[ROVERNET - UK] Engine head question?

[David Sheuring]

Good Evening Kent,
Thanks for the best news...and I found and printed the
email on the heads. The inside of the motor is in
beautiful shape. No gumming at all. The car has only
56,000 miles and looks it. I was amazed to find some
cross hatch still in the cylinder bores. I have
already checked to block surface with a true flat
steel and find no high/low spots. How ever, post head
gaskets had been put on wrong side up. I engine man
noticed that right away, so I am cleaning motor and am
also putting on a new oil pump and a p/u unit. Am
replacing the rear seal as well so its very good.
Thanks so mch for your help...its funny, I owned a P5B
back in 84 that I brought back to America and it had
the same V8. I do remember the mechanics over in
Scotland telling me how different motor it was and
that you had to be careful with it cause of it being
aluminum.
Well, I must tell you that the Corsica Blue 70TC is up
and running great, again, thats to Ruth from ABC.
Oh...how I have missed driving a 4 speed Rover 2000.
Now THATS a great Christmas gift to me.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your
family.

Cheers
From
Lillington, NC
David

PS: Thanks for the Rover heads...I will pay for the
freight at least.....and maybe send you a good bootle
of single malt Scotch
--- Kent Kinard <kkinard at wcc.net> wrote:

> Hi David,
> If you are going to break a head bolt, that's the
> one to 
> break.  No need to do any removal or repair.  Please
> 
> reread my post on the subject of head attachment. 
> You 
> DON'T need the outer row at all.  Do NOT torque the
> other 
> bolts tighter...66 lb ft is enough even with steel
> gaskets 
> and only 10 bolts to a side.  It is more important
> that 
> the bolts be torqued in proper sequence and in
> stages as I 
> so carefully outlined.   To torque the  bolts tigher
> only 
> risks distorting the block face.  Check the block
> face for 
> flatness.  It the block face is distorted, it should
> be 
> removed and planed.
> 
>   Andrew didn't have room in his Echo to take the
> heads 
> back with him so they will be shipped Tuesday. 
> Remember 
> the SD1 heads use plugs of different reach from the
> P6B 
> heads.  Do not try to use P6B valves, valve springs
> or 
> valve spring retainers on the SD1 heads.  These
> parts do 
> not interchange, but the assembled heads I am
> sending you 
> will interchange with the P6B heads as complete 
> assemblies.  No need to change pushrods or anything
> else.
> 
> How gummed up was the inside of the engine?
> 
> Hope you don't have to pull it out.
> 
> Roverly,
> Kent K.
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 14:03:06 -0800 (PST)
>   David Sheuring <rovertcv8 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Hi everyone.....
> > I hope everyone has had a wonderful Christmas
> > 
> > My question is this.....I have found out now that
> > someone HAS been into this motor because the left
> bank
> > cylinder head had a bolts that someone had cross
> > threaded and now....it sheared off.
> > Ket had mentioned where he only used the 10
> primary
> > head bolts to tighten the head back on and the
> bolt
> > that sheared is one of the secondary ones...the
> one
> > closetest to the outside of the block...there are
> 4 of
> > those.
> > Now, without having to remove the engine out and
> have
> > a shop fix it, can I just use the 10 bolts and
> torque
> > them tighter.
> > Please let me know as I would REALLY like to put
> this
> > engine back together....or am I ...umm...screwed
> > Please get back with me and let me know
> > Cheers
> > David
> > 
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