[ROVERNET - UK] Re: V8 Engine Questions

[Kent Kinard]

Hi Adrian,
Have you actually done the P6B/ZF HP22 installation?  I 
doubt it will fit.  HP22/24 is a tight fit with some 
bumping required in either an SD1 or P5B and the P6B trans 
tunnel is even tighter.  An easier upgrade is the BW65/66 
as it was fitted to late P6B's.   The easiest OD auto to 
fit at present is via a kit from D&D which is very 
expensive.  It is made to fit MGBV8 conversions.  The 
700R4(small bellhousing) transmission is much longer than 
the BW35 and will require floorpan surgery and a shorted 
driveshaft with appropriate Ujoint at the rear of the 
trans.   Clearance with the D&D kit should be good in the 
firewall and bellousing area.

You can use the SD1/front cover and oil pump (larger 
gears) but this requires using the SD1 distributor drive 
gear and some slight modifications to the distributor 
shaft (or the use of a post '76 Range Rover 
distributor....not sure when RR went electronic but I have 
a dizzy from an '84 with points and the correct drive dog)
You will need to use the P6B oil pump cover to get the oil 
filter pointed in the right direction, I believe.

The P6B oil pump is perfectly adequate for the SD1 enigine 
IF it is in good condition and set to specs.  The SD1 
front cover used a superior oil seal, but there is a one 
piece neoprine seal for the P6B front cover.  It does, 
however, require that the front cover be removed for seal 
replacement.  SD1 front seals can be changed with the 
front cover in place.

Roverly,
Kent K.

On Mon, 14 May 2007 20:31:02 -0700
  "Aidrian Bridgeman-Sutton" <smokeandsteam at gmail.com> 
wrote:
> Yes to both; indeed any Rover V8 up to a 2002 4.6 can be 
>made to work
> very nicely.
> 
> However with the stock SD1 engine you may run into some 
>clearance
> isses at the front when the fan pokes holes in the 
>radiator which
> means that it will only work for a very short while 
>until all the
> water runs out.
> 
> The fix is to use the P6 water pump and I think timing 
>cover - can
> someone help out here?-, something to do with the oil 
>pump and
> disributor drive.
> 
> Some people have had success by removing the fan and 
>adding
> thermostatically controlled electric fans. If you want 
>to keep the SD1
> fuel injection you will need to bring over a lot of the 
>wiring from
> the donor car, but the engine will be perfectly happy 
>with a good
> carburetted set up, which is how many early SD1s were 
>sold in the home
> market. Late European spec injected SD1s had a taller 
>plenum which
> won't fit under the P6 bonnet unless you add a power 
>bulge ( Ram Air
> Rover anyone?)
> 
> If I were doing this much work I would consider a 
>transmission upgrade
> as well. The BW35 was arguably the worst part of the car 
>when new,
> whereas a LT77 manual gearbox from an SD1 fits very 
>nicely and a ZF
> HP22 or HP24 autobox from an eighties Jag can be made to 
>fit with a
> bit of work ( use a Discovery or Rangie  Bell housing ); 
>if you choose
> the latter make sure the ZF hasa cable kick down and not 
>electronic
> control.
> 
> An intermediate step is to use SD1 heads on a P6 block 
>with a 3.9 cam
> which gives you the bigger valves and better valve 
>events
> 
> Aidrian
> 
> On 5/14/07, Albert Boasberg <ABoasberg at webtv.net> wrote:
>> 1. Will a 1980 SD1 engine fit into a 1970 3500S?
>>
>> 2. Will a 1980 SD1 engine work in a 1970 3500S?
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Albert
>>
> 
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