[ROVERNET - UK] Clutch pedal problems

Paul Smith Paul.Smith at auroraenergy.com.au
Tue Aug 10 00:09:58 BST 2004

It all adds up to master piston not returning correctly.  However that could
also happen if the slave bore has a ridge.  I'd try changing the length of
the slave rod, it has a locknut at the clevis and is threaded in to the
clevis.  Easy adjustment (well as easy as anything on a P6) and it may help.
I'd go 2 turns longer and see if there is any difference in behaviour, then
wind it 4 turns shorter & check.

Was it returning Before the kits were applied?  The washers near the piston
are important.
Were the bores sleeved?  
The bleed is the other trick, the book method doesn't work for peanuts in my
experience - take the slave off the bellhousing (but leave hydraulic line
connected), bring it up past the head, bleed through, then mount slave
again.  Once again not too hard to do, could do it.
Working on P6s without a hoist is great for the abdominals...

BTW update on the SC clutch:
It would drag badly when the car was cold, particularly in cold weather.
Sooo I took to warming up the clutch by engaging whatever gear I could (4th
is usually easy) and slipping it for 20 seconds while the engine was
That worked, and it is steadily improving.


-----Original Message-----
From: Damien [mailto:koffee at iprimus.com.au]
Sent: Monday, 9 August 2004 11:24 pm
To: rovernet at lyris.ccdata.com
Subject: Re: [ROVERNET - UK] Clutch pedal problems

Folks on my new P6B 3500S the clutch pedal doesnt seem to be returning
correctly. The pistons in the master and slave dont seem to be  return
correctly and the travel of the pedal seem to get greater and the clutch
doesnt seem to disengage completely
Any ideas as to what might be wrong? I have put in new slave and master
cylinder kits



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