[ROVERNET - UK] Brake & clutch cylinder sleeving [was P6 Clutch
master cylinders]
S Manwell
s_manwell at alum.swarthmore.edu
Fri Mar 9 14:38:00 GMT 2007
As Pete suggested, don't forget the option of getting a clutch master
cylinder (or any other hydraulic cylinder) sleeved in stainless steel or
brass. Typically the process is that you disassemble the cylinder and
ship the bare cylinder casting to a specialty machinist. The casting is
then grit blasted to remove all the rust inside and out, then the
cylinder is bored to a larger diameter, then a sleeve with the same
inside diameter as original is pressed in. Finally, the holes are
drilled through the sleeve wherever there is a fluid port on the
original cylinder.
The last step brings up an issue with rebuilding a clutch master for a
Federal 2000TC. The fluid inlet port into the cylinder from the saddle
tank is offset from the opening on the top of the tank where the hose
from the reservoir connects to this saddle tank. One solution is to
drill a temporary hole in the saddle tank in line with the port into the
cylinder. After drilling the hole into the sleeve, then the temporary
hole can be capped. I believe we did this by screwing a very
small/short screw coated with epoxy into the hole -- this is the brake
fluid is not under pressure in this area.
When the sleeved cylinder is returned to you, then you or your mechanic
assembles it again using a new rubber seals from a rebuild kit. The
sleeving service costs $50 to $60 for most cylinders, more for
complicated ones like servo cylinders or tandem master cylinders.
I can recommend a machinist specializing in brake sleeving in stainless
steel and with experience with Rover cylinders including the Federal
clutch master:
Mark Frappier
82 Mountainview Drive
Agawam, MA 01001
800-528-5235
Also, I believe it was Sierra Specialty in California
(www.brakecylinder.com) that others on this list have recommended for
this service.
I have never had a problem with a cylinder after it was sleeved -- the
sleeve is corrosion proof, unlike the mild steel or aluminum of an
original cylinder.
--Steve
> Early Pt# being L4223-934 or 725 depending on whick book you
> use , and the late Pt.# is L4211-139 or 112 again depending on when
> the book was printed.
> The bad news is that these are the only ones I can find new( there
> are rebuilts out there ) so I can't let them go too cheaply, sorry. I need
> $200.00 apiece for them .
>
>
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