>
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Feb 1 04:10:37 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 04:10:37 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] OT - Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire
Message-ID: <cb3.4ce9d02e.36b6c10d@aol.com>
Hi Hugh,
My dad was in the Motor Trade for many years. In the early
'60s he retained an Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire for at least a year as his own
car. There weren't many imported, I don't think that I have seen one for over
30 years. Do you have any of your cars history? Drop a line direct to me if
you would like a few more memories of the car. It was a traffic stopper. I am
having this slight glimmer of hope that you might have my dad's car.
Regards,
Mark Jones.
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From kkinard at att.net Sun Feb 1 07:48:04 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 06:48:04 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] OT - Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire
In-Reply-To: <cb3.4ce9d02e.36b6c10d@aol.com>
References: <cb3.4ce9d02e.36b6c10d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <49859A04.1070805@att.net>
Hi Mark,
Where was your father's car last seen?
This list goes around the world.
Roverly,
Kent Kinard
San Antonio, TX
MarkCoorparoo at aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Hugh,
> My dad was in the Motor Trade for many years. In the
> early '60s he retained an Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire for at least a
> year as his own car. There weren't many imported, I don't think that I
> have seen one for over 30 years. Do you have any of your cars
> history? Drop a line direct to me if you would like a few more
> memories of the car. It was a traffic stopper. I am having this slight
> glimmer of hope that you might have my dad's car.
>
> Regards,
> Mark Jones.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Sun Feb 1 07:54:05 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 08:54:05 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] OT - Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire
References: <cb3.4ce9d02e.36b6c10d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP60E9E3C3887333A7CDB16B95C40@phx.gbl>
Hi Mark
There was an Armstrong Siddeley in Moncton NB years ago, it finally ended up here on PEI. Belonged to a couple of dreamers who planned to restore it, the car was far gone at the time but was complete. Transmission was in the boot, pre select type. I evenually got the car and shipped it to a friend in Ontario as a parts car (Blain Hughes) he later sold it on to someone else. I beleive it originally belonged to the British Trade Commissioner in Montreal. I have photos somewhere??and think it was a 1953-54 model. The body required major work, the leather upholstery was beyond repair, the chrome (lots of it) was badly rusted, the wood bad. As for the engine ???. Nevertheless in my less than sane moments I considered buying it and restoring!!.
Regards Ben (irishrover)
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Sun Feb 1 08:37:01 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 08:37:01 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] OT - Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire
Message-ID: <beb.3851f125.36b6ff7d@aol.com>
Hi Kent,
In Sydney, !964. I'll send you what I just sent Hugh.
Regards,
Mark Jones.
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From rover2000nut at hotmail.com Sun Feb 1 13:00:21 2009
From: rover2000nut at hotmail.com (Bill Robertson)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 18:00:21 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Armstrong Siddley
Message-ID: <BAY119-W26FF500EC277CDB38E846DDEC40@phx.gbl>
Hi Ben.........
Blaine's Armstrong was sold to a chap in my club, Gary Kindree...................He has it nearly refinished and may be ready to be unveiled this year if all goes well............He also has a gorgeous TR4A........I'll send you pictures when it is finally done
Cheers
Bill Robertson
_________________________________________________________________
How fun is this? IMing with Windows Live Messenger just got better.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/messenger.aspx
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Feb 1 13:47:30 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 10:47:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3500 Glovebox manual
Message-ID: <538769.54460.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
We have a new item on our "For Sale" page.
http://www.roverclub.ca/bynonmembers.htm
***********************
Owners' Reference Manual
I have an owner's manual for a 1971 3500s for sale (Glovebox edition). The cover is slightly soiled but otherwise it's in good condition. I'd like $25 for it.
The book has the stiff paper cover. I can't find a date near the front of the book but at the back it states it was printed in England in 1969 by the Wones Print Group. The "American Specification Edition Part No." is 606592.
The book is located in Vancouver, BC, Canada
Gordon Smedley
email: gordon_smedley at hotmail.com
Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
http://www.websrus.ca
From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Sun Feb 1 14:46:55 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 15:46:55 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Armstrong Siddley
References: <BAY119-W26FF500EC277CDB38E846DDEC40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP791E2E39F775EF6BC3B89195C40@phx.gbl>
Hi Bill
I'll look forward to seeing those pictures. Blain has certainly moved from car to car these last few years. He was once a dedicated Rover & L-R nut, then into the Armstrong's and the latest I believe is a Mini wagon!!
Besy Wishes Ben (irishrover)
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sun Feb 1 15:44:35 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 12:44:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3500 Glovebox manual
In-Reply-To: <538769.54460.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
We also have a new item on the website from one of our members:
1 X Series 1 grill badge
1 X Centre console with slot for P/W and A/C switch
http://www.roverclub.ca/bymembers.htm
Eric
Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
http://www.websrus.ca
--- On Sun, 2/1/09, Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover 3500 Glovebox manual
> To: "INTERNATIONAL Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Sunday, February 1, 2009, 10:47 AM
> We have a new item on our "For Sale" page.
> http://www.roverclub.ca/bynonmembers.htm
>
>
> ***********************
>
> Owners' Reference Manual
>
> I have an owner's manual for a 1971 3500s for sale
> (Glovebox edition). The cover is slightly soiled but
> otherwise it's in good condition. I'd like $25 for
> it.
> The book has the stiff paper cover. I can't find a date
> near the front of the book but at the back it states it was
> printed in England in 1969 by the Wones Print Group. The
> "American Specification Edition Part No." is
> 606592.
>
> The book is located in Vancouver, BC, Canada
>
> Gordon Smedley
>
>
> email: gordon_smedley at hotmail.com
>
> Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
> Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
> Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
> http://www.websrus.ca
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Mon Feb 2 07:26:18 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 08:26:18 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover TC in PC Mag
References: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl>
Hi Folks
I just picked up my copy of the January issue of Practical
Classics. I see in the article listed on pages 26 thru 30 "The Gaffer's
Choice" what is claimed as a 1968 Rover TC. I have looked closely at the
details in the photos and can't agree this is a 1968. Surely its a Series
two? I have a series 2. Egg crate grill, spare wheel storage on boot lid,
round guages on dash (same as P6B) engine bonnet bumps. The only thing
different from my car is the radio aerial location. Its on the roof ,mind at
the rear deck. Anyone agree this is the wrong year and wrong model?
Regards Ben (irishrover)
PS to compare cars, photo my car if listed on RoverCarClub of Canada and at
my web site listed below.
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
From JYX95K at aol.com Mon Feb 2 08:23:38 2009
From: JYX95K at aol.com (JYX95K at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 08:23:38 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover TC in PC Mag
Message-ID: <c3f.4127a8ba.36b84dda@aol.com>
Hi Ben
This is an error. The car is Angie Gray's 1972 RHD export 2000TC.
It is an unusual car, UK Forces spec, with emissions control for Germany,
but was certainly built on Valentines Day 1972.
Cheers
Nick
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From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Mon Feb 2 09:15:34 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 10:15:34 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover TC in PC Mag
References: <c3f.4127a8ba.36b84dda@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP64BD89A5E3849EBF1FB49695C50@phx.gbl>
Hi Nick
That's quite a coincidence! My 1971 series two was originally purchased in Germany by a Canadian soldier and brought back to Canada in 1973.
regards Ben (irishrover)
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
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From JYX95K at aol.com Mon Feb 2 09:35:48 2009
From: JYX95K at aol.com (JYX95K at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 09:35:48 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover TC in PC Mag
Message-ID: <d02.4d9716f7.36b85ec4@aol.com>
In a message dated 02/02/2009 14:16:55 GMT Standard Time,
irishrover1 at sympatico.ca writes:
Hi Nick
That's quite a coincidence! My 1971 series two was originally
purchased in Germany by a Canadian soldier and brought back to Canada in 1973.
regards Ben (irishrover)
I think Angie's car (YXC745K) is a 449------ chassis number. Never seen
another one with this spec. Flat main beam headlights, emissions control, oil
cooler, metal battery tray, two lights in the rear bumper.
Cheers
Nick
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From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Mon Feb 2 10:10:10 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 10:10:10 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Armstrong Siddley
Message-ID: <bfa.34844e12.36b866d2@aol.com>
Hi Guys and hopefully Girls,
Perhaps as a world wide net we could start to include the
Armstrong-Siddeley's and VDP Princess' Rolls-Royce's as an addition to our
early Rovers. I know and believe that they are such a part of the early post
war Rover culture. The Armstrong Siddeley Saphire had massive "Motorway"
performance. The pre-war based Bentley was the New "Round Town " thing. Most have
finished up as Bentley Specials. If you could afford the new Roller, the
investigation would start at the coupon office and finish at the War Crimes
Tribunal.. We'll leave them out.
Armstrong Siddeley cars were such good support of the British 'Industry"..
It helped our Rovers to get going again . You know, the Aircraft thing.
They are now very rare. I always thought of them of ugly old "Square-Rigged "
Pommie Cars as a kid . Now I think that one, properly Sorted may be a stunning
everyday driver. Giant Torque, under 2 tons, over 4 litres, big stroke.. I'll
sort one for the 0 -60 Kilos p h traffic light drag anytime. We can't just
drive fast anymore. The Boys are everywhere. However, it would be a very
Impressive, car, around town. For cold climates, they had heaters at both ends, when
Aussie cars had none at all. Plus Leather, Carpet and Wood. Restore, add Air,
hot up the engine and toughen the original drivle line , this is what I might
set out to drive around the world. Let alone to work!!!
I always remember my Dad demonstrating the FreeWheel Knob on the lower dash
of a P4 going up through the South road to Katoomba enRoute to Catalina
several times. My serious intro to Rovers. The Traco - Olds thing sealed it. A
year or too later later Dad had a Pretty Good EH Holden Improved Production
Car that he also drove on the street. It won races. We were on our way to
Catalina on the South Road, he had a pretty scrappy practise on the Saturday. It was
about two months after my mum died.
We were met at the outskirts of Katoomba by at least six Police Cars
claiming Dad had been at least three times over the speed limit at times. 30
MPH. = 90MPH. I told the Senior Constable that it was not possible. He asked
me why, had I been watching the speedo?? No, I had been reading Wheels
Magazine since Penrith !!
I had just turned TEN years old.
At least twelve leather clad NSW Coppers of various ranks stood
looking at each other for about 30 seconds until a recently sworn in young fella
stepped up to the mark and gave Dad a ticket for 10 over the 30 mph zone. Very
Brave.. We continued on to Catalina but dad didn't have the heart to race. He
only ever started twice after that, both with frightening DNF's and a young son
to think about.
First bottom line, on the back road to Catalina the standard P4
FreeWheeler with Dad and I in it was quicker than the hot EH with 5 people it it, with
Police Intervention. That was in hilly terrain. I later learned many times on
the way to school that the EH could do in excess of 80mph in 2nd gear in
the same vicinity of the 414 Bus Routes at Homebush, written about by Thomas
Kenneally in his bio after he wrote Schindlers List.. Yogi Bear's ( Brian
Muir's) S4 EH could apparently do 134 mph through the flying 1/8/th at the top
of ConRod. They had three speed boxes. 179 cubes 64-65-66. A Baby Chevy Nova.
Bottom line, fact, the NSW Police Force only caught my Dad in his EH
Race Car on the way to Katoomba on Race Day, when I reckon he had been quicker in
P4 Free-Wheeler, not on Race Day. FreeWheeler might have done 115mph
downhill powered by gravity with father and son on board, coasting back to 55-70 mph
uphill adding some herbs until it got over the next crest of the the Roller
Coaster. I did this with dad on a number of occaisons with dad between when I
was 7 and 11 years old. In several Rovers. In fact in the EH, dad could not get
much over 90mph with 4 -5 people aboard up the hills. Really makes you wonder
what the Coppers were on, they reckoned they couldn't catch him for miles and
we were all reading magazines and stuff generally bored. It used to be a
wonderful stretch of road up there to Katoomba south of the Rail Line. 2 am
Marvellous. A Sprint road versus Bells Line Round the other Side.
Darn, RoverNetters, gone way off topic again. The Sydney Siders might like
the stuff about the Blue Mountains from the 60's , but I am actually
proposing that we bring onboard the even rarer cars of the post war ilke Such as the
Armstrong Siddelelys of all types. All British Day in Brisbane has to be built
up again and distributed around the world. I got some really good pics a few
years ago, including a perfect Cooper-Climax.
Cars of OUR ILKE, I visit a Daimler Majestic from time to time, here in
Brisbane. Probably without the owners knowledge. It is reasonably presevered
in a continually dry envoironment in the the back of a factory , covered in
about half an inch of dust. Dry Dust, you have to know the factory. I 'll
explain if anyone wants to contact, but I won't say where the car is. It would be
one of those Barn Finds, except it is there. I am hoping the owner is keeping it
for a Retirement project from the car he had when he started his business. If
ever I sort my Rovers, Audi's, Benz and Holden, then the boats, club and
house plus find the Matich I have been searching for, or one of the unbuilt Matich
Spaceframes, this is the car I would sort. It has Rover connections, Daimler
Majestic rods were used by Irv. in JB's 66 F1 Winner Repco Brabham Oldsmobile
StockBlock. I believe this Daimler is loved - it get moved from time to
time.!!!
Enough, I'm getting Flakey again, you lot have started me thinking about
getting a P6 2200TC as a drive car with a Gabba GearboxesDellow 5 speed and
Aussie Injection. That will keep up with the traffic. I Have a bloke in the "old
Mates" here in Coorparoo who could probably do a full leather retrim for
about 4 grand Oz, about 3 US. That about 9 weeks spare dough for me. Time is the
problem. I've blown tonight's.
Regards Everyone, Lets Bring them other Rare Poms Onboard,
Mark Jones.
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From phing at videotron.ca Mon Feb 2 10:18:32 2009
From: phing at videotron.ca (Patrick Hiron)
Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 10:18:32 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover TC in PC Mag
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl>
References: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001b01c98549$825eaf80$871c0e80$@ca>
Ben
This is typical of the crew at " Practical comics ' . They spent a year
spilling tea and bacon sandwiches over a P6B " restoration " and wrote a
long article on how many times their " restored P6 " " broke down on a 1000
mile trip .
They are the sort of amateurs who trim critical suspension bolts to exact
size with an angle grinder {See this months episode of the never ending Jag
rebuild }
Cheers
Patrick .
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of BEN RODGERS
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 7:26 AM
To: p6rovers at yahoo.com; The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rover TC in PC Mag
Hi Folks
I just picked up my copy of the January issue of Practical
Classics. I see in the article listed on pages 26 thru 30 "The Gaffer's
Choice" what is claimed as a 1968 Rover TC. I have looked closely at the
details in the photos and can't agree this is a 1968. Surely its a Series
two? I have a series 2. Egg crate grill, spare wheel storage on boot lid,
round guages on dash (same as P6B) engine bonnet bumps. The only thing
different from my car is the radio aerial location. Its on the roof ,mind at
the rear deck. Anyone agree this is the wrong year and wrong model?
Regards Ben (irishrover)
PS to compare cars, photo my car if listed on RoverCarClub of Canada and at
my web site listed below.
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From jaguru at bellsouth.net Mon Feb 2 12:32:40 2009
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (James Dean)
Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 09:32:40 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] , Vanden Plas Princess 4R
References: <bfa.34844e12.36b866d2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c9855c$52a1f140$6101a8c0@toshibauser>
If anyone needs parts or advice for Vanden Plas Princess 4R, please contact me. I have a nice photo of my Father's VDP Princess 4R on my website www.jaguru.net , as well as my 69 2000TC, before I sold the Magstars. The Rover is rustfree, now needs paint and gearbox, but is fairly priced. I do not sell parts on my website, but do on my eBay store; Old English Motor Company , and my eBay name is thejaguru . My store is divided into 20 categories, including Rover Parts, Daimler Vanden Plas Princess, Jaguar XJ parts, etc. So you do not need to go through all 800 items. Please contact me at jaguru at bellsouth.net, or phone toll free 1 877 524 8787, or cell 1954JAGPART. Thank you, James Dean, Ft. Lauderdale.
----- Original Message -----
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Armstrong Siddley
Hi Guys and hopefully Girls,
Perhaps as a world wide net we could start to include the Armstrong-Siddeley's and VDP Princess' Rolls-Royce's as an addition to our early Rovers. I know and believe that they are such a part of the early post war Rover culture. The Armstrong Siddeley Saphire had massive "Motorway" performance. The pre-war based Bentley was the New "Round Town " thing. Most have finished up as Bentley Specials. If you could afford the new Roller, the investigation would start at the coupon office and finish at the War Crimes Tribunal.. We'll leave them out.
Armstrong Siddeley cars were such good support of the British 'Industry".. It helped our Rovers to get going again . You know, the Aircraft thing. They are now very rare. I always thought of them of ugly old "Square-Rigged " Pommie Cars as a kid . Now I think that one, properly Sorted may be a stunning everyday driver. Giant Torque, under 2 tons, over 4 litres, big stroke.. I'll sort one for the 0 -60 Kilos p h traffic light drag anytime. We can't just drive fast anymore. The Boys are everywhere. However, it would be a very Impressive, car, around town. For cold climates, they had heaters at both ends, when Aussie cars had none at all. Plus Leather, Carpet and Wood. Restore, add Air, hot up the engine and toughen the original drivle line , this is what I might set out to drive around the world. Let alone to work!!!
I always remember my Dad demonstrating the FreeWheel Knob on the lower dash of a P4 going up through the South road to Katoomba enRoute to Catalina several times. My serious intro to Rovers. The Traco - Olds thing sealed it. A year or too later later Dad had a Pretty Good EH Holden Improved Production Car that he also drove on the street. It won races. We were on our way to Catalina on the South Road, he had a pretty scrappy practise on the Saturday. It was about two months after my mum died.
We were met at the outskirts of Katoomba by at least six Police Cars claiming Dad had been at least three times over the speed limit at times. 30 MPH. = 90MPH. I told the Senior Constable that it was not possible. He asked me why, had I been watching the speedo?? No, I had been reading Wheels Magazine since Penrith !!
I had just turned TEN years old.
At least twelve leather clad NSW Coppers of various ranks stood looking at each other for about 30 seconds until a recently sworn in young fella stepped up to the mark and gave Dad a ticket for 10 over the 30 mph zone. Very Brave.. We continued on to Catalina but dad didn't have the heart to race. He only ever started twice after that, both with frightening DNF's and a young son to think about.
First bottom line, on the back road to Catalina the standard P4 FreeWheeler with Dad and I in it was quicker than the hot EH with 5 people it it, with Police Intervention. That was in hilly terrain. I later learned many times on the way to school that the EH could do in excess of 80mph in 2nd gear in the same vicinity of the 414 Bus Routes at Homebush, written about by Thomas Kenneally in his bio after he wrote Schindlers List.. Yogi Bear's ( Brian Muir's) S4 EH could apparently do 134 mph through the flying 1/8/th at the top of ConRod. They had three speed boxes. 179 cubes 64-65-66. A Baby Chevy Nova.
Bottom line, fact, the NSW Police Force only caught my Dad in his EH Race Car on the way to Katoomba on Race Day, when I reckon he had been quicker in P4 Free-Wheeler, not on Race Day. FreeWheeler might have done 115mph downhill powered by gravity with father and son on board, coasting back to 55-70 mph uphill adding some herbs until it got over the next crest of the the Roller Coaster. I did this with dad on a number of occaisons with dad between when I was 7 and 11 years old. In several Rovers. In fact in the EH, dad could not get much over 90mph with 4 -5 people aboard up the hills. Really makes you wonder what the Coppers were on, they reckoned they couldn't catch him for miles and we were all reading magazines and stuff generally bored. It used to be a wonderful stretch of road up there to Katoomba south of the Rail Line. 2 am Marvellous. A Sprint road versus Bells Line Round the other Side.
Darn, RoverNetters, gone way off topic again. The Sydney Siders might like the stuff about the Blue Mountains from the 60's , but I am actually proposing that we bring onboard the even rarer cars of the post war ilke Such as the Armstrong Siddelelys of all types. All British Day in Brisbane has to be built up again and distributed around the world. I got some really good pics a few years ago, including a perfect Cooper-Climax.
Cars of OUR ILKE, I visit a Daimler Majestic from time to time, here in Brisbane. Probably without the owners knowledge. It is reasonably presevered in a continually dry envoironment in the the back of a factory , covered in about half an inch of dust. Dry Dust, you have to know the factory. I 'll explain if anyone wants to contact, but I won't say where the car is. It would be one of those Barn Finds, except it is there. I am hoping the owner is keeping it for a Retirement project from the car he had when he started his business. If ever I sort my Rovers, Audi's, Benz and Holden, then the boats, club and house plus find the Matich I have been searching for, or one of the unbuilt Matich Spaceframes, this is the car I would sort. It has Rover connections, Daimler Majestic rods were used by Irv. in JB's 66 F1 Winner Repco Brabham Oldsmobile StockBlock. I believe this Daimler is loved - it get moved from time to time.!!!
Enough, I'm getting Flakey again, you lot have started me thinking about getting a P6 2200TC as a drive car with a Gabba GearboxesDellow 5 speed and Aussie Injection. That will keep up with the traffic. I Have a bloke in the "old Mates" here in Coorparoo who could probably do a full leather retrim for about 4 grand Oz, about 3 US. That about 9 weeks spare dough for me. Time is the problem. I've blown tonight's.
Regards Everyone, Lets Bring them other Rare Poms Onboard,
Mark Jones.
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Tue Feb 3 10:53:52 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:53:52 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN 2200 Mk111
(MORRIS) JUST 22, 200 mls
In-Reply-To: <001b01c98549$825eaf80$871c0e80$@ca>
References: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl>
<001b01c98549$825eaf80$871c0e80$@ca>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0185D8BF@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200302573981&fromMa
keTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:uk
AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN 2200 Mk111 (MORRIS) JUST 22,200 mls
As seen on e- bay.
Like new.
Best regards, Gianluca.
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From jLewis at wsscwater.com Tue Feb 3 11:33:18 2009
From: jLewis at wsscwater.com (Lewis, Joseph (Michael))
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 11:33:18 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN 2200
Mk111(MORRIS) JUST 22, 200 mls
In-Reply-To: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0185D8BF@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
References: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl><001b01c98549$825eaf80$871c0e80$@ca>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0185D8BF@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Message-ID: <1A1EBE4A9FAEEB42911D577E08CA792204D1B828@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Beautiful!!!
J. Michael Lewis
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200302573981&fromMa
keTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:uk
AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN 2200 Mk111 (MORRIS) JUST 22,200 mls
As seen on e- bay.
Like new.
Best regards, Gianluca.
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Tue Feb 3 11:48:13 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:48:13 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Daimler Connquest century, 2.5 litres
In-Reply-To: <1A1EBE4A9FAEEB42911D577E08CA792204D1B828@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
References: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl><001b01c98549$825eaf80$871c0e80$@ca><AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0185D8BF@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
<1A1EBE4A9FAEEB42911D577E08CA792204D1B828@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0185D955@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1957-Daimler-Conquest-Century_W0QQitemZ140298097923QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item140298097923&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
And also this one...some works to do, but very beautiful.
Best regards, Gianluca.
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] Per conto di Lewis, Joseph (Michael)
Inviato: marted? 3 febbraio 2009 17.33
A: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.
Oggetto: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN 2200Mk111(MORRIS) JUST 22, 200 mls
Beautiful!!!
J. Michael Lewis
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200302573981&fromMa
keTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:uk
AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN 2200 Mk111 (MORRIS) JUST 22,200 mls
As seen on e- bay.
Like new.
Best regards, Gianluca.
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_______________________________________________
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From sdibdin at hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 11:52:20 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:52:20 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: AMAZING 1975 AUSTIN
2200 Mk111(MORRIS) JUST 22, 200 mls
In-Reply-To: <1A1EBE4A9FAEEB42911D577E08CA792204D1B828@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
References: <712405.63251.qm@web34306.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BLU0-SMTP5959B67ED2D2E87780D91795C50@phx.gbl><001b01c98549$825eaf80$871c0e80$@ca>
<AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0185D8BF@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
<1A1EBE4A9FAEEB42911D577E08CA792204D1B828@COB-EXV-01.wssc.ad.root>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W47A6519B20AE026D20ADCAB0C20@phx.gbl>
Nice one!
Issigonis reckoned the 'landcrab' to be his best design ever. The monocoque bodyshell has such a high torsional stiffness that even modern cars are weaker in this respect. I remember BMW spouting the strength of their series 5 bodyshell back in the nineties and even that fell short of this car's.
Not the prettyest motor out there, but technically a tour de force.
From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Thu Feb 5 00:03:02 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:03:02 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Message-ID: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl>
Folks
This evening I decided to check the timing on my 2008 acquired 3500S project. I expect this is the first time this test has been performed in 10years. As the engine was running fairly smoothly, although I have no previous V8 experience to compare with, I thought that the carbs and timing must have been in OK shape. When I adjusted the throttle linkage, got the pesky spark plugs in the right order, and had all the cylinders working finally it was running quite well. Well, it was then......
After I located the decayed timing marks using my elecron microscope and 2000W spotlight, I marked the +10, TDC and +10 with paint. When I started the car I was surprised to see the timing was off the charts advanced - although the idle speed was a little on the high side. I gave the distributor a good turn and brought things back to 5deg or so before TDC, while increasing the idle throttle opening to prevent stalling.
Now the throttle pick up (car stationary) is really slow and I have to stamp the pedal to the floor to get the revs to exceed a slow plod. Next, I am going to check the mixture but I was wondering what the big change in timing would typically require in terms of other adjustments so I know which was to go.......
This weekend - front coil spring replacment, followed by hospital admission if things don't go to plan.
Thanks for any comments
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Thu Feb 5 01:36:22 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:36:22 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B2D3E6FC76134BA7BA9BC5E932353703@Skater901>
My advice - don't believe the timing marks.
Mine runs without detonation similarly "advanced".
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian McDonald" <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 4:03 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Folks
This evening I decided to check the timing on my 2008 acquired 3500S
project. I expect this is the first time this test has been performed in
10years. As the engine was running fairly smoothly, although I have no
previous V8 experience to compare with, I thought that the carbs and timing
must have been in OK shape. When I adjusted the throttle linkage, got the
pesky spark plugs in the right order, and had all the cylinders working
finally it was running quite well. Well, it was then......
After I located the decayed timing marks using my elecron microscope and
2000W spotlight, I marked the +10, TDC and +10 with paint. When I started
the car I was surprised to see the timing was off the charts advanced -
although the idle speed was a little on the high side. I gave the
distributor a good turn and brought things back to 5deg or so before TDC,
while increasing the idle throttle opening to prevent stalling.
Now the throttle pick up (car stationary) is really slow and I have to stamp
the pedal to the floor to get the revs to exceed a slow plod. Next, I am
going to check the mixture but I was wondering what the big change in timing
would typically require in terms of other adjustments so I know which was to
go.......
This weekend - front coil spring replacment, followed by hospital admission
if things don't go to plan.
Thanks for any comments
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From boulter.t.h at bigpond.com Thu Feb 5 04:41:59 2009
From: boulter.t.h at bigpond.com (Tanya&Hugh Boulter)
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:41:59 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
Hi Adrian,
The real issue is that with the changes in the characteristics in fuel since
the car was made, if you want to get back to reasonable performance you
should either 1) have the distributor remapped or 2)you can get a late model
P38A Range Rover (Thor engine model Bosch) distributor.
The key here is to make sure you do not have pre-ignition issues.
Cheers,
Hugh
Canberra Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Thursday, 5 February 2009 4:03 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Folks
This evening I decided to check the timing on my 2008 acquired 3500S
project. I expect this is the first time this test has been performed in
10years. As the engine was running fairly smoothly, although I have no
previous V8 experience to compare with, I thought that the carbs and timing
must have been in OK shape. When I adjusted the throttle linkage, got the
pesky spark plugs in the right order, and had all the cylinders working
finally it was running quite well. Well, it was then......
After I located the decayed timing marks using my elecron microscope and
2000W spotlight, I marked the +10, TDC and +10 with paint. When I started
the car I was surprised to see the timing was off the charts advanced -
although the idle speed was a little on the high side. I gave the
distributor a good turn and brought things back to 5deg or so before TDC,
while increasing the idle throttle opening to prevent stalling.
Now the throttle pick up (car stationary) is really slow and I have to stamp
the pedal to the floor to get the revs to exceed a slow plod. Next, I am
going to check the mixture but I was wondering what the big change in timing
would typically require in terms of other adjustments so I know which was to
go.......
This weekend - front coil spring replacment, followed by hospital admission
if things don't go to plan.
Thanks for any comments
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveT: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0220
09
_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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From koffee at iprimus.com.au Thu Feb 5 05:54:55 2009
From: koffee at iprimus.com.au (Damien)
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 20:54:55 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl>
<20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
Message-ID: <000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
Make sure that TDC timing marks are TDC which means taking out the plugs
turning the motor by hand and check that the number one piston is at TDC and
the valves are closed. Then check the distributer that the rotor is lined up
with the position of the number one piston spark plug lead.
This is all so much fun
Then maybe the distributor cog may need moving
Or forget all that and do the timing by ear. This only really comes with
experience but hey that is half the fun with these cars. There is no more
fun than taking your car for a run and leaving the distributor a bit loose,
then pulling over on the side of the road and giving the distributor a small
adjustment. When you get back and it is running as smooth as silk, you can
think to yourself I did that, not the timing light.
Same with carby tunes etc
All the old F1 cars etc before they had more computers then most small
countries were finetuned by ear
Damien
Brisbane Aust
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Tanya&Hugh Boulter
Sent: Thursday, 5 February 2009 7:42 PM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Hi Adrian,
The real issue is that with the changes in the characteristics in fuel since
the car was made, if you want to get back to reasonable performance you
should either 1) have the distributor remapped or 2)you can get a late model
P38A Range Rover (Thor engine model Bosch) distributor.
The key here is to make sure you do not have pre-ignition issues.
Cheers,
Hugh
Canberra Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Thursday, 5 February 2009 4:03 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Folks
This evening I decided to check the timing on my 2008 acquired 3500S
project. I expect this is the first time this test has been performed in
10years. As the engine was running fairly smoothly, although I have no
previous V8 experience to compare with, I thought that the carbs and timing
must have been in OK shape. When I adjusted the throttle linkage, got the
pesky spark plugs in the right order, and had all the cylinders working
finally it was running quite well. Well, it was then......
After I located the decayed timing marks using my elecron microscope and
2000W spotlight, I marked the +10, TDC and +10 with paint. When I started
the car I was surprised to see the timing was off the charts advanced -
although the idle speed was a little on the high side. I gave the
distributor a good turn and brought things back to 5deg or so before TDC,
while increasing the idle throttle opening to prevent stalling.
Now the throttle pick up (car stationary) is really slow and I have to stamp
the pedal to the floor to get the revs to exceed a slow plod. Next, I am
going to check the mixture but I was wondering what the big change in timing
would typically require in terms of other adjustments so I know which was to
go.......
This weekend - front coil spring replacment, followed by hospital admission
if things don't go to plan.
Thanks for any comments
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveT: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0220
09
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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From magnet at roverclub.org Thu Feb 5 09:17:25 2009
From: magnet at roverclub.org (Magnet)
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 09:17:25 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P5 workshop manuals
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP52540C7636F473477207F391C00@phx.gbl>
The following message was forwarded to me this morning -- it may be of interest to P5 owners out there...
> Hi Bill:
>
> I'm an ex-member of the Rover Club and I'm having a bit of a sort out...
> and have found the following:
>
> Rover 3 litre workshop manual, Part Number 4661, 2nd edition Jan 1966,
> Technical publication No. TP367. Looks like all the pages are still
> attached to the spine.
>
> Rover 3.5 litre workshop manual Supplement, Saloon and Coupe. Part No
> 605358, First issue Sept 1967. Well used and mostly falling to bits but I
> think all the pages are still there.
>
> Do you think anyone in the Rover Club would be interested in giving me
> what they are worth, whatever that is???
>
> see attached picture ( http://www.roverclub.org/p5manuals.jpg )
>
> Thanks... hope to hear from you,
>
> Fenella Smith
If any one is interested, please correspond directly with Fenella at allennef at yahoo.ca
Thanks,
Bill Daddis
Toronto Area Rover Club
From anders at xoz.dk Thu Feb 5 12:34:46 2009
From: anders at xoz.dk (Anders Hedelund)
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 18:34:46 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
References: <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
Message-ID: <498B2336.6010901@xoz.dk>
The ultimate replacement distributor must be this one:
http://www.123ignition.nl/brand/Rover.html
..Anders, Copenhagen, Denmark
From boulter.t.h at bigpond.com Thu Feb 5 15:17:22 2009
From: boulter.t.h at bigpond.com (Tanya&Hugh Boulter)
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 07:17:22 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
Message-ID: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
Damien,
That is exactly what I use to do. My mechanic would tune car to factory
specs and then I would do just that. About a 25% lift in performance. He
showed me what to do when I went back to him to discuss the drop in
performance.
My 3 old V8s all have electronic ignition.
3500S Luminition
3.5 litre and 3500 automatic both have piranha.
Seems to work well but I am thinking of upgrading the 3500S to the Bosch
option shortly, cost is about $1,000. Whilst typing it occurred to me to get
a second hand on from Triumph Rover Spares in SA.
Cheers,
Hugh
Canberra Aust.
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Damien
Sent: Thursday, 5 February 2009 9:55 PM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Make sure that TDC timing marks are TDC which means taking out the plugs
turning the motor by hand and check that the number one piston is at TDC and
the valves are closed. Then check the distributer that the rotor is lined up
with the position of the number one piston spark plug lead.
This is all so much fun
Then maybe the distributor cog may need moving Or forget all that and do the
timing by ear. This only really comes with experience but hey that is half
the fun with these cars. There is no more fun than taking your car for a run
and leaving the distributor a bit loose, then pulling over on the side of
the road and giving the distributor a small adjustment. When you get back
and it is running as smooth as silk, you can think to yourself I did that,
not the timing light.
Same with carby tunes etc
All the old F1 cars etc before they had more computers then most small
countries were finetuned by ear
Damien
Brisbane Aust
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Tanya&Hugh Boulter
Sent: Thursday, 5 February 2009 7:42 PM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Hi Adrian,
The real issue is that with the changes in the characteristics in fuel since
the car was made, if you want to get back to reasonable performance you
should either 1) have the distributor remapped or 2)you can get a late model
P38A Range Rover (Thor engine model Bosch) distributor.
The key here is to make sure you do not have pre-ignition issues.
Cheers,
Hugh
Canberra Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Thursday, 5 February 2009 4:03 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Folks
This evening I decided to check the timing on my 2008 acquired 3500S
project. I expect this is the first time this test has been performed in
10years. As the engine was running fairly smoothly, although I have no
previous V8 experience to compare with, I thought that the carbs and timing
must have been in OK shape. When I adjusted the throttle linkage, got the
pesky spark plugs in the right order, and had all the cylinders working
finally it was running quite well. Well, it was then......
After I located the decayed timing marks using my elecron microscope and
2000W spotlight, I marked the +10, TDC and +10 with paint. When I started
the car I was surprised to see the timing was off the charts advanced -
although the idle speed was a little on the high side. I gave the
distributor a good turn and brought things back to 5deg or so before TDC,
while increasing the idle throttle opening to prevent stalling.
Now the throttle pick up (car stationary) is really slow and I have to stamp
the pedal to the floor to get the revs to exceed a slow plod. Next, I am
going to check the mixture but I was wondering what the big change in timing
would typically require in terms of other adjustments so I know which was to
go.......
This weekend - front coil spring replacment, followed by hospital admission
if things don't go to plan.
Thanks for any comments
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveT: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0220
09
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From kkinard at att.net Thu Feb 5 17:33:31 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 16:33:31 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
Message-ID: <498B693B.7040602@att.net>
Tanya&Hugh Boulter wrote:.
> My 3 old V8s all have electronic ignition.
>
> 3500S Luminition
> 3.5 litre and 3500 automatic both have piranha.
>
Just as an aside, I have six or eight piranha systems still new in boxes
if anybody wants one.
Roverly,
Kent K.
From koffee at iprimus.com.au Thu Feb 5 22:27:24 2009
From: koffee at iprimus.com.au (Damien)
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:27:24 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <498B693B.7040602@att.net>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B693B.7040602@att.net>
Message-ID: <D26A7B48-A5FA-4B34-BCCE-252DBCFF4CB2@iprimus.com.au>
Yes please how much do you want for them. If you want I will contact
you off rovernet
DAMIEN
On 06/02/2009, at 8:33, Kent Kinard <kkinard at att.net> wrote:
> Tanya&Hugh Boulter wrote:.
>> My 3 old V8s all have electronic ignition.
>>
>> 3500S Luminition
>> 3.5 litre and 3500 automatic both have piranha.
>>
> Just as an aside, I have six or eight piranha systems still new in
> boxes if anybody wants one.
>
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Fri Feb 6 12:50:33 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 18:50:33 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: P50 in London
In-Reply-To: <498B2336.6010901@xoz.dk>
References: <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B2336.6010901@xoz.dk>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A018C2AAC@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
http://www.lastampa.it/multimedia/multimedia.asp?p=1&pm=1&IDmsezione=25&IDalbum=15448&tipo=FOTOGALLERY#mpos
We know the P5, but do we know the P 50?
Peel P50, l' auto pi? piccola del mondo in strada a Londra
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Mon Feb 9 11:32:39 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 08:32:39 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <498B693B.7040602@att.net>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B693B.7040602@att.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
Folks
As one Rovernet commentator suggested, my Federal V8 timing marks were in the wrong place! After using a ruler to check the valve height, I eventually zeroed in on what I could best guess was TDC and marked it on the wheel. Engine running much better at about 4deg BTDC! Then, I busted out the colortune and got the mixture blue, verging towards the orange zone and a bit more messing around with the linkages and the carburettors are even sucking in the same amount of air. Nice, I thought. I removed the vacuum retard and plugged the hole. I removed some more small emission appendages no longer serving any function. Engine running smoothly and, as far as I can tell, nice exhaust sound. I celebrated by changing the shock absorbers.
Then, on the triumphant drive out of the driveway, I have about (estimated) 27BHP available as I press the pedal down. Nothing. Cue reverse 70 yards down road back to driveway. Hmmm.
PS. Anyone know where I can get a ball joint extractor special tool to eplace my front springs?
Adrian
Rover 3500S (street legal modified - 27BHP)
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009
From lingfield51 at btinternet.com Mon Feb 9 11:55:10 2009
From: lingfield51 at btinternet.com (JULIET KEILER)
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 16:55:10 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B693B.7040602@att.net>
<COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <43065.31761.qm@web86008.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
The fact it idles OK would suggest mixture rather than spark. I always us the 'lift pin' method on the carb for tuning. Lifting the pin increases airflow without affecting the mixture. If the engine dies it's to weak if the revs increase it's too rich if it hesitates and then returns to normal it's about right. easy and quick to do...lets see if we can get it up to 50 bhp and really frighten the neighbours!
Alan Francis (partviking)
________________________________
From: Adrian McDonald <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
To: Rovernet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, 9 February, 2009 4:32:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Folks
As one Rovernet commentator suggested, my Federal V8 timing marks were in the wrong place! After using a ruler to check the valve height, I eventually zeroed in on what I could best guess was TDC and marked it on the wheel. Engine running much better at about 4deg BTDC! Then, I busted out the colortune and got the mixture blue, verging towards the orange zone and a bit more messing around with the linkages and the carburettors are even sucking in the same amount of air. Nice, I thought. I removed the vacuum retard and plugged the hole. I removed some more small emission appendages no longer serving any function. Engine running smoothly and, as far as I can tell, nice exhaust sound. I celebrated by changing the shock absorbers.
Then, on the triumphant drive out of the driveway, I have about (estimated) 27BHP available as I press the pedal down. Nothing. Cue reverse 70 yards down road back to driveway. Hmmm.
PS. Anyone know where I can get a ball joint extractor special tool to eplace my front springs?
Adrian
Rover 3500S (street legal modified - 27BHP)
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009
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From roverman2 at verizon.net Mon Feb 9 13:38:13 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 13:38:13 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B693B.7040602@att.net>
<COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <55A6B88F-748C-40BE-92E7-77CA6D92B76B@verizon.net>
Hi Adrian,
I have a ball joint extractor, but I'm afraid I cannot loan any
special tools. However, I can rebuilt your swivel pillar for time and
materials. I have the upper and lower ball joints in stock. Please
contact me directly if interested,
Yes, the timing marks are notoriously unreliable. Valve timing is
also very hit and miss even on low mileage engines. When I rebuild a
V8 I always use a 3 position true roller Cloyes type timing chain.
This is the only way to get accurate valve timing.
Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics.
roverman2 at verizon.net
(845) 947 3126
On Feb 9, 2009, at 11:32 AM, Adrian McDonald wrote:
>
> Folks
>
> As one Rovernet commentator suggested, my Federal V8 timing marks
> were in the wrong place! After using a ruler to check the valve
> height, I eventually zeroed in on what I could best guess was TDC
> and marked it on the wheel. Engine running much better at about
> 4deg BTDC! Then, I busted out the colortune and got the mixture
> blue, verging towards the orange zone and a bit more messing around
> with the linkages and the carburettors are even sucking in the same
> amount of air. Nice, I thought. I removed the vacuum retard and
> plugged the hole. I removed some more small emission appendages no
> longer serving any function. Engine running smoothly and, as far as
> I can tell, nice exhaust sound. I celebrated by changing the shock
> absorbers.
>
> Then, on the triumphant drive out of the driveway, I have about
> (estimated) 27BHP available as I press the pedal down. Nothing. Cue
> reverse 70 yards down road back to driveway. Hmmm.
>
> PS. Anyone know where I can get a ball joint extractor special tool
> to eplace my front springs?
>
>
> Adrian
> Rover 3500S (street legal modified - 27BHP)
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live?: Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/explore?
> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From kkinard at att.net Mon Feb 9 19:07:53 2009
From: kkinard at att.net (Kent Kinard)
Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 18:07:53 -0600
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <55A6B88F-748C-40BE-92E7-77CA6D92B76B@verizon.net>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter> <498B693B.7040602@att.net> <COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
<55A6B88F-748C-40BE-92E7-77CA6D92B76B@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4990C559.5070008@att.net>
Dermot Harvey wrote:
> Hi Adrian,
>
> I have a ball joint extractor, but I'm afraid I cannot loan any
> special tools. However, I can rebuilt your swivel pillar for time and
> materials. I have the upper and lower ball joints in stock. Please
> contact me directly if interested,
> Yes, the timing marks are notoriously unreliable. Valve timing is also
> very hit and miss even on low mileage engines. When I rebuild a V8 I
> always use a 3 position true roller Cloyes type timing chain. This is
> the only way to get accurate valve timing.
I agree completely. Milodon makes a similar timing set.
Roverly,
Kent K.
From sharrigan2000tc at gmail.com Tue Feb 10 00:21:09 2009
From: sharrigan2000tc at gmail.com (Sean Harrigan)
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 21:21:09 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000tc consumables
Message-ID: <beb7b150902092121o6b42ececk574b77c2fa8a2064@mail.gmail.com>
Hey all, just a newbie here.thanks to nelson ive jump started my 2000tc
progress by leaps n bounds. Nelson you ROCK!! Im just wondering where
the best place for car specific/similar part replacements are best purchased
for the us market. im talkin brake pads. clutches, window rubbers, etc.
also, i was wondering if anyone has converted a 2000tc into a tbi fuel
injection like the folks are doing at patton machined projects?
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From vmitps at netspace.net.au Tue Feb 10 03:25:58 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:25:58 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter><498B693B.7040602@att.net>
<COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5BA1F8C28DDF4B6E9EF2B805F7A77A73@Skater901>
Fuel starve is my guess.
Check fuel tap on firewall is Normal or Reserve, not halfway.
Are you looking to separate the ball joint form the top arm?
I can send pictures of my rig for that.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian McDonald" <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Folks
As one Rovernet commentator suggested, my Federal V8 timing marks were in
the wrong place! After using a ruler to check the valve height, I eventually
zeroed in on what I could best guess was TDC and marked it on the wheel.
Engine running much better at about 4deg BTDC! Then, I busted out the
colortune and got the mixture blue, verging towards the orange zone and a
bit more messing around with the linkages and the carburettors are even
sucking in the same amount of air. Nice, I thought. I removed the vacuum
retard and plugged the hole. I removed some more small emission appendages
no longer serving any function. Engine running smoothly and, as far as I can
tell, nice exhaust sound. I celebrated by changing the shock absorbers.
Then, on the triumphant drive out of the driveway, I have about (estimated)
27BHP available as I press the pedal down. Nothing. Cue reverse 70 yards
down road back to driveway. Hmmm.
PS. Anyone know where I can get a ball joint extractor special tool to
eplace my front springs?
Adrian
Rover 3500S (street legal modified - 27BHP)
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009
_______________________________________________
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Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From peter at king-co.com Tue Feb 10 11:25:30 2009
From: peter at king-co.com (peter king)
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 11:25:30 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B693B.7040602@att.net>
<COL114-W10B028E736B9D1FE398A919EBC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CD62ED0E-C12D-423A-9BF9-3A24ABC46012@king-co.com>
Adrian,
Sounds too obvious, but before you do anything else, check accelerator
linkage from pedal to carbs. I had a similar issue with mine, caused
by a bent linkage coming in contact with the firewall, restricting
full accelerator engagement ... Can you rev the engine manually at the
carb, or does it die out when you actuate the linkage by hand as well?
I recently experienced the same symptoms with my Motorcycle carbs. The
bike idled fine but no accelerating power without max choking. I
rebuilt the carbs and that solved it. I don't know if you've already
looked at yours, but they may need a good cleaning/rebuild.
All the best,
Peter
On Feb 9, 2009, at 11:32 AM, Adrian McDonald wrote:
>
> Folks
>
> As one Rovernet commentator suggested, my Federal V8 timing marks
> were in the wrong place! After using a ruler to check the valve
> height, I eventually zeroed in on what I could best guess was TDC
> and marked it on the wheel. Engine running much better at about 4deg
> BTDC! Then, I busted out the colortune and got the mixture blue,
> verging towards the orange zone and a bit more messing around with
> the linkages and the carburettors are even sucking in the same
> amount of air. Nice, I thought. I removed the vacuum retard and
> plugged the hole. I removed some more small emission appendages no
> longer serving any function. Engine running smoothly and, as far as
> I can tell, nice exhaust sound. I celebrated by changing the shock
> absorbers.
>
> Then, on the triumphant drive out of the driveway, I have about
> (estimated) 27BHP available as I press the pedal down. Nothing. Cue
> reverse 70 yards down road back to driveway. Hmmm.
>
> PS. Anyone know where I can get a ball joint extractor special tool
> to eplace my front springs?
>
>
> Adrian
> Rover 3500S (street legal modified - 27BHP)
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live?: Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
peter king + company
21 drydock avenue
boston, ma 02210
617-292-7877
www.king-co.com
See NEW updates for 2009: http://king-co.com/newwork/newwork.html
From roverfreak619 at yahoo.com Tue Feb 10 12:38:51 2009
From: roverfreak619 at yahoo.com (Rover freak)
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:38:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] rover parts P6
Message-ID: <897960.49479.qm@web111301.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
JR Wadhams is a good Rover parts suppiler, Scotts Rubbers if there still around are good!
Contact" Dean Price " from Pasadena Ca.? i think he still has parts and a few P6 Rovers call me for his number.
Mr. Kinard?? Holleywood Ca??
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From sdibdin at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 18:19:05 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:19:05 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000tc consumables
In-Reply-To: <beb7b150902092121o6b42ececk574b77c2fa8a2064@mail.gmail.com>
References: <beb7b150902092121o6b42ececk574b77c2fa8a2064@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W539D3B9DA59615335CDEF9B0BA0@phx.gbl>
Hi Sean,
Welcome to P6s! I have a 1968 2000tc in New Jersey and its not as bad getting hold of parts once you get used to it.
Some odd consumables can be got pretty cheaply from http://www.Rockauto.com/ stuff like brake pads, points and such.
Ruth Burgess at All British cars has loads of stuff and will know where you can get it if she doesn't have it her email address is allbritishcars at shaw.ca and her phone number is 604.294.5747. Bear in mind that she's up in British Columbia when calling.
Of course cruising eBay is always good. I ran old Triumphs in the late '80's and am amazed how much more affordable the hobby is now because of it!
As I think someone already mentioned JR Wadhams have almost everything, but at a price sometimes. You can be certain of the quality of their parts though. Also try Ian Wilson in the UK at http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/ IAn's a lovely chap and will really try and help you. He also imports NADA p6s back to the UK so has a pretty good understanding of our 'special' requirements.
Also well worth joining the Rover Car Club of Canada as they have an extensive stock of spares (second hand mainly but checked over, and some limited NOS) http://www.roverclub.ca/
Folks on this list are very helpful if you need something too!
That's about it.
Cheers,
Steven Dibdin
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 18:20:50 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:20:50 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000tc consumables
In-Reply-To: <beb7b150902092121o6b42ececk574b77c2fa8a2064@mail.gmail.com>
References: <beb7b150902092121o6b42ececk574b77c2fa8a2064@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W306D8B21522939DB14C4ACB0BA0@phx.gbl>
One last thing, try these guys in New York, they have ware house full of British NOS items and they have heard of P6s! http://www.customsparesltd.com/index.html
From roverman2 at verizon.net Thu Feb 12 13:53:52 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:53:52 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] P6 Parts
Message-ID: <FC8CA80B-5F71-40A0-835C-D0BB554C9E98@verizon.net>
Hi Sean,
I also carry new and used P6 parts. I'm located in Downstate New
York. Give me a try - I've been in business for over 25 years!
Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics
roverman2 at verizon.net
From sharrigan2000tc at gmail.com Sun Feb 15 13:06:53 2009
From: sharrigan2000tc at gmail.com (Sean Harrigan)
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 10:06:53 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Rovernet Digest, Vol 8, Issue 12
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1234458006.1438.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.5.1234458006.1438.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <beb7b150902151006q530f1104if483759aa6ca43cf@mail.gmail.com>
I'll try 'em. thanks all for the answers everyone.
On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 9:00 AM, <rovernet-request at rovernet.ca> wrote:
> Send Rovernet mailing list submissions to
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: 2000tc consumables (Steven Dibdin)
> 2. Re: 2000tc consumables (Steven Dibdin)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:19:05 +0000
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000tc consumables
> To: RoverNet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BAY106-W539D3B9DA59615335CDEF9B0BA0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Hi Sean,
>
> Welcome to P6s! I have a 1968 2000tc in New Jersey and its not as bad
> getting hold of parts once you get used to it.
>
> Some odd consumables can be got pretty cheaply from
> http://www.Rockauto.com/ stuff like brake pads, points and such.
>
> Ruth Burgess at All British cars has loads of stuff and will know where you
> can get it if she doesn't have it her email address is
> allbritishcars at shaw.ca and her phone number is 604.294.5747. Bear in mind
> that she's up in British Columbia when calling.
>
> Of course cruising eBay is always good. I ran old Triumphs in the late
> '80's and am amazed how much more affordable the hobby is now because of it!
>
> As I think someone already mentioned JR Wadhams have almost everything, but
> at a price sometimes. You can be certain of the quality of their parts
> though. Also try Ian Wilson in the UK at http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/IAn's a lovely chap and will really try and help you. He also imports NADA
> p6s back to the UK so has a pretty good understanding of our 'special'
> requirements.
>
> Also well worth joining the Rover Car Club of Canada as they have an
> extensive stock of spares (second hand mainly but checked over, and some
> limited NOS) http://www.roverclub.ca/
>
> Folks on this list are very helpful if you need something too!
>
> That's about it.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Steven Dibdin
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 23:20:50 +0000
> From: Steven Dibdin <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 2000tc consumables
> To: RoverNet <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <BAY106-W306D8B21522939DB14C4ACB0BA0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> One last thing, try these guys in New York, they have ware house full of
> British NOS items and they have heard of P6s!
> http://www.customsparesltd.com/index.html
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
> End of Rovernet Digest, Vol 8, Issue 12
> ***************************************
>
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From giannid at bigpond.com Sun Feb 15 16:58:25 2009
From: giannid at bigpond.com (Gianni D'Ortenzio)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:58:25 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
References: <mailman.5.1234458006.1438.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<beb7b150902151006q530f1104if483759aa6ca43cf@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A13B25DBDD0041BB839E22B6AB31DDC2@Giannis>
new engine, great overhauled steering box which doesn't leak and much improved (modified brakes) means getting the coupe back on the road has been very exciting but the steering has developed a shake come rattle
a shim on the top bearing on the column seems to have made everything feel more solid but rattle persists and it has a light vibration as well
all the front suspension rubbers have been replaced and the wheels balanced
anyone with thoughts/similar experience/ideas?
Gianni
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From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Sun Feb 15 18:52:33 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:22:33 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
In-Reply-To: <A13B25DBDD0041BB839E22B6AB31DDC2@Giannis>
References: <mailman.5.1234458006.1438.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca> <beb7b150902151006q530f1104if483759aa6ca43cf@mail.gmail.com>
<A13B25DBDD0041BB839E22B6AB31DDC2@Giannis>
Message-ID: <4998AAC1.7000408@ozemail.com.au>
Hi Gianni
Try checking your ..........
* swivel ball preload
* steering rods for bends
* tie rod ends
* wheel alignment
Cheers
Dave
South Oz
Gianni D'Ortenzio wrote:
> new engine, great overhauled steering box which doesn't leak and much improved (modified brakes) means getting the coupe back on the road has been very exciting but the steering has developed a shake come rattle
> a shim on the top bearing on the column seems to have made everything feel more solid but rattle persists and it has a light vibration as well
> all the front suspension rubbers have been replaced and the wheels balanced
> anyone with thoughts/similar experience/ideas?
> Gianni
From defender110 at ozemail.com.au Sun Feb 15 18:57:26 2009
From: defender110 at ozemail.com.au (David Read)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:27:26 +1030
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
In-Reply-To: <A13B25DBDD0041BB839E22B6AB31DDC2@Giannis>
References: <mailman.5.1234458006.1438.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca> <beb7b150902151006q530f1104if483759aa6ca43cf@mail.gmail.com>
<A13B25DBDD0041BB839E22B6AB31DDC2@Giannis>
Message-ID: <4998ABE6.9050005@ozemail.com.au>
OOPS SORRY group!!!
Senior moment ..... Wrong forum!
Reply was for front end shake on a 4WD Landrover!
Tie rod ends and wheel alignment may still be pertinent ;-)
Back to my medication <blush>
Cheers
Dave
South Oz
Gianni D'Ortenzio wrote:
> new engine, great overhauled steering box which doesn't leak and much improved (modified brakes) means getting the coupe back on the road has been very exciting but the steering has developed a shake come rattle
> a shim on the top bearing on the column seems to have made everything feel more solid but rattle persists and it has a light vibration as well
> all the front suspension rubbers have been replaced and the wheels balanced
> anyone with thoughts/similar experience/ideas?
> Gianni
From giannid at bigpond.com Sun Feb 15 19:32:46 2009
From: giannid at bigpond.com (Gianni D'Ortenzio)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 11:32:46 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
References: <mailman.5.1234458006.1438.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca> <beb7b150902151006q530f1104if483759aa6ca43cf@mail.gmail.com><A13B25DBDD0041BB839E22B6AB31DDC2@Giannis>
<4998AAC1.7000408@ozemail.com.au>
Message-ID: <1B287684EE894B1CB44C48EB924DEFC0@Giannis>
obviously no swivel balls!
steering rods fine
tie rod ends will be checked again and may be at fault though all seemed
good on reassembly
wheel alignment fine
thanks for input
Gianni
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Read" <defender110 at ozemail.com.au>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
> Hi Gianni
> Try checking your ..........
> * swivel ball preload
> * steering rods for bends
> * tie rod ends
> * wheel alignment
>
> Cheers
> Dave
> South Oz
>
> Gianni D'Ortenzio wrote:
>> new engine, great overhauled steering box which doesn't leak and much
>> improved (modified brakes) means getting the coupe back on the road has
>> been very exciting but the steering has developed a shake come rattle
>> a shim on the top bearing on the column seems to have made everything
>> feel more solid but rattle persists and it has a light vibration as well
>> all the front suspension rubbers have been replaced and the wheels
>> balanced
>> anyone with thoughts/similar experience/ideas?
>> Gianni
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Mon Feb 16 00:53:24 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 21:53:24 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl>
<20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
Message-ID: <COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
All
After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive). Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I started on my "improvement" initiatives.
I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich. what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold? There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More Hmmmmmmm
Thanks to everyone
cheers
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
From koffee at iprimus.com.au Mon Feb 16 02:45:27 2009
From: koffee at iprimus.com.au (Damien)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:45:27 +1000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl> <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
<COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301c9900a$8939f780$9bade680$@com.au>
Just as a side and I don't know if this applies to the Federal 3500s but
here in oz there is a return fuel line from the carbies to the tank and I
have had problems with fuel starving as I have been getting vapour locks
when it is warm. What I have done is take the return line off at the carby
and using compressed air (either air compressor or lungs) blow back until
you hear the air bubbling in the tank'
Just a little side problem I have had
Damien
Brisbane (Land down under)
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Monday, 16 February 2009 3:53 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
All
After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal
power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now
removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage
busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after
fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive).
Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I
started on my "improvement" initiatives.
I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking
through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and
seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders
run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two
cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down
in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich.
what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold?
There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you
pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More
Hmmmmmmm
Thanks to everyone
cheers
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveT: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0220
09
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Mon Feb 16 02:51:40 2009
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (Roger.Matheson)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 18:51:40 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl><20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
<COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00d201c9900b$673c39d0$0100000a@homea7f046a5f4>
Hi Adrian,
I am intruiged by your use of colour tune. Do you find it more reliable in
setting the mixtures than the piston method? The carby's fead their own
bank and so the apparent symetry of mixture in the firing order accross 8
cylinders should not be relevant. However the pattern is interesting and
far more expert than I may have the solution. Vacume is an issue and I
wonder whether you have done a compression test or checked for blow by in
the crankcase vent pipes. At a set RPM, a cylinder with less compression
(say worn rings) will draw in marginally less fuel air mixture than a higher
compression cylinder. This may lead to the different firing temperatures
that you are observing in the colour tune. The same would apply in the case
of problems with tappet clearence, valves leaking, a leaking inlet manifold,
or exhaust pipe obstruction. Are the plugs all OK and do they have the same
heat range? Is there any tracking in the distributor cap that is weakening
the spark to certain cylinders? As I understand, a power balance test,
which involves measuring the difference in RPM when the plug in each
cylinder is shorted, may caste light on why there is no diffrence in RPM
when the lean cylinders are stopped in turn. I have had the experience of
RPM increasing when I have removed a plug because tracking has caused that
cylinder to fire at the wrong time. Presumably no difference means that the
lean cylinders are not contributing power. With four cylinders lean you may
have an explanation for poor power output. Hmmmm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian McDonald" <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
All
After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal
power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now
removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage
busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after
fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive).
Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I
started on my "improvement" initiatives.
I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking
through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and
seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders
run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two
cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down
in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich.
what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold?
There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you
pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More
Hmmmmmmm
Thanks to everyone
cheers
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
Here is the old Rovernet archives:
http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
--
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Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.24/1954 - Release Date: 15/02/2009
6:09 PM
From vmitps at netspace.net.au Mon Feb 16 04:49:16 2009
From: vmitps at netspace.net.au (Netspace)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:49:16 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl><20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
<COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2ACFA9756A7B4E448CBE043273D6A315@Skater901>
It means that one carby is rich, the other lean.
They feed inner 2 one side, outer 2 the other.
Firing order is 1 8 6 5 4 3 7 2
so even induction occurs on
1 6 4 7 outer lefts and inner rights
and
8 5 3 2 outer rights and inner lefts
I can't remember which carb feeds which though. Could work it out by
looking at my 3500 in daylight though.
It should be easy to figure out, adjust left carb then right carb with
colourtune in #1.
PVS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adrian McDonald" <adrian.mcdonald at live.com>
To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
All
After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal
power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now
removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage
busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after
fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive).
Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I
started on my "improvement" initiatives.
I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking
through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and
seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders
run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two
cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down
in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich.
what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold?
There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you
pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More
Hmmmmmmm
Thanks to everyone
cheers
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
_______________________________________________
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From wfritz at mindspring.com Mon Feb 16 10:52:39 2009
From: wfritz at mindspring.com (Fritz Rauschenberg)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:52:39 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
Message-ID: <410-220092116155239171@mindspring.com>
Try tightening the bolts securing the idler box to the bulkhead, if you
haven't already. I'm coming in late on this thread.
Fritz Rauschenberg
wfritz at mindspring.com
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
> [Original Message]
> From: Gianni D'Ortenzio <giannid at bigpond.com>
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: 2/15/2009 7:32:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
>
> obviously no swivel balls!
> steering rods fine
> tie rod ends will be checked again and may be at fault though all seemed
> good on reassembly
> wheel alignment fine
> thanks for input
> Gianni
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Read" <defender110 at ozemail.com.au>
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
>
>
> > Hi Gianni
> > Try checking your ..........
> > * swivel ball preload
> > * steering rods for bends
> > * tie rod ends
> > * wheel alignment
> >
> > Cheers
> > Dave
> > South Oz
> >
> > Gianni D'Ortenzio wrote:
> >> new engine, great overhauled steering box which doesn't leak and much
> >> improved (modified brakes) means getting the coupe back on the road
has
> >> been very exciting but the steering has developed a shake come rattle
> >> a shim on the top bearing on the column seems to have made everything
> >> feel more solid but rattle persists and it has a light vibration as
well
> >> all the front suspension rubbers have been replaced and the wheels
> >> balanced
> >> anyone with thoughts/similar experience/ideas?
> >> Gianni
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Rovernet mailing list
> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> >
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> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Mon Feb 16 11:09:45 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:09:45 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <2ACFA9756A7B4E448CBE043273D6A315@Skater901>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl><20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au>
<COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
<2ACFA9756A7B4E448CBE043273D6A315@Skater901>
Message-ID: <COL114-W20B1EAEA1D4BEC91226B59EB70@phx.gbl>
PVS is three from three!!! Thanks. I guess there is fuel crud in the jet on one of the carbs or something. Anyway, time to clean the fuel lines and jets.
THANKS!
Adrian
PS. What are the numbers in the California lottery tomorrow?
----------------------------------------
> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:49:16 +1100
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
>
> It means that one carby is rich, the other lean.
> They feed inner 2 one side, outer 2 the other.
> Firing order is 1 8 6 5 4 3 7 2
> so even induction occurs on
> 1 6 4 7 outer lefts and inner rights
> and
> 8 5 3 2 outer rights and inner lefts
>
> I can't remember which carb feeds which though. Could work it out by
> looking at my 3500 in daylight though.
> It should be easy to figure out, adjust left carb then right carb with
> colourtune in #1.
>
> PVS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Adrian McDonald"
> To: "Rovernet"
> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
>
>
>
>
> All
>
> After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal
> power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now
> removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage
> busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after
> fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive).
> Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I
> started on my "improvement" initiatives.
>
> I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking
> through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and
> seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders
> run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two
> cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down
> in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich.
> what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold?
> There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you
> pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More
> Hmmmmmmm
>
> Thanks to everyone
> cheers
> Adrian
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_022009
From gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com Mon Feb 16 11:39:19 2009
From: gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com (gianluca.ruotolo at enel.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:39:19 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Looking for land rover pick up cab,
series II or II A
In-Reply-To: <410-220092116155239171@mindspring.com>
References: <410-220092116155239171@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <AD15D6E6287C7B45BFF991A72C84E38A0196D0E1@E30IYLMJ.risorse.enel>
Dear friends,
On behalf of a land rover enthusiast from udine I am looking for a spare
part, as in object.
The part is land rover pick up cab, series II or II A.
We do not need the windscreen.
To be sure of what we' re speaking about, have a look at this book:
Land Rover repair operation manual, series II and II A,
Book also called AKM 8159.
Have a look at page 28 Q, fig. Q1 - 25.
The car is a 1960 series II land rover, coming from Denmark .
Every advice will be appreciated.
Please be so kind to let me know.
Best regards and thanks in advance, Gianluca.
_______________________________________________
Rovernet mailing list
Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
no-mail:
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
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From mp349 at xtra.co.nz Mon Feb 16 12:53:16 2009
From: mp349 at xtra.co.nz (Michael Pellow)
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 06:53:16 +1300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <COL114-W20B1EAEA1D4BEC91226B59EB70@phx.gbl>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl><20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter> <000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au> <COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
<2ACFA9756A7B4E448CBE043273D6A315@Skater901>
<COL114-W20B1EAEA1D4BEC91226B59EB70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4999A80C.80203@xtra.co.nz>
The reason for this is very simple.The manifold cross feeds the
engine.The two inner cylinders are fed by the carb on the other side of
the motor so that the length of the manifold to each cylinder is
approximately the same.Therefore one carb is running rich & the other is
is to lean.follow the Rover manual's tuning instructions.
loosen the balance adjuster between the two carbs.Using a piece of hose
,about 400mm long (A piece of garden hose will do), put is close th the
throat of the cars & adjust each of the idle speeds till the hiss on
both side sounds the same.Be sue that the hose is placed at the same
place on both carbs.
Using your colour tune you can then adjust the mixture to each bank #1 &
# 5 of the carb on the same side. tweek the idle speed again to ensure
same noise on both side then lock up the linkage between the 2 carbs.
Michael Pellow
slave to a number of Rovers
Adrian McDonald wrote:
> PVS is three from three!!! Thanks. I guess there is fuel crud in the jet on one of the carbs or something. Anyway, time to clean the fuel lines and jets.
>
> THANKS!
> Adrian
> PS. What are the numbers in the California lottery tomorrow?
> ----------------------------------------
>> From: vmitps at netspace.net.au
>> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:49:16 +1100
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
>>
>> It means that one carby is rich, the other lean.
>> They feed inner 2 one side, outer 2 the other.
>> Firing order is 1 8 6 5 4 3 7 2
>> so even induction occurs on
>> 1 6 4 7 outer lefts and inner rights
>> and
>> 8 5 3 2 outer rights and inner lefts
>>
>> I can't remember which carb feeds which though. Could work it out by
>> looking at my 3500 in daylight though.
>> It should be easy to figure out, adjust left carb then right carb with
>> colourtune in #1.
>>
>> PVS
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Adrian McDonald"
>> To: "Rovernet"
>> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:53 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> All
>>
>> After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal
>> power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now
>> removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage
>> busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after
>> fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive).
>> Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I
>> started on my "improvement" initiatives.
>>
>> I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking
>> through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and
>> seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders
>> run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two
>> cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down
>> in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich.
>> what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold?
>> There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you
>> pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More
>> Hmmmmmmm
>>
>> Thanks to everyone
>> cheers
>> Adrian
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
>> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_022009
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live?: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
> http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_022009
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
From giannid at bigpond.com Mon Feb 16 16:10:56 2009
From: giannid at bigpond.com (Gianni D'Ortenzio)
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 08:10:56 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
References: <410-220092116155239171@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <61A03808D43B43059451118C21836C87@Giannis>
thanks will check that as well
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fritz Rauschenberg" <wfritz at mindspring.com>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
> Try tightening the bolts securing the idler box to the bulkhead, if you
> haven't already. I'm coming in late on this thread.
>
> Fritz Rauschenberg
> wfritz at mindspring.com
> EarthLink Revolves Around You.
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Gianni D'Ortenzio <giannid at bigpond.com>
>> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Date: 2/15/2009 7:32:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
>>
>> obviously no swivel balls!
>> steering rods fine
>> tie rod ends will be checked again and may be at fault though all seemed
>> good on reassembly
>> wheel alignment fine
>> thanks for input
>> Gianni
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "David Read" <defender110 at ozemail.com.au>
>> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
>> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:52 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] steering rattle shake P5B
>>
>>
>> > Hi Gianni
>> > Try checking your ..........
>> > * swivel ball preload
>> > * steering rods for bends
>> > * tie rod ends
>> > * wheel alignment
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> > Dave
>> > South Oz
>> >
>> > Gianni D'Ortenzio wrote:
>> >> new engine, great overhauled steering box which doesn't leak and much
>> >> improved (modified brakes) means getting the coupe back on the road
> has
>> >> been very exciting but the steering has developed a shake come rattle
>> >> a shim on the top bearing on the column seems to have made everything
>> >> feel more solid but rattle persists and it has a light vibration as
> well
>> >> all the front suspension rubbers have been replaced and the wheels
>> >> balanced
>> >> anyone with thoughts/similar experience/ideas?
>> >> Gianni
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Rovernet mailing list
>> > Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> > Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
>> > http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> > Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> > http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> > Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>> >
>> >
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>> _______________________________________________
>> Rovernet mailing list
>> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
>> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
>> no-mail:
>> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
>> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
>> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
>> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
>> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From geffandjulie at comcast.net Tue Feb 17 13:59:44 2009
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 10:59:44 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S NADA vapor lock
In-Reply-To: <000301c9900a$8939f780$9bade680$@com.au>
References: <COL114-W715BB2B0ECA95572D77059EC00@phx.gbl> <20090205094207.NSXJ19114.nskntotgx01p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter> <000c01c98780$2e63b5e0$8b2b21a0$@com.au> <COL114-W40CD840E0894353E6EBC309EB70@phx.gbl>
<000301c9900a$8939f780$9bade680$@com.au>
Message-ID: <005001c99131$e5e8bcf0$b1ba36d0$@net>
The NADA cars were specially equipped to avoid vapor lock: the hot-rod like
bonnet (if it were really a hot rod that piece in the front would be a
"hood") has air cooling vents, and there is a pressurized electric fuel
pump, located at the tank. The return line is still there, too.
AvMedSafe
Geff and Julie McCarthy
677 NW Melinda Ave
Portland OR 97210
503-241-8468
503-799-3809 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Damien
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 11:45 PM
To: 'The original list for Rover car enthusiasts.'
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
Just as a side and I don't know if this applies to the Federal 3500s but
here in oz there is a return fuel line from the carbies to the tank and I
have had problems with fuel starving as I have been getting vapour locks
when it is warm. What I have done is take the return line off at the carby
and using compressed air (either air compressor or lungs) blow back until
you hear the air bubbling in the tank'
Just a little side problem I have had
Damien
Brisbane (Land down under)
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Adrian McDonald
Sent: Monday, 16 February 2009 3:53 PM
To: Rovernet
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
All
After endless tinkering, the 27BHP 3500S has been reverted to a more normal
power output. Its a long story, but sloppy vacuum tubing joints (now
removed), no timing marks, and the PVS predicted fuel starvation (blockage
busting coathanger poked up into fuel tank from below did the trick after
fuel pump dried out and confirmed the problem - noisily - on test drive).
Now the car is in the same state of tune as it was two weeks ago before I
started on my "improvement" initiatives.
I did notice that a weird symmetry in the combustion process when looking
through the colortune window, and verified by pulling the HT leads off and
seeing what happened (or not). On the left bank, the middle two cyclinders
run very rich and the outer two run lean. On the right bank, the middle two
cylinders run very lean and the outer two run rich. When you write this down
in the firing order it goes lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich.
what's up with that? Is this normal, or a property of the inlet manifold?
There is quite a big difference between the lean and rich. At idle if you
pull one of the lean HT leads off, the rpm's are completely unaffected. More
Hmmmmmmm
Thanks to everyone
cheers
Adrian
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveT: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0220
09
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From bwhitten at optusnet.com.au Wed Feb 18 01:35:00 2009
From: bwhitten at optusnet.com.au (bwhitten at optusnet.com.au)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:35:00 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas helmet style battery terminals.
Message-ID: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed...
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From slatskars at comcast.net Wed Feb 18 01:50:01 2009
From: slatskars at comcast.net (slatskars at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 06:50:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas helmet style battery terminals.
In-Reply-To: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
Message-ID: <2139040023.934751234939801130.JavaMail.root@sz0140a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Ben,
They can be drilled and you are correct, use the drill for the same size wood or sheet metal screw. Recognize that the inside of the Lucas terminal may be slightly enlarged from years of use/abuse. The top of the post and terminal will amke contact, but of copurse the more contact surface the better. Possible shave a little off of the top of the battery terminal in order to lower the Lucas helmet/cap onto the broader portion of the tapered post.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: bwhitten at optusnet.com.au
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 10:35:00 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas helmet style battery terminals.
I have to put a new battery in my 2000TC for the first time. The cable end connectors are Lucas helmet ?style with a screw that goes directly into the top of each battery terminal. Is it still possible to buy a battery with that style of top threaded terminal? I've looked around and I think not. Or do I have to drill holes into a regular battery terminal as it looks like the previous owner did to the old battery.
Any tips on drilling into lead? Is it like wood, where you drill the hole a bit smaller than the screw. And the screw cuts it's own thread into the soft lead. I wouldn't want to split a terminal!
I could put new battery cable clamps on , but now I've noticed the Lucas ones, I like the look of them and would like to retain them.
thanks,
Ben
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
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From bwhitten at optusnet.com.au Wed Feb 18 02:20:29 2009
From: bwhitten at optusnet.com.au (bwhitten at optusnet.com.au)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:20:29 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas helmet style battery terminals.
Message-ID: <200902180720.n1I7KZ2Y010508@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
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From jaguru at bellsouth.net Wed Feb 18 02:22:18 2009
From: jaguru at bellsouth.net (James Dean)
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 23:22:18 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas helmet style battery terminals.
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
Message-ID: <000c01c99199$c4424130$6101a8c0@toshibauser>
Drill with a nail, not a drill bit; the bit will go too quickly into the
lead. I have 2 new helmet cables for sale on my eBay store, if anyone needs
them. Contact me jaguru at bellsouth.net. Thank you, James Dean, Ft.
Lauderdale.
----- Original Message -----
From: <bwhitten at optusnet.com.au>
To: <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 10:35 PM
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Lucas helmet style battery terminals.
>
> I have to put a new battery in my 2000TC for the first time. The cable end
> connectors are Lucas helmet style with a screw that goes directly into
> the top of each battery terminal. Is it still possible to buy a battery
> with that style of top threaded terminal? I've looked around and I think
> not. Or do I have to drill holes into a regular battery terminal as it
> looks like the previous owner did to the old battery.
>
> Any tips on drilling into lead? Is it like wood, where you drill the hole
> a bit smaller than the screw. And the screw cuts it's own thread into the
> soft lead. I wouldn't want to split a terminal!
>
> I could put new battery cable clamps on , but now I've noticed the Lucas
> ones, I like the look of them and would like to retain them.
>
> thanks,
> Ben
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From RoverP6 at gmx.de Wed Feb 18 16:25:38 2009
From: RoverP6 at gmx.de (RoverP6 at gmx.de)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 22:25:38 +0100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500 S / Germany
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
Message-ID: <7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=de&id=104763983&pageNumber=1&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.consumerGrossEuro&sortOption.sortOrder=ASCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=21700&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&vehicleCategory=Car&segment=Car&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1980-12-31&siteId=GERMANY&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&export=ALSO_EXPORT&customerIdsAsString=&tabNumber=1
NADA 3500 S - > VIN number 433...
This P6 has a 484 VIN number (3500 S, Export, left-hand-drive)
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Wed Feb 18 22:01:13 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Hotmail)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 22:01:13 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Help with a part
In-Reply-To: <7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
<7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP8707B63C7F1FDFAB3A74DB0B20@phx.gbl>
>
Hi All
I wonder if anyone can help me. I'm looking for replacement brake
reservoir for my 2000TC. It has three pipes for both brake circuits
and one pipe for the clutch. The one I have on the car has lots of
small cracks from age and sweats fluid over time.
Many thanks,
Steven Dibdin
From vern at inkspotco.com Wed Feb 18 22:13:17 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:13:17 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Help with a part
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP8707B63C7F1FDFAB3A74DB0B20@phx.gbl>
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
<7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
<BLU0-SMTP8707B63C7F1FDFAB3A74DB0B20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <87E66028-D419-4B7B-8B0A-2F8EC9468CFA@inkspotco.com>
You must mean it has three outlets total ;-)
I will look, I'm pretty sure I have a couple of spares. No lid though.
Yours
Vern
On 18-Feb-09, at 7:01 PM, Hotmail wrote:
>>
> Hi All
>
> I wonder if anyone can help me. I'm looking for replacement brake
> reservoir for my 2000TC. It has three pipes for both brake circuits
> and one pipe for the clutch. The one I have on the car has lots of
> small cracks from age and sweats fluid over time.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Steven Dibdin
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu Wed Feb 18 22:20:45 2009
From: s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu (S Manwell)
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 22:20:45 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Help with a part
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP8707B63C7F1FDFAB3A74DB0B20@phx.gbl>
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au> <7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
<BLU0-SMTP8707B63C7F1FDFAB3A74DB0B20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <499CD00D.1010602@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Steven,
Thanks to some recent sorting of Rover parts, I was able to check the
brake parts department (one of the stacks of crates in the basement) and
it looks like there are at least two of the reservoirs in there. I will
send you one assuming that at least one is crack-free.
--Steve
Hotmail wrote:
>>
> Hi All
>
> I wonder if anyone can help me. I'm looking for replacement brake
> reservoir for my 2000TC. It has three pipes for both brake circuits
> and one pipe for the clutch. The one I have on the car has lots of
> small cracks from age and sweats fluid over time.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Steven Dibdin
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
From boulter.t.h at bigpond.com Thu Feb 19 06:19:47 2009
From: boulter.t.h at bigpond.com (Tanya&Hugh Boulter)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 22:19:47 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] 3500 S Parts
In-Reply-To: <499CD00D.1010602@alum.swarthmore.edu>
Message-ID: <20090219111957.JRDU7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
Hi Guys,
I am looking for:-
1. An English style 3500 S steering wheel and boss. I presently have a
leather and aluminium motoa lita wheel on what is otherwise a reasonably
original car.
2. Centre section for a Mark 2 grill
I am looking for some thing in good or better condition and happy to pay
good price / top price for the right thing.
Can anybody help me please.
Yours in Roving
Hugh
Hugh Boulter
Canberra ACT
Australia
From sdibdin at hotmail.com Thu Feb 19 07:23:40 2009
From: sdibdin at hotmail.com (Steven Dibdin)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:23:40 +0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Help with a part
In-Reply-To: <87E66028-D419-4B7B-8B0A-2F8EC9468CFA@inkspotco.com>
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
<7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
<BLU0-SMTP8707B63C7F1FDFAB3A74DB0B20@phx.gbl>
<87E66028-D419-4B7B-8B0A-2F8EC9468CFA@inkspotco.com>
Message-ID: <BAY106-W9AB409CA5CF6523FD8D0CB0B20@phx.gbl>
Hi Vern,
Sorry, I meant to say two pipes for the brake circuits and one for the clutch. Sorry about that. Steve Manwell says he may have one too. I'm only after the jar part the cap is in good nick so should be okay. If steve finds he can't help I might take you up on your offer.
Many thanks for the reply,
Steven D
From wfritz at mindspring.com Thu Feb 19 07:34:18 2009
From: wfritz at mindspring.com (Fritz Rauschenberg)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 07:34:18 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Help with a part
Message-ID: <410-220092419123418171@mindspring.com>
I might have one! It'll be later today before I can check my stash-hang on.
Fritz Rauschenberg
Atlanta
Fritz Rauschenberg
wfritz at mindspring.com
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
> [Original Message]
> From: Hotmail <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
> To: The original list for Rover car enthusiasts. <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: 2/18/2009 10:02:42 PM
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Help with a part
>
> >
> Hi All
>
> I wonder if anyone can help me. I'm looking for replacement brake
> reservoir for my 2000TC. It has three pipes for both brake circuits
> and one pipe for the clutch. The one I have on the car has lots of
> small cracks from age and sweats fluid over time.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Steven Dibdin
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From chris at chris-wilson.org Thu Feb 19 14:28:31 2009
From: chris at chris-wilson.org (Chris J Wilson)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 19:28:31 -0000
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500 S / Germany
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1235062805.17753.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
References: <mailman.3.1235062805.17753.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <00f801c992c8$407650a0$c162f1e0$@org>
Rudiger,
That is a beautiful car, but it has been modified. The interior appears to
be from several different cars, manual choke has been fitted and a few other
small things including the UK-sized rear number plate plinth.
If I had to guess about the 484-id strip, I'd say that it has been taken
from another car, perhaps one that wasn't registered in Germany, so that one
car becomes another. I'd be interested in seeing if the proper NADA id strip
is present on the door..
Chris
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 22:25:38 +0100
From: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500 S / Germany
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
<rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Message-ID: <7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401 at rw>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=de&id=104763983&page
Number=1&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.consumerGrossEuro&sortOption.sort
Order=ASCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=21700&makeModelVariant1.searchInFre
etext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searc
hInFreetext=false&vehicleCategory=Car&segment=Car&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1
980-12-31&siteId=GERMANY&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&export=ALSO_E
XPORT&customerIdsAsString=&tabNumber=1
NADA 3500 S - > VIN number 433...
This P6 has a 484 VIN number (3500 S, Export, left-hand-drive)
Rudiger
www.RoverP6.info
From vern at inkspotco.com Thu Feb 19 15:13:13 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:13:13 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500 S / Germany
In-Reply-To: <00f801c992c8$407650a0$c162f1e0$@org>
References: <mailman.3.1235062805.17753.rovernet_rovernet.ca@rovernet.ca>
<00f801c992c8$407650a0$c162f1e0$@org>
Message-ID: <7E728CB5-908B-441B-A33A-627B01B11C7C@inkspotco.com>
I'm pretty sure this was not originally a NADA 3500S, but a LHD 3500
with the NADA bits added. My main clues: 1. the real wood replacing
the formica and the mix of upholstery tell me it was owned by a
tinkerer 2. No black aluminum trim at the bottom of the front fender
and, most tellingly 3. The service sticker under the hood is not what
you would see on a real NADA, and certainly appears original to the car.
Yours
Vern
On 19-Feb-09, at 11:28 AM, Chris J Wilson wrote:
> Rudiger,
>
> That is a beautiful car, but it has been modified. The interior
> appears to
> be from several different cars, manual choke has been fitted and a
> few other
> small things including the UK-sized rear number plate plinth.
>
> If I had to guess about the 484-id strip, I'd say that it has been
> taken
> from another car, perhaps one that wasn't registered in Germany, so
> that one
> car becomes another. I'd be interested in seeing if the proper NADA
> id strip
> is present on the door..
>
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 22:25:38 +0100
> From: <RoverP6 at gmx.de>
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500 S / Germany
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts."
> <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Message-ID: <7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401 at rw>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?lang=de&id=104763983&page
> Number
> =1&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.consumerGrossEuro&sortOption.sort
> Order
> =
> ASCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=21700&makeModelVariant1.searchInFre
> etext
> =
> false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searc
> hInFreetext
> =false&vehicleCategory=Car&segment=Car&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1
> 980
> -12
> -31&siteId=GERMANY&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&export=ALSO_E
> XPORT&customerIdsAsString=&tabNumber=1
>
>
> NADA 3500 S - > VIN number 433...
>
> This P6 has a 484 VIN number (3500 S, Export, left-hand-drive)
>
>
> Rudiger
> www.RoverP6.info
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From smokeandsteam at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 09:05:17 2009
From: smokeandsteam at gmail.com (Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton)
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 06:05:17 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500 S / Germany
In-Reply-To: <7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au>
<7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
Message-ID: <204ec4390902200605l5f106d8pa912c0e7c6bd474b@mail.gmail.com>
Like Chris and Vern I think this is probaly a stand-in possibly using
a Series II 3500S base unit and some "Federal" panels. A comission
number beginning in 484 suggests a build date after North American
3500s production finished.
However Rover's commission numbers are not always entirely logical and
according to Taylor the 484 series seems to have come into use a few
months before the Series II 3500S with manual gearbox was officially
released in the late autumn of 1971. I wonder if this was a way of
using up some of the left over parts or cars from the Federal run?
From irishrover1 at sympatico.ca Fri Feb 20 10:12:06 2009
From: irishrover1 at sympatico.ca (BEN RODGERS)
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:12:06 -0400
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] [Rovernet -Famous Rover People in
Print!!!!
References: <200902180635.n1I6Z0A8001753@mail02.syd.optusnet.com.au><7B07FDBAC0F74483BBBC2F23CA4B2401@rw>
<204ec4390902200605l5f106d8pa912c0e7c6bd474b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP10D2E86F588A3DDD176BFB95B30@phx.gbl>
Hi Fellow Rovernuts
I got quite a surprise today while thumbing thru
an old issue of "Sports & Exotic Cars" dated Oct 2008. See page number 46,
Roverdrive, with such well known rover enthusiast as Dick Burrows, the
Manwells, Harvey Dermot, Peter King and the Daddis's standing alongside
there marvellous Rovers! Well done guys a great article.
Regards Ben (irishrover)
Visit our website and blog at
www.irishroversbooks.com
From ABoasberg at webtv.net Sat Feb 21 06:52:23 2009
From: ABoasberg at webtv.net (Albert Boasberg)
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 03:52:23 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
In-Reply-To: Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton <smokeandsteam@gmail.com>'s message
of Fri, 20 Feb 2009 06:05:17 -0800
Message-ID: <11836-499FEAF7-5931@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
We put new brake pads and calipers on my 1970 3500S and the brakes now
sometimes squeal loudly when coming to a stop.
Is this a condition which will gradually get better as the pads wear or
is there something we can do to eliminate the squeals now?
There is no loss of braking power.
Thanks.
Albert
From Harveyjohnw at aol.com Sat Feb 21 07:46:39 2009
From: Harveyjohnw at aol.com (Harveyjohnw at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 07:46:39 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
Message-ID: <cda.47096a27.36d151af@aol.com>
Yes you can coat the back of the brake pads with copperslip grease ,
In a message dated 21/02/2009 11:53:11 GMT Standard Time,
ABoasberg at webtv.net writes:
We put new brake pads and calipers on my 1970 3500S and the brakes now
sometimes squeal loudly when coming to a stop.
Is this a condition which will gradually get better as the pads wear or
is there something we can do to eliminate the squeals now?
There is no loss of braking power.
Thanks.
Albert
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From roger.matheson at bigpond.com Sat Feb 21 08:11:19 2009
From: roger.matheson at bigpond.com (Roger.Matheson)
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 00:11:19 +1100
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
References: <11836-499FEAF7-5931@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <002d01c99425$e2ff6920$0100000a@homea7f046a5f4>
Did you fit the thin metal shims between the pad and the pistons, referred
to in some books as the damping shim
Cheers Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Boasberg" <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
> We put new brake pads and calipers on my 1970 3500S and the brakes now
> sometimes squeal loudly when coming to a stop.
>
> Is this a condition which will gradually get better as the pads wear or
> is there something we can do to eliminate the squeals now?
>
> There is no loss of braking power.
>
> Thanks.
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.11.1/1961 - Release Date:
> 19/02/2009 6:45 PM
>
>
From p6rovers at yahoo.com Sat Feb 21 12:11:50 2009
From: p6rovers at yahoo.com (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 09:11:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
In-Reply-To: <11836-499FEAF7-5931@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <423308.58056.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Albert,
Here are some links regarding brake squeal:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/bsqueal.htm
One factor is the hardness of the brake pad material. The harder the material - the longer it lasts, but they can squeal. The softer the material - the less they last, the less likely to squeal.
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/brakes/ques001_3.html
You will likely have to put up with the squeal.
Eric
Webmaster of The Rover Car Club of Canada
Website: http://www.roverclub.ca/
Webmaster of a variety of sites from:
http://www.websrus.ca
--- On Sat, 2/21/09, Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net> wrote:
> From: Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
> Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
> To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
> Date: Saturday, February 21, 2009, 3:52 AM
> We put new brake pads and calipers on my 1970 3500S and the
> brakes now
> sometimes squeal loudly when coming to a stop.
>
> Is this a condition which will gradually get better as the
> pads wear or
> is there something we can do to eliminate the squeals now?
>
> There is no loss of braking power.
>
> Thanks.
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest
> mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From roverfreak619 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 21 12:40:00 2009
From: roverfreak619 at yahoo.com (Rover freak)
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 09:40:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] brakes squeal
Message-ID: <619551.9636.qm@web111310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
as for the brakes making a quealing noise,, you might want to machine(resurface) the rotors too,or possible replace them for new ones...
>From Nelson O'
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From mp349 at xtra.co.nz Sat Feb 21 15:59:22 2009
From: mp349 at xtra.co.nz (Michael Pellow)
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 09:59:22 +1300
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
In-Reply-To: <11836-499FEAF7-5931@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
References: <11836-499FEAF7-5931@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <49A06B2A.3020305@xtra.co.nz>
make sure as Roger has suggested that you have put the brake shims back
in.These stop the back of the pads rubbing on the pistons.There seems to
be more likely hood of new pads squealing as a lot are now "asbestos
free" and seemed to be more prone to squealing.Be aware that the
"asbestos free" pads also wear much faster.Some companies make a special
grease that sticks to the back of the break pads and wont seep on to the
brake discs.You really only need to change or skim the discs( sorry
rotors) if they are scoured or warped.
Michael Pellow
caretaker to a lot of old Rovers
Albert Boasberg wrote:
> We put new brake pads and calipers on my 1970 3500S and the brakes now
> sometimes squeal loudly when coming to a stop.
>
> Is this a condition which will gradually get better as the pads wear or
> is there something we can do to eliminate the squeals now?
>
> There is no loss of braking power.
>
> Thanks.
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
From ianalice at shaw.ca Sat Feb 21 17:08:43 2009
From: ianalice at shaw.ca (Alice and Ian Potts)
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:08:43 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
References: <11836-499FEAF7-5931@storefull-3112.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <802C97C7FFF748D884D570EA60DC269D@jimrsl7dsabc2y>
Try fitting a shaped cutting from a waxed milk carton between the brake
piston and the shoe. This worked fine for me with a 3500 a few years ago.
Ian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Boasberg" <ABoasberg at webtv.net>
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Brakes Squeal
> We put new brake pads and calipers on my 1970 3500S and the brakes now
> sometimes squeal loudly when coming to a stop.
>
> Is this a condition which will gradually get better as the pads wear or
> is there something we can do to eliminate the squeals now?
>
> There is no loss of braking power.
>
> Thanks.
> Albert
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.2/1964 - Release Date: 02/21/09
11:05:00
From britcarnut at yahoo.com Tue Feb 24 17:01:52 2009
From: britcarnut at yahoo.com (Geoff Kirkpatrick)
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 14:01:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
Message-ID: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Roverites,
I thought I had been very clever when I rebuilt the left front caliper on my 3500S. I unscrewed the brake line between the caliper and the hose, and quickly capped off the hose with minimal dripping. I figured it would now be a slam-dunk to reinstall the caliper, bleed it, and drive off victoriously into the sunset.
It took me a few months gathering parts and finding garage time, but I finally finished the rebuild this weekend and reinstalled the caliper. Now the dreaded hard-and-useless pedal feel has reared its ugly head, and pressing the pedal results in absolutely no fluid coming out the bleed screw. I studied the workshop manual diagram intently, and I can't figure out how to reintroduce fluid into that section of the braking system so that it is no longer blanked off. What's the secret? I beseech you, oh gurus of all things P6B!
In desperation,
Geoff Kirkpatrick
"This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be of no possible service to him."
- William Lyon Phelps
Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA
From geffandjulie at comcast.net Tue Feb 24 21:09:16 2009
From: geffandjulie at comcast.net (Geff McCarthy)
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:09:16 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
In-Reply-To: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <019501c996ee$109d58e0$31d80aa0$@net>
If you fill both reservoirs with the pedal up, fluid should flow down into
both sides. It is possible that the splitter valve on the right front
firewall is stuck in one position. If so, I think that would impede fluid
flow.
AvMedSafe
Geff and Julie McCarthy
677 NW Melinda Ave
Portland OR 97210
503-241-8468
503-799-3809 mobile
-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca] On
Behalf Of Geoff Kirkpatrick
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 2:02 PM
To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
Roverites,
I thought I had been very clever when I rebuilt the left front caliper on my
3500S. I unscrewed the brake line between the caliper and the hose, and
quickly capped off the hose with minimal dripping. I figured it would now
be a slam-dunk to reinstall the caliper, bleed it, and drive off
victoriously into the sunset.
It took me a few months gathering parts and finding garage time, but I
finally finished the rebuild this weekend and reinstalled the caliper. Now
the dreaded hard-and-useless pedal feel has reared its ugly head, and
pressing the pedal results in absolutely no fluid coming out the bleed
screw. I studied the workshop manual diagram intently, and I can't figure
out how to reintroduce fluid into that section of the braking system so that
it is no longer blanked off. What's the secret? I beseech you, oh gurus of
all things P6B!
In desperation,
Geoff Kirkpatrick
"This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be of
no possible service to him."
- William Lyon Phelps
Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA
_______________________________________________
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Rovernet at rovernet.ca
Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
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http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From lafbery at telus.net Wed Feb 25 00:34:23 2009
From: lafbery at telus.net (Barry & Shirley Lafbery)
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 21:34:23 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
In-Reply-To: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6DA29BADA0444353AFF552D9EF75EFEA@ChloePC>
Hi Geoff,
On the 3500s there no hydraulic connection between the master
cylinder and the front calibers.
If you have a factory work shop manual at the start of the brake section it
explains how the brakes work and states this fact. What I did with mine was,
after bleeding the rears and they will bleed easily as there is a direct
hydraulic link between the m/c and the rear calibers. With the bleed bottle
in place on the right side first (left hand drive cars) start the engine,
then remove the little filter cover that is on the atmospheric valve, that
is the plastic thing on the bottom of the master cylinder, then with your
fingers gently lift the rubber valve, this will work the brake booster that
is connected to the front calibers this will then bleed the front brakes. Or
you can you can use the brake pedal with the engine running. I found it
worked best working the valve by hand. I had a real hard time trying to
bleed mine until I got this advice.
Hope this helps
I thought I had been very clever when I rebuilt the left front caliper on
my 3500S. I unscrewed the brake line between the caliper and the hose, and
quickly capped off the hose with minimal dripping. I figured it would now
be a slam-dunk to reinstall the caliper, bleed it, and drive off
victoriously into the sunset.
>
> It took me a few months gathering parts and finding garage time, but I
> finally finished the rebuild this weekend and reinstalled the caliper.
> Now the dreaded hard-and-useless pedal feel has reared its ugly head, and
> pressing the pedal results in absolutely no fluid coming out the bleed
> screw. I studied the workshop manual diagram intently, and I can't figure
> out how to reintroduce fluid into that section of the braking system so
> that it is no longer blanked off. What's the secret? I beseech you, oh
> gurus of all things P6B!
>
> In desperation,
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick
>
> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can be
> of no possible service to him."
> - William Lyon Phelps
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.3/1970 - Release Date: 02/24/09
13:35:00
From vern at inkspotco.com Wed Feb 25 00:45:09 2009
From: vern at inkspotco.com (Vern Klukas)
Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 21:45:09 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
In-Reply-To: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AE668D08-B804-4236-BA17-0B46534377A1@inkspotco.com>
I think Barry has answered your question.
Another tip (for next time): Before fitting the caliper, fill it with
fluid as well. You'll find that will give you at least a soft pedal
even before you start bleeding.
Of course, doing that means yet another thing that can leak on the
floor in the procedure ;-)
Yours
Vern
On 24-Feb-09, at 2:01 PM, Geoff Kirkpatrick wrote:
> Roverites,
>
> I thought I had been very clever when I rebuilt the left front
> caliper on my 3500S. I unscrewed the brake line between the caliper
> and the hose, and quickly capped off the hose with minimal
> dripping. I figured it would now be a slam-dunk to reinstall the
> caliper, bleed it, and drive off victoriously into the sunset.
>
> It took me a few months gathering parts and finding garage time, but
> I finally finished the rebuild this weekend and reinstalled the
> caliper. Now the dreaded hard-and-useless pedal feel has reared its
> ugly head, and pressing the pedal results in absolutely no fluid
> coming out the bleed screw. I studied the workshop manual diagram
> intently, and I can't figure out how to reintroduce fluid into that
> section of the braking system so that it is no longer blanked off.
> What's the secret? I beseech you, oh gurus of all things P6B!
>
> In desperation,
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick
>
> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who
> can be of no possible service to him."
> - William Lyon Phelps
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or no-
> mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From MarkCoorparoo at aol.com Wed Feb 25 07:56:31 2009
From: MarkCoorparoo at aol.com (MarkCoorparoo at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 07:56:31 EST
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] R: Daimler Connquest century,
2.5 litres
Message-ID: <d1d.3ee0cbdc.36d699ff@aol.com>
Sorry All,
Behind again, GianLuca Daimler looks so much like an
earlier version of the dust covered Majestic I know of in Brisbane. Engine looks
the same. The woodwork looks the same as an earlier Daimler that I bought and
sold when I was thirteen. I was into boats, woodwork was very easy to fix.
Lovely cars. Fit with current traffic..
Regards,
Mark Jones.
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From roverman2 at verizon.net Wed Feb 25 10:58:09 2009
From: roverman2 at verizon.net (Dermot Harvey)
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 10:58:09 -0500
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
In-Reply-To: <019501c996ee$109d58e0$31d80aa0$@net>
References: <228765.27551.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
<019501c996ee$109d58e0$31d80aa0$@net>
Message-ID: <B5A5E2FD-A086-4BA8-AB13-2753468DD9BD@verizon.net>
It is possible that the flexible brake hose to the caliper has
swollen shut. Not uncommon with old brake hoses, particularly if the
wrong brake fluid has been used at some point.
Unscrew the rubber hose at the inner fender and see if any fluid is
coming out.
Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics
On Feb 24, 2009, at 9:09 PM, Geff McCarthy wrote:
> If you fill both reservoirs with the pedal up, fluid should flow
> down into
> both sides. It is possible that the splitter valve on the right front
> firewall is stuck in one position. If so, I think that would
> impede fluid
> flow.
>
> AvMedSafe
> Geff and Julie McCarthy
> 677 NW Melinda Ave
> Portland OR 97210
> 503-241-8468
> 503-799-3809 mobile
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-
> bounces at rovernet.ca] On
> Behalf Of Geoff Kirkpatrick
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 2:02 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help
> needed
>
> Roverites,
>
> I thought I had been very clever when I rebuilt the left front
> caliper on my
> 3500S. I unscrewed the brake line between the caliper and the
> hose, and
> quickly capped off the hose with minimal dripping. I figured it
> would now
> be a slam-dunk to reinstall the caliper, bleed it, and drive off
> victoriously into the sunset.
>
> It took me a few months gathering parts and finding garage time, but I
> finally finished the rebuild this weekend and reinstalled the
> caliper. Now
> the dreaded hard-and-useless pedal feel has reared its ugly head, and
> pressing the pedal results in absolutely no fluid coming out the bleed
> screw. I studied the workshop manual diagram intently, and I can't
> figure
> out how to reintroduce fluid into that section of the braking
> system so that
> it is no longer blanked off. What's the secret? I beseech you, oh
> gurus of
> all things P6B!
>
> In desperation,
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick
>
> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who
> can be of
> no possible service to him."
> - William Lyon Phelps
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Rovernet mailing list
> Rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Here is where you can change your settings such as digest mode or
> no-mail:
> http://rovernet.ca/mailman/listinfo/rovernet_rovernet.ca
> Here is the old Rovernet archives:
> http://www.rovernet.ca/Old..Archives/
> Join the Back-up list and post photos at:
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
From pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 25 11:57:22 2009
From: pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net (pmholbrook at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 08:57:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
In-Reply-To: <B5A5E2FD-A086-4BA8-AB13-2753468DD9BD@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <796773.96273.qm@web83008.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
I had this problem twice on my old P5, both times it was rubber bits?in the flexible line, breaking of and blocking things, replace the rubber lines and flush with?the nipple out, sometimes takes a lot of pressure on the pedal to move theses bits,
Cheers, Peter
--- On Wed, 2/25/09, Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net> wrote:
From: Dermot Harvey <roverman2 at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
To: "The original list for Rover car enthusiasts." <rovernet at rovernet.ca>
Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 7:58 AM
It is possible that the flexible brake hose to the caliper has swollen shut. Not
uncommon with old brake hoses, particularly if the wrong brake fluid has been
used at some point.
Unscrew the rubber hose at the inner fender and see if any fluid is coming out.
Dermot Harvey
Spectral Kinetics
On Feb 24, 2009, at 9:09 PM, Geff McCarthy wrote:
> If you fill both reservoirs with the pedal up, fluid should flow down into
> both sides. It is possible that the splitter valve on the right front
> firewall is stuck in one position. If so, I think that would impede fluid
> flow.
>
> AvMedSafe
> Geff and Julie McCarthy
> 677 NW Melinda Ave
> Portland OR 97210
> 503-241-8468
> 503-799-3809 mobile
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca [mailto:rovernet-bounces at rovernet.ca]
On
> Behalf Of Geoff Kirkpatrick
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 2:02 PM
> To: rovernet at rovernet.ca
> Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] NADA 3500S brake bleeding help needed
>
> Roverites,
>
> I thought I had been very clever when I rebuilt the left front caliper on
my
> 3500S. I unscrewed the brake line between the caliper and the hose, and
> quickly capped off the hose with minimal dripping. I figured it would now
> be a slam-dunk to reinstall the caliper, bleed it, and drive off
> victoriously into the sunset.
>
> It took me a few months gathering parts and finding garage time, but I
> finally finished the rebuild this weekend and reinstalled the caliper.
Now
> the dreaded hard-and-useless pedal feel has reared its ugly head, and
> pressing the pedal results in absolutely no fluid coming out the bleed
> screw. I studied the workshop manual diagram intently, and I can't
figure
> out how to reintroduce fluid into that section of the braking system so
that
> it is no longer blanked off. What's the secret? I beseech you, oh
gurus of
> all things P6B!
>
> In desperation,
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick
>
> "This is the final test of a gentleman: his respect for those who can
be of
> no possible service to him."
> - William Lyon Phelps
>
> Geoff Kirkpatrick, 382 Riverside Avenue, Ben Lomond, CA 95005, USA
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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From adrian.mcdonald at live.com Sat Feb 28 23:42:57 2009
From: adrian.mcdonald at live.com (Adrian McDonald)
Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 20:42:57 -0800
Subject: [Rovernet - INTERNATIONAL] Timing - 3500S
In-Reply-To: <498B693B.7040602@att.net>
References: <20090205201729.OYZW7357.nschwotgx03p.mx.bigpond.com@Boulter>
<498B693B.7040602@att.net>
Message-ID: <COL114-W687071D013AEC6EC40C4C89EA80@phx.gbl>
All
While I started messing around with the carburettors and timing a few weeks ago, I was bemused by an intermittent fuel starvation problem, unfortunately diagnosed some time after the initial meddling commenced. All the time I was fiddling with the timing and mixture, I had a big lump of crud stuck in the fuel supply line to the pump. I discovered this artifact when on (another) test run and the thing slowed to a standstill. A coathanger up the pipe, administered at the side of the road soon restored priper flow and within an hour or so everything was fine again. I used the colortune to adjust the mixture down from very rich, with a bright orange color to just on the borderline blue. But when the engine is slowly opened up the color remains blue. That worked for my 2000TC nicely, but I think it is easier for some reason to see the color change with mixture adjustment on that motor. I still can't really tell when it is too weak, hence I start at the rich end and work down. Good thing is that my fuel problem led me to install new plug leads, disassemble the carbs and clean them, install new fuel filters, and remove a bunch of crappy old vacuum hose so I came out ahead...
Thanks to all for help from the bleachers.
Adrian
Now moved on to bodywork "repairs"
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