[ROVERNET - UK] Bleeding brakes!
Slatskars
slatskars at comcast.net
Wed May 2 22:18:08 BST 2007
Hi Steven,
I did mention in an earlier e-mail a couple of weeks ago, that when using
the Mity-vac, you had to seal around the threads of the bleeder valve to
prevent air from being drawn in at that point. I used grease, but it would
probably be a good idea to use teflon tape on the fittings. I ran into this
problem when bleeding the brakes on a 74 MGB. On the rear drums, the
Mity-vac worked fine, but would not work at all on the front calipers. Kept
drawing fluid with bubbles.
Slats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Dibdin" <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bleeding brakes!
> Hi Slats,
>
> Intreging solution. I'll do some research, it may make sense to have a go
> at making one. Thanks for the tip.
>
> Regards,
>
> Steven
>
>
>>From: "Slatskars" <slatskars at comcast.net>
>>Reply-To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bleeding brakes!
>>Date: Wed, 2 May 2007 12:49:54 -0700
>>
>>Just thought that I would mention another way of servicing brakes and
>>clutches. That is to use a pressure vessel loaded with brake fluid and
>>force it backwards from the wheel or slave cylinders. I had extreme
>>difficult bleeding a clutch system once (no check valve) and use this
>>method. Worked like a champ. I rented a pressure system from a brake shop
>>for a few hours. Keep meaning to make one.
>>
>>Slats
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger.Matheson"
>><roger.matheson at bigpond.com>
>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 6:34 AM
>>Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Bleeding brakes!
>>
>>
>>>Hi Steven,
>>>
>>>When you refer to a mity vac, does this mean a vacume device sucking
>>>fluid through from one of the callipers? I have found air pressure
>>>effective. I made up a new cap for the resevoir and connected it to 5 lbs
>>>air pressure. Releasing a blead screw allows the compresed air to push
>>>the fluid through. Obviosly you need to watch the level of fluid but you
>>>can move a lot of fluid quickly with this technique. The last time I
>>>bled a recon servo I connected a resevoir with a little fluid in it with
>>>a short pipe above the servo outlet. Pumping the pedal through full
>>>strokes very quickly eliminated air which I could see as bubbles in my
>>>dummy resevoir. From what you say it seems that there is still air in the
>>>second servo.
>>>
>>>Use spare blead screws in the outlets of the master (same thread) A
>>>solid pedal will confirm the master is OK. With air out of the servos by
>>>the above technique, lack of pedal can only mean air in the lines and in
>>>the callipers. Use the compressed air method, push fliud out of the rear
>>>bleader (90% of the contents of the resevoir should be enough to change
>>>the total volume in this circuit. Do the same with the front (furthest
>>>from the servos then the front nearest).
>>>
>>>If you still have no pedal then there must be a fault in the seals/bores
>>>of the master and or the servos, or there is excessive play betwen the
>>>pads and disks. Are there any leaks or bulging in the flexible pipes at
>>>he callipers? Have you been using fresh fluid each time (fluid used for
>>>bleading can contain small air bubbles). I have not found it necessary
>>>to start the engine, or raise the rear. In relation to previous
>>>discussions, the blead screw on the rear is of course lower than the
>>>inlet pipe Stand well and trully corrected.
>>>
>>>Cheers Roger
>>>
>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Dibdin" <sdibdin at hotmail.com>
>>>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 4:14 AM
>>>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Bleeding brakes!
>>>
>>>p://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover_net/
>>
>>
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