[ROVERNET - UK] Alan's method
Paul Smith
Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au
Wed Oct 12 00:13:32 BST 2005
Remove De Dion tube by removing the 6 bolts and 2 nuts at ech end - no need
to take the rear hubs off.
You will need to prise the rear wheels apart to get it out (off the studs
the nuts came off) which I did by putting a foot on one wheel and a hand on
the other, leaving one hand free to move the De Dion. It helps to have two
people...
Note that the holes are unevenly distributed, os it only goes back in one
place at each end - marking before removal helps.
PVS
-----Original Message-----
From: Dirk Burrowes [mailto:dirk at vy-tek.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 12 October 2005 9:53 am
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Alan's method
Hi all,
I read in a post that Jim (Newbie) posted that
Alan had a trick for replacing the boot on the Dedion tube. I have a torn
one and was planning on replacing it fairly soon. So if someone could repost
Alan's method I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Dirk
-----Original Message-----
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[ROVERNET-UK]
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Racing Rovers (Larry)
2. Re: Racing Rovers (Eric Russell)
3. 2000 TC rattle (fjcumberland at sc.rr.com)
4. Re: 2000 TC rattle (Eric Russell)
5. Re: 2000 TC rattle (fjcumberland at sc.rr.com)
6. Re: 2000 TC rattle (iudkuy wcygiohs)
7. RE: 2000 TC rattle (Paul Smith)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 06:08:52 -0600
From: "Larry" <lewill at ctcweb.net>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Racing Rovers
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID: <003801c5ce5c$ba639a50$5448e842 at hewlett2n8fn74>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Peter, There is a racing rover in the Seattle area. I think that he races in
the antique races in Seattle and Portland. His name is Tom Hufnagl. He is a
member of the Rover Car Club of Canada. Regards, Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Huttemeier" <peterhut at melbpc.org.au>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Racing Rovers
On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 00:05:50 +1000, you wrote:
>Apart from the odd SD1 and the P6 special that raced here in Australia,
>does anyone know of any other racing rovers?
>Where there any 20s or 30s specials which raced at major meetings?
>The question was asked of me at a Vintage Sports Car Club meeting here
Alan,
There was of course the Le Mans turbine racing car.
As for the historical ones I am not sure, why not take a look in the
RCCA Club library if there was I am sure we have something on it.
You may also be interested one of our members has started to race his
SEII in historical closed club events here, Sandown, Rob Roy Hill
Climb, Philip Island etc. See some pics from recent Phillip Island
here:
<http://www.sdpics.com/cgi-bin/store/imageFolio.cgi?direct=8000~Motor_Sport/
9000~Cars/05~Car_Club_Track_Days/36~18_September_2005_Marque_Sports_Assoc/2~
Gp_6_-_Red>
Cheers,
Peter H
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 07:19:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Racing Rovers
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20051011141938.92749.qmail at web34308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Larry,
A slight amendment..... Tom Hufnagl is not a member of
the RCCC but we are glad YOU are.
Eric
--- Larry <lewill at ctcweb.net> wrote:
> Peter, There is a racing rover in the Seattle area.
> I think that he races in
> the antique races in Seattle and Portland. His name
> is Tom Hufnagl. He is a
> member of the Rover Car Club of Canada. Regards,
> Larry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Huttemeier" <peterhut at melbpc.org.au>
> To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 11:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Racing Rovers
>
>
> On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 00:05:50 +1000, you wrote:
>
> >Apart from the odd SD1 and the P6 special that
> raced here in Australia,
> >does anyone know of any other racing rovers?
> >Where there any 20s or 30s specials which raced at
> major meetings?
> >The question was asked of me at a Vintage Sports
> Car Club meeting here
>
> Alan,
>
> There was of course the Le Mans turbine racing car.
>
> As for the historical ones I am not sure, why not
> take a look in the
> RCCA Club library if there was I am sure we have
> something on it.
>
> You may also be interested one of our members has
> started to race his
> SEII in historical closed club events here, Sandown,
> Rob Roy Hill
> Climb, Philip Island etc. See some pics from recent
> Phillip Island
> here:
>
>
<http://www.sdpics.com/cgi-bin/store/imageFolio.cgi?direct=8000~Motor_Sport/
9000~Cars/05~Car_Club_Track_Days/36~18_September_2005_Marque_Sports_Assoc/2~
Gp_6_-_Red>
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Peter H
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the
> bottom and follow
> instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
>
>
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------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 11:22:27 -0400
From: fjcumberland at sc.rr.com
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <18a0f77189f5fa.189f5fa18a0f77 at southeast.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi all,
Sort of a "newbie" question here. My '71 2000 TC, which has about 6K
miles on the engine (my best guess) has developed a metallic rattling
noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the timing chain (as much as
one can tell from where engine noises come . . . .). The rattle is most
noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it goes away at speed or
under load. The car needs a tune-up - it has a rough idle and seems to
have a miss when I drive with foot off the accelerator. It's also
running rich. Is it worth my checking at least the upper tensioner? Is
it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I replace it?
Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the deDion boot using Alan's
method - will report back on results. It sounds a lot easier than
yanking the entire rear end . . .
Thanks in advance for any help!
Cheers,
Jim
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 08:54:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20051011155416.66944.qmail at web34313.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Jim,
The noise you describe sounds like the timing chain. I
don't know what version of upper timing chain
tensioner you have but the original version was
adjustable with an Allen key. The tensioner was
installed with the pad close to the body. When the
tensioner was correctly in position, one inserted the
Allen key and turned it to release the pad to push
toward the chain when needed. One cause of rattle was
that the installer forgot to turn the Allen key
adjustment so the pad was retained against the body of
the tensioner. If that is your case, you could expect
an improvement by turning the Allen key adjustment.
The later tensioners are often those used on other
vehicles (MGB I think) and had no adjustment. A
person tied the pad with some thread and cut the
thread after everything was in place.
Access to the upper tensioner is through the large
aluminum plug opposite the tensioner. However, with
time and heat, the rubber sealing ring becomes hard.
When a person tries to pry out the aluminum plug, the
lips of the plug usually get snapped off. On
occasion, I have used a propane torch to destroy the
rubber ring providing you can get a new replacement to
refit the plug, later.
The worst case scenario is the need to remove the head
to replace the upper chain with a new one. Ruth at
All British Cars can help you source a new chain. I
don't know if she has OEM tensioners or not.
Eric
--- fjcumberland at sc.rr.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Sort of a "newbie" question here. My '71 2000 TC,
> which has about 6K
> miles on the engine (my best guess) has developed a
> metallic rattling
> noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the
> timing chain (as much as
> one can tell from where engine noises come . . . .).
> The rattle is most
> noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it goes
> away at speed or
> under load. The car needs a tune-up - it has a
> rough idle and seems to
> have a miss when I drive with foot off the
> accelerator. It's also
> running rich. Is it worth my checking at least the
> upper tensioner? Is
> it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I
> replace it?
>
>
> Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the deDion
> boot using Alan's
> method - will report back on results. It sounds a
> lot easier than
> yanking the entire rear end . . .
>
> Thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the
> bottom and follow instructions:
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
>
Webmaster & Magazine Editor:
The Rover Car Club of Canada - www.roverclub.ca
__________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 16:18:42 -0400
From: fjcumberland at sc.rr.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <1808e71180cb54.180cb541808e71 at southeast.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Eric,
Thanks! |I think my engine is from a S1 car, but rebuilt with a higher
compression ratio (need to look that up . . . .). I'll see whether the
tensioner is adjustable. Thanks also for the tip about the plug lips
breaking - it is good that I won't be surprised if it happens. I think
I have a spare NOS plug it breaks. I hope I don't have to pull the head
- at the rate my car projects get done it will be around the time of our
next presidential election . . .
Cheers,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 11:54 am
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
> Jim,
> The noise you describe sounds like the timing chain. I
> don't know what version of upper timing chain
> tensioner you have but the original version was
> adjustable with an Allen key. The tensioner was
> installed with the pad close to the body. When the
> tensioner was correctly in position, one inserted the
> Allen key and turned it to release the pad to push
> toward the chain when needed. One cause of rattle was
> that the installer forgot to turn the Allen key
> adjustment so the pad was retained against the body of
> the tensioner. If that is your case, you could expect
> an improvement by turning the Allen key adjustment.
>
> The later tensioners are often those used on other
> vehicles (MGB I think) and had no adjustment. A
> person tied the pad with some thread and cut the
> thread after everything was in place.
>
> Access to the upper tensioner is through the large
> aluminum plug opposite the tensioner. However, with
> time and heat, the rubber sealing ring becomes hard.
> When a person tries to pry out the aluminum plug, the
> lips of the plug usually get snapped off. On
> occasion, I have used a propane torch to destroy the
> rubber ring providing you can get a new replacement to
> refit the plug, later.
>
> The worst case scenario is the need to remove the head
> to replace the upper chain with a new one. Ruth at
> All British Cars can help you source a new chain. I
> don't know if she has OEM tensioners or not.
>
> Eric
> --- fjcumberland at sc.rr.com wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Sort of a "newbie" question here. My '71 2000 TC,
> > which has about 6K
> > miles on the engine (my best guess) has developed a
> > metallic rattling
> > noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the
> > timing chain (as much as
> > one can tell from where engine noises come . . . .).
> > The rattle is most
> > noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it goes
> > away at speed or
> > under load. The car needs a tune-up - it has a
> > rough idle and seems to
> > have a miss when I drive with foot off the
> > accelerator. It's also
> > running rich. Is it worth my checking at least the
> > upper tensioner? Is
> > it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I
> > replace it?
> >
> >
> > Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the deDion
> > boot using Alan's
> > method - will report back on results. It sounds a
> > lot easier than
> > yanking the entire rear end . . .
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > rovernet mailing list
> > rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the
> > bottom and follow instructions:
> > http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> >
>
>
> Webmaster & Magazine Editor:
> The Rover Car Club of Canada - www.roverclub.ca
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
>
> _______________________________________________
> rovernet mailing list
> rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and
> follow instructions:
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 14:27:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: iudkuy wcygiohs <iudkuy at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Message-ID: <20051011212730.75051.qmail at web60120.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
JIm
I had what I was convinced was a metallic intermittent
rattle from the front of my 105 engine. It went away
when engine revs increased above idle so I thought
"timing chain tensioner" but it turned out to be the
fan belt! Worth a look.
Peter B
--- fjcumberland at sc.rr.com wrote:
> Hi Eric,
>
> Thanks! |I think my engine is from a S1 car, but
> rebuilt with a higher
> compression ratio (need to look that up . . . .).
> I'll see whether the
> tensioner is adjustable. Thanks also for the tip
> about the plug lips
> breaking - it is good that I won't be surprised if
> it happens. I think
> I have a spare NOS plug it breaks. I hope I don't
> have to pull the head
> - at the rate my car projects get done it will be
> around the time of our
> next presidential election . . .
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eric Russell <p6rovers at yahoo.com>
> Date: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 11:54 am
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
>
> > Jim,
> > The noise you describe sounds like the timing
> chain. I
> > don't know what version of upper timing chain
> > tensioner you have but the original version was
> > adjustable with an Allen key. The tensioner was
> > installed with the pad close to the body. When
> the
> > tensioner was correctly in position, one inserted
> the
> > Allen key and turned it to release the pad to push
> > toward the chain when needed. One cause of rattle
> was
> > that the installer forgot to turn the Allen key
> > adjustment so the pad was retained against the
> body of
> > the tensioner. If that is your case, you could
> expect
> > an improvement by turning the Allen key
> adjustment.
> >
> > The later tensioners are often those used on other
> > vehicles (MGB I think) and had no adjustment. A
> > person tied the pad with some thread and cut the
> > thread after everything was in place.
> >
> > Access to the upper tensioner is through the large
> > aluminum plug opposite the tensioner. However,
> with
> > time and heat, the rubber sealing ring becomes
> hard.
> > When a person tries to pry out the aluminum plug,
> the
> > lips of the plug usually get snapped off. On
> > occasion, I have used a propane torch to destroy
> the
> > rubber ring providing you can get a new
> replacement to
> > refit the plug, later.
> >
> > The worst case scenario is the need to remove the
> head
> > to replace the upper chain with a new one. Ruth
> at
> > All British Cars can help you source a new chain.
> I
> > don't know if she has OEM tensioners or not.
> >
> > Eric
> > --- fjcumberland at sc.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Sort of a "newbie" question here. My '71 2000
> TC,
> > > which has about 6K
> > > miles on the engine (my best guess) has
> developed a
> > > metallic rattling
> > > noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the
> > > timing chain (as much as
> > > one can tell from where engine noises come . . .
> .).
> > > The rattle is most
> > > noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it
> goes
> > > away at speed or
> > > under load. The car needs a tune-up - it has a
> > > rough idle and seems to
> > > have a miss when I drive with foot off the
> > > accelerator. It's also
> > > running rich. Is it worth my checking at least
> the
> > > upper tensioner? Is
> > > it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I
> > > replace it?
> > >
> > >
> > > Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the
> deDion
> > > boot using Alan's
> > > method - will report back on results. It sounds
> a
> > > lot easier than
> > > yanking the entire rear end . . .
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for any help!
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > rovernet mailing list
> > > rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
> > > To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near
> the
> > > bottom and follow instructions:
> > >
> http://mailman.nipltd.com/mailman/listinfo/rovernet
> > >
> >
> >
> > Webmaster & Magazine Editor:
> > The Rover Car Club of Canada - www.roverclub.ca
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> > Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> > http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
> >
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> bottom and
> > follow instructions:
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>
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 08:39:01 +1100
From: Paul Smith <Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au>
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
To: "'rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com'" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Message-ID:
<9409B494C2CED611BADF00508B948EF80DA65152 at excha01.auroraenergy.com.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
You access the allen bolt via the inspection plate next to the distributor -
the front Al plug is for seeing the pad & chain. If you prise gently,
working it out evenly, you shouldn't break the lips.
The other possibility is low oil pressure, since the tensioner is oil
driven, the allen bolt is only for retracting it. You can't "tighten" it as
such. Low oil pressure is usually due to worn bottom end, the oil pump is
pretty robust on 2000s.
It sounds like you have worn butterfly shafts leading to lean idle (which is
rough) but rich elsewhere.
If you can rebuild carbs with new shaft bushes that is the best solution,
and put a grease nipple in! I really wish SU had in the first place.
Otherwise reprofile the needles.
PVS
-----Original Message-----
From: fjcumberland at sc.rr.com [mailto:fjcumberland at sc.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, 12 October 2005 2:22 am
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] 2000 TC rattle
Hi all,
Sort of a "newbie" question here. My '71 2000 TC, which has about 6K
miles on the engine (my best guess) has developed a metallic rattling
noise that appears to be in the vicinity of the timing chain (as much as
one can tell from where engine noises come . . . .). The rattle is most
noticable at idle, but as far as I can tell it goes away at speed or
under load. The car needs a tune-up - it has a rough idle and seems to
have a miss when I drive with foot off the accelerator. It's also
running rich. Is it worth my checking at least the upper tensioner? Is
it possible to tighten the tensioner, or must I replace it?
Also - am hoping one day soon to replace the deDion boot using Alan's
method - will report back on results. It sounds a lot easier than
yanking the entire rear end . . .
Thanks in advance for any help!
Cheers,
Jim
_______________________________________________
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rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
To unsubscribe, go to this web page, look near the bottom and follow
instructions:
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------------------------------
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