[ROVERNET - UK]

Sat Feb 26 17:55:30 GMT 2005

I usually have original cylinders rebuilt and stainless steel sleeved; they
come with a good guarantee,, and if you ever have a problem years down the
road, the rebuilder installs new seals and retests them, reasonably.The only
problem I ever had, was due to a  a cheap doctor's car; He  insisted on
having his calipers rebuilt one at a time, when they leaked. Each time,
contamination  was dislodged, got into a previously rebuilt caliper, it
leaked, I sent it backto the rebuilder, they charged only for new seals, and
noted that leakage was caused by contamination.I charged the Doctor by the
hour, but a better solution is to do the complete brake system at one
time.American Brake fluid may also cause this rubber failure, so I assume
you are using Castrol?-Wrongly save a dollar, and it will cost you a
thousand.I have done one  P4, but hav forgotten the layout of the brake
system. One solution to your problem might be to add a separate servo, like
on a 2000. LandRover enthusiasts sometimes add one in theclutch system.
Kits can be expensive , to rebuild original ones;I use a new one made in
Australia(Sorry to mention Jaguar) for a MKII Jag; When I upgrade XK120's to
Front disc brakes. I retain the original master cylinder. The servo can go
anyplace, usually I put it in the Right Front Fender. (Unless we added
airconditioning; then the servo goes in the left, the condensor and fan go
in the right . This should translate easily to Rover, and in fact perhaps
someone from Down under, where the servos are made. offers a kit?. James
Dean, Ft. Lauderdale.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Katherine Cuba" <katemike at charter.net>
To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK]


> James:
>
> Thank you for your frequent postings to Rovernet.  I have learned a lot
just
> from reading your messages.  I have a couple of questions about my 1958
> Rover P4 105S that you might be able to help me with.
>
> When I got it, the servo/brake booster had been removed by one of the
> preivious owners.  I've done a lot of work with TR6's and MGB's and had
been
> wondering if it was possible to plumb in a servo or master from one of
those
> or something similar.  Your note below on the SD1 made me curious to know
if
> something can be done for the P4 without the expense and shipping of
> sourcing an original from the UK.  Since mine is the only one I know of
> within a 1000 miles of St. Louis, I'm not too worried about officionados
> crying that it is not historically accurate.
>
> Also, have you developed an air conditioning system that could be fitted
to
> the P4?  that would be the height of luxury on a hot Missouri afternoon.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Michael Mason
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Dean" <jaguru at bellsouth.net>
> To: <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>; <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 12:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
>
>
> > Lance-Several common sense things to check, before adding extra fans,
etc.
> > Do you have a thermostat, and is it correct? American thermostats often
> > fit
> > British cars, but may not be exactly correct-little things like a weep
> > hole,
> > etc-Someone else may have more knowledge than I on exact detailsAlso, in
> > that era, it was common to use a 190degree for fast heater warmup in
> > Northern winters, and 165 in hot summers, or Florida where I am.What is
in
> > the car? If it has no thermostat, coolant will move too fast, and not be
> > fully cooled.The other item no one ever suspects, until they add fans,
oil
> > coolers, etc; is the fan clutch. Spin it when the engine is cold, and
> > again
> > when the engine is hot. If there is no resistance either time, replace
the
> > fan clutch . I may have some, contact me
> >        . AlsoRegarding 3500S; I am presently making up a new set of AC
> > hoses, sourcing a rotary compressor, and the adapter bracket between new
> > compressor and the original york bracket, as well as r-134 seals, . a
new
> > drier,etc. If anyone wants to upgrade their AC system,or needs parts
> > contact
> > me; rather than re-inventing the wheel yourself. I also just put
together
> > a
> > boot evaporator system., and have a correct in dash evaporator for P5.
> >           For SD1 owners-A tip:Master cylinders and boosters have been
> > unavailable, or worth more than the car. On my SD-1, I used a TR7 master
> > cylinder. I can supply these rebuilt, which is cheaper than new.The
brake
> > lines go in the other side, but you can move them around, to reach., and
> > fittings are the sameFor a booster, I used a Triumph TR6., but the studs
> > to
> > mount the master cylinder are off by90 degrees. I have a rebuilder who
> > rebuilds them for me, and rotates the housing 90 degrees, so it all
bolts
> > together nicely. Again, contact me if you need one.
> >             I have been putting some of my Rare Rover parts on my ebay
> > store, with photos, though most seem to go to Europe, as Americans seem
to
> > generally ignore or miss the opportunity.Please browse around the ebay
> > store, as there are some rare things. The P5 AC evaporator is there with
a
> > photos, as well as a photo of a rare Factory option P5B unit Go to ebay
> > home
> > page, log onto ebay stores, Then"Old English Motor Company"  James Dean,
> > Ft.
> > Lauderdale.(ebay name for my auctions-"jaguru"Original Message -----
> > From: "Lance La Certe" <lacpsyd at earthlink.net>
> > To: "Rovernet" <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 10:25 AM
> > Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] A slow death
> >
> >
> >> Hi All!,
> >>
> >> Need help with a perplexing problem.  '70 P6B 3500S.  Recently had
> >> carburetors de-varnished, synchronized, etc.   The mechanic also
rerouted
> >> the fuel line away from the engine block because of concerns with
> >> vaporizing the fuel.  Cobbled back together my old carburetor 'cozies'
to
> >> also help with heat issues-------regardless of all this work, when
stuck
> > in
> >> slow moving traffic and the temperature gauge increases past dead
center
> >> (ever so slightly, and it never gets past the green and into the 'red
> >> zone'), the car begins a slow death relative to a lower and lower idle.
> > If
> >> I have the chance to get on the highway and get some airflow going it
> >> automatically lowers the operating temperature, and then it idles
> >> perfectly.
> >>
> >> In the 15 years I have owned the car, this has never been a problem
until
> >> recently.  I know several Rovenetters have installed electric fans to
> >> help
> >> the radiator, but I'd like to know if there are any other 'fixes' and
any
> >> explanations for what is happening.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for any help.
> >>
> >>
> >> Lance La Certe
> >> lacpsyd at earthlink.net
> >> Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
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