have also visited the Gates website and crossed the part numbers from the NAPA NBH (Napa belts and hoses) to Gates numbers, and thought that other members would find this information very helpful.

Rover part number:  536589, NBH 9815, gates 28474, Heater hose, water outlet to bypass adaptor, may need trimming slightly.
Rover part number:  548334, NBH 8343, gates 21743, lower radiator hose, has different sizes at each end, you will only use one third of the hose, most will got to waste.
Rover part number: 549756, NBH 18737, gates 18737, inlet hose for radiator, some will need to be cut off.
Rover part number, 536588, NBH 10819, gates 18819, outlet hose for heater, will need to be cut.
Rover part number: 513909, NBH 8852, gates 22210, hose thermostat bypass to water pump, this one fits without cutting.
Rover part number: 548306, FF184, gates 25250, this is a flexible hose, not sure if it works on a cross flow radiator, it defintely works on a vertical flow radiator.

James.

_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackToSchool_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1
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From kgrubz at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 23:00:30 2009
From: kgrubz at gmail.com (kyle Gruber)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 23:00:30 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection to
	carburation
In-Reply-To: <4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <a61a6a680909072000l74aebc02pdaf030b9a04db673@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the advice guys. I am from the U.S. by the way. Michigan to be
more specific. I guess I will try to fix the fuel injection first. I have
already swapped in a good ECU from my dads TR8, but it did not change the
way the car ran. I know the US fuel injection was not as good performance
wise as the ones sold in Europe. would it be to my benefit to switch to the
European fuel injection?

On Wed, Sep 2, 2009 at 6:00 PM, Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net> wrote:

> kyle Gruber wrote:
>
>> the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south. instead of
>> trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much rather carb. the motor.
>> it seems that this may reduce the headaches of playing with the stock fuel
>> injection. is this a good alternative?
>>
> Kyle, what country do you live in?
>
> Based on my personal experiences, I would suggest that you get some advice
> from someone who knows the EFI system well before you bail out on it.  Some
> large symptoms are fixed by simply resoldering some leads in the ECU. Since
> the ECU is located conveniently under the passenger side floor, it's easy to
> get at. Also, swapping in a "known-good" ECU borrowed from a friend will
> definitely let you know if the ECU is the problem. I think I've heard of
> people swapping in some easily obtainable injectors from more common cars.
>
> The engine with the EFI is a somewhat more refined runner than one that has
> been converted to a carb setup. If you like to tinker, the carb might be a
> fun way to go, but you'd have to get the carb, an intake manifold, rig up a
> new linkage and probably install a manual choke.
>
> I bought an SD1 with a Holley 390 carb and could never get it set up
> correctly. It's great for tinkerers and for racers, but it really didn't
> suit the engine for daily driving and smooth running. It could be set up to
> go like hell, but it wouldn't necessarily idle at the traffic lights.
> Holleys can be adjusted and modified in many ways, and some people love
> that, but you have to disassemble the carb and deal with puddles of petrol
> for most changes.
>
> I later bought a Carter/Weber carb for the car. I put it on as it came out
> of the box and the car ran quite well. You can optimize it somewhat for the
> engine by buying an inexpensive set of jets, springs and whatnot. All mods
> can be made with it on the engine without spilling a drop of gasoline. The
> car ran very well with this setup.
>
> Still, I'd make a stab at fixing the EFI, if it were my car.
>
> Was Frank Buxton the guru on this system, guys?
>
> Glen
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
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From rovercar at comcast.net  Mon Sep  7 23:32:45 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 07 Sep 2009 23:32:45 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection
	to	carburation
In-Reply-To: <a61a6a680909072000l74aebc02pdaf030b9a04db673@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>	<4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
	<a61a6a680909072000l74aebc02pdaf030b9a04db673@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4AA5D05D.4010802@comcast.net>

kyle Gruber wrote:
> Thanks for the advice guys. I am from the U.S. by the way. Michigan to 
> be more specific. I guess I will try to fix the fuel injection first. 
> I have already swapped in a good ECU from my dads TR8, but it did not 
> change the way the car ran. I know the US fuel injection was not as 
> good performance wise as the ones sold in Europe. would it be to my 
> benefit to switch to the European fuel injection?
>

Sounds like you are just dying for a big project to take on, Kyle! 

See if you can sort out the setup you have since it may actually have a 
simple cause. The EFI in the US SD1 actually runs fairly well and is 
relatively simple, as EFI systems go. Others would know more than I do, 
but I would guess you next step up in sophistication would be an EFI 
system from a US-spec Range Rover. There must be some of them in the 
Michigan junkyards, though I'm not sure if the scrappers will want to 
separate them from good engines.

Glen


> On Wed, Sep 2, 2009 at 6:00 PM, Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net 
> <mailto:rovercar at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     kyle Gruber wrote:
>
>         the stock fuel injection on my 3500 rover sd1 is going south.
>         instead of trying to overhaul the fuel injection, I would much
>         rather carb. the motor. it seems that this may reduce the
>         headaches of playing with the stock fuel injection. is this a
>         good alternative?
>
>     Kyle, what country do you live in?
>
>     Based on my personal experiences, I would suggest that you get
>     some advice from someone who knows the EFI system well before you
>     bail out on it.  Some large symptoms are fixed by simply
>     resoldering some leads in the ECU. Since the ECU is located
>     conveniently under the passenger side floor, it's easy to get at.
>     Also, swapping in a "known-good" ECU borrowed from a friend will
>     definitely let you know if the ECU is the problem. I think I've
>     heard of people swapping in some easily obtainable injectors from
>     more common cars.
>
>     The engine with the EFI is a somewhat more refined runner than one
>     that has been converted to a carb setup. If you like to tinker,
>     the carb might be a fun way to go, but you'd have to get the carb,
>     an intake manifold, rig up a new linkage and probably install a
>     manual choke.
>
>     I bought an SD1 with a Holley 390 carb and could never get it set
>     up correctly. It's great for tinkerers and for racers, but it
>     really didn't suit the engine for daily driving and smooth
>     running. It could be set up to go like hell, but it wouldn't
>     necessarily idle at the traffic lights. Holleys can be adjusted
>     and modified in many ways, and some people love that, but you have
>     to disassemble the carb and deal with puddles of petrol for most
>     changes.
>
>     I later bought a Carter/Weber carb for the car. I put it on as it
>     came out of the box and the car ran quite well. You can optimize
>     it somewhat for the engine by buying an inexpensive set of jets,
>     springs and whatnot. All mods can be made with it on the engine
>     without spilling a drop of gasoline. The car ran very well with
>     this setup.
>
>     Still, I'd make a stab at fixing the EFI, if it were my car.
>
>     Was Frank Buxton the guru on this system, guys?
>
>     Glen
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Rovernet mailing list
>     Rovernet at rovernet.ca <mailto:Rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>     Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>     no-mail:
>     http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>     Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>     http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>     Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>     http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From den at aachenkennels.com  Tue Sep  8 00:32:35 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 12:32:35 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU Carburetor
References: <mailman.59.1252380771.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160694B7@Server.adoptsec.local>

Any of you blokes out there in restoration land know of where I can get
hold of three SU H2 1'1/8 or 1" 1/4 Carburettor's?

In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher




From slatskars at comcast.net  Tue Sep  8 02:05:38 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 06:05:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU Carburetor
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160694B7@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <397706164.8447301252389938815.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Dennis, 



Depending upon how much you want to spend they are available. In fact new ones are now available. I bought a pair of new H-4's a couple of years ago for $900. The current price from MOSS is $1274 and H-2's are $1145. The least expensive way to go is to pick up?used ones and rebuild them. The H type would be easier to string together that HS's or HIF's because of the type of connecting linkage. They can either be re-bushed back to standard size or reamed .010 oversize for new throttle shafts. Other than the shafts, rebuilding is pretty easy and straight forward. Look on eBay or Craig's list. Of course local swap meets, too. Putting together the choke linkage for three would be a challenge. Off hand, I think Jag, AC Ace and some Healy's used three carb setups. 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2009 9:32:35 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU Carburetor 

Any of you blokes out there in restoration land know of where I can get 
hold of three SU H2 1'1/8 or 1" 1/4 Carburettor's? 

In war there are no unwounded soldiers. 
Den Gallacher 



_______________________________________________ 
Rovernet mailing list 
Rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail: 
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca 
Here is the old Rovernet archives: 
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ 
Join the Back-up list and post photos at: 
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 
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From fab at jeengineering.co.uk  Tue Sep  8 03:54:07 2009
From: fab at jeengineering.co.uk (Franc Buxton)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 08:54:07 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Switching from fuel injection	to
	carburation
In-Reply-To: <C9C34C93-C986-4066-9422-2128EF9B389E@verizon.net>
References: <a61a6a680909021237t63bfb6b4tbfccf2c0cac6e5df@mail.gmail.com>	<4A9EEB0D.3000401@comcast.net>
	<C9C34C93-C986-4066-9422-2128EF9B389E@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4AA60D9F.1030108@jeengineering.co.uk>

Dermot Harvey wrote:
> Heard from Franc Buxton recently. He's working for RPI I think, and 
> doesn't seem to be all that interested in SD1 fuel injection any more.

	Not quite true, on any count! (Hi Dermot, how's things? :>) )

	I currently work for JE Engineering, and I am still willing to help
if I can. I still browse this list but don't read all posts so it might be
necessary to send private mail or put my name in the subject field if you
want my full attention! ;>) I don't actually have many spares for these systems
any more, so can't offer the sort of facilities I once could but it may still
be worth asking. I still (just about) have a test facility for ECUs and I could
probably still make adjustable units but demand, at least on this side of the
pond, is low to non-existent.

> I agree with Glen - Fuel injection is very desirable on the SD1 if you 
> can sort it out.  I have some spare used components for sale, and plenty 
> of US Spec ECU's.
> Diagnosis of fuel injection problems requires methodically going through 
> the list of possible faults, and being very sure that the problem is not 
> related to something else. In my experience with the Fuel Injection on 
> the SD1, poor injectors come high on the list. If the car has sat around 
> with old gas in it, the injectors may be blocked.
> I have a test setup for injectors so that I can time the delivery rate 
> and look at the spray pattern. However, an alternative is to buy rebuilt 
> injectors or find a place with a cleaning machine. Be sure to replace 
> the fuel filters after you  replace the injectors.
> 
	Can't disagree with any of that. I would choose fuel injection over
carb any time - but then I guess I'm biased! ;>))

	Cheers,
		Franc.

-- 

Franc Buxton
IT and Electronic Development Manager
J.E.Engineering Ltd, Coventry.

Die dulci fruimini


From gofanu at cust.usachoice.net  Tue Sep  8 13:09:08 2009
From: gofanu at cust.usachoice.net (Fletcher Millmore)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 13:09:08 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Den- SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1252425603.6904.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.3.1252425603.6904.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <4AA68FB4.4030805@usachoice.net>

r
>
>    1. SU Carburetor (Dennis Gallacher)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 12:32:35 +0800
> From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU Carburetor
> To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID:
> 	<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160694B7 at Server.adoptsec.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
> Any of you blokes out there in restoration land know of where I can get
> hold of three SU H2 1'1/8 or 1" 1/4 Carburettor's?
>
> In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
> Den Gallacher
>
>
>
>   
Den-
1 1/8" = H1
1 1/4" = H2
There are 1" and smaller ones, don't know the model designation, but 
they were used on motorcycles, so some are MC**.
A common early mod setup was using multiple Amals, so that's also cool 
for small bore mod motors.
Lot of difference there, which do you need?

You are looking at pre 62 cars mainly, since later are HS series.
H1 are most commonly on Frogeye Sprite, at least in US.
H2 are common to many under 1500cc cars, in single or double sets.
Your main problem is to find float bowls with the correct inclination to 
suit your mounting, since the manifold angle is reflected in the float 
bowl casting. The float bowl has to be vertical as mounted, and most 
common H2 are designed for angled mounting. If you can use HS2, float 
bowl angle is set by interchangeable grommets that have the angle built 
into the grommet rather than the bowl. HS2 and bits are very easy to find.
If you are trying to replicate correct carbs for something like a 6 cyl 
MG, there are a lot of differences in castings, etc for early carbs. 
Early carbs are mostly sand cast, and more brass bits. Very early may be 
all brass;  later are permanent mold injection zinc changing over to 
aluminum castings. You pretty much need to stay within the time frame 
for the car if looks are a factor.
3 carb sets normally have two float bowls of one hand, and one of the 
opposite hand.

And, I thank you for your tag line re war!

FRM


From den at aachenkennels.com  Tue Sep  8 20:23:52 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 08:23:52 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU's
References: <mailman.3.1252425603.6904.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160694C8@Server.adoptsec.local>

Thanks for the info, could you send me a link to the sites you mention.

In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher



------------------------------




Dennis, 



Depending upon how much you want to spend they are available. In fact
new ones are now available. I bought a pair of new H-4's a couple of
years ago for $900. The current price from MOSS is $1274 and H-2's are
$1145. The least expensive way to go is to pick up?used ones and rebuild
them. The H type would be easier to string together that HS's or HIF's
because of the type of connecting linkage. They can either be re-bushed
back to standard size or reamed .010 oversize for new throttle shafts.
Other than the shafts, rebuilding is pretty easy and straight forward.
Look on eBay or Craig's list. Of course local swap meets, too. Putting
together the choke linkage for three would be a challenge. Off hand, I
think Jag, AC Ace and some Healy's used three carb setups. 



Slats 


From travellak1 at netzero.net  Tue Sep  8 20:32:06 2009
From: travellak1 at netzero.net (Linus Tremaine)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 00:32:06 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
Message-ID: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

All,
I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a rover p4 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided to look into putting a p5 3 litre in it.  This is sort of silly from some points of view but I think that it would supply more power while keeping the truck sort of original or at least in the spirit of original. 

What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the same? I am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 any better? Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the same?

Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque curve.  


Help me make up my mind!
Lastly, is there anyone on the list in the california bay area who would let me drive a p5 or at least look at it?

thanks
Linus

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From veetwinrider at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  8 20:57:40 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 17:57:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
Message-ID: <640392.90478.qm@web180509.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Linus, you are welcome to check out my P5. Can't drive it too far as it is currently registered as non op and insurance has been suspended. But you can check out the dimensions etc.

roland
--- On Tue, 9/8/09, Linus Tremaine <travellak1 at netzero.net> wrote:


From: Linus Tremaine <travellak1 at netzero.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 5:32 PM


All,
I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a rover p4 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided to look into putting a p5 3 litre in it.? This is sort of silly from some points of view but I think that it would supply more power while keeping the truck sort of original or at least in the spirit of original. 

What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the same? I am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 any better? Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the same?

Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque curve.? 


Help me make up my mind!
Lastly, is there anyone on the list in the california bay area who would let me drive a p5 or at least look at it?

thanks
Linus

____________________________________________________________
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From travellak1 at netzero.net  Tue Sep  8 21:00:36 2009
From: travellak1 at netzero.net (Linus Tremaine)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 01:00:36 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
Message-ID: <20090908.180036.26012.1@webmail05.dca.untd.com>

Roland,
I am in santa cruz, where are you located?

831-359-2590

Linus

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From kkinard at att.net  Tue Sep  8 22:38:47 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 21:38:47 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4AA71537.8010703@att.net>

Hi Linus,
Nothing is silly if it interests you.  The truck you have is a 1967 and 
the 2.6 was only installed in the 109 station wagon if memory serves.  
The 3 litre is dimensionally the same as the 110 2.6, the main 
differences are in carburetor size (the 3.0 uses a 2" carb so the intake 
manifold is different) and more importantly, the bellhousing.  P4 "100", 
109 2.6, and P5 3.0 all use bellhousings with different parts numbers, 
so I would assume, since the P5 pieces are probably larger, that you 
would need to swap the bellhousing, flywheel and clutch from the 2.6 
onto the 3.0.  I believe someone on the list has done this.  I have done 
the 2.6 to 3.0 conversion on a P4, but used the larger P5 bellhousing 
and flywheel with some additional modifications because the 2.6 in the 
car was an earlier 4 main 105S.  If you do not have the special parts 
book supplement for the '67 109 2.6, I have one for sale.  Contact me 
off list.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Linus Tremaine wrote:
> All,
> I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a rover p4 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided to look into putting a p5 3 litre in it.  This is sort of silly from some points of view but I think that it would supply more power while keeping the truck sort of original or at least in the spirit of original. 
>
> What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the same? I am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 any better? Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the same?
>
> Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque curve.  
>
>
> Help me make up my mind!
> Lastly, is there anyone on the list in the california bay area who would let me drive a p5 or at least look at it?
>
> thanks
> Linus
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Save on Cell Phones. Click Now!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxWD8CKIVVYctQ39SzyCMPQQclE2hwE5qQTA7H2lIYYttDrpKb2IWM/
>
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> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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>
>   



From kkinard at att.net  Tue Sep  8 22:45:18 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 21:45:18 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help-addendum
In-Reply-To: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4AA716BE.2000907@att.net>

Almost forgot.  When you go shopping for a 3.0, it must be from a Mk. II 
or later (preferably a Mk. IIc or Mk. III, since they use the same head 
as the 2.6 110).  If a Mk. II it must have a standard transmission.  Mk. 
I engines are much less powerful.  -KK

Linus Tremaine wrote:
> All,
> I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a rover p4 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided to look into putting a p5 3 litre in it.  This is sort of silly from some points of view but I think that it would supply more power while keeping the truck sort of original or at least in the spirit of original. 
>
> What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the same? I am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 any better? Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the same?
>
> Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque curve.  
>
>
> Help me make up my mind!
> Lastly, is there anyone on the list in the california bay area who would let me drive a p5 or at least look at it?
>
> thanks
> Linus
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Save on Cell Phones. Click Now!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxWD8CKIVVYctQ39SzyCMPQQclE2hwE5qQTA7H2lIYYttDrpKb2IWM/
>
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> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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>
>   



From slatskars at comcast.net  Wed Sep  9 00:35:14 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 04:35:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU's
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160694C8@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <970722075.8933201252470914056.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



www.mossmotors.com ? www.ebay.com ? www.craigslist.com???Good luck with your project. 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Gallacher" <den at aachenkennels.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2009 5:23:52 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU's 

Thanks for the info, could you send me a link to the sites you mention. 

In war there are no unwounded soldiers. 
Den Gallacher 



------------------------------ 




Dennis, 


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From travellak1 at netzero.net  Wed Sep  9 01:31:31 2009
From: travellak1 at netzero.net (Linus Tremaine)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 05:31:31 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
Message-ID: <20090908.223131.8856.2@webmail07.dca.untd.com>

Kent,
thanks for the info. I was hoping the bellhousings were the same but nothing is ever as easy as you hope. 

The land rover 2.6 uses an SU HD8 with a 2" bore, what carb does the 3 litre use?

>From what you are saying I am assuming that the block is the same or is it just similar?

Linus- 

PS  I have a 2.6 supplement, thanks!



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From Pjemail at aol.com  Wed Sep  9 03:05:40 2009
From: Pjemail at aol.com (Pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 03:05:40 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
Message-ID: <c25.62810d7f.37d8adc4@aol.com>

Dear Linus,
 
Kent's information is generally correct but I should add a few further  
points.
 
(i)     I don't think the bellhousing difference  presents a problem; just 
use your old one
(ii)    If you are prepared to re-use your old cylinder  head there is 
nothing wrong with a Mark I or IA engine,
        but again you must make sure  that you have a manual one. But note 
that the engines prior to suffix C Mark II  engines did not have the drain 
hole at the rear of the block, so you will need  to block this on the 
cylinder head
(iii)    The 3 litre crankshaft has a different  bolthole arrangement for 
the flywheel; you will need to get a flywheel from a  2.25 Litre Land Rover 
or a Rover 80.
(iv)    You can convert your own engine by changing the  crankshaft and 
conrods, but only the wide journal crankshaft will fit your  block, i.e. from a 
Mark II suffic C onwards.
(v)    Ideally you should use a 3 Litre inlet manifold  as these are 
different from the ones on the 110 engine.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Wed Sep  9 03:37:32 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 17:37:32 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <FF0FDC6F41614A679F56B20B244F342C@Vista>

Just make sure your P5 has the original engine in it After his test drive!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linus Tremaine" <travellak1 at netzero.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 10:32 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help


> All,
> I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a rover p4 
> 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided to look into 
> putting a p5 3 litre in it.  This is sort of silly from some points of 
> view but I think that it would supply more power while keeping the truck 
> sort of original or at least in the spirit of original.
>
> What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the same? I 
> am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 any better? 
> Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the same?
>
> Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque 
> curve.
>
>
> Help me make up my mind!
> Lastly, is there anyone on the list in the california bay area who would 
> let me drive a p5 or at least look at it?
>
> thanks
> Linus
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Save on Cell Phones. Click Now!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxWD8CKIVVYctQ39SzyCMPQQclE2hwE5qQTA7H2lIYYttDrpKb2IWM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From kkinard at att.net  Wed Sep  9 08:06:23 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 07:06:23 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <20090908.223131.8856.2@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090908.223131.8856.2@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4AA79A3F.3040305@att.net>

Linus Tremaine wrote:
> Kent,
> thanks for the info. I was hoping the bellhousings were the same but nothing is ever as easy as you hope. 
>   
I wish I had a P4 110 bellhousing to measure so I would know for sure 
what the difference is.  I do not have the Land Rover parts, books, only 
the 2.6 / 110 supplement.
> The land rover 2.6 uses an SU HD8 with a 2" bore, what carb does the 3 litre use?
>   
OK.  Intake and carb are the right size but should be re-jetted for the 3.0.
> >From what you are saying I am assuming that the block is the same or is it just similar?
Cranks will interchange (same part number for main bearings) so blocks 
should be the same.
> Linus- 
>
> PS  I have a 2.6 supplement, thanks!
>   
Hope this helps.  Dream on.

Roverly,
Kent K.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Handyman Franchises. Click Here.
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>
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> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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>
>   



From smokeandsteam at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 12:03:22 2009
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 09:03:22 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
References: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <204ec4390909090903k6d1d3c17se2f8bbe32da71d9c@mail.gmail.com>

Linus

A little depends on what sort of engine you have.  Late NADA 6
cylinder trucks had the Weslake head rather than the pattern used on
all other 2.6 Land Rovers, and (from memory) also had a timing cover
specific to that version. These engines developed  peak torque at much
higher revs than the usual Land Rover engine   - in my view they
really benefit from an overdrive for on road use.

Other wise I'm inclined to agree with Kent that this should be a
reasonably straight forward job. You might get some other ideas from
here - TeriAnn Wakeman's idea's on drivetrain are worth reading if
you're upgrading the engine.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/engine_conversions.htm

Also if you plan on using that new found ability to cruise at 70 plus,
please do think about the brakes


From slatskars at comcast.net  Wed Sep  9 13:46:14 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 17:46:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <20090908.223131.8856.2@webmail07.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1060482751.9123501252518374102.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



The P-5 also uses an HD-8 carb. I would not worry about the jetting, SU's have only two sizes of jets and I would bet that the HD-8 has the larger one. You might need to change the needle, but I would give the original a try first. 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linus Tremaine" <travellak1 at netzero.net> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2009 10:31:31 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help 

Kent, 
thanks for the info. I was hoping the bellhousings were the same but nothing is ever as easy as you hope. 

The land rover 2.6 uses an SU HD8 with a 2" bore, what carb does the 3 litre use? 

>From what you are saying I am assuming that the block is the same or is it just similar? 

Linus- 

PS ?I have a 2.6 supplement, thanks! 



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tHE p-5 ALSO USES AN hd-8
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From kkinard at att.net  Wed Sep  9 17:17:59 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 16:17:59 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lloyd
Message-ID: <4AA81B87.60101@att.net>

Hi Lloyd,
Dirk says you didn't get my last email and now I've lost your address.

Kent K.


From jhdolan at sover.net  Wed Sep  9 19:33:31 2009
From: jhdolan at sover.net (j Dolan)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 19:33:31 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <mailman.67.1252474339.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.67.1252474339.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <6d445cdde71c65c0ff27c43f1b03017c@sover.net>


>  Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 00:32:06 GMT
> From: "Linus Tremaine" <travellak1 at netzero.net>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Message-ID: <20090908.173206.26012.0 at webmail05.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> All,
> I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a 
> rover p4 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided to 
> look into putting a p5 3 litre in it.  This is sort of silly from some 
> points of view but I think that it would supply more power while 
> keeping the truck sort of original or at least in the spirit of 
> original.
>
> What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the same? 
> I am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 any 
> better? Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the same?
>
> Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque 
> curve.
>

Hi Linus-
  I think the major consideration is your last question up there. LR did 
make a 3 litre 109 for a spell, but they adapted/evolved to the 2.6 
litre variant quickly. They had a problem with connecting rods in the 
3L twisting and distorting under low end and high torque demand 
situations. If you're going to encounter such in your LR, you might 
want to consider that. If you'd like, I could probably find reference 
to online conversations relating to that. Otherwise, I'd think it would 
be easy enough to make the conversion. And thanks for asking that 
question- I learned quite a bit reading the replies. If you do go with 
the 3L,I'd second that you go with the later MkII motor and its newer 
design head. While the MkI has a very sweet motor, it is a little 
'doggy'.

jim in Vermont
   '60 P5 MkI 4 spd w/OD
   '61 LR 88" 



From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  9 20:57:13 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 21:57:13 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel octane
Message-ID: <COL114-W16CD63AEB0F8E190A6646ADEE80@phx.gbl>


 

 I know this was covered here long ago...but... I can only get 91 octane fuel (research method)..and as most here know the 3500S requires an absolute minimum of 96 octane ...and that was rated by a higher grade level than the current research method used today. The manual clearly allows us to detune the engine to use the inferior fuel but only down to 96...what the heck can I do ??? Those cans of octane boost are proven to not be of any measured value...so..am I to detune the engine even further ??

 I don't want to burn out the valves and the seats are already hardened as I understand according to the engine specs...I am adding a lead additive (needed or not) but the fuel octane is a problem ..perhaps today's fuel is able to make up for some of the lack inoctane ...

 

 Regards

 

 Dennis Brooks

_________________________________________________________________
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  9 21:03:26 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 22:03:26 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Heat range for spark plugs
Message-ID: <COL114-W44213234AA072E8F944A46DEE80@phx.gbl>


 

 I have a question ...With the many changes made in fuel over the past 40 years is it possible that the requirements for spark plugs may have to be changed to suit this new fuel ?? I am sure it has changed enough that the ignition point has been altered as well..I had one cylinder that was not firing properly on the recomended plug...I changed that one (good) plug for a hotter plug and the cylinder began to work properly. I should also note that the cylinder is showing less compression than the others and perhaps the hotter plug may have made a difference for that reason as well...I'm not really sure but i am pleased that it runs much better now.

 

 Regards

 Dennis Brooks

_________________________________________________________________
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http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677406
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From smokeandsteam at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 22:10:18 2009
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 19:10:18 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel octane
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W16CD63AEB0F8E190A6646ADEE80@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W16CD63AEB0F8E190A6646ADEE80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <204ec4390909091910s9667ca9m92584bb0165cb779@mail.gmail.com>

FX <The sound of a can of worms being opened>

Octane is measured in two ways and often sold in a third. Measured
values and Motor MON and Research RON, and what is written on the pump
 in the US is Pump Ocatne (PON) and is the average of the two other
numbers

Motor octane tends to give a lower number rating than research as the
method of measurement is slightly different  - the difference is
usually somewhere in the high single digits or low dounle digits, but
the difference between the two tends to vary according the the exact
composition of the fuel.

So what is sold as 91 (PON) may have an MON of 86 and and RON of 96,
(or 87 and 96). Are you sure the stuff you can get is only 91
Research?

Rover used the RON value when specifying the fuel to be used in their
cars, so 91 at the pump will have a value fairly close to the 96
octane.

As to what to do well, a genuine lead additive will raise the octane
anyway as that was it's original purpose. The manufacturer should be
able to tell you what the effects are for agiven amount of additive in
so much fuel. On the other hand f its simply a lead replacement  then
it may tend  act to protect the valve seats but wonlt necessarilty
help with the octane problem.

If all you can get is really only 91RON, you've got several possible
courses of action. This isn't exhaustive but might give you some ideas

1 See if the car can be persuaded to run well by retarding the timing
further . I think Rover were somewhat conservative when they suggested
the TDC static setting on 96 octane -. You will lose some fuel economy
of course, and getting the timing is a matter of trial and error -  if
the engine pinks under a load such as accelerating up a hill back off
a bit more and try again

2 Buy a legal high performance octane booster  - not cheap but if you
don't do a lot of miles may be the most economical option after option
1. Try 20 percent toluene as an additive for a start, but this may not
be legal everywhere

3 Buy AVGAS or racing fuel and try not to get caught using it on the
highway. Both types tend to be expensive, may not be environmentally
reponsible and are probaly illegal in most places (and that can get
even more expensive)

4 Think about using composite headgaskets which are thicker and will
drop the compression ratio about 0.5 and will let you bring the timimg
forward a fraction

5 Find and fit a set of SD1 heads  will  lower the compression ratio a
touch and  also breathe better though having bigger valves- I believe
heads from an older Range Rover will work equally well but I haven't
actually done this

6 Consider an LPG or CNG set up if it's legal where you live.- both
have much higher octane ratings than gasoline (California apparently
has rules to stop us using this unless it's an apporved installation
for that vehicle regardless of any environmental and economic
benefits)







On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 5:57 PM, Dennis Brooks<goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?I know this was covered here long ago...but... I can only get 91 octane
> fuel (research method)..and as most here know the 3500S requires an absolute
> minimum of 96 octane ...and that was rated by a higher grade level than the
> current research method used today. The manual clearly allows us to detune
> the engine to use the inferior fuel but only down to 96...what the heck can
> I do ??? Those cans of octane boost are proven to not be of any measured
> value...so..am I to detune the engine even further ??
> ?I don't want to burn out the valves and the seats are already hardened as I
> understand according to the engine specs...I am adding a lead additive
> (needed or not) but the fuel octane is a problem ..perhaps today's fuel is
> able to make up for some of the lack inoctane ...
>
> ?Regards
>
> ?Dennis Brooks
>
> ________________________________
> Faster Hotmail access now on the new MSN homepage.
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>


From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  9 22:27:04 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 23:27:04 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel octane
In-Reply-To: <204ec4390909091910s9667ca9m92584bb0165cb779@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL114-W16CD63AEB0F8E190A6646ADEE80@phx.gbl>
	<204ec4390909091910s9667ca9m92584bb0165cb779@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL114-W6212E4B813C3A447A0D1C3DEE80@phx.gbl>


That's a whole lot of excellent information...!!!  I happen to live near an Irving refinery and a few years ago I spoke with one of the engineers who was responsible for the actual mix and additives they used. I think I will try to reach someone there again to confirm what is actually being sold in our local pumps. I did try to buy av gas and was not succusful...however the fellow at Irving actually scoffed at the value of any fuel additives,,,perhaps all we can buy here is the cheap stuff ... Now that tolene sounds like it may be something to check into...where can such a product be located ? I don't expect to change the heads anytime soon or convert to propane (too few propane stations here)...but if I have my heads done I plan to use the composite in anycase but I never knew the compression reduction benifet.

 AV gas in this area is reported to be 105 octand ...if I could get a source I would even consider mixing it and raising the octane .

 
 
> Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 19:10:18 -0700
> From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel octane
> 
> FX <The sound of a can of worms being opened>
> 
> Octane is measured in two ways and often sold in a third. Measured
> values and Motor MON and Research RON, and what is written on the pump
> in the US is Pump Ocatne (PON) and is the average of the two other
> numbers
> 
> Motor octane tends to give a lower number rating than research as the
> method of measurement is slightly different - the difference is
> usually somewhere in the high single digits or low dounle digits, but
> the difference between the two tends to vary according the the exact
> composition of the fuel.
> 
> So what is sold as 91 (PON) may have an MON of 86 and and RON of 96,
> (or 87 and 96). Are you sure the stuff you can get is only 91
> Research?
> 
> Rover used the RON value when specifying the fuel to be used in their
> cars, so 91 at the pump will have a value fairly close to the 96
> octane.
> 
> As to what to do well, a genuine lead additive will raise the octane
> anyway as that was it's original purpose. The manufacturer should be
> able to tell you what the effects are for agiven amount of additive in
> so much fuel. On the other hand f its simply a lead replacement then
> it may tend act to protect the valve seats but wonlt necessarilty
> help with the octane problem.
> 
> If all you can get is really only 91RON, you've got several possible
> courses of action. This isn't exhaustive but might give you some ideas
> 
> 1 See if the car can be persuaded to run well by retarding the timing
> further . I think Rover were somewhat conservative when they suggested
> the TDC static setting on 96 octane -. You will lose some fuel economy
> of course, and getting the timing is a matter of trial and error - if
> the engine pinks under a load such as accelerating up a hill back off
> a bit more and try again
> 
> 2 Buy a legal high performance octane booster - not cheap but if you
> don't do a lot of miles may be the most economical option after option
> 1. Try 20 percent toluene as an additive for a start, but this may not
> be legal everywhere
> 
> 3 Buy AVGAS or racing fuel and try not to get caught using it on the
> highway. Both types tend to be expensive, may not be environmentally
> reponsible and are probaly illegal in most places (and that can get
> even more expensive)
> 
> 4 Think about using composite headgaskets which are thicker and will
> drop the compression ratio about 0.5 and will let you bring the timimg
> forward a fraction
> 
> 5 Find and fit a set of SD1 heads will lower the compression ratio a
> touch and also breathe better though having bigger valves- I believe
> heads from an older Range Rover will work equally well but I haven't
> actually done this
> 
> 6 Consider an LPG or CNG set up if it's legal where you live.- both
> have much higher octane ratings than gasoline (California apparently
> has rules to stop us using this unless it's an apporved installation
> for that vehicle regardless of any environmental and economic
> benefits)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 5:57 PM, Dennis Brooks<goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >  I know this was covered here long ago...but... I can only get 91 octane
> > fuel (research method)..and as most here know the 3500S requires an absolute
> > minimum of 96 octane ...and that was rated by a higher grade level than the
> > current research method used today. The manual clearly allows us to detune
> > the engine to use the inferior fuel but only down to 96...what the heck can
> > I do ??? Those cans of octane boost are proven to not be of any measured
> > value...so..am I to detune the engine even further ??
> >  I don't want to burn out the valves and the seats are already hardened as I
> > understand according to the engine specs...I am adding a lead additive
> > (needed or not) but the fuel octane is a problem ..perhaps today's fuel is
> > able to make up for some of the lack inoctane ...
> >
> >  Regards
> >
> >  Dennis Brooks
> >
> > ________________________________
> > Faster Hotmail access now on the new MSN homepage.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
New! Open Messenger faster on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677405
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From gofanu at cust.usachoice.net  Wed Sep  9 23:11:35 2009
From: gofanu at cust.usachoice.net (Fletcher Millmore)
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 23:11:35 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU jets & Octane #s
In-Reply-To: <mailman.71.1252549617.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.71.1252549617.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <4AA86E67.4060604@usachoice.net>

Slats-
three sizes of SU jets, .090, .100,. .125
All H*8 use .125
H*6 usually .100, H*4 and down usually .090

Dennis -
The numbers on the pump in the US are the average or Pump Octane, not 
Research. (even in Cafilornia!)
As discussed 91 or 92 Pump will be close to 95 or 96 Research.

If you have low compression in one hole, do not try to "cure" it by 
using the hotter plug, despite the fact that it will make the cylinder 
run. Doing so will pretty well guarantee destruction of the head and 
valve if it is a valve seating problem, which is most likely. Hardened 
seats will not prevent it - the hot gases will cut right through the 
seat and into the head - I've got a 2000 TC head here that was treated 
that way.

FRM


From travellak1 at netzero.net  Thu Sep 10 00:17:13 2009
From: travellak1 at netzero.net (Linus Tremaine)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 04:17:13 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
Message-ID: <20090909.211713.20638.2@webmail18.dca.untd.com>

Jim,
I have never heard of a land rover with the 3 litre engine. Do you know more about it?

The reason I want to do an engine change is mostly for up hill climbing and acceleration from stops into traffic. I dont need a higher top end speed and a little more low end power would really be nice. 


Linus

____________________________________________________________
Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2231/fc/BLSrjnxVIxzBuTe3LQlBGDAKC5QcrMWMqr64Z1ys2PcOdPQZMerg0NHXbe4/


From slatskars at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 01:28:35 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 05:28:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU jets & Octane #s
In-Reply-To: <4AA86E67.4060604@usachoice.net>
Message-ID: <1397077548.9436791252560515807.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Yes, you are correct. I got lazy and relied on my memory instead of finding the right book. 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Fletcher Millmore" <gofanu at cust.usachoice.net> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2009 8:11:35 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SU jets & Octane #s 

Slats- 
three sizes of SU jets, .090, .100,. .125 
All H*8 use .125 
H*6 usually .100, H*4 and down usually .090 

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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Thu Sep 10 05:34:54 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 11:34:54 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Land Rover Help - Land rover Engines
	Conversion
In-Reply-To: <204ec4390909090903k6d1d3c17se2f8bbe32da71d9c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090908.173206.26012.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com>
	<204ec4390909090903k6d1d3c17se2f8bbe32da71d9c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE301554C50@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>


 Very very interesting!

Thanks for the link.

I do not own a Land rover, but I will!!

Best regards, Gianluca.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton
Inviato: mercoled? 9 settembre 2009 18.03
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help - Land rover Engines Conversion

Linus

A little depends on what sort of engine you have.  Late NADA 6 cylinder trucks had the Weslake head rather than the pattern used on all other 2.6 Land Rovers, and (from memory) also had a timing cover specific to that version. These engines developed  peak torque at much
higher revs than the usual Land Rover engine   - in my view they
really benefit from an overdrive for on road use.

Other wise I'm inclined to agree with Kent that this should be a reasonably straight forward job. You might get some other ideas from here - TeriAnn Wakeman's idea's on drivetrain are worth reading if you're upgrading the engine.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/engine_conversions.htm

Also if you plan on using that new found ability to cruise at 70 plus, please do think about the brakes

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


From rovercar at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 08:44:54 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 08:44:54 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Jim Dolan
In-Reply-To: <6d445cdde71c65c0ff27c43f1b03017c@sover.net>
References: <mailman.67.1252474339.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<6d445cdde71c65c0ff27c43f1b03017c@sover.net>
Message-ID: <4AA8F4C6.4040305@comcast.net>

Hi, Jim!

Good to know you're still out there!

Glen


j Dolan wrote:
>
>>  Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 00:32:06 GMT
>> From: "Linus Tremaine" <travellak1 at netzero.net>
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Message-ID: <20090908.173206.26012.0 at webmail05.dca.untd.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>>
>> All,
>> I have a land rover truck that was supplied new with a 2.6 from a 
>> rover p4 110. I am interested in an engine upgrade and have decided 
>> to look into putting a p5 3 litre in it.  This is sort of silly from 
>> some points of view but I think that it would supply more power while 
>> keeping the truck sort of original or at least in the spirit of 
>> original.
>>
>> What are the differences between these engines? Is the block the 
>> same? I am familiar with the hazards of parts for the 2.6 is the 3 
>> any better? Items such as water pumps are hard to get- are they the 
>> same?
>>
>> Does anyone know the power specs on it- I am interested in the torque 
>> curve.
>>
>
> Hi Linus-
>  I think the major consideration is your last question up there. LR 
> did make a 3 litre 109 for a spell, but they adapted/evolved to the 
> 2.6 litre variant quickly. They had a problem with connecting rods in 
> the 3L twisting and distorting under low end and high torque demand 
> situations. If you're going to encounter such in your LR, you might 
> want to consider that. If you'd like, I could probably find reference 
> to online conversations relating to that. Otherwise, I'd think it 
> would be easy enough to make the conversion. And thanks for asking 
> that question- I learned quite a bit reading the replies. If you do go 
> with the 3L,I'd second that you go with the later MkII motor and its 
> newer design head. While the MkI has a very sweet motor, it is a 
> little 'doggy'.
>
> jim in Vermont
>   '60 P5 MkI 4 spd w/OD
>   '61 LR 88"
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>



From jhdolan at sover.net  Thu Sep 10 14:28:06 2009
From: jhdolan at sover.net (j Dolan)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 14:28:06 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1252598411.8634.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.10.1252598411.8634.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <8d8cd0ffc61419ae1d0515f851eadaa5@sover.net>


>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 04:17:13 GMT
> From: "Linus Tremaine" <travellak1 at netzero.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Land Rover Help
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Message-ID: <20090909.211713.20638.2 at webmail18.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Jim,
> I have never heard of a land rover with the 3 litre engine. Do you 
> know more about it?
>
> The reason I want to do an engine change is mostly for up hill 
> climbing and acceleration from stops into traffic. I dont need a 
> higher top end speed and a little more low end power would really be 
> nice.
>
They were only briefly produced,and in limited numbers, owing to how 
soon they learned of the con rod problem. I've never seen one, but have 
read of them. You might check the Land Rover Owner Digest and search 
their archives. If you're considering doing such things, that is a good 
place to have access to, as someone has likely already done it or knows 
someone who has.
      To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	     http://oryooki.caloccia.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
      or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	     lro-request at land-rover.team.net
If you asked a question there, you'd certainly get an answer. I'll see 
what I can dig up over the weekend.

jim in Vermont
   '60 P5 MkI 4 spd w/OD
   '61 LR IIa  88" w/16's, OD, 1 Bbl Weber, etc.




From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 10 14:59:17 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 18:59:17 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
Message-ID: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>


Can anyone put up some experience/stats on the **normal** rate of engine oil consumption on one of these units please?

 

Assume an engine that has new valve guides, valve guide oil seals and has a new set of piston rings installed into an original, well maintained engine 5,000 miles ago with 75,000 miles wear in the cylinder bores. [Not some hammered unit just returned from its third voyage to Mars.]

 

I know these units were oil burners even when new, but would like to get some benchmark data.

 

Thanks in advance!

_________________________________________________________________
Take a peek at other people's pay and perks Check out The Great Australian Pay Check
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157639755/direct/01/
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From phing at videotron.ca  Thu Sep 10 23:36:15 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:36:15 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>

Hi 

 When I was but a lad working as an engineer in the UK I used to drive P4s
which were passed down to the engineer's pool after two years as chauffeur
driven  director's cars , maintained in the company garage.. These cream
puffs used to do around 250 to 300 miles per pint  of Castrol 's new fangled
20W 40 multigrade oil at 20,000 miles .

 Cheers 

 Patrick 

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 2:59 PM
To: rover net
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption

 

Can anyone put up some experience/stats on the **normal** rate of engine oil
consumption on one of these units please?
 
Assume an engine that has new valve guides, valve guide oil seals and has a
new set of piston rings installed into an original, well maintained engine
5,000 miles ago with 75,000 miles wear in the cylinder bores. [Not some
hammered unit just returned from its third voyage to Mars.]
 
I know these units were oil burners even when new, but would like to get
some benchmark data.
 
Thanks in advance!

  _____  

Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a
<http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157639755/direct/01/>  peek at other people's
pay and perks

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From rovercar at comcast.net  Fri Sep 11 00:23:42 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 00:23:42 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] =?iso-8859-1?q?BBC_NEWS_-_Rover_bosses?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?_took_=A342m_from_firm?=
Message-ID: <4AA9D0CE.2080007@comcast.net>

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/8248923.stm

The four Phoenix executives ?42m in pay and benefits after having paid 
BMW on ?10 for Rover.


From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 11 01:25:07 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 02:25:07 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel octane
In-Reply-To: <204ec4390909091910s9667ca9m92584bb0165cb779@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL114-W16CD63AEB0F8E190A6646ADEE80@phx.gbl>
	<204ec4390909091910s9667ca9m92584bb0165cb779@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <COL114-W5738714D600517EEBF2DEBDEE70@phx.gbl>


You were so very righ ton Adrian !!

 I got in touch with a local man who has 30 ears experience blending fuel ...he repeated what you said almost word for word...plus a whole lot more that I am still digesting lol.

 The research # is actually 95 and I have located a lead substitute that I will be adding to my fuel.
 He did also mention that in the states there is 93 octane (pump value)  and if I can get some of that I would be well within my safe range....not much help to me located where I am ...but perhaps our southern friends would like to hear the news (if indeed it is ) lol

 

 
> Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 19:10:18 -0700
> From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel octane
> 
> FX <The sound of a can of worms being opened>
> 
> Octane is measured in two ways and often sold in a third. Measured
> values and Motor MON and Research RON, and what is written on the pump
> in the US is Pump Ocatne (PON) and is the average of the two other
> numbers
> 
> Motor octane tends to give a lower number rating than research as the
> method of measurement is slightly different - the difference is
> usually somewhere in the high single digits or low dounle digits, but
> the difference between the two tends to vary according the the exact
> composition of the fuel.
> 
> So what is sold as 91 (PON) may have an MON of 86 and and RON of 96,
> (or 87 and 96). Are you sure the stuff you can get is only 91
> Research?
> 
> Rover used the RON value when specifying the fuel to be used in their
> cars, so 91 at the pump will have a value fairly close to the 96
> octane.
> 
> As to what to do well, a genuine lead additive will raise the octane
> anyway as that was it's original purpose. The manufacturer should be
> able to tell you what the effects are for agiven amount of additive in
> so much fuel. On the other hand f its simply a lead replacement then
> it may tend act to protect the valve seats but wonlt necessarilty
> help with the octane problem.
> 
> If all you can get is really only 91RON, you've got several possible
> courses of action. This isn't exhaustive but might give you some ideas
> 
> 1 See if the car can be persuaded to run well by retarding the timing
> further . I think Rover were somewhat conservative when they suggested
> the TDC static setting on 96 octane -. You will lose some fuel economy
> of course, and getting the timing is a matter of trial and error - if
> the engine pinks under a load such as accelerating up a hill back off
> a bit more and try again
> 
> 2 Buy a legal high performance octane booster - not cheap but if you
> don't do a lot of miles may be the most economical option after option
> 1. Try 20 percent toluene as an additive for a start, but this may not
> be legal everywhere
> 
> 3 Buy AVGAS or racing fuel and try not to get caught using it on the
> highway. Both types tend to be expensive, may not be environmentally
> reponsible and are probaly illegal in most places (and that can get
> even more expensive)
> 
> 4 Think about using composite headgaskets which are thicker and will
> drop the compression ratio about 0.5 and will let you bring the timimg
> forward a fraction
> 
> 5 Find and fit a set of SD1 heads will lower the compression ratio a
> touch and also breathe better though having bigger valves- I believe
> heads from an older Range Rover will work equally well but I haven't
> actually done this
> 
> 6 Consider an LPG or CNG set up if it's legal where you live.- both
> have much higher octane ratings than gasoline (California apparently
> has rules to stop us using this unless it's an apporved installation
> for that vehicle regardless of any environmental and economic
> benefits)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 5:57 PM, Dennis Brooks<goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >  I know this was covered here long ago...but... I can only get 91 octane
> > fuel (research method)..and as most here know the 3500S requires an absolute
> > minimum of 96 octane ...and that was rated by a higher grade level than the
> > current research method used today. The manual clearly allows us to detune
> > the engine to use the inferior fuel but only down to 96...what the heck can
> > I do ??? Those cans of octane boost are proven to not be of any measured
> > value...so..am I to detune the engine even further ??
> >  I don't want to burn out the valves and the seats are already hardened as I
> > understand according to the engine specs...I am adding a lead additive
> > (needed or not) but the fuel octane is a problem ..perhaps today's fuel is
> > able to make up for some of the lack inoctane ...
> >
> >  Regards
> >
> >  Dennis Brooks
> >
> > ________________________________
> > Faster Hotmail access now on the new MSN homepage.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
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From travellak1 at netzero.net  Fri Sep 11 01:27:57 2009
From: travellak1 at netzero.net (Linus Tremaine)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 05:27:57 GMT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
Message-ID: <20090910.222757.6966.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>

I burned about four quarts on an 1800 mile trip in my land rover. I think thats excessive, but I dont have anything to compare. It has a rebuilt head with new intake valve seals.

Linus

____________________________________________________________
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Fri Sep 11 01:41:59 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 05:41:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <20090910.222757.6966.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <1703987487.9900251252647719023.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



You probably also have a much lower gear ratio requiring more revolutions per mile than a P-4. 



Slats 
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 11 02:40:54 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 06:40:54 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>
References: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>
	<000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W3201A6977145A029012EEBB8E70@phx.gbl>


Hi Patrick

Good stuff!  That's just the sort of data I'm looking for - my unit is using about that too.  Many thanks!
 


From: phing at videotron.ca
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:36:15 -0400
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption







Hi 
 When I was but a lad working as an engineer in the UK I used to drive P4s which were passed down to the engineer?s pool after two years as chauffeur driven  director?s cars , maintained in the company garage.. These cream puffs used to do around 250 to 300 miles per pint  of Castrol ?s new fangled 20W 40 multigrade oil at 20,000 miles .
 Cheers 
 Patrick 
 


From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 2:59 PM
To: rover net
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
 
Can anyone put up some experience/stats on the **normal** rate of engine oil consumption on one of these units please?
 
Assume an engine that has new valve guides, valve guide oil seals and has a new set of piston rings installed into an original, well maintained engine 5,000 miles ago with 75,000 miles wear in the cylinder bores. [Not some hammered unit just returned from its third voyage to Mars.]
 
I know these units were oil burners even when new, but would like to get some benchmark data.
 
Thanks in advance!



Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a peek at other people's pay and perks
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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Fri Sep 11 03:27:55 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 07:27:55 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?BBC_NEWS_-_Rover_bosses?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?_took_=A342m_from_firm?=
In-Reply-To: <4AA9D0CE.2080007@comcast.net>
References: <4AA9D0CE.2080007@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <271330.62735.qm@web86010.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

This was the main story on last nights BBC evening news. The report is published today but like so many reports of this nature is 'leaked' to soften the blow! The BBC news made sure it emphasised the report confirmed none of the Phoenix Four had broken the law ............ so thats all right then !!!

On a personal level I wish Rover had gone in the 1970's leaving a legacy of fine built and produced cars rather than the tarnished almost 'joke' image it now has. You can debate the quality of the products it produced in the last 25 years of it's life until you're blue in the face but you cannot deny it's reputation is poor bordering on humiliating, very sad.

Alan Francis (partviking)




________________________________
From: Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, 11 September, 2009 5:23:42 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] BBC NEWS - Rover bosses took ?42m from firm

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/8248923.stm

The four Phoenix executives ?42m in pay and benefits after having paid BMW on ?10 for Rover.

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From phing at videotron.ca  Fri Sep 11 10:27:41 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 10:27:41 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W3201A6977145A029012EEBB8E70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>
	<000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>
	<BAY120-W3201A6977145A029012EEBB8E70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001801ca32ec$055dbb60$10193220$@ca>

Richard 

 I remember being impressed as a student ,when we toured the Rover plant ,
by the " selective assembly " of individual pistons to each carefully
measured  bore " What craftsmanship !!" I thought . Later on I realized that
the Block boring machinery was clapped out and they couldn't bore 6 holes of
the same size , every time . Equally Hepworth couldn't guarantee their
pistons were all the same size .This may explain the heavy oil consumption
of even fairly new P4 engines ?.

Cheers 

 Patrick 

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 2:41 AM
To: rover net
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption

 

Hi Patrick
Good stuff!  That's just the sort of data I'm looking for - my unit is using
about that too.  Many thanks!
 

  _____  

From: phing at videotron.ca
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:36:15 -0400
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption

Hi 

 When I was but a lad working as an engineer in the UK I used to drive P4s
which were passed down to the engineer's pool after two years as chauffeur
driven  director's cars , maintained in the company garage.. These cream
puffs used to do around 250 to 300 miles per pint  of Castrol 's new fangled
20W 40 multigrade oil at 20,000 miles .

 Cheers 

 Patrick 

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 2:59 PM
To: rover net
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption

 

Can anyone put up some experience/stats on the **normal** rate of engine oil
consumption on one of these units please?
 
Assume an engine that has new valve guides, valve guide oil seals and has a
new set of piston rings installed into an original, well maintained engine
5,000 miles ago with 75,000 miles wear in the cylinder bores. [Not some
hammered unit just returned from its third voyage to Mars.]
 
I know these units were oil burners even when new, but would like to get
some benchmark data.
 
Thanks in advance!

  _____  

Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a peek at other
<http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157639755/direct/01/>  people's pay and perks

 

  _____  

Let us find your next place for you! Need a
<http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/>  place to rent, buy or
share?

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From RoverP6 at gmx.de  Fri Sep 11 10:36:46 2009
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:36:46 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
References: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl>
	<003001ca2ea5$2cd33080$86799180$@ca>
Message-ID: <6298034302CC42EAA36A99AADC0B19DA@rw>


If you have the genuine Federal P6 3500S sales brochure, you will find 
a picture showing the place of the tyre decal.

Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info



-----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- 
Von: "Patrick Hiron" <phing at videotron.ca>
An: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'" 
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. September 2009 05:50
Betreff: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux


> Hi Lance
>
> My Federal p6B's tyre decal is under the hood on the driver's side . 
> The
> text faces forward . Send me your e mail and I will forward a 
> picture
>
> Cheers
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
> Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 8:32 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
>
>
>
> I've posted a question twice regarding placement of the 'Tyre 
> Pressure'
> decal (approximately 4" X 2") for the 3500 and 3500S and have 
> received no
> responses.  I would appreciate it if someone would just respond to 
> let me
> know they received my question.   Even an answer of "I have not idea 
> about
> the placement of the decal" would be helpful.
>
>
>
> Lance La Certe,  '70 3500S
>
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Fri Sep 11 10:56:28 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:56:28 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] =?iso-8859-1?q?R=3A__BBC_NEWS_-_Rover_?=
	=?iso-8859-1?q?bosses_took_=A342m_from_firm?=
In-Reply-To: <271330.62735.qm@web86010.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <4AA9D0CE.2080007@comcast.net>
	<271330.62735.qm@web86010.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE301555586@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>

I think the workers of the factories wolud have more than something to tell us about the good work these bosses have done.
 
best regards, gianluca.

________________________________

Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Partviking
Inviato: venerd? 11 settembre 2009 9.28
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] BBC NEWS - Rover bosses took ?42m from firm


This was the main story on last nights BBC evening news. The report is published today but like so many reports of this nature is 'leaked' to soften the blow! The BBC news made sure it emphasised the report confirmed none of the Phoenix Four had broken the law ............ so thats all right then !!!

On a personal level I wish Rover had gone in the 1970's leaving a legacy of fine built and produced cars rather than the tarnished almost 'joke' image it now has. You can debate the quality of the products it produced in the last 25 years of it's life until you're blue in the face but you cannot deny it's reputation is poor bordering on humiliating, very sad.

Alan Francis (partviking)


________________________________

From: Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, 11 September, 2009 5:23:42 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] BBC NEWS - Rover bosses took ?42m from firm

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/8248923.stm

The four Phoenix executives ?42m in pay and benefits after having paid BMW on ?10 for Rover.

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Fri Sep 11 15:28:56 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 19:28:56 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <001801ca32ec$055dbb60$10193220$@ca>
References: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>
	<000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>
	<BAY120-W3201A6977145A029012EEBB8E70@phx.gbl> 
	<001801ca32ec$055dbb60$10193220$@ca>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W38A923B787476218A91054B8E70@phx.gbl>


Hi Patrick

I would have loved to visit the Rover plant.  I started out in the motor industry at Ford and the engine and assembly plants were always a thrill to watch in action.

 

I've always assumed that the relatively high 2.6 oil consumption was attributable to its long-stroke design - something guaranteed to result in an oil burner.  I think oil technology also has something to do with it, with lighter modern oils being more suseptible to being burnt off in normal use.  Having said that, I can recall even short-stroke Ford Zodiac MkII's having the oil level checked and sometimes topped up at refueling time on a long journey. Piston engined aircraft engines [e.g Lycoming] too definitely consume oil at a steady rate.

 

Like I say though, I'm interested in getting some good benchmark data for the 2.6 oil use....

Cheers

Richard
 


From: phing at videotron.ca
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 10:27:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption







Richard 
 I remember being impressed as a student ,when we toured the Rover plant , by the ? selective assembly ? of individual pistons to each carefully measured  bore ? What craftsmanship !!? I thought . Later on I realized that the Block boring machinery was clapped out and they couldn?t bore 6 holes of the same size , every time . Equally Hepworth couldn?t guarantee their pistons were all the same size .This may explain the heavy oil consumption of even fairly new P4 engines ?.
Cheers 
 Patrick 
 


From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 2:41 AM
To: rover net
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
 
Hi Patrick
Good stuff!  That's just the sort of data I'm looking for - my unit is using about that too.  Many thanks!
 



From: phing at videotron.ca
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:36:15 -0400
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption

Hi 
 When I was but a lad working as an engineer in the UK I used to drive P4s which were passed down to the engineer?s pool after two years as chauffeur driven  director?s cars , maintained in the company garage.. These cream puffs used to do around 250 to 300 miles per pint  of Castrol ?s new fangled 20W 40 multigrade oil at 20,000 miles .
 Cheers 
 Patrick 
 


From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 2:59 PM
To: rover net
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
 
Can anyone put up some experience/stats on the **normal** rate of engine oil consumption on one of these units please?
 
Assume an engine that has new valve guides, valve guide oil seals and has a new set of piston rings installed into an original, well maintained engine 5,000 miles ago with 75,000 miles wear in the cylinder bores. [Not some hammered unit just returned from its third voyage to Mars.]
 
I know these units were oil burners even when new, but would like to get some benchmark data.
 
Thanks in advance!



Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a peek at other people's pay and perks
 



Let us find your next place for you! Need a place to rent, buy or share?
_________________________________________________________________
Need a place to rent, buy or share? Let us find your next place for you! 
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/
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From vern at inkspotco.com  Fri Sep 11 15:58:57 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 12:58:57 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W38A923B787476218A91054B8E70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>
	<000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>
	<BAY120-W3201A6977145A029012EEBB8E70@phx.gbl>
	<001801ca32ec$055dbb60$10193220$@ca>
	<BAY120-W38A923B787476218A91054B8E70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D430DF55-8126-4D65-BF2C-8CEFC5F58700@inkspotco.com>

Air cooled aircraft engines are always oil consumers, because with the  
engine operating temperatures so much higher they are built with  
rather generous clearances compared to automotive practice.

Yours
Vern
On 2009-09-11, at 12:28 PM, Richard Sharpe wrote:

> Hi Patrick
> I would have loved to visit the Rover plant.  I started out in the  
> motor industry at Ford and the engine and assembly plants were  
> always a thrill to watch in action.
>
> I've always assumed that the relatively high 2.6 oil consumption was  
> attributable to its long-stroke design - something guaranteed to  
> result in an oil burner.  I think oil technology also has something  
> to do with it, with lighter modern oils being more suseptible to  
> being burnt off in normal use.  Having said that, I can recall even  
> short-stroke Ford Zodiac MkII's having the oil level checked and  
> sometimes topped up at refueling time on a long journey. Piston  
> engined aircraft engines [e.g Lycoming] too definitely consume oil  
> at a steady rate.
>
> Like I say though, I'm interested in getting some good benchmark  
> data for the 2.6 oil use....
> Cheers
> Richard
>
> From: phing at videotron.ca
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 10:27:41 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
>
> Richard
>  I remember being impressed as a student ,when we toured the Rover  
> plant , by the ? selective assembly ? of individual pistons to each  
> carefully measured  bore ? What craftsmanship !!? I thought . Later  
> on I realized that the Block boring machinery was clapped out and  
> they couldn?t bore 6 holes of the same size , every time . Equally  
> Hepworth couldn?t guarantee their pistons were all the same  
> size .This may explain the heavy oil consumption of even fairly new  
> P4 engines ?.
> Cheers
>  Patrick
>
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet- 
> bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
> Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 2:41 AM
> To: rover net
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
>
> Hi Patrick
> Good stuff!  That's just the sort of data I'm looking for - my unit  
> is using about that too.  Many thanks!
>
> From: phing at videotron.ca
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:36:15 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
>
> Hi
>  When I was but a lad working as an engineer in the UK I used to  
> drive P4s which were passed down to the engineer?s pool after two  
> years as chauffeur driven  director?s cars , maintained in the  
> company garage.. These cream puffs used to do around 250 to 300  
> miles per pint  of Castrol ?s new fangled 20W 40 multigrade oil at  
> 20,000 miles .
>  Cheers
>  Patrick
>
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet- 
> bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Richard Sharpe
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 2:59 PM
> To: rover net
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
>
> Can anyone put up some experience/stats on the **normal** rate of  
> engine oil consumption on one of these units please?
>
> Assume an engine that has new valve guides, valve guide oil seals  
> and has a new set of piston rings installed into an original, well  
> maintained engine 5,000 miles ago with 75,000 miles wear in the  
> cylinder bores. [Not some hammered unit just returned from its third  
> voyage to Mars.]
>
> I know these units were oil burners even when new, but would like to  
> get some benchmark data.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Check out The Great Australian Pay Check Take a peek at other  
> people's pay and perks
>
> Let us find your next place for you! Need a place to rent, buy or  
> share?
>
> Let us find your next place for you! Need a place to rent, buy or  
> share? _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no- 
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From magnet at roverclub.org  Fri Sep 11 18:26:50 2009
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 18:26:50 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - P4 2.6 oil consumption]
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W38A923B787476218A91054B8E70@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY120-W411B6181BB1255E3BF8726B8E80@phx.gbl>	<000001ca3291$047b32f0$0d7198d0$@ca>	<BAY120-W3201A6977145A029012EEBB8E70@phx.gbl>
	<001801ca32ec$055dbb60$10193220$@ca>
	<BAY120-W38A923B787476218A91054B8E70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP440312092FFD83AA02DDD791E70@phx.gbl>

I get about 500 - 600 miles per (U.S.) quart of 20W50 in my 1959 "90" 
with ~ 150,000 miles on the original bores/pistons/rings.  This drops to 
about 400 mpq on trips with sustained driving at motorway speeds.  Mind, 
I think some of it is going down the inlet valve guides...

Cheers,

 -- Bill Daddis


Richard Sharpe wrote:
> Hi Patrick
> I would have loved to visit the Rover plant.  I started out in the 
> motor industry at Ford and the engine and assembly plants were always 
> a thrill to watch in action.
>  
> I've always assumed that the relatively high 2.6 oil consumption was 
> attributable to its long-stroke design - something guaranteed to 
> result in an oil burner.  I think oil technology also has something to 
> do with it, with lighter modern oils being more suseptible to being 
> burnt off in normal use.  Having said that, I can recall even 
> short-stroke Ford Zodiac MkII's having the oil level checked and 
> sometimes topped up at refueling time on a long journey. Piston 
> engined aircraft engines [e.g Lycoming] too definitely consume oil at 
> a steady rate.
>  
> Like I say though, I'm interested in getting some good benchmark data 
> for the 2.6 oil use....
> Cheers
> Richard



From esailer at snet.net  Fri Sep 11 18:43:53 2009
From: esailer at snet.net (EDWARD SAILER)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 15:43:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - P4 2.6 oil consumption]
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP440312092FFD83AA02DDD791E70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <635105.7713.qm@web80505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm getting about the same as Bill in my 1959 "100" but most (if not all) of it is on my garage floor or other parking spaces :-)
?
Ted Sailer

--- On Fri, 9/11/09, Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org> wrote:


From: Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - P4 2.6 oil consumption]
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Friday, September 11, 2009, 6:26 PM


I get about 500 - 600 miles per (U.S.) quart of 20W50 in my 1959 "90" with ~ 150,000 miles on the original bores/pistons/rings.? This drops to about 400 mpq on trips with sustained driving at motorway speeds.? Mind, I think some of it is going down the inlet valve guides...

Cheers,

-- Bill Daddis


Richard Sharpe wrote:
> Hi Patrick
> I would have loved to visit the Rover plant.? I started out in the motor industry at Ford and the engine and assembly plants were always a thrill to watch in action.
>? I've always assumed that the relatively high 2.6 oil consumption was attributable to its long-stroke design - something guaranteed to result in an oil burner.? I think oil technology also has something to do with it, with lighter modern oils being more suseptible to being burnt off in normal use.? Having said that, I can recall even short-stroke Ford Zodiac MkII's having the oil level checked and sometimes topped up at refueling time on a long journey. Piston engined aircraft engines [e.g Lycoming] too definitely consume oil at a steady rate.
>? Like I say though, I'm interested in getting some good benchmark data for the 2.6 oil use....
> Cheers
> Richard


_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From esailer at snet.net  Fri Sep 11 18:45:21 2009
From: esailer at snet.net (EDWARD SAILER)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 15:45:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - P4 2.6 oil consumption]
In-Reply-To: <635105.7713.qm@web80505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <953486.43987.qm@web80502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I mean my?1961 "100"

--- On Fri, 9/11/09, EDWARD SAILER <esailer at snet.net> wrote:


From: EDWARD SAILER <esailer at snet.net>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - P4 2.6 oil consumption]
To: magnet at roverclub.org, "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Friday, September 11, 2009, 6:43 PM







I'm getting about the same as Bill in my 1959 "100" but most (if not all) of it is on my garage floor or other parking spaces :-)
?
Ted Sailer

--- On Fri, 9/11/09, Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org> wrote:


From: Magnet <magnet at roverclub.org>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - P4 2.6 oil consumption]
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Friday, September 11, 2009, 6:26 PM


I get about 500 - 600 miles per (U.S.) quart of 20W50 in my 1959 "90" with ~ 150,000 miles on the original bores/pistons/rings.? This drops to about 400 mpq on trips with sustained driving at motorway speeds.? Mind, I think some of it is going down the inlet valve guides...

Cheers,

-- Bill Daddis


Richard Sharpe wrote:
> Hi Patrick
> I would have loved to visit the Rover plant.? I started out in the motor industry at Ford and the engine and assembly plants were always a thrill to watch in action.
>? I've always assumed that the relatively high 2.6 oil consumption was attributable to its long-stroke design - something guaranteed to result in an oil burner.? I think oil technology also has something to do with it, with lighter modern oils being more suseptible to being burnt off in normal use.? Having said that, I can recall even short-stroke Ford Zodiac MkII's having the oil level checked and sometimes topped up at refueling time on a long journey. Piston engined aircraft engines [e.g Lycoming] too definitely consume oil at a steady rate.
>? Like I say though, I'm interested in getting some good benchmark data for the 2.6 oil use....
> Cheers
> Richard


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

-----Inline Attachment Follows-----


_______________________________________________
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From RoverP6 at gmx.de  Sat Sep 12 14:14:04 2009
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:14:04 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
References: <COL111-DS228774C25E842D30D1325B83EC0@phx.gbl><003001ca2ea5$2cd33080$86799180$@ca>
	<6298034302CC42EAA36A99AADC0B19DA@rw>
Message-ID: <F72FA1CE6D4B4F21BC594798ED661D46@rw>



Scan of the relevant brochure page

http://www.roverp6.info/NADA_brochure.htm

Rudiger



-----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- 
Von: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
An: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." 
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Gesendet: Freitag, 11. September 2009 16:36
Betreff: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux



If you have the genuine Federal P6 3500S sales brochure, you will find
a picture showing the place of the tyre decal.

Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info



-----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- 
Von: "Patrick Hiron" <phing at videotron.ca>
An: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Gesendet: Sonntag, 6. September 2009 05:50
Betreff: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux


> Hi Lance
>
> My Federal p6B's tyre decal is under the hood on the driver's side . 
> The
> text faces forward . Send me your e mail and I will forward a 
> picture
>
> Cheers
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
> Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 8:32 PM
> To: Rovernet
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Decals redux
>
>
>
> I've posted a question twice regarding placement of the 'Tyre 
> Pressure'
> decal (approximately 4" X 2") for the 3500 and 3500S and have 
> received no
> responses.  I would appreciate it if someone would just respond to 
> let me
> know they received my question.   Even an answer of "I have not idea 
> about
> the placement of the decal" would be helpful.
>
>
>
> Lance La Certe,  '70 3500S
>
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or 
no-mail:
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Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From veetwinrider at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 12 20:33:57 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2009 17:33:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Selling My Rover
Message-ID: <659536.32705.qm@web180508.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hi folks, have decided that I will be selling the Rover. For those that are interested, please send me a private email for details. I still want to be on the Rover list, as I've come to enjoy this forum adn the people in it. I've just run out of interest in my Rover. Thanks for all the good times.
?
Roland
?
1960 Rover 3L MK 1
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Sat Sep 12 23:41:09 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 13:41:09 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Selling My Rover
In-Reply-To: <659536.32705.qm@web180508.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <659536.32705.qm@web180508.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D9D41A3C88BB40C0A7DAB17596D7D315@Vista>

GASP!
Send the white-jacket men around.
Like, you could fit an overdrive, a worthwhile project.
Or add the diode to the fuel pump so it lasts for 30 years.
Or make it unleaded.
Or inject it, or turbo it (now that would be easy on an F head).

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: roland 
  To: rovernet 
  Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 10:33 AM
  Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Selling My Rover


        Hi folks, have decided that I will be selling the Rover. For those that are interested, please send me a private email for details. I still want to be on the Rover list, as I've come to enjoy this forum adn the people in it. I've just run out of interest in my Rover. Thanks for all the good times.

        Roland

        1960 Rover 3L MK 1 



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Rovernet mailing list
  Rovernet at rovernet.ca
  Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
  http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
  Here is the old Rovernet archives:
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From veetwinrider at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 13 07:43:14 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 04:43:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Selling My Rover
Message-ID: <714331.66323.qm@web180515.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I know, I'll probably regret it some day. I hope it goes to a good home, where someone will actually do something with it. It's a pretty good runner and I have the title on a non op status as of March '09. So someone could always pay the reg, get some insurance, throw the front headlamps on and drive it away. :-) I replaced the fuel pump with a new SU non polarity sensitive electronic unit. It works great and still retains the ticking! And you can change from the current positive earth if you'd like. I kept it since the original radio still works. This weekend I'll start gathering all the parts together.

roland

--- On Sat, 9/12/09, Netspace <vmitps at netspace.net.au> wrote


GASP!
Send the white-jacket men around.
Like, you could fit an overdrive, a worthwhile project.
Or add the diode to the fuel pump so it lasts for 30 years.
Or make it unleaded.
Or inject it, or turbo it (now that would be easy on an F head).
?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: roland 
To: rovernet 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 10:33 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Selling My Rover






Hi folks, have decided that I will be selling the Rover. For those that are interested, please send me a private email for details. I still want to be on the Rover list, as I've come to enjoy this forum adn the people in it. I've just run out of interest in my Rover. Thanks for all the good times.
?
Roland
?
1960 Rover 3L MK 1



_______________________________________________




From cfreeberg at juno.com  Sun Sep 13 21:10:12 2009
From: cfreeberg at juno.com (cfreeberg)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:10:12 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Selling My Rover
Message-ID: <20090913.184414.14337.225808@mailpop08.vgs.untd.com>

Oh, no!  The end of an era?  We marginal Rovernetters always enjoyed,
learned from your repartee. I hope you find a good home for your Rover.

On Sat, 12 Sep 2009 17:33:57 -0700 (PDT) roland <veetwinrider at yahoo.com>
writes:
Hi folks, have decided that I will be selling the Rover. For those that
are interested, please send me a private email for details. I still want
to be on the Rover list, as I've come to enjoy this forum adn the people
in it. I've just run out of interest in my Rover. Thanks for all the good
times.

Roland

1960 Rover 3L MK 1
____________________________________________________________
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Sun Sep 13 21:47:49 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:47:49 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck Solid
Message-ID: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>



Hi All
 
After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid, and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1. where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile fragments....................
 
Thanks
Adrian
3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and "projectus minimus neverendus"
_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1

From rovercar at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 00:00:58 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 00:00:58 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AADBFFA.7040103@comcast.net>

Adrian,

I have seen that some of the DIY tank coating kits actually include a 
length of steel chain. You feed the chain into the tank and agitate the 
tank so that the chain knocks the rust loose. At that point, I would use 
a shop vac to remove as much reside as I could and then rinse it out 
with something that will evaporate or dry without causing more rust. 
There are a number of products that will neutralize the remaining rust 
and leave a zinc phosphate coating. I believe this solution may actually 
be 100% muriatic acid. This stuff works well. This is not a final 
coating, and you still have to put some sort of goop in there and roll 
the tank around to coat the inside.

You should look at these links and then shop around:

http://www.eastwood.com/
http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/2448/s/ew-fast-etch-16-fluid-oz/category/26/
http://search.eastwood.com/search?asug=&w=gas+tank&x=0&y=0&p=Q&ts=custom

Glen



 McDonald wrote:
> Hi All
>  
> After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid, and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1. where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile fragments....................
>  
> Thanks
> Adrian
> 3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and "projectus minimus neverendus"
> _________________________________________________________________
> Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
> http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   



From vern at inkspotco.com  Mon Sep 14 00:20:18 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 21:20:18 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
In-Reply-To: <4AADBFFA.7040103@comcast.net>
References: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
	<4AADBFFA.7040103@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FB873416-8C69-4EE5-A004-6B98FF101DE8@inkspotco.com>

The funny ring and seal are still used on Landrovers, check you dealer.

The phosphating solution will be phosphoric acid and either zinc oxide  
or manganese oxide (actually optional if you are just killing the rust  
and will be recoating right away with a fuel sealer). personally, I'd  
shop around for a replacement tank before leaping into a repair, with  
that much rust it is possible the tank is actually perforated and the  
rust is just plugging the holes.

Yours
Vern

On 2009-09-13, at 9:00 PM, Glen Wilson wrote:

> Adrian,
>
> I have seen that some of the DIY tank coating kits actually include  
> a length of steel chain. You feed the chain into the tank and  
> agitate the tank so that the chain knocks the rust loose. At that  
> point, I would use a shop vac to remove as much reside as I could  
> and then rinse it out with something that will evaporate or dry  
> without causing more rust. There are a number of products that will  
> neutralize the remaining rust and leave a zinc phosphate coating. I  
> believe this solution may actually be 100% muriatic acid. This stuff  
> works well. This is not a final coating, and you still have to put  
> some sort of goop in there and roll the tank around to coat the  
> inside.
>
> You should look at these links and then shop around:
>
> http://www.eastwood.com/
> http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/2448/s/ew-fast-etch-16-fluid-oz/category/26/
> http://search.eastwood.com/search?asug=&w=gas+tank&x=0&y=0&p=Q&ts=custom
>
> Glen
>
>
>
> McDonald wrote:
>> Hi All
>> After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more  
>> difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine  
>> why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what  
>> is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid,  
>> and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1.  
>> where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little  
>> locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how  
>> to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile  
>> fragments....................
>> Thanks
>> Adrian
>> 3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and  
>> "projectus minimus neverendus"
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
>> http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or  
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no- 
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From kkinard at att.net  Mon Sep 14 00:28:14 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 23:28:14 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AADC65E.7060409@att.net>

Hi Adrian,
Maybe Ruth or Dermot has a sender.  As far as I know, I don't.

As for the tank, remove it, dry the inside thoroughly, add several 
pounds of nuts and bolts and shake well.  If you have some means to 
mount it on a spit so that you can turn it over and over as you would a 
rock polisher, that would be ideal.  Then empty the nuts and bolts and 
slosh the inside of the tank with Bill Hirsch Gas tank etch and finally 
with his gas tank sealer, being sure to coat all inside surfaces.  I'm 
sure Eastwood sells some similar products but I've never used theirs.

Some radiator shops can "boil out" a tank but it will start to rust 
again immediately unless treated and the shops that do the cleaning 
_and_ sealing are few and expensive.  I think I paid nearly US$300 for 
the last tank I had done professionally in Houston.  It came back with a 
nifty brass medallion attached which proclaimed it to have a "lifetime 
warranty".  Too bad I didn't have the whole car coated with that stuff.

I did manage to locate a new tank for a TC one time.  It works in a P6B, 
it's just smaller.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Adrian McDonald wrote
> Hi All
>  
> After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid, and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1. where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile fragments....................
>  
> Thanks
> Adrian
> 3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and "projectus minimus neverendus"
> _________________________________________________________________
> Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
> http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   



From slatskars at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 02:49:47 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 06:49:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
 Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2099052942.861621252910987409.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Moss sells both an etcher and a sealer. You might check them out. 



Slats 
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 14 11:07:08 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:07:08 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
Message-ID: <COL114-W136E69696C1B3838B5F9EBDEE40@phx.gbl>


IMy 3500S is (at best ) set up properly in all aspects except the fuel mixture. I can't find anyplace in the workshop manual where it actually gives a starting point for setting the mixture properly...I know what to do to fine tune the mix but right now the car will only start and then quit... Does anybody have a good starting point to set the mixture well enough to get the car running and then I can fine tune. ??
_________________________________________________________________
New: Messenger sign-in on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677403
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From britcarnut at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 14 12:23:58 2009
From: britcarnut at yahoo.com (Geoff Kirkpatrick)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 09:23:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel tank cleaning
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1252944010.30694.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <908537.91520.qm@web36207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I had the tank on one of my P4's cleaned by a radiator shop six years ago for about $100 as I recall.  It wasn't particularly rusty, I just did it as a precaution because the car hadn't run for at least twenty years.  I did not have any sealing done.  It seems to be fine without it.

Geoff

"This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be of no possible service to him."
- William Lyon Phelps

Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA


> 
> Some radiator shops can "boil out" a tank but it will start
> to rust 
> again immediately unless treated and the shops that do the
> cleaning 
> _and_ sealing are few and expensive.? I think I paid
> nearly US$300 for 
> the last tank I had done professionally in Houston.?
> It came back with a 
> nifty brass medallion attached which proclaimed it to have
> a "lifetime 
> warranty".? Too bad I didn't have the whole car coated
> with that stuff.
> 



      


From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 14 13:09:17 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:09:17 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fuel tank senders.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1252944010.30694.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.5.1252944010.30694.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W371326ADBF9C80E7EBBEAF8EE40@phx.gbl>




> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 18:47:49 -0700
> From: Adrian McDonald <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
> 	Solid
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All
>  
> After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid, and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1. where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile fragments....................
>  
> Thanks
> Adrian
> 3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and "projectus minimus neverendus"
> _________________________________________________________________
> Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
>**************************
http://www.tristarrradiator.com/Services%20Page/Services.html

These people claim to recondition fuel senders, or make them from scratch, I have not used them though.

For my Rover 2000 fuel tank I took it out and went to a radiator guy to clean it out and coat it. I took it to Radiator World in Penn Yan, NY. Ron did it, and he did a good job. He charged about 250 dollars. I had to fix up my fuel sender at the same time. I freed it up with penetrating oil, and soldered it back together, where the rod which rises up attaches to the resistance wire. I did use a split type rivet and some solder and that has worked suprisingly well.Take the metal cover off which is over the resistance wire is and have a look inside and see if you can clean it up and make sure that everything is together inside. You may need to use a couple of cable ties to hold the cover back on afterwards. One of the tabs broke when I took the cover off. J R Wadhams have the tank sender fixing ring, and the sealing ring. You can buy fuel tank floats from Ray Weekley, 
http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/partslist/result.php?category=6
I do admit that I am suprised that my sender repair job has worked. It has been good for over a year now.

James.


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 13:48:44 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 17:48:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W136E69696C1B3838B5F9EBDEE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <560351779.1036351252950524902.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Dennis, 



I am assuming that you have HD type carbureters. If so, turn the adjusting screw until the jet is flush with the bridge of the carbureter, then turn the jet adjusting screw down 2 1/2 turns. Then restart the engine and adjust the slow running valve to give the desired idling speed. Turn the jet adjusting screw to give the fastest idling speed with even running. Readjust the slow running valve to the correct idling speed. 



Hope this helps, 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 8:07:08 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs 

IMy 3500S is (at best ) set up properly in all aspects except the fuel mixture. I can't find anyplace in the workshop manual where it actually gives a starting point for setting the mixture properly...I know what to do to fine tune the mix but right now the car will only start and then quit... Does anybody have a good starting point to set the mixture well enough to get the car running and then I can fine tune. ?? 





Less clicking: Hotmail access on the new MSN homepage. 
_______________________________________________ Rovernet mailing list Rovernet at rovernet.ca Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail: http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca Here is the old Rovernet archives: http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 14 15:05:40 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 16:05:40 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <560351779.1036351252950524902.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <COL114-W136E69696C1B3838B5F9EBDEE40@phx.gbl>
	<560351779.1036351252950524902.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W61A7FBAE5C678065FEDE6CDEE40@phx.gbl>



 I will look and confirm but I think they are called H6 ..and this car does not have a high speed idle adjustment..but yes it has the low speed one ..I am not sure what you refer to as being the "bridge" ...I will look in my book to see if that term can help me locate where you are referencing.

 Everything helps :) 

 

 Thanks for the advice ...I am off to see if I can get it right ...


Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 17:48:44 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs





Dennis,

 

I am assuming that you have HD type carbureters. If so, turn the adjusting screw until the jet is flush with the bridge of the carbureter, then turn the jet adjusting screw down 2 1/2 turns. Then restart the engine and adjust the slow running valve to give the desired idling speed. Turn the jet adjusting screw to give the fastest idling speed with even running. Readjust the slow running valve to the correct idling speed.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 8:07:08 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs



IMy 3500S is (at best ) set up properly in all aspects except the fuel mixture. I can't find anyplace in the workshop manual where it actually gives a starting point for setting the mixture properly...I know what to do to fine tune the mix but right now the car will only start and then quit... Does anybody have a good starting point to set the mixture well enough to get the car running and then I can fine tune. ??







Less clicking: Hotmail access on the new MSN homepage. 
_______________________________________________ Rovernet mailing list Rovernet at rovernet.ca Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail: http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca Here is the old Rovernet archives: http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 16:40:09 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:40:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W61A7FBAE5C678065FEDE6CDEE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <874506586.1126531252960809991.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Dennis, 



The bridge is the portion of the carb that the jet comes up through. You want to bring the top of the jet level with that surface to start your setting. Looking into the throat of the carb, you will see an angle portion and then a flat section followed by another angled portion further in. These three sections comprise the "bridge". You may have to remove the suction chamber (dome) and piston in order to see properly. I would doubt that you have H-6 carbs. The "H" types are the very old ones. I would guess either HS or HD. You do want to make certain what type you have as they do adjust differently. There are four different types of SU's. The H, HS, HD and HIF. I have at least one car with each of the four types, lucky me! 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 12:05:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs 


?I will look and confirm but I think they are called H6 ..and this car does not have a high speed idle adjustment..but yes it has the low speed one ..I am not sure what you refer to as being the "bridge" ...I will look in my book to see if that term can help me locate where you are referencing. 
?Everything helps :) 
? 
?Thanks for the advice ...I am off to see if I can get it right ... 


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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 14 17:53:37 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 18:53:37 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <874506586.1126531252960809991.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <COL114-W61A7FBAE5C678065FEDE6CDEE40@phx.gbl>
	<874506586.1126531252960809991.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W14FABEC5951A12301F8CD9DEE40@phx.gbl>



 I just discovered that my fuel filter was almost completly blocked with fine particles...probally due to old gas I would presume. I am going to confirm the carb now...and look into the throat to confirm what you described as well.


Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:40:09 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs





Dennis,

 

The bridge is the portion of the carb that the jet comes up through. You want to bring the top of the jet level with that surface to start your setting. Looking into the throat of the carb, you will see an angle portion and then a flat section followed by another angled portion further in. These three sections comprise the "bridge". You may have to remove the suction chamber (dome) and piston in order to see properly. I would doubt that you have H-6 carbs. The "H" types are the very old ones. I would guess either HS or HD. You do want to make certain what type you have as they do adjust differently. There are four different types of SU's. The H, HS, HD and HIF. I have at least one car with each of the four types, lucky me!

 

Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 12:05:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs




 I will look and confirm but I think they are called H6 ..and this car does not have a high speed idle adjustment..but yes it has the low speed one ..I am not sure what you refer to as being the "bridge" ...I will look in my book to see if that term can help me locate where you are referencing.
 Everything helps :) 
 
 Thanks for the advice ...I am off to see if I can get it right ...




_________________________________________________________________
New! Open Messenger faster on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677405
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 14 18:08:21 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 19:08:21 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <874506586.1126531252960809991.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <COL114-W61A7FBAE5C678065FEDE6CDEE40@phx.gbl>
	<874506586.1126531252960809991.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W2446D42651FD93994030E0DEE40@phx.gbl>



 I checked to see what I have...HS-6..and I looked for that bridge and saw nothing to resemble your description ...perhaps this carb is different in that way VS the HD ??


Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:40:09 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs





Dennis,

 

The bridge is the portion of the carb that the jet comes up through. You want to bring the top of the jet level with that surface to start your setting. Looking into the throat of the carb, you will see an angle portion and then a flat section followed by another angled portion further in. These three sections comprise the "bridge". You may have to remove the suction chamber (dome) and piston in order to see properly. I would doubt that you have H-6 carbs. The "H" types are the very old ones. I would guess either HS or HD. You do want to make certain what type you have as they do adjust differently. There are four different types of SU's. The H, HS, HD and HIF. I have at least one car with each of the four types, lucky me!

 

Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 12:05:40 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs




 I will look and confirm but I think they are called H6 ..and this car does not have a high speed idle adjustment..but yes it has the low speed one ..I am not sure what you refer to as being the "bridge" ...I will look in my book to see if that term can help me locate where you are referencing.
 Everything helps :) 
 
 Thanks for the advice ...I am off to see if I can get it right ...




_________________________________________________________________
New! Get to Messenger faster: Sign-in here now!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677407
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 22:49:15 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 02:49:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W2446D42651FD93994030E0DEE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <499118987.1291941252982955102.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Dennis, 



All four types of SU's have the bridge in common. If you remove the vacuum chamber (dome)?and piston, you will see the top of the jet in the center. The thing that the jet comes up through is the bridge. With an HS type you want to bring the top of the ?jet up to flush with the bridge and then lower it two full turns of the mixture adjusting nut to start. Set the idle speed and then adjust the mixture until the fastest speed is indicated. From there use the manufacturers instructions. I use the lifting pin on the side and adjust the mixture until the engine momentarily increases and then falls off for the correct setting. If it falls of instantly the mixture is too lean, if it keeps increasing, too rich. Moving the jet down enrichens, moving it up leans the mixture. It is easy to remember if you relate it to the choke which pulles the jet down. 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 3:08:21 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs 


?I checked to see what I have...HS-6..and I looked for that bridge and saw nothing to resemble your description ...perhaps this carb is different in that way VS the HD ?? 


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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 15 02:31:08 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 06:31:08 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <499118987.1291941252982955102.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <COL114-W2446D42651FD93994030E0DEE40@phx.gbl>
	<499118987.1291941252982955102.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W2534EC9B925DE5F521AFA3B8E30@phx.gbl>


YouTube has an excellent video made by John Twist demonstrating the SU tuning process.  [One of John's UT videos on checking the piston drop rates on a twin SU setup helped me fix a 6 year driveability problem - yep the pistons on my 2000TC had been swopped and it was running like rubbish until JT's vid sorted it.]  Key words: John Twist, University Motors
 


Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 02:49:15 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs





Dennis,

 

All four types of SU's have the bridge in common. If you remove the vacuum chamber (dome) and piston, you will see the top of the jet in the center. The thing that the jet comes up through is the bridge. With an HS type you want to bring the top of the  jet up to flush with the bridge and then lower it two full turns of the mixture adjusting nut to start. Set the idle speed and then adjust the mixture until the fastest speed is indicated. From there use the manufacturers instructions. I use the lifting pin on the side and adjust the mixture until the engine momentarily increases and then falls off for the correct setting. If it falls of instantly the mixture is too lean, if it keeps increasing, too rich. Moving the jet down enrichens, moving it up leans the mixture. It is easy to remember if you relate it to the choke which pulles the jet down.

 

Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 3:08:21 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs




 I checked to see what I have...HS-6..and I looked for that bridge and saw nothing to resemble your description ...perhaps this carb is different in that way VS the HD ??




_________________________________________________________________
View photos of singles in your area Click Here
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/150855801/direct/01/
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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com  Tue Sep 15 05:02:11 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 05:02:11 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P4 2.6 oil consumption
Message-ID: <d60.57d07ecd.37e0b213@aol.com>



    Hi All,
             Didn't all these gadgets (including the Lycoming) have iron 
oil control rings ?

  AND, pretty poor drainage off the bottom groove..  What didn't scrape off 
to the sump, went out the exhaust valvolo.

  So, proper honing and three piece oil control fixes the oil consumtion ? 
Also slows down gudgeon and skirt wear.

    Just a thought.

       Regards,
                     MWJ.
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 15 05:47:10 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 06:47:10 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W2534EC9B925DE5F521AFA3B8E30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W2446D42651FD93994030E0DEE40@phx.gbl>
	<499118987.1291941252982955102.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY120-W2534EC9B925DE5F521AFA3B8E30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL114-W181C71E2F80879633C84D4DEE30@phx.gbl>



 Thanks for the link !! Great videos and it does give me a greater understanding of what I am being told here...I happen to have several spare carbs so I plan to look at one for expetiementing and then take at my pair on the Rover...I also have several new parts that I may as well include in my su's while I am at it. I was told recently by a local mechanic who should be (says he is) familiar with the su carbs ...he lifted my pistons and when they dropped suddenly upon his release they fell rather quickly and made an audible clunk (like the centered video) however he said hould slowly drop with no clunk audible ....an absolute oposite to what I am gathering from the "twist" video.  To me the twist video makes sense that the lack of the clunk would indicate drag...anybody care to elaborate on this ?? 

 BTW...he did set the carb at 12 flats back for initial starting purposes...I think that confirms the 2/1-2 turns that I was given here.. (not that I doubted it :) ..)

 

 Thanks to all for the great help ...it's been a LONG time since I have had my full attention on a SU carb...your help is greatly appreciated !!


From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 06:31:08 +0000
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs



YouTube has an excellent video made by John Twist demonstrating the SU tuning process.  [One of John's UT videos on checking the piston drop rates on a twin SU setup helped me fix a 6 year driveability problem - yep the pistons on my 2000TC had been swopped and it was running like rubbish until JT's vid sorted it.]  Key words: John Twist, University Motors
 


Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 02:49:15 +0000
From: slatskars at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs




Dennis,
 
All four types of SU's have the bridge in common. If you remove the vacuum chamber (dome) and piston, you will see the top of the jet in the center. The thing that the jet comes up through is the bridge. With an HS type you want to bring the top of the  jet up to flush with the bridge and then lower it two full turns of the mixture adjusting nut to start. Set the idle speed and then adjust the mixture until the fastest speed is indicated. From there use the manufacturers instructions. I use the lifting pin on the side and adjust the mixture until the engine momentarily increases and then falls off for the correct setting. If it falls of instantly the mixture is too lean, if it keeps increasing, too rich. Moving the jet down enrichens, moving it up leans the mixture. It is easy to remember if you relate it to the choke which pulles the jet down.
 
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 3:08:21 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs




 I checked to see what I have...HS-6..and I looked for that bridge and saw nothing to resemble your description ...perhaps this carb is different in that way VS the HD ??





Click Here View photos of singles in your area
_________________________________________________________________
New: Messenger sign-in on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677403
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From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Tue Sep 15 06:05:19 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:05:19 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Setting su carbs
Message-ID: <685950.56069.qm@web86009.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I agree Dennis there should be an audible noise when the base of the piston hits the bridge. The whole point of the piston and oil in the damper is to ensure it drops slowly and steadily so any sluggishness is correct. By removing the plunger from the oil resevoir on the top they should drop more quickly. This may help to determine if the sluggishness is as a result of damping or as a result of mis-alignment/corrosion/gunge etc.

Alan Francis (partviking)
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Tue Sep 15 12:55:48 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 16:55:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs
In-Reply-To: <1372560035.1484261253033021330.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <774850486.1491471253033748682.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Dennis, 



First, with the HS type it was 2 full turns (12 flats/6sided). Second, there is a really great book titled "SU Workshop Manual from Burlen Fuel Systems LTD. They bought up the SU assets several years ago. It really is a great book, that covers all four types of SU's, plus the AED and fuel pumps. I have a 1995 edition. The book is slightly larger than the standard 8 1/2" by 11". It is probably 8" by 12" and has an Orange and White cover with some breakaway drawings of various SU devices. I mention this bood because it is quite comprehensive and covers a lot of information, but not in an overwhelming fashion. It even describes the procedure for testing the piston chamber fit to determine if the pistons have been swapped as in a previous post on this subject. Basically you fit the piston into the chamber after plugging the two transfer holes with cork or tape and without the spring, install a flat washer to the bottom of the chamber as a stop, then turn the unit rightside up and time the duration of the fall. It should be in the 5 to 7 second range. The book is 84 pages and is not terribly expensive. Ebay, Amazon.com, MOSS Motors should all have them. I just looked at an MGB MOSS catalog, they list it at $26.95. 



The early SU's had a brass section at the base of the piston. Later versions used a spring as a substitute for this weight. (Value Engineering - or lets reduce the cost). The piston should fall faily quickly in its normal position with the springs installed. As noted previously 5 -7 seconds with out the spring and with the air ports plugged. These carb really are quite simple once you understand waht is going on. They are so simple that some folks even installed them on Harley-Davidson bikes. They are aslo quite stable once set up properly, generally requiring only that you keep the oil topped off. The larges problem area on an SU, particularly H and HS types is air leakage around the throttle shafts. The HD and HIF's have seals there. Rebushing them is the best fix. 



Slats 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dennis Brooks" <goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com> 
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 2:47:10 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] setting su carbs 


?Thanks for the link !! Great videos and it does give me a greater understanding of what I am being told here...I happen to have several spare carbs so I plan to look at one for expetiementing and then take at my pair on the Rover...I also have several new parts that I may as well include in my su's while I am at it. I was told recently by a local mechanic who should be (says he is) familiar with the su carbs ...he lifted my pistons and when they dropped suddenly upon his release they fell rather quickly and made an audible clunk (like the centered video) however he said hould slowly drop with no clunk audible ....an absolute oposite to what I am gathering from the "twist" video.? To me the twist video makes sense that the lack of the clunk would indicate drag...anybody care to elaborate on this ?? 
?BTW...he did set the carb at 12 flats back for initial starting purposes...I think that confirms the 2/1-2 turns that I was given here.. (not that I doubted it :) ..) 
? 
?Thanks to all for the great help ...it's been a LONG time since I have had my full attention on a SU carb...your help is greatly appreciated !! 
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From kkinard at att.net  Tue Sep 15 19:23:12 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 18:23:12 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Glen Wilson
Message-ID: <4AB021E0.7060805@att.net>

Glen,
Please contact me off list.

Roverly,
Kent K.


From roverman2 at verizon.net  Tue Sep 15 19:50:39 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 19:50:39 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6C99B160-522F-4279-A6F5-BA08DD60BB45@verizon.net>

Hi Adrian,

I may have a fuel sending unit for a 3500S in stock. I'll have to  
check when I get back to New York in a couple of weeks. Please email  
me then and I'll check.

Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics
On Sep 13, 2009, at 9:47 PM, Adrian McDonald wrote:

>
>
> Hi All
>
> After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more  
> difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine  
> why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what  
> is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid,  
> and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1.  
> where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little  
> locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how  
> to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile  
> fragments....................
>
> Thanks
> Adrian
> 3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and  
> "projectus minimus neverendus"
> _________________________________________________________________
> Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
> http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet 
> +allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAll 
> ergy_1x1
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or  
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 15 21:49:46 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 18:49:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W14C7C6ED9880F12746F499EE40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <178246.12189.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I noticed on the website of Jon Wadhams that he lists one type of P6 tank sender:

Tank sender Tank sender 12G inc. seal ?52.50     
Tank sender ring Tank sender fixing ring ?3.00 
In an earlier part of life, I bought a Rover 2000 NOS sender unit from Dermot. It came in an OEM box with sealing rubber and sealing ring. I'm sure I paid less than the current advertised price.

Eric



 "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)



----- Original Message ----
From: Adrian McDonald <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 6:47:49 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck Solid



Hi All

After replacing the fuel gauge (no effect), I opted for the more difficult task of removing fuel tank / level sensor to determine why I always have about 1/3 of a tank of fuel independant of what is actually in there. The level gauge is completely corroded solid, and the tank has about 1lb of rust in it. A two part question:  1. where can I get a replacement level sensor plus the tricky little locking ring to keep it in place and 2. Any suggestions as to how to get rid of the rust after I have poured out the more mobile fragments....................

Thanks
Adrian
3500S PHRASES OF THE WEEK: "projectus maximus neverendus" and "projectus minimus neverendus"
_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.


From lingfield51 at btopenworld.com  Wed Sep 16 03:12:29 2009
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com (Partviking)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 07:12:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck Solid
Message-ID: <163609.82054.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I had a similar problem in my P4 90. My sender unit did respond to cleaning and lubricating and is fine now. The seal and lock ring are standard Land Rover parts under numbers ARA 1501L and ARA 1502L (I think) so should be easily obtained in the US

Alan Francis (partviking)
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Wed Sep 16 12:26:57 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 09:26:57 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
 Solid
In-Reply-To: <163609.82054.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <163609.82054.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W176BF374E1EA0D646115829EE20@phx.gbl>


All
 
Thanks for fuel rust advice. I did try to clean up the sender unit and was initially encouraged at some movement in the mechanism before I noticed little holes in the device and so I trashed it. I have not decided how to proceed with the initial scraping phase of the cleaning, prior to the acid wash. Once I have got the chunks out it should be easier to use the acid to clean off the residual. I may attempt to use my high pressure water sprayer with a orthoscopic modification - we will see how that works (not).
 
Adrian
 



Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 07:12:29 +0000
From: lingfield51 at btopenworld.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck Solid





I had a similar problem in my P4 90. My sender unit did respond to cleaning and lubricating and is fine now. The seal and lock ring are standard Land Rover parts under numbers ARA 1501L and ARA 1502L (I think) so should be easily obtained in the US

Alan Francis (partviking)
_________________________________________________________________
Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on digital tv's.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv's&form=MSHNCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHNCB_Vertical_Shopping_DigitalTVs_1x1

From rovercar at comcast.net  Wed Sep 16 14:11:32 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 14:11:32 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W176BF374E1EA0D646115829EE20@phx.gbl>
References: <163609.82054.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<BLU129-W176BF374E1EA0D646115829EE20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AB12A54.1090702@comcast.net>

Adrian wrote:
> I have not decided how to proceed with the initial scraping phase of the cleaning, prior to the acid wash. 

Well, chain or a bucket of nuts and bolts has worked for generations. 
Let us know if you come up with something new!

;-)

Glen


From gharrower200 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 16:00:39 2009
From: gharrower200 at gmail.com (Gordon Harrower)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 16:00:39 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fwd: Rover Sterling
In-Reply-To: <000001ca3708$864056f0$44fff804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
References: <000001ca3708$864056f0$44fff804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
Message-ID: <a8e2d8ce0909161300u47605e40j299a5a6f83661e2@mail.gmail.com>

Ben Saunders, in Virginia, asked me to pass along this message about is
Sterling being available.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bsaunders at firstva.com <bsaunders at firstva.com>
Date: Sep 16, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: Rover Sterling
To: Gordon Harrower <gharrower200 at gmail.com>

 Hey Gordon,



If you get a chance let the Rover net people know that my 1990 Rover
Sterling SLi 827 is for the taking at no charge to anyone that wants it. I
will send photos to any serious inquires.



Ben and Cathy Saunders

P. O. Box 846

Columbia, Va. 23038

(434) 842-3667
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com  Wed Sep 16 23:48:14 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 20:48:14 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator
	Stuck	Solid
In-Reply-To: <4AB12A54.1090702@comcast.net>
References: <163609.82054.qm@web86002.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<BLU129-W176BF374E1EA0D646115829EE20@phx.gbl>
	<4AB12A54.1090702@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU129-W23E435EE5281F67FFE3D669EE10@phx.gbl>


I was joking when I said 1lb of rust. When I actually poured all of it out - it kept coming, there was OVER 1lb. I hosed the tank innerds down with water and sloshed about which did quite a good job (its now as we speak rusting some more). I will then go with the chain option simply because I have not been at this long enough to accumulate spare crappy nuts / bolts......

 

Adrian
 
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 14:11:32 -0400
> From: rovercar at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck Solid
> 
> Adrian wrote:
> > I have not decided how to proceed with the initial scraping phase of the cleaning, prior to the acid wash. 
> 
> Well, chain or a bucket of nuts and bolts has worked for generations. 
> Let us know if you come up with something new!
> 
> ;-)
> 
> Glen
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you health info from trusted sources.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=pet+allergy&form=MHEINA&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_MHEINA_Health_Health_PetAllergy_1x1
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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com  Thu Sep 17 00:13:36 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 00:13:36 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator Stuck
	Solid
Message-ID: <ca1.6209b0f5.37e31170@aol.com>



      If you can get your hands on some Phosphoric Acid, add a small amount 
to the water. When dry it leaves a non corroding film of Iron Phosphate on 
the surface of the bare steel. Years ago I used a detergent in my steam 
cleaner that contained phosphoric acid. It was surprising how long it kept bare 
metal rust repairs bright. Many months on occaisons.

     MWJ.
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Thu Sep 17 00:47:33 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 04:47:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel Level Indicator
	Stuck	Solid
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W23E435EE5281F67FFE3D669EE10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <65832322.2309271253162853645.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



The chain is a better idea at any rate. It is one piece and you know when it all comes out. 



Slats 
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From phing at videotron.ca  Fri Sep 18 00:05:07 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 00:05:07 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s
	??
Message-ID: <000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca>

Hi ,

I need a new  set of pipes from the manifolds to down stream of the Y
junction . My local exhaust shop's reaction is " Duhhh??'

'Will any of the later incarnations of V8 exhausts [ Range rover , Landrover
etc]fit ?? or is there a gnome pipe bender loose in Canada or the USA ??

Any help will be gratefully received 

 Cheers 

 Patrick 

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From smokeandsteam at gmail.com  Fri Sep 18 11:23:04 2009
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:23:04 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970
	3500s ??
In-Reply-To: <000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca>
References: <000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca>
Message-ID: <204ec4390909180823q22e9edacob3f4ea50c9565d1d@mail.gmail.com>

There is no easy fix here. Parts of the various Land Rover exhaust
systems may be usable, but the system as a whole is very different

One of mine has the original system layout but has been patched so
often that very little if any of the factory metal has survived. My
local exhaust shop made up a new front section last time so maybe
trying somewhere else might get a more helpful response - some shops
are more capable than others

Aidrian

> I need a new  set of pipes from the manifolds to down stream of the Y
> junction . My local exhaust shop?s reaction is ? Duhhh???


From Pjemail at aol.com  Fri Sep 18 11:28:57 2009
From: Pjemail at aol.com (Pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 11:28:57 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970
	3500s ??
Message-ID: <cc5.5ef5b10b.37e50139@aol.com>

I have all the relevant pipes in stock. Please contact me off the Rovernet  
for details. However shipping to Canada will be relatively costly.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Sat Sep 19 11:59:49 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 12:59:49 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Off Topic
References: <000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP100A93CBE1D074741DD304395DF0@phx.gbl>

Hi Folks
           Just to let my fans know my latest book 'The Royal Navy & Me' is now available. Please email me off the list.
                                         Cheers  Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From lacpsyd6 at msn.com  Sat Sep 19 12:03:50 2009
From: lacpsyd6 at msn.com (LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 10:03:50 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Exhaust pipes 3500S
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1253289609.10159.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.3.1253289609.10159.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <COL111-DS23A346244628F84777D73A83DF0@phx.gbl>

Patrick,

If you can find a set of use manifolds, then everything after that can be fabricated.  I would definitely do some hunting in the phone book for someone who can fabricate exhaust systems.  If you take them your original parts they can usually fabricate anything.  Finding  a good 'custom exhaust' company is the trick. As for the manifolds, the original ones are of poor quality, often crack or develop holes.  When I rebuilt my engine I found a company in Denver who not only provided powder coating services but also "Jet Coating".   They were able to patch my manifolds and then completely seal the outside of them with this hot "Jet Coating".  Not only it is an aesthecially pleasing burnished chrome finish, but the manifolds are sealed and there is a substantial reduction in radiated heat.

Hope that helps.

Lance La Certe,  '70  3500S
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca<mailto:rovernet-request at rovernet.ca> 
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca> 
  Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 10:00 AM
  Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 39


  Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
  rovernet at rovernet.ca<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>

  To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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  Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to which you are referring.

  Today's Topics:

     1. Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s ?? (Patrick Hiron)
     2. Re: Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s ??
        (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
     3. Re: Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s ?? (Pjemail at aol.com<mailto:Pjemail at aol.com>)


  ----------------------------------------------------------------------

  Message: 1
  Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 00:05:07 -0400
  From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca<mailto:phing at videotron.ca>>
  Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970
  3500s ??
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>
  Message-ID: <000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca<mailto:000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca>>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

  Hi ,

  I need a new  set of pipes from the manifolds to down stream of the Y
  junction . My local exhaust shop's reaction is " Duhhh??'

  'Will any of the later incarnations of V8 exhausts [ Range rover , Landrover
  etc]fit ?? or is there a gnome pipe bender loose in Canada or the USA ??

  Any help will be gratefully received 

   Cheers 

   Patrick 

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  ------------------------------

  Message: 2
  Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:23:04 -0700
  From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam at gmail.com<mailto:smokeandsteam at gmail.com>>
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a
  1970 3500s ??
  To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
  <rovernet at rovernet.ca<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>>
  Message-ID:
  <204ec4390909180823q22e9edacob3f4ea50c9565d1d at mail.gmail.com<mailto:204ec4390909180823q22e9edacob3f4ea50c9565d1d at mail.gmail.com>>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

  There is no easy fix here. Parts of the various Land Rover exhaust
  systems may be usable, but the system as a whole is very different

  One of mine has the original system layout but has been patched so
  often that very little if any of the factory metal has survived. My
  local exhaust shop made up a new front section last time so maybe
  trying somewhere else might get a more helpful response - some shops
  are more capable than others

  Aidrian

  > I need a new  set of pipes from the manifolds to down stream of the Y
  > junction . My local exhaust shop?s reaction is ? Duhhh???



  ------------------------------

  Message: 3
  Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 11:28:57 EDT
  From: Pjemail at aol.com<mailto:Pjemail at aol.com>
  Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a
  1970 3500s ??
  To: rovernet at rovernet.ca<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>
  Message-ID: <cc5.5ef5b10b.37e50139 at aol.com<mailto:cc5.5ef5b10b.37e50139 at aol.com>>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

  I have all the relevant pipes in stock. Please contact me off the Rovernet  
  for details. However shipping to Canada will be relatively costly.
   
  Regards,
   
  Pierre Janusz
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  ------------------------------

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  http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca<http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca>
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  Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
  http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/<http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/>

  End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 39
  ****************************************
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From phing at videotron.ca  Sat Sep 19 13:55:40 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 13:55:40 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Exhaust pipes 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL111-DS23A346244628F84777D73A83DF0@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.3.1253289609.10159.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<COL111-DS23A346244628F84777D73A83DF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000c01ca3952$66ee1160$34ca3420$@ca>

Thanks every one 

 I must expand my horizons , perhaps go to a cruise night , meet some hot
rodders and find out whom they use for custom exhausts .

Lance do you have the name of your manifold coating company ?? 

Cheers 

 Patrick 

 

From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of LANCE G LACERTE, LANCE G LA CERTE
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:04 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Exhaust pipes 3500S

 

Patrick,

 

If you can find a set of use manifolds, then everything after that can be
fabricated.  I would definitely do some hunting in the phone book for
someone who can fabricate exhaust systems.  If you take them your original
parts they can usually fabricate anything.  Finding  a good 'custom exhaust'
company is the trick. As for the manifolds, the original ones are of poor
quality, often crack or develop holes.  When I rebuilt my engine I found a
company in Denver who not only provided powder coating services but also
"Jet Coating".   They were able to patch my manifolds and then completely
seal the outside of them with this hot "Jet Coating".  Not only it is an
aesthecially pleasing burnished chrome finish, but the manifolds are sealed
and there is a substantial reduction in radiated heat.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Lance La Certe,  '70  3500S

----- Original Message ----- 

From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca 

To: rovernet at rovernet.ca 

Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 10:00 AM

Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 39

 

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
rovernet-request at rovernet.ca

You can reach the person managing the list at
rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."


Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s ?? (Patrick Hiron)
   2. Re: Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s ??
      (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
   3. Re: Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970 3500s ?? (Pjemail at aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 00:05:07 -0400
From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a 1970
3500s ??
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Message-ID: <000801ca3815$359f6e30$a0de4a90$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi ,

I need a new  set of pipes from the manifolds to down stream of the Y
junction . My local exhaust shop's reaction is " Duhhh??'

'Will any of the later incarnations of V8 exhausts [ Range rover , Landrover
etc]fit ?? or is there a gnome pipe bender loose in Canada or the USA ??

Any help will be gratefully received 

 Cheers 

 Patrick 

-------------- next part --------------
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f2c8/attachment-0001.html>

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:23:04 -0700
From: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a
1970 3500s ??
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID:
<204ec4390909180823q22e9edacob3f4ea50c9565d1d at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

There is no easy fix here. Parts of the various Land Rover exhaust
systems may be usable, but the system as a whole is very different

One of mine has the original system layout but has been patched so
often that very little if any of the factory metal has survived. My
local exhaust shop made up a new front section last time so maybe
trying somewhere else might get a more helpful response - some shops
are more capable than others

Aidrian

> I need a new  set of pipes from the manifolds to down stream of the Y
> junction . My local exhaust shop?s reaction is ? Duhhh???



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 11:28:57 EDT
From: Pjemail at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Source of exhaust pipes for a
1970 3500s ??
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Message-ID: <cc5.5ef5b10b.37e50139 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have all the relevant pipes in stock. Please contact me off the Rovernet  
for details. However shipping to Canada will be relatively costly.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
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------------------------------

_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 39
****************************************

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From petesgarage04 at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 19 14:06:22 2009
From: petesgarage04 at yahoo.com (Pete Holbrook)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 11:06:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13
Message-ID: <606413.46450.qm@web83002.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks to everyones help, 
?
I completed the whole rally, I also won the "Willie Makit" award for doing so under such adverse conditions.
?
The night before the rally the rad?top tank was still leaking under pressure so I used a whole can of Bondo on it and viola! problem solved,
?
6.45am the first day?a massive thunder/electrical storm hit northern California, this is a once a decade event and never in September, it poured with rain and thats when I realised I had no wipers, 
?
So I Rainexed the windshield and continued on.
?
At the start there were other cars with no wipers and quite a few with no roofs, as you can imagine this added to the fun and break downs, as most of the British cars did not like moisture, fuses blew and wet?distributors caused havock.
?
My first problem was brake fade going down a steep winding road through a canyon!
?
I calmly told my copilot that the brakes felt strange as we flew down the roads.
?
I was careful with the brakes for the rest of the rally.
?
Second problem, a deep loud knock at certain power bands between?50 mph to 70 mph,
I found I could drive through the Knock, I had put in?30 sae oil and eventually put in a bottle of "motor honey"
?
The engine ran fine did not use or leak oil and the electric fan I fitted?and the six blade Ben sent kept it cool.
?
The Rainex worked for about?1 hour?at a time, then I had to find a dry spot to dry things up and add more as the rain was torrential for a while.
?
At some point on the second day I noticed a loud squeal on cornering, it came from the front left wheel, I found while looking at it?that an upper??ball joint was loosening up and making the wheel feel really?loose, I avoided the position which made the squeal as much as possible.
?
I had also realised that the large cache of tools and parts in the bottom of the trunk was making the?car handle like a water tanker, so I moved all that stuff to the back seat.
?
Thats when I noticed the rad was now leaking and requiring occassional top ups so I carried a couple gallons of coolant, Bars leak was added to no avail.
?
I was carrying 2 gallons of gas as the guage was stuck and gas was sparse.
?
Then I hit a hidden pot hole which seemed to make the steering a little less accurate.
?
I tried to wire the rat chewed wiper motor wire to power, while in a storm, I could not get it to do a thing!
?
The rain got worse and even a bit foggy, I was going cross eyed from watching rain drops run across the window.
?
Late Sunday evening we made it to Fort Bragg, to rousing cheers when we arrived at the hotel, sad to say? a mini, Jowett, TR6, and a few others did not, 
at 1.30 am a TR6 that had limped in, died at the edge of town, next morn a car left by flat bed truck?
?
The final day it poured for the first half of the day which made it scary on the coast road,
?
at some points I had the TC up to 80 mph and made it back with a few short cuts.
?
I had a great time, did? 900 plus miles and won that coveted award!
?
I have attached some emails with links to pics, not many of the Rover but plenty of great cars to look at, the Aston Martin DB6 made it all the way back the 400 miles to LA then broke down!
?
Again, thanks for all you help everyone!
?
Cheers, Peter Holbrook #20
?


?

? 



Finally got my pictures uploaded onto Flickr last night, including some of the pool shots from Saturday which didn't get uploaded. Comment freely on the pictures and let me know if I got anyone/anything wrong in the captions.
<http://www.flickr. com/photos/ 68144590@ N00/sets/ 7215762222934691 9/>

To echo everyone else, a great time over the weekend. Accolades to the organizers, a big thanks for the participants for a thoroughly enjoyable drive and Fiid William, the co-pilot in the Volvo. Sunday was quite the adventure with the intervention of mother nature in the afternoon. It will provide all sorts of material for the bar visits over the next couple months.

Ben Buja
SF, CA 

--- In californiamelee@ yahoogroups. com, Matt <velomatte at . ..> wrote:
>
> All,
> ?
> I have posted an event write up and link to photos on my blog if you want to check it out.? I had fun with y'all and look forward to the next event!
> ?
> Write up: ?http://giuliettas. com/2009/ 09/16/california -melee-13- event-report/
> Pictures: http://giuliettas. com/events/
> Matt
> 
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail. yahoo.com
>


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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 19 17:21:00 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 21:21:00 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Header or manifold coating
Message-ID: <BAY119-W2254576B146917D8AB5BC9DEDF0@phx.gbl>


Hi Patrick.......

 

                   In The USA you have Jet Hot Coatings......this is what Lance referred to......Up here in the Great White North there are no Jet Hot Dealers that i know of..........However we have Fireball Coatings......Same principle.....ceramic coating...reduces heat, improves gas mileage,,,blah blah blah........You can get them through Performance Improvements shops here but not sure if they are in Montreal...........Going to be about $300 dollars in variety of colours..............will we see you at British Car Day???????

Cheers

Bill

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From ABoasberg at webtv.net  Sun Sep 20 08:30:12 2009
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 05:30:12 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: Patrick Hiron <phing@videotron.ca>'s message of Sat, 19 Sep
	2009 13:55:40 -0400
Message-ID: <21947-4AB62054-1103@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net>


On my '69 TC2000, the air louvers on the dash work to allow fresh air to
flow in from the outside when the car is under way.

On my '70 3500S, these louvers carry cooled air from the AC, but no
fresh air comes in when the AC is not operating.

Are they supposed to operate that way, i.e., only allow cooled AC air to
enter or is something clogged in my system?

Thanks.

Albert



From pjemail at aol.com  Sun Sep 20 11:36:45 2009
From: pjemail at aol.com (pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 11:36:45 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: <21947-4AB62054-1103@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <8CC081F4B905A70-820-9D33@webmail-d033.sysops.aol.com>


Dear Albert,



On the 3500S Auto with a/c there ?is no ram pressure ventilation. You only get ventilation when the fan is on; this can be on without the a/c being engaged (i.e the compressor).



Regards,



Pierre Janusz


-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 13:30
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S





On my '69 TC2000, the air louvers on the dash work to allow fresh air to
flow in from the outside when the car is under way.

On my '70 3500S, these louvers carry cooled air from the AC, but no
fresh air comes in when the AC is not operating.

Are they supposed to operate that way, i.e., only allow cooled AC air to
enter or is something clogged in my system?

Thanks.

Albert


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From flemna at yahoo.ca  Sun Sep 20 16:17:03 2009
From: flemna at yahoo.ca (Fred Lemna)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 13:17:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber Options
Message-ID: <948093.47552.qm@web38505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Any experiences with P5 shock absorber cross referencing numbers?  The current gas shocks make the
car ride like a short wheelbase Landrover.  Looking for that characteristic "ride and glide" of the P5.
Suggestions?



      __________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
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From kkinard at att.net  Sun Sep 20 21:02:52 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 20:02:52 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber
 Options
In-Reply-To: <948093.47552.qm@web38505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <948093.47552.qm@web38505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AB6D0BC.3070302@att.net>

Don't have a clue, Fred.
-Kent K.

Fred Lemna wrote:
> 	
>
> Any experiences with P5 shock absorber cross referencing numbers?  The 
> current gas shocks make the
> car ride like a short wheelbase Landrover.  Looking for that 
> characteristic "ride and glide" of the P5.
> Suggestions?
>
> 	
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>



From slbridge at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 20 21:31:46 2009
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 01:31:46 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber
 Options
In-Reply-To: <4AB6D0BC.3070302@att.net>
References: <948093.47552.qm@web38505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4AB6D0BC.3070302@att.net>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W36DD1180A2C75139D9E823CFDD0@phx.gbl>


Maybe a liquid filled shock, more like the OEM unit would have been. Armstrong 1959-73?

> Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 20:02:52 -0500
> From: kkinard at att.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber Options
> 
> Don't have a clue, Fred.
> -Kent K.
> 
> Fred Lemna wrote:
> > 	
> >
> > Any experiences with P5 shock absorber cross referencing numbers?  The 
> > current gas shocks make the
> > car ride like a short wheelbase Landrover.  Looking for that 
> > characteristic "ride and glide" of the P5.
> > Suggestions?
> >
> > 	
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/
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From ABoasberg at webtv.net  Mon Sep 21 08:24:11 2009
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 05:24:11 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: pjemail@aol.com's message of Sun, 20 Sep 2009 11:36:45 -0400
Message-ID: <25696-4AB7706B-58@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net>

Dear Pierre:

Thanks for your informative answer.

It's a relief to know that nothing is clogging my ventilation system on
the 3500.

When the fan is on, but not the compressor, does the air being drawn in
come from outside the car, as is the case with the '69TC, or from inside
the car?

Thanks.

Albert 



From pjemail at aol.com  Mon Sep 21 09:23:26 2009
From: pjemail at aol.com (pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:23:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: <25696-4AB7706B-58@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net>
References: pjemail@aol.com's message of Sun, 20 Sep 2009 11:36:45 -0400
	<25696-4AB7706B-58@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <8CC08D5D5DA427F-820-126F0@webmail-d033.sysops.aol.com>


With the fan on and the compressor off the air coming through the vents will be from the outside UNLESS the temperature control knob is turned to? the extreme left (anti-clockwise), at which position the recirculation valve should be set to exclude all outside air and therefore there will only be re-circulated air from inside the passenger cabin.



Regards,



Pierre


-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:24
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S




Dear Pierre:

Thanks for your informative answer.

It's a relief to know that nothing is clogging my ventilation system on
the 3500.

When the fan is on, but not the compressor, does the air being drawn in
come from outside the car, as is the case with the '69TC, or from inside
the car?

Thanks.

Albert 


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From ABoasberg at webtv.net  Mon Sep 21 09:56:02 2009
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 06:56:02 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: pjemail@aol.com's message of Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:23:26 -0400
Message-ID: <23164-4AB785F2-1010@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>

Thanks again, Pierre, for another very informative and useful reply.

Best regards,
Albert



From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Mon Sep 21 19:28:12 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:28:12 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
Message-ID: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>

The engine rebuild and overbore on my 2000TC should be done in the  
next week or so.
What oils are you guys/gals using in your cars?
Any advantage to using a synthetic?
Should I be using a zinc additive?
There's still a few things to do before I can get the car registered  
and on the road.
I don't anticipate being able to do a proper break in until at least  
next summer or fall.
Thanks for any help.

Roy


From sdibdin at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 21 19:56:38 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 19:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP54601872C58FA28DCB88C0B0DD0@phx.gbl>

> Hi Roy,

I use Castol 20W50 oil for mine, being an older engine the original  
tolerances are pretty low compared to modern motors. This means that  
the modern lighter oils tend to leak out of the engine. I have heard  
talk of folk using oil formulated for diesel engines as they have  
certain additives that help older engines that modern oils have  
reduced. There is one that has been all but removed from oil for  
petrol engines that can cause reground cams to fail prematurely.

Anyway that's my two penneth's worth.

Cheers,

Steven 
    


From vern at inkspotco.com  Mon Sep 21 20:22:20 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:22:20 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <99FB78A4-2769-4678-96A7-5BEC17587C8A@inkspotco.com>


On 2009-09-21, at 4:28 PM, Roy Babiuk wrote:

> The engine rebuild and overbore on my 2000TC should be done in the  
> next week or so.
> What oils are you guys/gals using in your cars?

I run a 20W50 synthetic in mine. On a fresh rebuild, 10W30 should be  
good too.

> Any advantage to using a synthetic?

Yes, if you drive the car quite a bit. If it only gets a little use,  
you're going to be changing the oil on time and synthetic looses some  
of its appeal.
> Should I be using a zinc additive?

Don't know what you are talking about here.

Yours
Vern
> There's still a few things to do before I can get the car registered  
> and on the road.
> I don't anticipate being able to do a proper break in until at least  
> next summer or fall.
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Roy
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no- 
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From kkinard at att.net  Mon Sep 21 20:47:57 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 19:47:57 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <99FB78A4-2769-4678-96A7-5BEC17587C8A@inkspotco.com>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
	<99FB78A4-2769-4678-96A7-5BEC17587C8A@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <4AB81EBD.80109@att.net>

Roy and Vern,
Roy is talking about the additive that is being phased out of almost all 
oils except those formulated for antique vehicle. 
The additive is ZDDP (zink dialkyldithiophosphate) and yes it contains 
zinc (which is bad for catalytic converters) and YES you should be using 
a ZDDP additive, especially when breaking in a newly rebuilt engine.  
Failure to add ZDDP will result in very rapid cam wear in any engine 
that does not have roller cam followers.  Rover V8 are more vulnerable 
than 4's or IOE 6's.  Mk. II and later IOE sixes use roller followers.  
Fours just have really big cam lobes with low ramp angles.  You must use 
ZDDP in the break in oil and a lesser amount regularly.  See 
manufacturer's instructions.  There is an article in British Motoring, 
Winter 2009, by Michael Grant.

Roverly,
Kent K.

Vern Klukas wrote:
>
>> Should I be using a zinc additive?
>
> Don't know what you are talking about here.



From rovercar at comcast.net  Mon Sep 21 21:33:07 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 21:33:07 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <4AB82953.5020103@comcast.net>

Roy Babiuk wrote:
> Any advantage to using a synthetic?
>
> Roy 

I don't know if anyone has stated this directly and in a darned obvious 
manner, but I've always heard that you DO NOT want to put synthetic oil 
in a newly rebuilt engine because you need a bit of friction in order 
for things to break in and seat properly.  Still true, no?

Glen


From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Mon Sep 21 22:59:36 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:59:36 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP54601872C58FA28DCB88C0B0DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
	<BLU0-SMTP54601872C58FA28DCB88C0B0DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E6E7D24250B149E2ABEF38735D387EDC@Vista>

 I have heard
> talk of folk using oil formulated for diesel engines as they have  certain 
> additives that help older engines that modern oils have  reduced. There is 
> one that has been all but removed from oil for  petrol engines that can 
> cause reground cams to fail prematurely.

I knew a guy who had a 105S, he was a large diesel mechanic, worked on 
earthmoving gear.
He had 238000 miles on the S (in 1975) with no engine rework, and said he 
exclusively used diesel engine oil in it.

PVS 



From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Mon Sep 21 23:02:00 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:02:00 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <4AB82953.5020103@comcast.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
	<4AB82953.5020103@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <068723DC08FC488C9C3839849585D0C5@Vista>

I use cheapo oil for the first 200 miles, then change it and put good oil in 
with Nulon PTFE treatment.
The stuff works.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Glen Wilson" <rovercar at comcast.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine


> Roy Babiuk wrote:
>> Any advantage to using a synthetic?
>>
>> Roy
>
> I don't know if anyone has stated this directly and in a darned obvious 
> manner, but I've always heard that you DO NOT want to put synthetic oil in 
> a newly rebuilt engine because you need a bit of friction in order for 
> things to break in and seat properly.  Still true, no?
>
> Glen
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From phing at videotron.ca  Mon Sep 21 23:43:11 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 23:43:11 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <4AB82953.5020103@comcast.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
	<4AB82953.5020103@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000e01ca3b36$ceffbde0$6cff39a0$@ca>

Hi 
There is a long informative article on oil formulation on the UK Penrite oil
co web page www.penriteoil.com/uk which confirms that older engines need oil
with zinc additives , and there is little advantage in using synthetic oils
in older engines 
I use Castrol 20W/50 MOTORCYCLE oil , which has zinc additives in its
formulation ,[ bikes don't have catalytic converters ].
 Cheers 
 Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Glen Wilson
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 9:33 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine

Roy Babiuk wrote:
> Any advantage to using a synthetic?
>
> Roy 

I don't know if anyone has stated this directly and in a darned obvious 
manner, but I've always heard that you DO NOT want to put synthetic oil 
in a newly rebuilt engine because you need a bit of friction in order 
for things to break in and seat properly.  Still true, no?

Glen

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From slatskars at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 01:51:54 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 05:51:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <1794298044.4132851253598714536.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Roy, 



The local (Portland, OR/Vancouver, WA) MG groups have done a lot of research on the subject of the lack of zinc in modern oils. The consensus is that an additive should be used to minimize cam and follower wear. It is too late in the day for me to get the name of a highly recommended additive. but I will tommorrow morning. A good friend who is a professional mechanic, wrote a few articles on the subject and really pursued it to the oil manufacturers. I will get the references and post them. Diesel oils such as Chevron DELO do have some zinc, but that too has been reduced. The additive is much less expensive than an engine rebuid is my attitude. The one I am thinking about comes in a neat bottle with a built in measuring system. will post tommorrow. 



Glen is correct in that using a regular oil for breakin is recommended. Then change to synthetic if desired. Notice no wise remarks about Glen being correct again! : - ) 



Slats 
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From rovercar at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 02:28:24 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 02:28:24 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <1794298044.4132851253598714536.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1794298044.4132851253598714536.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AB86E88.9000006@comcast.net>

slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
> Glen is correct in that using a regular oil for breakin is 
> recommended. Then change to synthetic if desired. Notice no wise 
> remarks about Glen being correct again! : - )
>
>  Slats
>

I and my team of simian typists rely heavily on the law of averages!  ;-)

Glen
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From peter_m at amnet.net.au  Tue Sep 22 05:15:51 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:15:51 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P6B: Querying the size of the
	rubber joiner on fuel filler pipe
In-Reply-To: <4AB86E88.9000006@comcast.net>
References: <1794298044.4132851253598714536.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4AB86E88.9000006@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003301ca3b65$4849c410$d8dd4c30$@net.au>

Hello Rovernetters,

 

When I fill my car I am noticing (by sight and smell) a seepage of fuel that is coming from the rubber joiner between the fuel cap and the tank.  I?ve tried tightening up the joiner but to no avail.

 

Clearly, it is time to replace the joiner.

 

I can simply remove the pipe and take it to an auto parts business for matching to a replacement, but I am wondering if someone with a workshop manual might be able to provide me with a description of the part for ordering purposes.

 

Appreciate any advice that members might be able to offer.

 

Kind regards,

 

Peter Mitchell

Perth, Western Australia





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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com  Tue Sep 22 08:08:48 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:08:48 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber
	Options
Message-ID: <d3a.4f4cd1bb.37ea1850@aol.com>



      Grrrr,
               Match the shock to the spring. Select (or re-use ) your 
Spring and then match the shock to the spring. However, before we go any 
further, re-arrange your thoughts to the fact that the Spring is actually the "Road 
Shock Absorber" and the shockie is actually the "Spring Damper". Once we 
get there, we can start to work on stuff like Spring Frequency and high and 
low speed Damping.

     Wild Guess, the Suspension guys have supplied a "
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From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Tue Sep 22 09:52:24 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 07:52:24 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] fuel filler pipe
Message-ID: <01765C0C-7192-4E9C-AC86-31FE1C6DFAD9@telusplanet.net>

good pics with part numbers at rover classics site. Click here:
http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/images/reference/thumbnailv8/fuel/index.htm
click on desired image for enlargement.



From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Tue Sep 22 09:55:34 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 07:55:34 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] oil for rebuilt 4 cyl
Message-ID: <1974647A-2C41-4064-8237-EFC3353ED4B5@telusplanet.net>

Thanks all for your input and insight!
One last question;
Is it beneficial to use a designated break in oil such as royal purple  
break in oil?
What's the difference?

Roy



From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com  Tue Sep 22 10:15:13 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:15:13 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber
	Options
Message-ID: <bbf.59b970f1.37ea35f1@aol.com>



    Gentlemen, Ruth, the Lady in LA and any other Wives, Girlfriends, Best 
Friends, etc,

      Got a bit of "Finger Trouble" with my last  " message:". Won't say 
Post, that has a different meaning in Oz (Last Post). With three screens and 
two or three hours for Office Work Hours a day, I make mistakes. Not perfect, 
I need six to Eight Hours in the Office to keep on top of things.     

     I just can't catch up with the Rovers, Let alone the Boats. I have 
better Coracles.  Very, Very FAST.  Irish..

     Getting back to the suspenders,  you have got to match the shock to 
the spring.

    I'll start again. The spring is actually the Road Shock Absorber. All 
the bumps in the Road, thats is what the spring absorbs. The "Shock Absorber" 
is actually the "Spring Damper".   It KEEPS THE SPRING UNDER CONTROL.   See 
if we can all get our collective heads around that. This stuff also is very 
directly related to coiled Valvolo Springs. They  regularly and very 
radiply get wacked on top so that the coils in the middle start to wobble up and 
down,  as the spring gets squashed. Then the Wobbly  Spring has to shove the 
Floaty valve back on its seat. The wobbly Mass of the middle of the Coil 
Spring has a lot to do with its Frequency. That is where Torsion Bars get their 
acendency.    NO Wobbly Coils in the Middle.  Spring Frequency has a little 
bit to do with the Rock Hard P5.  The kiddies in the Suspension shop 
probably thought that this Wonderful Old British Royalty Carrier, needed a bit of 
Sharp Turn In. So They have  given you  some Dampers with way too much low 
speed damping. Great if you want do 70 to 100 MPH's along a winding road. 
Wonderful .. But in America, P5's were actually sold against GM and other 
products where one of the Major Engineering Concerns was to conceal from the 
occupants of the VEHICLE, was that it was actually MOVING....

     Fred, old mate,  and all,  how about you all do a bit of research on  
Damper valving , low speed, medium and High Speed, Plus Adjustable ( start 
with Koni).. Then do a bit of work on spring Rate and Frequency.. It is 
probably a bit over the top but somebody might catch on.   

   Last Thing, after Midnight again and I have to strap 40 tonne of 
IronMongery to the seat of my pants at 6am, bloke I used to work with about 35year 
ago, John Anderson, was real good at this stuff. He was an MGB bloke. Tried 
to catch up with him almost 20 year ago when A.J.  and Mario were doing 
their thing down the Coast. Got a bit tangled up with other gear.

    Dunno where this goes but I am going to try an d get at least 3 hours 
sleep for the Fourth night in succession ...

      SPRING RATE and DAMPER VALVING, Please Investigate Further..


  Regards.  

                  MWJ.

       

      
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 22 11:34:48 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P6B: Querying the size of the
	rubber joiner on fuel filler pipe
In-Reply-To: <003301ca3b65$4849c410$d8dd4c30$@net.au>
References: <1794298044.4132851253598714536.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4AB86E88.9000006@comcast.net>
	<003301ca3b65$4849c410$d8dd4c30$@net.au>
Message-ID: <136555.82360.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Peter,
Jon Wadhams shows one on his website:
Refs:
 Petrol gaitor -----  Petrol pipe to rear deck panel gaitor? ----?20.00
https://www.jrwadhams.co.uk/index.asp

Steve Walker sells on eBay under the seller name:? allrovers
Not sure if this link will continue to work to get to the place where you can send him a question within eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-P6-bumpstops_W0QQitemZ360190719317QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item53dd0a3555&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

Another popular seller uses the seller name: voking2000
Same kid of eBay link here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/P6-ROVER-FRONT-OVERRIDER-LH-553801-NOS-GENUINE_W0QQitemZ350255444922QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item518cd9f3ba&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

RPS is a supplier in the UK. Pierre is a contributor on this list. A search of my inbox for this list turned up his address at:?Pjemail at aol.com

Perhaps he might have one.

Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC) 




________________________________
From: Peter Mitchell <peter_m at amnet.net.au>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 2:15:51 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P6B: Querying the size of the rubber joiner on fuel filler pipe


Hello Rovernetters,
?
When I fill my car I am noticing (by sight and smell) a seepage of fuel that is coming from the rubber joiner between the fuel cap and the tank. ?I?ve tried tightening up the joiner but to no avail.
?
Clearly, it is time to replace the joiner.
?
I can simply remove the pipe and take it to an auto parts business for matching to a replacement, but I am wondering if someone with a workshop manual might be able to provide me with a description of the part for ordering purposes.
?
Appreciate any advice that members might be able to offer.
?
Kind regards,
?
Peter Mitchell
Perth, Western Australia



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From slatskars at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 16:17:26 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:17:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine, update
In-Reply-To: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <549427116.4397771253650646771.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



O.K. I checked in with my good friend, Keith Ansell, the proprietor of Foreign Parts Positively. He is the gent that wrote the articles on the subject of ZDDP missing from the modern oils. Just google "oil is killing our cars" it will take you to several links. There are three or four articles going back to 2006. The latest one is the most telling as things have developed over time. The articles can also be found on his web site www.foreignpartspositively.com , phone number is 1-360-882-3596. He is located in Brush Prairie, WA, near Vancouver, WA. The product that he recommends is Cam Shield and it is priced at $13.95 which will treat 16 quarts. He does sell it or simply go on line to camshield.com. 



Slats 



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From ABoasberg at webtv.net  Tue Sep 22 19:57:10 2009
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:57:10 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: pjemail@aol.com's message of Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:23:26 -0400
Message-ID: <26058-4AB96456-191@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>

I'm still getting warm but not fresh air from the louvers, even when I
turn the lefthand heater dial to the blue area and up from the extreme
counterclockwise AC position and then turn on the fan to various
positions.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Albert



From rababiuk at telusplanet.net  Tue Sep 22 20:20:45 2009
From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net (Roy Babiuk)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 18:20:45 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
Message-ID: <81B9630A-6C1F-4035-B8AE-13D50F6E7B9D@telusplanet.net>

Anyone ever have steel wheels repaired?
I have 8 14 X 5.5 Rostyles. Unfortunately most have been curbed.
At this time, I have 2 at best that are "good".
Most have some degree of denting along the rim and one has a small  
crack at the rim. I haven't checked any for trueness yet...
Another looks good around the rim with no dents but after going at it  
with a wire brush, has quite a bit of pitting inside the rim and  
outside of barrel. How much rust is too much?
I do have sources for replacement wheels, including the Canadian Rover  
club, but I am stubborn and don't want to give up on these rims  
without a fight.
Any suggestions?

Roy





From vmitps at netspace.net.au  Tue Sep 22 20:21:50 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 10:21:50 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: <26058-4AB96456-191@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
References: <26058-4AB96456-191@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <267F4D43CC2D4481B7D38263E65A2305@Vista>

The seals on the flaps are not sealing.
Try adjusting the flaps as per the manual, or pull the heater box out and 
renew the seals.

PVS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Albert Boasberg" <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S


> I'm still getting warm but not fresh air from the louvers, even when I
> turn the lefthand heater dial to the blue area and up from the extreme
> counterclockwise AC position and then turn on the fan to various
> positions.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 22 20:49:47 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 00:49:47 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
Message-ID: <BAY119-W4100FA097534434C3AEC30DEDB0@phx.gbl>


The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our older cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs Racing oil, Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this need.....note the Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your regular GTX which is for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These oils are widely available in the US ........you have to look harder up here in Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get it just down the road from me .........A little more money but good insurance and recomended by most engine builders and cam manufacturers.....

Just a thought

Bill Robertson

_________________________________________________________________
Click less, chat more: Messenger on MSN.ca
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677404
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From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 22 22:28:38 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 19:28:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13
Message-ID: <198638.78896.qm@web83008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sent it with the?wrong email and I think it got blocked,


--- On Sat, 9/19/09, Pete Holbrook <petesgarage04 at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Pete Holbrook <petesgarage04 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw: California Melee 13
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Saturday, September 19, 2009, 11:06 AM







Thanks to everyones help, 
?
I completed the whole rally, I also won the "Willie Makit" award for doing so under such adverse conditions.
?
The night before the rally the rad?top tank was still leaking under pressure so I used a whole can of Bondo on it and viola! problem solved,
?
6.45am the first day?a massive thunder/electrical storm hit northern California, this is a once a decade event and never in September, it poured with rain and thats when I realised I had no wipers, 
?
So I Rainexed the windshield and continued on.
?
At the start there were other cars with no wipers and quite a few with no roofs, as you can imagine this added to the fun and break downs, as most of the British cars did not like moisture, fuses blew and wet?distributors caused havock.
?
My first problem was brake fade going down a steep winding road through a canyon!
?
I calmly told my copilot that the brakes felt strange as we flew down the roads.
?
I was careful with the brakes for the rest of the rally.
?
Second problem, a deep loud knock at certain power bands between?50 mph to 70 mph,
I found I could drive through the Knock, I had put in?30 sae oil and eventually put in a bottle of "motor honey"
?
The engine ran fine did not use or leak oil and the electric fan I fitted?and the six blade Ben sent kept it cool.
?
The Rainex worked for about?1 hour?at a time, then I had to find a dry spot to dry things up and add more as the rain was torrential for a while.
?
At some point on the second day I noticed a loud squeal on cornering, it came from the front left wheel, I found while looking at it?that an upper??ball joint was loosening up and making the wheel feel really?loose, I avoided the position which made the squeal as much as possible.
?
I had also realised that the large cache of tools and parts in the bottom of the trunk was making the?car handle like a water tanker, so I moved all that stuff to the back seat.
?
Thats when I noticed the rad was now leaking and requiring occassional top ups so I carried a couple gallons of coolant, Bars leak was added to no avail.
?
I was carrying 2 gallons of gas as the guage was stuck and gas was sparse.
?
Then I hit a hidden pot hole which seemed to make the steering a little less accurate.
?
I tried to wire the rat chewed wiper motor wire to power, while in a storm, I could not get it to do a thing!
?
The rain got worse and even a bit foggy, I was going cross eyed from watching rain drops run across the window.
?
Late Sunday evening we made it to Fort Bragg, to rousing cheers when we arrived at the hotel, sad to say? a mini, Jowett, TR6, and a few others did not, 
at 1.30 am a TR6 that had limped in, died at the edge of town, next morn a car left by flat bed truck?
?
The final day it poured for the first half of the day which made it scary on the coast road,
?
at some points I had the TC up to 80 mph and made it back with a few short cuts.
?
I had a great time, did? 900 plus miles and won that coveted award!
?
I have attached some emails with links to pics, not many of the Rover but plenty of great cars to look at, the Aston Martin DB6 made it all the way back the 400 miles to LA then broke down!
?
Again, thanks for all you help everyone!
?
Cheers, Peter Holbrook #20
?


?

? 



Finally got my pictures uploaded onto Flickr last night, including some of the pool shots from Saturday which didn't get uploaded. Comment freely on the pictures and let me know if I got anyone/anything wrong in the captions.
<http://www.flickr. com/photos/ 68144590@ N00/sets/ 7215762222934691 9/>

To echo everyone else, a great time over the weekend. Accolades to the organizers, a big thanks for the participants for a thoroughly enjoyable drive and Fiid William, the co-pilot in the Volvo. Sunday was quite the adventure with the intervention of mother nature in the afternoon. It will provide all sorts of material for the bar visits over the next couple months.

Ben Buja
SF, CA 

--- In californiamelee@ yahoogroups. com, Matt <velomatte at . ..> wrote:
>
> All,
> ?
> I have posted an event write up and link to photos on my blog if you want to check it out.? I had fun with y'all and look forward to the next event!
> ?
> Write up: ?http://giuliettas. com/2009/ 09/16/california -melee-13- event-report/
> Pictures: http://giuliettas. com/events/
> Matt
> 
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail. yahoo.com
>


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From rovercar at comcast.net  Tue Sep 22 23:46:25 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 23:46:25 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Jaguar vs Rover test drive
Message-ID: <4AB99A11.9050009@comcast.net>

I had an interesting experience the other day. Someone offered to let me 
take their 1967 Jaguar 420 out for a test drive.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_420_and_Daimler_Sovereign_(1966%E2%80%9369)

This is not the huge 420G but the final iteration of the MKI/MKII/S-type 
line. It was a proper LHD model for the States and was in very nice 
condition. The interior was excellent, and I have always quite liked the 
styling. The driving experience was, however, quite a let down. I 
suppose that it might be an excellent highway cruiser, but it felt 
really dead to me. It was not at all sporty, and there was no road feel 
whatsoever. When we got out at the end of the drive, my wife commented 
that the closing door didn't have that satisfying clunk one always gets 
with a P6 door.

Frankly, I'd much rather drive a nicely turned out 2000TC or Federal 
3500S. The TC rides better, handles better, and the interior is 
perfectly comfortable, though the faux wood is some sort of formica in 
the P6.  I've driven 1500 miles in a Federal 3500S over the course of 
three days, and it just eats up the highway miles and swooshes through 
high speed turns.

Now, I haven't driven a P5, yet, because I was too timid to take Dirk's 
blue beauty out on the public roads. I'm guessing that the P5 may be a 
little bit more like the Jag being larger, somewhat less sporty than a 
P6 and a somewhat older design, but I'm also guessing the Queen knew 
what she was doing when she chose Rover saloons.

I might have to throw the Jag a bone and admit that it was more stylish 
than a P6 with its bolt on panels, but that would be about all I would 
give it.

Glen


From pjemail at aol.com  Wed Sep 23 03:09:59 2009
From: pjemail at aol.com (pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 03:09:59 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S
In-Reply-To: <26058-4AB96456-191@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
References: pjemail@aol.com's message of Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:23:26 -0400
	<26058-4AB96456-191@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <8CC0A33FF533F2A-5AA4-EFB0@webmail-m026.sysops.aol.com>


Dear Albert,



I don't think that anything wrong is happening (unless the recirculating valve is not operating, so that the unit is set on re-circulation all the time). When "fresh" air comes in it inevitably gets heated as a result of coming through or near the engine compartment and/or the heater radiator; this is very different from the ram air you get on the 2000 TC, and means that you often feel you want the a/c on at all times.



Regards,



Pierre Janusz


-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 0:57
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S




I'm still getting warm but not fresh air from the louvers, even when I
turn the lefthand heater dial to the blue area and up from the extreme
counterclockwise AC position and then turn on the fan to various
positions.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Albert


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

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From p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk  Wed Sep 23 03:56:03 2009
From: p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk (p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:56:03 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
References: <81B9630A-6C1F-4035-B8AE-13D50F6E7B9D@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <5D35E6689B714BDAB11189E517911695@SN037535920331>

Hi Roy
There is a company in the West Midlands (UK), called RJ Spratley, they 
specialise in Rostyle wheels.
http://www.rjspratley.com/wheels.htm

Speak Soon
Warmest regards
Mark

Mark Gray
Editor, Driving Force
The Rover P6 Club
www.p6club.com
editor at p6club.com
Club line 01902 689975
Mobile 078 333 48030




From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Wed Sep 23 07:45:03 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:45:03 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13
References: <198638.78896.qm@web83008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP148B20393A88FEAEC12DF995DB0@phx.gbl>

Hi Peter
           Congratulations on winning the 'Will he Makit' award. You should be very proud and certainly held up the Rovers end in this rally. Great photos of so many different cars, The reason your car wasnt photographed more was probably because you were leading the pack, they mostly photographed the break downers!!!. I guess you could say I was there as a fan!!!
                                   Regards  Ben.(irishrover)



*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From peter_m at amnet.net.au  Wed Sep 23 08:07:08 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:07:08 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6B - rubber joiner on fuel filler pipe
In-Reply-To: <136555.82360.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1794298044.4132851253598714536.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>	<4AB86E88.9000006@comcast.net>	<003301ca3b65$4849c410$d8dd4c30$@net.au>
	<136555.82360.qm@web34302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002101ca3c46$6025fcc0$2071f640$@net.au>

Hi Eric and Roy,

 

Many thanks for your kind advice on the joiner for the fuel filler pipe; I will chase up these lines of enquiry.

 

The Rover has just had a full rebuild of the transmission as well as a recent new engine, so I would hate to lose the car to a preventable fire.

 

Kind regards

 

Peter Mitchell

 





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From p6rovers at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 11:36:06 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13
In-Reply-To: <198638.78896.qm@web83008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <198638.78896.qm@web83008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <790547.62994.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I read this same email, before, on September 19.

Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC) 




________________________________
From: "pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net" <pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 7:28:38 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13


Sent it with the?wrong email and I think it got blocked,


--- On Sat, 9/19/09, Pete Holbrook <petesgarage04 at yahoo.com> wrote:


>From: Pete Holbrook <petesgarage04 at yahoo.com>
>Subject: Fw: California Melee 13
>To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>Date: Saturday, September 19, 2009, 11:06 AM
>
>
>Thanks to everyones help, 
>
>I completed the whole rally, I also won the "Willie Makit" award for doing so under such adverse conditions.
>
>The night before the rally the rad?top tank was still leaking under pressure so I used a whole can of Bondo on it and viola! problem solved,
>
>6.45am the first day?a massive thunder/electrical storm hit northern California, this is a once a decade event and never in September, it poured with rain and thats when I realised I had no wipers, 
>
>So I Rainexed the windshield and continued on.
>
>At the start there were other cars with no wipers and quite a few with no roofs, as you can imagine this added to the fun and break downs, as most of the British cars did not like moisture, fuses blew and wet?distributors caused havock.
>
>My first problem was brake fade going down a steep winding road through a canyon!
>
>I calmly told my copilot that the brakes felt strange as we flew down the roads.
>
>I was careful with the brakes for the rest of the rally.
>
>Second problem, a deep loud knock at certain power bands between?50 mph to 70 mph,
>I found I could drive through the Knock, I had put in?30 sae oil and eventually put in a bottle of "motor honey"
>
>The engine ran fine did not use or leak oil and the electric fan I fitted?and the six blade Ben sent kept it cool.
>
>The Rainex worked for about?1 hour?at a time, then I had to find a dry spot to dry things up and add more as the rain was torrential for a while.
>
>At some point on the second day I noticed a loud squeal on cornering, it came from the front left wheel, I found while looking at it?that an upper??ball joint was loosening up and making the wheel feel really?loose, I avoided the position which made the squeal as much as possible.
>
>I had also realised that the large cache of tools and parts in the bottom of the trunk was making the?car handle like a water tanker, so I moved all that stuff to the back seat.
>
>Thats when I noticed the rad was now leaking and requiring occassional top ups so I carried a couple gallons of coolant, Bars leak was added to no avail.
>
>I was carrying 2 gallons of gas as the guage was stuck and gas was sparse.
>
>Then I hit a hidden pot hole which seemed to make the steering a little less accurate.
>
>I tried to wire the rat chewed wiper motor wire to power, while in a storm, I could not get it to do a thing!
>
>The rain got worse and even a bit foggy, I was going cross eyed from watching rain drops run across the window.
>
>Late Sunday evening we made it to Fort Bragg, to rousing cheers when we arrived at the hotel, sad to say? a mini, Jowett, TR6, and a few others did not, 
>at 1.30 am a TR6 that had limped in, died at the edge of town, next morn a car left by flat bed truck?
>
>The final day it poured for the first half of the day which made it scary on the coast road,
>
>at some points I had the TC up to 80 mph and made it back with a few short cuts.
>
>I had a great time, did? 900 plus miles and won that coveted award!
>
>I have attached some emails with links to pics, not many of the Rover but plenty of great cars to look at, the Aston Martin DB6 made it all the way back the 400 miles to LA then broke down!
>
>Again, thanks for all you help everyone!
>
>Cheers, Peter Holbrook #20
>
>
>
>?
>? 
>>Finally got my pictures uploaded onto Flickr last night, including some of the pool shots from Saturday which didn't get uploaded. Comment freely on the pictures and let me know if I got anyone/anything wrong in the captions.
>><http://www.flickr. com/photos/ 68144590@ N00/sets/ 7215762222934691 9/>
>>
>>To echo everyone else, a great time over the weekend. Accolades to the organizers, a big thanks for the participants for a thoroughly enjoyable drive and Fiid William, the co-pilot in the Volvo. Sunday was quite the adventure with the intervention of mother nature in the afternoon. It will provide all sorts of material for the bar visits over the next couple months.
>>
>>Ben Buja
>>SF, CA 
>>
>>--- In californiamelee@ yahoogroups. com, Matt <velomatte at . ..> wrote:
>>>
>>> All,
>>> ?
>>> I have posted an event write up and link to photos on my blog if you want to check it out.? I had fun with y'all and look forward to the next event!
>>> ?
>>> Write up: ?http://giuliettas. com/2009/ 09/16/california -melee-13- event-report/
>>> Pictures: http://giuliettas. com/events/
>>> Matt
>>> 
>>> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
>>> Do You Yahoo!?
>>> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>>> http://mail. yahoo.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>__._,_.___
>>Messages in this topic (11) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic 
>>Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Polls | Members | Calendar 
>>MARKETPLACE
>>Mom Power: Discover the community of moms doing more for their families, for the world and for each other 
>> 
>>Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) 
>>Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional 
>>Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe 
>>Recent Activity
>>	* ?3
>>New MembersVisit Your Group 
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From KG at dolby.com  Wed Sep 23 14:20:33 2009
From: KG at dolby.com (Gundry, Kenneth)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 11:20:33 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W4100FA097534434C3AEC30DEDB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E13CE17@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>

 I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the 1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from an earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50?  I would have thought that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then much less (max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the oils of the period contained zinc additives (and certainly not molybdenum).  Since the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet clutch) of my car is 6 US gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil that I can buy, irrespective of what additives it may or may not contain.

Ken G, San Francisco

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our older cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs Racing oil, Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this need.....note the Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your regular GTX which is for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These oils are widely available in the US ........you have to look harder up here in Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get it just down the road from me .........A little more money but good insurance and recomended by most engine builders and cam manufacturers.....
Just a thought
Bill Robertson


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taking any action based on this message is strictly prohibited.


From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 23 15:40:16 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 19:40:16 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W46E3E0D50952AB76F399A8B8DB0@phx.gbl>


When I rebuilt by 2000TC I started the engine filled with el cheapo, ran it for 10 minutes, then drained it and changed the filter.  Next came Castrol GTX for 500 miles.  Then another drain and filter change.  GTX for the next 1000 miles.  Drain and filter change - thereafter either six monthly or annually according to mileage travelled. 

 

Note: during the rebuild process I used lavish quantities of graphite-based [?] assembly lube on all bearing surfaces.

 

For the record I've used GTX in all my Rovers [P4, P5 & P6] since 1978.
 
> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:28:12 -0600
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
> 
> The engine rebuild and overbore on my 2000TC should be done in the 
> next week or so.
> What oils are you guys/gals using in your cars?
> Any advantage to using a synthetic?
> Should I be using a zinc additive?
> There's still a few things to do before I can get the car registered 
> and on the road.
> I don't anticipate being able to do a proper break in until at least 
> next summer or fall.
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Roy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
 		 	   		  
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From trowzerkoff at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 23 15:56:22 2009
From: trowzerkoff at hotmail.com (Richard Sharpe)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 19:56:22 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] I feel a P4 project coming on...supplier
	recommendations please!
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W46E3E0D50952AB76F399A8B8DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <BAY120-W334CE06C1026C4732992B9B8DB0@phx.gbl>


I'd like to do a complete engine build on a P4 90 and would like to ask the group to recommend parts suppliers. 

 

I have used Wadhams numerous times for P6 engine parts, but wonder whether there are others who can be put on the preferred supplier list.

 

Main criteria are customer responsiveness, excellent stock holding, international sales savvy and ease of access since I'm resident in New Zealand.  Value-added would be internet-based since I really don't want to dick around making international phone calls at three in the morning.

 

Thanks in advance gentlemen!

 

 
 
 		 	   		  
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From Pjemail at aol.com  Wed Sep 23 16:40:01 2009
From: Pjemail at aol.com (Pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 16:40:01 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] I feel a P4 project coming
	on...supplier recom...
Message-ID: <c2e.562c2973.37ebe1a1@aol.com>

I can supply a wide range of parts to overhaul almost all P4 P5 and P6  
engines. Several Rovernet members have done substantial engine re-builds in the 
 last couple of years with my assistance. They have been from all over the 
world,  Canada, USA, Australia etc.
 
Contact me off the Rovernet for details.
 
Regards,
 
Pierre Janusz
RPS (Rover Parts Services)
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 19:18:59 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 23:18:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E13CE17@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
Message-ID: <189885773.4967021253747939886.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Ken, 



The primary area of concern is in the cam and lifter section. More critical on freshly rebuilt engines with new or reground cams. Read the articles and then judge your needs. 



Slats 
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From dirk at vy-tek.com  Wed Sep 23 19:49:52 2009
From: dirk at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 19:49:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Glens Jag ride
In-Reply-To: <mailman.170.1253720167.15387.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <F0166D08E0DD4C60857621CA915041D1@DirkPC2>

Hello All and Glen,

The P5B is actually much closer to the P6B then one might think. Yes the P6
is a bit better in the corners but does not ride as well as the P5B. From a
highway perspective the P5B trumps the P6B both in ride quality and road
handling especially at speeds above 70 mph and is not as subject to being
swept away by a passing truck. The P5 meaning the 6 cylinder version is a
very refined car but without the get up and go of the B. While it will
satisfy you when you close the door with the famous Rover clunk I would
think it is closer to the Jag in a few respects regarding performance. Of
course it has the real wood to prove it!

My 2 cents
Dirk

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:36 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 49

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
	rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. Jaguar vs Rover test drive (Glen Wilson)
   2. Re: No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S (pjemail at aol.com)
   3. Re: Steel wheel repair? (p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk)
   4. Re: Fw: California Melee 13 (BEN RODGERS)
   5. P6B - rubber joiner on fuel filler pipe (Peter Mitchell)
   6. Re: Fw: California Melee 13 (Eric Russell)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 23:46:25 -0400
From: Glen Wilson <rovercar at comcast.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Jaguar vs Rover test drive
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <4AB99A11.9050009 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I had an interesting experience the other day. Someone offered to let me
take their 1967 Jaguar 420 out for a test drive.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_420_and_Daimler_Sovereign_(1966%E2%80%93
69)

This is not the huge 420G but the final iteration of the MKI/MKII/S-type
line. It was a proper LHD model for the States and was in very nice
condition. The interior was excellent, and I have always quite liked the
styling. The driving experience was, however, quite a let down. I suppose
that it might be an excellent highway cruiser, but it felt really dead to
me. It was not at all sporty, and there was no road feel whatsoever. When we
got out at the end of the drive, my wife commented that the closing door
didn't have that satisfying clunk one always gets with a P6 door.

Frankly, I'd much rather drive a nicely turned out 2000TC or Federal 3500S.
The TC rides better, handles better, and the interior is perfectly
comfortable, though the faux wood is some sort of formica in the P6.  I've
driven 1500 miles in a Federal 3500S over the course of three days, and it
just eats up the highway miles and swooshes through high speed turns.

Now, I haven't driven a P5, yet, because I was too timid to take Dirk's blue
beauty out on the public roads. I'm guessing that the P5 may be a little bit
more like the Jag being larger, somewhat less sporty than a
P6 and a somewhat older design, but I'm also guessing the Queen knew what
she was doing when she chose Rover saloons.

I might have to throw the Jag a bone and admit that it was more stylish than
a P6 with its bolt on panels, but that would be about all I would give it.

Glen



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 03:09:59 -0400
From: pjemail at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on
	3500S
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Message-ID: <8CC0A33FF533F2A-5AA4-EFB0 at webmail-m026.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


Dear Albert,



I don't think that anything wrong is happening (unless the recirculating
valve is not operating, so that the unit is set on re-circulation all the
time). When "fresh" air comes in it inevitably gets heated as a result of
coming through or near the engine compartment and/or the heater radiator;
this is very different from the ram air you get on the 2000 TC, and means
that you often feel you want the a/c on at all times.



Regards,



Pierre Janusz


-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 0:57
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No Fresh Air from Louvers on 3500S




I'm still getting warm but not fresh air from the louvers, even when I turn
the lefthand heater dial to the blue area and up from the extreme
counterclockwise AC position and then turn on the fan to various positions.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Albert


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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:56:03 +0100
From: <p6estate at blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <5D35E6689B714BDAB11189E517911695 at SN037535920331>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=response

Hi Roy
There is a company in the West Midlands (UK), called RJ Spratley, they
specialise in Rostyle wheels.
http://www.rjspratley.com/wheels.htm

Speak Soon
Warmest regards
Mark

Mark Gray
Editor, Driving Force
The Rover P6 Club
www.p6club.com
editor at p6club.com
Club line 01902 689975
Mobile 078 333 48030





------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:45:03 -0300
From: "BEN RODGERS" <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13
To: <pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net>,	"The original list for Rover car
	enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP148B20393A88FEAEC12DF995DB0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Peter
           Congratulations on winning the 'Will he Makit' award. You should
be very proud and certainly held up the Rovers end in this rally. Great
photos of so many different cars, The reason your car wasnt photographed
more was probably because you were leading the pack, they mostly
photographed the break downers!!!. I guess you could say I was there as a
fan!!!
                                   Regards  Ben.(irishrover)



*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:07:08 +0800
From: "Peter Mitchell" <peter_m at amnet.net.au>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6B - rubber joiner on fuel filler
	pipe
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <002101ca3c46$6025fcc0$2071f640$@net.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Eric and Roy,

 

Many thanks for your kind advice on the joiner for the fuel filler pipe; I
will chase up these lines of enquiry.

 

The Rover has just had a full rebuild of the transmission as well as a
recent new engine, so I would hate to lose the car to a preventable fire.

 

Kind regards

 

Peter Mitchell

 





E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441) Database version:
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------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 08:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13
To: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net,	"The original list for Rover car
	enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <790547.62994.qm at web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I read this same email, before, on September 19.

Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC) 




________________________________
From: "pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net" <pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 7:28:38 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: California Melee 13


Sent it with the?wrong email and I think it got blocked,


--- On Sat, 9/19/09, Pete Holbrook <petesgarage04 at yahoo.com> wrote:


>From: Pete Holbrook <petesgarage04 at yahoo.com>
>Subject: Fw: California Melee 13
>To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>Date: Saturday, September 19, 2009, 11:06 AM
>
>
>Thanks to everyones help,
>
>I completed the whole rally, I also won the "Willie Makit" award for doing
so under such adverse conditions.
>
>The night before the rally the rad?top tank was still leaking under 
>pressure so I used a whole can of Bondo on it and viola! problem 
>solved,
>
>6.45am the first day?a massive thunder/electrical storm hit northern 
>California, this is a once a decade event and never in September, it 
>poured with rain and thats when I realised I had no wipers,
>
>So I Rainexed the windshield and continued on.
>
>At the start there were other cars with no wipers and quite a few with no
roofs, as you can imagine this added to the fun and break downs, as most of
the British cars did not like moisture, fuses blew and wet?distributors
caused havock.
>
>My first problem was brake fade going down a steep winding road through a
canyon!
>
>I calmly told my copilot that the brakes felt strange as we flew down the
roads.
>
>I was careful with the brakes for the rest of the rally.
>
>Second problem, a deep loud knock at certain power bands between?50 mph 
>to 70 mph, I found I could drive through the Knock, I had put in?30 sae oil
and eventually put in a bottle of "motor honey"
>
>The engine ran fine did not use or leak oil and the electric fan I
fitted?and the six blade Ben sent kept it cool.
>
>The Rainex worked for about?1 hour?at a time, then I had to find a dry spot
to dry things up and add more as the rain was torrential for a while.
>
>At some point on the second day I noticed a loud squeal on cornering, it
came from the front left wheel, I found while looking at it?that an
upper??ball joint was loosening up and making the wheel feel really?loose, I
avoided the position which made the squeal as much as possible.
>
>I had also realised that the large cache of tools and parts in the bottom
of the trunk was making the?car handle like a water tanker, so I moved all
that stuff to the back seat.
>
>Thats when I noticed the rad was now leaking and requiring occassional top
ups so I carried a couple gallons of coolant, Bars leak was added to no
avail.
>
>I was carrying 2 gallons of gas as the guage was stuck and gas was sparse.
>
>Then I hit a hidden pot hole which seemed to make the steering a little
less accurate.
>
>I tried to wire the rat chewed wiper motor wire to power, while in a storm,
I could not get it to do a thing!
>
>The rain got worse and even a bit foggy, I was going cross eyed from
watching rain drops run across the window.
>
>Late Sunday evening we made it to Fort Bragg, to rousing cheers when we 
>arrived at the hotel, sad to say? a mini, Jowett, TR6, and a few others did
not, at 1.30 am a TR6 that had limped in, died at the edge of town, next
morn a car left by flat bed truck?
>
>The final day it poured for the first half of the day which made it 
>scary on the coast road,
>
>at some points I had the TC up to 80 mph and made it back with a few short
cuts.
>
>I had a great time, did? 900 plus miles and won that coveted award!
>
>I have attached some emails with links to pics, not many of the Rover but
plenty of great cars to look at, the Aston Martin DB6 made it all the way
back the 400 miles to LA then broke down!
>
>Again, thanks for all you help everyone!
>
>Cheers, Peter Holbrook #20
>
>
>
>?
>? 
>>Finally got my pictures uploaded onto Flickr last night, including some of
the pool shots from Saturday which didn't get uploaded. Comment freely on
the pictures and let me know if I got anyone/anything wrong in the captions.
>><http://www.flickr. com/photos/ 68144590@ N00/sets/ 7215762222934691 
>>9/>
>>
>>To echo everyone else, a great time over the weekend. Accolades to the
organizers, a big thanks for the participants for a thoroughly enjoyable
drive and Fiid William, the co-pilot in the Volvo. Sunday was quite the
adventure with the intervention of mother nature in the afternoon. It will
provide all sorts of material for the bar visits over the next couple
months.
>>
>>Ben Buja
>>SF, CA
>>
>>--- In californiamelee@ yahoogroups. com, Matt <velomatte at . ..> wrote:
>>>
>>> All,
>>> ?
>>> I have posted an event write up and link to photos on my blog if you
want to check it out.? I had fun with y'all and look forward to the next
event!
>>> ?
>>> Write up: ?http://giuliettas. com/2009/ 09/16/california -melee-13- 
>>> event-report/
>>> Pictures: http://giuliettas. com/events/ Matt
>>> 
>>> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __ Do You 
>>> Yahoo!?
>>> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>>> http://mail. yahoo.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>__._,_.___
>>Messages in this topic (11) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic 
>>Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Polls | Members | 
>>Calendar MARKETPLACE Mom Power: Discover the community of moms doing 
>>more for their families, for the world and for each other
>> 
>>Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via 
>>email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional 
>>Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Recent 
>>Activity
>>	* ?3
>>New MembersVisit Your Group
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End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 49
****************************************




From roverman2 at verizon.net  Thu Sep 24 10:23:28 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 10:23:28 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <BAY120-W46E3E0D50952AB76F399A8B8DB0@phx.gbl>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net>
	<BAY120-W46E3E0D50952AB76F399A8B8DB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D0367F7C-D01C-4614-A201-4B3A692498F3@verizon.net>

Hi All,

Interesting about the Zinc content of modern oils. I have been using  
Shell Rotella 15W/40 in my cars in the Summer. I heard that as it is  
primarily a Diesel oil it contains more additives than regular oils.  
Don't know about its Zinc content though.
Any thoughts?

Dermot Harvey


On Sep 23, 2009, at 3:40 PM, Richard Sharpe wrote:

> When I rebuilt by 2000TC I started the engine filled with el  
> cheapo, ran it for 10 minutes, then drained it and changed the  
> filter.  Next came Castrol GTX for 500 miles.  Then another drain  
> and filter change.  GTX for the next 1000 miles.  Drain and filter  
> change - thereafter either six monthly or annually according to  
> mileage travelled.
>
> Note: during the rebuild process I used lavish quantities of  
> graphite-based [?] assembly lube on all bearing surfaces.
>
> For the record I've used GTX in all my Rovers [P4, P5 & P6] since  
> 1978.
>
> > From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:28:12 -0600
> > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
> >
> > The engine rebuild and overbore on my 2000TC should be done in the
> > next week or so.
> > What oils are you guys/gals using in your cars?
> > Any advantage to using a synthetic?
> > Should I be using a zinc additive?
> > There's still a few things to do before I can get the car registered
> > and on the road.
> > I don't anticipate being able to do a proper break in until at least
> > next summer or fall.
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > Roy
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or  
> no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> Click here to find out more POP access for Hotmail is here!
> _______________________________________________
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> no-mail:
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com  Thu Sep 24 10:41:29 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 16:41:29 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <D0367F7C-D01C-4614-A201-4B3A692498F3@verizon.net>
References: <CE6F05DE-02C1-4707-9BC1-5035E02D6EF0@telusplanet.net><BAY120-W46E3E0D50952AB76F399A8B8DB0@phx.gbl>
	<D0367F7C-D01C-4614-A201-4B3A692498F3@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE30160C4F2@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>

I am very interested in this subject.
 
Which is the name of the addictive?
 
How much do i have to use for ebvery liter or for every oil change?
 
is it also ok to put it in in the old oil in the engine?
 
 
Then, 
 
 
Is it ok to use diesel oil in 200 TC or 2200 TC ?
 
And wich oil, with which specification?
 
I hope someone will answer to these question .
 
I think, with your help, I  could try a cut and paste to make an article, to send to an italian newspaper.
 
Any suggestions?
 
Best regards, thanks in advance, Gianuca.

________________________________

Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Dermot Harvey
Inviato: gioved? 24 settembre 2009 16.23
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine


Hi All, 

Interesting about the Zinc content of modern oils. I have been using Shell Rotella 15W/40 in my cars in the Summer. I heard that as it is primarily a Diesel oil it contains more additives than regular oils. Don't know about its Zinc content though.
Any thoughts?

Dermot Harvey



On Sep 23, 2009, at 3:40 PM, Richard Sharpe wrote:


	When I rebuilt by 2000TC I started the engine filled with el cheapo, ran it for 10 minutes, then drained it and changed the filter.  Next came Castrol GTX for 500 miles.  Then another drain and filter change.  GTX for the next 1000 miles.  Drain and filter change - thereafter either six monthly or annually according to mileage travelled. 
	 
	Note: during the rebuild process I used lavish quantities of graphite-based [?] assembly lube on all bearing surfaces.
	 
	For the record I've used GTX in all my Rovers [P4, P5 & P6] since 1978.
	 
	> From: rababiuk at telusplanet.net
	> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
	> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:28:12 -0600
	> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
	> 
	> The engine rebuild and overbore on my 2000TC should be done in the 
	> next week or so.
	> What oils are you guys/gals using in your cars?
	> Any advantage to using a synthetic?
	> Should I be using a zinc additive?
	> There's still a few things to do before I can get the car registered 
	> and on the road.
	> I don't anticipate being able to do a proper break in until at least 
	> next summer or fall.
	> Thanks for any help.
	> 
	> Roy
	> 
	> _______________________________________________
	> Rovernet mailing list
	> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
	> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
	> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
	> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
	> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
	> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
	> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
	
	
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From slatskars at comcast.net  Thu Sep 24 11:34:00 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 15:34:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE30160C4F2@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <837816045.5196851253806440268.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Gianluca, 



The brand that I mentioned is named Cam Shield and it requires one ounce per quart (liter). The bottle has a built in measuring device that measures out four ounces when tiltled. Diesel oils still had?some of the additives that had been removed from the regular engine oils, but that too is being reduced. 



If you google "oil is killing our engines" you will get some links to the articles. Or, google www.ForeignPartsPositively.com ?. 



Slats 
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Thu Sep 24 12:08:36 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 13:08:36 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
References: <837816045.5196851253806440268.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP15F65149F91B23FDD9DE9795DA0@phx.gbl>

Hi Slats
           All this oil talk has got me concerned!! I use Castrol GTX 20-50 and an additive Lucas Oil Stabilizer in my P6 series two. Neither product lists ingredients and I was in particular looking for this ZDDP? So my question is, am I doing right using the products I have mentioned. Also I'm not sure that Cam Shield is available here?
                                        regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From lewill at ctcweb.net  Thu Sep 24 09:20:10 2009
From: lewill at ctcweb.net (larry)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 07:20:10 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
References: <81B9630A-6C1F-4035-B8AE-13D50F6E7B9D@telusplanet.net>
Message-ID: <002001ca3d38$b5783f60$4001a8c0@hewlett2n8fn74>

Roy, I had some Rostyles wheels repaired in Spokane, WA. The name of the 
company is Watts Automotive Service. I thing they have a website. Shipping 
was expensive going(UPS) but the return shipping by Huber Action Freight was 
very reasonable. I don't know where your located? Regards, Larry
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roy Babiuk" <rababiuk at telusplanet.net>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:20 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?


> Anyone ever have steel wheels repaired?
> I have 8 14 X 5.5 Rostyles. Unfortunately most have been curbed.
> At this time, I have 2 at best that are "good".
> Most have some degree of denting along the rim and one has a small  crack 
> at the rim. I haven't checked any for trueness yet...
> Another looks good around the rim with no dents but after going at it 
> with a wire brush, has quite a bit of pitting inside the rim and  outside 
> of barrel. How much rust is too much?
> I do have sources for replacement wheels, including the Canadian Rover 
> club, but I am stubborn and don't want to give up on these rims  without a 
> fight.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Roy
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/ 



From dmesmg at juno.com  Thu Sep 24 17:13:34 2009
From: dmesmg at juno.com (dmesmg at juno.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:13:34 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet - ] Additives for Oils
Message-ID: <20090924.171334.3364.0.dmesmg@juno.com>

I believe that the oils (sold in the USA at any rate) that have
significantly reduced the ZDDP content are ones with 'SM' in the SAE/API
code circle on the back of the container.  SL and earlier-coded oils have
greater zinc/ZDDP amounts.  I further understand that the diesel engine
oils were approximately 1 yr to 18 months behind the car oil engines in
reducing ZDDP but that most if not all are essentially reduced as well.

Moss Motors sells 4oz bottles of ZDDP Plus, an additive at around $12 US
per bottle.  At my local auto parts store, I also found (based on a
recommendation from a friend who rebuilds older engines) another
alternative called  "Lucas Break-In  Oil Additive with Zinc Plus" in 8oz
bottles for $16 US, with recommendation to use 1/2 bottle per oil change
unless it is a fresh rebuild in which case the entire 8oz was
recommended.

Best regards,
Dan     
____________________________________________________________
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From bwhitten at optusnet.com.au  Thu Sep 24 20:17:05 2009
From: bwhitten at optusnet.com.au (bwhitten at optusnet.com.au)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 10:17:05 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
Message-ID: <200909250017.n8P0H5Ix011126@mail08.syd.optusnet.com.au>

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From slatskars at comcast.net  Fri Sep 25 02:36:47 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 06:36:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R:  Oil for rebuilt 4 cyl engine
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP15F65149F91B23FDD9DE9795DA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2000158999.5539451253860607544.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>



Ben, 



A few other have piped in with the correct answers. You have to read the code on the oil can such a?SM etc. Google www.camshield.com , they do list distributors and prices. It was a fairly gradual reduction. If you are not driving the car much and gently, you should be good to go. There is somewhat of a residue that remains. It is mostly when breaking in a new cam and lifters that the problem really comes on strong. It was failure of new cams in rebuilt engines that alerted Keith Ansell to the problem. 



Slats 
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From DevlinS at bp.com  Fri Sep 25 10:11:10 2009
From: DevlinS at bp.com (Devlin, Stewart (Contractor))
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 15:11:10 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E13CE17@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
References: <BAY119-W4100FA097534434C3AEC30DEDB0@phx.gbl>
	<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E13CE17@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
Message-ID: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>

Hi Ken & others,

I use Castrol Classic 20/50 in my 16/50.  It is not particularly cheap,
especially as most of it ends up on the garage floor, but I called the
guy that runs Castrol Classic oils and spoke to him.  I told him the
original recommendations in 'the bible', both the Rover Number 12 oil
from the earliest editions and the Wakefield Castrol "A.A." from the
later editions and that is what he told me was the right stuff.  I know
he was wanting to sell it but he could have tried to sell me a number of
the oils that they make.

Regards

Stewart

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
Sent: 23 September 2009 19:21
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil


 I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the
1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from an
earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50?  I would have thought
that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then much less
(max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the oils of the
period contained zinc additives (and certainly not molybdenum).  Since
the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet clutch) of my car is 6 US
gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil that I can buy, irrespective
of what additives it may or may not contain.

Ken G, San Francisco

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not
your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc
formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our older
cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs Racing oil,
Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this need.....note the
Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your regular GTX which is
for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These oils are widely
available in the US ........you have to look harder up here in
Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get it just
down the road from me .........A little more money but good insurance
and recomended by most engine builders and cam manufacturers.....
Just a thought
Bill Robertson


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From britcarnut at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 27 12:49:08 2009
From: britcarnut at yahoo.com (Geoff K)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 09:49:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Nice '67 2000TC on San Francisco
	Craigslist
Message-ID: <81664.96911.qm@web36208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This looks like a pretty nice car at a reasonable price.  The seller has quite a sense of humor as well.  Does this belong to anyone on Rovernet?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1386039425.html

Geoff

"This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be of no possible service to him."
- William Lyon Phelps


      


From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Sun Sep 27 14:46:39 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:46:39 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Nice '67 2000TC on San
	FranciscoCraigslist
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP7424A1C70CA9F722EE45AC95D70@phx.gbl>

Sound like its Peter Holbrook's car, he just completed the California melee 
with no wipers!!
                              Regards Ben

*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, 
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geoff K" <britcarnut at yahoo.com>
To: "RoverNet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 1:49 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Nice '67 2000TC on San 
FranciscoCraigslist


> This looks like a pretty nice car at a reasonable price.  The seller has 
> quite a sense of humor as well.  Does this belong to anyone on Rovernet?
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1386039425.html
>
> Geoff
>
> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be 
> of no possible service to him."
> - William Lyon Phelps
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 



From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 27 14:59:48 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 11:59:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Nice '67 2000TC on San
	FranciscoCraigslist
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP7424A1C70CA9F722EE45AC95D70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <930206.68479.qm@web83006.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yes! its mine I was going to sell this one to fund the SC project?

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, BEN RODGERS <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca> wrote:


From: BEN RODGERS <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Nice '67 2000TC on San FranciscoCraigslist
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 11:46 AM


Sound like its Peter Holbrook's car, he just completed the California melee with no wipers!!
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ???Regards Ben

*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,? HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff K" <britcarnut at yahoo.com>
To: "RoverNet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 1:49 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Nice '67 2000TC on San FranciscoCraigslist


> This looks like a pretty nice car at a reasonable price.? The seller has quite a sense of humor as well.? Does this belong to anyone on Rovernet?
> 
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1386039425.html
> 
> Geoff
> 
> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be of no possible service to him."
> - William Lyon Phelps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 


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From fjcumberland at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 27 15:58:23 2009
From: fjcumberland at yahoo.com (Jim Cumberland)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 12:58:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Nice '67 2000TC on San
	FranciscoCraigslist
In-Reply-To: <930206.68479.qm@web83006.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <930206.68479.qm@web83006.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <209672.22616.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Brilliant description!




________________________________
From: "pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net" <pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 2:59:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Nice '67 2000TC on San FranciscoCraigslist


Yes! its mine I was going to sell this one to fund the SC project?

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, BEN RODGERS <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca> wrote:


>From: BEN RODGERS <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca>
>Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Fw: Nice '67 2000TC on San FranciscoCraigslist
>To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 11:46 AM
>
>
>Sound like its Peter Holbrook's car, he just completed the California melee with no wipers!!
>                             Regards Ben
>
>*************
>Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
>then
>Visit our website and blog at
>www.irishroversbooks.com
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff K" <britcarnut at yahoo.com>
>To: "RoverNet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 1:49 PM
>Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Nice '67 2000TC on San FranciscoCraigslist
>
>
>> This looks like a pretty nice car at a
> reasonable price.  The seller has quite a sense of humor as well.  Does this belong to anyone on Rovernet?
>> 
>> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1386039425.html
>> 
>> Geoff
>> 
>> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be of no possible service to him."
>> - William Lyon Phelps
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old
> Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> 
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Rovernet mailing list
>Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> 
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca  Tue Sep 29 10:13:13 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:13:13 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50@phx.gbl>

Forwarding this on to a wider group.
       Regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, 
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
To: BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: Rover question


Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone that 
wants one.

Barry J. Grant
Central Accounting
Office of the Comptroller
Phone: 506-453-3996
Fax: 506-444-4099
Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca

*************



From phing at videotron.ca  Tue Sep 29 11:31:34 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:31:34 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601ca4119$f0aba8d0$d202fa70$@ca>

Ben 
 There was ap3 75 4 light  for sale in Annapolis Royal . Ns a couple of
years ago 
Cheers 
 Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:13 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3

Forwarding this on to a wider group.
       Regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges, 
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
To: BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: Rover question


Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone that 
wants one.

Barry J. Grant
Central Accounting
Office of the Comptroller
Phone: 506-453-3996
Fax: 506-444-4099
Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca

*************


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From dirk at vy-tek.com  Tue Sep 29 14:56:36 2009
From: dirk at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:56:36 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P3s for sale
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1254240004.6275.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <1865236723AC472CB03DAD47332DED18@DirkPC2>

 Hello Barry and Ben,

P3s have come up about once every 2 years or so. Ther come up quite
regularly in the UK on EBay and the RSR for sale section. If a P3 is high on
the list and RHD is not an issue then I would consider importing a example
from the UK. It will cost less then $1500 USD from Southampton to the east
coast of Canada or the USA. EBay UK has several right now. Also check
ClassiccarUK and prewarcarUK as other places that they show up frequently.
Patrick and I stand ready to offer plenty of unsolicited advice should you
not require it.

Dirk

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 54

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
	rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	rovernet-request at rovernet.ca

You can reach the person managing the list at
	rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."


Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. wanted ROVER P3 (BEN RODGERS)
   2. Re: wanted ROVER P3 (Patrick Hiron)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:13:13 -0300
From: "BEN RODGERS" <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Forwarding this on to a wider group.
       Regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
To: BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: Rover question


Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone that
wants one.

Barry J. Grant
Central Accounting
Office of the Comptroller
Phone: 506-453-3996
Fax: 506-444-4099
Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca

*************




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:31:34 -0400
From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <000601ca4119$f0aba8d0$d202fa70$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Ben
 There was ap3 75 4 light  for sale in Annapolis Royal . Ns a couple of
years ago Cheers  Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:13 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3

Forwarding this on to a wider group.
       Regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
To: BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: Rover question


Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone that
wants one.

Barry J. Grant
Central Accounting
Office of the Comptroller
Phone: 506-453-3996
Fax: 506-444-4099
Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca

*************


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 54
****************************************




From phing at videotron.ca  Tue Sep 29 15:43:01 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 15:43:01 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P3s for sale
In-Reply-To: <1865236723AC472CB03DAD47332DED18@DirkPC2>
References: <mailman.5.1254240004.6275.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
	<1865236723AC472CB03DAD47332DED18@DirkPC2>
Message-ID: <000501ca413d$0e3bc8d0$2ab35a70$@ca>

Hi . 
Unsolicited Advice Alert!!! 
Remember the P3 is a monocoque structure from the front rear spring hangers
back .All the rear end of this heavy car is supported on a structure made
from steel sheet of highly dubious quality, tied together with a horizontal
tube holding the back ends of the rear springs .
One reason for the P3s rarity is the  tendency for the rear structure  to
dissolve into rust, depositing the back axle into the boot Restoring the
back end of a P3 would be a complex , costly job !!Rover went back to a full
chassis of bridge like proportions for the P4
The P3 is one car I would not buy sight unseen from 3000 miles away on E Bay
[ or from the vicar's wife ].I would want to have it up on a hoist and spend
a lot of time with a magnet , screwdriver and a toffee hammer looking for
those elegant structural bodges perfected in the UK .
I would also check the total cost of shipping from the UK , including dock
charges at both ends  , cleaning , paper work etc . $1500 from the UK is
much cheaper than anything I have found when considering importing cars.
Unless you consider old cars to be self propelled sculpture, You also need
to consider what you would DO with the car . I spent a long time rebuilding
my P3 " Isambard Kingdom Brunel " [ which I found in a garage in DC ]only to
find that I was very uncomfortable driving it in modern traffic . A P3 needs
more road to stop and change direction than most selfish hogs in SUVs will
give you. So , with regret IKB was sold off and now lives in a rural old car
collection , whence it is trailered to shows. 
Cheers 
 Patrick  -----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Dirk Burrowes
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 2:57 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P3s for sale

 Hello Barry and Ben,

P3s have come up about once every 2 years or so. Ther come up quite
regularly in the UK on EBay and the RSR for sale section. If a P3 is high on
the list and RHD is not an issue then I would consider importing a example
from the UK. It will cost less then $1500 USD from Southampton to the east
coast of Canada or the USA. EBay UK has several right now. Also check
ClassiccarUK and prewarcarUK as other places that they show up frequently.
Patrick and I stand ready to offer plenty of unsolicited advice should you
not require it.

Dirk

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 54

Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
	rovernet at rovernet.ca

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	rovernet-request at rovernet.ca

You can reach the person managing the list at
	rovernet-owner at rovernet.ca

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Rovernet digest..."


Please edit your digest reply by changing the subject line to the topic to
which you are referring.

Today's Topics:

   1. wanted ROVER P3 (BEN RODGERS)
   2. Re: wanted ROVER P3 (Patrick Hiron)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:13:13 -0300
From: "BEN RODGERS" <irishrover1 at sympatico.ca>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Forwarding this on to a wider group.
       Regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
To: BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: Rover question


Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone that
wants one.

Barry J. Grant
Central Accounting
Office of the Comptroller
Phone: 506-453-3996
Fax: 506-444-4099
Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca

*************




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:31:34 -0400
From: Patrick Hiron <phing at videotron.ca>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'"
	<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <000601ca4119$f0aba8d0$d202fa70$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Ben
 There was ap3 75 4 light  for sale in Annapolis Royal . Ns a couple of
years ago Cheers  Patrick 

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:13 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3

Forwarding this on to a wider group.
       Regards Ben (irishrover)
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS Ganges,
Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
To: BEN RODGERS
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: Rover question


Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone that
wants one.

Barry J. Grant
Central Accounting
Office of the Comptroller
Phone: 506-453-3996
Fax: 506-444-4099
Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca

*************


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/




------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/

End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 15, Issue 54
****************************************



_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 29 15:44:24 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:44:24 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P3 for sale
Message-ID: <BAY119-W18AA1827C104F69CA545DCDED50@phx.gbl>


Hi Ben .........

 

                  Mine is for sale .....i think.........LOL..........still not sure if i want to part with it but i don't see myself getting it out of storage anytime soon..........i have a distinct lack of space here

Get him to contact me for pictures and such

Bill Robertson
 		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live? Messenger. 
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621
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From KG at dolby.com  Tue Sep 29 17:36:37 2009
From: KG at dolby.com (Gundry, Kenneth)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 14:36:37 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL]  Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
Message-ID: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>

 Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think multigrades are a post-WWII development, so the oils suggested by car manufacturers up to the late 1940s would have been "single-grade" whose viscosity is much more variable with temperature.  What I am suggesting is that any modern 20/50, while very likely suitable, cannot be equivalent to the Rover Number 12 or Castrol AA suggested in the owner's manual for the Rover 16/50.

Related in a sort of way, can anyone explain why modern engines seem to employ thinner (less viscous) oils than older ones?  What has changed?

Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Devlin, Stewart (Contractor)
Sent: Friday, 25 September, 2009 7:11 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

Hi Ken & others,

I use Castrol Classic 20/50 in my 16/50.  It is not particularly cheap, especially as most of it ends up on the garage floor, but I called the guy that runs Castrol Classic oils and spoke to him.  I told him the original recommendations in 'the bible', both the Rover Number 12 oil from the earliest editions and the Wakefield Castrol "A.A." from the later editions and that is what he told me was the right stuff.  I know he was wanting to sell it but he could have tried to sell me a number of the oils that they make.

Regards

Stewart

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
Sent: 23 September 2009 19:21
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil


 I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the 1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from an earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50?  I would have thought that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then much less (max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the oils of the period contained zinc additives (and certainly not molybdenum).  Since the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet clutch) of my car is 6 US gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil that I can buy, irrespective of what additives it may or may not contain.

Ken G, San Francisco

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our older cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs Racing oil, Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this need.....note the Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your regular GTX which is for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These oils are widely available in the US ........you have to look harder up here in Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get it just down the road from me .........A little more money but good insurance and recomended by most engine builders and cam manufacturers.....
Just a thought
Bill Robertson


________________________________

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From giannid at bigpond.com  Tue Sep 29 17:51:47 2009
From: giannid at bigpond.com (Gianni D'Ortenzio)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 07:51:47 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] wanted ROVER P3
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP728D6C35605BE63E0C060995D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1FE706B6-010E-4C64-B221-C6DAF1ACA612@bigpond.com>

I have decided to let my four light go as I can't get around to  
finishing it...... but I am in Australia!!!

Cheers Gianni
Gianni D'Ortenzio
1948 P3 4 light
1949 P3 6 light
1969 P5BC
1971 P6B
2004 Landrover Defender



On 30/09/2009, at 12:13 AM, BEN RODGERS wrote:

> Forwarding this on to a wider group.
>      Regards Ben (irishrover)
> *************
> Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs,  HMS  
> Ganges, Royal Navy?
> then
> Visit our website and blog at
> www.irishroversbooks.com
> ----- Original Message ----- From: Grant, Barry (OoC/BdC)
> To: BEN RODGERS
> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 10:01 AM
> Subject: Rover question
>
>
> Hi Ben, do you happen to know of any P3's for sale?  I know someone  
> that wants one.
>
> Barry J. Grant
> Central Accounting
> Office of the Comptroller
> Phone: 506-453-3996
> Fax: 506-444-4099
> Email: Barry.Grant at gnb.ca
>
> *************
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no- 
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/



From DevlinS at bp.com  Tue Sep 29 17:53:00 2009
From: DevlinS at bp.com (Devlin, Stewart (Contractor))
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 22:53:00 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
References: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
	<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
Message-ID: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F1FC@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>

 

I am no expert but if I get a chance tomorrow I'll call the guy at
Castrol Classic Oils and ask him these very questions.

Stewart


-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
Sent: 29 September 2009 22:37
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil


 Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think multigrades are a
post-WWII development, so the oils suggested by car manufacturers up to
the late 1940s would have been "single-grade" whose viscosity is much
more variable with temperature.  What I am suggesting is that any modern
20/50, while very likely suitable, cannot be equivalent to the Rover
Number 12 or Castrol AA suggested in the owner's manual for the Rover
16/50.

Related in a sort of way, can anyone explain why modern engines seem to
employ thinner (less viscous) oils than older ones?  What has changed?

Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Devlin, Stewart (Contractor)
Sent: Friday, 25 September, 2009 7:11 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

Hi Ken & others,

I use Castrol Classic 20/50 in my 16/50.  It is not particularly cheap,
especially as most of it ends up on the garage floor, but I called the
guy that runs Castrol Classic oils and spoke to him.  I told him the
original recommendations in 'the bible', both the Rover Number 12 oil
from the earliest editions and the Wakefield Castrol "A.A." from the
later editions and that is what he told me was the right stuff.  I know
he was wanting to sell it but he could have tried to sell me a number of
the oils that they make.

Regards

Stewart

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
Sent: 23 September 2009 19:21
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil


 I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the
1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from an
earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50?  I would have thought
that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then much less
(max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the oils of the
period contained zinc additives (and certainly not molybdenum).  Since
the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet clutch) of my car is 6 US
gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil that I can buy, irrespective
of what additives it may or may not contain.

Ken G, San Francisco

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not
your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc
formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our older
cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs Racing oil,
Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this need.....note the
Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your regular GTX which is
for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These oils are widely
available in the US ........you have to look harder up here in
Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get it just
down the road from me .........A little more money but good insurance
and recomended by most engine builders and cam manufacturers.....
Just a thought
Bill Robertson


________________________________

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This message (including any attachments) may contain confidential
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From kkinard at att.net  Tue Sep 29 18:35:19 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:35:19 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F1FC@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
References: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>	<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>
	<CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F1FC@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
Message-ID: <4AC28BA7.9010108@att.net>

Devlin, Stewart (Contractor) wrote:
>  Hi Guys,
>   
I'm no expert either, but yes, multi-vis oils are a post wwII 
development.  Before multi-viscosity oil was introduced, manufacturers 
frequently recommended different viscosities for summer and winter.  
Rover may not have done this because UK weather is relatively uniform 
(I'm going to hear from some folks on that one).  Generally speaking the 
internal clearances and operating temperatures dictate the weight of oil 
specified.  Higher operating temperature or larger clearances require 
higher viscosity oil.  Modern engines are built to very exacting 
tolerances and employ high pressure pumps and can use the thinner oils 
which transmit heat more efficiently (up to 50% of engine cooling is 
through the oil). 

Another post war development is the high detergent content of oil.  To 
break down gum, varnish and sludge, oil now contains various  detergents 
and other substances (such as the ZDDP we have recently discussed) which 
prevent scuffing and extend the interval between changes.  It has 
usually been recommended that you not use a high detergent oil in 
antique engines unless they have been rebuilt or have a known service 
history that included high detergent oil.

A case in point is our beloved Rover V8 which was designed as a low RPM 
one use, throwaway engine.  It always required frequent oil changes and 
high viscosity oil and still only developed modest working pressure.  
They will run acceptably even when badly worn and showing little or no 
oil pressure at idle.  If you rebuild one, you must reduce ALL the 
clearances or limit oil pressure to the rocker gear when replacing 
bearings (always replacing the cam bearings).

OK.  That's my two cents.

Roverly,
Kent K.
> I am no expert but if I get a chance tomorrow I'll call the guy at
> Castrol Classic Oils and ask him these very questions.
>
> Stewart
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
> Sent: 29 September 2009 22:37
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
>
>  Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think multigrades are a
> post-WWII development, so the oils suggested by car manufacturers up to
> the late 1940s would have been "single-grade" whose viscosity is much
> more variable with temperature.  What I am suggesting is that any modern
> 20/50, while very likely suitable, cannot be equivalent to the Rover
> Number 12 or Castrol AA suggested in the owner's manual for the Rover
> 16/50.
>
> Related in a sort of way, can anyone explain why modern engines seem to
> employ thinner (less viscous) oils than older ones?  What has changed?
>
> Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Devlin, Stewart (Contractor)
> Sent: Friday, 25 September, 2009 7:11 AM
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
> Hi Ken & others,
>
> I use Castrol Classic 20/50 in my 16/50.  It is not particularly cheap,
> especially as most of it ends up on the garage floor, but I called the
> guy that runs Castrol Classic oils and spoke to him.  I told him the
> original recommendations in 'the bible', both the Rover Number 12 oil
> from the earliest editions and the Wakefield Castrol "A.A." from the
> later editions and that is what he told me was the right stuff.  I know
> he was wanting to sell it but he could have tried to sell me a number of
> the oils that they make.
>
> Regards
>
> Stewart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
> Sent: 23 September 2009 19:21
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
>
>  I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the
> 1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from an
> earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50?  I would have thought
> that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then much less
> (max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the oils of the
> period contained zinc additives (and certainly not molybdenum).  Since
> the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet clutch) of my car is 6 US
> gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil that I can buy, irrespective
> of what additives it may or may not contain.
>
> Ken G, San Francisco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
> Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
> The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not
> your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc
> formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our older
> cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs Racing oil,
> Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this need.....note the
> Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your regular GTX which is
> for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These oils are widely
> available in the US ........you have to look harder up here in
> Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get it just
> down the road from me .........A little more money but good insurance
> and recomended by most engine builders and cam manufacturers.....
> Just a thought
> Bill Robertson
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> Faster Hotmail access now on the new MSN homepage.
> <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677399> 
>
> -----------------------------------------
> This message (including any attachments) may contain confidential
> information intended for a specific individual and purpose.  If you are
> not the intended recipient, delete this message.  If you are not the
> intended recipient, disclosing, copying, distributing, or taking any
> action based on this message is strictly prohibited.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
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> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>   



From DevlinS at bp.com  Wed Sep 30 07:57:46 2009
From: DevlinS at bp.com (Devlin, Stewart (Contractor))
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 12:57:46 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <4AC28BA7.9010108@att.net>
References: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>	<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net><CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F1FC@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
	<4AC28BA7.9010108@att.net>
Message-ID: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F202@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>

 
Dear Ken, Kent and others,

I have just talked to the guy at Castrol Classic Oils.  First of all, my
mistake, I have been buying 20/50 from him but that was for my P3, the
oil that I put in the 16/50, and have bought again for this winter's oil
change is Classic XL30.  Blame old age creeping in.

The straight oils are designed for cars without fine filters, just gauze
sump filters like the 16/50 has, the particles in the oil drop out in
the sump.  The multigrades keep the particles in suspension until the
oil reaches the filter where the filter strips them out.  If you put a
20/50 in a car that should have a straight oil then the particles build
up in the oil until it starts to cause damage.  Both are low detergent,
he does not recommend putting high detergent oils in an old engine
unless it has just been stripped, thoroughly cleaned out and rebuilt.

Basically he is saying that people are putting whatever they like in
their engines and that's ok if it suits them, any oil is probably fine
as long as it is changed often enough but to replace Wakefield AA he
recommends Classic XL30.  As they would say on the BBC, other sae 30
oils are available, but make sure it is low detergent.

See
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=90141
12&contentId=7027140 for more detailed info.

Regards to all,

Stewart




-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: 29 September 2009 23:35
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

Devlin, Stewart (Contractor) wrote:
>  Hi Guys,
>   
I'm no expert either, but yes, multi-vis oils are a post wwII
development.  Before multi-viscosity oil was introduced, manufacturers
frequently recommended different viscosities for summer and winter.  
Rover may not have done this because UK weather is relatively uniform
(I'm going to hear from some folks on that one).  Generally speaking the
internal clearances and operating temperatures dictate the weight of oil
specified.  Higher operating temperature or larger clearances require
higher viscosity oil.  Modern engines are built to very exacting
tolerances and employ high pressure pumps and can use the thinner oils
which transmit heat more efficiently (up to 50% of engine cooling is
through the oil). 

Another post war development is the high detergent content of oil.  To
break down gum, varnish and sludge, oil now contains various  detergents
and other substances (such as the ZDDP we have recently discussed) which
prevent scuffing and extend the interval between changes.  It has
usually been recommended that you not use a high detergent oil in
antique engines unless they have been rebuilt or have a known service
history that included high detergent oil.

A case in point is our beloved Rover V8 which was designed as a low RPM
one use, throwaway engine.  It always required frequent oil changes and
high viscosity oil and still only developed modest working pressure.  
They will run acceptably even when badly worn and showing little or no
oil pressure at idle.  If you rebuild one, you must reduce ALL the
clearances or limit oil pressure to the rocker gear when replacing
bearings (always replacing the cam bearings).

OK.  That's my two cents.

Roverly,
Kent K.
> I am no expert but if I get a chance tomorrow I'll call the guy at 
> Castrol Classic Oils and ask him these very questions.
>
> Stewart
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
> Sent: 29 September 2009 22:37
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
>
>  Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think multigrades are a 
> post-WWII development, so the oils suggested by car manufacturers up 
> to the late 1940s would have been "single-grade" whose viscosity is 
> much more variable with temperature.  What I am suggesting is that any

> modern 20/50, while very likely suitable, cannot be equivalent to the 
> Rover Number 12 or Castrol AA suggested in the owner's manual for the 
> Rover 16/50.
>
> Related in a sort of way, can anyone explain why modern engines seem 
> to employ thinner (less viscous) oils than older ones?  What has
changed?
>
> Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Devlin, Stewart (Contractor)
> Sent: Friday, 25 September, 2009 7:11 AM
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
> Hi Ken & others,
>
> I use Castrol Classic 20/50 in my 16/50.  It is not particularly 
> cheap, especially as most of it ends up on the garage floor, but I 
> called the guy that runs Castrol Classic oils and spoke to him.  I 
> told him the original recommendations in 'the bible', both the Rover 
> Number 12 oil from the earliest editions and the Wakefield Castrol 
> "A.A." from the later editions and that is what he told me was the 
> right stuff.  I know he was wanting to sell it but he could have tried

> to sell me a number of the oils that they make.
>
> Regards
>
> Stewart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
> Sent: 23 September 2009 19:21
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
>
>  I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the

> 1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from 
> an earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50?  I would have 
> thought that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then 
> much less (max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the

> oils of the period contained zinc additives (and certainly not 
> molybdenum).  Since the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet 
> clutch) of my car is 6 US gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil 
> that I can buy, irrespective of what additives it may or may not
contain.
>
> Ken G, San Francisco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
> Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
>
> The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not

> your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc 
> formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our 
> older cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs 
> Racing oil, Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this 
> need.....note the Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your 
> regular GTX which is for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These 
> oils are widely available in the US ........you have to look harder up

> here in Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get 
> it just down the road from me .........A little more money but good 
> insurance and recomended by most engine builders and cam
manufacturers.....
> Just a thought
> Bill Robertson
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> Faster Hotmail access now on the new MSN homepage.
> <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677399>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> This message (including any attachments) may contain confidential 
> information intended for a specific individual and purpose.  If you 
> are not the intended recipient, delete this message.  If you are not 
> the intended recipient, disclosing, copying, distributing, or taking 
> any action based on this message is strictly prohibited.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 30 08:33:54 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:33:54 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F202@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
References: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
	<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net><CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F1FC@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
	<4AC28BA7.9010108@att.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W55F625A9DA333613FDE050DED40@phx.gbl>



 Thanks for the very good info !!! 

 

 
> Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 12:57:46 +0100
> From: DevlinS at bp.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
> 
> 
> Dear Ken, Kent and others,
> 
> I have just talked to the guy at Castrol Classic Oils. First of all, my
> mistake, I have been buying 20/50 from him but that was for my P3, the
> oil that I put in the 16/50, and have bought again for this winter's oil
> change is Classic XL30. Blame old age creeping in.
> 
> The straight oils are designed for cars without fine filters, just gauze
> sump filters like the 16/50 has, the particles in the oil drop out in
> the sump. The multigrades keep the particles in suspension until the
> oil reaches the filter where the filter strips them out. If you put a
> 20/50 in a car that should have a straight oil then the particles build
> up in the oil until it starts to cause damage. Both are low detergent,
> he does not recommend putting high detergent oils in an old engine
> unless it has just been stripped, thoroughly cleaned out and rebuilt.
> 
> Basically he is saying that people are putting whatever they like in
> their engines and that's ok if it suits them, any oil is probably fine
> as long as it is changed often enough but to replace Wakefield AA he
> recommends Classic XL30. As they would say on the BBC, other sae 30
> oils are available, but make sure it is low detergent.
> 
> See
> http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=90141
> 12&contentId=7027140 for more detailed info.
> 
> Regards to all,
> 
> Stewart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> On Behalf Of Kent Kinard
> Sent: 29 September 2009 23:35
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
> 
> Devlin, Stewart (Contractor) wrote:
> > Hi Guys,
> > 
> I'm no expert either, but yes, multi-vis oils are a post wwII
> development. Before multi-viscosity oil was introduced, manufacturers
> frequently recommended different viscosities for summer and winter. 
> Rover may not have done this because UK weather is relatively uniform
> (I'm going to hear from some folks on that one). Generally speaking the
> internal clearances and operating temperatures dictate the weight of oil
> specified. Higher operating temperature or larger clearances require
> higher viscosity oil. Modern engines are built to very exacting
> tolerances and employ high pressure pumps and can use the thinner oils
> which transmit heat more efficiently (up to 50% of engine cooling is
> through the oil). 
> 
> Another post war development is the high detergent content of oil. To
> break down gum, varnish and sludge, oil now contains various detergents
> and other substances (such as the ZDDP we have recently discussed) which
> prevent scuffing and extend the interval between changes. It has
> usually been recommended that you not use a high detergent oil in
> antique engines unless they have been rebuilt or have a known service
> history that included high detergent oil.
> 
> A case in point is our beloved Rover V8 which was designed as a low RPM
> one use, throwaway engine. It always required frequent oil changes and
> high viscosity oil and still only developed modest working pressure. 
> They will run acceptably even when badly worn and showing little or no
> oil pressure at idle. If you rebuild one, you must reduce ALL the
> clearances or limit oil pressure to the rocker gear when replacing
> bearings (always replacing the cam bearings).
> 
> OK. That's my two cents.
> 
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
> > I am no expert but if I get a chance tomorrow I'll call the guy at 
> > Castrol Classic Oils and ask him these very questions.
> >
> > Stewart
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> > [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
> > Sent: 29 September 2009 22:37
> > To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
> >
> >
> > Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think multigrades are a 
> > post-WWII development, so the oils suggested by car manufacturers up 
> > to the late 1940s would have been "single-grade" whose viscosity is 
> > much more variable with temperature. What I am suggesting is that any
> 
> > modern 20/50, while very likely suitable, cannot be equivalent to the 
> > Rover Number 12 or Castrol AA suggested in the owner's manual for the 
> > Rover 16/50.
> >
> > Related in a sort of way, can anyone explain why modern engines seem 
> > to employ thinner (less viscous) oils than older ones? What has
> changed?
> >
> > Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> > [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of Devlin, Stewart (Contractor)
> > Sent: Friday, 25 September, 2009 7:11 AM
> > To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> > Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
> >
> > Hi Ken & others,
> >
> > I use Castrol Classic 20/50 in my 16/50. It is not particularly 
> > cheap, especially as most of it ends up on the garage floor, but I 
> > called the guy that runs Castrol Classic oils and spoke to him. I 
> > told him the original recommendations in 'the bible', both the Rover 
> > Number 12 oil from the earliest editions and the Wakefield Castrol 
> > "A.A." from the later editions and that is what he told me was the 
> > right stuff. I know he was wanting to sell it but he could have tried
> 
> > to sell me a number of the oils that they make.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Stewart
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> > [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of Gundry, Kenneth
> > Sent: 23 September 2009 19:21
> > To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
> >
> >
> > I realize that this whole string concerns primarily cars built in the
> 
> > 1950s and later, but does it apply to "low performance" engines from 
> > an earlier era, specifically to my 1925 Rover 16/50? I would have 
> > thought that the pressures between moving metal surfaces were then 
> > much less (max rpm about 3000), and in any case I would doubt that the
> 
> > oils of the period contained zinc additives (and certainly not 
> > molybdenum). Since the total oil capacity (engine + gearbox + wet 
> > clutch) of my car is 6 US gallons, I am using the cheapest 20-50 oil 
> > that I can buy, irrespective of what additives it may or may not
> contain.
> >
> > Ken G, San Francisco
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca 
> > [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
> > On Behalf Of Bill Robertson
> > Sent: Tuesday, 22 September, 2009 5:50 PM
> > To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
> >
> > The use of Zinc additives such as ZDDP is an alternative but maybe not
> 
> > your best option........Try to get an oil with the PROPER zinc 
> > formulation.......Meaning an oil with an older formulation for our 
> > older cars...........Kendall GT1, Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs 
> > Racing oil, Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 are all oils that fill this 
> > need.....note the Castrol is denoted with the CLASSIC ......not your 
> > regular GTX which is for the newer cars with lees zinc..........These 
> > oils are widely available in the US ........you have to look harder up
> 
> > here in Canada........i use Brad Penn Racing 20W50 because i can get 
> > it just down the road from me .........A little more money but good 
> > insurance and recomended by most engine builders and cam
> manufacturers.....
> > Just a thought
> > Bill Robertson
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> >
> > Faster Hotmail access now on the new MSN homepage.
> > <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677399>
> >
> > -----------------------------------------
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> > information intended for a specific individual and purpose. If you 
> > are not the intended recipient, delete this message. If you are not 
> > the intended recipient, disclosing, copying, distributing, or taking 
> > any action based on this message is strictly prohibited.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
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> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
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> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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> >
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> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From kkinard at att.net  Wed Sep 30 08:59:37 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 07:59:37 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F202@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
References: <CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA1570E0AAF@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>	<05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E4EB039@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net><CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F1FC@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>	<4AC28BA7.9010108@att.net>
	<CB789FF3A7FFD944A990968C777DA15720F202@bp1clais002.bp1.ad.bp.com>
Message-ID: <4AC35639.3020206@att.net>

And there you have it.  You have added to my understanding of oil.  Thanks.
-Kent K.

Devlin, Stewart (Contractor) wrote:
>  
> Dear Ken, Kent and others,
>
> I have just talked to the guy at Castrol Classic Oils.  First of all, my
> mistake, I have been buying 20/50 from him but that was for my P3, the
> oil that I put in the 16/50, and have bought again for this winter's oil
> change is Classic XL30.  Blame old age creeping in.
>
> The straight oils are designed for cars without fine filters, just gauze
> sump filters like the 16/50 has, the particles in the oil drop out in
> the sump.  The multigrades keep the particles in suspension until the
> oil reaches the filter where the filter strips them out.  If you put a
> 20/50 in a car that should have a straight oil then the particles build
> up in the oil until it starts to cause damage.  Both are low detergent,
> he does not recommend putting high detergent oils in an old engine
> unless it has just been stripped, thoroughly cleaned out and rebuilt.
>
> Basically he is saying that people are putting whatever they like in
> their engines and that's ok if it suits them, any oil is probably fine
> as long as it is changed often enough but to replace Wakefield AA he
> recommends Classic XL30.  As they would say on the BBC, other sae 30
> oils are available, but make sure it is low detergent.
>
> See
> http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=90141
> 12&contentId=7027140 for more detailed info.
>
> Regards to all,
>
> Stewart
>   



From KG at dolby.com  Wed Sep 30 12:24:58 2009
From: KG at dolby.com (Gundry, Kenneth)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:24:58 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL]  Rover oil
In-Reply-To: <4AC35639.3020206@att.net>
Message-ID: <05BB196AB3DA6C4BBE11AB6C957581FE1E5A74F2@sfo-exch-01.dolby.net>

Dear Stewart et al.

Interesting but I think inconsistent with what I was told when I first took over my Rover 16/50.  I have no idea what oil was in it when I received it, but the engine died shortly thereafter (cracked exhaust valve), and while I was obtaining replacements (it took several months) I drained the sump and did lots of other things.  When I refilled, I put in a 10/30, and was dissatisfied with the oil pressure once the engine got hot.  From one or other old car forum, I learned that oils of the 1920s were thicker than modern 30-weight (much thicker cold, of course, but also thicker hot), so recently I have put in 20/50.  I am not overly worried about the detergent aspect since the engine was rebuilt in the 1990s and presumably gunk that had built up over the years was removed.  By the way, I see no way to introduce a modern-style filter, since putting it in place of the existing "bird-catchers" (essentially fine chicken-wire) would obstruct the return to the sump and make the present oil pump starvation more frequent.

(For those who might be amused, Stewart and I have what are possibly the only two currently running Rover 16/50s in the world.)

Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Wednesday, 30 September, 2009 6:00 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover oil

And there you have it.  You have added to my understanding of oil.  Thanks.
-Kent K.

Devlin, Stewart (Contractor) wrote:
>  
> Dear Ken, Kent and others,
>
> I have just talked to the guy at Castrol Classic Oils.  First of all, 
> my mistake, I have been buying 20/50 from him but that was for my P3, 
> the oil that I put in the 16/50, and have bought again for this 
> winter's oil change is Classic XL30.  Blame old age creeping in.
>
> The straight oils are designed for cars without fine filters, just 
> gauze sump filters like the 16/50 has, the particles in the oil drop 
> out in the sump.  The multigrades keep the particles in suspension 
> until the oil reaches the filter where the filter strips them out.  If 
> you put a 20/50 in a car that should have a straight oil then the 
> particles build up in the oil until it starts to cause damage.  Both 
> are low detergent, he does not recommend putting high detergent oils 
> in an old engine unless it has just been stripped, thoroughly cleaned out and rebuilt.
>
> Basically he is saying that people are putting whatever they like in 
> their engines and that's ok if it suits them, any oil is probably fine 
> as long as it is changed often enough but to replace Wakefield AA he 
> recommends Classic XL30.  As they would say on the BBC, other sae 30 
> oils are available, but make sure it is low detergent.
>
> See
> http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=901
> 41 12&contentId=7027140 for more detailed info.
>
> Regards to all,
>
> Stewart
>   


_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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-----------------------------------------
This message (including any attachments) may contain confidential
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