[ROVERNET - UK] New Member - Just Starting Out - Tech Probs f or Registration

Paul Smith Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au
Wed Oct 13 22:42:24 BST 2004

I'm a new member to the group and  recently the new owner of a 1969 2000TC
LHD with approximately 75000 miles.  The car has been checked by one
mechanic familiar with British and one mechnanic/former Rover dealer and
both say it's in exceptional mechanical and physical shape.  Needless to
say, I'm looking forward to having it on the road.

I'm in the process of getting it registered as an antique in Washington, DC
(yes, this city-state has its own licensing department!) but unfortunately
the jurisdiction requires city-administered emissions/brake testing prior to
registration.  Despite the best efforts of my mechanic, I've failed both and
are looking for suggestions:

1- "Acceptable" emissions level is 1250 ppm HC (idle).  The car initially
clocked 2681.41 and after carb adjustment 1293.00.  Mechanic says he thinks
the initial high reading was due to metering rod/valve misfunction (choke
was not adjusting when pushed in after startup).  He showed me how to remove
the air filter and manually push the carb adjusters down to close the choke
after the car warmed up, but that didn't work today -- any thoughts?

69 should have HS8 carbs.  They did revise the needles slightly in 71 (AAB
instead of AAA), but it is likely that the butterfly shafts have worn and
are leaking air - this results in leaning which is fixed by richening, but
with poor mixing; results in Bad HC figures at idle.  I drill the top of the
housings on either side of the butterfly to drop oil in to the brass
bushings, that stops them wearing and plugs slight air leaks.  Try forcing
oil in to the bushes and see how it affects idle; if they are leaking it
will slow down as there will be less air.

2- The rear brakes are also failing me.  After failing the initial test, the
mechanic bled the rear brakes, found a blockage in the right rear line and
cleared it.  Results were nearly the same for the first and second test -
rear balance 128% on left, 65% on right;  and measurment of 485 lbf brake
force on left rear,  248 lbf brake force on right.  Discs aren't rusty,
brakes relatively new.  Previous owner told me that the right rear had
locked unexpectedly at some point, but not sure what they did to correct it
My mechanic says the next step is to replace the rear rubber brake hoses
(maybe someone used wrong brake fluid in the past??).  Any thoughts on this?

How many clicks does the handbrake take to hold the car on a slight slope?
If it is 6 or more, the left caliper is not autoadjusting.  That means the
dreaded caliper removal...
If it is 4, then autoadjusters sound ok, brake hose is a possibility, they
can get pinched if not fitted correctly.  The transfer hose needs to be in
the correct holes on each side, would have to check the book at home to know
for sure but I think it is lower hole on R caliper and upper on L.


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