>
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Oct 4 01:04:25 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 01:04:25 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 (Mark III/'67): Shock Absorber
Options
Message-ID: <c5a.55c84e1b.37f986d9@aol.com>
Hi Kent and Fred, et al.,
Got Medically Grounded for a week, two Saturday's ago and
missed seeing the F111's going "Downtown" in Brisbane for the last time.
Spent a day in Hospital.
I am back at work now. Some of my posts are a bit flakey sometimes but
about six mornings ago ( I have been trying to finish this since then ) in
a very long boring one and a half hour drive across town in my Semi, past
all the new tunnel construction, I was thinking about stuff I have posted
recently about P5 Suspenders. The Penny Dropped...
In my high speed youth, @17, I had a couple of P5's over the pit. Just
vague memories now. The bloke I took over from in the "Pit" (he started his
own Shop) taught me how to do the P6's "different" front end and also
mentioned that the P5's torsion bar is different, looks like a torsion bar setup
but it is "different". Was it enclosed in a tube? How was the ride height
set? I can't remember. I do remember "Rising Rate" being mentioned but that
was a bit of a buzz word - term at the time. A bloke up at Brookvale (in
Sydney) was building race cars (Bowins) with rising rate suspension. They had
these oddball rose jointed linkages and extra rods. The bloke ( I am pretty he
was John Joyce) had worked at Lotus on the 72's and got the idea there.
So, a few more days later, is the P5's ride height set properly ? Has
whatever it is about the torsion bar that is different, been set up properly
? That is the first thing.
Next the shocks. I thought that Pedders would have P5 shocks in their
online catalogue. They don't. I bet the boys have supplied a shock "that
fits". Something with around the same stroke and installed length that fits
but with valving for a totally different car. Certainly a much heavier car
and there is probably the main cause of your hard ride. The original shock
almost certainly was a single acting, rebound only type and now you may have a
double acting type. Torsion bars can cope with single acting shocks much
better than coil springs as they don't have all those coils between the ends
that are free to oscillate.
Gas Shocks. The main reason for the pressurised gas is to make the
operation of the shock more consistent and reliable. No oxidisation of the oil
and minimum "Aeration". Also the boiling point of the oil is increased. The
operation of the shock is just so much more stable with the gas. The minor
lifting effect of the gas is minimal and is not intended to raise the car.
Hope this is of some help.
Regards,
Mark Jones.
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Oct 6 14:51:14 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 11:51:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
Message-ID: <947626.9384.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks to Roland, one of our veteran Rovernet members, we have a new YouTube movie on our?page:
http://www.roverclub.ca/p6utubemovies.htm
(Hint: it's at the end of the list)
The topic is how a Rover Final Drive works.
(OK. It was a movie made by an American auto maker to illustrate how a differential works.? Be patient. It starts unusually but makes the point well and gets to the mechnical, technical bits, near the end.)
Eric
Webmaster, RCCC
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Oct 6 17:35:37 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 08:35:37 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
In-Reply-To: <947626.9384.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <947626.9384.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <070E4F650E5C4628BBA3687EBDABFC2C@Vista>
Did you know...
that it was J.K. Starley who invented the diff and the freewheel?
Both were fundamental in tricycle development.
This led to the Rover Safety Bicycle, which is still the pattern used in
bicycle design (largely thanks to the UCI).
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: "INTERNATIONAL Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 5:51 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
Thanks to Roland, one of our veteran Rovernet members, we have a new YouTube
movie on our page:
http://www.roverclub.ca/p6utubemovies.htm
(Hint: it's at the end of the list)
The topic is how a Rover Final Drive works.
(OK. It was a movie made by an American auto maker to illustrate how a
differential works. Be patient. It starts unusually but makes the point well
and gets to the mechnical, technical bits, near the end.)
Eric
Webmaster, RCCC
"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From ianalice at shaw.ca Tue Oct 6 21:20:13 2009
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 18:20:13 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
In-Reply-To: <070E4F650E5C4628BBA3687EBDABFC2C@Vista>
References: <947626.9384.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<070E4F650E5C4628BBA3687EBDABFC2C@Vista>
Message-ID: <8D76F5DF78F94641A5B513336F9D36FE@IandAlicePC>
Free wheeling , yes, but the differential was initiated by a Frenchman, if
my memory serves me. Ian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
> Did you know...
> that it was J.K. Starley who invented the diff and the freewheel?
>
> Both were fundamental in tricycle development.
> This led to the Rover Safety Bicycle, which is still the pattern used in
> bicycle design (largely thanks to the UCI).
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> To: "INTERNATIONAL Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 5:51 AM
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
>
>
> Thanks to Roland, one of our veteran Rovernet members, we have a new
> YouTube
> movie on our page:
> http://www.roverclub.ca/p6utubemovies.htm
>
> (Hint: it's at the end of the list)
>
> The topic is how a Rover Final Drive works.
>
> (OK. It was a movie made by an American auto maker to illustrate how a
> differential works. Be patient. It starts unusually but makes the point
> well
> and gets to the mechnical, technical bits, near the end.)
>
> Eric
> Webmaster, RCCC
> "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.420 / Virus Database: 270.14.4/2417 - Release Date: 10/06/09
06:50:00
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Tue Oct 6 22:13:24 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 19:13:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
Message-ID: <672338.51150.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi,
We have a new Rover advertised on the?RCCC website:
http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
This time it's a great looking 1967 Rover 3 Litre Mk III.
Using hotlinks a person can access a web picture album and a description.
Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Oct 6 22:20:57 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 13:20:57 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
In-Reply-To: <8D76F5DF78F94641A5B513336F9D36FE@IandAlicePC>
References: <947626.9384.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com><070E4F650E5C4628BBA3687EBDABFC2C@Vista>
<8D76F5DF78F94641A5B513336F9D36FE@IandAlicePC>
Message-ID: <AC64ED6BCF0A4E0F94BAE1FF67A2624C@Vista>
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/563657/James-Starley
He was the first to use it with a chain drive it appears, possibly in a
final drive.
Onesiphore Pecqueur seems to have made the differential gear.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alice and Ian Potts" <ianalice at shaw.ca>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
> Free wheeling , yes, but the differential was initiated by a Frenchman, if
> my memory serves me. Ian
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
>
>
>> Did you know...
>> that it was J.K. Starley who invented the diff and the freewheel?
>>
>> Both were fundamental in tricycle development.
>> This led to the Rover Safety Bicycle, which is still the pattern used in
>> bicycle design (largely thanks to the UCI).
>>
>> PVS
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Eric Russell" <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
>> To: "INTERNATIONAL Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 5:51 AM
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
>>
>>
>> Thanks to Roland, one of our veteran Rovernet members, we have a new
>> YouTube
>> movie on our page:
>> http://www.roverclub.ca/p6utubemovies.htm
>>
>> (Hint: it's at the end of the list)
>>
>> The topic is how a Rover Final Drive works.
>>
>> (OK. It was a movie made by an American auto maker to illustrate how a
>> differential works. Be patient. It starts unusually but makes the point
>> well
>> and gets to the mechnical, technical bits, near the end.)
>>
>> Eric
>> Webmaster, RCCC
>> "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.420 / Virus Database: 270.14.4/2417 - Release Date: 10/06/09
> 06:50:00
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From esailer at snet.net Tue Oct 6 22:35:42 2009
From: esailer at snet.net (EDWARD SAILER)
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 19:35:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] My 100 turned 50 today
Message-ID: <197665.84920.qm@web80503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
According to my British Motor Industry Heritage Certificate my "1961" P4 100 was bulit on October 6 , 1959.? So today she's 50 years old!
?
Ted Sailer
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From denlet at wanadoo.fr Wed Oct 7 12:43:43 2009
From: denlet at wanadoo.fr (denlet)
Date: Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:43:43 +0200
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 3
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1254931223.24555.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <C6F291DF.75DA%denlet@wanadoo.fr>
Bonjour,
C'est bien un fran?ais Onesiphore Pecqueur qui inventa en 1827 un
diff?rentiel pour une machine ? vapeur.
Le petit film apporte de bonnes pr?cisions sur la fa?on dont fonctionne un
diff?rentiel.
denis
Yes, it's a frenchman Onesiphore Pecqueur who made a differential for the
first time in 1827 for a steam machine.
Thank's for the little film, it's good to better know how do a differential.
(more complicated for me to explain something in english!!)
denis
> Free wheeling , yes, but the differential was initiated by a Frenchman, if
> my memory serves me. Ian
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Netspace" <vmitps at netspace.net.au>
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] New (for us) YouTube video
>
>
>> Did you know...
>> that it was J.K. Starley who invented the diff and the freewheel?
>>
>> Both were fundamental in tricycle development.
>> This led to the Rover Safety Bicycle, which is still the pattern used in
>> bicycle design (largely thanks to the UCI).
>>
>> PVS
>>
From jobyna at earthlink.net Wed Oct 7 12:48:59 2009
From: jobyna at earthlink.net (jobyna at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 12:48:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 1968 Rover 2000TC RHD For Sale In NY
Message-ID: <28937252.1254934139558.JavaMail.root@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Hello everyone,
I'm just coming to the realization that I'm never going to get to the restoration of my Rover P6 RHD car. I bought it about 5 years ago and have only driven it a few times...so I need to pass it on to someone who will treat the car the was I have not been able to. Car is located in Chester, NY (about one hour northwest of NYC) She is running but not drivable at this time. If anyone out there is looking to add another Rover to their garage, contact me off the list at jobyna at earthlink.net or phone 845-610-3559 and I can give you more details or send photos.
Thanks,
Phil Evans
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Fri Oct 9 11:22:39 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 08:22:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P%B needed
Message-ID: <176590.89639.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi folks,
Here is the substance of a note I received this morning.? This car would have to be shipped to the Middle East (NOT Chicago :-)
"I am looking for a? P5B ROVER LEFT HAND DRIVE PLEASE CANE YOU LOOK TO SEE IF THERE ORE ANDY LEFT HAND DRIVES P5B ROVERS MY CELL NO? 052-3273898"
?
Eric
PS.? I would forward the whole email is someone has a P5B for sale.
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
From bsaunders at firstva.com Fri Oct 9 12:25:17 2009
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (bsaunders at firstva.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 12:25:17 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P%B needed
In-Reply-To: <176590.89639.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <176590.89639.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000301ca48fd$1ae85540$7df8f804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
Hi Eric,
I know where there are two Rover P5s (one LHD and one RHD) 3L coupe's with
out engines. They could be made onto a nice P5B LHD (not original) if you
are interested.
Ben Saunders
434.842.3667 USA
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Eric Russell
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 11:23 AM
To: INTERNATIONAL Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P%B needed
Hi folks,
Here is the substance of a note I received this morning.? This car would
have to be shipped to the Middle East (NOT Chicago :-)
"I am looking for a? P5B ROVER LEFT HAND DRIVE PLEASE CANE YOU LOOK TO SEE
IF THERE ORE ANDY LEFT HAND DRIVES P5B ROVERS MY CELL NO? 052-3273898"
?
Eric
PS.? I would forward the whole email is someone has a P5B for sale.
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo!
Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From dburrowes at vy-tek.com Fri Oct 9 12:51:33 2009
From: dburrowes at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 12:51:33 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Message-ID: <20091009125133.28560@web2.nyc1.bluetie.com>
Needed LHD P5b must be shipped to Fitchburg Mass.
There must be hundreds in back yards and barns all over the North America
Ha Ha
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Date: 10/09/2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 5
Note: Original message sent as attachment
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Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 12:00:13 -0400
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Fri Oct 9 14:32:15 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 11:32:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P%B needed
In-Reply-To: <000301ca48fd$1ae85540$7df8f804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
References: <176590.89639.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<000301ca48fd$1ae85540$7df8f804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
Message-ID: <235527.50966.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Thanks for contributing.
However, since this guy would probably like it shipped to the Middle East (the REAL Middle East), I think he wants it to be a turn-key operation. Perhaps Dirk would be interested - ROFLMHO
Eric
"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
----- Original Message ----
From: "bsaunders at firstva.com" <bsaunders at firstva.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Fri, October 9, 2009 9:25:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P%B needed
Hi Eric,
I know where there are two Rover P5s (one LHD and one RHD) 3L coupe's with
out engines. They could be made onto a nice P5B LHD (not original) if you
are interested.
Ben Saunders
434.842.3667 USA
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Eric Russell
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 11:23 AM
To: INTERNATIONAL Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P%B needed
Hi folks,
Here is the substance of a note I received this morning. This car would
have to be shipped to the Middle East (NOT Chicago :-)
"I am looking for a P5B ROVER LEFT HAND DRIVE PLEASE CANE YOU LOOK TO SEE
IF THERE ORE ANDY LEFT HAND DRIVES P5B ROVERS MY CELL NO 052-3273898"
Eric
PS. I would forward the whole email is someone has a P5B for sale.
"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo!
Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
From phing at videotron.ca Fri Oct 9 14:40:24 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 14:40:24 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
In-Reply-To: <20091009125133.28560@web2.nyc1.bluetie.com>
References: <20091009125133.28560@web2.nyc1.bluetie.com>
Message-ID: <000601ca490f$f70e0a30$e52a1e90$@ca>
Hi Dirk
Are you starting a P5B stud farm ? Remember this is a Rover / Buick hybrid ; so they are probably sterile , like mules !!
Cheers
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Dirk Burrowes
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 12:52 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Needed LHD P5b must be shipped to Fitchburg Mass.
There must be hundreds in back yards and barns all over the North America
Ha Ha
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Date: 10/09/2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 5
Note: Original message sent as attachment
From mrpink703 at yahoo.com Sat Oct 10 08:06:45 2009
From: mrpink703 at yahoo.com (George Phelps)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 05:06:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] FREE P6 PARTS IN MD
Message-ID: <220663.13141.qm@web52602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Me again.? I still have a bunch of parts, hoods, roofs, doors, interior bits, rims, driveline and brake parts(no engine parts).? Will someone?with a pick up come and get them, please !?
This is the last call, they are on their way to the dump.? Hate to do it, but I have gotten the eviction notice from the owners of the barn?where they are stored!
Did I mention - Free!
Cheers
George
From robertime at cavtel.net Sat Oct 10 08:26:58 2009
From: robertime at cavtel.net (ROBERT HEIMERL)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 08:26:58 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] FREE P6 PARTS IN MD
In-Reply-To: <220663.13141.qm@web52602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <220663.13141.qm@web52602.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3708a2530910100526n46cbb3b6ja5e592484e4d4ab6@mail.gmail.com>
Hi George,
I contacted you some time ago re: SD1 parts. Am I correct in thinking that
they are gone, only P6 parts left, as described? If so, good luck finding a
home for them (Dirk in MA is usually interested in such things, but distance
may be a factor). Thanks, Robert H. Arlington, VA
On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 8:06 AM, George Phelps <mrpink703 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Me again. I still have a bunch of parts, hoods, roofs, doors, interior
> bits, rims, driveline and brake parts(no engine parts). Will someone with a
> pick up come and get them, please !
>
> This is the last call, they are on their way to the dump. Hate to do it,
> but I have gotten the eviction notice from the owners of the barn where they
> are stored!
>
> Did I mention - Free!
> Cheers
> George
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sat Oct 10 11:54:13 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 15:54:13 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover parts
Message-ID: <BAY119-W75DCAC36B69051A656627DECA0@phx.gbl>
Hi all.........
I'm parting out my brothers 1969 Rover 2000TC this weekend .......Car is good daily driver but he has no room as he lost his house and garage to divorce.....i also have no room ...Since the chances of selling it aren't good quickly i'll part it......If anyone needs anything.....let me know.......The base unit is good although the rear bump stops are gone.....I'm keeping the engine and rostyle wheels ...rest is up for grabs........car has air conditioning ....not working though but interior parts are good too.(sorry seats are gone to a friend)........I'm in Oshawa Ontario so i don't expect anyone will be able to pick things up but let me know .......Its going to be gone by next week
Cheers
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
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From dburrowes at vy-tek.com Sat Oct 10 12:43:09 2009
From: dburrowes at vy-tek.com (Dirk Burrowes)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 12:43:09 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 6
Message-ID: <20091010124309.25402@web4.nyc1.bluetie.com>
Hi Patrick,
Well you know Rovers are like potatoe chips you can't just have one! or two or twenty five and so on
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Date: 10/10/2009 11:56 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 6
Note: Original message sent as attachment
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From jess_rainey at yahoo.ca Sat Oct 10 20:51:35 2009
From: jess_rainey at yahoo.ca (Jess Rainey)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 17:51:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] no electrics good battery - help please!
Message-ID: <302167.22437.qm@web65708.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
This is on a 1968 2000 TC wired for the north american market.? The battery is good.? I can measure 12 volts to the point where the battery cable attahces to the stater solenoid, but?all car electrics are dead nevertheless.? The lights will not turn on, the hazard indicator will not work, the dash lights will not illuminate when the key is turned to pre-ignition, the engine will not crank.? The entire system is dead.
I was able to get the lights to operate by attaching a electric line from the battery to the input blade on the side lamps?switch on the dash.? The headlight switch then activated the headlights as it should.? When I attempted to measure the output from the wire that goes onto the input of the side lamps switch on the dash, I had no reading.? I'm confused as to why I could get a 12 volt reading at the point where the battery cable attaches to the starter solenoid, but nothing?from the wire that inputs into the dash?side lamps light switch?as the wire comes directly off the input cable from the battery on the solenoid passing up the main harness on the left hand side of the engine bay.
I was in the process of trouble shooting an ongoing problem where the head lights and dash lights would not fully illuminate unless the engine was at a driving speed RPM.? The battery has been recently replaced.? The voltage regulator has been replaced twice.? The battery has always been fully recharged after operation as the engine would crank at a normal speed even after sitting for one to two weeks.
?
My dad was driving the vehicle about 8 months ago when everything went dead on him like this.? Fortunately, he was able to restart it.
?
Is it possible that the starter solenoid is somehow grounding out the entire electrical system?? It's the one bit on the car that's never been replaced.
?
Rovernetters, is there someone out there with any sage advice?? It would be most welcome.
?
Very frustrated in Silverton, Oregon.
Jess Rainey
?
?
__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.
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From vern at inkspotco.com Sun Oct 11 00:17:49 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:17:49 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] no electrics good battery - help
please!
In-Reply-To: <302167.22437.qm@web65708.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <302167.22437.qm@web65708.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <64CADA8B-D6FE-47F3-A58B-6A76439EA266@inkspotco.com>
If this is a solenoid behind the RH headlight (as it should be), all
the power in the car comes off a large push on (Lucar) connector on
the solenoid. Three possibilities: bad solenoid, broken wire or bad
connection at the solenoid (its a large brown lead, though 68 will
still have a fabric cover to carry the colour and that may be perished
leaving just a black wire. Regardless, it is the next largest size
after the battery and starter cables.. The third possibility is, of
course, the thing I haven't thought of ;-)
Yours
Vern
On 2009-10-10, at 5:51 PM, Jess Rainey wrote:
> This is on a 1968 2000 TC wired for the north american market. The
> battery is good. I can measure 12 volts to the point where the
> battery cable attahces to the stater solenoid, but all car electrics
> are dead nevertheless. The lights will not turn on, the hazard
> indicator will not work, the dash lights will not illuminate when
> the key is turned to pre-ignition, the engine will not crank. The
> entire system is dead.
> I was able to get the lights to operate by attaching a electric line
> from the battery to the input blade on the side lamps switch on the
> dash. The headlight switch then activated the headlights as it
> should. When I attempted to measure the output from the wire that
> goes onto the input of the side lamps switch on the dash, I had no
> reading. I'm confused as to why I could get a 12 volt reading at
> the point where the battery cable attaches to the starter solenoid,
> but nothing from the wire that inputs into the dash side lamps light
> switch as the wire comes directly off the input cable from the
> battery on the solenoid passing up the main harness on the left hand
> side of the engine bay.
> I was in the process of trouble shooting an ongoing problem where
> the head lights and dash lights would not fully illuminate unless
> the engine was at a driving speed RPM. The battery has been
> recently replaced. The voltage regulator has been replaced twice.
> The battery has always been fully recharged after operation as the
> engine would crank at a normal speed even after sitting for one to
> two weeks.
>
> My dad was driving the vehicle about 8 months ago when everything
> went dead on him like this. Fortunately, he was able to restart it.
>
> Is it possible that the starter solenoid is somehow grounding out
> the entire electrical system? It's the one bit on the car that's
> never been replaced.
>
> Rovernetters, is there someone out there with any sage advice? It
> would be most welcome.
>
> Very frustrated in Silverton, Oregon.
> Jess Rainey
>
>
>
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From vern at inkspotco.com Sun Oct 11 00:32:30 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 21:32:30 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] no electrics good battery - help
please!
In-Reply-To: <64CADA8B-D6FE-47F3-A58B-6A76439EA266@inkspotco.com>
References: <302167.22437.qm@web65708.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
<64CADA8B-D6FE-47F3-A58B-6A76439EA266@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <47BD40FE-C742-4E75-BB36-19201E928181@inkspotco.com>
See, that didn't take long. There are in fact two feeds, one to the
voltage reg and then to the ignition switch (the big wire) and a
smaller one that runs to the side lamp switch. Doesn't matter though,
the fact that both wires terminate at the solenoid and both systems
are dead narrows the focus considerably. My money is on corrosion of
the connections.
Yours
Vern
On 2009-10-10, at 9:17 PM, Vern Klukas wrote:
> If this is a solenoid behind the RH headlight (as it should be), all
> the power in the car comes off a large push on (Lucar) connector on
> the solenoid. Three possibilities: bad solenoid, broken wire or bad
> connection at the solenoid (its a large brown lead, though 68 will
> still have a fabric cover to carry the colour and that may be
> perished leaving just a black wire. Regardless, it is the next
> largest size after the battery and starter cables.. The third
> possibility is, of course, the thing I haven't thought of ;-)
>
> Yours
> Vern
>
> On 2009-10-10, at 5:51 PM, Jess Rainey wrote:
>
>> This is on a 1968 2000 TC wired for the north american market. The
>> battery is good. I can measure 12 volts to the point where the
>> battery cable attahces to the stater solenoid, but all car
>> electrics are dead nevertheless. The lights will not turn on, the
>> hazard indicator will not work, the dash lights will not illuminate
>> when the key is turned to pre-ignition, the engine will not crank.
>> The entire system is dead.
>> I was able to get the lights to operate by attaching a electric
>> line from the battery to the input blade on the side lamps switch
>> on the dash. The headlight switch then activated the headlights as
>> it should. When I attempted to measure the output from the wire
>> that goes onto the input of the side lamps switch on the dash, I
>> had no reading. I'm confused as to why I could get a 12 volt
>> reading at the point where the battery cable attaches to the
>> starter solenoid, but nothing from the wire that inputs into the
>> dash side lamps light switch as the wire comes directly off the
>> input cable from the battery on the solenoid passing up the main
>> harness on the left hand side of the engine bay.
>> I was in the process of trouble shooting an ongoing problem where
>> the head lights and dash lights would not fully illuminate unless
>> the engine was at a driving speed RPM. The battery has been
>> recently replaced. The voltage regulator has been replaced twice.
>> The battery has always been fully recharged after operation as the
>> engine would crank at a normal speed even after sitting for one to
>> two weeks.
>>
>> My dad was driving the vehicle about 8 months ago when everything
>> went dead on him like this. Fortunately, he was able to restart it.
>>
>> Is it possible that the starter solenoid is somehow grounding out
>> the entire electrical system? It's the one bit on the car that's
>> never been replaced.
>>
>> Rovernetters, is there someone out there with any sage advice? It
>> would be most welcome.
>>
>> Very frustrated in Silverton, Oregon.
>> Jess Rainey
>>
>>
>>
>> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From jess_rainey at yahoo.ca Sun Oct 11 01:01:38 2009
From: jess_rainey at yahoo.ca (Jess Rainey)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 22:01:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] no electrics good battery - help
please!
In-Reply-To: <47BD40FE-C742-4E75-BB36-19201E928181@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <986068.53049.qm@web65712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Vern,? you were bang on.? I just came back from taking the car for a test drive.? It turned out there was corrosion on the lead from the battery at the solenoid.? I didn't look at this very closely until I cottoned onto the fact that voltage doesn't necessarily mean the presence of proper current.? Anyway, problem solved as well as previous problem of head lamps and dash lights dimming at idle.? The battery simply wasn't providing enough current because of the corrosion.? And then everything went dead.
It's good to be back in?the driver's seat!
cheers,
Jess
--- On Sat, 10/10/09, Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com> wrote:
From: Vern Klukas <vern at inkspotco.com>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] no electrics good battery - help please!
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Received: Saturday, October 10, 2009, 9:32 PM
See, that didn't take long. There are in fact two feeds, one to the voltage reg and then to the ignition switch (the big wire) and a smaller one that runs to the side lamp switch. Doesn't matter though, the fact that both wires terminate at the solenoid and both systems are dead narrows the focus considerably. My money is on corrosion of the connections.
Yours
Vern
On 2009-10-10, at 9:17 PM, Vern Klukas wrote:
If this is a solenoid behind the RH headlight (as it should be), all the power in the car comes off a large push on (Lucar) connector on the solenoid. Three possibilities: bad solenoid, broken wire or bad connection at the solenoid (its a large brown lead, though 68 will still have a fabric cover to carry the colour and that may be perished leaving just a black wire. Regardless, it is the next largest size after the battery and starter cables.. The third possibility is, of course, the thing I haven't thought of ;-)
Yours
Vern
On 2009-10-10, at 5:51 PM, Jess Rainey wrote:
This is on a 1968 2000 TC wired for the north american market.? The battery is good.? I can measure 12 volts to the point where the battery cable attahces to the stater solenoid, but?all car electrics are dead nevertheless.? The lights will not turn on, the hazard indicator will not work, the dash lights will not illuminate when the key is turned to pre-ignition, the engine will not crank.? The entire system is dead.
I was able to get the lights to operate by attaching a electric line from the battery to the input blade on the side lamps?switch on the dash.? The headlight switch then activated the headlights as it should.? When I attempted to measure the output from the wire that goes onto the input of the side lamps switch on the dash, I had no reading.? I'm confused as to why I could get a 12 volt reading at the point where the battery cable attaches to the starter solenoid, but nothing?from the wire that inputs into the dash?side lamps light switch?as the wire comes directly off the input cable from the battery on the solenoid passing up the main harness on the left hand side of the engine bay.
I was in the process of trouble shooting an ongoing problem where the head lights and dash lights would not fully illuminate unless the engine was at a driving speed RPM.? The battery has been recently replaced.? The voltage regulator has been replaced twice.? The battery has always been fully recharged after operation as the engine would crank at a normal speed even after sitting for one to two weeks.
?
My dad was driving the vehicle about 8 months ago when everything went dead on him like this.? Fortunately, he was able to restart it.
?
Is it possible that the starter solenoid is somehow grounding out the entire electrical system?? It's the one bit on the car that's never been replaced.
?
Rovernetters, is there someone out there with any sage advice?? It would be most welcome.
?
Very frustrated in Silverton, Oregon.
Jess Rainey
?
?
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
-----Inline Attachment Follows-----
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
__________________________________________________________________
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http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Sun Oct 11 02:22:41 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 23:22:41 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
Message-ID: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
Hi All
Anyone have a fuel tank sender unit for a Federal 3500S? I am in danger of having to drive the car soon and right now have no fuel tank which I am told may be an issue with the starting/running procedures.
cheers
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
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From ABoasberg at webtv.net Sun Oct 11 08:51:23 2009
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 05:51:23 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Sparks from Ignition Site
In-Reply-To: Jess Rainey <jess_rainey@yahoo.ca>'s message of Sat, 10 Oct
2009 17:51:35 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <12711-4AD1D4CB-3586@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net>
When I turned the key to start my 1970 3500S, sparks flew out of the
ignition site.
No smoke and the key did not get hot.
The car started.
It hasn't happened again in the past week.
Any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it?
Thanks.
Albert
From bsaunders at firstva.com Sun Oct 11 09:48:51 2009
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (bsaunders at firstva.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 09:48:51 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003801ca4a79$91b90340$ccfcf804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
I may know of a friend that I gave two P6's to that may have a sender to
part with. I will ask him.
Ben Saunders
_____
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 2:23 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
Hi All
Anyone have a fuel tank sender unit for a Federal 3500S? I am in danger of
having to drive the car soon and right now have no fuel tank which I am told
may be an issue with the starting/running procedures.
cheers
Adrian
_____
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up
<http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/> now.
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From j_radcliffe at hotmail.com Sun Oct 11 10:08:29 2009
From: j_radcliffe at hotmail.com (James Radcliffe)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 10:08:29 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S fuel tank sender.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.33.1255265485.12816.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.33.1255265485.12816.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT105-W1532E8E650A3B4552D37458EC90@phx.gbl>
ernet_rovernet.ca/attachments/20091010/71c49d04/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 23:22:41 -0700
> From: Adrian McDonald <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
> To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Hi All
>
>
>
> Anyone have a fuel tank sender unit for a Federal 3500S? I am in danger of having to drive the car soon and right now have no fuel tank which I am told may be an issue with the starting/running procedures.
>
>
>
> cheers
>
> Adrian
>
If you have a bad sender then you could get it fixed at:
http://www.tristarrradiator.com/Products%20Page/Products%20Page.html
Otherwise I think Garret Bouroque may have one or Mike Buonanduci, 802 439 5815 might have one. I tried to find a sender for my 2000 TC a couple of years ago, and they had one for a 3500. I ended up fixing the sender that I had.
James.
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft?s powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
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From bsaunders at firstva.com Sun Oct 11 12:14:01 2009
From: bsaunders at firstva.com (bsaunders at firstva.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:14:01 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001ca4a8d$da03b280$69faf804@domain.specialtydrapery.com>
Adrian,
I took a look at a tank I had out of a 71 TC which has the same sender but
the one I got out of it is beyond use. Have you checked the continuity and
resistance to make sure it is the sender?
Good old Lucas
Ben
_____
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 2:23 AM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
Hi All
Anyone have a fuel tank sender unit for a Federal 3500S? I am in danger of
having to drive the car soon and right now have no fuel tank which I am told
may be an issue with the starting/running procedures.
cheers
Adrian
_____
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up
<http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/> now.
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From Pjemail at aol.com Sun Oct 11 12:28:31 2009
From: Pjemail at aol.com (Pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 12:28:31 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
Message-ID: <d38.594e5a33.380361af@aol.com>
The 2000 and 2000 TC P6 models do NOT have the same tank sender unit as
the V8 ones. This is because they have a smaller tank than the 3500 and
3500S.
Regards,
Pierre Janusz
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From nathanobuch at yahoo.com Sun Oct 11 12:59:26 2009
From: nathanobuch at yahoo.com (Nathan Obuch)
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 09:59:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Sparks from Ignition Site
Message-ID: <845087.58549.qm@web110312.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Albert,
I would guess that if if everything is working, the ignition switch itself just has a bad contact which was arcing under load. Just a guess, but I suspect that replacing the switch itself would solve your issues.
Nathan
--- On Sun, 10/11/09, Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net> wrote:
> From: Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Sparks from Ignition Site
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, October 11, 2009, 7:51 AM
> When I turned the key to start my
> 1970 3500S, sparks flew out of the
> ignition site.
>
> No smoke and the key did not get hot.
>
> The car started.
>
> It hasn't happened again in the past week.
>
> Any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
From geffandjulie at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 12:42:17 2009
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:42:17 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
In-Reply-To: <000601ca490f$f70e0a30$e52a1e90$@ca>
References: <20091009125133.28560@web2.nyc1.bluetie.com>
<000601ca490f$f70e0a30$e52a1e90$@ca>
Message-ID: <022401ca4b5a$f63e5360$e2bafa20$@net>
I think there were very few, if any, LHD P5B exported to the US. The V8
first went into the '67 model, and all the smog and safety requirements
began in 68. Good luck!
AvMedSafe
Geff and Julie McCarthy
677 NW Melinda Ave
Portland OR 97210
503-241-8468
503-799-3809 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Patrick Hiron
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 11:40 AM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Hi Dirk
Are you starting a P5B stud farm ? Remember this is a Rover / Buick hybrid
; so they are probably sterile , like mules !!
Cheers
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Dirk Burrowes
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 12:52 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Needed LHD P5b must be shipped to Fitchburg Mass.
There must be hundreds in back yards and barns all over the North America
Ha Ha
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Date: 10/09/2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 5
Note: Original message sent as attachment
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From roverman2 at verizon.net Mon Oct 12 13:12:42 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:12:42 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500S Fuel TAnk Sender
In-Reply-To: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU129-W11C1B4F547E1B8E8A5D4029EC90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <74B16398-D6DD-41FB-9FC9-AFA227C79310@verizon.net>
Hi Adrian,
I have brand new fuel tank sending units for the 3500S made by
Smiths. Please contact me directly at roverman2 at verizon.net.
Thanks,
Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics
On Oct 11, 2009, at 2:22 AM, Adrian McDonald wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Anyone have a fuel tank sender unit for a Federal 3500S? I am in
> danger of having to drive the car soon and right now have no fuel
> tank which I am told may be an issue with the starting/running
> procedures.
>
> cheers
> Adrian
>
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up now.
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From veetwinrider at yahoo.com Mon Oct 12 21:21:29 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:21:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Message-ID: <454738.4370.qm@web180516.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
They should just buy my P5. Then they could do what they want. :-)
roland
--- On Mon, 10/12/09, Geff McCarthy <geffandjulie at comcast.net> wrote:
From: Geff McCarthy <geffandjulie at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
To: "'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 9:42 AM
I think there were very few, if any, LHD P5B exported to the US. The V8
first went into the '67 model, and all the smog and safety requirements
began in 68. Good luck!
AvMedSafe
Geff and Julie McCarthy
677 NW Melinda Ave
Portland OR 97210
503-241-8468
503-799-3809 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Patrick Hiron
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 11:40 AM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Hi Dirk
Are you starting a P5B stud farm ? Remember this is a Rover / Buick hybrid
; so? they are probably sterile , like mules !!
Cheers
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Dirk Burrowes
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 12:52 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LHD P5B needed
Needed LHD P5b must be shipped to Fitchburg Mass.
There must be hundreds in back yards and barns all over the North America
Ha Ha
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-request at rovernet.ca
Date: 10/09/2009 12:00 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 5
Note: Original message sent as attachment
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From veetwinrider at yahoo.com Mon Oct 12 23:24:05 2009
From: veetwinrider at yahoo.com (roland)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:24:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
In-Reply-To: <672338.51150.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1286.62691.qm@web180509.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
That's a really nice car and a good price as well. Someone's going to get a deal.
roland
--- On Tue, 10/6/09, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009, 7:13 PM
> Hi,
> We have a new Rover advertised on the?RCCC website:
> http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
>
> This time it's a great looking 1967 Rover 3 Litre Mk III.
> Using hotlinks a person can access a web picture album and
> a description.
>
> Eric
>
>
> ?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop
> (c.620-560 BC)
>
>
> ? ? ?
> __________________________________________________________________
> Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real
> people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers..yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
From rovercar at comcast.net Mon Oct 12 23:34:22 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 23:34:22 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
In-Reply-To: <1286.62691.qm@web180509.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1286.62691.qm@web180509.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4AD3F53E.2010508@comcast.net>
roland wrote:
> That's a really nice car and a good price as well. Someone's going to get a deal.
>
> roland
>
I heartily agree with you on that, Roland! There would be no contest in
my mind between $4800 for that one or $9000 for the one on eBay. I
assume that the eBay seller is not on Rovernet since we have not heard
from him. If anyone knows him, you might advise him to at least put up a
couple of interior shots.
Glen
> --- On Tue, 10/6/09, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>> From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009, 7:13 PM
>> Hi,
>> We have a new Rover advertised on the RCCC website:
>> http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
>>
>> This time it's a great looking 1967 Rover 3 Litre Mk III.
>> Using hotlinks a person can access a web picture album and
>> a description.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> "Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop
>> (c.620-560 BC)
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real
>> people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers..yahoo.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
>> mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
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From wreynold at uniserve.com Fri Oct 16 06:07:02 2009
From: wreynold at uniserve.com (Walter Reynolds)
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:07:02 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
Conversions on Tachometers
Message-ID: <7E84E05E5822439996F9F9854C74F385@xpuser>
Hi Rovernetters. Earlier this year there was a discussion on the Rovernet regarding the effect of electronic ignition converstions on tachometers. In the september 2009 issue of Classic Motorsports there was a Product Review of a tachometer conversion that may be of interest to you.
The article (without its photos is:
"Nisonger Electric Tachometer Conversion
Many classic car owners set out to upgrade their cars' ignitions, only to find that the older Smiths and Jaeger RV-series loop tachometers are no longer compatible. These tachs need to run in series with the coil and distributor to get the proper signal, meaning an upgraded ignition requires a modern tachometer. Unfortunately, these units often just don't look right on a vintage dashboard.
Nisonger has developed a cure for this problem, as new circuitry can be added that allows these classic guages to be used with any electronic or points ignition system. The loop assembly is eliminated. Better yet, the conversion doesn't change the outward appearance of the original equipment tachometer.
The electronic tach conversion costs $275. Nisonger can also convert mechanically driven tachometers to work with electronic ignitions.
Nisonger Instruments, (914) 381-1952, nisonger.com"
Hopefully the artical will help.
Walter Reynolds
P1968 P6 2000 SC Auto
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From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 10:56:33 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:56:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
Conversions on Tachometers
In-Reply-To: <7E84E05E5822439996F9F9854C74F385@xpuser>
Message-ID: <1698606452.4740041255704993059.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Walter,
Not challenging your article, but I had heard about being able to modify the units by removing one of the loops of the coil. This is to reduce the sensitivity.They have two loops. I managed to get a hold of a couple of units to examine and took pictures of the internals. In fact I hope to post them to Ben Rodgers, later today. The card reader on my computer went on the fritz and I have to borrow a printer with a built in card reader.
The units come apart quite easily once out of the dash. It is just a matter of removing two or three small screws, loosening the tabs around the bezel to free them and then turning the bezel until the tabs line up with some notches. The unit then comes out easily. The coil uses two bullet connectors, one male and one female. The bullet connectors are held in by slots in a piece of insulating fibre and lift right out. You would have to cut a section of wire out of the loop and then either make a splice or solder another bullet connector on to the exposed end, covering it with heat shrink tubing. If the unit were going to be sent of for modification, this would be an easy trial and if it works, you would save $275.
I installed a Pertronix in my 74 MGB and had no problem with the tach, but the unit or circuity may be a little differnt in the Rovers. The older MGB's, positive ground pre-1968) used a unit that had the coil externally, but the latter ones were internal and are solid state.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Reynolds" <wreynold at uniserve.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 3:07:02 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition Conversions on Tachometers
Hi Rovernetters. Earlier this year there was a discussion on the Rovernet regarding the effect of electronic ignition converstions on tachometers. In the september 2009 issue of Classic Motorsports there was a Product Review of a tachometer conversion that may be of interest to you.
The article (without its photos is:
"Nisonger Electric Tachometer Conversion
?Many classic car owners set out to upgrade their cars' ignitions, only to find that the older Smiths and Jaeger RV-series loop tachometers are no longer compatible. These tachs need to run in series with the coil and distributor to get the proper signal, meaning an upgraded ignition requires a modern tachometer. Unfortunately, these units often just don't look right on a vintage dashboard.
?Nisonger has developed a cure for this problem, as new circuitry can be added that allows these classic guages to be used with any electronic or points ignition system. The loop assembly is eliminated. Better yet, the conversion doesn't change the outward appearance of the original equipment tachometer.
?The electronic tach conversion costs $275. Nisonger can also convert mechanically driven tachometers to work with electronic ignitions.
?Nisonger Instruments, (914) 381-1952, nisonger.com"
Hopefully the artical will help.
Walter Reynolds
P1968 P6 2000 SC Auto
_______________________________________________ Rovernet mailing list Rovernet at rovernet.ca Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail: http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca Here is the old Rovernet archives: http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Fri Oct 16 18:28:31 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 08:58:31 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
Conversions on Tachometers
In-Reply-To: <1698606452.4740041255704993059.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1698606452.4740041255704993059.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AD8F38F.1090304@ozemail.com.au>
Hi Walter/Slats et al .....
The loop referred to is the primary turns of an input current transformer - T1
Smiths circuit here .........
http://www.sw-em.com/Smith%27s%20Tachometer.htm
Current transformers use *whole numbers* of turns through the transformer "window"
Part turns are irrelevant, the important criteria is how mamy times the wire passes thru this window.
The object (window) the turns pass thru is in fact the magnetic core of T1.
Looking at the circuit above, I suspect your $275 gets you a direct connection to the secondary via the base of germanium transistor Q1, and an
upgrade to greater gain silcon transistors.
DON'T forget the Tach is counting PULSES, not current (frequency meter) the magnitude of the pulses is irrelevant, but in this case, due to the
relative insensitivity of the circuit, a certain level of flux is needed from the input pulses to get the tacho to read.
Each turn produces a specific amount of magnetic flux. In the original case, the Tach needs the magnetic flux of 2 turns (1 loop) to operate.
If you could measure the magnitude of the trigger current of the Pertronix system you could re-calculate the number of turns to put thru the
window of T1 to bring the flux level up to approximately that of the original Kettering system.
This only needs to be approximate, since final calibration is achieved via the variable resistor in the meter movement circuit.
******************************************************************************
Example ................
Say the average Kettering coil current was 4 amperes ---> tach needs the flux produced by 2 turns (1 loop)
Say the Pertronix current is 100mA. (0.1A)
Divide 4/0.1 = 40
Thus *theoretically* we need 40 times more Pertronix turns to produce the same amount of flux as the original (= 40 loops)
The wire size only needs to be a fraction of the original because it is only carrying 1/40th of the current.
******************************************************************************
Disclaimer .....
I have not tried this ..... but if you are going to disembowel the tach and remove the original loop, you are over half way there.
;-)
HTH
Cheers
Dave
South Oz
slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>
> Walter,
>
>
>
> Not challenging your article, but I had heard about being able to modify the units by removing one of the loops of the coil. This is to reduce the sensitivity.They have two loops. I managed to get a hold of a couple of units to examine and took pictures of the internals. In fact I hope to post them to Ben Rodgers, later today. The card reader on my computer went on the fritz and I have to borrow a printer with a built in card reader.
>
>
>
> The units come apart quite easily once out of the dash. It is just a matter of removing two or three small screws, loosening the tabs around the bezel to free them and then turning the bezel until the tabs line up with some notches. The unit then comes out easily. The coil uses two bullet connectors, one male and one female. The bullet connectors are held in by slots in a piece of insulating fibre and lift right out. You would have to cut a section of wire out of the loop and then either make a splice or solder another bullet connector on to the exposed end, covering it with heat shrink tubing. If the unit were going to be sent of for modification, this would be an easy trial and if it works, you would save $275.
>
>
>
> I installed a Pertronix in my 74 MGB and had no problem with the tach, but the unit or circuity may be a little differnt in the Rovers. The older MGB's, positive ground pre-1968) used a unit that had the coil externally, but the latter ones were internal and are solid state.
>
>
>
> Slats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Reynolds" <wreynold at uniserve.com>
> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 3:07:02 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition Conversions on Tachometers
>
>
> Hi Rovernetters. Earlier this year there was a discussion on the Rovernet regarding the effect of electronic ignition converstions on tachometers. In the september 2009 issue of Classic Motorsports there was a Product Review of a tachometer conversion that may be of interest to you.
>
> The article (without its photos is:
>
> "Nisonger Electric Tachometer Conversion
> Many classic car owners set out to upgrade their cars' ignitions, only to find that the older Smiths and Jaeger RV-series loop tachometers are no longer compatible. These tachs need to run in series with the coil and distributor to get the proper signal, meaning an upgraded ignition requires a modern tachometer. Unfortunately, these units often just don't look right on a vintage dashboard.
> Nisonger has developed a cure for this problem, as new circuitry can be added that allows these classic guages to be used with any electronic or points ignition system. The loop assembly is eliminated. Better yet, the conversion doesn't change the outward appearance of the original equipment tachometer.
> The electronic tach conversion costs $275. Nisonger can also convert mechanically driven tachometers to work with electronic ignitions.
> Nisonger Instruments, (914) 381-1952, nisonger.com"
>
> Hopefully the artical will help.
>
> Walter Reynolds
> P1968 P6 2000 SC Auto
> _______________________________________________ Rovernet mailing list Rovernet at rovernet.ca Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail: http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca Here is the old Rovernet archives: http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/ Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From vern at inkspotco.com Fri Oct 16 18:57:56 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:57:56 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
Conversions on Tachometers
In-Reply-To: <4AD8F38F.1090304@ozemail.com.au>
References: <1698606452.4740041255704993059.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<4AD8F38F.1090304@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <0A404371-D64A-4199-9306-10148C1A3B14@inkspotco.com>
I tried this a long time ago with a Crane electronic ignition by
replacing the regular loop with some varnished magnet wire, as I
recall I tried two and three loops and the three loops did the best
job. This was on an early tach with the loop outside the case. I
always worried that the wire was too light (it was about 16 gaugel)
but the car didn't seem to mind and now I see why. The Crane was poor
quality though, it only worked for a couple of years.
Yours
Vern
On 2009-10-16, at 3:28 PM, David Read wrote:
> Hi Walter/Slats et al .....
> The loop referred to is the primary turns of an input current
> transformer - T1
> Smiths circuit here .........
> http://www.sw-em.com/Smith%27s%20Tachometer.htm
>
> Current transformers use *whole numbers* of turns through the
> transformer "window"
> Part turns are irrelevant, the important criteria is how mamy times
> the wire passes thru this window.
> The object (window) the turns pass thru is in fact the magnetic core
> of T1.
>
> Looking at the circuit above, I suspect your $275 gets you a direct
> connection to the secondary via the base of germanium transistor Q1,
> and an upgrade to greater gain silcon transistors.
>
> DON'T forget the Tach is counting PULSES, not current (frequency
> meter) the magnitude of the pulses is irrelevant, but in this case,
> due to the relative insensitivity of the circuit, a certain level of
> flux is needed from the input pulses to get the tacho to read.
>
> Each turn produces a specific amount of magnetic flux. In the
> original case, the Tach needs the magnetic flux of 2 turns (1 loop)
> to operate.
>
> If you could measure the magnitude of the trigger current of the
> Pertronix system you could re-calculate the number of turns to put
> thru the window of T1 to bring the flux level up to approximately
> that of the original Kettering system.
> This only needs to be approximate, since final calibration is
> achieved via the variable resistor in the meter movement circuit.
>
> ******************************************************************************
> Example ................
> Say the average Kettering coil current was 4 amperes ---> tach needs
> the flux produced by 2 turns (1 loop)
> Say the Pertronix current is 100mA. (0.1A)
> Divide 4/0.1 = 40
>
> Thus *theoretically* we need 40 times more Pertronix turns to
> produce the same amount of flux as the original (= 40 loops)
>
> The wire size only needs to be a fraction of the original because it
> is only carrying 1/40th of the current.
> ******************************************************************************
>
> Disclaimer .....
> I have not tried this ..... but if you are going to disembowel the
> tach and remove the original loop, you are over half way there.
> ;-)
>
> HTH
>
> Cheers
> Dave
> South Oz
>
> slatskars at comcast.net wrote:
>> Walter, Not challenging your article, but I had heard about being
>> able to modify the units by removing one of the loops of the coil.
>> This is to reduce the sensitivity.They have two loops. I managed to
>> get a hold of a couple of units to examine and took pictures of the
>> internals. In fact I hope to post them to Ben Rodgers, later today.
>> The card reader on my computer went on the fritz and I have to
>> borrow a printer with a built in card reader. The units come apart
>> quite easily once out of the dash. It is just a matter of removing
>> two or three small screws, loosening the tabs around the bezel to
>> free them and then turning the bezel until the tabs line up with
>> some notches. The unit then comes out easily. The coil uses two
>> bullet connectors, one male and one female. The bullet connectors
>> are held in by slots in a piece of insulating fibre and lift right
>> out. You would have to cut a section of wire out of the loop and
>> then either make a splice or solder another bullet connector on to
>> the exposed end, covering it with heat shrink tubing. If the unit
>> were going to be sent of for modification, this would be an easy
>> trial and if it works, you would save $275. I installed a Pertronix
>> in my 74 MGB and had no problem with the tach, but the unit or
>> circuity may be a little differnt in the Rovers. The older MGB's,
>> positive ground pre-1968) used a unit that had the coil externally,
>> but the latter ones were internal and are solid state. Slats -----
>> Original Message ----- From: "Walter Reynolds"
>> <wreynold at uniserve.com> To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca> Sent:
>> Friday, October 16, 2009 3:07:02 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
>> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
>> Conversions on Tachometers Hi Rovernetters. Earlier this year there
>> was a discussion on the Rovernet regarding the effect of electronic
>> ignition converstions on tachometers. In the september 2009 issue
>> of Classic Motorsports there was a Product Review of a tachometer
>> conversion that may be of interest to you. The article (without its
>> photos is: "Nisonger Electric Tachometer Conversion Many classic
>> car owners set out to upgrade their cars' ignitions, only to find
>> that the older Smiths and Jaeger RV-series loop tachometers are no
>> longer compatible. These tachs need to run in series with the coil
>> and distributor to get the proper signal, meaning an upgraded
>> ignition requires a modern tachometer. Unfortunately, these units
>> often just don't look right on a vintage dashboard. Nisonger has
>> developed a cure for this problem, as new circuitry can be added
>> that allows these classic guages to be used with any electronic or
>> points ignition system. The loop assembly is eliminated. Better
>> yet, the conversion doesn't change the outward appearance of the
>> original equipment tachometer. The electronic tach conversion
>> costs $275. Nisonger can also convert mechanically driven
>> tachometers to work with electronic ignitions. Nisonger
>> Instruments, (914) 381-1952, nisonger.com" Hopefully the artical
>> will help. Walter Reynolds P1968 P6 2000 SC Auto
>> _______________________________________________ Rovernet mailing
>> list Rovernet at rovernet.ca Here is where you can change your
>> settings such as digest mode or no-mail: http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives: http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Sat Oct 17 18:19:19 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:49:19 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] su re-install
In-Reply-To: <SNT105-W4778307B6416034AFF11508E250@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.93.1247352703.14133.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<SNT105-W4778307B6416034AFF11508E250@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4ADA42E7.6090108@ozemail.com.au>
Hi Gurus,
I need a little help .....
After much thought, I have finally got off my posterior and replacing my P6B's Performer manifold and Holley 4bbl with the stock SU setup
Pix here ....
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110 at ozemail.com.au/mypage/rover_sedan_pages.htm
I have visited a couple of local breaker's yards, but the only P6B's I could find were missing their engines <gloom>.
I have a few questions as I need to re-plumb ....
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110 at ozemail.com.au/mypage/images/su8.jpg
* The SU's have two outlets each
* The right hand (in the pic) unit has a fine capillary tube emerging from underneath
* the LH fuel connector I presume is a fuel tank return?
* the center tube on the pyramid (under the air intake) goes ....?
* where does the rocker cover vent hook up to?
* where does the dizzy vacuum advance connect?
* I suspect that I may need to change the rocker covers to provide correct vent connections?
* there is also a charcoal cannister somewhere in the mix
* I need to know where the original throttle linkage rotates at the firewall end, the acme bracket is missing.
The current transmission kickdown cable is far too long for the su's
How easy is it to replace with the oem unit?
I guess a set of pics may help. My Haynes manual is a little sparse in this regard.
Thanks and cheers
Dave
South Oz
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Oct 18 20:12:47 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 17:12:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
In-Reply-To: <672338.51150.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <672338.51150.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42768.19848.qm@web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hi,
Follow-up on the P5 advertised on our website. It's been sold and is being picked up in the coming week.
Thanks for looking,
Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
----- Original Message ----
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Tue, October 6, 2009 7:13:24 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3 Litre for Sale on RCCC site
Hi,
We have a new Rover advertised on the?RCCC website:
http://www.roverclub.ca/roversforsale.htm
This time it's a great looking 1967 Rover 3 Litre Mk III.
Using hotlinks a person can access a web picture album and a description.
Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
? ? ? __________________________________________________________________
Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
__________________________________________________________________
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From WMurray at ARTC.com.au Mon Oct 19 03:51:27 2009
From: WMurray at ARTC.com.au (Wayne Murray)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 18:51:27 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] su re-install
References: <mailman.93.1247352703.14133.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><SNT105-W4778307B6416034AFF11508E250@phx.gbl>
<4ADA42E7.6090108@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <DD2967878840754BA54D77AC29F19FE9178062@MAILBMT01.artc.int>
G,day Dave,
I've a P6B but with the earlier S.Us so I can help you out a little way
with your replumb.
The small tube from the right carby will be your vac advance, it
connects to the dizzy be inserting another fine tube into the end of the
rubber joint tube then to your advance unit.
You were right about the left carby outlet, it's the fuel return line to
the tank, make sure that you place a restrictor in the line, if there
isn't one already fitted.
The hose that comes out of the pyramid is a coolant bleed line, it
connects either to the radiator near the overflow outlet, there should
be a small pipe to connect to, or if you have an expansion tank you
connect to that.
The engine breather pipes, one on each cover, will be connected to the
larger outlet on each carby, the ones that are closest to the centre
pyramid, you shouldn't have to change your rocker covers,
.
As I said I have the earlier S.U carbs on mine so I can't help you with
the charcoal canister connections though by looking at the photo of the
front of the carbs I would hazard a guess that the canister would be
connected to the two smaller outlets on the carbs, the outer ones.
On my car the accel. linkages pivot from the firewall, there is a
connection piece that joins the linkage from the manifold to the
firewall that the linkage from the foot peddle connects too. You will
find a hole in behind the sound insulation, inline with the manifold
linkage, on the firewall(I hope).The kickdown cable is a bit of a bugger
though to change, I have a BW65 slushy in mine and to change the cable,
which I have had to do, you
have to drop the auto's pan and try to release the cable from up inside
the box, it's held in into the body of the tranny with an expanding
plastic connection. Wouldn't you be better of to re-route your existing
cable to take up some of the length?.
Anyway David hope some of my gibberish makes sense and is of some help
I am sure that if I am wrong the aforesaid Gurus will correct some of
the info. Cheers Wayne.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On Behalf Of David Read
Sent: Sunday, 18 October 2009 9:19 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] su re-install
Hi Gurus,
I need a little help .....
After much thought, I have finally got off my posterior and replacing my
P6B's Performer manifold and Holley 4bbl with the stock SU setup
Pix here ....
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110 at ozemail.com.au/mypage/rover_s
edan_pages.htm
I have visited a couple of local breaker's yards, but the only P6B's I
could find were missing their engines <gloom>.
I have a few questions as I need to re-plumb ....
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~defender110 at ozemail.com.au/mypage/images/
su8.jpg
* The SU's have two outlets each
* The right hand (in the pic) unit has a fine capillary tube emerging
from underneath
* the LH fuel connector I presume is a fuel tank return?
* the center tube on the pyramid (under the air intake) goes ....?
* where does the rocker cover vent hook up to?
* where does the dizzy vacuum advance connect?
* I suspect that I may need to change the rocker covers to provide
correct vent connections?
* there is also a charcoal cannister somewhere in the mix
* I need to know where the original throttle linkage rotates at the
firewall end, the acme bracket is missing.
The current transmission kickdown cable is far too long for the su's
How easy is it to replace with the oem unit?
I guess a set of pics may help. My Haynes manual is a little sparse in
this regard.
Thanks and cheers
Dave
South Oz
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Mon Oct 19 09:17:03 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 09:17:03 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
Message-ID: <c64.56b23b35.380dc0cf@aol.com>
Roy and All,
Appologies about being so far behind in my non -
income related email.
What you are looking for is a "Re-Roll" In another time and place I
used to send lots of fairly ordinary steel wheels out for this process (
usually Rubery Owen products). All the outfits that did this process in
Sydney decades ago, are probably long gone. Hopefully some of their gear is
still floating around with some younger operators. Why do we like our particular
older cars? Because they are the best products of those that have gone
before us. We are honouring those people with our "Hobby".
The Re-Roll. The wheels would come back straight and true painted in
the right colour of silver. Took about two or three working days. The boys
apparently mounted the wheel in their gizmo, gave the apparent damage the Mk
111 eyeball procedure. The cracks in the Bead area they bead blasted before
"Straightening" the wheel. That thing you put your tyres on, is actually two
things.
The Wheel and The Rim.
This is real steel we are talking about. So the boys had a bit of a
push and shove on the "wheel" before going to work on the "Rim", This
minimised the Re-Roll. The bead area that was previously eyeballed and blasted
copped a dose of real good Tigging (TIG) in the cracks and while still Cherry Red
started to get Rolled. The wheels came back perfect with one exception. If
the "Boys" discovered it they would cut a lump out of the wheel (RIM) to
fail it.
The very annoying fail was that after doing all the work, the final
Silver paint, sank into cracks around the PCD, going to bolt hole to bolt
hole.. This is the one where the failure is such that the tyre, rim and half the
wheel set off on their own, leaving the other half of the wheel still bolted
to the hub. My Dad did this at least five times when racing Aussie Tin Top
Holdens. The boys that fix the wheels used their last coat of paint to check
for this one. Cheaper than Turco, but boy oh boy did they spit the dummy
when they found a PCD crack. If you spray a slightly more than Dry Coat of
Silver Spray Can paint onto a completely oil free steel surface, and watch the
Paint Dry, you can get a reasonable idea of where the cracks are. A lot
cheaper than the theTurco 3 Can Kit at least over a Hundred Bucks OZ..
Enough, Burnt Out Again. Their are some people advertising in Aussie
Mags, Full Wheel Restoration Services. They are good. Problem is now that
the strenght of the Ozzie Buck is making our services a bit exxy for the rest
of the Planet.
Bombed Out,
MWJ.
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From stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com Wed Oct 21 10:15:52 2009
From: stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com (stephen clark)
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:15:52 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
In-Reply-To: <c64.56b23b35.380dc0cf@aol.com>
References: <c64.56b23b35.380dc0cf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8c9d5a670910210715u303421efh404dcd12d7ffc371@mail.gmail.com>
Hello Rovers,
I live in Pennsylvania and have a 1966 Mark 2 P5. I am looking for rear
wheel cylinders and the brake master cylinder. If anyone has a lead, I
would greatly appreciate hearing about it.
Thanks
Stephen clark
917 414 4554
On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 9:17 AM, <MarkCoorparoo at aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Roy and All,
> Appologies about being so far behind in my non -
> income related email.
>
> What you are looking for is a "Re-Roll" In another time and place I
> used to send lots of fairly ordinary steel wheels out for this process (
> usually Rubery Owen products). All the outfits that did this process in
> Sydney decades ago, are probably long gone. Hopefully some of their gear is
> still floating around with some younger operators. Why do we like our
> particular older cars? Because they are the best products of those that
> have gone before us. We are honouring those people with our "Hobby".
>
> The Re-Roll. The wheels would come back straight and true painted in
> the right colour of silver. Took about two or three working days. The boys
> apparently mounted the wheel in their gizmo, gave the apparent damage the Mk
> 111 eyeball procedure. The cracks in the Bead area they bead blasted before
> "Straightening" the wheel. That thing you put your tyres on, is actually two
> things.
>
> The Wheel and The Rim.
>
> This is real steel we are talking about. So the boys had a bit of a
> push and shove on the "wheel" before going to work on the "Rim", This
> minimised the Re-Roll. The bead area that was previously eyeballed and
> blasted copped a dose of real good Tigging (TIG) in the cracks and while
> still Cherry Red started to get Rolled. The wheels came back perfect with
> one exception. If the "Boys" discovered it they would cut a lump out of the
> wheel (RIM) to fail it.
>
> The very annoying fail was that after doing all the work, the final
> Silver paint, sank into cracks around the PCD, going to bolt hole to bolt
> hole.. This is the one where the failure is such that the tyre, rim and half
> the wheel set off on their own, leaving the other half of the wheel still
> bolted to the hub. My Dad did this at least five times when racing Aussie
> Tin Top Holdens. The boys that fix the wheels used their last coat of paint
> to check for this one. Cheaper than Turco, but boy oh boy did they spit the
> dummy when they found a PCD crack. If you spray a slightly more than Dry
> Coat of Silver Spray Can paint onto a completely oil free steel surface,
> and watch the Paint Dry, you can get a reasonable idea of where the cracks
> are. A lot cheaper than the theTurco 3 Can Kit at least over a Hundred
> Bucks OZ..
>
> Enough, Burnt Out Again. Their are some people advertising in Aussie
> Mags, Full Wheel Restoration Services. They are good. Problem is now that
> the strenght of the Ozzie Buck is making our services a bit exxy for the
> rest of the Planet.
>
> Bombed Out,
> MWJ.
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
-------------- next part --------------
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From phing at videotron.ca Wed Oct 21 11:22:26 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 11:22:26 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brake cylinders was Steel wheel
repair?
In-Reply-To: <8c9d5a670910210715u303421efh404dcd12d7ffc371@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c64.56b23b35.380dc0cf@aol.com>
<8c9d5a670910210715u303421efh404dcd12d7ffc371@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501ca5262$4bb29d70$e317d850$@ca>
Hi
White Post in Virginia l resleeved my P3 cylinders in stainless steel
.They did an excellent job Many other shops advertise the same service in
Hemmings
Patrick
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of stephen clark
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 10:16 AM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
Hello Rovers,
I live in Pennsylvania and have a 1966 Mark 2 P5. I am looking for rear
wheel cylinders and the brake master cylinder. If anyone has a lead, I
would greatly appreciate hearing about it.
Thanks
Stephen clark
917 414 4554
On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 9:17 AM, <MarkCoorparoo at aol.com> wrote:
Roy and All,
Appologies about being so far behind in my non -
income related email.
What you are looking for is a "Re-Roll" In another time and place I
used to send lots of fairly ordinary steel wheels out for this process (
usually Rubery Owen products). All the outfits that did this process in
Sydney decades ago, are probably long gone. Hopefully some of their gear is
still floating around with some younger operators. Why do we like our
particular older cars? Because they are the best products of those that
have gone before us. We are honouring those people with our "Hobby".
The Re-Roll. The wheels would come back straight and true painted in
the right colour of silver. Took about two or three working days. The boys
apparently mounted the wheel in their gizmo, gave the apparent damage the Mk
111 eyeball procedure. The cracks in the Bead area they bead blasted before
"Straightening" the wheel. That thing you put your tyres on, is actually two
things.
The Wheel and The Rim.
This is real steel we are talking about. So the boys had a bit of a
push and shove on the "wheel" before going to work on the "Rim", This
minimised the Re-Roll. The bead area that was previously eyeballed and
blasted copped a dose of real good Tigging (TIG) in the cracks and while
still Cherry Red started to get Rolled. The wheels came back perfect with
one exception. If the "Boys" discovered it they would cut a lump out of the
wheel (RIM) to fail it.
The very annoying fail was that after doing all the work, the final
Silver paint, sank into cracks around the PCD, going to bolt hole to bolt
hole.. This is the one where the failure is such that the tyre, rim and half
the wheel set off on their own, leaving the other half of the wheel still
bolted to the hub. My Dad did this at least five times when racing Aussie
Tin Top Holdens. The boys that fix the wheels used their last coat of paint
to check for this one. Cheaper than Turco, but boy oh boy did they spit the
dummy when they found a PCD crack. If you spray a slightly more than Dry
Coat of Silver Spray Can paint onto a completely oil free steel surface,
and watch the Paint Dry, you can get a reasonable idea of where the cracks
are. A lot cheaper than the theTurco 3 Can Kit at least over a Hundred
Bucks OZ..
Enough, Burnt Out Again. Their are some people advertising in Aussie
Mags, Full Wheel Restoration Services. They are good. Problem is now that
the strenght of the Ozzie Buck is making our services a bit exxy for the
rest of the Planet.
Bombed Out,
MWJ.
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
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From pjemail at aol.com Wed Oct 21 11:30:56 2009
From: pjemail at aol.com (pjemail at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 11:30:56 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
In-Reply-To: <8c9d5a670910210715u303421efh404dcd12d7ffc371@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c64.56b23b35.380dc0cf@aol.com>
<8c9d5a670910210715u303421efh404dcd12d7ffc371@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC207A9E1066D9-1278-FD3@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com>
Dear Stephen,
I can supply new rear wheel cylinders and a master cylinder. Please contact me direct on pjemail at aol.com for further details.
Regards,
Pierre Janusz
-----Original Message-----
From: stephen clark <stephenclarkbuckscounty at gmail.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 15:15
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
Hello Rovers,
I live in Pennsylvania and have a 1966 Mark 2 P5. I am looking for rear wheel cylinders and the brake master cylinder. If anyone has a lead, I would greatly appreciate hearing about it.
Thanks
Stephen clark
917 414 4554
On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 9:17 AM, <MarkCoorparoo at aol.com> wrote:
Roy and All,
Appologies about being so far behind in my non - income related email.
What you are looking for is a "Re-Roll" In another time and place I used to send lots of fairly ordinary steel wheels out for this process ( usually Rubery Owen products). All the outfits that did this process in Sydney decades ago, are probably long gone. Hopefully some of their gear is still floating around with some younger operators. Why do we like our particular older cars? Because they are the best products of those that have gone before us. We are honouring those people with our "Hobby".
The Re-Roll. The wheels would come back straight and true painted in the right colour of silver. Took about two or three working days. The boys apparently mounted the wheel in their gizmo, gave the apparent damage the Mk 111 eyeball procedure. The cracks in the Bead area they bead blasted before "Straightening" the wheel. That thing you put your tyres on, is actually two things.
The Wheel and The Rim.
This is real steel we are talking about. So the boys had a bit of a push and shove on the "wheel" before going to work on the "Rim", This minimised the Re-Roll. The bead area that was previously eyeballed and blasted copped a dose of real good Tigging (TIG) in the cracks and while still Cherry Red started to get Rolled. The wheels came back perfect with one exception. If the "Boys" discovered it they would cut a lump out of the wheel (RIM) to fail it.
The very annoying fail was that after doing all the work, the final Silver paint, sank into cracks around the PCD, going to bolt hole to bolt hole.. This is the one where the failure is such that the tyre, rim and half the wheel set off on their own, leaving the other half of the wheel still bolted to the hub. My Dad did this at least five times when racing Aussie Tin Top Holdens. The boys that fix the wheels used their last coat of paint to check for this one. Cheaper than Turco, but boy oh boy did they spit the dummy when they found a PCD crack. If you spray a slightly more than Dry Coat of Silver Spray Can paint onto a completely oil free steel surface, and watch the Paint Dry, you can get a reasonable idea of where the cracks are. A lot cheaper than the theTurco 3 Can Kit at least over a Hundred Bucks OZ..
Enough, Burnt Out Again. Their are some people advertising in Aussie Mags, Full Wheel Restoration Services. They are good. Problem is now that the strenght of the Ozzie Buck is making our services a bit exxy for the rest of the Planet.
Bombed Out,
MWJ.
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
overnet mailing list
overnet at rovernet.ca
ere is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
ttp://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
ere is the old Rovernet archives:
ttp://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
oin the Back-up list and post photos at:
ttp://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From rovercar at comcast.net Mon Oct 19 04:09:33 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 04:09:33 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover P5 on eBay
In-Reply-To: <DD2967878840754BA54D77AC29F19FE9178062@MAILBMT01.artc.int>
References: <mailman.93.1247352703.14133.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca><SNT105-W4778307B6416034AFF11508E250@phx.gbl> <4ADA42E7.6090108@ozemail.com.au>
<DD2967878840754BA54D77AC29F19FE9178062@MAILBMT01.artc.int>
Message-ID: <4ADC1EBD.8070501@comcast.net>
So, how are they going to work this one out? Same car listed twice with
two different item numbers and bids on both...
Item number:150380029939
Item number:150380030287
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Thu Oct 22 22:21:05 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
Message-ID: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Hi all........
Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1 transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you can give me a good description or better yet a picture or diagram it would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another Rover on the road properly
Thanks
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
Get Windows 7 for only $39.99?CDN College & University students only. This offer ends Jan 3?upgrade now!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691637
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From kkinard at att.net Thu Oct 22 22:31:41 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:31:41 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AE1158D.9090807@att.net>
Hi Bill,
I have one, but I've never been underneath to see how the rear mount was
done (I didn't do the installation). I'll get out the jack and the
camera....
Roverecumbantly,
Kent K.
Bill Robertson wrote:
> Hi all........
> Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1
> transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the
> trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft
> ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you
> can give me a good description or better yet a picture or diagram it
> would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another
> Rover on the road properly
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99
> before Jan 3! Buy it now! <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691632>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From gbbourque at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 00:37:45 2009
From: gbbourque at hotmail.com (garrett bourque)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:37:45 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
Hello Rovernet,
In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are several alterations to parts that have to take place. Use the original SD1 trans mount and pressed steel crossmember but alter it. It will need to be shortened at both ends and flattened out. Next, drill holes in it to match the mounting points on the side of the car's trans. tunnel. The trans will then mount in and keep the driveshaft the same length.
The next task is to fit a set of pedals from a 2000 that allow a clutch pedal to be used. The pedal brackets interchange and the 2000 ones bolt in, but the cylinder bracket on the firewall will need to be altered to line the pedals up with their respective master cylinders. The inner fender cannot be altered to make space for a clutch slave cylinder because the front coil spring for the suspension is on the other side of it, and very close. Space is tight for the cylinders side by side and the exhaust manifold is not far away either. Use a Rover 2000 clutch master cylinder which needs its own remote reservoir.
In order to move the brake master cylinder and fit a clutch slave do as follows. Remove the cylinder bracket from the firewall and mount the pedals from a 2000 inside the car. Note where the pushrod protrudes through the firewall and cut the opening in the car's body where the pushrods pass through. This will make space for the clutch pushrod to pass through the firewall hole.
On the cylinder mounting plate, cut the brake master cylinder's spacer tube from the flat mounting plate. Plan to move the tubular bracket that holds the brake master cylinder towards the centerline of the car on LHD models. Determine a location to line up the cylinder with brake master's pushrod. Reweld the spacer tube to the plate keeping the same inclination for the cylinder.
Fabricate a similar looking spacer tube for the clutch master cylinder to mount to. Weld it to the mounting plate allowing the pushrod to line up to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe is a useful material to make the spacer tube from. The brake master and spacer tube assembly will need to be moved sideways enough to allow space for a clutch master cylinder and spacer tube to be welded to the flat base plate. The clutch's spacer tube that needs to be made can be mounted in line laterally with the clutch pedal's pushrod.
The cylinders when mounted in the car should be mounted at the incline that keeps them parallel to the pushrod that they are connected to.
This is confusing to describe without a photo, but think in 3 dimensions and either work with or be a good fabricator. Get the parts needed for this portion of the project such as the pedals and slave cylinder from a 2000 and a foot of exhaust pipe of a suitable diameter. Next hold the clutch master cytinder up to the car's firewall in the engine compartment and visualize the limited space and small tolerences that you will need to work in.
If you get the mounting bracket alterations completed, you will be one of the elite few that have achieved this!!! I have completed this trans conversion job on two different cars. The cars are very rewarding to drive with the 5 speed installed. See photos of a 1970 3500S with a 5 speed on my website. www dot gbservicesusa dot com. I own a restoration shop that specializes in 50s to 80s british cars as well as imports from other countries. Contact me off rovernet if you have any questions. gbbourque at gmail.com.
Good Luck with your cars everybody!!!
Garrett Bourque
GB Services Auto Restoration
Jefferson, Maine USA
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
Hi all........
Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1 transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you can give me a good description or better yet a picture or diagram it would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another Rover on the road properly
Thanks
Bill Robertson
CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99 before Jan 3! Buy it now!
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default-ga.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009
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From rovercar at comcast.net Fri Oct 23 01:16:59 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:16:59 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net>
Say, anyone ever hear of this Garrett Bourque fellow? Kent, does this
guy even have a clue?
;-)
Garrett's sort of the authority on this. Aren't there some good diagrams
of much of this in one of the P6 books? I've been here a year but
haven't unpacked all of my Rover books, yet or I would look it up. I
think it was the brown 3500 article book.
Glen
PS Snow up there yet, Garrett?
garrett bourque wrote:
> Hello Rovernet,
> In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are
> several alterations to parts that have to take place. Use the
> original SD1 trans mount and pressed steel crossmember but alter it.
> It will need to be shortened at both ends and flattened out. Next,
> drill holes in it to match the mounting points on the side of the
> car's trans. tunnel. The trans will then mount in and keep the
> driveshaft the same length.
> The next task is to fit a set of pedals from a 2000 that allow a
> clutch pedal to be used. The pedal brackets interchange and the 2000
> ones bolt in, but the cylinder bracket on the firewall will need to
> be altered to line the pedals up with their respective master
> cylinders. The inner fender cannot be altered to make space for a
> clutch slave cylinder because the front coil spring for the suspension
> is on the other side of it, and very close. Space is tight for the
> cylinders side by side and the exhaust manifold is not far away
> either. Use a Rover 2000 clutch master cylinder which needs its own
> remote reservoir.
> In order to move the brake master cylinder and fit a clutch slave
> do as follows. Remove the cylinder bracket from the firewall and
> mount the pedals from a 2000 inside the car. Note where the pushrod
> protrudes through the firewall and cut the opening in the car's
> body where the pushrods pass through. This will make space for the
> clutch pushrod to pass through the firewall hole.
> On the cylinder mounting plate, cut the brake master cylinder's
> spacer tube from the flat mounting plate. Plan to move the tubular
> bracket that holds the brake master cylinder towards the centerline of
> the car on LHD models. Determine a location to line up the
> cylinder with brake master's pushrod. Reweld the spacer tube to the
> plate keeping the same inclination for the cylinder.
> Fabricate a similar looking spacer tube for the clutch master
> cylinder to mount to. Weld it to the mounting plate allowing the
> pushrod to line up to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe is a useful material
> to make the spacer tube from. The brake master and spacer tube
> assembly will need to be moved sideways enough to allow space for a
> clutch master cylinder and spacer tube to be welded to the flat base
> plate. The clutch's spacer tube that needs to be made can
> be mounted in line laterally with the clutch pedal's pushrod.
> The cylinders when mounted in the car should be mounted at the
> incline that keeps them parallel to the pushrod that they are
> connected to.
>
> This is confusing to describe without a photo, but think in 3
> dimensions and either work with or be a good fabricator. Get the
> parts needed for this portion of the project such as the pedals and
> slave cylinder from a 2000 and a foot of exhaust pipe of a
> suitable diameter. Next hold the clutch master cytinder up to the
> car's firewall in the engine compartment and visualize the limited
> space and small tolerences that you will need to work in.
> If you get the mounting bracket alterations completed, you will be
> one of the elite few that have achieved this!!! I have completed this
> trans conversion job on two different cars. The cars are very
> rewarding to drive with the 5 speed installed. See photos of a 1970
> 3500S with a 5 speed on my website. www dot gbservicesusa dot com. I
> own a restoration shop that specializes in 50s to 80s british cars as
> well as imports from other countries. Contact me off rovernet if you
> have any questions. gbbourque at gmail.com.
>
> Good Luck with your cars everybody!!!
> Garrett Bourque
> GB Services Auto Restoration
> Jefferson, Maine USA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
>
> Hi all........
> Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1
> transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the
> trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft
> ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you
> can give me a good description or better yet a picture or diagram it
> would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another
> Rover on the road properly
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99
> before Jan 3! Buy it now! <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691632>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
> <http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default-ga.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Fri Oct 23 07:00:44 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 21:30:44 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
In-Reply-To: <4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl> <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AE18CDC.2040509@ozemail.com.au>
Hi all
I thought you had to panelbeat the tunnel as the GM180 is a tad fatter than the BW.
A common swap here is a Toyota 5 speed manual box behind the 3.5.
Anyone here done this?
Cheers
Dave
South Oz
> garrett bourque wrote:
> Hello Rovernet,
> In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are
> several alterations to parts that have to take place.
<snip>
From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 07:41:24 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 08:41:24 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
In-Reply-To: <4AE18CDC.2040509@ozemail.com.au>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net> <4AE18CDC.2040509@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <COL114-W40745F99D983C77953BB11DEBD0@phx.gbl>
Is there anything out there in a 4 speed auto ?? that will replace the BW 35 Auto ?? I don't think I would like to have a standard in my 3500S as I only know this car as an auto ..so it simply would not feel or look the same to me afterward.
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 21:30:44 +1030
> From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
>
> Hi all
> I thought you had to panelbeat the tunnel as the GM180 is a tad fatter than the BW.
> A common swap here is a Toyota 5 speed manual box behind the 3.5.
>
> Anyone here done this?
>
> Cheers
> Dave
> South Oz
>
> > garrett bourque wrote:
> > Hello Rovernet,
> > In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are
> > several alterations to parts that have to take place.
>
> <snip>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_________________________________________________________________
CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99 before Jan 3! Buy it now!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691636
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From phing at videotron.ca Fri Oct 23 12:31:38 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:31:38 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Manual and auto trannies into P6B
was Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W40745F99D983C77953BB11DEBD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net> <4AE18CDC.2040509@ozemail.com.au>
<COL114-W40745F99D983C77953BB11DEBD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000001ca53fe$4b98e3b0$e2caab10$@ca>
Hi
The UK P6 Rover owner's club forum ;www.p6roc.com.uk currently has two
long threads, with pictures , on converting P6Bs to either manual or more
modern auto transmissions . You do not have to be a roc member to access
the website.
Cheers
Patrick
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Dennis Brooks
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 7:41 AM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
Is there anything out there in a 4 speed auto ?? that will replace the BW
35 Auto ?? I don't think I would like to have a standard in my 3500S as I
only know this car as an auto ..so it simply would not feel or look the same
to me afterward.
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 21:30:44 +1030
> From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
>
> Hi all
> I thought you had to panelbeat the tunnel as the GM180 is a tad fatter
than the BW.
> A common swap here is a Toyota 5 speed manual box behind the 3.5.
>
> Anyone here done this?
>
> Cheers
> Dave
> South Oz
>
> > garrett bourque wrote:
> > Hello Rovernet,
> > In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are
> > several alterations to parts that have to take place.
>
> <snip>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_____
Save up to 84% on Windows 7 until Jan 3-eligible CDN College or University
students only. Hurry-buy <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691631> it now
for $39.99!
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From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Fri Oct 23 13:04:12 2009
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:04:12 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
In-Reply-To: <4AE18CDC.2040509@ozemail.com.au>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net> <4AE18CDC.2040509@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <204ec4390910231004i4c7160e6u41b248adb110461@mail.gmail.com>
I've ?got a Converison Components kit and a close ratio set up in the
roadworthy car. ?The work had been done before I got the car, but it's
a very straightforward operation, especially if you buy the complete
kit from NZ rather than trying to build it from seperate parts
The only issue I have is that the PO has fitted the pedals rather too
close together for me - I have rather wider feet than he does, I think
Aidrian
On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 4:00 AM, David Read <defender110 at ozemail.com.au> wrote:
> A common swap here is a Toyota 5 speed manual box behind the 3.5.
>
> Anyone here done this?
From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 14:06:31 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:06:31 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 gearbox con't
Message-ID: <BAY119-W32891F035DECA58031F36BDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Hi all........
I'm not trying to put one (SD1 gearbox)in the car..........it was installed 10 years ago in his 3500S but with a basterdized mount for the rear of the gearbox and that has broken and is irrepairable......It was also always vibrating terribly since it had no rubber mount......He'd like to put a proper type mount , or something that has some cushioning effect in.........I'd like Kent's idea of an SD1 gearbox mount that is modified..........I'd never seen one but looking at Rimmers catalog online, it appears rectangular with the top mount looking like it could be modified relatively easy to fit the P6 tunnel mounting holes ............Yes i have a Toyota Supra 5 speed available to me so at a much later date, i'll give that a go
Thanks for all the responses
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99 before Jan 3! Buy it now!
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691636
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From kkinard at att.net Fri Oct 23 15:07:37 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:07:37 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] LT77 and Auto conversions for P6B
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W32891F035DECA58031F36BDEBD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W32891F035DECA58031F36BDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AE1FEF9.6010508@att.net>
Bill Robertson wrote:
Hi All,
I won't comment on the SD1/LT77 installation until I can crawl
underneath and that may not be until Monday. Several things occur to
me, though. Garrett uses the original dual circuit NAS brake system.
It might be easier to fit a single circuit system rather than make all
the modifications he talks about if the single circuit system poses
fewer space problems.
As to automatics, all the UK threads deal with the ZF boxes which are
expensive to rebuild and you will need pieces from more than one (Range
Rover bellhousing/torque converter/flex plate, Jag/BMW/Volvo/etc.
taihousing). If anyone wants to try this, I have the BMW back end parts
from the first time I looked at this.
In North America (and perhaps Australia/New Zealand) using a GM
non-electronic box is much cheaper and easier. D&D sell two different
bits to mount the T700-R4, one for the large bellhousing version which
is relatively cheap and one for the small bellhousing version which is
used chiefly in MGB V8 conversions and is quite expensive. There is at
least one conversion in Oz with the large bellhousing version. I had
concerns about firewall clearance, but evidently those concerns were
unfounded. Transmission tunnel and rear mounting are unknown
quantities. Lokar shifters look nice and are available for the 700R4 in
various stick lengths. 700R4 uses a mechanical (cable) kickdown which
must be properly adjusted as also controls modulation, but there is a
new kit available to divorce the kickdown and modulation functions and I
would recommend this to anyone using a 700R4. I will be fitting one of
these to my SD1 to replace a T400.
Rovermaticly,
Kent K.
> Hi all........
> I'm not trying to put one (SD1 gearbox)in the
> car..........it was installed 10 years ago in his 3500S but with a
> basterdized mount for the rear of the gearbox and that has broken and
> is irrepairable......It was also always vibrating terribly since it
> had no rubber mount......He'd like to put a proper type mount , or
> something that has some cushioning effect in.........I'd like Kent's
> idea of an SD1 gearbox mount that is modified..........I'd never seen
> one but looking at Rimmers catalog online, it appears rectangular
> with the top mount looking like it could be modified relatively easy
> to fit the P6 tunnel mounting holes ............Yes i have a Toyota
> Supra 5 speed available to me so at a much later date, i'll give that
> a go
> Thanks for all the responses
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Save up to 84% on Windows 7 until Jan 3-eligible CDN College or
> University students only. Hurry-buy it now for $39.99!
> <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691631>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From gbbourque at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 19:03:02 2009
From: gbbourque at hotmail.com (garrett bourque)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:03:02 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <4AE13C4B.9090400@comcast.net>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT108-W2035EF45B9D4694025BC3BA1BD0@phx.gbl>
Hello Rovernet,
There has been "snow on the pumpkin" within days of the first "frost on the pumpkin"! The weather has been bizarre this (not) summer! Anyway, I got off on a tangent explaining the pedal conversion info, but had not written anything in a while. Some directions for certain products that you read are so poor that you cannot even understand them, so I thought I would try my hand at it!
My customer's 3500s shown on my website has a 5 speed conversion and will be ready for delivery to him soon, after undergoing a very comprehensive restoration. Thanks for your input on my writing!!
Garrett
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:16:59 -0400
From: rovercar at comcast.net
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
Say, anyone ever hear of this Garrett Bourque fellow? Kent, does this guy even have a clue?
;-)
Garrett's sort of the authority on this. Aren't there some good diagrams of much of this in one of the P6 books? I've been here a year but haven't unpacked all of my Rover books, yet or I would look it up. I think it was the brown 3500 article book.
Glen
PS Snow up there yet, Garrett?
garrett bourque wrote:
Hello Rovernet,
In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are several alterations to parts that have to take place. Use the original SD1 trans mount and pressed steel crossmember but alter it. It will need to be shortened at both ends and flattened out. Next, drill holes in it to match the mounting points on the side of the car's trans. tunnel. The trans will then mount in and keep the driveshaft the same length.
The next task is to fit a set of pedals from a 2000 that allow a clutch pedal to be used. The pedal brackets interchange and the 2000 ones bolt in, but the cylinder bracket on the firewall will need to be altered to line the pedals up with their respective master cylinders. The inner fender cannot be altered to make space for a clutch slave cylinder because the front coil spring for the suspension is on the other side of it, and very close. Space is tight for the cylinders side by side and the exhaust manifold is not far away either. Use a Rover 2000 clutch master cylinder which needs its own remote reservoir.
In order to move the brake master cylinder and fit a clutch slave do as follows. Remove the cylinder bracket from the firewall and mount the pedals from a 2000 inside the car. Note where the pushrod protrudes through the firewall and cut the opening in the car's body where the pushrods pass through. This will make space for the clutch pushrod to pass through the firewall hole.
On the cylinder mounting plate, cut the brake master cylinder's spacer tube from the flat mounting plate. Plan to move the tubular bracket that holds the brake master cylinder towards the centerline of the car on LHD models. Determine a location to line up the cylinder with brake master's pushrod. Reweld the spacer tube to the plate keeping the same inclination for the cylinder.
Fabricate a similar looking spacer tube for the clutch master cylinder to mount to. Weld it to the mounting plate allowing the pushrod to line up to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe is a useful material to make the spacer tube from. The brake master and spacer tube assembly will need to be moved sideways enough to allow space for a clutch master cylinder and spacer tube to be welded to the flat base plate. The clutch's spacer tube that needs to be made can be mounted in line laterally with the clutch pedal's pushrod.
The cylinders when mounted in the car should be mounted at the incline that keeps them parallel to the pushrod that they are connected to.
This is confusing to describe without a photo, but think in 3 dimensions and either work with or be a good fabricator. Get the parts needed for this portion of the project such as the pedals and slave cylinder from a 2000 and a foot of exhaust pipe of a suitable diameter. Next hold the clutch master cytinder up to the car's firewall in the engine compartment and visualize the limited space and small tolerences that you will need to work in.
If you get the mounting bracket alterations completed, you will be one of the elite few that have achieved this!!! I have completed this trans conversion job on two different cars. The cars are very rewarding to drive with the 5 speed installed. See photos of a 1970 3500S with a 5 speed on my website. www dot gbservicesusa dot com. I own a restoration shop that specializes in 50s to 80s british cars as well as imports from other countries. Contact me off rovernet if you have any questions. gbbourque at gmail.com.
Good Luck with your cars everybody!!!
Garrett Bourque
GB Services Auto Restoration
Jefferson, Maine USA
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
Hi all........
Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1 transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you can give me a good description or better yet a picture or diagram it would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another Rover on the road properly
Thanks
Bill Robertson
CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99 before Jan 3! Buy it now!
Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default-ga.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009
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From rovercar at comcast.net Fri Oct 23 19:24:07 2009
From: rovercar at comcast.net (Glen Wilson)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:24:07 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <SNT108-W2035EF45B9D4694025BC3BA1BD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl> <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W2035EF45B9D4694025BC3BA1BD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AE23B17.1000301@comcast.net>
Garrett,
What is the URL of your website?
Glen
bourque wrote:
> Hello Rovernet,
> There has been "snow on the pumpkin" within days of the first "frost
> on the pumpkin"! The weather has been bizarre this (not) summer!
> Anyway, I got off on a tangent explaining the pedal conversion info,
> but had not written anything in a while. Some directions for certain
> products that you read are so poor that you cannot even understand
> them, so I thought I would try my hand at it!
> My customer's 3500s shown on my website has a 5 speed conversion
> and will be ready for delivery to him soon, after undergoing a very
> comprehensive restoration. Thanks for your input on my writing!!
> Garrett
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:16:59 -0400
> From: rovercar at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
>
> Say, anyone ever hear of this Garrett Bourque fellow? Kent, does this
> guy even have a clue?
>
> ;-)
>
> Garrett's sort of the authority on this. Aren't there some good
> diagrams of much of this in one of the P6 books? I've been here a year
> but haven't unpacked all of my Rover books, yet or I would look it up.
> I think it was the brown 3500 article book.
>
> Glen
>
> PS Snow up there yet, Garrett?
>
> garrett bourque wrote:
>
> Hello Rovernet,
> In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are
> several alterations to parts that have to take place. Use the
> original SD1 trans mount and pressed steel crossmember but alter
> it. It will need to be shortened at both ends and flattened out.
> Next, drill holes in it to match the mounting points on the side
> of the car's trans. tunnel. The trans will then mount in and keep
> the driveshaft the same length.
> The next task is to fit a set of pedals from a 2000 that allow
> a clutch pedal to be used. The pedal brackets interchange and the
> 2000 ones bolt in, but the cylinder bracket on the firewall will
> need to be altered to line the pedals up with their
> respective master cylinders. The inner fender cannot be altered
> to make space for a clutch slave cylinder because the front coil
> spring for the suspension is on the other side of it, and very
> close. Space is tight for the cylinders side by side and the
> exhaust manifold is not far away either. Use a Rover 2000 clutch
> master cylinder which needs its own remote reservoir.
> In order to move the brake master cylinder and fit a clutch
> slave do as follows. Remove the cylinder bracket from the
> firewall and mount the pedals from a 2000 inside the car. Note
> where the pushrod protrudes through the firewall and cut the
> opening in the car's body where the pushrods pass through. This
> will make space for the clutch pushrod to pass through the
> firewall hole.
> On the cylinder mounting plate, cut the brake master
> cylinder's spacer tube from the flat mounting plate. Plan to move
> the tubular bracket that holds the brake master cylinder towards
> the centerline of the car on LHD models. Determine a location to
> line up the cylinder with brake master's pushrod. Reweld the
> spacer tube to the plate keeping the same inclination for the
> cylinder.
> Fabricate a similar looking spacer tube for the clutch master
> cylinder to mount to. Weld it to the mounting plate allowing the
> pushrod to line up to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe is a useful
> material to make the spacer tube from. The brake master and
> spacer tube assembly will need to be moved sideways enough to
> allow space for a clutch master cylinder and spacer tube to be
> welded to the flat base plate. The clutch's spacer tube that
> needs to be made can be mounted in line laterally with the clutch
> pedal's pushrod.
> The cylinders when mounted in the car should be mounted at the
> incline that keeps them parallel to the pushrod that they are
> connected to.
>
> This is confusing to describe without a photo, but think in 3
> dimensions and either work with or be a good fabricator. Get the
> parts needed for this portion of the project such as the pedals
> and slave cylinder from a 2000 and a foot of exhaust pipe of a
> suitable diameter. Next hold the clutch master cytinder up to the
> car's firewall in the engine compartment and visualize the limited
> space and small tolerences that you will need to work in.
> If you get the mounting bracket alterations completed, you will
> be one of the elite few that have achieved this!!! I have
> completed this trans conversion job on two different cars. The
> cars are very rewarding to drive with the 5 speed installed. See
> photos of a 1970 3500S with a 5 speed on my website. www dot
> gbservicesusa dot com. I own a restoration shop that specializes
> in 50s to 80s british cars as well as imports from other
> countries. Contact me off rovernet if you have any questions.
> gbbourque at gmail.com.
>
> Good Luck with your cars everybody!!!
> Garrett Bourque
> GB Services Auto Restoration
> Jefferson, Maine USA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com <mailto:rover2000nut at hotmail.com>
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca <mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
>
> Hi all........
> Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1
> transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the
> trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft
> ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If
> you can give me a good description or better yet a picture or
> diagram it would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly
> to get another Rover on the road properly
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99
> before Jan 3! Buy it now! <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691632>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
> <http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default-ga.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca <mailto:Rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
> <http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From jaguru at bellsouth.net Fri Oct 23 21:13:19 2009
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (James Dean)
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:13:19 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 gearbox con't
References: <BAY119-W32891F035DECA58031F36BDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00d001ca5447$2d2bb210$6101a8c0@toshibauser>
I have a 3500S for sale that has an SD1 5 speed installed, and has a rebuilt British spec 3.5 engine. It as an edelbrock/Offenhauser carb,inlet manifold . It was put together by a knowledgeable enthusiast, and was a Palm beach Florida car,so has very little rust. When I drove it, it was the fastest Rover I have ever driven; but now it just sits in my warehouse. It needs paint and general restoration, but might be a lot cheaper than modifying what you have. Ac has been removed, and manual doors fitted. I am in Ft. Lauderdale, and can arrange shipping, including worldwide, as this is a seaport city. Please contact me at jaguru at bellsouth.net or cell any time 1954JAGPART. Thank you,James Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Robertson
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 11:06 AM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 gearbox con't
Hi all........
I'm not trying to put one (SD1 gearbox)in the car..........it was installed 10 years ago in his 3500S but with a basterdized mount for the rear of the gearbox and that has broken and is irrepairable......It was also always vibrating terribly since it had no rubber mount......He'd like to put a proper type mount , or something that has some cushioning effect in.........I'd like Kent's idea of an SD1 gearbox mount that is modified..........I'd never seen one but looking at Rimmers catalog online, it appears rectangular with the top mount looking like it could be modified relatively easy to fit the P6 tunnel mounting holes ............Yes i have a Toyota Supra 5 speed available to me so at a much later date, i'll give that a go
Thanks for all the responses
Bill Robertson
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Save up to 84% on Windows 7 until Jan 3-eligible CDN College or University students only. Hurry-buy it now for $39.99!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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From peter_m at amnet.net.au Sat Oct 24 09:51:54 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 21:51:54 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6B and ZF auto transmission swaps
In-Reply-To: <SNT108-W2035EF45B9D4694025BC3BA1BD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl> <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W2035EF45B9D4694025BC3BA1BD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003a01ca54b1$26005120$7200f360$@net.au>
There are a number of interesting comments and articles on swapping ZF HP
22/24 transmissions into P6Bs, on the P6 Rover Owners website,
http://www.p6roc.co.uk/
Click on 'Forum' then on 'Transmissions', and start reading; there are some
good illustrative photographs also.
Regards,
Peter Mitchell
Western Australia
E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.13550
http://www.pctools.com/en/internet-security/
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From peter_m at amnet.net.au Sat Oct 24 10:24:08 2009
From: peter_m at amnet.net.au (Peter Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 22:24:08 +0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6B and ZF auto transmission swaps-
additional info
In-Reply-To: <003a01ca54b1$26005120$7200f360$@net.au>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl> <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl> <SNT108-W2035EF45B9D4694025BC3BA1BD0@phx.gbl>
<003a01ca54b1$26005120$7200f360$@net.au>
Message-ID: <004501ca54b5$a60acd60$f2206820$@net.au>
I should have been a little clearer in my earlier message...
Once you are in the P6ROC site http://www.p6roc.co.uk/ , go to 'Forum' as I
said earlier, but then read down the list and select 'Gearboxes'.
The 9th Posting down, reads 'Choices for new gearboxes for P6B's'. This was
the is well worth reading and there are photos also.
Cheers
Peter Mitchell
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Peter Mitchell
Sent: Saturday, 24 October 2009 9:52 PM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6B and ZF auto transmission swaps
There are a number of interesting comments and articles on swapping ZF HP
22/24 transmissions into P6Bs, on the P6 Rover Owners website,
http://www.p6roc.co.uk/
Click on 'Forum' then on 'Transmissions', and start reading; there are some
good illustrative photographs also.
Regards,
Peter Mitchell
Western Australia
E-mail message checked by Internet Security (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.13550
http://www.pctools.com/en/internet-security/
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From kkinard at att.net Sat Oct 24 17:56:13 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 16:56:13 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 gearbox con't
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-W32891F035DECA58031F36BDEBD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W32891F035DECA58031F36BDEBD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4AE377FD.7000005@att.net>
Bill Robertson wrote:
Hi Bill,
I will send you pics off list. The car I have uses a modified SD1
crossmember, but I don't think it is properly done...crossmember was
just shortened and another hole drilled in it on each side. The holes
line up with the BW35 mounting holes/brackets on the floorpan/trans
tunnel and a long bolt with larger nuts as spacers inserted on each
side. (see pics) Properly done, a box section should be added to the
crossmember so that a shorter bolt of larger diameter could be used on
either side (a fairly simple task). I included two pics of SD1
crossmember uncut also. Two separate emails because the pics are large.
Anyone else interested? Email me off list.
Roverly,
Kent K.
> Hi all........
> I'm not trying to put one (SD1 gearbox)in the
> car..........it was installed 10 years ago in his 3500S but with a
> basterdized mount for the rear of the gearbox and that has broken and
> is irrepairable......It was also always vibrating terribly since it
> had no rubber mount......He'd like to put a proper type mount , or
> something that has some cushioning effect in.........I'd like Kent's
> idea of an SD1 gearbox mount that is modified..........I'd never seen
> one but looking at Rimmers catalog online, it appears rectangular
> with the top mount looking like it could be modified relatively easy
> to fit the P6 tunnel mounting holes ............Yes i have a Toyota
> Supra 5 speed available to me so at a much later date, i'll give that
> a go
> Thanks for all the responses
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Save up to 84% on Windows 7 until Jan 3-eligible CDN College or
> University students only. Hurry-buy it now for $39.99!
> <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691631>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Oct 25 08:41:26 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 08:41:26 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Steel wheel repair?
Message-ID: <bc2.54166ac8.3815a176@aol.com>
G'Day,
How did my delayed post on sorting out bent steel wheels in
the '70's, get replied to with re Sleeving of Brake Cylinders ??? .
Ruth, any other Ladies and Gentlemen, I am always late on catching up
on any mail, "e" , snail or otherwise but I'll get in here to save Eric some
grief.
First, aren't we supposed to reply to individual posts instead of
Digests so as to save unnessary text.
Second, replying to indivual posts means that we stay on subject. I
think that helps the archive process.
I may have offended in the past, please accept my appologies.
Generally I send non-work email in what I can only describe as " Non Fatigue
Controlled Hours". That is why I get behind. Enough.
Eric would like replies to digests to end and replies to stay on
subject. Then again, I am making presumptions ahead of our moderator. If he has
any corrections over the above, I expect he will comment.
Me, I am burnt out again. Watched the first Non Indy Car GP on the
Tube down the Coast this weekend. Real Pity there is not a Rover amongst
them. A rear wheel drive MG Sedan fits the rules for the next couple of years.
Could have been the third Brand.
Regards,
MWJ.
P.S. Sorry Ruth and other Ladies about putting your names first. That
is the ettiquette as I understand it. MWJ
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Sun Oct 25 09:27:40 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:57:40 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Email Nettiquette [WAS: Steel wheel
repair?]
In-Reply-To: <bc2.54166ac8.3815a176@aol.com>
References: <bc2.54166ac8.3815a176@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4AE4524C.1080305@ozemail.com.au>
MarkCoorparoo at aol.com wrote:
<snip>
> First, aren't we supposed to reply to individual posts instead of
> Digests so as to save unnessary text.
If replying to digests, you should quote only the relevant text, not regurgitate the whole digest.
> Second, replying to indivual posts means that we stay on subject. I
> think that helps the archive process.
And/or change the subject line to reflect any change in emphasis/topic.
;-))
<snip>
Dave
South Oz
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Oct 25 12:13:33 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 09:13:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] WAS:Steel wheel repair? now Preferred
use of Digest
In-Reply-To: <bc2.54166ac8.3815a176@aol.com>
References: <bc2.54166ac8.3815a176@aol.com>
Message-ID: <773787.64711.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Since I am mentioned is dispatches on the use of the "Digest Mode", I would first?refer to public references on the subject of "Netiquette":
http://lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
http://www.mindhub.org/netiquette.html
Essentially, there is a request to digest users:
1. We maintain archives which people use to research information on topics of interest. The subject line of each header does not give information on any particular topic.
2. If a digest user spots a topic in a digest to which he would like to reply, hits "Reply" and just starts writing, the email ends up in the archives just saying something like "Here's an archive message from such and such a date". There is no record of what the message is really about. It *could* contain something *really* useful to a researcher.
3. Request:
If you receive a digest and spot a topic?to which you'd like to reply:
* Use your computer mouse and button (PC - left) to highlight all the text in the message that does not apply and delete it. Locate your topic and preserve the first part of the message and delete the rest.
* Type your reply
* Go to the Subject Line: highlight and delete the whole thing. Replace the subect with?the topic which interested you?in the digest.
Then hit: REPLY
You will help create a useful message on a useful mailing list.
Eric
?"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Mon Oct 26 07:44:36 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:44:36 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
Message-ID: <d08.65962795.3816e5a4@aol.com>
Hi Glen in South Oz and Everyone Else,
Just love Garrett's
Recipe for brewing up LT77, Do It Yourself GearBox, P6b.
In a previous life, I knew Robbo from Gabba Gearboxes in Brisbone. I am
pretty sure he told me that he had done some of these, that is Toyota into
P6b. He had done many Toyota "Iron Case" boxes into 5 Litre Commodores but
the 2 Litre box even when modified, just wasn't up to the Holden V8. It
could just cope with 3.5 Rover P6b loads provided you didn't have a tow-bar and
only ever put small children on the back seat. Also, you had to be a very
comfortable fit behind the Wheel without any wheel or thigh rub. And, if you
took your pants off, the Missus or anyone else who wanted to get in the
front passenger seat, had to be able to wear them.
I drove a couple of 5 Litre Commodores with Iron Case Celica boxes
before Holden got their own 5 Speed and the Ratios were absolutely Perfect.
Pretty sure with a 3.08 to 1 diff. Wonderful to drive as per Garretts
description of P6b - LT77. A group of people trading as Dellow, with a factory in
the Suburb of Revesby, Sydney, NSW, Australia made all the Un-Obtainable bits.
For the P6b 5 Speed RHD version the boys basically followed Garetts Recipe
but with bits extracted from wrecking yard P6 4's and the Dellow bits.
There were a lot of P6 4's in wrecking yards back 20 - 25 years ago.
The early Celica box was an alloy ClamShell Alfa stlyled thing. The
late Alfa boxes of this style could take lots of herbs and are probably the box
of choice for a 5 speed P6 four. I used to know a few blokes who slapped
them around a bit for a morning and an afternoon in October, on this hill in
NSW.
Now to start bolting this stuff on the back of a V8. The Clam Shell has
major end float setup probs.. So the Iron Case starts to become the Toyota
of choice. However some of its bearings are too small, so Robbo had some
tricks, special bearings, etc. Also there were issues with the Lay Shaft being
too close to the main shaft and the gears were just too narrow ( a bit like
TR7 LT 77's ). So the Iron Case Celica was a good solution for P6b's but
Holden V8's, no.
Then, the "Supra" boxes started to arrive from Wrecking Yards. I'll
leave this for now with only the comment that Dellow made kits to bolt these
things on the back of Jag V12's. Scary stuff. I would like a very large
scatter shield.
No, one last comment, make your investigations on Supra Boxes of the
various types, and then make your choices. A Supra Box could be the right thing
for a P6b with herbs.
It is a while since I have checked Dellow's site but I am sure they have
stuff to bolt Supra to SD1, so P6b is feasible. With Garretts LHD stuff and
Rangie 4.6 crossbolt , some one might build a real quick P6b.
I'm Stuffed.
Regards,
MWJ.
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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Mon Oct 26 08:29:47 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 08:29:47 EDT
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Supra [was SD1 trans in P6]
Message-ID: <d41.50348140.3816f03b@aol.com>
Hi,
Didn't Kent sort some years back? 4 - 5 Speed GM Auto's ?
If I can get my act together, my project will be the 6 or 7 speed ZF's
that have gone into Late Aussie Falcon's. They will start appearing soon in
wrecking yards. I just hope no one gets too badly hurt for one to appear.
they are valuable.
From what I have been told told the ZF's are seamless in their shifting
with the lock - un-lock convertor. Closest thing to the Audi 2 Litre
Constant Speed DAF Style gearbox. ( The Chain in the Audi Box just can't take a
lot of load. ). Also the Audi box is huge for its Torque capacity. A 2 Litre
gearbox.
The various 4 -5 speed autos, some years back this forum was trying to
work out ways of making them work. The electronics were the problem. On
another Forum I have mentioned Leo Simpson's Aussie "Silicon Chip" magazine and
the JayCar Kits that appear there. I remember a kit that makes a non
electronic lock up gear box work with a electronic lock up lock up engine. That is
special. And Cheep !!
Burning Out, are we on Autos, or Do It YourSelf Gear Boxes.
Hope to catch up soon.
Regards,
MWJ.
P.S. I have heard that the Falcon ZF's can handle Mountain Motor
Grunt.... Just raise the Line Pressure. Might have to exchange part of my Brain
with that Valve Body.
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From kkinard at att.net Mon Oct 26 21:44:07 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 20:44:07 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas Rover Ranch
Message-ID: <4AE65067.2040902@att.net>
Hi Netters,
I have discovered two more batches of stickers:
165HR15 tyre pressure sticker (5 only)
Rover-British Leyland patents sticker (6 only)
Free if you send me a picture of the car you're going to put it on.
First email, first served.
Rovereplacementstickerly,
Kent K.
From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Tue Oct 27 19:09:58 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 20:09:58 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
Conversions on Tachometers
References: <1698606452.4740041255704993059.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP3265F4B02BC69096AA247695B90@phx.gbl>
Hi Slats
There is an interesting article in the October issue of Practical Classics page 79. Not Petronix but same tach problem. It states there is only one tach we know that has difficulty with electronic coil switching systems, the Smiths RV1. It can be sent away to be reworked but its easier to install an RVC tach. I tried to access the www.lumenition.com but the page was down. Any idea what cars use the RVC and if its same size and design as the RV1
Cheers Ben
*************
Interested in Submarines,Antique cars,VW Westfalia's, Dogs, HMS Ganges, Royal Navy?
then
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From den at aachenkennels.com Tue Oct 27 19:49:27 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 08:49:27 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Cross post
References: <mailman.5.1256659220.6135.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698D3@Server.adoptsec.local>
What's the rules if we want to cross post to another list. There is a
list called RoverAustralia on Yahoo that I would like to send the
details of these stickers to.
I thought about sending the topic on Oils as I found that very
interesting however don't want to break any rules.
In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 20:44:07 -0500
From: Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas Rover
Ranch
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <4AE65067.2040902 at att.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Hi Netters,
I have discovered two more batches of stickers:
165HR15 tyre pressure sticker (5 only)
Rover-British Leyland patents sticker (6 only)
Free if you send me a picture of the car you're going to put it on.
First email, first served.
Rovereplacementstickerly,
Kent K.
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 16, Issue 25
****************************************
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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10/27/09 15:38:00
From slatskars at comcast.net Tue Oct 27 20:44:42 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 00:44:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Affect of Electronic Ignition
Conversions on Tachometers
In-Reply-To: <536796354.1375991256690501579.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <377601125.1377371256690682959.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Hi Ben,
The RVC 1410 series was used in some of the later MGB's. It is a 3 inch instrument and is solid state, meaning that it does not use a coil at all. The connections are different, but even simpler than an RVI. Four inch models are available also. MT 1974 has a 3" RVC 1410, whereas my 1971 MGBGT has an RVI 1433. So, I would guess that the switch was probably 1972 or 1973. I know that the 1973 and 1974 are virtual twins in all respects except the date of manufacture and the bumper over-riders. There was also an RVI 1419 that was used from I belive 1965 through 1967. It was positive ground but could be switched. It had an external loop coil arrangement. For 1979 and 1980 MGB went back to a 4" tach which would also be an RVC unit. I belive the number for those was a RVC 2432. Hope this helps.
You could always try removing one of the coils from your existing one and if that fails, replace it. If yours is a 3" unit, then there is a strong chance that a RVC 1410 will just drop in.
Slats
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From peterhut at activ8.net.au Tue Oct 27 20:58:46 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter H)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:58:46 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Cross post
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698D3@Server.adoptsec.local>
References: <mailman.5.1256659220.6135.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698D3@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <8l5fe59djl9715fvolloq5oq8p7uha6hhg@4ax.com>
On Wed, 28 Oct 2009 08:49:27 +0900, you wrote:
>What's the rules if we want to cross post to another list. There is a
>list called RoverAustralia on Yahoo that I would like to send the
>details of these stickers to.
That's me, or shd I say it is the Rover Car Club of Australia of which
I am webbie and moderator.
Send me an email off list, I have not been following this discussion,
so let me know what it is you have available.
Cheers,
Peter Huttemeier
Webmaster
Rover Car Club of Australia Inc
http://www.rovercarclubaust.asn.au/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rccapics/
From slatskars at comcast.net Thu Oct 29 12:50:40 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:50:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under
Message-ID: <100914772.2114951256835040720.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
I have a friend working on a TC, that is MGTC, that needs to have a steering column shipped from the land of OZ. He asked me if I knew of the best (least expensive) method. As many of you folks are from Australia and others of this group do have items shipped from there, can I have a recommendation? He can have it delivered in Portland, OR or Vancouver, WA.
Thanks in advance,
Slats
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From gbbourque at gmail.com Thu Oct 29 11:50:06 2009
From: gbbourque at gmail.com (garrett bourque)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:50:06 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <982f148d0910290850m7cf4ca98l206e6d727f22341e@mail.gmail.com>
Hello Rovernetters,
I have had trouble getting in touch with rovernet to update my email
address. The new one is gbbourque at gmail.com. Please sign me up for
Rovernet and direct the email to this address.
Thankyou,
Garrett Bourque
Jefferson, Maine
On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 12:37 AM, garrett bourque <gbbourque at hotmail.com>wrote:
> Hello Rovernet,
> In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are several
> alterations to parts that have to take place. Use the original SD1 trans
> mount and pressed steel crossmember but alter it. It will need to be
> shortened at both ends and flattened out. Next, drill holes in it to match
> the mounting points on the side of the car's trans. tunnel. The trans will
> then mount in and keep the driveshaft the same length.
> The next task is to fit a set of pedals from a 2000 that allow a clutch
> pedal to be used. The pedal brackets interchange and the 2000 ones bolt in,
> but the cylinder bracket on the firewall will need to be altered to line the
> pedals up with their respective master cylinders. The inner fender cannot
> be altered to make space for a clutch slave cylinder because the front coil
> spring for the suspension is on the other side of it, and very close. Space
> is tight for the cylinders side by side and the exhaust manifold is not far
> away either. Use a Rover 2000 clutch master cylinder which needs its own
> remote reservoir.
> In order to move the brake master cylinder and fit a clutch slave do as
> follows. Remove the cylinder bracket from the firewall and mount the pedals
> from a 2000 inside the car. Note where the pushrod protrudes through the
> firewall and cut the opening in the car's body where the pushrods pass
> through. This will make space for the clutch pushrod to pass through the
> firewall hole.
> On the cylinder mounting plate, cut the brake master cylinder's
> spacer tube from the flat mounting plate. Plan to move the tubular bracket
> that holds the brake master cylinder towards the centerline of the car on
> LHD models. Determine a location to line up the cylinder with brake
> master's pushrod. Reweld the spacer tube to the plate keeping the same
> inclination for the cylinder.
> Fabricate a similar looking spacer tube for the clutch master cylinder
> to mount to. Weld it to the mounting plate allowing the pushrod to line up
> to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe is a useful material to make the spacer tube
> from. The brake master and spacer tube assembly will need to be moved
> sideways enough to allow space for a clutch master cylinder and spacer
> tube to be welded to the flat base plate. The clutch's spacer tube that
> needs to be made can be mounted in line laterally with the clutch pedal's
> pushrod.
> The cylinders when mounted in the car should be mounted at the incline
> that keeps them parallel to the pushrod that they are connected to.
>
> This is confusing to describe without a photo, but think in 3 dimensions
> and either work with or be a good fabricator. Get the parts needed for this
> portion of the project such as the pedals and slave cylinder from a 2000 and
> a foot of exhaust pipe of a suitable diameter. Next hold the clutch master
> cytinder up to the car's firewall in the engine compartment and visualize
> the limited space and small tolerences that you will need to work in.
> If you get the mounting bracket alterations completed, you will be one
> of the elite few that have achieved this!!! I have completed this trans
> conversion job on two different cars. The cars are very rewarding to drive
> with the 5 speed installed. See photos of a 1970 3500S with a 5 speed on my
> website. www dot gbservicesusa dot com. I own a restoration shop that
> specializes in 50s to 80s british cars as well as imports from other
> countries. Contact me off rovernet if you have any questions. gbbourque at
> gmail.com.
>
> Good Luck with your cars everybody!!!
> Garrett Bourque
> GB Services Auto Restoration
> Jefferson, Maine USA
>
> ------------------------------
> From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
>
> Hi all........
> Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1
> transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the trans in
> and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft ....just a
> makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you can give me a
> good description or better yet a picture or diagram it would be much
> appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another Rover on the road
> properly
> Thanks
> Bill Robertson
>
> ------------------------------
> CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99 before Jan
> 3! Buy it now! <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691632>
> ------------------------------
> Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!<http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default-ga.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009>
>
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Thu Oct 29 18:48:57 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:48:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
In-Reply-To: <982f148d0910290850m7cf4ca98l206e6d727f22341e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BAY119-W48DF00163F1CBA203F1BAFDEBD0@phx.gbl>
<SNT108-W19F142ED4D7E5FAAC2ECB7A1BD0@phx.gbl>
<982f148d0910290850m7cf4ca98l206e6d727f22341e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <120283.6369.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Already sorted.
ER
"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
________________________________
From: garrett bourque <gbbourque at gmail.com>
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca; gbbourque at gmail.com
Sent: Thu, October 29, 2009 8:50:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
Hello Rovernetters,
I have had trouble getting in touch with rovernet to update my email address. The new one is gbbourque at gmail.com. Please sign me up for Rovernet and direct the email to this address.
Thankyou,
Garrett Bourque
Jefferson, Maine
On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 12:37 AM, garrett bourque <gbbourque at hotmail.com> wrote:
Hello Rovernet,
> In order to fit a trans from an SD1 into a 1970 3500S, there are several alterations to parts that have to take place. Use the original SD1 trans mount and pressed steel crossmember but alter it. It will need to be shortened at both ends and flattened out. Next, drill holes in it to match the mounting points on the side of the car's trans. tunnel. The trans will then mount in and keep the driveshaft the same length.
>> The next task is to fit a set of pedals from a 2000 that allow a clutch pedal to be used. The pedal brackets interchange and the 2000 ones bolt in, but the cylinder bracket on the firewall will need to be altered to line the pedals up with their respective master cylinders. The inner fender cannot be altered to make space for a clutch slave cylinder because the front coil spring for the suspension is on the other side of it, and very close. Space is tight for the cylinders side by side and the exhaust manifold is not far away either. Use a Rover 2000 clutch master cylinder which needs its own remote reservoir.
>> In order to move the brake master cylinder and fit a clutch slave do as follows. Remove the cylinder bracket from the firewall and mount the pedals from a 2000 inside the car. Note where the pushrod protrudes through the firewall and cut the opening in the car's body where the pushrods pass through. This will make space for the clutch pushrod to pass through the firewall hole.
>> On the cylinder mounting plate, cut the brake master cylinder's spacer tube from the flat mounting plate. Plan to move the tubular bracket that holds the brake master cylinder towards the centerline of the car on LHD models. Determine a location to line up the cylinder with brake master's pushrod. Reweld the spacer tube to the plate keeping the same inclination for the cylinder.
>> Fabricate a similar looking spacer tube for the clutch master cylinder to mount to. Weld it to the mounting plate allowing the pushrod to line up to the cylinder. Exhaust pipe is a useful material to make the spacer tube from. The brake master and spacer tube assembly will need to be moved sideways enough to allow space for a clutch master cylinder and spacer tube to be welded to the flat base plate. The clutch's spacer tube that needs to be made can be mounted in line laterally with the clutch pedal's pushrod.
>> The cylinders when mounted in the car should be mounted at the incline that keeps them parallel to the pushrod that they are connected to.
>
> This is confusing to describe without a photo, but think in 3 dimensions and either work with or be a good fabricator. Get the parts needed for this portion of the project such as the pedals and slave cylinder from a 2000 and a foot of exhaust pipe of a suitable diameter. Next hold the clutch master cytinder up to the car's firewall in the engine compartment and visualize the limited space and small tolerences that you will need to work in.
>> If you get the mounting bracket alterations completed, you will be one of the elite few that have achieved this!!! I have completed this trans conversion job on two different cars. The cars are very rewarding to drive with the 5 speed installed. See photos of a 1970 3500S with a 5 speed on my website. www dot gbservicesusa dot com. I own a restoration shop that specializes in 50s to 80s british cars as well as imports from other countries. Contact me off rovernet if you have any questions. gbbourque at gmail.com.
>>
>Good Luck with your cars everybody!!!
>Garrett Bourque
>GB Services Auto Restoration
>Jefferson, Maine USA
>
>________________________________
>From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com
>To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:21:05 +0000
>>Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] SD1 trans in P6
>
>Hi all........
> Does anyone know what is needed to mount an SD1 transmission in a 3500S NADA............My friend has one with the trans in and working but it is not mounted right at the tail shaft ....just a makeshift piece and it vibrates excessively..........If you can give me a good description or better yet a picture or diagram it would be much appreciated so i can fix him up properly to get another Rover on the road properly
>>Thanks
>Bill Robertson
>
>________________________________
>CDN College or University student? Get Windows 7 for only $39.99 before Jan 3! Buy it now!
>________________________________
>Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. Wow!
__________________________________________________________________
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From den at aachenkennels.com Thu Oct 29 20:12:06 2009
From: den at aachenkennels.com (Dennis Gallacher)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 09:12:06 +0900
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under (
References: <mailman.26.1256856535.12616.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698FA@Server.adoptsec.local>
Tell him to contact ' http://www.xsbagsandboxes.com.au/ ' I've used
them many times to get car bits over to UK for refurbishment, super nice
people and good back up if something goes wrong.
In war there are no unwounded soldiers.
Den Gallacher
From peterhut at activ8.net.au Thu Oct 29 23:08:56 2009
From: peterhut at activ8.net.au (Peter H)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 14:08:56 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under
In-Reply-To: <100914772.2114951256835040720.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <100914772.2114951256835040720.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <13mke5d26s6nchfr5hajpc3i4hobole3fp@4ax.com>
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:50:40 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
>
>I have a friend working on a TC, that is MGTC, that needs to have a steering column shipped from the land of OZ. He asked me if I knew of the best (least expensive) method.
How heavy is it? If under 20kg normal post is probably cheapest. Ask
the seller very nicely to arrange postage.
Cheers,
Peter H
From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Fri Oct 30 00:20:14 2009
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:20:14 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
Message-ID: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
I am looking for some help please. My P6B has been ignored lately mainly due
to household renovations although I have started her up periodically. There
has been some issues with the battery which seemed to lose all its charge
during these periods of neglect but on charging up seemed OK. That was until
recently when it didn't appear to charge up at all. I attempted to start the
car with jumper leads from my Freelander but all I got was a loud
rat-a-tat-a-tat noise (does that make sense?). I thought that might be the
starter motor; does that sound right? The only other contributing factor
might be that a while ago I had trouble starting the car (no sound at all)
and I traced it to the inhibitor switch on the gearbox. I had a spare
gearbox and took the switch off that and it appeared to solve the problem. I
hope that some of you wise gentlemen may have some ideas for me. Thanks.
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Melbourne, Australia
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 30 00:27:05 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:27:05 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
In-Reply-To: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
References: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <DA2C78BA36664CF095831982815207A7@Vista>
Yes it makes sense.
If the battery voltage is inadequate you can get the ratatatat.
Try the freelander battery without the existing P6B battery.
Lead-acid batteries don't like being heavily discharged often, so it is likely it has ceased.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Wilkins
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
I am looking for some help please. My P6B has been ignored lately mainly due to household renovations although I have started her up periodically. There has been some issues with the battery which seemed to lose all its charge during these periods of neglect but on charging up seemed OK. That was until recently when it didn't appear to charge up at all. I attempted to start the car with jumper leads from my Freelander but all I got was a loud rat-a-tat-a-tat noise (does that make sense?). I thought that might be the starter motor; does that sound right? The only other contributing factor might be that a while ago I had trouble starting the car (no sound at all) and I traced it to the inhibitor switch on the gearbox. I had a spare gearbox and took the switch off that and it appeared to solve the problem. I hope that some of you wise gentlemen may have some ideas for me. Thanks.
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Melbourne, Australia
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com Fri Oct 30 00:36:34 2009
From: raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com (Ray Wilkins)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:36:34 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
In-Reply-To: <DA2C78BA36664CF095831982815207A7@Vista>
References: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
<DA2C78BA36664CF095831982815207A7@Vista>
Message-ID: <001101ca591a$8fe9b3c0$afbd1b40$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
Thanks for that but the rat-a-tat-a-tat came while trying to start with the
jumper leads from the Freelander while it was running so I assume it was
pumping out the maximum voltage (there is no issue with the Freelander
battery). I did try without the old battery connected with the same results.
Ray
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Netspace
Sent: Friday, 30 October 2009 3:27 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
Yes it makes sense.
If the battery voltage is inadequate you can get the ratatatat.
Try the freelander battery without the existing P6B battery.
Lead-acid batteries don't like being heavily discharged often, so it is
likely it has ceased.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray <mailto:raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com> Wilkins
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
<mailto:rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
I am looking for some help please. My P6B has been ignored lately mainly due
to household renovations although I have started her up periodically. There
has been some issues with the battery which seemed to lose all its charge
during these periods of neglect but on charging up seemed OK. That was until
recently when it didn't appear to charge up at all. I attempted to start the
car with jumper leads from my Freelander but all I got was a loud
rat-a-tat-a-tat noise (does that make sense?). I thought that might be the
starter motor; does that sound right? The only other contributing factor
might be that a while ago I had trouble starting the car (no sound at all)
and I traced it to the inhibitor switch on the gearbox. I had a spare
gearbox and took the switch off that and it appeared to solve the problem. I
hope that some of you wise gentlemen may have some ideas for me. Thanks.
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Melbourne, Australia
_____
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.698 / Virus Database: 270.14.39/2468 - Release Date: 10/30/09
06:49:00
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From gofanu at cust.usachoice.net Fri Oct 30 01:00:11 2009
From: gofanu at cust.usachoice.net (Fletcher Millmore)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 01:00:11 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] No start Ray
In-Reply-To: <mailman.28.1256877426.12616.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.28.1256877426.12616.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <4AEA72DB.5050202@usachoice.net>
rovernet-request at rovernet.ca wrote:
> Thanks for that but the rat-a-tat-a-tat came while trying to start with the
> jumper leads from the Freelander while it was running so I assume it was
> pumping out the maximum voltage (there is no issue with the Freelander
> battery). I did try without the old battery connected with the same results.
>
"low battery voltage" means anything that causes the delivered voltage
at the starter to be low. Could be a DOA batt, or bad connections
anywhere up to the starter. Since it did it on jump, check all cable
connections, by removing, cleaning thoroughly to bare shiny metal,
greasing, and reinstalling. The ratatatata is the solenoid engaging,
then dropping out as it pulls the voltage down through the high
resistance. The voltage then goes up enough to pull the solenoid in
again, repeat, repeat. Or the starter is DOA, but that is not common.
Jumpers can also do it, since the clamp connections are often terrible.
FRM
>
>
From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Oct 30 01:17:45 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 05:17:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under (
In-Reply-To: <73D9BF72DC20B0488083C198B9B2FD160698FA@Server.adoptsec.local>
Message-ID: <1778564641.2444051256879865955.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Thanks Dennis,
I passed the information on .
Slats
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From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Oct 30 01:22:59 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 05:22:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under
In-Reply-To: <13mke5d26s6nchfr5hajpc3i4hobole3fp@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <1478157606.2444931256880179911.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Thanks for the reply Peter. He had checked with DHL and they were exorbitant. Will tell him to try postage. It is under 14 kg.
Slats
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Fri Oct 30 01:37:12 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 22:37:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
In-Reply-To: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
References: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <743407.95217.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Hopefully, your ground connection from the battery is attached to the engine.
Locate the connection to the engine, remove it and wire brush, steel wool, or otherwise clean the wire, the connection, and the bolt.
Remove the terminals from the battery and clean the clamp and the terminals of positive and negative.
When storing the car, remove the negative clamp from the battery terminal or get one of those quick disconnect jobs.
Use a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up to the necessary charge (cycles on and off).
Remove the battery from the car and have it tested at a knowledgeable shop so you go forward with confidence.
Those would be my tips....... :-)
Eric
"Misfortune tests the sincerity of friends." - Aesop (c.620-560 BC)
________________________________
From: Ray Wilkins <raymond.wilkins at bigpond.com>
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thu, October 29, 2009 9:20:14 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
I am looking for some help please. My P6B has been ignored
lately mainly due to household renovations although I have started her up
periodically. There has been some issues with the battery which seemed to lose
all its charge during these periods of neglect but on charging up seemed OK. That
was until recently when it didn?t appear to charge up at all. I attempted
to start the car with jumper leads from my Freelander but all I got was a loud rat-a-tat-a-tat
noise (does that make sense?). I thought that might be the starter motor; does
that sound right? The only other contributing factor might be that a while ago I
had trouble starting the car (no sound at all) and I traced it to the inhibitor
switch on the gearbox. I had a spare gearbox and took the switch off that and
it appeared to solve the problem. I hope that some of you wise gentlemen may
have some ideas for me. Thanks.
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Melbourne, Australia
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Fri Oct 30 01:41:14 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:41:14 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
In-Reply-To: <001101ca591a$8fe9b3c0$afbd1b40$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
References: <000001ca5918$4753c580$d5fb5080$@wilkins@bigpond.com><DA2C78BA36664CF095831982815207A7@Vista>
<001101ca591a$8fe9b3c0$afbd1b40$@wilkins@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <F71BD6BFAF5C4161BE90803C7266301E@Vista>
Fletcher is correct.
Try that, if it is no go then the starter is dead.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Wilkins
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
Thanks for that but the rat-a-tat-a-tat came while trying to start with the jumper leads from the Freelander while it was running so I assume it was pumping out the maximum voltage (there is no issue with the Freelander battery). I did try without the old battery connected with the same results.
Ray
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On Behalf Of Netspace
Sent: Friday, 30 October 2009 3:27 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
Yes it makes sense.
If the battery voltage is inadequate you can get the ratatatat.
Try the freelander battery without the existing P6B battery.
Lead-acid batteries don't like being heavily discharged often, so it is likely it has ceased.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Wilkins
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
I am looking for some help please. My P6B has been ignored lately mainly due to household renovations although I have started her up periodically. There has been some issues with the battery which seemed to lose all its charge during these periods of neglect but on charging up seemed OK. That was until recently when it didn't appear to charge up at all. I attempted to start the car with jumper leads from my Freelander but all I got was a loud rat-a-tat-a-tat noise (does that make sense?). I thought that might be the starter motor; does that sound right? The only other contributing factor might be that a while ago I had trouble starting the car (no sound at all) and I traced it to the inhibitor switch on the gearbox. I had a spare gearbox and took the switch off that and it appeared to solve the problem. I hope that some of you wise gentlemen may have some ideas for me. Thanks.
Ray Wilkins
1976 P6B
Melbourne, Australia
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.698 / Virus Database: 270.14.39/2468 - Release Date: 10/30/09 06:49:00
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Here is the old Rovernet archives:
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From slatskars at comcast.net Fri Oct 30 01:48:17 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 05:48:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Trouble starting P6B
In-Reply-To: <743407.95217.qm@web34307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2065611535.2448031256881697937.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
I very much agree with Eric's recommendations. However, if the battery ground does not go directly to the engine, look for aground strap, normally from the firewall to the bell housing and clean it very well also. For information Harbor Freight sells a small trickle charger for about $6.95 when on sale. I probably have six of them for cars and lawn mowers, etc. that are sitting for some period of time. It is particularly critical to keep a battery charged during freezing weather. It prevents them from freezing.
Slats
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Oct 30 06:08:43 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:08:43 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Rover p3 and Eldoraro,
a splendid hungarian film
In-Reply-To: <13mke5d26s6nchfr5hajpc3i4hobole3fp@4ax.com>
References: <100914772.2114951256835040720.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
<13mke5d26s6nchfr5hajpc3i4hobole3fp@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <7EA0B53FA850DC43BE282D0A8AC85BE30181B693@E30IYLM1.risorse.enel>
Dear friends,
hope everything well.
Yesterday evening I was invited for a film in the Hungarian Academy in Rome.
The film is:
Eldorado - A peso d'oro di G?za Berem?nyi (Eldor?d?, Ungheria, 1988, 104', in lingua originale con sottotitoli in italiano)
It is a spendid film , which could be called an hungarian Amarcord ( fellini's Amarcord - I remember I mean) about the history of a family from the war till the 1956 revolution.
I wanted to tell you that in the cast there is also a splendid rove p3, 3 lights saloon, in great shape.
After the film I had the occasion to speak with Mr. Gezza Beremeny, the art director, and he confirmed me the circumstance, remembering the car.
Best regards, heae you soon, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Peter H
Inviato: venerd? 30 ottobre 2009 4.09
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Shipping from Down Under
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:50:40 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
>
>I have a friend working on a TC, that is MGTC, that needs to have a steering column shipped from the land of OZ. He asked me if I knew of the best (least expensive) method.
How heavy is it? If under 20kg normal post is probably cheapest. Ask the seller very nicely to arrange postage.
Cheers,
Peter H
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From geffandjulie at comcast.net Sat Oct 31 11:46:13 2009
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geoffrey McCarthy)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 08:46:13 -0700
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas Rover
Ranch
In-Reply-To: <4AE65067.2040902@att.net>
References: <4AE65067.2040902@att.net>
Message-ID: <004d01ca5a41$47383340$d5a899c0$@net>
Kent, are either of those for a P6B? If so I'd like them. I can't send you
a photo until next week, when this new computer is fully operational!
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Kent Kinard
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:44 PM
To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas Rover Ranch
Hi Netters,
I have discovered two more batches of stickers:
165HR15 tyre pressure sticker (5 only)
Rover-British Leyland patents sticker (6 only)
Free if you send me a picture of the car you're going to put it on.
First email, first served.
Rovereplacementstickerly,
Kent K.
_______________________________________________
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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Here is the old Rovernet archives:
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Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com Sat Oct 31 14:27:04 2009
From: goodmedicinedr at hotmail.com (Dennis Brooks)
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:27:04 -0300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas
Rover Ranch
In-Reply-To: <004d01ca5a41$47383340$d5a899c0$@net>
References: <4AE65067.2040902@att.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W5574478210F95E05469AD0DEB50@phx.gbl>
I'll gladly send a pic of my P6B even if they are not for the P6B ...however I would like a set if they indeed are as well...
Regards
Dennis
> From: geffandjulie at comcast.net
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 08:46:13 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas Rover Ranch
>
> Kent, are either of those for a P6B? If so I'd like them. I can't send you
> a photo until next week, when this new computer is fully operational!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Kent Kinard
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:44 PM
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] More stickers from the Texas Rover Ranch
>
> Hi Netters,
> I have discovered two more batches of stickers:
>
> 165HR15 tyre pressure sticker (5 only)
>
> Rover-British Leyland patents sticker (6 only)
>
> Free if you send me a picture of the car you're going to put it on.
> First email, first served.
>
> Rovereplacementstickerly,
> Kent K.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_________________________________________________________________
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