[ROVERNET - UK] P5 MK 2 question

S Manwell smanwell at sprintmail.com
Sun Nov 27 00:21:44 GMT 2005


Hi Dirk,

The wing beads at the top of the P5 rear wings (and the similar shorter 
beads below the rear lights) are aluminum alloy and should be painted.  
The alloy may have looked similar to chrome where it was scraped bright.

There is a series of bolts along the top of the rear fenders that pull 
the seam together:  the seam consists of a sandwich of a) fender flange, 
b) flange of the T-shaped bead material, and c) the body surface that 
the fender bolts too.  This series of bolts must be at least loosened to 
allow the bead to be lifted up and out.  I think there are two or three 
bolts to the front that thread into captured nuts in the body and three 
or four that bolt into captured nuts in the fender from inside the 
trunk.  The front ones are hard to get to and were very reluctant to 
come out on my 3 litre, so I replaced all of them with stainless 
fine-thread bolts.

The flange of the bead material is prone to corrosion where it contacts 
the steel on either side.  I think it is worthwhile to take the flange 
out and make sure any corrosion is cleaned off before final assembly.  
It would be good to isolate the aluminum bead from the steel panels on 
either side, maybe with strips of electrical tape.  The flange along the 
top of the fender is prone to rust too as is the front vertical edge 
where the skin is folded over the front frame of the fender -- a good 
target for a dose of something gooey to keep the rust away.

I too wonder what the best order of painting and assembly is:  paint the 
bead and fenders first, then assemble; or prepaint the bead flange, then 
asemble then paint over the whole business.  If the latter, should a 
bead of flexible seam sealer be run on either side of the alloy bead? 

On my car we put on new rear fenders and they required quite a bit of 
persuasion and some modification to make them fit -- hopefully your 
fenders have had four decades to get to know the rest of the car.

--Steve

P.S. Dad and I just visited my P5 yesterday to feed the mice more poison 
and treat them to some fabric softener dryer sheets -- these sheets are 
supposed to deter mice.  Maybe an urban legend?  Hopefully they'll leave 
the Rover alone now.



Dirk wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>I am working on my P5 MK2 and dealing with a repaint done awhile ago. I am
>wondering about the back wing beads
>on top of the fender. Are they suppose to be painted OR are they suppose to
>be chrome.
>I scraped some of the paint off and it looked like they may have been
>chromed at one time.
>
>I am trying to decide if I should remove the wings for repaint or not and if
>these were chromed then that clinch's it for me.
>By the way do I need to remove the wing to remove the bead????
>
>Thanks
>For the reply
>Dirk
>-----Original Message-----
>From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
>[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com]On Behalf Of
>rovernet-request at lyris.ccdata.com
>Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 7:00 AM
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Subject: rovernet Digest, Vol 36, Issue 29
>
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>[ROVERNET-UK]
>
>Today's Topics:
>
>   1.  Underbody protection (Anders Hedelund Larsen)
>   2.  Underbody protection (Anders Hedelund Larsen)
>   3. Re:  Underbody protection (sspmilr at netzero.net)
>   4. Re:  Underbody protection (Anders Hedelund Larsen)
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 22:18:56 +0100
>From: Anders Hedelund Larsen <anders at xoz.dk>
>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Underbody protection
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Message-ID: <43877FC0.6080909 at xoz.dk>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Some thoughts re. recent discussions, which brand name to use and how to
>do it.
>
>There are a number of such products, based on oil or wax. It is a big
>thing on the Danish market, so I can think of/choose between
>
>Dinitrol (alias Tuff-Kote Dinol, Pyrmo, and Proflex)
>http://www.dinitrol.com/
>Waxoyl http://www.waxoyl.com/
>Mercasol http://www.geveko-industri.com/aspx_eng/i_1_hem.aspx
>Tectyl http://tectyl.valvolineeurope.com/index.asp
>Teroson http://www.teroson.de
>Carlofon http://ww.carlofon.de
>and local brands
>Pava http://www.pava.dk/
>Tektrol http://www.tektrol.dk/
>
>
>
>It will be hard to find a place in the country where the nearest
>specialist center is more than 5 miles away.
>
>All is easily available in aerosol (amateur/touch up), threaded bottles,
>pots or drums.
>
>I would normally go for the bottles, as they screw directly on an air gun.
>
>In English it is normally called underbody seal/protection. In fact the
>germans use a much more precise word for this: hohlraumshutz = Cavity
>Protection.
>
>That is what it is all about: A car rusts from the cavities and the
>welding seams. Getting a penetrating oil/wax in to close and protect
>these places is the vital job.
>
>Visible seams can be protected with a brush or with a brush equipped oil
>can.
>
>As to effect of each product and compatibility between them, these are
>my general obeservations:
>- The international market leaders tend to claim their product can be
>applied over any other thing, but subsequent application of anything
>else is outside limits of warranty etc.
>- Smaller brands tend to be more liberal claiming more general
>application terms "oil/wax based penetrating product", "oil/wax based
>wear protection".
>
>Seems to be like petrol/gasoline: Some customers prefer Shell, some
>prefer Exxon, yet others simply go by the price and octane rating.
>
>I have placed this text with more to come on http://xoz.dk/ahl/auto/cavity
>
>Translation is from Danish as to my best effort. Any remarks or
>linguistic improvements, particularly as to technical terms will be most
>appreciated.
>
>...Anders H L
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 22:25:07 +0100
>From: Anders Hedelund Larsen <anders at xoz.dk>
>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] Underbody protection
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Message-ID: <43878133.5000509 at xoz.dk>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Oops wrong link in the very bottom of previous document. Here is the
>correct one:
>
>http://xoz.dk/ahl/auto/protect
>
>...Anders H L
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2005 08:20:41 GMT
>From: "sspmilr at netzero.net" <sspmilr at netzero.net>
>Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Underbody protection
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Message-ID: <20051126.002052.10937.40153 at webmail49.lax.untd.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>Hi Anders:
>
>Since my Grandmother was Danish, I should completely understand your
>instructions, but theres just one question.  What are "interior mudguards"?
>Please don't take after me like my Grandmother did with
>her "dootkee"!
>
>Appreciate your sharing your knowledge with the Rover people.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Peter Millers
>Arlington, Wa.
>USA
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 4
>Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2005 10:17:08 +0100
>From: Anders Hedelund Larsen <anders at xoz.dk>
>Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Underbody protection
>To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>Message-ID: <43882814.10207 at xoz.dk>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>"Interior mudguards": As I did not know the correct term, I took the one
>used by the primary vendor, Lokari of Finland
>http://www.lokari.fi/?s=t_sisalokasuojat&l=eng
>
>Such are inner, underside coverings for the mudguards/wings/wheelarches.
>They used to be made in aluminium, covering only the wear surfaces. For
>newer cars they are made in plastic giving a full covering.
>
>There are pictures on http://www.lokari.de/en/innenkotfluegel.php
>and better ones on http://www.inderskaerme.dk/
>
>The last one is in Danish, but shows original felt ones being replaced
>with much more protecting plastic ones. Each felt one absorbs some 2
>kg/4 pounds of water in rainy weather.
>
>Let that be salt water during a couple of Danish or Scottish winter
>months and you have a prime rust area.
>
>..ahl
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
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