[ROVERNET - UK] Oil pump, Oil Change Warning

Thu Aug 23 10:52:38 BST 2007

Kent
You forgot the squawking front struts and saggy headlining, or are they 
just an Oz thing?

;-)

Cheers
Dave
South Oz

Kent Kinard wrote:
> Hi Robert,
> I personally like the SD1...the styling, the handling, and the fact that 
> it has 1/3 fewer parts than my P6B's.  I have had twelve since 1987 and 
> still buy them up when the price is reasonable.  The problems are 
> predictable and the solutions well known.  In spite of the fact that it 
> has a dozen relays in the electrical system, I find it easy enough to 
> trouble shoot.
> Things to do to an SD1:
> -learn how to trouble shoot the EFI-Get Franc to massage your ECU and 
> fit a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
> -find the reset button for the power windows and learn how to 
> disassemble and clean the switches
> -buy every headlamp flasher/dimmer switch you can find
> -squirt graphite in the steering column lock regularly-when it won't 
> unlock, drill out the bolts and throw it away-fit a plain key switch in 
> the hole where the shift quadrant display is found-no sane person is 
> going to steal the car anyway
> -Replace the head bolts with studs (10 per side only)-fit new head gaskets
> -discard the lock and lock plate on the hatch-learn how to open the 
> hatch with your finger
> -Replace the cam with a 3.9 L cam and the timing chain with a true 
> roller-add new lifters
> -If it's a 5spd, flush the trans and use a synthetic synchromesh oil-if 
> it has over 60,000 miles and still shifts smooth, replace the bearings 
> now and go another 60,000
> -if its an automatic, fit a GM 700-R4
> -Ditch the distributor, ballast resistor and coil-anything is 
> better-GM(points or HEI), Mallory, Accel, MSD or even later Range Rover 
> with the control box on the wing.
> -use a fuel pump from a six cylinder Ford truck
> -Wait for the rack to leak-when you figure out which of the four 
> possible racks it has,rebuild it-then rebuild it again.  Fit new hoses.
> -Replace the rear springs and shocks with 2300 units when the Nivomats 
> give out
> -Get the seats recovered
> -paint it (If it is Tumeric, paint it a different color)
> -get some Euro type headlamps and bumpers
> -Now you have spent $12,000 on a car that's worth $2500 and is now only 
> 2/3 Rover
> -keep it forever:-)
> -Get used to correcting people gently "No, Rover made Range Rovers, not 
> the other way around."
> 
> Roverebuildably,
> Kent K.
> 
> On Wed, 22 Aug 2007 03:39:26 -1200
>  "Robert Heimerl" <robertime at cavtel.net> wrote:
>> [Hi, I've been just reading along for a couple of months,
>> but here goes...]
>>
>> Glen, it's not that you're lazy -- you were just taking an
>> easier route to the same destination (re-priming the oil
>> pump)!  Removing the oil pump cover on an SD1 is hardly a
>> picnic.  The "special multi-spline" bolts holding it in
>> place are very difficult to remove.  You must have 12-point
>> 5/16" sockets and, for one even less accessible bolt, a
>> miniature 5/16" box wrench.  Moreover, three different
>> length bolts (screws?) are used.  Because it's not
>> necessarily obvious which one goes in which location, these
>> must be kept in specific order.
>>
>> Now why would I be taking apart my car's oil pump?  I
>> suggest that all Rover V8 (at least SD1 version) owners read
>> the following very carefully (from a supplement to the
>> Haynes shop manual -- "Engine oil and filter - renewal"):
>>
>> "While the oil is draining, do not attempt to remove the oil
>> filter, as this will cause the oil pump to drain and could
>> cause lack of lubrication on restarting."
>>
>> Instead, the manual directs us to first refill the engine
>> with oil.
>>
>> "Now the filter can be removed and discarded."
>>
>> Another source, Practical Classics' "Rover SD1 Suvival
>> Guide," from October 1996, has the following statement in
>> its first paragraph:
>>
>> "Oil changes require a special procedure: if the oil pump
>> drains it takes a long time to prime, and MAY NEVER DO SO
>> COMPLETELY (emphasis added).  Change the oil filter first: Crawl under 
>> the car with a new filter three-quarters full of
>> new oil, unscrew the old filter and then hand-tighten the
>> new one straight on.  Then drain and refill the sump with
>> fresh oil."
>>
>> Brilliant, perfectly brilliant, I say!  What other sort of
>> consumer-unfriendly practices could they come up with? Only
>> Rover (or it's remnants) know for sure!  [The fact that
>> these two sources contradict one another regarding the order
>> of changing the oil and  filter should reassure the rest of
>> us, too!]
>>
>> So how long until my oil pump regains prime?  Hopefully not
>> the above-referenced "never."  I've not yet reassembled it,
>> but will use the "packing with vaseline" method recommended
>> by Glen and a variety of reliable sources. Interestingly
>> enough, I've seen a special tool up for auction on eBay.uk,
>> specifically designed for repriming this pump (via the
>> distributor method).
>>
>> How many quick-change oil places would follow the proper
>> procedures?  How many do-it-yourselfers would know to avoid
>> this problem?  On my previous SD1, I never had this happen
>> (and, yes, there are other possible reasons that my current
>> one may have low oil pressure -- but this developed under
>> the specific circumstances described above).  And does
>> anyone out there recommend using single weight oil, rather
>> than the 20w-50 Castrol GT that I normally use?
>>
>> Meanwhile, the rather noisy fuel pump on my car (1980 SD1
>> 3.5 V8) decided to pack it in, too.  I've had an interesting
>> search for this item, cross-referencing Bosch part numbers,
>> etc., getting quotes from about $100 to $400 (I just got one
>> for $150).  If anyone's interested, I can share more
>> detailed information on this subject.  Due to the tiny
>> vehicle population over here few places actually have a
>> listing for 1980-81 Rover 3500 components, but eBay is
>> helpful nowadays. [Yes, these pumps are used on other
>> vehicles. Can you say "Jaguar" with that appropriately
>> snooty British style of pronunciation?]
>>
>> By the way, who is actually being given access to the parts
>> cars offered by the gentleman in British Columbia?  I guess
>> we should call him directly, right?
>>
>> Since I owned one of these cars previously, some out there
>> may be saying "it serves him right, he should know better." Still, I 
>> find them interesting.  Anyone else out there who
>> likes the SD1's?  I noted a disparaging remark recently,
>> and, yes, know the car's sad story very well.  I also took
>> in the YouTube BBC History of Rover -- it's quite good,
>> worthwhile seeing, in spite of the obnoxious "car guy"
>> mouthing off in front of the last (BMW-developed) Rover 75. A friend 
>> in London had one on a lease which ended last year,
>> really liked it.  He'd have to turn to the Chinese to get a
>> replacement, it appears!
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> (Rover) Robert
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> denlet wrote:
>>>
>>> GLEN:
>>> you can also put an 1/4 liter of "VASELINE" (petroleum
>>> jelly buy in drugstore ) in the oil pump.Vaseline is
>>> completely mixed with oil.It's very good to have a good
>>> pressure for the first start. If you take a drill after
>>> about 2 mn, you must  have a pressure , the drill turn
>>> more slowly, the pressure become higher. The best is to
>>> fill the hydraulic tappets.(leave in a box during 24 H in
>>> special oil ).
>>>
>>>
>>>         thank you           denis
>>>
>>>
>>> Good advice, Denis. Some of us are too lazy to take the
>>> oil pump apart but have lots of time to remove the
>>> distributor, build a special tool to fit the drill, and
>>> reinstall the distributor!   ;-)
>>>
>>> Glen
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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> 
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