[ROVERNET - UK] P6B Sticking Handbrake

[Ray Wilkins]

Thank you Roger. Sanity has returned. I was beginning to think I was
back in school in a physics class! Still it may all come in useful
sometime - along with algebra and logarithms. I'll sit back and wait for
the backlash!

Ray Wilkins

-----Original Message-----
From: rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com
[mailto:rovernet-bounces at lyris.ccdata.com] On Behalf Of
rogerdm at iprimus.com.au
Sent: Tuesday, 23 November 2004 2:05 PM
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: RE: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B Sticking Handbrake

hi Ray,

I feel sorry for you in that your rover colleagues have gone off on a
conversation
about thermodynamics and drinking strange fluids and no body has sought
to
fix the problem.  i know nothing of physics or drinking but I have some
thoughts
on your handbrake.  

1) Is the bush that holds the two halves of the actuating mechanism
lubricated
adequately and does it move freely?  Is the return spring broken?

2) Is the inner cable free to slide in the outer cable?  if the grommet
is
shot then dirt may have got in and rusted it up 

3) Are the levers of the actuating mechanism free to move?

4) Are the pads binding?

I recomend you take the mechanism off, by removing the two bolts on the
side
of the diff and the two pins that conect the mechansim to the callipers.
 The cable is long enough for you to bring the mechanism out from under
the
car at the side for conveniant work and inspection.  You will then see
the
small plate that holds the cable into the mechansim, and be able to
change
the rubber grommet.  With the cable disconected you can test for free
movement
of the two halves and the inner cable moving through the outer cable.
With
the mecahnsim off, its good to check the brake hose betwen the two
callipers
as this is often very difficult to visually inspect.  The little felt
washers
can be oiled as you re assemble the unit.  With the rear off the ground
can
you turn the road wheels by hand?  If not then your callipers may be
faulty.

I trust that this helps, let me know if not because I have a spare unit
and
a proper manual.  Incidentally I beleive the essential desgin of the
2000
is the same as the 3500.

cheers roger     
>-- Original Message --
>From: "Ray Wilkins" <rwilkins at connexus.net.au>
>To: <rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com>
>Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:45:48 +1100
>Subject: [ROVERNET - UK] P6B Sticking Handbrake
>Reply-To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
>
>
>After not using my 1976 P6B for some weeks I found that the rear brakes
>were sticking even though the handbrake had been released. I jacked the
>car up and was able to (with the handbrake released) pull the 2
>bellcrank levers?apart with only a little force. Once the handbrake was
>reapplied and then released the same thing happened. I will check it
all
>through and oil the felt washers and other moving parts to increase
>lubrication and also check out the main return spring. The rubber
>grommet that fits on the cable between the 2 bellcrank levers is shot
to
>pieces but I have a spare (on another cable) that is in top condition.
>Does anyone know how I can get it off? The end of the cable is inserted
>into a cross shaped end piece and appears to be crimped in. The ROP
>isn't much help as it doesn't refer to this at all, just shows it in
>diagrams. My questions are this;
>1. Has anyone had experience of a sticking handbrake? Does anyone have
>any tips or tricks to overcome this?
>2. One member of Rovernet did mention that the end of the handbrake
>cable is secured by screws and plates but that may only be the 2000.
>Does anyone have any solutions to replacing this rubber grommet?
>All comments would be greatly appreciated and accepted.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ray Wilkins
>1976 P6B
>Melbourne Australia
>
>
>
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