[ROVERNET - UK] P6B - Removing rear brakes

[Paul Smith]

You can use a brick under the wheel, or if the handbrake works use that
(preferred method).



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ray Wilkins" <raywilkins at optusnet.com.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B - Removing rear brakes


> Thank you to everyone who responded to my initial post of many weeks ago.
I
> have finally got around to start and decided to go with Paul Smith's
advice
> and disconnect the half shafts so I can get more room. I won't drop the
diff
> as space is very limited.
>
> My question is this; does anyone have good ideas for ways to stop the disc
> from revolving so I can remove the holding bolts. I notice from the Manual
> these bolts are tightened to 85 lb ft!! This will make it even harder to
> remove.
>
> All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ray Wilkins
> 1976 P6B
> Melbourne Australia
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
> [mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of peter king
> Sent: Wednesday, 21 March 2007 3:20 AM
> To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B - Removing rear brakes
>
> Hi all.
>
> Just a little late addition to this post...
>
> Vern is right, it's hard to find a thin walled socket. I ground my 1
> 1/8" "thin wall socket"  down to half its original thickness on my
> bench grinder, then it did the trick nicely. I did the job without
> dropping the diff. Thanks to all the helpful advice given here, I
> think I'll try dropping it next time, for the fun of it!
>
> Peter
>
> ____________
>
> > The manual's method is perfectly sound, except:
> > * you do need a thin walled socket. I presume British tools were made
> > with more economical use of material than us brutish colonials.
> >
> > Yours
> > Vern
>
> peter king + company
> 21 drydock avenue
> floor 7
> boston, ma 02210
> t-617.292.7877
> f-617-292-4739
> www.king-co.com
>
>
>
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